RMRU NEWSLETTER

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RMRU Member Profile 2012-13 Mission Reviews RMRU Rock Training

RMRU NEWSLETTER 2

IN THIS ISSUE “Alone we can do so little; together we can do so much.” Helen Keller

DS MEMBER PROFILE: NICK NIXON Retiring RMRU rescuer Nick Nixon discusses his time on the team and commitment to Search and Rescue. Page 3-4

2012-2013 MISSION REVIEWS It’s been a busy season for RMRU. We’ve included some of the most exciting highlights. Page 5-20

RIVERSIDE MOUNTAIN RESCUE UNIT 3

Rescue Committee Letter

This past year has been an eventful In a symphony of interagency RMRU ROCK TRAINING From helicopter hoist training, to tracing, to snow & ice, one for RMRU. In addition to cooperation, this year (for the first and rock, RMRU team members are always busy completing a host of rescues, time) we used Cal-Fire equipment in keeping their rescue skills sharp. Here’s an inside look at one of our training days from the viewpoint of a team RMRU is proud to be one of the a rescue conducted by RMRU team member. founding members of the new members in a Riverside Sheriff Page 21-23 Riverside County SAR council. We Aviation Helicopter. Cal-Fire has

are working with the Riverside been a critical aid to our team in the County Sheriff and other SAR past. We would like to thank them teams to develop guidelines for for their help and we look forward Mountain Rescue operations that to working and training more with will help define and standardize the them in the near future. future of SAR in our County. We would also like to thank our This year, RMRU has worked hard team members for their unfaltering to deepen our relationship with our dedication in showing up over and closest partners and to expand our over to the “call in the middle of the range of resources and allies. This night”. As RMRU team members year we have completed joint always say in parting: “See you rescues with multiple agencies tonight!” including: Cal-Fire, CHP, U.S. Forest Service, and (of course!) the RMRU RESCUE COMMITTEE Riverside Sheriff's Aviation unit. RMRU NEWSLETTER 3

Member Profile: Nick Nixon by Nick Nixon, edited by Helene Lohr

After the typical Boy Scout experiences as a teenager in the Santa Barbara area, I went off to college and the Air Force and got away from hiking and camping. At about 50 years of age I rediscovered my love of the mountains.

Volunteer USFS & State Park Ranger

I started hiking in the San Jacintos Nick familiarizing team members with local and before long I became a Forest trails and terrain. Service volunteer Ranger, hiking all over the area above Devil's Slide A previous volunteer Ranger for both Trail. After about four years of doing I have encouraged all RMRU the Forest Service and State Park this, I decided to learn more about members to get out on the trail as System, Nick Nixon is famous the higher country and volunteered much as in possible. To go to areas amongst RMRU members for his near with the State Park as a wilderness they haven't been to before. You encyclopedic knowledge of the San patroller, first on the Idyllwild side don’t have to be the fastest on the Jacinto High Country terrain. This and then off of the Tram. trail to be important to the team. year, after many years of dedicated Often knowledge is more important service to the team, Nick retired from The senior Ranger at the State Park than speed. RMRU spend more time in the (Eric Hanson) made technical rescue Wilderness he loves so well. He will be training a priority. It took me from missed, but we look forward to seeing someone who didn't know a him on the trail! carabiner from a litter, to someone who could be a contributing team “You don’t have to be the member on a technical rescue. fastest on the trail to be Once again, after about five years at important to the team. the State Park, I decided to take one Often knowledge is more more step up and applied for RMRU. important than speed.” This progression just seemed natural for me. RMRU RESCUER NICK NIXON

On Lessons Learned

The biggest asset that I brought to In my opinion teamwork is one of the RMRU was a solid knowledge of the Nick leads the way for Team 2 on a mission most important aspects of being a in the State Park High Country San Jacinto Mountains. Over the successful Search and Rescue years as a patroller, I gained a pretty member. It is a lesson I learned with good level of knowledge of the Trail the State Park and as a member of system and our local terrain. RMRU I have always tried to always keep it in mind.

RMRU NEWSLETTER 4 is no better feeling at an RMRU Favorite Memories mission than hoisting out a subject. Often at the end of a mission, many of the team would sit down together to have something to eat. Memories One of my favorite hoist missions of sitting together with these “Besides knowing that a was looking for two senior ranking friends, often exhausted and in need subject is safe, there is no Marine officers who became lost. of sleep, knowing we had done They ended up being spotted by Star better feeling at an RMRU something meaningful together as a 9 between Laws Camp and team, is something I will always mission than hoisting out a Carumba. Star 9 radioed that they remember. subject.” were going to go to Skunk Cabbage Meadow to set up for a hoist and Recently I reached a point that with RMRU RESCUER NICK NIXON asked for a RMRU member to meet diminished hearing and an

them there. I was teamed up with occasional sciatic nerve problem, I The First Mission Paul Caraher, who had not yet had knew that I couldn't contribute as hoist training. It was one of his first much as I would want to RMRU. The most memorable aspect of my missions. Paul and I took off for the first mission as a member of RMRU is meadow and were the first RMRU So I'm back as a State Park how it began for me. I had just had a members there. After making sure Wilderness Patroller. I look forward plate of ribs placed in front of me at that another team was coming to to contributing as a hasty responder a restaurant in Temecula where my meet Paul, I flew off with the crew of on search and rescue events up in family was having dinner to meet the Star 9. It was an exciting and the State Park before RMRU gets guy that my daughter would end up successful hoist and evacuation. onto the mission. I hope to see new marrying. The text message came, and old RMRU members up on the and off I went (I had the ribs the next trail. I'll be checking up on the team day). now and then. RMRU will always be part of me. A father and 3 year old daughter had “ It took me from someone become lost when wandering off the who didn't know a ~Nick Nixon South Ridge trail. Lee, Patrick, Will, Jim and Grace and I responded that carabiner from a litter, to evening. I went out on team two someone who could be a with Will and Jim. contributing team Very quickly we established voice member on a technical contact with the subjects. Star 9 was rescue.” up helping us. Unfortunately, there RMRU RESCUER NICK NIXON was a very strong wind that made it too dangerous for the helicopter to complete the rescue. Star 9 ended up lowering Will onto the slope with I was fortunate to also do a hoist for an overnight bag to the subjects a paraglider who crashed on North where Will spent the night with Mountain north of The City of San them. The next morning Will walked Jacinto. It was dark, the slope was (crawled) out with them. All ended very steep and the surface was loose well. and sliding. Despite the difficult Nick as part of the litter haul team on Big conditions, as always Star 9 did a Rock near Lake Perris great job.

On Helicopter Hoisting

Like many RMRU team members, I really enjoyed hoisting from the Sheriff's helicopter (Star 9). Besides knowing that a subject is safe, there RMRU NEWSLETTER 5

2012-13 Mission Reviews

RMRU members are on The following pages contain a call 24/7, to search for and rescue hikers, selection of first hand accounts skiers, rock climbers of RMRU missions written by and outdoorsmen the team members involved. whenever and wherever tragedy strikes.

Climber Injured in Fall can often make the seemingly Dave was in good spirits sitting at assured success of helicopter the base of the rock after being September 23, 2012 missions unpredictable. Chad lowered by his 2 sons and 2 other Tahquitz Rock Written by Donny Goetz Marler joined Les and I at Humber climbers, Dave C. and Tiffany L. and decided to hold back and run (also good friends of mine), who We got the call around 1 pm that base until the truck arrived. Les had been kind enough to assist. a climber had taken a fall on and I took off with a member of Tiffany also happens to be a nurse Angel's Fright, a popular, Cal Fire's team and booked it up and was able to administer basic moderate route up Tahquitz Rock to the base. first aid up high on the rock and had sustained injuries to both before they began descending of his ankles. Les sent me a text Just as we reached Lunch Rock, with the subject. It appeared that immediately to see where I was. I CDF's helicopter 301 was Dave may have fractured one of had just walked in to Gary's Deli preparing to lower their medic to his ankles. The medic on scene to grab some lunch. I ordered a the base. We caught our breath had splinted Dave's ankle and had hearty sandwich knowing I would and watched as the medic him ready for transport. need a bit more fuel, said dropped out of the bird and goodbye to my friends, hopped in began his descent. About 50 feet my truck and made a bee line for down, he started to swing and we

Humber Park. I arrived there the could see the pilot attempt a correction but it was clear that same time as Les to find about 5 CDF and USFS trucks on scene. the gusty nature of the wind that day was going to make this quite

Idyllwild Fire had a paramedic on difficult. The pilot and medic his way up the Lunch Rock trail decided that this was too Subject, Donny, and Les on ledge already. I took a look through Les' dangerous of a maneuver and Photo by Chad Marler binoculars and found the injured they pulled out. So now Les and I knew it was our show. party being lowered down the The area around the base is very route with the assistance of steep and covered in loose rock several other climbers. CDF had a We hustled the last 100 yards up hill to the base of the rock where so we knew carrying Dave out helicopter en route but Les and I would be quite a challenge. We decided it would be prudent to Idyllwild Fire's medic was on scene with our subject, Dave. decided it was prudent to head up the trail anyway as winds construct anchors on the rock to RMRU NEWSLETTER 6 allow us to belay the rescue liter Les and I had finished the anchors gear, said goodbye to Dave C. down the hill, at least until we and began loading Dave into the and Tiffany and headed down to were in a position where it was rescue litter. We had our catch up with the rest of the crew. safe enough to handle it all by lightweight titanium litter with hand. wheel which worked like a As I caught up with Les belaying champ. I put a harness on Dave the litter from his tree anchor, we We began building our anchors and used 2 prussiks affixed to the decided that we should continue while Chad was leading a USFS top end of the litter to keep his this leap frog belay line approach crew up the trail with extra rope body from sliding down and a bit further down the hill, at least and about 15 folks who would be putting pressure on his injured to just below Lunch Rock. So I ran there to help us with the carry ankles. We tied our ropes onto ahead to set our next anchor. We out. Patrick McCurdy had also the litter, checked our anchors did this 2 more times until we arrived at Humber Park along one last time and gave the order were below the short 3rd class with Gwenda who had brought up for some of our massive crew to area I refer to as "the bowling the truck. Patrick headed up and pick Dave up and begin moving alley", an area tired climbers met us at the base just after Chad him down the hill. The loose rock often lose their footing and slide and the USFS crew had arrived. proved to be quite a challenge for a few feet down the hill. At this We now had so many people it some of the Bautista crew and we point we felt it was safe to let the was almost a challenge just to had a few of them slip on a crews carry Dave without the find something for everyone to number of occasions. belay line. We continued down do. If that wasn't enough, we the trail at a steady pace and were then informed that another made it back to Humber Park crew from the Bautista around 6:30, just before sunset. correctional facility was on their way up the trail too! Dave's 2 sons were there waiting to drive him to the hospital for some x-rays. They were happy to see their comrade down the hill and in good shape. Dave was in great spirits and thanked us all for Patrick and Donny lower the litter our help. We then sorted out all of Photo by Chad Marler our gear, debriefed with all of the folks involved, and headed out. At one point, they almost lost Our team headed straight to La control of the litter but our belay Casita for some grub! line arrested the slip. With so RMRU team members present: Donny many people there to help, we Goetz, Michael George, Chad Marler, were able to rotate through and Patrick McCurdy, Les Walker, and keep everyone tending to the liter Gwenda Yates. quite fresh. As we ran near the end of our rope, we decided the Assisting agencies: Engine 23-Pine Cove, Engine 53-Garner Valley, Bautista Crew 5, litter was still in a dicey area so Engine 56-Keenwild, and Tahquitz Crew Les and Patrick headed down the from Keenwild. hill with a rope and set another Rescuers prepare litter for lower Photo by Chad Marler anchor off a tree and transferred the litter onto their new rope. I stayed up top, broke down the

anchors, packed up the remaining RMRU NEWSLETTER 7 Rescue Horsethief dramatic story of a man with "two Oh man. I look over at Craig. This prosthetic legs, injured and is big country out here. There's a Creek covered in blood." Cal-Fire is lot of ground for just two people October 12, 2012 already on trail to his location. We to cover. I guess we'd better get Palms to Pines Highway 74 are to provide backup manpower to it! As Craig and I conduct a last by Helene Lohr on the litter. cross-check of our gear and sort out our plan of attack, a paramedic brings the welcome It was supposed to be a simple carryout. But if there's one thing news that DSAR has been you learn in Search and Rescue, “Intermittent cell service contacted to join in on the search you should never believe contact with the subject with an additional 6 people. We decide to hold off heading into everything you hear about a call- tells the highly dramatic out. the field until we have the story of a man with ‘two additional manpower. The "heads-up" text comes in at prosthetic legs, injured 12:30 early Friday morning; a and covered in blood’.” In the meantime, the RSO deputy has established shaky cell contact warning that a call-out might be RMRU RESCUER HELENE LOHR on its way. I groan, roll back over with our subject once again. Parked at the Tewanet overlook, and stuff my head under the pillow. The call-out may or may the deputy pointed his headlights out into the abyss of canyons not happen, but I'll catch as much The flashing lights lead us directly south of the 74 and was able to sleep as I can in the meantime. At to the fire engine at Cactus Spring roughly ballpark the subject's 1:30 am the sharp "ding" of a text trailhead. We arrive on scene, location on the trail. The deputy announces that we do indeed ready to spring into action. have another mission. repeats cardinal rule of Search Not so fast. We're informed that and Rescue to the subject: "Stay Everyone but Craig Wills and I are the fire crew is already on their put. We're coming for you." off the hill tonight. With the team way back out, but without the so short-handed, there's no going subject. They hiked in several back to sleep on this one. I roll out miles with a heavy litter in their of bed and shuffle over to pull on full call-out gear, but were not my hiking pants and orange shirt. able to locate the subject at his “ The deputy repeats I load the 4Runner up with gear: self-reported location at the cardinal rule of Search and my standard call out pack plus crossing with Horsethief Creek. Rescue to the subject: additional food, water, medical, "Stay put. We're coming warmth and overnighting gear. Apparently the elusive subject Even though it's reported as a has moved (against orders by the for you.” simple carryout, you never really deputy) and isn't responding to RMRU RESCUER HELENE LOHR know what's coming when you hit attempted voice or cell contact. the trailhead. I swing by Craig's With failing headlamps and house for a quick pickup and sagging energy after a tortuous we're on the road with our hike the Cal-Fire crew is not set The united RMRU/DSAR Search traditional Rammstein blasting up for a major search. team decides we will hike in out the stereo. together with CDF along the trail. What was once assumed a simple Once we can see the police The request is to assist Cal-Fire assisted on-trail carryout has now vehicle headlights, we should be with a critical carryout. become a full-blown search directly in the subject's vicinity. Intermittent cell service contact covering miles of wild canyons. He's been told to stay put, so we with the subject tells the highly RMRU NEWSLETTER 8 should be good to go. Great! sort of terrain? We wind our way Highway 74 are so tantalizing. Sounds simple enough. up the ridgeline, towards the They appear to be so close, slowly brightening horizon to the almost within reach, especially As we head out, the final search east. We call out once in a while, when the rough terrain and party consists of RMRU and just in case our subject has gone impassable cliffs are concealed DSAR, also jointed by 2 CDF and 1 to sleep or wandered off trail into under the cover of night. But still- seriously dedicated paramedic a nearby ravine. you have to marvel that a man carrying around 60 lbs. of gear. with two prosthetic legs could make it that far off trail in this We take turns trundling the litter kind of rough terrain! Something and the wheel over the dusty and just doesn't seem quite right rocky terrain towards the here. subject's last reported location. Hiking with a litter can be After a brief conference, the strenuous, even without a subject decision is made to head back strapped in. After several minutes down to the crossing with on litter duty the cold night Horsethief creek. We'll attempt to seems suddenly all too warm and access the neighboring canyon by we stop to strip down to our following the scar of the boulder- bright orange team shirts. After a strewn creek downstream. We couple miles we reach the Craig Wills on Ridgeline just once again make the wise crossing with Horsethief Creek. before dawn decision to leave the litter at the Photo by Helene Lohr crossing. Staring up in the moonlight we survey the challenge ahead of us. Reaching the top of the climb, I The ridge looms in front of us, a look to the North. In the far in the final extended vertical push of distance the red and blue flashers steep and rocky switchbacks up of the deputy's vehicle are visible, to where our subject supposedly its headlights pointed directly awaits us. We stop to deliberate. towards us. Should we lug the litter up this extreme grade without Radio contact with the deputy confirmation of the subject's yields disturbing information: He whereabouts? He's already recently saw the subject's light moved on us once. "That could 400 yards below our current just burn us out… and if he's not location. Since there's another ridgeline between us and the there, well..." notes Sharon from Cal-Fire, RMRU and DSAR take a DSAR. road, the only way the subject's much needed break light could be seen below us is if Photo by Helene Lohr We call out towards the ridgeline he's ...(sigh) massively off trail! "1...2...3... Hello!" ...and wait In brightening light of dawn, we expectantly for an answer. None Oh dagnabit: He's been moving pick our way through the rocks, comes. Calling again produces again! I share a look of frustrated debris and puddles that clutter the same result. The decision is understanding with Craig. We the narrow base of the ravine. made to leave the litter at the both know we're in for a much Just over a mile in we receive base of the climb until we've longer night. Looking again to the encouraging radio contact: "He's confirmed his location. He should north, I can understand why the on the move! The deputy can see be nearby. How far could a man subject would be tempted to him!" The subject has made his with 2 prosthetic legs get in this make a go of it. The lights from way to a ravine far below the RMRU NEWSLETTER 9 Tewanet lookout. Of course the there are some very steep drop- of three, cutting an exhausting canyon is far too steep for him to offs between us and him." hike of several hours down to a climb out of, but now we at least Getting to the subject on foot matter of minutes. have a visual. The deputy would be very difficult and establishes faint voice contact extricating him on foot even Thank you Cal-Fire! and finally gets the subject to worse. Luckily, the weather is stop moving. calm and clear and the canyon Back at staging area we get the wide enough for the Cal-Fire air- scoop on our subject (who has crew to hoist. What a relief. We refused medical care and already stand by as the Cal-Fire left). The “double amputee” Helicopter extracts our elusive "covered in blood" , was actually a subject and returns him to guy with a couple of bad knees trailhead parking lot. who had gotten a bit scratched up by the brush during his cross- Now all we have to worry about is country travels. Craig and I look ourselves. After hiking around all at each other and can't help but night carrying a full call-out pack laugh. What a great punch line. and litter after a moving target, Sigh... like I said before... you we're not looking forward to the should never believe everything long hike out. you hear about a call-out.

RMRU team members present: Helene Lohr and Craig Wills.

Assisting agencies: Desert Search and Rescue (DSAR), Cal-Fire, and California Division of Forestry (CDF).

Cal-Fire Helicopter flies overhead on it’s way to the subject Photo by Helene Lohr Search South Ridge

A few minutes later, even better Trail news crackles its way over the radio. A Cal-Fire Helicopter is October 13, 2012 available and will be here in a few by Helene Lohr minutes. The relieved team shares a quick celebration as we I look down at the text, sigh and Cal-Fire Helicopter extracts take a much-needed break from kick off the high heels I had just grateful Search and Rescue teams slipped on. Dinner down in the clambering through the ankle- Photo by Helene Lohr twisting rocky debris. Snacks are desert can wait; we have a call passed round and drinks shared. Luckily, our generous friends at out. 15 minutes later my heels Cal-Fire have a greatly and black dress have been As the thup-thup-thup of the appreciated solution: they are exchanged for an orange shirt helicopter approaches our mood willing to spend the extra time and hiking boots. I'm sitting in the starts to lift. Help from the air is and effort to extract the search passenger seat of Lee's truck as always appreciated. The Cal-Fire team as well! The helicopter crew we bounce up the rutted dirt road crewman on radio detail reports, drops a man in along the trail leading to South Ridge Trailhead. "Ground crew is about 1500 feet behind us to clear a landing zone. from him as the crow flies, but The copter extracts us in groups RMRU NEWSLETTER 10 It's a search. Out from the East the hill are on their way. Gwenda helicopter, but then he flew away. coast for a relaxing time camping is bringing our RMRU Rescue If the deputy wouldn't have kept in the mountains, the subject Truck, Dana is heading up the telling me to stay put, I would (Herb) had wandered off to the mountain and Paul is already on have definitely moved!" south to meditate, became the way out from Orange County. disoriented and used his cell to Good to know- if anything goes After giving Herb a few minutes call his friend back at camp. As wrong we may need additional to drink and eat, we make the call Herb told his friend he was people. Since we still have to head back quickly. We might became increasingly lost, his daylight, Lee and I make the call still be able to beat the sunset. friend hung up and made the call to head out as a hasty team and Herb certainly isn't dressed for to contact 911. see if we can locate the subject nighttime in the mountains and before nightfall complicates the the temperature will be dropping We see the red and blue flashers matter. After a quick cross-check quickly. ahead and pull up parallel to the of our gear, we swing on our Sheriff's car. Mark Young is the packs and head out cross country Lee is familiar with the area, and Riverside Sherriff Officer deputy through the heavy brush. Thick after a few minutes of hiking he on scene. He's in contact with the stands of Manzanita, Chinquapin, locates an unofficial mountain subject by cell and already has a and various other thorny and bike trail. Having a nice, smooth, good handle on the situation. spiky obstacles have us swerving brush-free trail makes the going off course more than once. We much easier for our exhausted subject. We reach the truck and note landmarks along the way to keep us on track for our way back. load Herb into the back seat. We “Point your chest to the pull up next to Deputy Young as setting sun and describe Once the helicopter peels away the last fading rays of the sun disappeared in the west. Mission what you can see in front and the forest becomes quiet again, we yell ahead to establish accomplished. of you.” voice contact. "1...2...3... Hello!" DEPUTY MARK YOUNG Herb responds loudly and boisterously "Hey, Hey, Hey! I'm over here! I'm here!" His voice is coming from a few hundred yards Young uses his previous military directly ahead. experience to help pinpoint Herb's location. "Point your chest "Stay put! We'll come to you!" We start out again, picking our way to the setting sun and describe what you can see in front of you." through the brush and calling out Having the subject turn in a circle once in a while to make sure we and relate what he sees at each stay on course. Within a matter of Lee, Subject, Helene, and Deputy 90 degree angle gives Young a minutes we crest a hill and come Young at Base Photo by Gwenda Yates good idea of Herb's location. This across a thankful Herb. He's helps him guide the Sheriff's dressed in tattered blue sweat helicopter Star 9 rapidly to the shorts, his arms and legs covered RMRU team members present: Lee spot. Star 9 hovers above Herb with scratches from forcing his Arnson, Paul Caraher, Helene Lohr, for several minutes, allowing us way through the sharp foliage. Dana Potts, and Gwenda Yates. to get a bead on the direction and After shaking our hands, he distance we'll need to go. gratefully guzzles the Nalgene bottle of water Lee passes his We get the news that several way. "Man, I'm soooo glad to see members of the team from off you! I was waving at the RMRU NEWSLETTER 11 Climbers Rope Stuck members Lee Arnson, Helene agreed that the fastest way to Lohr and Ralph Hoetger arrived reach them would be to climb up October 21, 2012 and we laid out our plan of action a parallel route to the summit and Tahquitz Rock together. Donny and I would rappel down to them. We would by Les Walker head out up the access trail to the then bring them back to the top base of Tahquitz to establish of the rock and eventually walk It was a typical Sunday evening. I voice contact with the stranded around and down the Friction was hanging out with my wife, climbers while Lee and Helene descent route. The up-route that and my fellow team member and would be close behind bringing best matched this plan was The neighbor, Donny. We had just up the ropes and other technical Trough, a 5.4 rated climb that finished dinner and were winding gear that we might need. Ralph Donny and I have done many down from the weekend while would run Base (base operations). times. But this time would be a Donny prepared to head to little different in the dark and Orange County for his workweek. completely loaded down with Donny and I had been discussing gear. that we had not been on a rescue in a while and that it seemed we Lee and Helene helped us get our were due. He even had his team gear sorted and prepared the jacket on as if predicting the extra rope to be worn like a night's events to follow. backpack up the route. Donny had a full rack of cams and nuts,

Well, at 8:30 p.m. the call came in plus runners and slings; I had the from Glenn Henderson, "Hello exact duplicate set up. We just

Les, you ready for a mission? We did not know what we might have two climbers trapped on need, but all this gear did not

Tahquitz Rock and they need make for a nimble climb! With help." Before Glenn could tell me headlights and helmets on, Lee anymore, I told him to hang on as and Helene joined us on the way I need to catch Donny before he to the start of The Trough to wish left. I ran to the door and yelled us good luck. across the street to Donny, "RESCUE on the rock, GEAR UP." I then called Glenn back and got Les, Donny and Lee at the base of the full briefing. Two climbers Tahquitz Rock. Photo by Helene Lohr had got their rope stuck on their climb and were unable to ascend Donny reached the base of the or descend from their position on rock first. He was able to establish a climbing route called the Finger voice communication with the Trip. climbers and to get an idea of where they were and if anyone With that information Donny and was in need of medical attention. I rushed to pack our gear and Les and Donny start their climb. They were not hurt, just stranded. Photo by Helene Lohr prepare our climbing equipment I joined Donny and we began to for the rescue. We loaded up and separate out our gear as Lee and got to Humber Park where we Helene arrived. Donny took the lead up and I tied were briefed by the Sheriff into the rope as we began to Deputy on scene. During that Donny and I discussed the fastest Simul climb. Simul climbing is a time local Idyllwild team way to the subjects and we climbing method or style where RMRU NEWSLETTER 12 both climbers climb at the same route that the subjects were on. time while tied into the rope. Donny set up a system of Protection is placed by a pseudo- redundant anchors and I flaked leader and the second removes out the ropes and prepared the the pieces of gear. The length of gear for the subjects. rope used during simul-climbing varies but is often between 15 and Donny tied in one rope and began 30m. In most cases the climbing his rappel over and into the team maintains multiple pieces of darkness holding on to the rope protection between them to until he was able to throw the prevent a system failure if one of rope without the wind tangling it the pieces was to fail. all up. I waited to hear from The route down. Photo by Les Walker Donny as he made his way to Donny made quick time of the "Lunch Ledge", which was just Donny untangled the subjects first half of the climb. There were above the subjects. Donny gear and the mess that led to spots that would normally be very radioed that he was in voice and them being stranded in the first easy to climb but with all of our visual contact. place, and got one of them tied-in gear it turned what would short on the rope. Donny gave me normally be a 5.4 climb into Donny advised me he was all the OK to start hauling the first something a little harder. I anchored in down there and it climber up. The first climber reached Donny at Pine Tree was OK for me to start my rappel. made it up fine and anchored in Ledge where he had set up a fast It was not an easy rappel due to behind me. belay in case I needed it. I took the wind at the top. It wanted to the lead from there up to the push you in the opposite direction Donny tied in the other climber summit, which was another 200 of where you needed to go, but as and once again the haul up the feet above. I made it further over the ledge crack began. The second climber the wind backed off and it was also made it up fine, anchored in, smooth going. I stopped and set and took a seat next to his in a directional anchor to help partner behind me. Donny then guide the ropes the way we made his way up to the ledge. wanted them to go for the ascent. While he worked on getting the As I reached Donny he had belay anchors cleaned up, I went already started the anchor up our top rope and traversed system to rappel to where the over to the top of the subjects two subjects were stranded. rope that they had abandoned, which was tied to a tree about 50 Donny made quick work of that feet to our south. I gathered the The Path of Ascent to the Subjects. and he nimbly rappelled down to rope and made my way back to Photo by Les Walker the subjects and radioed back Lunch Ledge to hand off their that they were all in good health rope. I then climbed my way to and ready to "get off this rock"! the top to set up the long belay As Donny and I both reached the Donny then proceeded to get the for the subjects. summit we were met in the face subjects prepared for the climb by 30 mph winds and very cold back up as I set up the belay Donny was preparing the subjects temperatures. The climb up The system to haul them up the short for the long climb up by giving Trough had been protected from 50-foot crack to what we call encouraging guidance and the wind, so this was a real Lunch Ledge. instructions as to how to pass the surprise to us. We wasted no time directional anchor we had placed. to in getting over to the top of the I topped out into 30 M.P.H. winds RMRU NEWSLETTER 13 again, and switched over to my ledges and a few trees to the trail phone in to the rescue line. Ten belay system to bring these boys that would eventually lead us minutes later I am en route to the up. Donny had set up a bomb- back to the main trail. We meet Sheriff's Aviation Hanger at Ryan- proof anchor and it was going to up with Lee and Helene and they Hemet Airfield. be needed; the route that we helped share the weight of our were bringing the boys up was gear and lead the way down the I learn additional details about well beyond their ability to climb, steep trail back to Humber Park the mission while I am driving. so it was going to be more of a and Base. It was great when RMRU has been asked to assist in haul then a belay. entering the parking lot with the the hoist rescue of five people two subjects to see six waiting stuck in the shrubbery in the hills Donny tied in the first guy and team members who were all above Tin Mine Canyon Trail. gave me the OK to start pulling ready to help if needed. Their story, as I later learn, is that him up. The wind was so strong of many of our rescues in this that I could not hear what was area: people find out about an informal series of plastic rope- going on 200 feet below me, so I had to rely on feeling the rope as lined game trails and mountain if I had a fish on the end and was bike trails above Tin Mine Canyon reeling it in. It was slow going as Road, follow one of many rabbit holes, and end up in a macabre each climber was in well over his head on this route and had to rely wonderland of impassible brush on the belay to make it up the and impossible terrain. This is hardest sections. But after 30 perhaps the fifth such callout to minutes of arm-stretching Tin Mine that I've been on in the pulling, both subjects were on top Les, the Subjects and Donny safely last twelve months, but usually back at base. Photo by Helene Lohr with me. I gave the word to we just have to hack our way through the bushes and walk the Donny that all were up and he was free to climb when he was RMRU team members present: Lee subjects out to safety. ready. Arnson, Paul Caraher, Pete Carlson, Donny Goetz, Glenn Henderson, Ralph I arrive at the airport. The Hoetger, Helene Lohr, Dana Potts, Les helicopter is resting on its Donny made it up the route in Walker, and Gwenda Yates. wheeled trailer, and the familiar minutes with no help from me mug of RMRU member Les needed. He nearly ran up that Walker is there to greet me. Even section as I pulled the rope though we had received through my belay devices as fast helicopter training as a team a as I could. Donny crested over the Tin Mine Canyon Trail lip with his headlight blazing and month ago, Les expertly reviews a huge smile on his face! "Let's January 18, 2013 the application of the screamer get off this rock," he said and Cleveland National Forest suit with me. directed the subjects to help us by Alan Lovegreen Les has seen his share of gather up our ropes while Donny unicorns. and I pulled our anchors. Helicopter hoists are one of the more exciting parts of mountain We're soon airborne, cutting We radioed Base with the good rescue. For many people on our across the city lights between news that all were on top, but the team they are the unicorns of Hemet and Corona. As we near mission was still not over. The callouts - rare creatures that one the Cleveland National Forest we descent down the back side of may wait decades to glimpse, so can see the lights of the subject's Tahquitz is as tricky as some of when Gwenda sends the callout cell phones dotting the dim the climbing routes. We made our text for a helicopter hoist, mid- contours of the hill. The pilot ways through the maze of cracks, evening in mid-January, I jump to makes a landing zone, or LZ, out RMRU NEWSLETTER 14 of a graded subplot adjacent to connecting rings. Two will go up subject's backpacks slung across the trailhead, and dust billows out with each run, and I will go out my chest. Les helps her out of the from the rotor wash as we with the last subject on the third helicopter back at the LZ and the descend. Les jumps out. He will and last pass. pilot shuts down the engine. unpack each subject upon the Mission accomplished. aircraft's return. Our technical I package up the first two subjects into their suits, hook the flight officer, or TFO, moves the hoist system into place and hooks screamer suit bag to the first subject, and then motion to the himself to the outside of the “ As we near the Cleveland aircraft. TFO and pilot that we're prepared to hoist. The Star-9 Helicopter National Forest we can see moves to hover over us, lowers the lights of the subject's

the hook to me, and waits for my cell phones dotting the “Helicopter hoists are one sign. I hook in the screamer suit, dim contours of the hill.” triple check all of the of the more exciting parts RMRU RESCUER ALAN LOVEGREEN connections, and tap my helmet of mountain rescue. For with exaggerated movements,

many people on our team the sign that the subject is safe to they are the unicorns of hoist. And up he goes. The hook We still have the return flight, our callouts - rare creatures returns, and I repeat the process. informal debriefing with the pilot that one may wait decades Two down, three to go. and TFO, and a greasy post- mission meal at the local sports to glimpse.” The helicopter heads back over to restaurant, where Les and I will the LZ, and touches down long RMRU RESCUER ALAN LOVEGREEN chat about the operation. Not a enough for Les to extract both bad way to spend a Friday night. subjects. I know that Les is removing their screamer suits and RMRU team members present: Alan We lift back off and hover over checking the subject's condition. Lovegreen and Les Walker. the hillside that is less than a mile While we wait, I pass out water from the LZ. I hook my climbing and snack food to the remaining harness to the cable and step out three, and we chat about what onto the landing skid. The TFO had gone wrong with their and I nod, and down I go. I lose excursion. In a few minutes the sight of the group as I am lowered helicopter returns, drops me and Search-Rescue Fallen 80 into the brush. the duffle bag with the two Year Old Man screamer suits, and in minutes I It takes me a minute to get my April 24, 2013 am sending two more into the orientation back and begin Ortega Highway Candy Store inky ether. fighting my way through the by Mark Houston Chinquapin. I'm not surprised to Now we wait again. The subject find out that the huddling group I've saved for last is the one that Wednesday night we were called of five is, like most we rescue talked her friends and family out for a lost hiker off the Ortega above Tin Mine Canyon, dressed members into their adventure in highway. A group of friends went in casual clothing ill-suited to the pursuit of plastic ropes. She is on a hike together. The youngest conditions. They are cold but embarrassed, and I think back to of the group was 74 and the unhurt, and I talk them through all of the times I've been oldest was in his 80s. They what will happen next. We will disoriented in a mountainous planned a hike to the Simmons use screamer suits to extract area: too many to count. When Summit. them. A screamer suit is worn like the helicopter returns I send her an oversize vest with steel up and follow with one of the RMRU NEWSLETTER 15 The last half mile to the summit route ahead of us, but at least we The next morning was still can be very steep and the group knew where he was. overcast, so with no guarantee of had thinned out with one of the a helicopter, we began our long friends making it to the summit For the next hour we swam our trip back. By a stroke of luck, we before the rest. After waiting way through Manzanita trees were convinced to bring a some time for the rest of the periodically calling out to the machete before leaving base. group to summit, he decided to subject and asking him to shine This made a huge difference. Paul head back. On his way back he the light from his walky-talky to spent the whole time chopping a took the wrong path, which lead help us stay on track. We reached path through the trees while I dug to him getting engulfed in him and found him more beaten makeshift steps in the loose Manzanita trees and completely up than we had expected, yet in ground. Every 15 feet or so, we losing his way. The rest of the good spirits. would stop and push/pull the group made it to the top and subject to another resting spot. began to call out. Locating the Finally the weather broke, and we missing man by voice, they got word that the helicopter was realized no one from their group on their way. We kept climbing had the ability to descend to help until we reached a good spot for him and the lost man was too the helicopter to pick us up. exhausted to make his way back up. The helicopter lowered the screamer suit and we had the They all agreed the best course subject out within minutes. A few of action was to have the lost more minutes, and they were man stay where he was and to get back to pick us up. AMR checked help. They left a metal pole they the subject out and decided to found pointing in the direction of bring him to the hospital to make their friend’s voice and returned. sure he was okay. The last update we received was from his son, When we meet them at the candy saying his dad was back to his old shop, they were very helpful, self and hiking again--this time, giving us exact location of where however, he plans to stay on the he had left the trail, what he had trail. with him and offered whatever Mark with subject laying in green other help they could provide. sleeping bag for warmth RMRU team members present: Paul Photo by Paul Caraher Caraher, Glenn Henderson, Mark Paul and I started our hike at 10 Houston, Roger May, and Gwenda Yates. P.M. The weather threatened rain He had fallen at some point and but it did not come, which was a chipped a tooth and, either from mixed blessing--this meant the the fall or just the climb through subject would not be stuck out in the trees, cut his hands up and the rain but on the other hand, torn his pants. Rescue Tahquitz Rock the overcast conditions made it I dressed his hands as best we impossible for the helicopter to April 27, 2013 could and Paul lent him some pull him out. When we reached Idyllwild gloves. We used a pair of personal the summit, we found the pole rain pants to keep him warm. He and began calling out his name in by Lee Arnson & Helene Lohr had plenty of water with him so the direction it pointed. To our we warmed up some cocoa and RMRU has just been called out for surprise, that is exactly where he food. He was too exhausted to a helicopter rescue on Tahquitz was. He had stayed where they move so we made camp. rock. I swing my truck into place had left him. We still had a tough below the Helipad at Keenwild RMRU NEWSLETTER 16 and breathe a sigh of relief as I with our call captains and ground clipped into the helicopter with a see Les, one of our most capable crews, while Ralph Hoetger and bird's eye view of the pine Technical Rock Rescuers, already Helene Lohr will work base at covered ravines rushing by below. deep in conversation with the Humber Park.

Technical Flight Officer (TFO) of the Sheriffs Aviation Unit. “Oh man, what am I A rock climber has taken a serious After the tutorial I grab my 40 foot plus fall onto a small backpack. Les and I do a quick getting myself into this ledge about 300 feet up from the cross check of gear. We'll be time?” base of the rock. He was initially going in loaded for bear, backpacks bulging with more RMRU RESCUER LEE ARNSON unconscious and is now reporting than 60 lbs. equipment. We are severe head, neck and chest pain. Cal-Fire flew in to assess, and fully geared to be in and out rightly deemed the situation too within the hour, or to stay for the The bird turns to the North. I see dangerous to approach with a next 2 days. Between us we have Tahquitz Rock lit by the larger helicopter and no high hundreds of feet of rope in case afternoon sun ahead of us. 'Oh angle rock experience. The we need to do a full technical man, what am I getting myself decision was made to call in lower. into this time?' RMRU and the Riverside Sheriff As a rescuer you never really Aviation Unit, but to use CDF's know what lies ahead. All you litter and packaging system. “ The wind pouring over know is that somebody is hurt, This will be the first time ever that the ridgeline and the rotor and it's your job to help them. As we are sharing gear with CDF. Les wash against the rock the rock looms in front of us, I and I kneel down with their crew cause unpredictable have a gut feeling that all our to receive a hands-on tutorial on conditions that even the years of experience are going to come to a head rig their litter system. I'm impressed best pilot can't predict.” with its straightforwardness. The ht now. We fly up near the strapping system is efficient and RMRU RESCUER LEE ARNSON massive face of the rock. Kevin, will be an asset in the conditions our pilot, circles the helicopter, we're expecting on the rock. They searching the surface of the rock supply us with a c-collar and We board the A-star with our for our subject. additional medical supplies packs already strapped on and tailored to deal with the expected good to go. The back seats have Manny points him out, wedged trauma from our subject's fall. been removed to make room for on a tiny ledge several hundred the litter. I reach behind me for feet up. His climbing partner

the end of the seat belt waves her arms in wide arcs at us. Kevin puts us into a hover that “ I have a gut feeling that protruding from the deck. As it clicks together I give the TFO seems impossibly close, blades all our years of experience thumbs up, ready to go. Within spinning a mere 20 feet off of the are going to come to a moments we're surging into the rock. The courage and skill it head right now.” air. takes to fly a mission like this are incredible. The wind pouring over RMRU RESCUER LEE ARNSON With our huge packs and rescue the ridgeline and the rotor wash gear Les and I are wedged into against the rock cause the small cabin like sardines. unpredictable conditions that RMRU Rescuer Craig Wills is on Manny, our TFO balances himself even the best pilot can't predict. scene to serve as communication outside on the skid, securely RMRU NEWSLETTER 17 stand, and pivot to face the TFO, pounds, but I feel strangely calm my hand gripping his chest inside. Flying like a bird, I see carabiner for support. Idyllwild spread surreally out far below me. On the tail end of each Now the only thing keeping me upswing I powerlessly watch as from falling hundreds of feet is the blades get closer and closer. the connection of the hoist hook to one locking carabiner on my Manny quickly recognizes the risk belay loop. and sets to work lowering the hoist at the apex of each swing to stop my upward momentum. Finally quieting my swing, he “ Suddenly the world jerks, hoists me back up into helicopter. sways and drops. The rock As I climb back into the helicopter swings away from my view Manny yells over the thrum of the and I'm flying backward.” blades to see if I'm alright, I give Lee being lowered in as Les (orange him the thumbs up to let him shirt) waits in tree clump on ledge. RMRU RESCUER LEE ARNSON Photo by Cid Castillo know I'm OK and good to go for another attempt. Les clips into the hoist and scoots past me towards the open door. Kevin makes another couple of I take a slow deep breath, look at Kevin holds position, while passes to get a feel for the wind Manny and nod. I drop smoothly Manny lowers Les into a bushy and then sets the helicopter into a into the open air, the rotor wash scrub oak sprouting precariously hover again. Out the door I go. reflecting back from the rock and out of the ledge. Les uses its buffeting my body. My full pack is branches to pull himself into a constant heavy pressure on my relative safety and quickly shoulders pulling me backward. I anchors himself in. As soon as Les tighten my grip on the cable to unclips from the hoist, Kevin pulls “After several seconds of keep myself upright. The ledge the helicopter off to a safe lowering, the subject approaches quickly and I can see distance. Les below me in the branches, blurts out; "I'm losing Underneath the thick overgrowth leaning forward, ready to clip me blood pressure, I'm going I can just make out Les greeting in to our safety line. to faint...” the subject and his wife. He Suddenly the world jerks, sways RMRU RESCUER LEE ARNSON immediately secures them safely and drops. The rock swings away to the face of the rock and then from my view and I'm flying sets anchors for me. He looks up backward, wind whistling in my and waves to the copter to signal This time the hoist goes smoothly ears and boulders and pines that he's ready for me to be and before I know it I'm landing rushing past below my feet. A lowered. deep inside the scrub brush. Les drastic change in the wind has hit clips me into the safety line right We carefully approach the face of the helicopter, radically cutting away. I release the hoist and the the rock again. Manny hands me its lifting power. The pilot's only helicopter pulls away. Once we the hoist hook. I clip it into my choice is to peel away from the are safely situated I radio in to harness and double check that rock or risk crashing into its face. confirm we are both on the rock my carabiner is locked, before I His quick action and skillful flying and secured. The helicopter undo my seat belt and scoot have saved us, but now I'm in a edges in again to lower the CDF forward across the floor. I sit on wild pendulum underneath the litter and we lean out from our the edge, put my feet on the skid, copter on the hoist line. My heart anchors to grab it as it spins in the RMRU NEWSLETTER 18 and buckles to secure him for the Les radios in to call off the bird. hoist. Without saying anything to each other, we know this is going to be We have him strapped in, but a very tricky maneuver to get this now have to find a way to bring guy off this rock. Les now has the the hoist hook far enough in to weight of the foot end of the litter attach to the litter. The helicopter balancing on his knee, while I am won't be able to get close enough holding down the head end; all to the rock to lower it directly to the while we are both at the end us, besides; we can't hoist the of our anchors hanging on for litter through the thick shrub dear life. engulfing the ledge. We need to get him out in the open. We'll The subject regains have to slide the litter down off consciousness and we tell him the ledge onto the face of the this is going to be one wild ride getting on board the helicopter, and we feel our next attempt will “ The rotor wash is so be successful. Les and I look at each other, and because of intense it feels like you are friendship and training we know Les prepping to secure Lee as he is just going to be blown we can pull this rescue off safely. lowered onto the ledge. Photo by Subject’s wife & Climbing Partner right off the face of the rock and never heard from wind. We unclip it and secure it to again.” our line. With a wave and a nod RMRU RESCUER LEE ARNSON Star-9 peels away, heading back to Keenwild to conserve fuel until rock so that the hoist can reach we call them for pickup. We make the spider attached to the litter. our way down onto the belay ledge, the area about size of large coffee table, with vertical rock on all sides and a sheer 300 foot drop Les calls in to the helicopter to off. stand by for a hoist. We set up a Les and Lee packaging the Subject lower, with the amazingly calm into the litter. Photo by Subject’s wife Les briefly introduces me to and collected wife acting as & Climbing Partner subject and his wife. We belay. As we slide him off the immediately begin packaging him We call for the bird to come back, edge of the sheer drop off the into the litter. It's difficult work. and as it goes into a hover, Manny litter tilts slowly forwards. The The litter takes up the floor of the starts to lower the hoist cable, subject's feet go down, and his ledge. We are left perched on the Les and I are trying our best to head tilts up. After several edge of a sheer drop, leaning into keep the litter as level as possible, seconds of lowering, the subject our anchors while working to while at the same time we are blurts out; "I'm losing blood strap him in. Despite the warmth both extending our arms as far pressure, I'm going to faint..." His of the day the subject is shivering out as possible to catch the hoist face goes slack. Les and I make uncontrollably, a potential sign of hook. The rotor wash is so intense eye contact. Oh man. We dangerous hypovolemic shock. I at this point it feels like you are immediately start to raise the give him my coat before we just going to be blown right off litter back up. tighten the 3 layers of webbing the face of the rock and never heard from again. RMRU NEWSLETTER 19 Les does this amazing move while Assisting agencies: Riverside County As if my past was my warranty, as the litter is still balanced on his Sheriffs Department (Pilot Kevin Boss if I were entitled to safety, I knee and somehow he is able to and TFO Manny Romero, without optimized my climbing to that, to reach out and grab the hook, I whom this rescue would not have “it won’t happen to me.” I wasn’t have the spider in my hand and gone down in this fashion) and Cal- there 100% on Fingergrip. I didn’t Fire. Thank you! Les automatically clips into it. The visualize a few moves ahead. I litter is now safely clipped to didn’t check how I executed helicopter, but we need to unclip them. it from our system so it can be raised up. The Subject’s Account.

NOTE: The following excerpt There is no slack- our belay is was written by the subject of “ Half an hour passed at maxed. Every time we rise to get the previous rescue about his the margins of slack the heavy weight of the experience: litter plus subject slides forward consciousness, hours and takes up the excess. In order Last Saturday, April 27th, around shaking in shock.” to get the slack we need to free 1:30 PM I fell on Tahquitz rock RESCUE SUBJECT the litter we need precise timing. above Idyllwild in South California, on a route called Everything happens in quick Fingergrip, the 5.8 slab/dihedral succession. Les yells for slack over pitch above the “Jungle Ledge”, a This is how the fall felt: the pelting roar of the rotor wash, very easy climb for me. I was a the subject's wife gives us rope; hand’s reach from the bolted My left foot slipped, not a Les unclips the litter while giving anchor when I slipped. I was problem. Then - with increasing the helicopter the hand signal for injured in the fall and quite interest - I looked at my hands as a raise. The litter lifts and swings helpless after it. I had to be they pulled from the rock, too. I smoothly out and up away from rescued. was suspended and surprised in the rock. I let out a long sigh and This was my first climbing injury. the thin air like a cartoon realize I've been holding my character for that one moment breath. What a rush! I’ve been a climber since the high school days in the late 70’s. I and it felt like this is how it’s climbed around the world alpine, going to stay. Plenty of time to Star-9 disappears over the ask myself how many times have I forested ridge into the direction trad and sport, at all elevations on rock, ice and snow. My pastime corrected an imperfect move just of the Keenwild helipad to a bit, without a glitch. I thought transfer our subject to Mercy Air. used to be soloing 300 meter faces in the 5.9-10 range. this part of my character. Before it even seems possible the helicopter is hovering over us Then the slow motion kicked in: I again for a pickup. One by one we gradually peeled off. Lost contact are hoisted back to safety. I smile As if my past was my with the rock. Took the rope to and Les slaps me on the shoulder, warranty, as if I were keep it up. Looked down the slab "Good job buddy!" We grin at entitled to safety, I to see the path I was to pass each other. It's time to head back inevitably. Checked the last to La Casita for a celebration with optimized my climbing to that, to “it won’t happen protection. The orange Alien was our team and some retelling of an well wedged in the crack below to me.” incredible experience. me. 30 feet below me. RESCUE SUBJECT RMRU team members present: Lee For I’d decided to runout a 5.8 Arnson, Ralph Hoetger, Helene Lohr, Les Walker, and Craig Wills. and take a risk of a 60-70 foot fall, RMRU NEWSLETTER 20 not a matter of great concern or I was rushed into the Riverside invincibility - I chose to optimize even choice in many harder hospital where they suspected for that, rather than safety. climbs, but this time - was I lazy? broken hip, ribs, fingers, neck and Cocky? Feeling invincible? I brain hemorrhage. Quite a list, so Now it will be interesting to see remembered talking to myself they kept me. The kind hospital how will I deal with and optimize during the last 30 feet: don’t personnel dismissed one all the runouts where the first fiddle with the nuts, your smallest suspicion after the other, until on ascenders left potentials for truly cam is not small enough, it’s easy Sunday afternoon I was cleared to long falls. enough and you’re almost there. go home. The fall truly spared me - I was just bruised like hell. Thank you for all your good What bothered me now was the thoughts. Happy climbing! And lack of a safe plan for this long, We’ll never know what happened obligatory: climb safe. non-vertical slab fall. I hate doing in those 2-3 seconds it took me to things without a plan. fall. I was knocked out, Kathryn was breaking the fall and No whistle of wind picked up with watching the rope. It seems speed, no hit, no nothing. I just plausible that the rope tightened “ I was rushed into the woke up in terrible pain hanging and pulled me backwards into the Riverside hospital where by a screaming rib-cage a few dihedral where I hit my right side they suspected broken hip, feet above the belay stand. and my head. ribs, fingers, neck and Kathryn remembers me moaning brain hemorrhage.” like an animal. I remember Lessons learned? begging her to be lowered to the RESCUE SUBJECT I felt entitled to climb this climb ledge to relieve the suffering. with ease. This was based on things I climbed in the past. Yet I Half an hour passed at the was supposed to earn it. We earn margins of consciousness, hours each climb, again and again. The shaking in shock. Kathryn climbs go through their subtle hovered over me, profoundly changes, get dirty, wet, holds get soothing and calm. Lei too, a solo lose and break, and I’m certainly climber who came to help and not the same from day to day. called the rescuers. Time and pain were one and the same. The sky I should have been focused, and if was a blue lid over it. Then two not, be frank about it. Take a rest, shadows lowered from this lid, take a whole day. from a big bird cutting its blades into the cliff. One said, I’m Les - Climbing takes constant he’s Lee. They strapped me optimization. (Body positions, carefully into a gurney, with power output, rest, protection inhuman effort got me into a placement, time, weather position to be hauled up to the assessment, steering clear of bird. falling rock/snow/ice, positions of

Kathryn operated the GriGri. I the belay stations and overnight was utterly helpless. Full of camps, things you carry, etc.) gratitude. Thank you Les and Lee, What was I optimizing for when I thank you Kathryn and Lei, thank you pilot and copilot. placed no gear for 30 feet? I was sure I wouldn’t fall. Hubris, RMRU NEWSLETTER 21 RMRU Technical welcomes and start gathering our We learn to check the quality of team technical rock gear to start the rock, watching for potential Rock Training training. crumbling or flaking. Rock By Helene Lohr crystals that break off or flaking Pete Carlson gives a brief intro sections can allow the anchor to "Make sure to bring your rescue and then we break off into shift and put you at serious risk of gear". Lee says on the phone groups. Donny peels off to the the piece failing. Friday night- I've called him to ask southwest with those who want if I can borrow his ascenders for the to practice setting anchors. Pete team training tomorrow. "Really? collects the more advanced You think I'll need it?", I say. technical crew to dive immediately into setting up raises Saturday, 7:30 am. My wheels and lowers for our litter system kick up gravel along a dirt road off of a steep rock wall to the deep in Indian Cove campground. southeast. The sun rises behind me, painting the faces of the rock a golden red, promising a warm day ahead. Dust follows the 4Runner up the road towards our team “ Rock crystals that break campsites. The familiar RMRU off or flaking sections can Rescue Trucks and a scattering of allow the anchor to shift Donny reviews the use and proper orange shirts says I've arrived. placement of cams. Photo by Helene Lohr and put you at serious risk Les Walker, Alan Lovegreen, of the piece failing.”

Donny Goetz and a few other RMRU ROCK TRAINING team members are already The strength and angle of working on personal skills high up placement are critical. Even on the steep rock walls though anchors have flexible I'm new to technical rock so I surrounding the campsites. More stems, their angle to the fall line head off to practice anchors. cars pull in. We exchange warm (the angle at which you are Donny thoroughly reviews the placing the most weight/force) is use of cams, hexes and nuts. important. If you place the piece

too far off angle the torque can How do you evaluate the rock for cause the piece to rotate, 'walk', the most secure placement? and potentially pop out of Donny runs us through different position. Just in case you were scenarios, covering the possible wondering, this is not good. pros and cons. Place the anchor in

a crack that flares outwards Donny shows us how to assess towards the direction of pull and placement of multiple cams in the piece will be at risk of walking order to maximize the strength of and yanking free. A crack with the system. Once again the angle parallel, or better yet, walls that is key. A wide angle running from come together along the the anchors to their point of direction of pull will yield a attachment weakens the entire bomber hold. Alan and Mark Prep for raises and system. Donny explains how

lowers. Photo by Helene Lohr lengthening the runners along the

fall line can create a tighter angle

RMRU NEWSLETTER 22 and also help equalize the load for the high country out of the tram I waiting rescue crew, I can't help a stronger system. When we are very well may need the crampons but notice that the he doesn't low on runners, placing the cams and ice axe nestled deep in my seem well prepared for a long closer together can yield the gear closet. Dang. One more backpacking trip. He is wearing a same effect. lesson learned. dusty cotton Tshirt and cotton pants. His backpack is old and The team peels off one by one from a distance doesn't appear to and makes an informal caravan have a sturdy waist strap to heading towards Mt. San Jacinto. properly distribute the load. An I fall into line behind Paul Caraher old Walmart style sleeping bag and Matt Jordan on the highway. and mattress are rolled up Traffic that was tolerable this together on top to form a bedroll. morning now seems to creep as we cruise along behind cars I don't get a chance to talk to the forming a slow moving roadblock. subject, but it's pretty likely he Midway through the drive a cell didn't have the necessary gear for Donny guides Team member in phone chain carries the news to the mountain. Mt San Jacinto is proper cam placement. Photo by the team- our base has changed the first serious non-desert Helene Lohr to Whitewater. challenge along the route of the PCT. A lot of thru-hikers gravely I listen intently. Not only my own Just a few minutes after we pull underestimate the conditions. life, but those of my teammates into base we get the news. We've already had a rash of and subjects will be at risk if I get Aviation has scooped up the heads-ups and rescues due to ill this wrong later. The weight of "disoriented PCT hiker" from high prepared PCTers this season. several rescuers, their heavy team on Fuller Ridge and is already en gear, full rescue backpacks, a route to our location. Bewildered The "nearly a rescue" has eaten sturdy stokes litter and a subject grins are passed around. 20+ hours of our time. When we get will all hang from our placement rescuers and no rescue! back to Joshua Tree our prime of these pieces. We split up to location for training has been practice, with Donny coming over taken by eager rock climbers. to critique our anchor placements After some time for lunch and and test their strength. personal skills Pete and Donny scout out a new location for litter The call comes in around 9:30 am. raises and lowers. The rock at the Team President Rob May comes new location is more over to let us know. "Collect your complicated, but we take on the gear and clear out. We've got a challenge and start setting up our rescue! Meet at the base of the anchors to get into litter raises tram. No other details yet". Glenn and lowers. and Gwenda head out first to see if they can get more info, while The DG (decomposing granite) the rest of the team packs up the Aviation lands with a “disoriented rock makes setting anchors technical gear and sorts it into the PCT hiker”. Photo by Helene Lohr challenging. Obvious cracks end truck. up being too unstable to rely on. We hear the "thup thup" of the Despite the crumbling cracks we copter within minutes. Star 9 sets Dang it, Lee was right! I start manage to securely place a down a few hundred feet away. mentally berating myself for selection of cams and hexes. We As Tony and Juvien from RSO bringing everything but my winter tie in our red and blue runners Aviation escort the subject to the gear. If this turns into a mission in and equalize them, distributing RMRU NEWSLETTER 23 the weight leading toward the fall the head tilted slightly down to By the end of the day we are all line where we will tie in the litter. increase blood flow to the brain. If hot, dusty and in need of a comfy we suspect a traumatic brain camp chair and a cold beverage. I volunteer as the first Litter injury we tilt the litter slightly up The moon rises to the east as we to reduce swelling and hopefully eat, relax and stare into the buy them some more time. campfire. It's time for stories, laughter and pranks on those who I call out the orders loudly, "down go to bed early. Definitely a day slow..." Holding the litter with both arms I lean back with my full weight and let the strength of my legs, the tension of the rope and the team above do most of the work. We hit a tricky spot along Helene as litter attendant, waiting the route that threatens to throw for her “subject “. Photo by Chad the litter off kilter. "Stop!" I look Marler back over my shoulder, decide to Attendant. With experienced head for the rocks to my left and guidance from the senior readjust my grip. Chad relays the members I clip into the litter in orders to the rope team at the the middle and guide it down the top. Good communication is key. face of the rock, using the weight Down we go. The moon rises over Joshua Tree as of my body and leg strength to the team relaxes around the guide it over the uneven rocks. Guiding the litter back up is good campfire. Photo by Helene Lohr practice in how to work with the The litter must be held as level as litter system. With Kelly securely well spent, despite the snag of possible in order to not endanger strapped in as my “subject” I use the "nearly a rescue" incident of the Prussik knots to adjust the the morning. angle of the litter and keep her level as we ascend the uneven rock faces. I reach up and pull my line to the litter, lengthening it in order to give my legs more

purchase as we head back up. "up, slow!"

At the top I unhook and climb

into the recently vacated litter for my turn as subject as Matt Jordan takes the lead as Litter Attendant. Mike George and The team uses a 3-1 to raise the Frank Snider follow us up, while litter. Photo by Chad Marler the rest of the team take turns

running the rope system and the subject. The Litter Attendant trying out some of our expensive not only guides the litter, but new team gear. must keep constant tabs on the condition of the subject. If they are in shock it's important to keep RMRU NEWSLETTER

How YOU can help: become a Sustaining Member

DONATION Even if you can’t join us in the Your generous donations last year helped field, your contribution can help RMRU buy thousands of dollars worth of critical team rescue gear. make a vital difference to our mission to save lives. DONATIONS

To make a donation via RMRU is a completely volunteer search and PAYPAL send contribution to: rescue team that covers Riverside County and assists other teams with search and info@rmru rescue efforts in other counties and states. Thank You! Each member purchases their own equipment and takes time off work, without compensation, to participate in OR search and rescue missions. Mail check to: Team equipment is purchased from contributions from the community. We are Riverside Mountain Rescue a non-profit organization and are funded by donations from people like you. Your Unit donations allow us to keep our training and 43950 Acacia Avenue team gear updated and help us to save lives. Hemet, CA 92544

SUSTAINING MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION Your Donation is deductible from both your state and Federal taxes

RMRU tax ID number for Not-for-Profit status 95-2497048

Name ______Address ______City ______State ______Zip ______

Membership Types: Please send your donation to: o Benefactor Club $1000+ Riverside Mountain Rescue Unit o Summit Club $500 43950 Acacia Street o Patron Club $200 Hemet, California 92544 o Century Club $100 o Supporting Club $25 or at: www.rmru.org

RMRU NEWSLETTER OUR SUSTAINING MEMBERS

Benefactor Club $1000+ Dr. and Mrs. John Wilson Ÿ Stater Brothers Charities Ÿ Sketchers Foundation Ÿ Katherine Nixon Ÿ Gina M. Allen Ÿ Brian Carrico Ÿ Lucas Oil Products Ÿ Rosemary Kraft Ÿ Kathy Nixon Ÿ Scott Bros Dairy Farm

Summit Club $500+ Daryl V. Dichek & Kenneth L. Smith Ÿ Gerhard & Marie Befeld Ÿ Brad and Sally Scott Ÿ Mr. and Mrs. Stephen Shibley Ÿ Norine E May Biehl Ÿ Marvin Matsumoto

Patron Club $200+ Fern District- snow pack survey Ÿ Ming Cao Ÿ Norine E. May Ÿ Pete Carlson Ÿ Hemet Lions Club Ÿ Valerie Cottingham Ÿ Theodore Young Ÿ Valley Water Ÿ Theodore Young Ÿ Minh Soi

Century Club $100+ Idyllwild Water District Ÿ Pine Cove Water Ÿ Paul Caraher Ÿ April Chandler- Langford Ÿ Mountain High Escrow Ÿ Ben Gonzalez Ÿ Ellen Coleman Ÿ Stephen Bryant Ÿ Christopher and Gigi Kramer Ÿ Dr. Carol Lovatt Ÿ Erin Swinfard Ÿ Peter & Patricia Gillies Ÿ James Collins Ÿ James Taylor Ÿ K.M. & M. O. Brass Ÿ Ray and Carol George Ÿ Rotary Anns Ÿ Ben Gonzales Ÿ Ellen Coleman Al and Nancy Rabin Ÿ Lake Hemet MWD Ÿ Donna Hryshchyshyn Ÿ Bill and Melody Blaschko Ÿ Steve Hoisch Ÿ Bernard Lipman Ÿ Nancy Carter

Supporting Club $25+ Bill and Juanita Starmer Ÿ Benjamin Crowell Ÿ Gretchen Angelo Ÿ Marydoris Powers Ÿ Craig and Janice Coopersmith Ÿ Erica Sutch Ÿ John and Eleanor Giancola Ÿ Dora Dillman Ÿ Huy Nguyen Ÿ Robert De Wolf Ÿ Thomas Kaczmarek Ÿ Ben Crowell Ÿ Samuel Prum Ÿ Robert Singer

ThanksYou