SYephenTanzer's November/December2007 Issue135 International

the consumer'spassport to fine

Market Monitor appliedby importersand distributors. The result: for every desirablebottle whoseprice seemsabsurd, there Recent and impending developments affecting the are numerousalternatives that are far more reasonable. retail wine market:

Auction prices for wine continue to achieve ever-higher levels, as wealthy new collectors amass In This Issue: instant cellars (ust add cash!), despite the increasing Focuson Baroloand Barbaresco ...... 1 incidence of counterfeit bottles in the marketplace. Now is an opportune moment for veteran wine lovers Peter Moser on Austria 2006 28 to determine which of their bottles have become too California's Central Coast 45 expensive to ehjoy, and take some profits, if only to fund purchasesof new wine. New Releases 65 The Best New from Washington State . . . 69 At the same time, current releases of many high-end rvines from France continue to sell briskly, despite the plunging U.S. dollar, as thb gap between the most-craved items and the rest steadily widens. Expensive wine-oriented restaurantscontinue to soak Focuson Barolo and Barbaresco up supply, while at the same the quantities of wine allocated by producers to their U.S. importers have in My tour oJltaly's beautifuIPiedmont region in some casesshrunk, as other markets have gained in mid-Septembertook place against a baclcdropof dry, buying power. The hard fact is that while Americans warm days and cool niglus-ideal late-summerweather are finding European wines more expensive than ever, for barberaand nebbiolo. Even a brief rainy spell estatesthat make pricey wines in limited quantities during the last week of the month could not prevent yet don't need the U.S. market the way they used to. anotherpotentially outstandingvintage for this region" Incredibly, for the secondtime in a ten-yearspan (200+2007 Even from one excellent producer to another and 1998-2001),the Piedmonthas enjoyed within the same region, retail prices can vary four good to exceptionalvirtages in a row. What a widely. In regions like Burgundy and the Piedmont contrast to earlier decades,when producers of Barolo (see report in this issue), cellar-door prices range more and Barbarescowere laclqt to harvestfuIIy ripe widely than ever, and these differences can be further nebbioloone year out of nuo-and, eventhen, by exaggeratedby the vastly different mark-up formulas picking virtually into November,often in rain orfog.

International is published6 timesper year by Tar:zerBusiness Communications, Inc., P.O. Box 20021, CherokeeSation, New York, NY 1ff)21. Availableonlybymailsubscriptionat$70peryear.Foreignairmailsubscriptionsare$T5forCanadaandMexico;$l20forallorherinternationaladdresses, by checkor moneyorder payablein U.S. dollarstfuough a U.S. bankto TanzerBusiness Communications, Inc. Tororderby credit card, or in the eventof subscriptionproblems, please call f -800-WINE-505. Unless otherwisenoted, all editorial content in the Internationat Wine Celtar is solely the responsibility of StephenD. Tanzer. Copyright 2007 by Tanzer BusinessCommunications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproductionin any form is prohibited by law. The news media and wine producers,distributors and retailersmay use any of the material in this pubtication, provided the International Wine Cellar is credited. .r-: . .7',^ia-/. -., -.: - -;:2.,:-.;;.

compocl tobacco, mocha, underbrush and sweet oilk notes- Silky and fat on entry' flowering is called, is that varieties that normally have then a bit more reticent and backward in the middle palate' offering grape bunches now have more space between the remaining grapes. This means better air circulation, and lhus better resistanceto diseaseandfungus- JuIy brought record high temperalures and wasfollowed by a cool and rainier-than- averageAugust. Septemberand October then witnessedsuperb weather, with ptenry of warm sunshinehelping to dry soils- Cool supported optimal developmentof grape 2003 Barolo Vien€to .Arborina($6a): Good medium red- Very ripe nighttime temperatures highly aromatic arornasof cherry,.dried currant and nutty ; showsa slightly porty aromas, The hamest brought in mostlyfully ripe' aspect. Fat, suppleand sweet,with a lightly salinequality and limited grapes with high levels of potential alcohol. verve. Plenty of stuffing here but a bit warm. Finisheswith big' dusty tannins. 87. 2003 Barolo Castelletto($64): Medium red- Woodsy From the Wachnuto the Weinviertel,summer-Like redcurrant,truffle, menthol and brown spiceson the nose (this Serralunga conditions in Septemberbrought an earlier than was in 2003 than the gives an impressionof more even ripening oiginatly expectedat the end ofAugust. Vintnersbegan Arborina holding in t: Morra). Opulent, large-scaledand deep' with hamestingtheir early-ipening varieties like frfrhroter veltliner lovely richnessto its srrawberryand menthol flavors. Not particularly and rivaner at the end of September. It was quickly established delineatedor high-pitched,but impressivel! densefor the year' Finishes with an excellent balance of with substantialbroad, dusty tannirs. 89. 2003 Barolo Rocche that high physiological ipeness, The dell'Annunziata($86): Good full red. Complex nosemelds briary sugar, acid and aromatic conlent, had beenachieved. raspberry-,red cherry, red licorice, milk chocolate,dried rose and sexy vintage's spare spacing of grapes within the bunchesbrought oa[ spioes. Suaveon entry, then fresh and delineatedin the middle, with completely healthy fruit; but it ako meant drasticllly reduced insidious intensityto the slightly austereflavors of medicinal red fruits' yields, especiallyin grilner veltliner. menthol and flowers. Finisheswith a fine dustingof tanninsand very lift. A concentrated,impressive 2003 that good length and aromatic Optimat October weather allowed for a continuous and needstime in the cellar- 91. Other wines tasted: 2003 Barolo Vigneto efficient harvest- Growers really did not have lime to dawdle, Gattera. (T. Edward Wines Ltd-, New York, NY) becausegrape su1arsrose quickly and very high must weightsof 24" Brix and more were reachedby the middle of Oaober' The The Year of Griiner Veltliner advancementfrom light wines to mediam-bodied single-vineyard Austria '06: to poweful premium wines was Jaster in 20O6thon ever before, by Peter Moser Vintncrs brought in their most valuable fruit for their premium wines at the beginning of November, only six weeksafter the hamest began. The one exception was the few scafiered parcels Austria's 2006 vintagefrequently brought quite powerful where grapes destinedfor remained hanging on the white wines, particularly in Inwer Austia (Niederiisterreich). vines. Thesegrapes were threatened by warm weather in Yieldswere lower than usualfor griiner veltliner but averagefor November and December, and despite the we of protective mony other varieties. This was a growing seasonof extremely netting, it was dfficult to shield thefruit from deer and birds. variable weather, which often made work in the vineyard dfficult' The violent Kyrill windstorm on January I8 and 19 was ultimately Happily, nearly perfect conditions in autumn brought high spirits responsiblefor a tiny hamesl of ice wine' which for some after a summer of toil. In the end, one vintner known for his did not occur unlil January 25th. cautiow skepticismactually described2N6 as "exceptional-" An early look at the wines- Never before have I been The 2N5 red wines ofrer less reasonfor rejoicing. able to taste so nnny concentrated wines of charaaer that were Copious rainfalt and a cool monrh of August hindered ipening of atready approachable the summer after the harvest- The 2006 fruit- Many vintners did not produce their best single-vineyard grfiner veltliners disptaypronouncedfragrances of tobaccoand wines andJlagship blends. For this reQsonI have not addressed herbal spice, as weII as gorgeousfruit notesof apple, melon, the red winesof this vintage in thisyear's coveroge,but will apricot, peach, and soinet[meseven strawberry- Therypical include notes on the best of these wines in next year's report. vaietal peppery elementis also readily'apparent' ahd thesewines arefirmly structured, thanks to ipe, juicy acidity. The 2006 The 2006 growing season. Afier a long winter with gruner veltliners are expressive wines with coruiderable depth- abundant snowfall, a rainy and rather cool sping foUowed- The rieslingsofthis vintage display classic aromasofpeach, Flowering occurred somewhat later than in recent years and was apicot and other stonefruits and possessvibrqnt and welL' accompanied by thunderstorms and vaiable temperatures, which integrated acidity- A fne interptoy of fruil and minerality gives resuhed in poorfruit set and drastically reducedyields for some thesewines eleganceandfinesse- varieties. Particularly afrectedwere Sriiner veltliner in the Wachau, Kremstal, Kampta| and especially in the lileinviertel- The Burgundian whlte varieties require a warm and dry Thepositive side to "shatter," as the loss ofgrapes due to poor autumnmore than any other Srapesin Austria- Withouttotal ipeniss, they would not have achievedsuch,pronounced varietal expression: ethereal arornos, concentratedfruit, power, supple texture and richness of extract. Weissburgunder (pinot blanc), Vienna-basedPeter Moser has been senior editor of Falstaff grauburgunder (pino1 gris), chardonnqy and neuburger were all magazine,Austria's leading consumer wine magazine,since quite successfulin 2006- The vintagealso promises.high-qunliry 1997. Since 1989he has tastedvirtually all of the top Austrian red wines- Incidehtally, reds are playing an increasingly winesannually for his FalstaffWeinsuide. His coverageof important role in Lower Austia, particularly in the wine-grawing Austria has appearedin Issues129 and 123 of the IWC. areas of Camantum and Thermenregion. In vintaye 2006, these

28 Concentrated and rich in texhrre; really coats the mouth yet remaim utterly refreshing, with marvelousfinesse to its citrus flavor. Extremety long finish showsjuicy, sweetpineapple and passionfiuit flavors. This possesses :I:Tplary excellenipotential for aging. Drink from 20.10through ZOZS. (Terry pstate 94- Theisi Selectioni: irnport A Ly Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset,Ny)

Johann Donabaum, Spitz. This five_hecraretamily , situated in the Spitzer Graben-the small gorge cutting towards the.northfrom the Danu\ River valley_works witliviieyu.A, ,"itu"r.o predominantlyon steepslopes and Erraces. The main variety is grfrner vertriner,but the shareof riesling has grown steadily here in recJnt years. The dyrumic young Donabaum is a clrampion-ofthe indigenousneuburger, a variety to haveits origins 11""CT in Spiz. Donabium has also laken on the rask otd,vineyard :J :evrlarrzlng terraies that have lain fallow for decades. r]:rng star gained important ^rlls experienceworking -' for F.X. pichter. 4Q5'JqlannLqrqnqt-yqlrt iqer Federspiel

40 . Franz L€th, Fels am Wagram. 2006 Gruner Veltliner Steirugrund Weinviertel ($16): Paleyellow-green. Freshgreen apple, honeydewmelon and mango on the nose. Light-bodied and racy, yet with a sweet, sdtiny The Weinviertel, texure. Pleasantgreen peppercorn and crisp apple linger on the finish. with its 15,000 hectares, is by a wide A versatile food wine with accurate varietal character. Drink now to margin Austria's largest and most productive wine-growing area, 2014- 89. 2006 Riesline Wagramterrassen($34): pale yellow-green- making up fully one-third of Austria's vineyard acrea1e- Half of Intenseripe peachand apricot aromaslifted by mint and lime peel_ Juicy this area is planted to grfiner veltliner- The establishment of rhe and firm, with brisk acidity giving this riesling a tight touch. White Weinviertel DAC (Disuicrus Austriae Controllazus, similar to currant and apricot linger nicely on the finish of this well-balancedand A-O.C.) as Austria's first appellation has showcasedthe clear, appetizingwine. It's difficult to resisra secondglass of this. Drink 2008 spicy veltliner style of the region: two million bottles are now to 2015. 90- 2006 SauvignonBlanc Brunnthal($25): Medium yellow- marketed annually under this label. Numerous producers here are green. Gooseberry ard lemon zest aromas complicated by intense lichee, worthy of mention, but my report year hay blmsom and vanilla. Elegantlystyled sauvignonwith soft, smoky this focuses on three versatile nuancesardjuicy, ripe fruit- The oak element is perfectly integrated. A wineries. solid acid structuregives finesseto this wine, which offers potentialfor further developmenr- Drink 2008 to 2016. 90. 2006 Crfiner Veltliner Schlossweingut Graf Hardegg, Seefeld-Kadolz. Under director Brunnthal($30): Medium yellow-green. Mango, bananaand aniseon PeterVeyder-Malberg, the assortmentof wines at the Graf Hardegg the nose. Vibrant, concentratd and firmly structured,with apricot and estatehas beenreorganized into an entry level.comprisingthe Gutswein, mineral flavors dominating. This elegantand versatilewine finisheswith the vom Schlossrange, and finally the Reservewines in the Spdtleseand a fingering note of apple. Drink 2008 to 2016. 90. 2006 Griiner Auslesecategories, which are maruredlonger before being released- Veltliner Scheiben($lO; t+*): Medium yellot"-green- Disc.e"t yet Refreshingfruit, rarher than power or alcohol, remaim the focushere, incipiently complex noseoffresh pear, white pepperand blossomhoney. resultingin harmoniouswines that are easyto drink but also capableof At once silky and powerful, with a juicy acid srructuregiving definition aging. The Graf Hardegg winery abstainsfrom the use of cultured to the spicedpear flavor. This veltliner is quite typical for is region, yqNts, enzymes,artificial clarification and must enrichment. Its very alreadyboasting convincing balance and disptayingpronounced limited viognier bottling and fine pinot noir can both standup to mineraliry on the finish. Offers excellentaging potential. Drink 2008 ro internatiorulcomperition. 20O6Gruner Veltliner vom Schtois ($20): 2016. 92. 20O6Roter Veltliner Scheiben(S3O; t4% alcohot): Medium Palegreen-yellow. Subtle yellow apple, discreetvegelal spice and a hint green-yellow. Alluring aromasand flavors of gooseberryjelly, rose hip, of tobaccoon the nose- A refreshingand juicy wine whose vibrant mandarinorange peel and marshmallow,joined by yellow and redcurrant acidity perfectly supportsits medium body. A flavor ofpear persistson in the mouth. Despiteits considerablepower and concenmtion, this wine the finish of this very appetizingand versarilefood wine- Drink 2008 to remainsquite dynamicowing to its vibrant,.citrussy acid strucnrre. The 2016. 90- 2006 Riesline vom Schloss($20): pale green-yellow. finish is elegantand long. Drink 2009 to 2OLB. 92. (DomaineSelect Inviting aromasand flavors of ripe vineyard peach, lime zest and spring Wine Estates,New York, Ny) meadowherbs. A lemony acid structuresupports the wine's juicy peach and citrus fruit and lendselegarrce to this alluring wine- t ong, mineratt! Bernhard Ott, Feuersbiunn. 2006 Grfrner Veltliner Am Bers finish. Drink from 2009 to 2O16. 91. 2005 Viognier ($57): Medium green-yellow. ($16): Pategreen-yellow. Inuiting y.llow apple and Inviting, layered aromasand flavors of acaciablossom, white pepper. Grapefruit and green".o-ffiui.y apple flavors are frarhedand fores honey, ripe yeltow peach,vanilla and spices. A firm spineof enlivenedby vibranfacidity and firm mineral srnjcture: A delicious acidity and solid underlying minerality give this complex, flavorful wine plenty wine. Drink now to 2014. 89- 2006 Riesling von RorenSchotter (gl9): of finesse. Citrus fruit lingers on the finish. Offers excellent potential Palegreen-yellow. Peach, beeswax, acacia and lime zeston the nose. for furrher developmentin the bottle- Becauseviognier is not one of the permitted varietiesfor Qualitdtsweinin Austria, this fine wine has beendectassified as a simple Tafelwein (). Drink 2008 to 2020. 92- 2005 Pinot Noir vom Schloss: pale ruby-garnerwith a dark core and a tawny rim. Stewedplum, sweetberry compote,cinnamon and clove on the nose. Juicy and complex, with flavors of raspberryjam, surprisinglyripe flavors ofsweet mango and peach,and a pteasing lemon, caramel,violet and chocolate- Silkv tannirs and a nicelv balancetretween acidity and residualsweetness. Minerals, savory spices integratedspine of acidiry give the wine uery good strucnrral.uppo.t. and lemon linger on the finish- Offers good potentialfor further Finisheswith lingering notesof chocolateand vioter. Drink 2008 to development. Drink 2008 to2}l4- 89. 2006 Grflner Veltliner Fass4 2013. W- 2003 Merlot Reservevom Schloss: Deep ruby-garnerwith a ($24): Pale green-yellow.enir. fr.r@ dark core and a fading rim. Soft smoky nuancescomplement dried plum, "r,O spice up the fruit aromas of cantaloupeand apricot. Juicy peach is blackberry, cassisand tarragon on the nose- A satin+exnrredmidweight, juicy embeddedin the creamy texture of this elegant but concentratedwine. with dark berry, chocolateand marzipanflavors supportedby firm tannins. This multilayeredwine is versatilewith food. Drink now and through2Oll. 90. 2003 Merlot Forticus (19% alcohol): Brilliant ruby- garnetwith an opaquecore and a pale rim. Intensearomas and flavors of dried prune, blackcurrantliqueur, cinnamon,spice, vanilla and licorice. Downright headyon rhe palate, with fiery bitter cherry, blackberryand plum and gooseberrylinger impressivelyon the afrertaste. Drink now to 20lg- flavors persistingwith power on the finish of this abundantlytannic 92. 2006 Grflner Veltliner RosenbersReserve ($45): Medium green- wine. This fortified merlot, made under the tutelageof Dirk van der yellow. Dark smoky flint and crushedwhite pepperon the nose. Tightly Niepoort, offers a rare and different alternativeto vintageporr. Drink york, wound, with firm acid slructuregiving focus to the discreetpineapple and 2010 to 2025. %. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New Ny) mangoflavors. The finish is long ard minerally. This wine should developslowly and last well in the bottle- Drink 2010 to2}zi- 94. Setzer, Hohenwarth. Hohenwanh lies on the easternslopes of the foothills to Manhartsberg,on the westernborder of the Weinviertel. The sandy loesssoils that predominatehere provide ideal conditionsfor gr0ner veltliner, the winery's most im'portantvariefy. Hans and UIi Setzer,both of whom are enologists;have divided their veltliners into four weight categoriest Vesper is the lightest wine, followed by the Weinvienel DAC Ausstich, then the Weinviertel DAC Die tage from the .8000." Eichholz vineyard, and firnlly the full-bodied Roter Velrliner is

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