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1995 Election Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute Candidates Joe Cerullo 2 President's Message 27 Henry B. Fried 4 Questions & Answers

Fred S. Burckhardt 7 Management Part 12 The Steel Truth

J.M. Huckabee 8 As a Clockmaker Turns 38 A , the Steady Rest, and Repairing a Broken Escape Wheel Pivot

David Christianson 12 The Novice Watchmaker Accutrons-Life The Watch Case After Mercury Marshall F. Richmond 16 Pickle Barrel Course in Jewelry Repair, Part 6 41

Henry B. Fried 24 Repairing Mechanical Watches & Clocks A Complete Series of Bench Practices, Part II Museum Archie B. Perkins 28 Technically Watches Antique Watch Restoration, Part CXII Donations Henry B. Fried 36 Bonniksen's Karrusel Watches 42 Part 3 Fred S. Burckhardt 37 Rock Quarry AWi Building Greg Hostetter 51 Affiliate Chapters Column Chapter Bylaws Project Report 56

HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copy­ righted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincin­ DEPARTMENTS nati, Ohio 45211, for $45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy) in the United States and Ask Huck 6 $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at AWI Material Search Network 40 Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL News of the Trade 44 TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Bulletin Board 46 Education Update 48 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Association News 50 Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. PHONE: (513) 661-3838, Classified Ads 52 AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX: (513) 661-3131. Advertisers' Index 56 *Fellows of the Amerian Watchmakers Institute* Robert F. Bishop *Orville R. Hagans Robert A. Nelson James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman *Hamilton E. Pease George Daniels Haro]d J. Herman Milton C. Stevens Henry B. Fried Gerald G. Jaeger Marvin E. Whitney Josephine F. Hagans *Deceased

Executive and Editorial Otiices President's Message AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 There appears to be much discussion on the subject of profes­ 3700 Harrison Avenue sionals and hobbyists. It has been said that a professional is one who Cincinnati, OH 45211 has been paid for his or her services. Likewise, a hobbyist or ama­ Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131 teur receives no pay. If you are a hobbyist who charges for your AWi Technical Hotline: (513) 661-4636 services, then you become a professional. This may seem very clear on the surface, however, it goes much Milton C. Stevens: Editor Julie Wesling Whaley: Associate Editor deeper than that. In some people's minds, it is a very sensitive sub­ Diane M. DeVillez: Art & Production Director ject. There are those who think a professional is one who has had both formal training and an Donna Baas: Advertising Manager apprenticeship, and practices his or her trade for supporting themselves and their family. These

Sharon McManus: Circulation Manager are people who feel they have dedicated their lives and careers to their trade. Many of these Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager dedicated professionals do not take kindly to professional hobbyists whom they feel under­ Mary Sansalone; Seminar Coordinator charge for their services, thus making life for them unpleasant. I believe this stems from the

Technical Editors dedicated professional feeling that the services he or she provides are complete and to a higher Robert F. Bishop J ..M. Hlickaliee standard than those performed by the hobbyist. This also includes being more accountable for James H. Broughton ohn '.P. Kenyon their services. Fred S. Burckhardt John A agle However, the reality is that there are "dedicated professionals" that I would not allow to David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins Charles Cleves R()Mri. D. Parter wind my watch or clock. Likewise there are professional hobbyists who could remake my Joe Crooks Mar.shall R. Richmond timepiece from scratch if necessary. It is my opinion that the determining factor for the proper Wes Door Marvin· E. Wbitn price charged depends on the amount of overhead for each individual operation. Usually the Henry B. Fried professional hobbyist is not dependent on his or her hobby to make a living. Working from AWI Otiicers their home makes their overhead a fraction of the dedicated professional. Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: President Many people feel that their status in a trade organization should be related to their profes­ M. R. Carpenter, CMC, CMEW: First Vice President Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President sional status. I have heard over the years that the reason the AWI's membership is so much Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary smaller than that of NAWCC is because AWI is a professional organization. The NAWCC is Marvin E. Whitney: CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer a group of hobbyists and collectors. This type of thinking is no further from the truth. In my AWi Directors opinion, the reason for the large difference in membership is attributable to the manner in Robert F. Bishop, CMEW, FAWI which both organizations operate. There are many state and local watchmakers' guilds around James H. Broughton, CMEW, FAWI the country. Presently forty-three of them are affiliated with the AWI; this means they must Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW Wes Door, CMW have at least fifteen members who are also members of AWI. They must submit a copy of their Ronald Iverson, CMC constitution and bylaws to the AWI for approval. Once accepted, they pay an annual fee of $50 Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW. FAWI to AWI. This entitles them to all services and benefits of an affiliate chapter. The majority of John A. Nagle these chapters have monthly meetings in which the main agenda is that of some technical Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Robert D. Porter, CMW seminar or workshop, with maybe a minor emphasis on swapping and selling tools and time­ Marshall F. Richmond, CMW pieces. On the other hand, the NAWCC has over 150 chapters in the US. To join any one of these Greg Hostetter, CC: Affiliate Chapter Director Charles F. McKinney: Research & Education Council chapters, you must first be a member of the national. These local chapters meet every six to Director eight weeks; their main agenda is on swapping and selling of watches, clocks and tools, with a Wes Door, CMW: Immediate Past President minor emphasis on lectures and workshops. It is this agenda that draws the large groups of Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Director professionals, hobbyists and collectors. It is my opinion that both of these organizations are James Lubic: Associate Executive Director necessary and vital to the future of horology. I have been a member of both groups since 1976, David Lafleche: Administrative Director and I believe more and more people realizing the true benefits of both groups. This is why we Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director at AWI have seen such a large number of NAWCC members joining AWI within the last few Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited with­ years. out written permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright © 1995 by the American Watchmakers-Clock­ ON THE FRONT: These tulips-photographed by Jack makers Institute. New Jersey are a sign that spring is here. 2 Horological Times/April 1995

Questions & Answers

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

n the December, 1994 "Question & Answer" column, "Sincerely yours, Fr. John Bernbrock, S.J. I we dealt with two clocks that had the markings shown in Fig­ "P.S. I lived ten years in Korea." ure 1. Since then we have received several responses from our readers that provide interesting additional information. I would appreciate any help you can provide regarding • this particular timepiece. I have enclosed photos (see F es 2 and 3). The movement is a fusee with a verge escapement. There are no markings on the movement itself. The brass figure has a base 5 3/4" long, 2 1/2" wide. The total height is 7", the male is 4 3/4" high. A.G. Perecman, Orange, CT

Figure 1.

Julie Sussman is the wife ofA WI member Gerald Jay Sussman ofArlington, MA; she is also the author of a just-published book, I Can Reo.d That! A Traveler's Introduction to Chinese Charac­ ters. Mrs. Sussman writes, "Your 'Questions andAnswers' in the December Horological Tzmes showed a drawing of 'some kind of markings' that appeared on a clock These are Chinese charac­ ters. The first two mean 'China' or 'Chinese.' I unfortunately cannot translate the rest, since I cannot figure out the third charac­ Figure 2. (above), Figure 3. ter (which may have been copied wrong), and the fourth (which (right) by itself means something like platform, bench, table or desk) goes with the third to form a word." AWI member Genway Gao, Campbell, CA, called to give I have examined your photos of the miniature table his interpretation of the markings as China-Yian tai/new- A • clock 1950--newly made clock case. This appears to be of the 1790-1810 period. The movement From Designer Clocks, Charlotte, NC, we received the fol­ is French and possibly made by Japy Freres, who supplied lowing: ''Ilris is a little note about Mr. Patel's Italian repro quartz ebauches as well as finished movements to many French watch­ clock as mention in Mr. Fried's column on page four of the De­ makers and clockmakers. Some put their names on the product. cember issue. The style of case in a larger size was popular until the turn of 'These markings are on the clock, says Mr. Patel (see Figure this century. However, because none were made to fit a small 1). The first two ('middle' and 'kingdom') mean 'China.' (The movement, and the dial appears to be made for its movements Chinese maps placed their kingdom in the center of the earth! behind it, I would assume that the case is of the same period. You But so did European mapmakers put the Mediterranean Sea in did not supply any signatures on the casting, but nonetheless my the center-Medi= center, terra =of earth.) dating would be the same. 'The last two pictograms are either poorly copied by Mr. We appreciate your enclosure of five dollars. However, for Patel, or obscure signs for the name of the city where the clock or paid-up members, there is no charge for this service. Merely as­ the picture originated. sist with the usually SASE. The only time we make a charge is "Although Su Sung, a Chinese, had invented a clock 500 when someone seeks an appraisal. I do, on occasion, make ap­ years before Jesuit Father Matteo Ricci brought the first clocks praisals for members, provided they tell me they seek an appraisal. from Italy, that fact was officially 'buried' by the next Emperor, I will then contact them and advise the proper donation (based on so we thought for long that Italians brought the first clock to China. the research involved) to make to the AWI E1M Trust Student "Perllaps some enterprising Italian Jesuit is now bringing Fund. Upon receipt of the donation, the appraisal will be made on clocks out of China instead of bringing them in! But isn't every­ my stationery. Do not send checks until you are advised of the thing made in China these days? amount to donate. "Best wishes from this American Jesuit to Mr. Fried! Henry B. Fried 4 Horological Times/April 1995 New "Easy Snap" Case Opener for Snap-Back Watches

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Horological Times/April 1995 5 Ask Huck

Clockmaking Bits About... Eye Loupes and Visual Aids Trade Associations

By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI

Question: Some merits of various forms of optical aids Question: What do you think of trade associations, trade please: what do you think is best for the clockmaker? guilds, etc., that bring businessmen and businesswomen together who may be in competition with each other? Answer: An old craftsman told me as a teenager: "Son, use the device with which you can see best." Good ad­ Answer: We are living in a time when our market has more vice. I've used just about everything you can name over money available than at any point of my lifetime. People the years; most are good, but some are preferable. have more funds available for discretionary use than ever I have been blessed with moderately good to excel­ before. The market for quality service at affordable prices lent vision at various ages. Even at 74, I read without is almost unlimited! glasses, but that does not negate the need for visual aids. I'm a member of the Texas Watchmakers Association, Head visors never seemed friendly, and neither does a and of the Capital Area Guild of the TWA. This group is loupe attached to my glasses frame. I like the most simple made up of several related trades. Most of the people are eye loupe modified by cutting some side windows in it. in "mom and pop" or family owned businesses. We, these My preference for ordinary work is 3" or 4" focus. Spe­ people, need a trade guild most. Of course, it must be edu­ cial-made glasses that focus at about 10" are a real joy to cational in order to have any genuine value. use, but a problem at an arm's length. Our attendance usually runs about twenty to thirty For about two years, my favorite has been different: members at a monthly dinner meeting, usually lasting I've worn only safety glasses for more than forty years. about two-and-a-half to three hours. We have a variety of Wanting some larger, shatter-resistant lenses, I picked up programs, mostly of the informational and educational a pair of reading glasses in the drug store. To my amaze­ type. We freely exchange technical information, trade prob­ ment, they worked great. Vision is approximately equal in lems and practices, materials, tools, and work loads. Each both eyes, and a lens marked plus 1.75 diopters was just meeting is concluded with a "how to do" technical dem­ right! These were plastic lenses, and focused just right for onstration. We have an all-day technical school several comfortable lathe work. There is some optical distortion, times a year: this deals with Quartz technology, lathe prac­ but less than with a normal eye loupe. tices, specialized tools and their use, etc. This is an ideal So what should you use? Look around for the aid with way for a smaller business group to fine-tune its opera­ which you can see best; you are the final judge. tion. Collectively we can solve essentially any business or technical problem. With such a large market, we are not competitors, we are builders! HERMLE - KIENINGER - URGOS Likewise with AWi members: all the resources needed I MOVEMENTS FROM are among us. Let's pool them for everyone of our trade! D ~uttcrtnortb 'lI:locts. 3htc.

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6 Horological Times/April 1995 Management Part 12 Image Building and Public Relations

By Fred S. Burckhardt

hen your name or your store's name is mentioned, build goodwill and favorable opinion for your business. W what type of image is produced in the customer's If the activities of the business are of interest to the mind? Is it one of a store that has a good reputation, in­ public, or a substantial portion of the readers, the local spires confidence, creates a favorable climate of opinion? news media will often grant space at no charge. Don't Do you have the reputation of dealing fairly with your expect to write about how great you are and have them customers, giving good quality for reasonable prices? Do clamoring to print it. The media is only interested in frank, you stand behind your repair work and guarantee it to be objective and unemotional stories about merchandise and of good quality? These are just a few things that cause the businesses. In addition to those listed above, other news­ public to look upon you and your shop in a favorable way. worthy topics would include: Anytime you can get your name in front of the public, • Special exhibits and displays it will help to build your image. Other image-building • Celebrity visits opportunities are: • Contests • Lectures • Expansion or new departments. • Special promotions One jeweler, in a nearby city, presents a fine quality • A fashion show using your jewelry watch to a citizen who performed an exceptional feat. The • An unusual display. local news covers the event, and he receives thousands of Taking part in community activities will help produce dollars' worth of free publicity. He does this on a regular and distribute a good reputation and achieve goodwill from basis. Usually the mayor or some other public official is the effort. present, which adds to the news value. All public relations efforts are aimed at answering the Public relations is something that must be ingrained following questions that exist in most customers' minds: within the organization itself, within each member of the • I don't know who you are. organization, within each function that is performed by • I don't know your company. the organization. It mustn't be something that can be put • I don't know your company's product or service. on and taken off like a coat. Phony public relations will do • I don't know what your company stands for. severe damage to any organization. Once the public sees • I don't know your company's record. your sincerity is of no value, any good relations you may • I don't know your company's reputation. have shared before will be wiped away. Basically, public relations is the business of reporting Public relations is a critical part of an effective, pro­ news about your business as opposed to paid advertising. ductive and successful business. If the public is not aware Its purpose is to bring the name of your business to the of your existence, how will it be possible for you to pro­ attention of the public without specifically pushing any of vide a service to them? Good publicity helps to establish its products. credibility. Credibility establishes trustworthiness and re­ Some larger businesses have employees whose job it liability. It is then that the business will be worth the is to produce information for release to papers, magazines, public's confidence. radio and TV. It is their job to sell, not merchandise or If you are not sure how to get started in your public service, but the business: its employees, what is unique relations quest, call or write AWI Central and request one about the business, and how it places itself among the com­ of their PR Kits. It's free of charge, and it could start you munity. on your way to bigger and better things! Another part of public relations is finding out what D people like about you so you can do more of it. It also is finding out what people dislike about you and do less of it. Participation in community affairs is excellent public relations. In smaller communities, it is an effective way to

Horological Times/April 1995 7 As a Clockmaker Turns

Clockmaki,ng Bits About... A Lathe, the Steady Rest, and Repairing a Broken Escape Wheel Pivot

By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI

his is the third, and last, of a series of articles related Now to support the outboard end of the arbor. In the Tto the use of a lathe steady rest. This series is com­ previous article, a cuff was made from a piece of brass pleted by installing an inserted pivot to replace the broken that was a close overfit to the pinion. It was suggested that original piece. The wheel pivot selected is one that has an a large clock bushing could be bored out for the purpose. adjacent pinion and a small arbor extension. That exten­ I make these from a short piece of brass rod. In either case, sion complicates the work because it has tracks of cutter save the piece and it can be enlarged for use with another run-out from the pinion-making process. pinion. Refer to Figure 2 for the way to use the cuff. A cursory look at the job shows no possible way to In the event the pinion at hand is of the lantern type, support the piece in a steady rest. However, the job is not you can usually support it by one of the shrouds directly feasible without some support in that region. with the steady rest. In that case, I prefer to use the steady This task probably represents one of the most diffi­ rest support rods that have inserts in their tips. cult jobs in repivoting. Once the skill is developed with These can be run at zero clearance with fewer problems this one, other jobs will be easy! than with the metal rods in direct contact with the shroud. Again study Figure 2. The steady rest is moved out­ The Task at Hand ward in order to view the pinion. It is prudent to engage as Study Figure 1 and I'll review some things from the much pinion area as possible because this pinion only has previous two articles. Observe that the arbor is held by a seven leaves, and they have a knife-edge crest. Even so, I soft subcollet that you learned to make earlier. The pur­ am operating in a low-stress mode, and there is not a problem. pose of this subcollet is twofold. First, it is quick and Complete the setup, check alignment and freedom of rotation, simple, and places very little demand on lathe quality and and apply a liberal drop of lubricant. With a proper setup there is no resources. Second, the arbor is inserted about 3mm problem running the job 2,000 to 3,000 RPM for several minutes. deep in the subcollet, places no strain on the pivot, and In fact, after this work is complete and the pinion cleaned, you may gives alignment compliance needed with a steady rest job. not be able to detect how the job was accomplished.

Figure 1. This job must be supported by the pinion. Figure 2. A close-fitted bushing makes a nice bearing run­ ning on the pinion leaves.

8 Horological Times/April 1995 going setup can meet that need easily, which turns the prefinished material into a real advantage. The material I use is spring wire, sometimes called music wire. This can be found in hobby stores in sizes approximately equal to all small sizes. Since pivot holes in the clock plates also approximate drill sizes, the advantage becomes even greater! The pivot in hand is approximately 3/4mm and actu­ ally measured 0.032". A piece of spring wire is available in that diameter. The 1992 price was twenty cents for a 36" piece. This is sold from a tubular package, and is straight. Hardness is almost equal to a typical , but can be straightened without breakage-still another advantage. The material has a good original finish, and needs very little attention. You usually can just wipe with a cloth. This wire is too hard to work with a typical graver, so it will be Figure 3. Grind away the remains of the broken pivot. cut with the same grinder used in Figure 3.

I like to keep the task in a low-stress mode; therefore, Drilling the Arbor use a small motor tool and grind away the bur that remains Drilling the arbor is a very important step in the on the arbor. Use an paper disc in the 400 grit range repivoting process. It is of utmost importance that the hole to face the arbor end, and to touch the shoulder cone. I will is centered, deep and straight. Twist are suitable for use the prefinished pivot material technique, so now is the holes of about 0.025" diameter and larger. However, these time to set the final finish on the arbor shoulder and cone. bits are delicate and must be used with extra care (see Figure 5). The prefinished pivot technique is a great time saver, Begin with an accurately located center starting hole. but has the added requirement that the insertion hole must Figure 4 illustrates how this is achieved with the center be centered on the absolute axis of arbor rotation. The fore- locater tool. Recall that I touched the shoulder cone with

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Horological Times/April 1995 9 the grinder so the center locater will spot a perfect center. This is a low-stress method, but careful use of a pointed graver will give an equal result. Drilling is illustrated in Figure 5. The tool is a hobby knife handle. Use a lightweight drill handle that is round, and hold it very lightly. In the event of a bit hang-up, let the handle spin in your hand until the motor can stop. Sup­ port the bit on your fingertip. This gives the feel of the bit activity. Keep it cutting; don't let the flutes enlarge the hole, and remove the chips often. Also, you should use a flood of light oil. Speed in the 2,000 to 3,000 RPM range is suitable on most jobs, slower if the arbor is hard. Don't let the bit skid on the hole bottom; sharpen as needed. This pivot will be 0.032" prefinished stock. Drill the hole 8 to 10 diameters deep with a bit size of 0.028" or 0.029". Now go back into the hole with a 0.032" bit for Figure 4. Use the center locater tool for your drilling location. about one-third depth. This is subject to bit hang-up, and the lathe spindle should be rotated by hand. A half dozen turns should complete the job. Clean out chips and oil.

Prepare the Pivot Set the pivot stock in the lathe with a 114" overhang. Straighten if required; see Figure 6. Although spring steel wire is hard, it will not break during that step. The piece is ground to a taper; refer to Figure 6. The taper should be about two-thirds of the hole depth, and such that it be­ comes tight in the hole-step before it reaches bottom. A trial fit in the arbor hole should be made. I usually grind the taper longer than desired, and then shorten it to fit be­ fore removal from the collet. Now pull the piece out some­ what and cut it off with the grinder stone-edge. It should be about 112" to 5/8" long at this time. Touch the outside end to the grinder to produce a tip.

Figure 5. Drill the pivot hole 8 to 10 diameters deep. Sup­ Installing the Pivot port the bit on your fingertip. Figure 7 shows one way of supporting the arbor, though it may be held in a lathe collet, smooth-jaw vise, etc. Tap the pivot in place with a steel ; use light but firm strokes. The pivot should now be inspected. It must be tight, and the finished surface must be submerged below the arbor shoulder. That is the purpose of the deep step-drilled hole. Return the piece to the lathe, and straighten if required. A small, smooth-jaw works nicely, and the excess length gives a good visual guide. Now grind away the ex­ cess length and form the tip cone. This works out so easily that it is really an anticlimax to a job feared by many workers! The first time you look at that new pivot running in the setup of Figure 8, you can hardly believe how nice the job is. It can only be detected as an inserted pivot by the most careful critique. This concludes the series on techniques of steady rest use. Figure 6. Grind a slight taper on a piece of prefinished D pivot material. Cut away the piece with the grinder. 10 Horological Times/April 1995 NEW ITEMS! AREAL LIFE SAVER! STAR CAM PULLER This specially designed tool will pull the star cam from the more modem movements without damage to the front plate or the hand shaft Quality constructed with comfortable sure grip handles, this tool is a real asset for any repairman. Comes complete with instructions, and replacement legs. 062036 ...... $85.00 Figure 7. Drive the new pivot in place. Return to the lathe and straighten as required.

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Figure 8. Grind the new pivot to length, and form a coni­ cal tip. ! ~~ca HENRY FRIED'S BUSHING ADJUSTER Finally there is a way to adjust the bushing in minute hands 22ND HOROLOGICAL TOUR without damage to the bushing or your fingers. 7" long with TO SCANDINAVIA a comfortable handle and square tapered shaft, this German made tool is a perfect addition to any repairman's AND THE NETHERLANDS tool box. 061555 ...... •...... $7.95 May 29-June 14, 1995

Members of AWi, NAWCC and AHS invited

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Horological Times/April 1995 11 The Novice Watchmaker The Watch Case

By David Christianson, CMW, FBHI

he actual fitting of stems and crowns has been cov­ 1. cleaning cases and bands, T ered quite adequately in the schools of watch repair­ 2. replacing batteries, ing and in the watch repair texts. The technical details of 3. fitting and adjusting watch bands, cleaning and oiling a watch movement, and the theory of 4. replacing stems and crowns, escapement performance and adjustment, have also been 5. replacing faulty case back gaskets and stem gaskets, and quite competently covered in both text and school. But, 6. replacing crystals, like the fitting of watch bands, the fitting of case back than on movement repair and restoration. This may come gaskets, case tubes and stem and crown gaskets seems to as a shock after all the time you spent learning the fine art have escaped adequate coverage. of watch movement repair, but this is the way it is. As a During the next few months, I'll be addressing these novice, you'll earn more of your keep performing these aspects of the watch repair technician's daily diet of watch "short jobs" than you will the more highly skilled proce­ repair procedures. These procedures are of primary im­ dures of the movement repair. You'll provide more ser­ portance to both the technician and the client. They pro­ vice for your clients by performing these short jobs. Al­ tect the movement from invasion by outside dust and mois­ though the major movement restorations require the more ture-villains to the proper functioning of the watch move­ advanced skills, the short jobs are of more immediate im­ ment. portance to your clients and will take up quite a bit of As the watch repair technician goes through his daily your time. And by learning to do these jobs quickly and routine, he will find that more time is spent on: efficiently, you will endear yourself to your boss.

The Watch Case Usually the crystal bezel is formed as part of the case As we begin our look at the watch case, keep in mind frame with a separate case back; the crystal is attached that I'm going to cover material that isn't generally pre­ either with cement or an inner tension ring (armored type), sented in the texts of in the classroom, yet it is material or it is a press-on type or flexible type crystal. that has great significance in the daily operation of your Sometimes the crystal bezel is used to lock the crystal watch repair practice! in place from the outside of the crystal, and sometimes it The total case, as Drawing A shows, consists of the is simply decorative trim with the crystal attached directly case frame with its case tube (through which the winding/ to the case frame. setting stem protrudes) and its case lugs (to which the watch band is attached). This case frame holds the watch move­ The Case Tube ment, which is protected on the back side with a case back, The case frame generally has a hole through its side and on the top side with a crystal bezel that holds the crys­ for the winding/setting stem. In the case of a water-resistant tal (see also Figure 1). watch, a case tube is pressed into this hole, and provides a As you can see from the drawing, the various case seat upon which an 0-ring gasket can seal this opening components go by a variety of names, all of which are against the entrance of dust and moisture. (See Drawing B.) generally acceptable in the trade. These various case com­ The case tube itself either presses into the case frame ponents are not necessarily separate and distinct parts in opening hole or screws in if the hole is threaded. The press­ the various cases you'll encounter. Sometimes the case in case tubes are available in assortments of various case back and case frame are made as one piece. Sometimes opening diameters, with varying lengths and crown diam­ even the crystal bezel is formed as part of this one-piece case eters. (See Drawing C.) system, with a removable crystal giving access to the move­ The case tube needs to be replaced if a hole has been ment. In this system, the removable crystal is either a flexible worn into the side of the crown shoulder, if the crown type or press-on type, but I'll get to that later on. shoulder has been deformed (even just a little), if the tube 12 Horological Times/April 1995 has broken off, or even if the tube has become loose in the pliers (see Figure 3). case frame, all in order for the case to retain its water If this doesn't work, grasp across the end of the tube, resistancy. crush it with your pliers, twist and pull (see Figure 4 and To remove the old tube, grasp the tube opening with a Drawing D). pair of chain nose pliers, twist and pull (see Figure 2). Or One of those methods will usually extract the tube, force a five-sided cutting broach into the tube, twist to but if all else fails, file the crushed tube opening off so loosen, remove the broach and pull the tube out with the that you can insert a cutting broach, and ream out

cryscal Crown openini;t ___. lens or crown shoulder diameter ( glass

~ back Case openinf' or case shoulder diameter Drawing A. Drawing C.

Figure 2. Removing the case tube with chain nose pliers.

Figure 1. Typical watch case with crystal, bezel, case frame and back.

~~-= Cose frame

mTlCro'm shoulde' L Case shoulder Figure 3. Removing the case tube using a five-sided cut­ Drawing B. ting broach as a key. Horological Times/April 1995 13 the tube interior until the tube weakens and twists out with the cutting broach. The replacement case tube must be a friction fit into the hole opening. You want a tight enough fit that a pair of pliers is needed to press the tube into the hole, but not so tight that the new tube deforms when pressed into place. Prong tightening pliers (see Figure 5) work best because the off-set nature of the prong pliers allows the tube to be easily pressed in straight and true. If you use chain nose pliers, be sure that one of the jaws presses squarely on the end of the tube, with the supporting jaw at an angle on the case frame (see Figure 6). Any deformation, ei­ ther where the tube enters the case frame or around Figure 4. Removing the case tube by crushing the tube the crown end of the tube, will cause the system to with pliers. leak. Some watch repairmen soft solder the tube into place if the replacement is too loose for the hole. But if the fit is so loose that there is enough space for soft solder to flow around the case frame end of the tube, then it would be better to ream the hole out to a larger size that would allow a larger-diameter tube to fit friction tight into the hole. After all, soft solder is rather brittle after it has been applied. If the crown receives a blow (which is quite likely), Drawing D. the solder joint around the case tube will crack, caus­ ing leakage. If the new tube slips into the hole snugly but with little effort, then a touch of Locktite® brand thread locker on the case frame end of the tube will ensure a good seal. Another commonly used case tube is the screw­ down type, in which a crown can be screwed down onto the threaded case tube, sealing under pressure the 0-ring of the crown against the end of the case tube (see Figure 7). You'll find these case tubes with a press-in case shoulder or with a threaded case shoulder. To remove the threaded type, force a cutting broach into the case tube and, using it as a key, un­ Figure 5. Pressing in a new case tube using off-set prong screw the old tube (see Figure 8). To replace, screw tightening pliers. the new crown onto the new case tube, place a touch of Locktite brand thread locker onto the threaded case shoulder end, and screw the replacement sys­ tem into the case frame (see Figure 9). Wait ten min­ utes for the Locktite to set, and then unscrew the crown. 0

Figure 6. Pressing in a new case tube using chain nose pliers. 14 Horological Times/April 1995 BROACH ICIT This assortment contains six popular sizes, number 46 to 72, all with plastic handles. They are five sided and have a regular taper and perfect finish. Made in Germany.

#15.510

Figure 7. Screw-down style of waterproof crown, un­ screwed to show threaded case tube. $10.15

SPRING Bm TOOL To change spring bars, use this tool with tempered tips which are interchangeable with the famous Swiss model, but at a frac­ tion of the cost. The tool features a millimeter scale on the handle.

50 #592.100 - $4. Figure 8. Using a cutting broach as a key to remove dam­ aged screw-in case tube. #592.101 Pointed replacement tip - $ •95 #592.102 Forked replacement tip - $ •95 We Stock Genuine Rolex Parts

Figure 9. Installing replacement screw-in case tube using a crown as a handle. Horological Times/April 1995 15 Pickle Barrel Course in Jewelry Repair, Part 6 Holding, Gripping and Aligning Work

By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

lthough there is a multitude of tools, jigs and devices pleted faster than they could be arranged in a holding tool. Afor holding, gripping and aligning work, there are a Continued use of the hands will develop a greater dexter­ few basic tools necessary to do the simpler jobs, which ity, and also developes eye/hand coordination. include most of the jobs you will have. As this is a basic course, I will stick with the tools really necessary to do Holding basic work: Holding for sawing and filing by hand can be done on • pliers (of which there are at least four different styles) the bench filing block (pin) as shown in Figure 1. Figure • tweezers, both small and heavy-duty locking 1-A shows a bench pin that will fit in a metal holder. 1-B • a small vice that can be attached to a bench, or used is one that is fastened to the edge of the bench, though it unattached will also fit into the rectangular hole in the edge of a regu­ • a small hand vice lar jeweler's bench without the metal holder. These wooden • a ring blocks are not expensive, so they can be easily replaced • a ring when filing, sawing, drilling and generally rough use wear • a steel bench block them out . • a brass hammer When working on this block with anything that can • a chasers hammer be held with one hand, the tools such as the , files, • a rawhide drills or other shaping tools can be held with the other. • a third hand tool, and Smaller articles that cannot be hand held can be held with • a soldering block. holding or gripping devices, such as the pliers (Figure 2- These are the basic tools needed for learning basic jew­ E), ring clamp, or even the ring mandrel (Figure 3-A). elry repair. There are many tools available for holding, The parallel pliers (Figure 2-D) are especially good for gripping and aligning work, and many of them are helpful holding small pieces. in doing repair work. But while learning, most jobs can be If doing rough work, the rough jaw pliers will hold handled with these basic tools. And, using your own inge­ more firmly for filing or sawing. For drilling, the work nuity, you can make devices so that you will be able to do does not have to be held as firmly. For smooth polished most any job you take on. We really come equipped with the best holding and aligning tools-our hands. Since many things cannot be gripped with the hands, however, we sometimes have to use tools, but any job that can be held by hand can be completed much more quickly than with the use of tools for holding. In fact, many jobs held by hand can be com-

Figure 2. (A) hand , (B) bench vice, (C) hand vice, Figure 1. (D) parallel pliers, (E) ring clamp 16 Horological Times/April 1995 A

Figure 3. Figure 4. pieces, the smooth jaw pliers are less apt to mar the finish. dered copper plates to one pair of my parallel pliers so If you only have rough jaw parallel pliers, it is easy to they have permanent copper jaws. make copper covers from a piece of copper plate that is Work must be held firmly for sawing because the thin about 18 or Imm thick. Such copper covers will be jeweler's saw blades are hard and brittle, and if the work even less apt to mar the finish, and will probably hold the shifts while you're making a stroke, the blade usually will work more firmly than the steel smooth jaws. I soft sol- break. When sawing curves or circles, the pliers have to

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._. -.:. - -·- ·-·-- :-: .... -~·-·s··--.... r.':' --; ·;,; - • ·•. ~· - .• ~ ...:$.: .• i:-- ··::; - • ...~ ?=' • ... •. 8 '~ ~Ji;t;r.tifoqt:,t~lf~l!'j ~~;~{eds-e,'"~Q,Y,;~~P2¥iJ ~pfci~nc,y a~d pro,p~'. VfbJq,~ra• Qas 20 years~! e'Ep~rien~e i,n .dftsignlt19 ,. a ,l)ff'rn~raP!~ctuqn~t~1erpw.9J : c~~J(ers w~•ch ~r~ ~now!! for qljahty and dependab1hty worldwide; , -~ [ 6' ~6~eJ~:A~a~~91 @ : ~YfP.y3pg~ 5":1 ~EW~~- WPJ• .-~_10 , V~-2000, WPV-35.0, LC-t we ~8/~ i mo·cfw 14_8,f wilCsq[t yq~t;/ff!ftp//> and .b~_cjget. WhY, ~ettte t;ot le5s than a Vibrograf? i ~~ ~ ... &' .'S ... -. ·-· -- ... . - . ' ' THREE PAYMENT PLAN WITH APPROVED CREDIT - LEASING PLANS AVAILABLE For more information, o~ VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708 Horological Times/April 1995 17 be changed frequently to move the work so sawing can The bench vise (Figure 2-B) is a versatile tool and can continue. Where a hole is drilled, the saw blade is unfas­ be used for many holding jobs for filing, bending right tened in one end of the frame, and inserted through the angles, and even creating "U" shapes for pieces to solder hole in the work. It is then refastened in the saw frame, on pendant pieces or bracelets for catches. For many saw­ and the work can be repositioned without taking the saw ing or filing jobs, it will hold work securely, allowing more blade out of the work. When starting to saw again, the pressure to be put on the saw or files, causing them to cut angle of the blade should be the same as when sawing faster. The particular vise shown can be attached to the ceased for repositioning the work in the pliers. This can bench or held with one hand while work is being per­ be felt by working the saw a few strokes freely without formed. It is also excellent for holding riveted pieces while cutting. Then, when this is accomplished, sawing can con­ punching rivets out to remove them. tinue. This can be accomplished only by practice, and many The small hand vise (Figure 2-C) is also excellent for blades will be broken and replaced. similar uses. It is similar to the bench vise except it usu­ ally is hand held. With the tapered handle, it can be set in Soldering Blocks a vertical hole in the bench top, which frees both hands. Soldering blocks are available in several different The hand chuck (Figure 2-A) is excellent for holding types, and are excellent for setting up work to be soldered. rod or tubing for sawing or filing. It is especially good for There is one type that is round and made with a long strip cut-off sawing because it can be rotated while sawing. This of material that takes the place of asbestos. It is wrapped will cut a good, square end instead of a slightly angled to make a circle, then placed in a shallow metal pan about end. 5" in diameter and 3/4" deep. This makes the complete The ring clamp (Figure 2-E) is a necessary and versa­ pad about 1" thick. When heat is applied with a torch, it tile tool that can be used to hold from either end by simply will not penetrate through this block to the bench top. Thus moving the wedge from one end to the other. The ends when work is set up on this pad, the torch can be turned have inlaid leather for the holding jaws. The leather jaws directly on the work with no danger of damage to the bench. will not mar or scratch polished finishes with one end The top of the pad exposes the edges of the material strips square and the other round. Both shapes have advantages that are wrapped tightly. This allows pins to be pushed in holding objects of different shapes while sawing, filing into the material to hold the work in place while solder­ or drilling. The clamp shown is hardwood with a brass ing. band around the middle, which is hinged and which al­ Ceramic soldering blocks are also great for holding lows the jaws to be opened. And, with a wedge, a piece of work and for extra small pieces to be soldered. There are metal can be held securely enough for most any work need­ no dust particles from the block to get in the way of align­ ing to be done on it. ing. There is also a ring clamp available that's identical to The heavy-duty locking tweezers (Figure 4-E) are the wood one except that it's made of nylon, which is sup­ excellent for holding work on the soldering block while posed to last much longer than the wood. It is twice as soldering. They can be held in place with the metal bench expensive. I have two wooden ones that I have used for block. These blocks can be purchased for about $12; they forty-five years, and they are still okay. With proper care, are made for this purpose as well as for hammering on. A a wooden ring clamp should last a natural lifetime. piece of steel 112" to l" thick can usually be found in a The ring mandrel (Figure 3-A), the rawhide mallet junk yard for a few cents, and it will do as well. (Figure 3-B), and the chasers hammer (Figure 3-C) are a combination that can be used together or separately. For Other Holding Devices holding rings for rounding, straightening or stretching, the The locking tweezers can be used to hold many things mandrel will hold the ring and the rawhide mallet will to be soldered on the soldering block or, if only one hand straighten, round, and even stretch a ring a limited amount is needed, the tweezers can be held in one hand while the by hammering it against the taper. The rawhide mallet will other hand holds the torch. In setting up work for solder­ not mar polished finishes. ing, much ingenuity is needed, and this can be developed When rings have been sized larger and the inserted with practice. piece of metal does not exactly fit, or when an excessive Another holding device that is practically free is a amount of solder has been used in the solder joint when small metal pan, 1" or so deep, filled with moist sand. making a ring smaller, the joint can be hammered to gen­ This will shield the part in the wet sand from heat while eral shape with the chaser hammer. If the ring is intention­ soldering. You can place many items to be soldered in the ally made 114 to 112 size smaller, it can be hammered to sand with the parts to be soldered sticking out above the the identical size desired by putting pressure against the surface of the sand. taper of the mandrel. The ring will be stretched.

18 Horological Times/April 1995 are made smooth, with ring size calibrations that can be bent back to its original shape. Sizing and even to 114 size. They are calibrated with a run­ shanking rings, as well as installing heads in rings, re­ ning the length of the mandrel for rings that may have the quire alignment. Sometimes in assembling two pieces, one culet of a stone protruding into the inside circle of the can be held on the soldering block with tweezers, and the ring. This should always be checked and observed before other held in place by hand while solder is applied. putting a stone ring on a mandrel. An example is when installing a half shank. I usually Figure 4 shows: (A) stone setting pliers, (B) flat nose place the top half of the ring in heavy-duty locking twee­ pliers, (C) chain nose pliers, (D) self-locking heavy-duty zers on the soldering pad with the shank ends up. The pre­ tweezers, (E) slide locking tweezers, (F) small 3-c work pared half shank is held with tweezers. It is fluxed, and tweezers, (G) parallel pliers, and (H) bow closing pliers. solder is applied to one end that is hand held, while the Bow closing pliers are actually made for attaching watch soldered end is held against one side of the fluxed, held bows on pocket watches, but they are valuable to the jew­ shank. With heat applied and the solder flowed, the other elry repairman for bending rings, or making a ring from a end can be aligned with pliers and soldered in. flat strip of metal. In making rings smaller, the circle can To complete the alignment, the ring is placed on the be closed because the gripping leverage gives you com­ ring mandrel and rounded with the rawhide mallet. If plete control of any bend you care to make. slightly small, it can be stretched by hammering the sol­ When closing the circle to make a ring smaller, the der joints with the chasers hammer. Aligning is something ends must be touching each other so the solder will flow that is learned by observation and practice. Aligning is to each side. If there is a gap, the solder will flow to which­ necessary to do satisfactory jewelry repair. ever side gets hotter, and solder can seldom be pulled across There are many types and sizes of holding tools to get a gap by moving the heat. in addition to the basic tools. I would recommend you wait until you know whether you want to continue jewelry work Aligning for your livelihood or as a hobby. Then start obtaining Aligning is an individual operation. Most jewelry jobs tools piece by piece as you need them. require alignment even if they are a bent piece of jewelry The next article will be the ten main steps to soldering. D

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Horological Times/April 1995 19 A Clock Staking Tool

By John Plewes

n the January 1995 issue, J.M. Huckabee addressed in Although mechanical watches are not as numerous as I his "Ask Huck" column the issue of a staking tool for they once were, their repair is still necessary, and staking clockmakers, and described how he solved his need for tools for watches are still available. A staking tool for one. John Plewes, a frequent HT writer from Carp, clocks, which I have often thought would be a useful wid­ Ontario, Canada has used "Aunt Aggie's" old sewing get to have around, never seems to have made the grade. machine to solve his need. If you don't have an Aunt Aggie, A bushing tool seems to be the nearest equivalent, but these keep your eyes open at flea markets; you 're bound to find are expensive, and bushing by hand is simple and easy. something you can adapt, using your ingenuity. It's really Alternatively, a cluster of miscellaneous clock-size a useful item for the clockmaker '.s shop. punches seems to be all that is offered. Even these may contain a few of the abortive hole-closing punches that only vandals would use. Admittedly watch repair involves far more staking type operations than clocks, so the above situation is understandable. For clocks, there is no need of the 100 or more bits and pieces of the watch type rig, which, incidentally always brings to mind a miniature pipe organ in a dinky box. For clocks, perhaps eight or so are enough to get the show on the road; more can be added if and when required. Despite that I bush clock plates by hand, I figured that a staking tool would be useful to drive out worn bushings and to rivet the ends of bushings in awkward places such

Figure 1. Figure 2. 20 Horological Times/April 1995 as the back of a kitchen clock escape cock, etc. Such riv­ Stripping eting ensures that the new bushing will not loosen during After acquisition, the casting should be stripped of all . I therefore find that a selection of hollow its gizmos and removed from its base. The odd protuber­ punches are the most useful stumps to be set up in the ance on top is best left on temporarily as it may serve to . One or two solid stumps are also essential for rivet­ mount a tray, as shown. It may be possible to reuse ing purposes, as the clock plate can be shifted on it while the original casting-to-base bolts, but often they will be a spring loaded striker punch does its stuff under the ham­ too short or poorly positioned. Mine were three in num­ mer. I see no need for a vertical thread drive. ber, and I relocated one and then drilled and tapped two new ones, using a total of four new 5/16-18 bolts l" long. A "Rigidly Suspended" Vertical Striker In general, the original threads and sizes throughout The general concept of staking or bushing tools is to may well be oddballs and are best discarded; however, have some sort of replaceable vertical striker that is rig­ any brass items should be accumulated for sale to a scrap idly suspended over an accurately positioned, versatile metal merchant. After all, we cannot afford to waste the anvil of changeable configuration. Because the "rigidly finite quantities of our planet's metals. Although certain suspended" bit generally involves an iron casting, most original holes may be expected to be centrally placed (e.g. people would probably buy rather than build such a tool, the top bobbin pin), this may not be the case, and it is and such folk undoubtedly keep the economy going essential to set up real centerlines midway between the thereby. Whenever feasible, I have always tried to use a casting's outer limits lest accuracy be lost. different sort of economy- "thou shalt not pay out need­ lessly"-with perhaps some designing and building fun Making the Base thrown in. The results of this approach are shown in Fig­ The first item to make is the base-of 3/8" thick C.R.S. ures 1 and 2. If the tool looks sort of familiar, like, say, (cold rolled steel) 4" wide by 8 3/4" long with a carefully Aunt Aggie's old sewing machine stripped down and sawed scribed lengthwise centerline. Decide on the locations and off, well, that's what it is. As they have been superseded by bolt size for the casting bolts, and drill the base accord­ updated modem versions, such old timers are often pitched ingly. Drill two 1/8" holes between two of these bolt holes out. But, being cast iron, if they are granted a new base, they on the centerline for dowels. solve our "rigidly suspended" parameter admirably.

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Horological Times/April 1995 21 When fitted to the base, close to the rear end, plate. The striker must be normal to the base sur­ the casting is then sawed and filed so that the new face, that is at 90° to it north-south and east-west. cut end is level with the front end of the base and The casting's bolt holes in the base may need eas­ square with its surface. The underside of the casting's ing, and the bearing bracket tweaked a little to ob­ front end will then be roughly 5 1/4" above the base. tain this essential action. Only when this has been The striker(s) run in old 1/4" radio volume control attained should you drill through the 1/8" dowel brass bushings; being threaded these are readily re­ holes into the casting and insert the two dowels, so placed should they wear in many years time. They that this final position is repeatable after disassem­ nut-and-bolt into the l 1/2" bent sections of the bly. 1/16" brass bearing bracket, which is 6" long. Its 3" The anvil is made from 1 1/2" diameter C.R.S. front length is screwed to the free end of the cast­ stock, and is 1 7I16" high. It is positioned by means ing, either directly, if the wall thickness permits of eight equispaced holes, 1/4" in diameter and 1/4" tapped holes, or to a fitted brass insert. This insert deep; the holes being 5/16" up from the bottom of is custom fitted into the casting end and has four the anvil. lugs-at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions-which The 1/4" center hole is a close fit for a 1/4" di­ accept four 4-40 screws, one of which can be seen ameter precision-ground capscrew or similar arbor in Figure 2. Two 8-32 screws bolt the top and bot­ with its end threaded to screw into the base. The tom ends of the bearing bracket to the casting, the capscrew has two beryllium copper spring washers lower screw being via a 1/2" diameter spacer with under its head, which lie in the recess in the anvil's its upper end custom slanted to fit the casting's taper. surface. Using the dimensions given earlier, the an­ The total throat of the casting will be about 5 1/2", vil pivot hole will be located exactly on the and the throat to the centerline of the striker some 4 centerline, about 1 1/2" from the front edge of the 3/4". base. The eight holes in the side of the anvil accept a Making a Striker short, slightly tapered 1/4" diameter stud 7/32" long, A striker should now be made, as shown in Fig­ which is riveted to the center of the spring-loaded ures 1 and 2, from 10" of 1/4" straight drill rod, the bar seen behind the anvil in Figure 2. A lower 3/4" being turned down to 1/8" diameter, and 1/2" diameter steel stud 1/2" long, riveted to a small having a temporary centerpunch point. This end must brass bracket, keeps the indexing bar spring firmly be hardened and tempered to a straw color, as must in position. When closed, the indexing bar lies at 90° all stumps and strikers. As straightness is paramount to the centerline. It is made of C.R.S. and measures in these components, they must be quenched verti­ almost 4" long by 5/8" wide and 1/8" thick. It pi vats cally, every time, to avoid bending. To prevent mush­ via a 1/4" diameter brass bushing that is soldered to rooming and jamming, the struck ends of all strikers its R.H. end, and so is L.H. operated. Positioning and punches must be chamfered and kept that way. the pivot as seen in Figure 1 facilitates operation by To preserve its straightness, do not use the striker minimizing radial shift somewhat. For left-handed itself to torque the two bushings into exact align­ folk, the pivot would simply be swapped over to the ment. Use a separate short piec,,e of 1/4" diameter L.H. side. Whichever side is used, there must be vir­ steel rod instead. The compression spring is a free tually no play in the bar's pivot. fit on the striker(s) and is about 1" long. The collet When the anvil is in position and indexing is sat­ set screw bears on a small flat filed on 3/4" from the isfactory, the striker is now used to firmly top of each striker. centerpunch the top of the anvil for the eight stump The casting itself does not act as striker bear­ holes. These holes pass right through the anvil so ings and is therefore drilled with, say, a 5/16" drill that the punches rest on the base plate. They are for a total clearance. The threaded 1/4" bushings drilled on a drill press, gently, and by increments mentioned are obtained by crushing the bakelite from until the final (minimum) clearance size is obtained. discarded volume and tone controls from old radios This method of drilling minimizes drift. The point or hi-fi's. If these are not obtainable, two 1/2" long on the 10" striker can now be carefully ground flat brass bushings can be soldered in instead. This must for future use, and the length cut to 7". be done with both the brass bracket and a striker in place to obtain a free action and alignment. Typical Punches as Stumps Whichever type of bearing is used, they must The anvil is intended to accept as stumps the allow the striker to fall through them so as to land usual punches used in clock repair. These are simple its point, vertically, dead on the centerline of the base to make from short lengths of drill rod of various

22 Horological Times/April 1995 diameters. A suitable length is 2 1/8" with the hole 1 der the striking point about 5/8" from the front edge 1/2" deep. The five hollow punches shown in the of the base, and the other about 1 1/2" from the rear anvil in Figures 1 and 2 are dimensioned as follows: edge. These bars provide clearance for the bolt heads under the base and a bounce-free support. The total outside diameter 0.188" 0.220 0.250 0.275 0.312 weight is about 12 lbs. It is as advisable to thoroughly clean and sand drill number 33 27 19 14 8 the casting, to saw off and file smooth any unwanted protuberances, and to give it a couple of coats of These typical sizes cover most requirements, and before final assembly. (If you can't bring your­ there are three spare locations in the anvil for future self to do this, I'd have to say you ain' t got no cul­ needs. The tray shown bolted to the top of the cast­ ture.) ing is of 0.062" aluminum, and measures 3 1/4" by 2 Oil the anvil bearing and ensure that there is oil 114" by 1/2"; it will carry ten stumps of various di­ under it so that wear is minimal; the index pivot and ameters laid crosswise. Behind the tray there are the strikers can also use a little oil. Should prolonged three 1/4" clearance holes for housing strikers; only use cause wear, the anvil can always be bushed with one is shown in Figure 2, but there is room for three brass. more holes for a total of six, if required. The grom­ The dimensions of a reader's version will doubt­ met shown in Figure 2 on the striker enables the lat­ less differ slightly from those given, and other uses ter to be raised and kept out of the way as work is and applications will surely come to mind to those fed in under it, a very convenient feature as is the of an inventive nature. Adding adjustable clamps spring-return action. would make it a bushing tool, for example. And as long as it is not used to punch the excitable end out The Finished Tool of a shotgun shell, the above described staking tool­ The tool stands on two 1/2 by 1/2 nylon bars 4" and hopefully, its operator-should last for the bet­ long that are screwed crosswise to the base, one un- ter part of some time. 0

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Horological Times/April 1995 23 Repairing Mechanical Watches & Clocks

A Complete Series of Bench Practices Hairspring Vibrating, Part II

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

o far, the strength of a hairspring has been illustrated. tion might more easily be obtained with the regulator since SHowever, while a spring's strength may be suited for any movement of the regulator would not change the ac­ a balance, its size must permit it to be fitted to the balance tive length of such a spring to any appreciable extent. and the balance bridge. On the other hand, hairsprings of comparatively large New uncolleted and unstudded hairsprings generally diameters have weight of their own and may "sag" in any have about eighteen coils. Hairsprings, factory fitted to position, creating errors. Large springs may also encroach balances and vibrated have an average of twelve to fifteen upon the diameters of other parts and get caught or oiled. coils. The uncolleted spring with its extra coils give it a Oil on one coil would quickly transfer part of this liquid greater latitude of use. To fit certain balances a few coils to a close neighboring coil. Also, some operators find them may have to be removed, and the spring would still have difficult to adjust since they require extra fine handling. close to the average number of coils. Figure 8 shows two hairsprings of equal diameter but with The diameter of the average hairspring already fitted a difference in number of coils. Notice the spacing of the is slightly larger than half the diameter of the balance coils in the two springs. wheel. This means if a hairspring already vibrated was A short hairspring with few coils may be desirable removed from the balance and placed with one of its outer because the coils are not close to one another and thus coils touching the balance staff, the extreme opposite part will not likely become stuck should oil catch one of the of that hairspring would just overlap the edge of the bal­ coils. It also would permit easier manipulation and be less ance. Sometimes, an exception will be noticed in the case susceptible to damage. On the other hand, a short hair­ of a hairspring that exceeds these proportions. A hairspring spring is more violent in its unwinding and winding ac­ that is too large in diameter may not fit the balance bridge. tion. This might create a torque upon the balance staff and This is shown in Figure 7. upset position adjustments as well as make adjustments If the balance bridge is designed for an overcoil hair­ for isochronism difficult. Also any movement of the regu­ spring, a larger spring may be used since it will not be as lator would create a great change in the general length of confined to a limited space. If it could be adapted, it would the spring and close regulation might be difficult. have many advantages. A larger spring with many coils In most cases, a medium is struck between the two extremes would not wind and unwind violently. This would prevent so that most balances have springs whose diameter is slightly balance torque and aid in position timing. Also, regula- more than half the balance and contain about thirteen coils.

Figure 7. A hairspring that is too large in diameter may Figure 8. Two hairsprings of equal diameter but with a not fit the balance bridge. difference in number of coils. 24 Horological Times/April 1995 Selecting a Hairspring The hairspring shoulders of balance staffs do not have a uniform thickness. Therefore, hairspring collet holes are not of uniform size. Because of this great variation in coll et hole sizes, many hairspring assortments do not come with attached collets. The uncolleted spring is shown in Figure 9. Since we know the required diameter and the general number of coils it needs, there still remains the problem of discovering the approximate strength of the spring. We can test this by the method of suspending the balance from it and noting the height of the suspension. To attach these uncolleted springs to the balance for a trial fit, a small bit of soft beeswax about the size of a pinhead is placed at the base of the balance staff. The in­ Figure 9. Many hairspring assortments are made without ner coil of the hairspring is pressed into this temporary the collet attached in view of the wide variation in the size adhesive. This will hold the spring long enough to per­ of collet holes form all preliminary observations. Grasp the hairspring at a point one-half a coil or more shorten the spring so that its diameter becomes much less from the outer end and permit the balance to hang so that than half that of the balance, the spring may be used. the lower pivot barely touches the benchplate. Observe Before colleting the spring, a final check on its size the distance from the point where the spring is grasped by should be made. Tum the balance bridge over on its back the tweezers and to the point where the inner coil is at­ and place the hairspring over it so that it is centered. This 11 tached to the balance. If this distance is more than 1/2 , is shown in Figure 11. Notice the coil that comes closest grasp the spring closer to its center or further from the to the heavily dotted circle in this illustration. If the point outer end, measuring the suspension and continuing to where the hairspring was held last (preliminary vibrating change the grasping point until this distance is just about point as shown in Figure 10) is within this circle, the spring 11 1/2 , as shown in Figure 10. If these manipulations do not may be used. AWi's 35th Anniversary J.

DATES SET FOR HISTORIC AWi MEETING AWI's 35th Anniversary Annual Board Meeting will be held at the Drawbridge Estates from June 22-25, 1995. The preliminary schedule is below. This will be the biggest and most exciting annual meeting ever! Make your plans now to be here.

THURSDAY, JUNE 22 Affiliate Chapter Delegate Reception & Round Table

FRIDAY, JUNE 23 Affiliate Chapter Meeting Riverboat Cruise Luncheon (Spouses' & Families') AWI Headquarters Building Dedication & Grand Opening Celebration Special Guest: George Daniels

SATURDAY, JUNE 24 35th Annual Board of Directors Meeting Shopping Trip to Florence Mall (Spouses' & Families') 35tb Anniversary Dinner & Awards Banquet America's "Real Time" Magician, Bill Maxwell One guest will win a gold "American Horologist" medallion

SUNDAY, JUNE 25 Board of Directors Meeting Concludes Don't let this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity pass you by. Contact A WI Central today to receive your information packet and hotel reservation card.

Horological Times/April 1995 25 Notice that in this illustration, the heavy dotted line just touches the side of the regulator pin closest to the balance hole jewel. This diameter "A" indicates the larg­ est size the hairspring may assume in order for it to fit the bridge properly Figure 12 shows the spring colleted, studded and fitted to the bridge. Diameter "A" is the same as in Fig­ ure 11, where the last coil touched the outside of the regulator pin. However, the last 3/4 coil was bent out­ ward to lie between the inside of the regulator pin and the (opened) regulator key. This last 3/4 coil was re­ Figure I 0. If preliminmy manipulations do not shorten dimneter of curved to assume a circular, rather than a spiral shape. spring to much less than half that ofbalance, the spring may be used. Now the full diameter of the spring becomes "B" in this illustration. In a fitted spring, it is a good rule to provide some space between the outside of the regulator pin and the second coil. Otherwise, the second coil might touch the regulator pin when the spring expands during the un­ winding vibration. In this case, the diameter "A" indi­ cates that the last coil touched the regulator pin prior to being fitted and re-shaped. When the last coil was moved out to lie between the regulator key and pin, the space "D" was created. Instead of having the last two coils separated by space "D," now the spring has space "C." When this spring vibrates, there is the space "D" in which the second coil may move in and out. If it were any closer, it might touch the regulator pin and result in a very fast rate, especially when the mainspring is fully wound and the balance has a full motion. Aside from the second coil touching the regulator pin, consideration must be given to the space between the next to the last coil and the stud. Space "E" pro­ vides some degree of safety at this point. "Flat" hair­ springs, larger in proportion than here illustrated, will be crowded off center (see Figure 7) and prevent any degree of accuracy in timing. 0

Figure 12. Here, spring has been colleted, studded and fitted to the bridge.

11 11 THE KRONOGLASS ...A semi-automatic pantograph mineral watch crystal grinding machine. FEATURES: Four (4) diamond grinding wheels Water pan with pump Pl us all equipment necessary to reproduce at least 60 finished crystals With this machine you can reproduce flat or concave mineral watch crystals with a for watches of any shape. The American Perflt Crystal Corp. is the exclusive distributor for this machine considered the finest of Its kind available. Replacement parts are readily available! Contact your watch material supplier today. - AMERICAN PERFIT CRYSTAL.. CORP. 653 ELEVENTH AVE. NEW YORK, NY 10036 " 26 Horological Times/April 1995 1995 Candidates for AWI Board of Directors ·.

This year there are ten candidates selected by the nomi­ public accountant who is responsible for counting the votes nating committee, from which five directors will be elected and certifying the outcome of the election. to three-year terms. The candidates are shown here. The All ballots returned must be in the ballot return enve­ five who receive the most votes will join the current board lope and postmarked on or before the deadline date that members during the annual Board Meeting, June 24-25, 1995. will appear in the voting instructions. Only marked bal­ During the month of April, the ballots and a back­ lots should be sent to the certified public accountant. Please ground sketch of each candidate will be mailed to all AW! do not include any notes or requests for information. The members eligible to vote. The election mailing will also CPA must hold all ballots received until some time after contain the position of each candidate regarding this state­ July 1. AW! will be unable to answer any messages you ment (candidates will respond in 300 words or less): might enclose until that time. "Service and education are the main thrusts The future of AWI depends on the quality of the people of AW!. As a director, I would propose the the members select to serve as directors. Please take time following recommendation." to study the qualifications and positions of each candidate A ballot return envelope will also be included in the carefully when you receive the election mailing. mailing. The envelope will be addressed to the certified

Robert F. Bishop Charles Cleves Ewell D. Hartman Greg Hostetter Jack Knrdzionak Glenshaw, PA Bellevue, KY Richmond, VA Rochester, MN Stoneham, MA

A. Michael Lizza Stanley McMahan Marshall F. Richmond Chris Wiles James Williams Awendaw, SC Greenville, SC Milan, IN Greensboro, NC Cortez, CO

Horological Times/April 1995 27 Technically Watches Antique Watch Restoration, Part CXII Making Train, Balance and Cap Jewels By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, MBHI ©1995 (All rights reserved by the author)

he synthetic ruby and sapphire used for making watch round rod form. This is shown in View D, Figure 1. In this Tjewels is made by melting alumina in an electric fur­ case, discs are sawed off of the rod to form the jewel blanks. nace. The melting alumina drips down onto a stand and This decreases the number of operations in making a jewel, forms a ball or boule of ruby or sapphire. Figure 1, View since the blank is already round. A shows a drawing of a boule. Grinding the Jewel Blanks Flat Preparing a Boule for Jewels After the jewel blanks have been sawed from the ma­ To prepare the boule for jewels, the boule is first split terial, the blanks are ground flat with parallel surfaces. endwise through its center two halves. This re­ Figure 2 shows this operation being done. View A shows lieves the strain in the material. The half boules are ce­ how the jewel blanks are shellacked to the flat end of a mented to a block of wood to hold them for sawing. Then pivot polisher lap in preparation for grinding the blanks a diamond saw is used to saw the halves into plates as flat. The pivot polisher lap holding the blanks is then placed shown in View B, Figure 1. These slices are made across on the spindle of the pivot polisher as shown in View B, the boule halves, which is with the grain. The boules should Figure 2. The jewel blanks are held against the face of a not be sliced across the grain, as this could cause the jew­ revolving diamond lap as shown. The face of the pivot els to break more easily. polisher lap holding the blanks must be set parallel to the View C, Figure 1 shows how the plates are sawed into surface of the diamond lap prior to shellacking the blanks squares for making jewels. The plates are cemented to a to the surface of the lap. The jewel blanks are held against block of wood to hold them when they are sawed. A better the revolving face of the diamond lap, which is chucked form of ruby and sapphire for making round jewels is in in the lathe spindle. The pivot polisher spindle need not

A B--

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Figure 1. Figure 2. 28 Horological Times/April 1995 revolve, but is motivated with the rocking bar "a,'' which moves the jewel blanks back and forth on the surface of the diamond lap. After the blanks have been ground flat, they are turned over on the end of the pivot polisher lap for grinding the other side of the blank flat and parallel to the first flat surface. The diamond lap should be of a coarseness to al­ low for a fine ground surface on the blanks. The surface of the blank should have a matte finish.

Rounding Up the Edge of the Jewel Blank After the jewel blanks have been ground flat, the edge of the blanks is ground so the blanks are round. To do this operation, the blank is shellacked to the end of a cement brass or a brass rod that is chucked in the lathe. This is Figure 3. shown being done in Figure 3. A female center in the tailstock can be used for centering up the blank while the shellac is in a soft state. The blank is held flat against the cement brass until the shellac cools. Next, the cement brass holding the blank is transferred to a round chuck holding device; then, the chuck holding device is used in a V-block when grinding the edge of the jewel. This is shown in Figure 4. The V-block is mounted on top of the slide rest so the slide rest screw can be used to move the blank closer to the diamond lap as the blank is being ground round.

Spotting the Center in the Blank After the blank has been ground round, the cement brass holding the blank is transferred back to the lathe spindle so a center can be spotted in the blank prior to drilling a hole in the blank. Figure 5 shows the center be­ ing spotted. The center spotting tool is a small diamond that is burnished into the end of a brass rod. The sharp pointed end of the diamond is used for spotting the center in the jewel blank. The tool is held in the lathe tailstock when it is being used. Figure 4.

Drilling the Hole in the Blank Figure 6 shows the hole being drilled in the jewel blank. The diamond drill used to make the hole in the jewel should be turned at high speed. The drilling speeds should be about 10,000 rpm. The drill is turned in one direction I as the jewel blank is turned in the opposite direction. The combined speeds should be approximately 10,000 rpm. -

The drill can be made from music wire. The drill is ~"""' = set into a centered hole in a tapered spindle that fits the ~ - - high speed attachment used for drilling the hole. The high speed attachment that is shown is mounted on a chuck and is used in the chuck holding tailstock spindle. The high speed attachment is driven by a belt from a speed \ pulley on the countershaft over a set of idler pulleys on the idler stand. The drilling process is actually a rough grinding pro­ cess. The end of the drill is usually also ground away dur- Figure 5. Horological Times/April 1995 29 ing the drilling process and must be re-dressed by stoning it flat on the end any time it becomes rounded. The dia­ mond paste used for drilling should be a coarse grit of between 325 and 3,000. During the drilling process, the pressure on the drill should not be enough to cause the drill to be distorted, which would make it wander in the hole. The drill should be withdrawn from the hole often so more diamond paste will be carried into the hole, thus renewing the grinding process. The hole should always be drilled smaller than the finished hole is to be to allow for shaping and finishing the hole to size after it has been drilled. It would be better to drill the hole equally from both sides of the blank to avoid chipping the hole as the Figure 6. drill breaks through. If the hole is drilled from one side only, the pressure on the drill should be lightened as the drill is nearing the back side of the jewel to avoid chip­ ping the hole.

Making the Oil Sink After the hole has been drilled, the oil sink is made. This is shown being done in Figure 7. View A shows how a forming tool is used to shape the end of the rod used as a lap for grinding and polishing the oil sink. The reason for using a forming tool for shaping the end of the rod is so duplicate rods can be made, one for grinding and one for polishing. The forming tool can be held on the T-rest as shown, and when the tool is used, it is swung back and forth as shown by the arrow. This is to make a uniform curve on the end of the rod. The rod can be copper or brass. View B, Figure 7 shows the oil sink being made in the jewel. Prior to grinding and polishing the oil sink, a dia­ B mond tipped tool may be used to roughly turn the shape of the oil sink. This reduces the amount of grinding neces­ sary for making the oil sink. Figure 7. The diamond paste used for grinding the sink should be a grit of about 8,000, and the diamond paste used on the second lap for polishing should be 14,000 grit. When grinding and polishing the oil sink, the back end of the lapping rod is moved in a circular motion. This causes a uniform grinding and polishing of the oil sink surface.

Making the Dome on the Jewel After the oil sink has been made, the dome is made on the same side of the jewel as shown in Figure 8. View A shows the lap being made for making the dome. The rod used for the lap may be copper or brass. Copper is the number one choice for a lap. The end of the rod is shaped with the proper size wheel as shown. By us­ ing a wheel countersink, duplicate laps can be made. A dental drill may be used in place of the wheel countersink for shaping the lap. View B, Figure 8 shows the dome being made on the Figure 8. jewel with the lap. Prior to grinding and polishing the 30 Horological Times/April 1995 dome, a diamond-tipped cutter can be used for roughly the jewel is of the bezel type, the jewel is shellacked to the shaping the dome. The same grit diamond paste may be work plate. The work plate is held true in a hole in the end used as was used for making the oil sink. The back end of of a cement brass while the jewel is being shellacked to this lap is also given a circular motion when grinding and the work plate. The tube on the work plate should have a polishing the dome on the jewel. light friction fit in the hole of the cement brass as well as the ball bearing race. Opening the Hole in the Jewel A copper wire is used as a lap for oliving the jewel After the dome has been made on the jewel, the hole hole. The jewel is turned at high speed as the wire is moved is then opened in the jewel. Figure 9 shows this operation. back and forth in the jewel hole. The diamond paste used A pivot polisher is used for holding and motivating the on the wire should be an 8,000 grit for grinding and 14,000 lap for grinding out and polishing the jewel hole. The pivot grit for polishing. The wire is motivated against the side polisher is a high speed tool because of its small pulley of the jewel hole as shown in View C, Figure 10 as the and the fact that it is driven by a large pulley on the coun­ jewel is being turned at a high speed. tershaft. The lap can be a piece of music wire fitted to a holder that has a taper that fits the hole in the end of the pivot polisher spindle. A separate lap is used for polishing than was used for grinding. Different size laps should be made for different size holes. The pressure of the lap against the side of the hole is controlled by the rocking bar screw "a" of the pivot polisher. When grinding and polishing the hole, the spindle of the pivot polisher is moved back and forth endwise to change the position of the lap in the jewel hole. The spindle should be set in line with the lathe bed in order to make a straight hole in the jewel. The same grits of diamond are used as were used for the oil sink and dome. The spindle of the pivot pol­ isher is turned in the opposite direction to that of the lathe headstock when grinding and polishing the hole in the jewel.

Making an Olive Hole Jewel Balance hole jewels and some trains have an olive hole or crowned hole. The purpose of the olive hole is to re­ duce the surface contact between the side of the hole and the pivot. This condition reduces the oil adhesion between the two surfaces, which reduces the resistance to motion. Figure 10 shows the process of making an olive hole. View A shows a tool set-up for making olive holes. The tool for holding and turning the jewel consists of a housing fas­ tened to a post that fits into a solid hand rest for the lathe. Fitted to the housing is a ball bearing. The sleeve on a pulley is frictioned into the inner race of the bearing. This pulley is driven by a belt from a larger pulley fastened in the lathe headstock. A work holding plate is frictioned into the bearing race on the opposite end to the end holding the pulley. The jewel is fastened to the work plate. View B, Figure 10 shows an exploded view of the tool. Point "a" shows the pulley with its sleeve and Point "b" shows the ball bearing in the housing. The bearing is frictioned into the housing. Point "c" shows the work hold­ ing plate with its frictioning tube. View C, Figure 10 shows the tool being used for mak­ ing the olive hole. If the jewel being worked on is a fric­ tion jewel, the jewel is frictioned into a centered hole in the work plate to hold it while the hole is being olived. If Figure 10. Horological Times/April 1995 31 Grinding the Edge of the Jewel Concentric with Its Hole After the jewel hole has been made and polished, the edge of the jewel is ground to shape and concentric to the finished hole in the jewel. This is shown being done in Fig­ ure 11, View A. The jewel is cemented to a cement brass or brass rod, making sure that the hole in the jewel runs true and that the flat face of the jewel also runs true. Then, a diamond lap is used in the spindle of the pivot polisher to grind the edge of the jewel. The pivot polisher is set so its spindle is at right angles to the lathe bed as shown in View A, Figure 11. The lathe spindle and the pivot polisher spindle should turn A in the same direction so the two surfaces will oppose each other. The edge of the jewel should be given a fine ground finish. The grit size for the lap should be about 8,000.

Polishing Both Flat Sides of the Jewel Next, the flat sides of the jewel are polished as shown in Figure 2. Use 14,000 grit diamond paste on the lap.

Beveling the Corner of the Jewel When the jewel is to be bezeled into the plate or setting, the corner of the jewel should be beveled. This is shown be­ ing done in View B, Figure 11. This bevel is made at a 60° B angle to the flat face of the jewel. First, a diamond tipped cutter is used to shape the bevel, then a lap is used to fine grind the bevel as shown. Number 8,000 grit diamond paste Figure 11. is used on the lap for the fine grinding. The lap is made from a copper or a brass rod by turning a 60° angle in the end of the rod. When using the rod lap, the back end of the rod is moved in a circular motion as the jewel is revolved in the lathe. This type of lap and method can be used to smooth and polish the sharp corner of a jewel on either side of the jewel. Just to polish a corner of a jewel, the diamond tipped graver need not be used as the lap will do the work. When polishing the corner of a jewel, use 14,000 grit diamond paste with the lap.

Removing the Sharp Corner of the Jewel Hole One of the last operations in making a jewel is to remove A the sharp corner at each end of the hole in the jewel. This is shown being done in Figure 12. The lap is made from a piece of copper rod. Brass or soft carbon steel also works well for this lap. A 45° male center is turned on the end of the rod to form the lap. Number 14,000 grit diamond paste is used on the lap. The jewel is turned in the lathe as the lap is used to polish the corner of the hole. The back end of the rod is given a circular motion when the corner of the hole is being pol­ ished. View A, Figure 12 shows the corner of the hole for the flat side of the jewel being polished, and View B shows the corner of the hole on the oil sink side of the jewel being pol­ ished. B Note These instructions are intended to help the watchmaker who has a need to make a few jewels, and not for mass pro- Figure 12. 32 Horological Times/April 1995 duction of jewels (although these methods could possibly be modified for mass production). Also, the same methods shown r-----ROLEi-----, apply to the making of balance hole jewels and cap jewels. "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. D WATCH MATERIAL Bibliography FOR GREAT SERVICE ON ALL Daniels, George. Watchmaking. London: Sotheby's Publica CROWNS, SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC tion, 1985,pp. 177-183. CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. Levin, Louis and Samuel. Practical Bench Work for Horolo­ gists. Los Angeles, CA: Louis Levin and Son, Inc., 1950, pp. 307-333. CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES TOLL FREE: 1-800-942-0047 Saunier, Claudius. The Watchmakers Handbook. London: Crosby Lockwood and Son, 1924 or later editions, pp. FAX: 1-800-423-4256 132-143. "WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL"

Sherwood, N. B. Watch and Chronometer Jeweling. Chicago, IL. George K. Hazlitt and Co., 1887, pp. 5-99.

Seitz, Pierre. "The Manufacture of Watch Stones," The Ameri WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT can Horologist and Jeweler. Denver, CO: Roberts Pub SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY! lishing Co. 7 DAYS A WEEK! February, 1951, pp. 31-36 June, 1951,pp.27-31 February, 1952,pp.29-33 March, 1952, pp. 27-31. '----~:~~~~~~~~----' "LEVIN IS ALIVE!!" FOR ALL YOUR WATCH & CLOCKMAKERS LATHE NEEDS! CALL LOUIS LEVIN & SON, INC. 15120 DESMAN ROAD LA MIRADA, CA 90638 (714) 521-9191 FAX (714) 521-0206 LEVIN;

Horological Times/April 1995 33 Bonniksen's Karrusel Watches

Part3

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

Some Claimed Advantages of Karrusel Vs. Tourbillon or a ratio of one to ten. Also, in a tourbillon, turning at one Aside from the ease of manufacturing the karrusel as revolution every sixty seconds, the effort to overcome the compared to the tourbillon, the karrusel may claim cer­ dead-stop and go every fifth of a second does not com­ tain technical advantages. The most important is the pare to the slow-moving karrusel carriage that turns once method and power required to revolve the escapement in 52 1/2 minutes. These advantages in overcoming iner­ carriage. tia are what led Bonniksen to allow a more rugged system In the tourbillon (as shown in the photo of a tourbil­ that would permit his watches to be used for more rugged lon watch made for James Ward Packard by the English service, especially for the military and/or naval service. company of E. Dent), the third wheel must tum the fourth wheel pinion. With a third wheel, say, of eighty teeth and an eight-toothed fourth wheel pinion, the ratio is ten to one; like hill climbing in high gear on a bicycle. In the karrusel, it is the opposite with the third wheel pinion, say, of eight leaves turning a carriage wheel of eighty teeth,

Tourbillon watch made for James Ward Packard by E. Dent and Company. Figure 7. 34 Horological Times/April 1995 The Karrusel The revolving carriage in the karrusel makes a full tum in 52 1/2 minutes. This is because the carriage is re­ volved by the third wheel pinion. The third pinion, as in normal watches, revolves eight times an hour, or once every 7 1/2 minutes. Since the carriage wheel has seventy teeth, and is turned by the ten leafed third pinion, the carriage makes one full tum every 52 1/2 minutes. However, to determine the number of beats in an hour (17 ,657 .142) is a bit more complex in revolving escapemented watches, and its arithmetics will be discussed later. I have just mentioned that it is the third wheel pinion that is engaged with the gear fixed to the karrusel car­ riage. Yet the watch's center wheel, too, is engaged with the third wheel pinion. This is possible because the center Photo 4. Close-up ofmovement; the balance bridge moves wheel and the karrusel carriage wheel engage different counterclockwise. parts and levels of the third wheel pinion without interfer­ ence from each other. This will be shown in accompany­ ing illustrations. When examining a karrusel for the first time, one is surprised to see the entire escapement, the balance and its balance bridge, escape wheel, pallet bridge and centered fourth wheel. All this without any upper support. The bearing for the revolving platform is a joumal­ bearing system between the movement's main plate and the karrusel carriage. The bottom of the carriage as viewed from the movement side is at the bottom center of the karrusel carriage, and has an extending boss that fits and turns within a corresponding hole-bearing in the mainplate. The carriage's boss is hollow, drilled through to allow the centered fourth wheel pinion and extending (seconds hand) pivot to emerge and where the fourth wheel pinion is en­ gaged by the movement's third wheel. On the top edge of this extending boss are three small, threaded holes. Also, the top of the boss has an extending, Photo 5. The karrusel carriage with balance and bridge, thin collar guide for an unspoked carriage wheel having and the combination pallet and escape bridge removed. the same number of teeth as the movement's fourth wheel. This unspoked wheel also has three holes corresponding to those on the top edge of the carriage boss. When this wheel is secured to the carriage, the third wheel pinion will tum this in the clockwise direction in the dial-up view­ ing. It is this unspoked wheel that also supplies the secu­ rity of the karrusel carriage to the movement and governs the up and down endshake. This is better understood by examining Figure 7, an exploded view of the typical type ofkarrusel carriage. The uppermost part is the balance and bridge. Immediately below and to the left is the combination pallet and escape wheel bridge. Both the lower and upper jewels are capped. The lower pivots of the pallet and escape wheel fit into the jewels (d) and (e). To the right is the bridge (c), which serves as the lower housing for the fourth wheel's upper fourth wheel jewel as well as the lower balance jewels. Photo 6. Balance complete with Breguet hairspring and Note that the jewel for the fourth wheel pivot is re­ floating stud. versed so that its bombe (convex) surface contacts the Horological Times/April 1995 35 upper pivot shoulder for lessening its friction. The bridge -~. (c) appears as though it is lying on its back. It is not. The t:~: · , - ~ balance bridge is actually secured to the bridge ( c) by two steady pins and a screw that fit into the threaded hole in ' ""\ . . ' ... . the bridge (c). :_ . . · ...... · ~ · ~. """'-...... - ...... / ... The fourth wheel (b) is shown as it fits into the car­ ,. riage, and the alternate view below pictures this with its ; ., ... - ~.-.; .. I ,. . I . long pinion and extra-long pivot to accept the seconds 1-. . ' ~~- ~ · . . hand. Notice that, unlike most fourth wheels, the extended \.. .. - .. ·- ~ . ~ · pivot for the seconds hand extends from the pinion side of ,. ,~ i~~r that wheel. It should be noted that, unlike most revolving .. escapements, the balance is not centered on the karrusel carriage; the fourth wheel is. Notice that there are two jew­ els; the centralized bearing is for the upper pivot of the fourth wheel. The one closest to the tip of this bridge is Photo 7. Dial side view. Also, compare with exploded view, for the lower balance pivot and is capped. Again, the bal­ Figure 7. ance bridge fits into the bridge (c). In most ofBonniksen's karrusels made for the admiralty, the regular (bombe) hole jewels are set so that their convex surface faces the shoul­ ders of their pivoted arbors. (See also photos 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9.) The typical karrusel used the English type of ratchet tooth escape wheel and right-angled pallet fork. In some earlier Bonniksen karrusels, the single roller was used. In later models by Smith's and Sons, double-roller tables were included. 0

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36 Horological Times/April 1995 Rock Quarry et tu

By Fred S. Burckhardt

here's a good book out, called Getting It Right the only buy you everything you always wanted), and not hav­ T Second Time, by Michael Gershman. It's a book about ing to deal with irate customers? Mistake? I think not! companies who made mistakes, yet turned them around to I have to admit, there have been some close calls. One make them profitable. time I was going to give it all up and go into the manufac­ It was rather difficult for me to understand at first, as turing end of the business. I could see there would be a I've never made a mistake. Any business can have prob­ great demand for those little rubber 0-rings that fit around lems if a mistake is made. Take my business for instance. the crowns on a lot of the watches. I found out it was hard I only went bankrupt twice this past year. One time it wasn't to convince the trades people that mine would be a little because I made a mistake, it was the bank's fault, as they more costly than those made by machine. Some people wanted their money back on a loan I had taken out. It was just don't understand the value of handmade material. their mistake in granting me the loan. I hope this will ser­ Another time, I designed a stem stretcher to be used vice as a warning to you to be careful with whom you do when a stem breaks off or you cut one too short. Person­ business. The other time was because of a small lack of ally, I think it was a good deal for only $1200, but there memory. A customer left a Rolex President's model with are always those soreheads who think it is cheaper to buy a diamond bezel and dial with me. When he came to pick a new stem. I did sell one, but I had to give the money it up, I couldn't find it. He was telling the truth when he back when the idiot caught his little finger in it. Now his said he was going to put me out of business. After all that finger is six inches long. I tried to tell him it will come in trouble, I finally did come across it when I cleaned off the handy when he tries to scratch his back, but he just bench top. It's surprising what you'll find on there. wouldn't listen. There's an old saying that mistakes are only made by And then, I'll never forget the time when I really came people who do something. Of course, if you don't do any­ close to making a big mistake. I mean we're talking non­ thing, you'll never make a mistake. Off hand, I can think small ! It happened one day when everything seemed to go of a number of people who'll never have to worry about wrong, not that it's so unusual, but this was really bad, making mistakes because they never do anything. even for me. It was then I decided to chuck it all and be­ Oftentimes you may hear someone say, "I wish I would come a writer. I figured a book containing all I knew about have gone into some other business besides fixing watches repairing watches and clocks would become a best seller. and clocks." Let's think bout this for a moment. What else Not only would it be nice, easy work, but I could sit at would you have done if you would have gone into some home all day and not have to worry about irate customers. other kind of business? Frankly, I look forward to work­ After three weeks, I realized things weren't going the way ing more than forty hours a week; dealing with irate cus­ I intended them to go. After all that time, I had three pages tomers; having bruised hands from when clock main­ written, and could think of nothing else to say. springs slip; dealing with irate customers; working long Fortunately, I was able to get back to my old shop and hours at Christmas time so that I'm so tired I can't enjoy my beloved irate customers once again. It was a close call, the holidays; dealing with irate customers; waiting for about as close as I want to get to making a misteak! material to come in, and when it finally does, it's wrong; dealing with irate customers; getting tears in my eyes af­ 0 ter I pay the bills and see what's left; dealing with irate customers; the clerk at the check-out counter making a big scene when I try to buy cigarettes with food stamps; dealing with irate customers-I think you get the idea. Who wants the kind of job where you only work forty or fewer hours a week, make a lot of money (that will

Horological Times/April 1995 37 The Steel Truth

By James E. Williams, CC

ardening steel and polishing are two subjects cov­ Formulas to Case-Harden Steel H ered in many different books. Lively discussions ensue when Before beginning to attempt these methods or use these for­ crafters from our trade get together and express their opinions on mulas, a word of caution-use safety glasses, gloves, and just such factors involved in theharrlening processes as oil and grease plain common sense. viscosity, which oil or grease is best suited for all elements in­ Here's the first formula: Mix 7 parts (by weight) of potas­ volved, the use of alloys, the methods used to harden steel, and sium fen-ocyanide, 1 part potassium bi-chromate, 8 parts com­ the job for which the steel is needed. I personally don't like the mon salt. Pulverize in a mortar and mix thoroughly. Heat the way steel is harrlened in some factories. In some cases, the use of article to be hardened to a dull red and dip into the powder mix­ an alloy such as lead puts concerns, for me anyway, on case hard­ ture. Repeat this process several times, allowing the article to ening a mild steel into a better tempered and stronger mild steel. soak in the mixture. The depth of hardening will depend upon the Remember two things: carbon is a key, and practicing different number of times the process is followed. Finally, heat to a cherry­ methods and formulas to find the right one for you is also impor­ red and quench like you would normally harden steel. tant. This article will give the reader several different methods and formulas to work with. Another Compound Before getting statted, I think it best for me to explain a little Ingredients include 1 part annnonium chloride, 3 parts po­ about iron and steel. Cast iron is the crudest kind of manufactured tassium fen-ocyanide; or 1 part potassium fen-ocyanide, 2 parts iron. It is brittle and will not stand much strain, but will resist bone dus~ and 2 parts annnonium chloride. This compound is crushing force. Sulfur, phosphorus, silicon, manganese, and other used in the same manner as above. impurities vary in the making. Also, cast iron contains about 3 % carbon. Cast iron cannot be forged but is shaped by being poured Proprietary Compounds into molds when melted. The kinds of proprietary compounds found on the market Wrought iron is obtained by stirring and heating cast iron to today are numerous. The one I like to use is called Kasenit; it is a fluidity. Many of the impurities are removed and much of the available from various tool companies. In any case, whatever carbon is bumed. The distinction between cast iron and wrought product you try, the maker's instructions should be followed care­ iron is the carbon content; wrought iron contains less carbon. fully. The way I prefer to case-harden steel is as follows: Frrst get Steel is pure or nearly pure iron, containing from .5% to 2% the article clean, and put some of the Kasenit product in a can or carbon; more than wrought iron but less than cast iron. on top of a piece of asbestos. Then, depending on what metal For more information on heat treating carbon steel, anneal­ you' re working with, do one of the following. ing, hardening, colors, contents, etc., refer to the Question and Answer Book available through the library or AW!. Just a short For Mild Steel comment on the knowledge given on steel in the Q&A book by I. Heat the part uniformly to a bright red(@ 1650°F). Master Jaeger and all the other professionals who contributed to its 2. Now quickly dip or roll the item into the compound to form making-"Job well done. Thank you, my friends!!" a fused shell around the area being hardened. Sometimes the compound will pop; use safety glasses and gloves. Be careful'' Case Hardening 3. Reheat to a bright red and quench in the normal steel-hard­ This is a chemical treatment whereby a thin skin of hard steel ening manner. When I do this, I use water, not oil; and when is given to iron or steel oflow carbon content by absorption under I quench, I swish the item around in a scrubbing action so the heat. The article to be treated is heated and dipped into the com­ item is uniform. To increase depth, repeat operation #2 be­ pound (which is given below). Thus, a quantity of the powder fore quenching. To ensure maximum hardness, reheat and will adhere. The item is then heated to a cherry-red and chilled or repeat operation #3. quenched quickly the same as hardening steel. It then becomes case-hardened steel.

38 Horological Times/April 1995 For Tool Steel clock oil. I use Nye #5. Mix thoroughly and be light on the oiL Heat the item to a light yellow. Deposit it in the compound The process of mixing should continue for quite a while until all and leave it until its correct tempering heat is achieved. Then coarse particles have been crushed. Only a small amount of the plunge it into clean, cold water or oil. I use oil. This method will compound is used on the polishing block I use a droite tool to bring out the utmost hardness and also prevent cracking. polish; a or a boxwood slip will do. If the item can be chucked up in the lathe, I prefer the lathe to run in a clockwise For Deeper Cases on Mild Steel direction, using the diamantine first to get out scratches, Jines, etc. Immerse the item in the compound using an open, shallow Wipe the item clean with a cloth. I do the wiping in between receptacle. I use a small, square copper tub. I have made different polishings and even during polishing. sizes for different sizes of articles. Subject to heat of 1650°F for a Next, I use the opposite side of my droite tool burnisher and peiiod of 15-60 minutes, depending on the depth of case required. make sure it's smooth and free of Jines. If not, clean it up with Use a dry tong to remove the item from the compound. Quench emery paper and a good quality smooth stone. Put a little clock the item in clean, cold water. oil on your tooL Have the lathe running at high speed. When you see a black line starting, it is time to get off Make sure you bur­ Polishing nish the end so no burrs develop. After case-hardening, you need to polish using a buffer with For clicks and items not to go in the lathe, I rub the item in a jeweler's rouge or a lap compound, burnisher, etc. In some cases, circular motion with the mixture starting from the outer edge go­ I use a lap "Silicon Carbide" on a lap stick using the lathe, grade ing inward. I may also use shellac on pith or pegwood, thus shel­ 500 for fitting and polishing and grade 280 for finish lapping. lacking the click or item to be polished to the wood. Sometimes I use a buffer. Most of the time, however, I use a burnisher with the item in the lathe. To Remove Rnst from Steel If this item is an arbor in an exposed movement like a French Brush the parts well with a paste made up as follows: 1/2 oz. crystal regulator or Seth Thomas, after the first polishing I get the cyanide of potassium, 1/2 oz. castile soap, 1 oz. whiting, and item surgically clean; then using Rhodium, I plate it and re burnish sufficient water to make a paste. Wash the steel after brushing in the pivots. I then charge pegwood with .05 Micron Diamond a solution of 112 oz. cyanide of potassium to 2 oz. of water. Fi­ paste. Some of today's pegwood is like using a popsicle stick, so nally wash clean in water and dry in PotassiUIIl cyanide use one if can't find the good pegwood. Clean with a kneaded is poisonous-USE CAUTION!! There are also rust-off prod­ eraser-it's like radico only less expensive and available at craft ucts on the market today that can work quite well if one just stores. Wipe off with a lint-free towel. Now charge another stick follows the directions carefully with .02 micron paste. Roy Hovey teaches polishing at a Project Extend course. There are many books on polishing available Another Method throughAWl There's a video on flat black polishing. Ron Iverson Make a solution of sulfuiic acid in water. IT IS VERY IM­ demonstrates burnishing techniques in his courses. And we do PORTANT THAT THE ACID IS ADDED TO THE WATER, plating polishing and bluing in the clock case repair course. NOT VICE VERSA To prepare the bath, add the sulfuiic acid If the item does not need case-hardening, then perhaps you drop by drop to the water, stirring all the time. Dip the rusted item need to use Staybiite or Keepbiite. These products protect the in the bath and slowly add acid until the solution removes the rust sUiface during heat treating operations anti-scale compound. The cleanly or until all rust is removed. Remove the item and wash in sUiface will be blight, free of scale, and will retain maximum baking soda. Dry and clean with benzene, then dry again with a hardness. rag. Then dry again using sawdust The methods used in polishing depend on the expeiience of Several resources are available to you for extra help con­ the repairer and the tools available to him Polishers are of soft cerning all the above information. J.M. Huckabee has wiitten steel, iron, bell metal, tin, zinc, lead, or boxwood. They must, in articles in the Horological Times that cover polishing; he also has all cases, be formed of softer mateiial than the object being pol­ videotapes that may have information to help you. Another great ished. Example: bell metal brings up a good SUiface on hard steel, help as far as brushing up on your polishing and lathe skills would but is not suited for soft steel. be Roy Hovey at Project Extend. Archie B. Perkins has also wiit­ Polishers for brass are generally of tin or boxwood with wil­ ten articles in HT on polishing; one is in the January, 1993 edi­ low for finish. Polishing steel is usually done with emery, tion, page 15. Practical Watch Repairing by Donald DeCarle, carborundUIIl, oilstone dust, diarnantine used with oil, or Vienna Practical Clock Repairing, and The Watch and Clockmakers lime mixed with spmts of wine. All polishing mateiials must be Handbook by El Biitten are also good resources. protected from dust or they will be spoiled. Olive oil only lasts a As you can see, there are many methods and compounds day or two and then gets g=my. available to you foruse in case-hardening and polishing. You are The preparation of the polishing compound is as important the expert; try them all and decide which works best for you! as securing a nice job free from Jines or scratches. A small amount 0 of #2 or #3 diamantine is made into a thick paste by adding a little

Horological Times/April 1995 39 AWI Material Search ~ Network WE'RE EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the AWI Movement Bank. If you can INTERESTED supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the Material Search Network. Do not send the items. IN YOUR Members requesting these items will be advised of their COLOR SLIDES availability, and will contact you directly. 3Al A. Lange&Sohne (see photo), 23 1/2 ligne, needs a balance wheel or balance wheel and staff. The The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers staff measures .269" Institute knows that there is a wealth of talent in its membership and that this tal­ ent is not only in the field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there.

Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can possibly participate in having your own picture re­ produced on the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Horological Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scen­ ery or nature, and what you submit must 3A6 & Waltham Vanguard, 16's, needs the Reserve be a color slide. Color photos are not ac­ 4A4 Indicator Barrel Arbor, part # 4552 ceptable. 3A7 Movado caliber 221A, needs a Train Bridge, part If your color slide is used, you will receive # 110 an 8 1/2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment. 3A10 Bulova caliber 2423.10, needs a stepping motor, part # 20.510 Mail your color slide with description to: 3A11 Accutron caliber 2192.10, needs a fourth wheel, part# 107 Horological Times P.O. Box 11011, Dept. 31 4A3 Illinois, 18's, 23 jewel Bunn Special, needs a dial Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. with gothic Arabic numbers, double sunk

All slides become the property of the If you can supply any of these items, please contact: American Watchmakers-Clockmakers In­ AWI Material Search Network stitute. AWI Central P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati OH 45211

40 Horological Times/April 1995 Accutrons-Life After Mercury By Robert B. Bradley, CMW, CMBHI Wheels other than the index are observed during Since mercury can no longer be used in power the second step, because it is easier to detect the in­ cells, there will be no more 1.35 volt power sources creased speed of rotation. available. This need not present a dilemma to those Ray has found that any Accutron phased in the watchmakers who choose to continue to repair or manner described will operate with the higher volt­ maintain Accutrons. age cells with absolutely no problem. He emphasizes, There have already been lists published to cross however, that this presumes proper alignment and reference substitute cells that will physically fit and clearances in the index system before phasing, and therefore replace the originally specified cell, but that the rate is checked and regulated afterward. they produce higher voltage. These cells have been The explanation for what occurs at the higher found to work satisfactorily in some, but certainly voltage and why this phasing procedure overcomes not all, Accutrons. the problem has not been addressed in this article. Of those that do not work, different reactions Nor is this a crash course for repairing Accutrons. It have been observed. They may stop, run intermit­ is instead offered as timely information for those tently, hesitate, slightly change rate, or run radically watchmakers who are well versed in the servicing fast. Unfortunately, some watchmakers already may of Accutrons in order that they may continue to pro­ have advised customers that their Accutron can no vide this valuable service. longer be serviced, but this certainly need not be true. The ultimate test for a product or procedure is Those who work on the leading edge of technol­ how well it performs the task for which it is being ogy out in the field are among the best resources for applied. overcoming problems as they are encountered. 0 Ray Vance, CMW, of Lawrence, Indiana, notori­ ous for being on the leading edge, has always used the common-sense approach to selecting his favored technique from all published procedures, integrat­ ing it into his own experiences, and freely sharing it. Ray has been repairing not only Accutrons, but also the Swiss Tuning Fork watches, since their in­ troduction. Many years ago, he adopted the phasing technique prescribed for the Swiss watches, and used it on all tuning fork movements ever since. This procedure differs from that prescribed by Bulova, in that it uses a two-step or two-level method. After phasing at reduced voltage, increase the voltage to just a little above design operating level, and "fine tune" the phasing. Specifically, after servicing the movement ac­ cording to procedures outlined in the Bulova service manual and properly adjusting the pawl and index jewels to the prescribed clearance, connect the move­ ment to a variable power supply and apply 0.9 volt. While watching the index wheel under a microscope, adjust the phasing cam through the run, stop, to run position. Now increase the voltage to 1. 7 volts and again observe the train. If it is stopped, hesitating, or running rapidly, turn the phasing cam in which­ ever direction it takes the least rotation to recover smooth index rotation at its proper rate. This ad­ justment will typically be more delicate than the first step of phasing.

Horological Times/April 1995 41 Museum Donations

These are some of the donations that have been made to the soon-to-be-expanded Orville R. Hagans AWI Charitable Trust Museum since our last report. A pocket watch by John Harrison of Liverpool­ fusee in excellent condition, circa 1830-1845-was donated by JOHN P. (JACK) KENYON of Colum­ bus, Ohio (see Figure 1). In keeping with our focus on American Horol­ ogy, ERIC JOHNSON, LeGrand, California, has do­ nated a pocket watch by the New England Watch Company, the "Senator" model, duplex escapement. A gift from JOHN FLETCHER, Baraboo, Wis­ consin, includes: one Longines-Wittnauer Aircraft Clock, Type A-9 eight-day, and a promotional key chain end piece that was used to introduce the Hamilton 500 Electric watch. The key chain end piece is clear plastic, 1 1114" round. Embedded in the clear plastic, you can see the two contact springs, the coil, the escape wheel and the battery.

Figure 1. Harrison Pocket Watch

The original Merlin Apparatus, the first dry waterproof watch tester as featured in Henry Fried's recent series on "Waterproof & Water-Resistant Watches," was donated by E.J. MULLIGAN, Syracuse, New York. Components of the device are shown in Figures 2 and 3.

~ .

Figure 2. Merlin apparatus Figure 3. Merlin apparatus

42 Horological Times/April 1995 Museum Donations

JAMES N. SKINNER, Heflin, Alabama, donated three aircraft clocks. One is a type A-13' A-1 made by Waltham (shown in Figure 4); another is BU AERO U.S. Navy Civil Date Clock, eight-day, made by Waltham; the third one is an eight-day model, shown in Figure 5 and made by Elgin.

Figure 4. Type A-13-A Waltham Figure 5. 8-D Elgin

LEO A. J AROSLAW, Acton, Massachusetts, has donated an antique Elglish "Turns," which will be a welcome addition to the early tool collection. JOHN CAMMARATA, Marlboro, New Jersey, Clock Tower Needs a Bell has donated a complete Boley High Precision Fl lathe, similar to the one shown in Figure 6. It will The clock tower at AWI's new headquarters is be put to use in the classrooms. rapidly nearing completion. We have a fine old Howard movement to install; however, we are in need of a 10" bell. If anyone has a bell to offer, we would like to hear from you as soon as possible.

Figure 6. Boley High Precision F-1 Lathe All gifts made to the museum are tax deductible. If you have questions about how to proceed with a donation or the long term loan of articles, contact AWI Central. This month we have a special need for shelf clocks of all kinds, especially American made.

Horological Times/April 1995 43 News of the Trade

Arch Crown Inc. Offers New Catalog and Custom Tags loupes, lamps); cleaning equipment (ultrasonic cleaners, and Labels cleaning wipes, dispensers); adhesives; soldering supplies Now you can dress up your merchandise with custom and much more. All products are fully guaranteed, and foil printed tags and labels. Choose from a wide selection orders placed by 4:00 p.m. are shipped by 5:00 p.m. To of styles from the new Arch Crown catalog. Whether your receive your free copy, call (508) 682-2000, or write Con­ logo is simple or detailed, it can be professionally repro­ tact East, 335 St., North Andover MA 01845. duced. Once attached to the fine jewelry and gift items in your store, these eye-catchers are sure to add the personal touch you and your customers are looking for. Featured in Arch Crown's color catalog is a complete line of custom foil printed tags, labels, an expanded line of pre-printed tent and insert/stand tags, custom designed foil printed products, computer tags, and computer label systems for both thermal transfer and dot matrix printers. For free samples and catalog, write or call toll free. Arch Crown Inc., 280 Corporate Center, 3 ADP Blvd., Roseland NJ 07068, (800) 526-8353.

JA International Jewelry Show in Las Vegas Gains Support The Blenheim Group, USA, Inc., producers of the JA International Jewelry Show in New York, recently an­ nounced an agreement to acquire United Jewelers Expo. Beginning in 1996, the show will be called JA Interna­ tional Jewelry Show. Since this announcement was made, the show has gained the exclusive sponsorship and endorsement of the California Jewelers Association (CJA), the largest state New 1995 Catalog: Test Equipment, Tools & Supplies affiliate of Jewelers of America Inc. As part of the agree­ New 144-page full-line catalog offers many new and ment, Blenheim will also acquire CJA's Spring Pacific innovative items for jewelers, watchmakers, and hobby­ Jewelry Show scheduled for March 2-3, 1996 in San Fran­ ists working with detailed jewelry and electronic parts. cisco, and merge it into the 1996 Las Vegas JA event. The Contact East is known for distributing technical electronic J A International Jewelry Show in Las Vegas will take place supplies, but they also carry tools for the jewelry industry, January 9-11, 1996 at the Sands Expo and Convention such as precision hand tools (screwdrivers, pliers, twee­ Center in Las Vegas, Nevada. zers); inspection equipment (magnifiers, microscopes, eye "CIA will actively sponsor and support the JA Inter- 44 Horological Times/April 1995 News of the Trade national Jewelry Show on an exclusive basis, and will 43.7% respectively. The higher the margin, the higher the combine the Spring Pacific Jewelry Show with the Las profitability. Vegas JA Show," said Hugh Caille, executive vice presi­ The 1994 Cost of Doing Business Survey tracks the dent of CJA. ongoing performance of independent jewelers, guild stores The CJA membership is made up of more than 1,600 and jewelry chains. The survey is the most complete, ac­ retailers and also has more than 350 associate members. curate and up-to-date comparative performance informa­ CJA will continue to own and operate its August show, tion available to retail jewelers anywhere. It is a CBS re­ the L.A. Jewelry Show in Los Angeles, and will benefit search project and self-study course, through which mem­ from a joint promotion of all trade shows with Blenheim's ber participants earn twelve Jewelers Continuing Educa­ and JA's assistance. tion credits (JCEs) toward their CBS Accredited Jewelers Designation (AJD). Survey participants also receive free, Independents Show Best Profitability Despite Slower Growth confidential reports comparing their stores to others of their The Center for Business Studies' (CBS) 1994 Cost of sales volume and type. Doing Business Survey reveals many interesting findings All JA members receive a copy of this invaluable sur­ on sales growth and profitability. The survey is compiled vey for free. Non-JA members can obtain a copy of the for CBS by Industry Insights, Inc., Columbus, OH, and is 1994 Cost of Doing Business Survey for $75 by contact­ based on results from 372 jewelry firms. ing JA's Education Department at 1185 Avenue of the The 1994 Cost of Doing Business Survey shows that Americas, 30th Floor, New York NY 10036, (212) 768-8777. jewelers recording the highest sales growth in 1993 were not necessarily the most profitable. New Cannon Pinion Puller This conclusion can be exemplified in many areas Cannon Pinion Puller: within the survey. For instance, while guild stores (7 .5%) • A specially designed tool manufactured to remove and chain stores (6.4%) had better 1993 sales growth than cannon pinion gears completely and safely independents (4. 7% ), these same independents had, by far, • Complete one-piece tool. No additional parts or loose the highest profitability. When comparing their relative pieces are required to operate the puller earnings before interest and taxes to total assets (the best • A quality constructed tool with comfortable sure-grip measure of profitability), independents scored higher handles (8.7%) than both their chain store (5.6%) and guild store • Keyless chuck design securely attaches to shaft for (5.5%) counterparts. non-slip positive positioning Looking at the "Profitability" section of the survey • Unique design will not mar shafts, nor damage threads also shows clearly that the independent jewelers with lower • Puller will not change endshake bushing position volumes were more profitable than their higher volume • Works in restricted spaces and will pull pinion gears counterparts. The jeweler's relative earning before inter­ that have minimum clearances est and taxes (EBIT) to total assets were 9.6% for small • Puller comes complete with easy-to-follow instruc­ jewelers (under $500,000 in volume), 8.7% for mid-size tions, wrench and replacement legs. jewelers ($500,000 - $1 million), and 6.1 % for large jew­ For complete details, contact Richard Jarrett, 425 elers ($1 million or more). Stewart, Apt. 2, Jackson MI 49201, (517) 789-8211. D Another statistic supporting this finding is the Net Profit Before Tax category, in which the smaller jewelers rated the highest at 8.5%, while mid-sized jewelers posted 6.0% and large jewelers came in at 4.2%. Smaller independents also were able to be more prof­ itable, even though they recorded smaller sale increases in 1993. For example, small jewelers grew their sales vol­ ume only 3.2% in 1993, compared with 4.0% for mid­ sized jewelers and 5.2% for large jewelers. So how can a firm achieve higher profitability regard­ less of smaller sales increases? The answer lies in the survey's "Productivity" section. The smaller jewelers were able to maintain a strong gross margin (52.2% ), while their mid-sized and large colleagues clocked in at 49.1 % and Horological Times/April 1995 45 Bulletin Board

A. NEW REQUESTS cally from 1-312. It appears to be primarily stems. The STERO MICROSCOPE-BULOVA SM-1 wooden box holding the three drawers has a red diamond David Grayson, Festus, MO, has a Stern Microscope­ logo on top with the letters L.I.C. in the diamond. I be­ Bulova SM-I for use withAccutron repairs. He seeks any lieve the company name is Larsen, which I saw on a main­ printed instructions available for the proper use of this spring that had the same red diamond packaging. I would equipment, ie: operator or service manual. appreciate it if anyone has the correct legend for the con­ tents of the bottles. LANCEL QUARTZ CLOCK Ermest Lantz, Redwood City, CA, is seeking the US rep­ SHON CLOCK (GERMAN) resentative for Lancel Quartz Clocks. He is especially Mark Davenport, Northridge, CA, writes that he has the interested in the calibre 21903X, which uses a 357 1 1/2 German-made electric clock shown below. I would like to volt cell. know the theory of construction and operation. Some parts are damaged and will need to be replaced. How many volts EXPANSION BAND REPAIRS does it run on, etc. H.M. Bishop, Cairo, GA, recalls that some years ago there AWI records lists a firm identified as Shon Ernest Cre­ was a firm in St. Petersburg, FL that repaired the old-fash­ ations, Div Amer Trade & Pro Corp. Mail has been re­ ioned stretch (scissors) type expansion bands for the trade. turned either marked out of business or no forwarding Can anyone advise who this firm is, and where they are address. located (if still in business)? If not, are there any other firms offering this service?

B. RESPONSES BOLEY Fl HIGH-PRECISION LATHE R. Boedigheimer, Sequim, WA, responded to Wayne Lannon's request for a manual for a Boley Fl High-Preci­ sion lathe. He indicated that he has such a lathe and would be willing to answer any question Wayne Lannon might have. In the meantime, John Cammarata, Marlboro, NJ, has donated a complete Boley Fl lathe to AWi. Fortunately, John also provided a copy of the manual as well. We have forwarded a copy on to Wayne Lannon, along with a copy of Mr. Boedigheimer's letter. As reported in the January 1995 "BB" column, we contacted Citizen Machinery Europe GmbH in Esslingen, Germany-the firm that manufactured this lathe. They reported that they no longer make this product, but a simi­ lar one is being made by Pratecma, D73630 Remshalden, Germany. Fax 7151 74910.

C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED VIBROGRAF RM 90 Gary Crighton, Los Angeles, CA, seeks an operator's PROTECTION FOR REVERSE PAINTING manual for a Vibrograf RM 90 timing machine. If you can John Apicelli Sr. , Groton, TX, has an antique clock with a lend yours to AWi, we will copy it and return your origi­ reverse painting, probably an oil painting. He seeks sug­ nal to you. gestions as to how to stop the paint from flaking off.

SWISS MATERIAL ASSORTMENT (OLD~ GOLDEN HELM CLOCK Robert E. Wagner, Ocoee, FL, writes that he has an older Steve Schwartz, Hollywood, FL, needs a motor for a material assortment (Swiss) that has three drawers, with Jefferson Golden Helm clock. This is not to be confused each drawer containing 104 small vials that run numeri-

46 Horological Times/April 1995 Bulletin Board YOU CAN BE A PART OF HISTORY In conjunction with AWI's 35th Anniversary and with the Golden Hour clock. We have suggested he con­ new headquarters dedication we will be publish­ tact the Jefferson Electric Co. of Elk Grove, IL, the mak­ ing a commemorative booklet. ers of the Golden Hour clock, to see if the Golden Helm is also their product. If anyone can supply details ahout a You can be listed on the patron's page for $10 per replacement motor for this clock, we will pass it on to Mr. listing. One column, one inch display-type listings Schwartz. are available for $25. All persons listed will be en­ titled to a copy of the commemorative booklet. JACQUES MATH BAUERLE CHIME CLOCKS Joseph Strickland, Johns Island, SC, has two chiming Send your listing(s) with the appropriate fee for clocks; one has four tubular chimes, one has two tubular each to: chimes. The movements are marked: Commemorative Booklet Jacques AWi Central Math Bauerle P.O. Box 11011 St. Georgen, Germany Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 He seeks information on setting up the chimes. AWI refer­ ences list a German manufacturer, " Bauerle, Tob, You may use Visa or Mastercard if you prefer. Schaltuhren." It is believed that they manufacture electric time switches and relays. We doubt if this is related to the Please print you copy and include your phone St. Georgen company. number for our records. 0

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Horological Times/April 1995 47 Education Update

By Jim Lubic At the time of this update, there are still a few open­ ings in the Traveling Bench Courses around the country, as well as Project Extend Classes. Remember, if you need financial help with the Project Extend Classes, the ELM Trust has $250 grants available to assist with your expenses once you are in Cincinnati. You can contact AWi Central for the application. If you receive the ELM grant, AWI will waive your tuition fee. Grants are limited, so apply early. As you can see from the photos, Ron DeCorte had a very successful Practice course February 13-17. Everyone enjoyed themselves, worked hard and, above all, learned a great deal.

Upcoming Classes Upcoming classes of Project Extend are: Watch I, The first Machine Shop Practice Class (left to right): Ben taught by past president Alice Carpenter; Watch II, taught Blumenfeld; Ron DeCorte, instructor; David Olekna; Don by yours truly; Clock I, taught by Jim LaChapelle; and Ross; Jack Young; Louis Burwinkel; Greg McCreight; Clock Case Repair, taught by Jim Williams. All four classes Brad Mathews; Mark Baker; Mitch Velkas; and Bert Miller, have been well received in the past. assistant instructor.

David Olekna does precision drilling.

Brad Mathews fashions his work with a hand file. Louis Burwinkel chucks up work in his lathe.

48 Horological Times/April 1995 Education Update

Ms. Carpenter teaches her students the ins and outs of continue to work with the practice pieces provided and the American Pocket Watch. Casing will include adjust­ her own clock, developing her skill and confidence as ing the sleeves and stems. Work on the movement includes she progresses. winding and setting mechanisms, the balance and the es­ • The pace of the course is set by the instructor, but the capement. Students are encouraged to bring one or two student determines how much he can accomplish each watches of their own to work on during her class. day. Students are encouraged to learn the fundamen­ During the Watch II class, I will also go into the es­ tal teaching points set forth by lecture, video and dem­ capement, staffing and timing of the Swiss watches. AWI onstrations. Equipment and materials are provided by will provide the 17 ligne movement that students will work the instructor. Students are encouraged to take unfin­ with during class. Swiss watches are slightly different; the ished work home rather than try to hurry. escapement does not have moveable banking pins, and • Each phase of the building block instruction is de­ the balance wheels are slightly thinner. On the positive signed to add a new skill and provide continued rein­ side, the hairsprings are flat. forcement of those already mastered. Jim LaChapelle will take his students step by step • A considerable effort is made to provide students with through the American style 8-day hour-half-hour strike opportunities to examine and use several types of movement. Each student will be instructed on properly touch-up techniques: French polishing agents, corner setting up the strike train, polishing pivots, bushing and mending techniques, dial touch-up, bezel finishing. adjusting the strip pallet escapement. Students can gain full understanding of the capabili­ So you say you want to refinish that old clock case? ties and limitations of the equipment and materials Jim Williams teaches just the course for you. Let's have used in class before investing their own money. Mr. Williams explain this course to you: • Every effort has been made to provide the student with something worthwhile at the end of each block of in­ Clock Case Repair Restoration struction. The instruction manuals and some of the This course is designed to give the student basic fun­ practice pieces the student makes during this course damentals in case repair and restoration. are theirs to keep.

Objectives Minimal Student Equipment Needed 1. To serve the needs of all clockmakers and woodsmiths • The student will be expected to bring any hand tools holding memberships with the American Watchmak­ they have for working with wooden clock cases, a ers/Clockmakers Institute. number of clean rags, rubber surgeon's type gloves 2. To support members needing the "hands on" skills re­ (three or four pairs). quired in complete case restoration to perhaps museum • Most of the tools and materials for the major student quality. projects have been provided by AWI and the instructor. 3. To provide instruction to all members seeking to de­ • The instructor invites the student to bring a case in velop their skills in case restoration, touch-up tech­ need of restoration or repair to work on during the niques, veneering, inlaying, refinishing, glazing, mak­ course. ing and rebuilding case parts and patterns to their origi­ This course is designed to give the participants practi­ nal luster, or to make the case look antique after com­ cal experience in the repair and restoration of various kinds pletely refinishing. of clock cases and their parts. Students will be introduced 4. Once the member has progressed with his skills and to a variety of products and procedures used to accom­ has the desire to become a master craftsman, this plish a professional repair or restoration job. course is a must. If you would like more information on the above courses, please contact AWI Central. Teaching Concept Since the first group of students in 1991, considerable This Just In successful changes have been made in the teaching con­ Tony Simonin, director ofWOSTEP, will be teaching cept used in the current clock case repair/restoration pro­ the first class in our new building, July 9-13. The class gram. This concept is designed to: will be on "Precision Timing." Students must have three • Provide a learning experience that instills confidence years of full-time watchmaking experience to participate in the student by the use of a progressive building block in the class. Please read this month's envelope for more concept. As the course progresses, each student will details. D

Horological Times/April 1995 49 ARIZONA MINNESOTA The Minnesota Clockmakers Guild's March meeting Southern Arizona was hosted by J&L Industrial Supply, who just opened a The new officers for the SonthemArizona Watchmak­ showroom in Minnesota. They provided dinner and a tour ers, Clockmakers & Jewelers Guild are: of their new facility. President: Malon G. Granica The February meeting was held at St. Paul Technical Vice president: Roy Burkey College. The speaker was Julio Gonzalez from Renewitt Secretary: Sandra M. Exline Technical Services, who gave a presentation on material Treasurer: Nancy Olson for casting machinable wood and metal parts. Board members: The April meeting features a video program: Part II Paul J. Hunt 3 Year (Jan 1998) of Vienna Regulator Restoration. This video covers the Lon Berg 2 Year (Jan 1997) restoration of the case. Dale Thompson 1 Year (Jan 1996) The Educational conference for the Southern Arizona NEW JERSEY Watchmakers, Clockmakers & Jewelers Guild is slated to The February meeting of the Watchmakers Associa­ take place September 16 & 17. The courses have not been tion of New Jersey featured Dan Nied's program on An­ finalized as yet, but a program that will please everyone tique Watch Restoration. Dan, originally a chemist, has will be presented. been practicing his craft as a restorer since 1977. The February meeting included a presentation by Anna John Sokol, editor of the WANJ Newsletter shared the and Mance! Page on gems. They showed slides of the vari­ following tip which should be of interest if you haven't ous gem fields they have visited. The meeting was held at heard of it, or had forgotten it: the Sabbar Shrine Temple on North Tucson Blvd. Dinner If one has to replace a broken staff in a very fine watch was served at 6:30, and the meeting began at 7:30. where extreme caution is necessary, and does not wish to cut the staff out, here is an alternate method. Simply place Arizana Clockmakers and Watchmakers Guild of Central the balance wheel with the hairspring and roller removed Arizona in a glass jar filled with white vinegar. The acid in the As reported in the March issue, Tom Bulfer, acting as vinegar will eat away at the staff without harm to the wheel, president of this guild, is seeking a few good men and which is made of brass. Please note: this procedure can­ women to become active officers and program presenters. not be done if the balance is one that contains steel com­ At a recent guild meeting, it was decided to hold fewer ponents. You may also remove broken screws from bridges meetings-two or three per year-and to make these meet­ and plates in the same manner. Be sure to remove all other ings special. The meeting in April was just that! The Guild steel parts from the plate that you do not wish to be dis­ offered to pay for the meal of any member's significant solved before placing it into the jar. This procedure may other or guest that member could charm into attending. take four to eighteen hours, depending upon the size of The guild reasons that fewer meetings will prevent the part and strength of the vinegar. member "bum out," and it will be less demanding on the officers. Fewer meetings will help to put together more NORTH CAROLINA interesting programs as well. Buddy Carpenter, Technical Director of the North Caro­ lina Watchmakers Association, reports the following program MASSACHUSETTS plans for the NCWA Convention to be held June 2-4 at the By the time this appears in print, April 4 will have Hawthorne Inn, 420 High Street, Winston-Salem, NC. passed. On this date the Massachusetts Watchmakers As­ Dan Fenwick will present an eight-hour seminar on sociation will have joined forces with the Greater Boston the newest Swiss watches on Friday, June 2. On Saturday Watch and Clock Collectors to welcome Henry B. Fried and Sunday, Jim Harding will present a clock program, as their speaker. The MWA newsletter reports great ex­ Joe Cerullo will present a watch program, and Randy pectations for this joint meeting. We are sure Henry Fried Lowery will cover jewelry. Charles Cleves will present a did not disappoint them! program on case repairs, and will present his program The March meeting featured a presentation by Norm "What's Hot and What's Not!" The latter includes valu­ Friedman, who gave an excellent presentation on pocket able information regarding Rolex watches and the ways watch cases. He dealt with antique and collectable watch one can get fooled by fakes. He also discusses other as­ cases. pects of collectible watches. 0

50 Horological Times/April 1995 Affiliate Chapters Column

Chapter Bylaws

By Greg Hostetter

couple of years ago, I had a question about how times, it is sometimes necessary for a chapter to re­ A a particular decision should be made regarding view and update their bylaws. The bylaws themselves our chapter. I asked for advice from several sources, will lay out exactly how this can be done. but received the same answer, "Check your bylaws," In fact, it is a good idea to have a committee re­ I was informed that, one way or another, the answer view the chapter's bylaws every year or so to make would be in our bylaws. Sure enough, I found my sure that 1) the chapter is following their own rules answers. and procedures as written in the bylaws, and 2) the What are our bylaws? I see the bylaws of each rules and procedures are relevant to today. of the chapters as a list of procedures, rules, and One chapter representative told me that their by­ promises made for the membership of the organiza­ laws used to state that every past president became tion. The bylaws may indicate the standing commit­ a member of the board of directors. Makes good tees that aid in doing the work of the association. sense to me to use the knowledge and wisdom these These committees may include a nomination com­ people learned along the way. What's the problem? mittee and a membership committee among others. I was informed that the idea worked well for several The bylaws might also indicate individual posi­ years, but later, there came the problem of getting a tions or appointments, such as parliamentarian, his­ quorum in order to conduct a business meeting. The torian, or librarian. Also, the bylaws will name num­ bylaws were updated and the necessary corrections ber and type of officers, such as president, vice presi­ were made. dent, secretary, and treasurer and what qualifications If you really want to learn a lot about bylaws and and duties are required for people to serve in these find ways to improve your chapter, contact some of positions. the other chapters and exchange copies of your by­ Sometimes the bylaws will indicate the number laws. I was amazed at how many ideas I could pick of regular meetings or events that are to be sched­ up by looking at the bylaws of other chapters. If you uled throughout the year. The bylaws might also note want a source of good ideas for your chapter, look at the date of a chapter's annual convention. I know other bylaws. that the bylaws of one chapter used to state that their For your information, both the AWI and the Af­ convention would always be held in conjunction with filiate Chapters committee have their own bylaws. the state jewelers' convention. Do yourself a favor, contact AW! and ask for a copy If there is a vehicle of communication, such as of each of these by laws. Each will provide you with newsletter or magazine that regularly goes out to some very valuable information. members, this information might be included in the On a different topic, everyone is welcome to at­ bylaws. tend the Affiliate Chapter Reception and Round Table Why do I take this time to spell out what might on Thursday, June 22 and the Affiliate Chapter Meet­ be included in a chapter's bylaws? Simply to let you ing on Friday, June 23. We will be using the Thurs­ know that if you have a question regarding your day night meeting for a little more business this year chapter or how it runs, your answers will probably than we did last year, so that we can wrap up the be found in your bylaws. In fact, it is a good idea for meeting on Friday by 3:00. each of us as members to get a hold of a copy of our We have a very special speaker on schedule for chapter bylaws and reread them at least once a year. the Friday meeting. Make your plans now to attend. These bylaws will give you an idea as to what you 0 should expect as a member. Are the bylaws written in stone? Definitely not! Times change. To stay current with the changing

Horological Times/April 1995 51 Larry Blanchard REGULATIONS AND RATES Service Company FINE WATCH REPAIR Ads are payable in advance $.75 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. • Accutron Tuning Fork Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1/4" wide. Ads are not all calibres, specializing in 218 commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all • Classic American Wrist & Pocket copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $5.00 SERVICE TO THE TRADE additional tor postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. 1545 West Sycamore St. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. June issue closes for copy Kokomo, Indiana 46901 © on May 1st). (317) 868-9161 ,_ .. __ ,_ 0

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131 CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING Fast service -- Write for free Bro­ chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR 986-7698. ROLEX SERVICE Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in REPIVOTING -balance staffs, pinions, arbors 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin­ for wrist and pocket watches. Do not replace ishing & waterproofing of case. All watch parts original parts, let us repivot to manufacturer HAMILTONELECTRICWATCHREPAIR. are genuine Rolex. We specialize in the repair standards.JuliuszDabrowski,J.D. Watchworks Expert, experienced service on all Model 500 of high-grade watches & clocks. Not affiliated Co., 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA and 505 Electric watches. -- Want to buy with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask for Alvin or 94108; Phone: (415) 397-0310, Fax: (415) 397- Hamilton Electric parts. Also unusual Hamilton Marcus, (203) 792·4539. 0601. watches, Hamilton advertising and memorabil­ ia. --Rene Rondeau, P .0. Box391, Corte Madera, CA94976. (415) 924-6534, Fax (415) 924-8423. WATCH REPAIR • Certified Master Watch­ PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS. I have over maker, with 37 years experience is looking for 40 years experience in restoring and making some new accounts. The House of Time, 119 S. parts for platform escapements, staffs, cylin­ DIALREFINISHINGCO.FASTSERVICE, Prospect St., Merrill, WI 54452-2229. Phone ders, repivoting, pinions, hairsprings, and jew­ FINESTQUALITY,quantityworkswelcome. (715) 536-7822. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit els. New platforms fitted. JOHN BARRS, En­ the quartz movement. Send your works to: glish Escapement Maker,3924 S.W. Holden St., Seattle, WA 98136; (206) 935-0596. KIRKDIALOFSEATTLE,4th&PikeBldg., TIMING MACHINES-- NEW AND REFUR­ Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON HOLDEN, Box56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ Call (814)692-2285. ions. Module0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile produc­ ing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104sizes. J..) THE ACCUTRON MAN Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, beat(setoffoursizes). Ratchets 60., and 70., .All hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, A "Cracker Jack" when H cutters made in 8o/o cobalt M42 High Speed Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., comes lo repairing Accutron Watches! Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: Let me "Spaceview It" according to P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological Certified Master Watchmaker Bulova Factory Standards! Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England; Tele­ Jonathan Bowe ;\ot an:uous to spend money ?? ..... then trade phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. swtss Trained· WOSTEP in your model 214 & 218 junker watches for cash credit against your repair bill! REPAIR AND RESTORATION From Antique Verge Fusee to Modem Quartz Vlby not give me a call and .. ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE Case Repair LET'S TALK ACCUTRONS! Overhauled with a SPECIALIZING IN CHRONOGRAPHS George Fruge' three-year (3) warranty on all labor 251 Greenwich Avenue MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC TM Services Greenwich. Ct. 06830 1326 Stanford Street (Time Master) Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 Tel: 203-661-0056 Established in 1982 & AWi Trained 1290 Front St., Suite 125, Binghamton, NY 13901 Fax: 203-661-0703 Please Call (310) 828-6707 For more info telephone 607-775-3302

52 Horological Times!Ap1il 1995 ARE YOU SPENDING TOO MUCH FOR !~~ ,1 MURPHY'S CRYSTALS?? We will make any flat mineral or heavy plastic crystal. One-day turnaround. r-S-end-$3-.00-for-ou-rne"""'w 1 !11"T // CRYSTAL SERVICE Call or write for price list. D & H Crystal Co., clock supply catalog! ;,.;=- J::JJ. :~,\ .; jif Timesavers : _. '~ i 1:1 FAST -- QUALITY WORK 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; phnnelfax (910) 889-0148. Box 12700 ~-''"-' 'i!i " 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. Scottsdale, AZ 85267 ~~:-;. :\·,,,,. o ; r1· so2-4a3-s111 I _·" -- ' ..:--:-.-2::- - u * Complete crystal fitting service ~------'"-"'·~~~ IN for new and old wrist and pocket CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, watches. rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraftclocks, USED WATCH MOVEMENTS. H. HERB & CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, SON, 908 RIVA RIDGE DR., GREAT FALLS, FAX or PHONE (209) 576-8865 N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho VA22066; (703) 549-8045. 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. MODESTO, CA 95355 MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar­ QUARTZ CONVERSIONS antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. ATMOS CLOCK REPAIR WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. Write or call for details. A Time to Remember, NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? HALLCLOCKSHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Char­ 145 E. Gould St., Nashville, IN 47448; (812)988- SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA lntte, NC 28205. 8463 or (800) 267-7756. FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. WATCH BATTERIES 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. Sony- Maxell, from 25¢ each. For price list call CLOCKandMUSIC BOXparts, mainsprings, SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. Jose (619) 662-2358. material and tools. Custom made to order or ZAMORA repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog 280 PRESIDIO PLACE NEW FLOOR CLOCKS $3.00. TANIENGINEERING,Box338,Atwater, BUFFALO, NY 14221-3746 Howard Miller and Ridgeway floor clocks, from OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. (716)633-6138 50-63% off. Howard Miller wall clocks, up to Fax (716) 633-7686 53% off. Mel Taylor, A Time to Remember, P. 0. Box 1007, Nashville, IN 4 7 448.1-800-267-7756 SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS OVER­ or(812) 988-8463. HAULED. Also keys, box hardware, etc. I buy chronometers and partial movements. 1 year guarantee on repairs. DEWEY CLARK, CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD (410) 592-3617. CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Save time, money, and work re-covering WATCHREPAIRFOR TRADE. Large or small bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor­ mation, send business-size SASE to: accounts. All types ofwatches. 25 years experi­ Ultrasonic three gallon tank. Solid state. ence. Casciato Watch Repair, 62 Coraopolis JANDi GOGGIN $250.00 plus shipping.Ken W aldhorn, (810) Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 Rd., Coraopolis, PA 15108. Phone (412) 922- 399-3067. 4397 or(412) 331-7684.

THE MORTICIAN NO COMEBACKS Ro lex Certified Master Watchmaker and Atmos Clock Service (factory recommended for over 50 years). Watch wheel repivoting, quartz con­ COMPLETE CRYSTAL MAKING SYSTEM versions. Servicing all makes, antiques, high grade, etc. 2-yearwarranty. J. Small, CMW & WE'RE OFFERING A "COMBO" SPECIAL! Associates; (713) 561-5147. Both Machines CLOCK REPAIR Quality repair or restoration of mechanical CUTTER& clocks. Fast, friendly service. All work guaran­ GRINDER teed. Call or send SASE for free price list, (904) 386-5498. Fax available. Jeff Hamilton, 2656 Plus 100 FREE Byron Circle, Tallahassee, FL 32308. Crystal Blanks Shipping Free ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE We are Factory Authorized Service for: $995.00 • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate WE ALSO SELL CRYSTAL BLANKS! recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. THICKNESSES: 1.3 mm 1 mm .09 mm .08 mm .07 mm 50¢ ea. JACK PHILLIPS ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE VISA & MASTERCARD ACCEPTED 757 Lincnln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 For Information Call (415)453-9266 P.O. Box 406 208 Barber Street Spring fake, Ml 49456 Phone (&16) 842-6025 Fax (616) 842'2;l9S · , Horological Times/April 1995 53 Miscellaneous types ofmechanic al aircraft WATCHMAKER clocks, including replacement parts with We are seeking an experienced watchmaker 11 ARTIGLES FOR SALE Ii repair service available. W.M.R., 66 interested in working for a start up watch Marlborough Rd., Shalimar, FL32579; (904) repair center. Must be familiar with quartz 651-0942. watches. Person will be responsible for repair­ ing watches in our Shelton Repair Center. The CASIO WATCH PARTS ideal candidate will have attended school for No Minimum Order Required Swiss maker of all kinds of cutters, Guye SA watchmaking plus have applicable job experi­ Fleurier catalog on request. For more informa­ ence. We offer a competitive salary plus an Kaben Enterprises tion write or call: Jean Fischer, 3920 Green excellent benefit package. Please send resume 3529 Chamblee Tucker Road Point Ave., Sunnyside, L.I.C., NY 11104; (718) and salary in confidence to: Atlanta, GA 30341 729-1785. Director of Human Resources Official Casio Distributor The Forschner Group, Inc. ORDERS (800) 418-2345 One Research Drive INFORMATION (404) 939-4511 L&R Varimatic-Ultrasonic watch cleaning ma­ Shelton, CT 06484 chine (2). Excellent condition. Ken Waldhorn, Equal Opportunity Employer (810) 399-3067. HAMILTON MILITARY MATERIAL.Many parts available for 992B, 4992B, M23, M22 deck watch, M21 marine chronometer, brass hard­ HOROLOGICAL TIMES MAGAZINES. 200 r Mc,N"Ev - MoN'Ev- -"Mc>NE\r, ware for boxes. Robert Ravel Co., Box 32, De­ back issues, 1977-1994. Best offer. Russell Gray, I WATCH REPAIR PEOPLE I von, PA 19333. Phone (610) 644-4272. 8416 Avery Rd., Baltimore, MD 21237; (410) I Has your salary doubled in the last 3 years? I 682-4691. I Are you losing income? I Up to $52,000+ per year BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! I I Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, SLIGH OR HOWARD MILLER 40-50% off re­ L - .J H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. tail. Tom Carpenter, Clocks Etc., 2131 Market _P!,a! :!II,!~ !~~o- - St., Wheeling, WV 26041 or (304) 232-4106.

A complete selection of spare parts for the Golden Hour Clock ii BUSINESSES FR SAL'i: Ii ~ii =--SCiiiiiiiiiiiHiiiiiiiiiiiOOiiiiiiiiiiiLS=~li The Golden Hour Clock Co. 77 45 East Redfield Road #500 Watch/Clock Repair and Engraving Shop. Est. Scottsdale, AZ. 85260 25 years. Sales: gifts, clocks, awards. Excellent 602-483-3711 equipment & inventory. Gross six figures & JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL growing steadily. Located on Army base/5-year 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 government contract-requires watchmaker on Phone(718)424-2929 premises. Perfect for watchmaker owner/op­ TIMING MACHINES erator. For serious inquiry please call (602) 458- Quality Instruction Since 1945 0076. Business hours 9-5 Mon.-Sat. WATCHMAKING (17months) WATCH REPAIR RErtf WAf4TED (9 and 13 months) 11 II JEWELRY DESIGN & REPAIR Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation *TIMETRAX 600 Wrist & Pocket Watch Timer: WATCH SCHOOL GRADUATE Measures & displays watch trains in vibrations per hour, calculates gain or loss in sec/day. OR Over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200-36000/ EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER hr. Highly stable TCXOtimebase. Completew/ Full time position. Work on high grade watches. Good pay, good benefits. The Johnson Family's watch holder & pickups ...... $595 Diamond Cellar, Columbus, Ohio. (614) 457- *TIMETRAX 400 Clock Timer: Measures & 0445, 1-800-222-6642. displays clock trains in vibrations per hour. I1 'ii Extended timing range for 400-day & Atmos clocks. Balance mode aids in setting move­ FINE WATCHMAKER WANTED WANTED: Paying high prices for chronograph ment in beat. Complete w/pickup ...... $395 DALLAS, TEXAS and high grade watches, movements, dials, *TIMETRAX 160 Clock Timer/Beat Amplifier. We service Rolex watches exclusively. We ex­ cases, & parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25 W. Beverley Battery powered, portable, directtrain readout pect to train you in our ways and methods. St., Staunton, VA24401, phone &fax(703) 885- of beats per hour 100-19999, and new digital W atchmakingschool graduate preferred. Work­ 6064. balance mode. Complete w/pickup ...... $159 ing facilities superior, compensation depends on your production. The hours are Monday All units made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete through Friday. All holidays observed. Benefits We pay 97% ofmarket for karat gold scrap (any with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 are health and dental insurance and retire­ amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, stamps for info & our Catalog of Horological ment plan. Ifyou truly want to develop a career silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment Literature & Timing Machines. and become a thoroughly professional, fine return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: ~ Adams Brownto., Box 1, Cranbury NJ watchmaker, this is the place to be. Send re­ AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King .AC!d 08512 (609) 655-8269 Fax 655-8102 plies to: Box HW495, c/o Horological Times, St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. 54 Horological Times/April 1995 J

ANYTHING ILLINOIS WANTED Want to buy Illinois wristwatches, dials, move­ WANTED: WATCH PARTS, ments and cases (complete or parts) in any • Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars MOVEMENTS & RELATED MATERIAL condition for avid private collector. Please call Material House searching for parts, movements, Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. 800-421-1968, x5520, Fax 714-725-9787 or mail Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold etc. Small assortments to entire supply houses. to Fred Friedberg, do TAMS, P.O. Box 2068, Please call Joe Griffin at Griffin Watch Co. (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) Tustin, CA 92681-2068. • Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service 5 South Mast St., Goffstown, NH 03045 (603) 497-2624 Sets, Etc. • Scrap--Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) itfLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 ;; - • ·11 £3 I I I-= SPECIALTY METALS ~ REFINING COMPANY § ~ ~... I =-- 10 Bay Street Westport, CT 06880 THE BEST OF J.E. COLEMAN-CLOCKMAKER by Orville R. Hagans. An aid to Members: Better BusinessBureau Jewelers Board of Trade solving everyday problems in clock repairing. $30.00 Ron Fried, President Our 120th Consecutive Ad GRUEN WATCHES: A SPECIAL COLLECTION by Robert D. Gruen. A collection of Gruen watches with photos and descriptions. $6.95 RETIRING, RETIRED, OR OTHERWISE. Buy­ ingwatchmaker's large or small accumulations HOW TO BUILD A REGULATOR CLOCK by J.M. Huckabee. Shop drawings with of tools, materials, etc. Will travel east of the Mississippi. Ken Waldhorn, (810) 399-3067. critical drawing notes, 82 fully illustrated pages. $18.00

MILITARY TIMEPIECES by Marvin E. Whitney. Probably the most complete WANTED: ''DEAD ORALIVE" compilation on military timepieces to date. Harwood wristwatches, dials, cases, movements $75.00 (complete or parts) to: Don Kraker, 4325 No. 5th St., Fresno, CA 93726; (209) 229-8423. THE MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE by Henry B. Fried. The unique collection of watches, clocks, tools, etc. of the American Watch­ makers lnstitute's Museum. $125.00

Watches Wanted QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE CLOCKMAKING PROFESSION by AWi. Experts answer everyday questions about clockmaking. $14.95

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS IN QUARTZ WATCH REPAIRING by Alice B. Carpenter and Buddy Carpenter. A basic understanding of quartz technology. $12.95

REPAIRING QUARTZ WATCHES by Henry B. Fried. Includes a basic course in electricity & electronic horology. $26.00 We desperately need our retail THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER by Marvin E. Whitney. A concise treatise on the customers' fine watches by: fascinating nautical timepiece, for the collector as well as the horologist. $75.00 Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, TIMING MANIPULATION by James L. Hamilton. 63 pages plus three large charts for Gubelin, etc. the serious student of timing mechanical watches. $4.50

We are paying top prices for any high WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE by W.H. Samelius. The writing of quality, unusual or complicated Samelius edited by 0.R. Hagans. $30.00 Wrist or Pocket Watches THE WATCH REPAIRER'S MANUAL by Henry B. Fried. The newly expanded and When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch updated fourth edition of this popular textbook on watch repair. $30.00 Call Us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 In Texas 1-214-902-0664 If you are interested in any of the above books, please send your order along Always prompt immediate payment! with a check or money order made payable to AWi Press. (U.S. Funds only.) Include your name, address, zip code, and phone number and send to: AWi Wingate's Quality Watches Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 ALL BOOKS SHIPPED POSTPAID

Horological Times/April 1995 SS .____ A_WI_B_m_·_1m_·n_g_U_p_d_a _te__ __.J .___J _A_d_In_d_e_x _____. By Charles Cleves, Building Committee Chairman

We're on our way! If a picture is worth a thousand words, here are a few American Perfit Crystal Corp ...... 26 thousand I'm happy to share with you. With the arrival of the steel, the building really started coming to life. Borel ...... 5 George Daniels has committed to being here for our grand opening, and sev­ eral other very special guests will also be on hand. Make sure you've contacted AWI. Now is the time to get your preregistration packet. Butterworth Clocks ...... 6

Cas-Ker ...... inside back cover

Esslinger ...... inside front cover

ETA SA ...... 3

2/3/95. One day after the steel arrived 2/3/95. As seen from the future park­ S. LaRose, Inc ...... 11 for the building, the columns were ing lot, the front entry has been con­ being set and the first cross-beam be­ structed, and columns await the cross­ tween the library and the museum was beams. Levin, Louis & Son, Inc ...... 33 in place.

Livesay's, Inc ...... 15

McCaw ...... 23

Newall Mfg ...... 41

2/8/95. Just five days after the steel S&G Industries ...... 33 arrived, roofing trusses were nearly all in place. This is a view of the library and museum from the main office Twin City Supply ...... 21 area.

United Tool and Material Co ...... 36

Vibrograf ...... 17

2/8/95. From inside the "tent" the What-i-use ...... 9 clock tower nears completion. Visible here are the vents that will permit the hours' strikes to be heard throughout Witschi ...... 19 the office park. 2/8/95. Behind the nearly completed clock tower (note the dial openings near the top), our new headquarters building takes shape. 56 Horological Times/April 1995 If you repair ~atches or replace crystals, you need to read this.

Your best source for watch material is Cas-Ker. We carry a huge inventory of the watch parts you need. As an example, we stock approximately 9,000 different models of crystals for Seiko. Our experienced clerks will provide you with quick and efficient service. We ~ Q ~-~ ship over 95% of orders the same day as received.

Call Gas-Ker for your next order. You'll be glad you did

"J-< ~ ~u u"""'~~: ~ ;::; """'u~~u: ~ ~ FAX 1-800-487-5848 LOCAL PHONE 513/241-7073 FAX 513/2,.rct.--alMHI

VISA- 1995 AWi BENCH COURSES To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration fee of $50.00 per instruction day (AWI members) to: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the EARLIEST POSTMARKS. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, signature, and phone number. FAX (513) 661-3131 -- INFORMATION (513) 661-3838

APRIL1995 22-23 Introduction to Clock Repair Seattle, WA 1-2 Modem Mechanical Chronographs Orlando, FL 22-23 Introduction to American Pocket Watches Chattanooga, TN 1-2 Introduction to American Pocket Watches Raleigh, NC 8 Quartz Perpetual Calendar Indianapolis, IN AUGUST1995 22-23 Cuckoo Clock Repair Raleigh, NC 4-7 Lathe Course (Phase III) Little Rock, AR 22-23 400-Day Clock Repair Savannah, GA 5-6 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Oakland, CA 28-May 1 Lathe Course (Phase II) Little Rock, AR 12-13 Cuckoo Clock Repair Denver, CO 29-30 Repair of the Atmos Clock Sault Ste. Marie, MI 18-21 Lathe Course (Phase II) Minneapolis, MN 19-20 Hairspring Vibrating San Diego, CA MAY1995 26-27 StrikingClocks Boston, MA 6-7 Hairspring Vibrating Philadelphia, PA 12-14 Mechanical Watch Repair Denver, CO SEPTEMBER 1995 9-10 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Albuquerque, NM JUNE1995 9-10 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Minneapolis, MN 3-4 Cuckoo Clock Repair Minneapolis, MN 16-17 CuckooClockRepair Seattle, WA 16-17 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Boston, MA JULY1995 22-25 Lathe Course (Phase I) Tucson, AZ* 1-2 Cuckoo Clock Repair Cleveland, OH 23-24 400-Day Clock Repair Richmond, VA 14-17 Lathe Course (Phase I) Minneapolis, MN 23-25 Mechanical Watch Repair Tucson, AZ* (*) Held in conjunction with a convention / • COURSES&INSTRUCTORS Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair The Watch/Clockmakers Lathe Course Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Roy Hovey Phase I: Basic Theory, Tools and Advanced Clock Repair Mechanical Chronographs Accessories for the Roland Iverson, CMC James Lubic Watch/Clockmakers Lathe

Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Mechanical Watch Repair Phase II: Making Wheels, Function Robert Bishop, CMEW James Lubic Control Arbors and Lantern Pinions Cuckoo Clock Repair Modem Mechanical Chronographs James Williams, CC RemyWaelchli Phase Ill: Making Staffs, Jewel Settings for Watches and Marine 400-Day Clock Repair Quartz Perpetual Calendar Chronometers, Turning John Nagle Remy Waelchli Between Centers, and the Jacot Tool Hairspring Vibrating Repair of the Atmos Clock Joseph Cerullo, CMW, CMC GeraldJaeger,CMW,CMEW,FAWI Phase IV: Making Wheels/Pinions and Use of the Pivot Polishing Introduction to American Pocket Watches Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs Accessory Alice Carpenter, CMW, CMEW James Broughton, CMEW, FAWI

Introduction to Clock Repair Striking Clocks Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW John Nagle 1995 AWi PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES Project Extend classes are held in Cincinnati, OH. To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration fee of$50.00 per instruction day (AWI members) to: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, signature, and phone number. FAX (513) 661-3131 -- INFORMATION (513) 661-3838

APRIL1995 24-28 Watch I (American Pocket Watches) Alice Carpenter 17-21 Basic Jewelry & Watch Case Repair Marshall Richmond 24-28 Clock II (Striking Clocks) John Nagle MAY1995 31-Aug 4 Clock ill (Escapements) John Nagle 1-5 Watch II (Staffing & Lever Escapement) James Lubic 8-12 Clock I (Beginning Clock Repair) Jim LaChapelle AUGUST1995 15-19 Clock Case Repair Jim Williams 7-11 Clock IV (Advanced Clocks) Ron Iverson 14-18 Clock V (Antique Clocks) David Christianson JUNE1995 21-25 Clock VII (Prep for CMC exam) David Christianson 5-9 Quartz I (Meter Reading, etc.) Gerald Jaeger 28-Sept 1 Watch VIII (Prep for CMW exam) Jim Lubic 12-16 Quartz II (Advanced Quartz) Bob Bishop SEPTEMBER 1995 JULY1995 11-15 Quartz III (Prep for CMEW exam) Alice Carpenter 9-13 Precision Timing Antoine Simonin 18-22 Watch III (Hairsprings & Balances) Jim Lubic