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Complete Lots of Get the FREE Grapevine apps Reykjavík Listings cool events Appy Hour and Craving + Available on the App store and on Android Market. The Reykjavík Grapevine The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 2 Issue 17 — 2014

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Editor In Chief: We Care A Lot! Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] Editor: Anna Andersen / [email protected] TRACK Journalist: John Rogers / [email protected] Journalist & Listings editor Tómas Gabríel Benjamin / [email protected] Editorial: OF THE +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] +354 40 3610 ISSUE Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Kælan Mikla Contributing Writers: Ekkert nema ég Björn Teitsson Davíð Roach Grayson Del Faro SNARL 4 Haukur Már Helgason Download the FREE track at www.grapevine.is Jón Yngvi Jóhannsson Kári Tulinius Lemúrinn With its loud and gnarly thumping bass, Óli Dóri Nathan Hall "Ekkert nema ég" starts off filthy great. Ac- Paul Fontaine cording to the band, the song’s lyrics are all Quentin Bates Ragnar Egilsson from a long text message drummer Sólveig Rebecca Scott Lord Matthildur Kristjánsdóttir wrote her friend while drunk. Vocalist Laufey Soffía Þórsdót- Editorial Interns: Elín Rós / [email protected] Hey, check out the above photo. Who are those peo- community. They do this by reporting on it and re- tir renders the drunk-text beautifully, softly Melissa Coci / [email protected] ple? I’ll tell you: I’m in there, along with our designer flecting upon it, providing us with food for thought singing: "I will smoke the world / swallow Saskia Vallendar / [email protected] Tom Doyle / [email protected] Hrefna, along with our former interns Parker and Re- and fodder for conversation. its remains / so there will be nothing left Art Director: becca (currently visiting from abroad to do some writ- This is great! Active participation! Active conver- but me," before screaming at the top of her Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] Layout: ing), along with our current interns Tom and Saskia sation! What fun! lungs: "I am God!" Hrefna Sigurðardóttir and Elín and Melissa, along with our listings editor I love them all, and I love you, too. Hey, want to Meet Kælan Mikla, a trio of avant-garde Photographers: punks whose lyrics are poems (indeed, you Anna Domnick Gabríel, along with our journalist John, along with join in? Drop us a line! Atli Sigurðarson the ghost of what should’ve been (always lurking in may read about them in our poetry feature), GOLLI delivered on top of loud, quivering bass lines Hörður Sveinsson / www.hordursveinsson.com the background, him). Behind the camera is the lovely --- courtesy of Margrét Rósa Dóru- Harrysdót- Markús Már Efraím photographer Matt Eisman, who set up shop at our Matthew Eisman / www.mattheweisman.com tir. They capture Millenials’ melancholy, Spessi office over Airwaves, where he’ll be shooting some of As I write this, I can hear the band Hellvar blaring displaced sense of self, and narcissistic Sales Director: our favourite musicians (check out his images and SO through our office window, performing at the official Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] worldview down to a tee. They are dirty, they Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] MUCH MORE at www.grapevine.is!). Entirely miss- Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur off-venue (yup). It’s almost sev- are raw, and most importantly, they are fun! Óskar Freyr Pétursson / [email protected] Distribution manager: ing is our editor Anna, currently on sabbatical (miss en PM on Airwaves Thursday, and Reykjavík is brim- Their debut album hits the streets any day [email protected] u, Anna!). ming with energy, culture and enthusiasm. As soon as now, but this song comes from a Dr. Gunni Proofreader: Mark Asch The people in the above photo represent but a we send this off, I plan on heading off to drown myself curated compilation entitled ‘SNARL 4’, releases: small part of all the wonderful folks who strive night in all the good vibes, to fully immerse in all the music, which is filled with other exuberant bands [email protected] Submissions inquiries: and day and night (but never mornings, those are for good and bad, and perhaps hang out with some of our and is equally worth getting. [email protected] sleeping) to ensure that the magazine you are cur- lovely visitors. Head on over to www.grapevine.is if Subscription inquiries: you want to download this track and/or read +354 540 3605 / [email protected] rently reading can exist; that it looks nice, and that it It’s easy to lose hope when barraged by the abso- General inquiries: has images and words and ideas and thoughts about lutely WTF news that have been coming out of late our huge ass interview with Kælan Mikla [email protected] and/or watch our Post-Set Breakdown video Founders: who we are—we as a culture, and we as a people—who (you can get informed about a lot of them in this interview with the band. Enjoy! Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, we were and what we are becoming; what we’re doing, issue—I recommend going straight for page six). At Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, and why we might be doing it. such times, it’s important to keep an eye on the good Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, I’ll also tell you this: Although the people whose stuff (while remaining vigilant towards all the BS). At Valur Gunnarsson thoughts and words and images and comix and efforts their best, festivals like Iceland Airwaves can serve to The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly make up the Grapevine might have some very differ- remind us why living in Reykjavík can be so great. from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be repro- ent motivations for subjecting themselves to hours Keeping that spirit alive should be a priority. duced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around upon hours of hard, mostly thankless work, they all Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, share a passion for actively contributing to their/our Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres in the country. Comic | Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored (no articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

On the cover: Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir of the Meðgönguljóð collective Photo: Hörður Sveinsson (www.hordursveinsson.com) Make up: Flóra Buenano Thanks: Thank you, everyone! You are great! www.66north.com Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to: [email protected] the timeless warmth SOUR GRAPES AND STUFF of Iceland Most Awesome Letter of the Issue!

When I read the Reykjavík Grapevine’s nothing serious ever happened to me, I here. Some. It's just that those wrong are article Closed Doors, Empty Stomach, see those looks and I hear those words on always much up front. Desperate Measures about a Jewish- the streets. Being a Jew from Middle East,

www.arnartr.com Iraqi refugee seeking asylum in Iceland you certainly encounter a lot of hatred and Filip Simonfy after having hard time in Slovakia, a rath- intolerance. No wonder Adam had to flee er ambivalent feeling captured my mind. again, and he chose well. Unfortunately, Well, I am from Slovakia, and at first, I I am skeptical when thinking about his Dear Filip, felt a bit pissed off and offended about the experience here as persecution. However way how my country of origin was por- severe the situation was, it probably does thank you so much for your thought- trayed. But then I thought it might actu- not meet all the criteria. But I am not an ful and moving letter. ally be deserved. expert, and I wish the authorities decide I have a brief experience in working otherwise and allow Adam to stay. we understand your grief at how Slo- with asylum seekers in Slovakia and... During my year in Iceland, I met vakia is portrayed in the article (po- It is not a country where you would like many people from all over the world and tentially confused readers: the article to end up after having run for your life very little was known about Slovakia. At in question may be found online—you from a place that once had been your most, brief reference to Eurotrip or Hostel should read it. It is also rather moving home. That's no one's choice, it's just the is made, but that's it. And that's why I was and thoughtful). I am most certain first country beyond the border. Actu- disappointed when I read those words, that the article's author was not look- ally, Adam is a 'lucky' guy. Only about 10 when 'we' finally made it to the press. ing to disparage Slovakia in his writ- people are given asylum status every year Sure, the article of Benjamín Julian is very ing - he was merely attempting to re- here. The rest is sentenced to a choice of ei- tendentious and forcibly moving, and lay Mr. Adam's story and experiences ther spending years in refugee residences portrayal of Slovakia somehow distort- as best he could. Every country has while there is very little you are allowed/ ed. But there certainly is something true its negative aspects that when scru- able to do, or returning to their land where about it. It's true that 'we' should do more tinized are indeed shameful for its persecution and death awaits them. Well, for people who come to live here, who ask nationals—indeed, Iceland has a less and if you are fortunate enough, you are for help, who need to be protected. than stellar track record in its treat- allowed to stay in this country where bu- I quite like this country. There are ment of asylum seekers. reaus do nothing for your integration and many things that are worth it. But there people are even less open to accept you. also are many that are just appalling and Thank you for reading and for your Let's face it. I had a chance to spend a shameful. Adam's story represents one of input. year, a beautiful year, in Iceland. And even them. I want to apologize for all that neg- I, after having returned, realized how ligence and harm, Adam. I just want you Your Friends At The Grapevine much safer I felt on the island. Although to know that there also are good people

I loved Jeff Edwards hilarious piece "Acci- capitating him and FedExing the box to I'm traveling to Iceland next week for dental Iceland" - do you have an email ad- Gwyneth Paltrow? the first time and [gratefully] have found dress for him so I can tell him myself? To ensure Jeff Edwards does not get the tips I need to not come off as an Ugly beheaded, yet gets to enjoy your compli- American in Reykjavik by reading the Thanks, ments, we have forwarded your letter Grapevine. Laurie his way. Maybe he’ll get back to you? Thanks and best, Dear Laurie (if that IS your real name), LOL - I really didn't expect you to respond Laurie respond to my request—thanks! I love the We can’t really do that. What if you’re, Grapevine; so smart, funny, engaging and Dear Laurie, like, an deranged stalker from his past it has a great energy. Although it's referred Oh, pshaw. that’s been spending years looking for to as a "tourist" publication, I imagine your Love, Jeff Edwards and with the intent of de- local readership is very high. Your Friends At The Grapevine

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ICEWEAR REYKJAVÍK » Þingholtsstræti 2-4 » Tel: +354 555 7411 SHOPS REYKJAVÍK » Fákafen 9 » Tel: +354 555 7412 AKUREYRI » Hafnarstræti 106 » Tel: +354 460 7450 VÍK Í MÝRDAL » Austurvegur 20 » Tel: +354 555 7415 The ReykjavíkThe Reykjavík Grapevine Grapevine As Grapevine's FB friend, photographer Stuart Richardson, noted: "Only living 6Issue 1 Issue— 2011 17 — 2014 here allows one to appreciate the sweet sweet irony that even other government offices are lying to customs about their shipments being gifts." 6 Iceland | Up in arms REPORT

Who's Afraid Of November 9? Words by Haukur Már Helgason Collage by Hrefna Sigurðardóttir

After DV revealed that the police had just acquired some 150 submachine guns from Norway, Chief Superinten- dent Jón Bjartmarz—who refused to answer any of the newspaper’s questions—explained on RÚV’s Kastljós that they have possessed machine guns “ever since after the Gúttó-fight.”

“The Gúttó-fight” was a violent clash Thirty’, wielded by Osama Bin Laden’s “Renewal of equipment, police just decided to buy a four-wheel father figures do not. Last Saturday, between police and workers, who were henchmen, and in ‘The Dark Knight nothing else” drive instead of a rear-wheel drive.” an editorial by Davíð Oddsson clari- protesting announced wage reduc- Rises’, employed by Gotham’s SWAT The officer-cum-MP then took to the fied any possible ambiguity left by Jón tions, back in 1932. teams. In reality, armies use them, as The Prime Minister's assistant, podium in Alþingi to scold the media Bjartmarz’s somewhat ambiguous ut- The reference is as significant as well as special forces. Until recently, Jóhannes Þór Skúlason, was the first for reporting about the guns at all. Lit- terances. In case you’re new here, that they get. An Icelandic State Police you would not have seen such weapons government affiliate to comment on erally: “I want to tell some of the me- is Davíð Oddsson the former Indepen- authority, as opposed to a municipal in the hands of regular police officers. the story when it broke, mocking DV's dia and members of Alþingi that they dence Party Chair, Mayor, Prime Min- one, was established in the aftermath Two years ago, however, the Ferguson, journalists on Facebook: We didn't buy should be ashamed for their conduct. ister and Central Bank Manager, not of that fight, to ensure that authorities Missouri, police department report- these guns, he said, Norway gave them They talk of things they do not have to mention psalm poet, and now chief would henceforth have the upper hand edly bought four pieces. to us! As a present. His boss Sigmun- 100% knowledge about...” editor of daily newspaper Morgun- against demonstrators. This process And now they are here. A shipload. dur Davíð also quipped on Facebook: Another Independence Party MP blaðið. Defending the weaponization, was initiated and led by the Indepen- The shipment, still locked up in a “Some people should stop shooting noted that, contrary to what the Left he wrote: dence Party. During the sequence of warehouse, report- first and asking ques- thinks, “We don’t live in Disneyland.” “Only six years ago, a rioting mob protests in 2008-2009, it is known that edly consists of 250 Another Independence tions later, especially When the government and its herd attacked Iceland’s house of parliament Jón Bjartmarz did press for greater MP5s, of which 150 Party MP noted that, when it comes to ma- were done deriding journalists for and other public buildings... What use of force against the public. are to be disseminat- contrary to what the chine guns.” “not having their facts straight,” we would those frantic hordes have done The point that Jón wanted to make ed to police depart- The Interior learned that the facts they reported if they had reached their goal and bro- was that, since the police have been ments around Ice- Left thinks, “We don’t Minister and Foreign had, indeed, been straight: The Nor- ken into Alþingi? Perhaps most would equipped with lethal weapons for such land. Iceland’s SWAT live in Disneyland.” Minister both seem to wegian army confirmed DV’s original rather not think that through. ” He a long time, nothing is really changing. teams have had ac- agree that any public report; Iceland had purchased those concluded the passage with the words, The point that many people heard in- cess to such weapons discussion is unnec- weapons, for money. Iceland denied, given a whole paragraph for emphasis: stead was: these things are intended to before, but these will essary and have re- Norway insisted, and so back and forth "The Nation was then in grave danger." keep us down. be distributed to ev- mained mostly mute. until Norway provided the invoice as The will to protest was demon- ery precinct. Each The Interior Minister evidence. As if to provide comic relief, strated most recently last Monday, 330 machine guns at the precinct is free to remarked, “This is Icelandic toll authorities subsequently when police confirm that 4,500 pro- estimate how many a renewal of equip- sealed the warehouse where the guns testers gathered in front of Alþingi, top of the peace index they need, and to de- ment, nothing else.” are kept, until the Coast Guard either which, according to unofficial pro- cide if they will keep Meanwhile, mi- pays the applicable import fees, or, al- tocol, means that the actual numbers For years, a debate has surfaced from the guns in patrol cars nor figures have spo- ternately, proves that the guns were, in were rather higher. time to time, about whether or not tas- or at the station. Since the news broke ken up on behalf of the guns. While the fact, a present. The only recent incident of protest- ers should be part of Icelandic police’s out, it has been revealed that the Coast Coast Guard still pretended that the ers taking up arms against authorities standard equipment. It seemed that Guard has actually been stockpiling guns were “a gift,” former police offi- The frantic, rioting mob was when stones were thrown at of- several governments in a row sided weapons, since at least 2013. They cer Vilhjálmur Árnason—currently an ficers in riot gear in January of 2009. with those who opposed such weap- have disclosed nothing of their own Independence Party MP—went on the For what it’s worth, Iceland has resid- The police were exhausted and had onry. Meanwhile, someone, some- volition, but according to their less se- radio to explain why the chief of police ed at the very top of the Global Peace depleted their pepper spray supplies. where, silently had his or her way with cretive business partners abroad, they had accepted those presents: “Because Index for seven years in a row. Why Thus left defenceless, they had, de a much more efficient plan. Tasers acquired 50 unspecified machine guns he has Glock handguns all over the would police officers in such a country facto, been conquered. are, of course, only occasionally le- from Norway last year, and 30 MG3s place. And it’s harder to take aim, per- feel a need to carry weapons worthy The question that, according to thal. Meanwhile, no one argues with from Norway and Denmark. That's haps you are going to a school where of an Iron Man sequel through their a Heckler & Koch MP5, which can be 330 machine guns in two years. there is an attack, and then you want daily routine? While authorities re- Continues on P.31 seen in action in films like ‘Zero Dark to hit the right man. […] So it’s just, the main either mute or nonsensical, their

The Reykjavík Grapevine at’s 8 Issue 17 — 2014 wh th i o s

s .

. . Iceland | For Dummies ? NEWS IN BRIEF

So What's This BY PAUL FONTAINE Lack Of Army I Keep Hearing About? Icelanders have once again grown fed up with their elected repre- sentatives, staging a massive protest Words by Kári Tulinius @Kattullus demonstration in front of Alþingi last Illustration by Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir Monday. Thousands stood at Aus- turvöllur, Reykjavík’s hip spot for pro- test meetings, to denounce a veritable cornucopia of bad policy decisions celand has no army. It does in the Copenhagen University stu- (police estimated 4,500 attendees at operate a Coast Guard, dents' militia, was appointed sheriff the protest, while some attendees es- which does have four ships, in the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago timated that they were in fact closer three of which are combat- in 1853. Seemingly out of a mixture of to 7,000). This particular time around, ready vessels. The Coast boredom and belief in the moral ben- the political party actually leading the Guard has a wide variety of efits of military training, he founded country–in this case, the Progressives– guns at its disposal, from cannons to a battalion in Vestmannaeyjar. have most recently polled at just under Ihandguns. But it is not really a navy in 9%. Remember, folks: the last time a any kind of traditional sense. The Na- Boredom is the most dangerous ruling coalition stepped down, it was tional Police Commissioner also has a weapon. Genghis Khan got bored because one party didn’t want to give the steering wheel to the other. Just Special Unit of 50 police officers, nick- one day and decided to invade the something to bear in mind. named “The Viking Squad,” which has shit out of everyone.

several units specialized in various as- He sure did. Though I think bore- pects of armed conflict. dom was not the reason. The Vest- mannaeyjar battalion got a small Viking Squad? Should monks in grant from the Danish state as well Britain and France start lock- as private funding, and at its height ing their doors at night and pray numbered about 100 people. But it In happier political news, former for safety from the wrath of the did not last long after the death of its Reykjavík mayor Jón Gnarr is Northmen? founder. Denmark had no interest in considering a presidential run in Just about the only thing the Vi- maintaining a military in Iceland, and 2016. This is a change from the last king Squad has in common with their on the rare occasion that it felt the time he was asked on the matter, when namesakes, Actual Vikings, is that need, it sent a ship over with some sol- he said he “hadn’t ruled it out”, and the time before that, when he said that he neither wear helmets with horns. diers. There was an army of Iceland, it would absolutely not run for president. That is about it as far as anything that was the Danish military. By all accounts Gnarr isn’t playing could be called a militarized force some coy long-game here; it probably in Iceland. With the best will in the Ah, so a military culture never de- genuinely takes a long time to con- world, it includes about 250 people— veloped in Iceland? vince some people to run for president, that includes those who answer the Yes. Also, when Iceland declared as crazy as that sounds. Watch this phones when you call the Coast Guard turn. It made for an unstable society, man merchants fought for control of independence from Denmark in space for when he officially throws his office. This is not a recent develop- which was good material for saga- harbours in Iceland, with dozens of 1944 it was under occupation by the hat in the ring. ment. Unlike military-free countries writing, but bad for getting through deaths. And, then, there was a mini- US. The Icelandic army was the US such as Costa Rica or Haiti, Iceland life with all your limbs attached. religious war between Catholics and military. After World War II ended, never had an army to disband. Lutherans. the US army left only to return in I also sometimes do stupid things 1951 to set up a base, staying until No army? So all these Vikings that to get a good story, like when I You see, the baby eel wriggled 2006. Meanwhile, Icelandic authori- settled Iceland gave up their blood- stuck a baby eel up my nose. about for a while and then fell out. ties were happy to not have to spend The saga of the guns from Nor- letting ways? After Iceland became part of Maybe that's not such a good story. money on a military, though the right- way just keeps getting weirder, or First of all, the actual Vikings who Norway, and then of Denmark when With Iceland’s lack of army, the wing Independence Party long strove more hilarious, depending on how you settled Iceland were only a small pro- Norway became subject to the Dan- occasional pirate ship could have free to found an official citizens' militia to look at it. Despite repeated assurances portion of the original settlers. Sec- ish king, there was little or no effort reign in the country, as could Danish beat up left-wingers and poor people. from the police and the Coast Guard ond, no they certainly did not give up made to create an army in Iceland. adventurer Jørgen Jørgensen, who Sorry, I mean the militia was sup- that the guns were a gift and the sign- their bloodletting ways. In the first There was not much gained for the took control of Iceland for a couple of posed to assist the police in sensitive ing of an invoice was just some Nor- few centuries of its existence, Ice- Danish state in having an army in a months along with a few British mer- matters. wegian formality, it seems Norwegians landic government had no executive generally quite peaceful country, es- chant buddies of his. However, mostly are insisting on getting paid for their branch. People had to enforce laws pecially since transporting the troops no one wanted Iceland badly enough machine guns. For now, the machine and court judgements on their own, to where they would be needed in to take it away from the Kingdom of guns are being held by toll authorities which often meant doing so by force, mainland Europe would take months. Denmark, so an army was not need- until all this is straightened out. Which which could lead to death and disfig- This lack of army sometimes caused ed. Though there was one instance urement. And if someone harmed you problems, such as in the sixteenth of Danish authorities raising troops. or your family, you had to retaliate in century, when English and Ger- Andreas August von Kohl, a captain CONTINUES OVER

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Law | Order NEWS Arrest, REPORT IN BRIEF Injury, will hopefully make you feel a little bit better about customs hanging onto your iPhone 6 from abroad for a few days before sending it to your home wrapped in that space-age packing tape. Aftermath How did Chaplas Menke's arrest

lead to serious injury? And why? Speaking of those guns, the Bishop of Iceland has had some thoughts to share about a num- Words by Tómas Gabríel Benjamin ber of topics lately, the machine guns amongst them. First, she managed to Photos by Hörður Sveinsson actually point the finger at the gen- eral public for not showing the police Standing by the door of a two-storey building in the Höfði sufficient amounts of trust, because apparently we should totally trust a industrial district and not finding a doorbell, I call Chap- police force that tried to keep a mas- las Menke, who says he’ll come down to let me in. My in- sive arming-up a secret from us (and have been keeping records of the terview subject made local headlines this September, after public’s political beliefs, as we’re told). being reportedly brutalised by the police. Since then, the Second, she hand-waved away the story has gone quiet. rapidly growing number of people de- registering from the national church as a by-product of both emigration (con- tending erroneously that people who A short while later, he invites me to his to visit friends, and was surprised how move away from Iceland are automati- abode. He is of average height, dark- well he fit in, as well as how friendly the cally de-registered) and immigration. skinned, with sunken eyes and a svelte locals were. “Every time I’m in Iceland, Which no doubt made Iceland’s immi- frame. He has a thick accent and speaks I’m very happy,” he says. “There are very grants feel really welcome here. hesitatingly, picking his words carefully. few black people in Iceland, so no matter I ask him how he’s doing, and he where I go, everyone is friendly.” According to a new poll, most modestly says okay as we make our Unfortunately, his Italian refugee Icelanders do not want gam- way up the stairs and to his room. He status doesn’t afford him the same bling to be legalised here. This hobbles slowly travelling rights as might be bad news for Progressive MP along on a crutch On the table next to us European citizens, Willum Þór Þórsson, who has been the through the unlit as he’s only allowed sole champion of getting Iceland its are four different kinds first casino. By his accounts, Iceland is hall of the eleven- to stay in Iceland of prescription painkiller practically crawling with illegal casinos bedroom complex. for three months as it is. That there may be underground It’s dingy and a full boxes, as well as packs of at a time. Without gambling parlours in Iceland would seven kilometres instant ramen. The air is a working permit, sure explain the predominance of from downtown stuffy, and I get the im- Chaplas resorted to guys wearing fedoras, carrying Tommy Reykjavík. collecting cans and guns, and ending their sentences with Chaplas’s room pression he doesn’t leave bottles downtown. “see?” when they shake down owners is an eclectic mess, his room often. He’d earn 15 ISK per of speakeasies for protection money. with a large un- item recycled, mak- made bed in one corner next to an old ing around 5,000 ISK (£25 / 40 USD) Once again, the idea of adopting faux-leather sofa, and a pile of old TVs. on a good night out. It’s not much, but daylight savings in Iceland is Chaplas says he doesn’t have a lot of be- he says he got by. where he was given a letter stating that manner when we speak, one of several being floated. Granted, setting the longings, and that he lets his friends use said he had overstayed his visit by sev- inconsistencies in his story. According clock back an hour in the winter would indeed make the sun rise earlier later the unused space to store their things. eral months. Another policeman asked to police, once they decided to remove The letter in the year here, which would make He offers me a seat on the sofa. On the him a few questions, before telling him the alleged zip-tie, however, they did so getting up to go to work slightly more table next to us are four different kinds On one such venture in early Septem- he was under arrest. with a knife, in the process accidentally pleasant than doing so in total dark- of prescription painkillers, as well as ber, he was stopped by two police of- Chaplas insists that the policeman cutting Chaplas’s right leg four times. ness four months of the year. On the packs of instant ramen. The air is stuffy, ficers. After asking his name, the pair didn’t explain to him what crime he He shows me the scars, and two months other hand, having to set the clock and I get the impression he doesn’t called headquarters, and then told him was charged with, and that he was then after the fact, they still look gruesome. back again in the spring is awful. leave his room often. they had to deliver him a letter from the refused his legal right to an attorney. Chaplas tells me he started bleed- Hopefully, we’ll just keep setting the The 35-year-old Chaplas is a refugee Directorate of Immigration. Chaplas He says he panicked and started resist- ing heavily, and was ambulanced to the clock back by one hour, every winter, from Liberia, a country that has for long says he asked if he could come collect it ing as the police attempted to transfer emergency room. He says the doctors until the sun is rising at three in the been plagued by civil war. Unlike so in the morning, as it was already close him to another room. The police say gave him thirteen stitches, and told morning in December. Sure, it serves many asylum seekers in Iceland, Chap- to midnight. However, the officers as- he was subsequently restrained with him his calf muscle was torn, which no practical purpose, but it would las has already been granted refugee sured him the errand would only take handcuffs and a zip-tie plastic strap make life a little more interesting, you status—in Italy. He tells me he origi- fifteen minutes. around his feet, although Chaplas Continues on P.31 gotta admit. nally visited Iceland as a tourist in 2009 He agreed to go to the station, oddly disputes being restrained in that

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Tel. +354 540 1313 | [email protected] | grayline.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 12 Issue 17 — 2014

Opinion | Xenophobia Being The Other

Words by Paul Fontaine Photo by GAS

I won’t soon forget the day I was finally awarded Icelandic citizenship. Having moved to Iceland eight years previous, I fulfilled all the necessary requirements for a non-Schengen immigrant—I had been living continuously in Iceland for at least the past seven years, I had not even so much as a speeding ticket on my criminal record, and I had received no social assistance in the past three years before applying. However, I soon realized that this was about as far as I was going to go towards integration. Citizenship is the immigra- tion ceiling. You are, in the legal sense anyway, an Icelander like any other. In every other sense, you are still a foreigner. You will always be a foreigner. Even your Iceland-born chil- dren are categorized differently.

The most obvious example of this can This mentality is insulting to Ice- previous little things hurts just a little be seen in our own immigration laws. landers. It tells them that they are some bit more. Here, we see an unapologetic ethnic kind of time travellers from the Viking This is something I would like ev- hierarchy at work in terms of which Age who have not socially evolved in eryone to have in mind the next time foreigners will enjoy the most privilege centuries; that they are a superstitious you hear an immigrant say they have upon arrival in Iceland: the “best” im- and fragile island people who just can- been discriminated against, or are hurt migrants come from Scandinavia, fol- not handle new cultures, languages or by what they see as racism or xenopho- lowed by other Schengen-area immi- religions, and rather than upsetting bia. It is not their job to learn to either grants (that is, mostly western Europe), their narrow world view, foreigners accept it or laugh it off; followed by everyone else. At the same must learn to be more like them. it is our job to listen If we want foreigners time, according to “Viðhorf Íslendinga To be sure, Iceland is a special coun- and change our behav- til innflytjenda á Íslandi” (“Icelanders’ try in many ways. The danger comes iour. And no Icelander to integrate better attitudes towards immigrants in Ice- from believing this specialness gives should accept the no- into Icelandic society, land”), a report from 2009 done for Bi- us a pass to discriminate. But the key to tion that they belong we need to actively fröst University, the further away from undoing this lies in taking a more mod- to a fragile and medi- Iceland an immigrant hails, the more ern, and more accurate, look at what it eval culture that can- engage in not just likely Icelanders are to view them in a means to be an Icelander. not adapt to change. changing the law but negative light. In poll after poll over the years, the If we want for- changing how we This is not to contend that immi- vast majority of foreigners report expe- eigners to integrate gration law necessarily creates this riencing some form of prejudice from better into Icelandic approach those who outlook, but it does arguably legitimize Icelanders on a daily or almost daily ba- society, we need to voluntarily move here heightened suspicion of non-European sis. I can attest that every time Grape- actively engage in not to start a new life for immigrants in Iceland. So long as the vine has reported on this very basic and just changing the law law itself divides immigrants into eth- demonstrable fact, there will always but changing how we themselves. nic categories of being More Like Us be locals who respond with disbelief. approach those who and Less Like Us, there can be no hope Surely this is a misunderstanding of voluntarily move here to start a new life of undoing that mentality in the general what “prejudice” means, they argue. for themselves. We need to accept that public. Maybe it’s a misunderstanding based we are a part of the rest of the world; This More Like Us v. Less Like Us on language barriers. Maybe they just not separate from it. If we truly consid- hierarchy is unfortunately used quite don’t get the “Icelandic way” of being. er the future of this country something often by some of this country’s louder Here I want to point out the concept of paramount importance, we need to voices of intolerance. Turn on radio of “death by a thousand cuts.” Maybe make integration something that we do station Útvarp Saga, for example, and none of these things, by themselves, are for immigrants; not something immi- you will very often hear this kind of necessarily a “big deal.” But imagine grants need to do on their own. rhetoric: poor little Iceland just cannot you experienced these little things on defend itself, culturally or linguisti- a more or less daily basis. The accumu- cally, against a massive influx of non- lative effect wears a person down and Scandinavian foreigners. Immigration grates on the nerves to the point where, is new to Iceland, they say, and our very each time one of these “little things” national existence is in danger. happen, the hurt you carry from all the

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BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík +354 580 5400 OR [email protected] • www.re.is The Reykjavík Grapevine The Reykjavík Grapevine What do you think? Is there good reason to make some noise? Or are folks just 14 Issue 16 — 2014 14 Issue 17 — 2014 honouring a newfangled tradition by now? Drop us a line: [email protected] EYMUNDSSON Politics | Reykjavík BOOKSTORES News | Politics BESTSELLERS REPORT

Independent People Sagas Of The Icelanders 1 Halldór Laxness 2 Ýmsir höfundar

Njals Saga - Wordsworth Die schönsten 3 Translated by Lee M. Hollander 4 isländischen Sagas Rolf Heller A New Wave Of Icelanders are once again making Jar City Under The Glacier 5 Arnaldur Indriðason 6 Halldór Laxness their dissent heard, loud and clear Protests

Words by Tómas Gabríel Benjamin Protest organizer Svavar Knútur, Photos by Spessi as it all went down

I Remember You Die schönsten Erzählungen Islands 7 Yrsa Sigurðardóttir 8 Soffía Birgisdóttir Tension has been rising in Iceland of late. An estimated 4,500 people attended a general protest against the government on November 4, almost completely filling Austurvöllur by Alþingi. This marks it as one of the biggest demonstrations this year. The event was initially inspired by a Facebook rant from singer-songwriter Svavar Knútur, wherein he bemoaned the current coalition government’s favouritism of the rich and powerful.

Instigator Svavar Knútur began the Svavar added that this protest meet- listing what the government was doing demonstration by addressing the crowd. ing was but the first of many to come. wrong. Ólöf was joined at the protest by In his speech—which has been widely four family members. shared across social media since the All kinds of people In conversation at the protest, Agent event—he likened the rally to the first of Fresco singer Arnór Dan Arnarson was three warnings his father used to give Judging by the numerous signs and ban- less charitable, noting that there was a troublemakers at the dinner table before ners present, those present were there great disparity between what the gov- forcing them to leave. He went on to de- for a variety of reasons. Some signs in- ernment said and how it acted. “It doesn’t Ashes to Dust Day is Dark mand that elected officials do their job sisted that the government was corrupt make sense to say there’s no money to 9 Yrsa Sigurðardóttir 10 Yrsa Sigurðardóttir with integrity, modesty and a modicum and pandered to the wealthy and power- resuscitate our crumbling healthcare of respect for the general public, while ful, while others displayed socialist slo- system, while at the same time lower- condemning their actions of late; which gans or urged for new elections. ing taxes on wealthy fisheries and quota he said included refusing to take any Teacher Ólöf Húnfjörð Samúelsdót- owners.” He went on to say that apparent THE LIST REPRESENTS SALES FROM ALL EYMUNDSSON BOOKSTORES form of criticism seriously—at best re- tir, 53, told me she was felt compelled moves to privatization and police mili- sponding with condescension—leaking to protest due to on-going strikes in the tarization were signs of Iceland moving misleading personal information about educational and health sectors. She de- further away from the Nordic welfare asylum seekers, and covertly weaponiz- scribed the situation as hopeless, and state ideal, and closer to the US model. ing their police force. said didn’t even know where to begin “This government is out of touch with The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2014 15 Taste the best of Iceland ...... in one amazing meal

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Info MADE IN ICELAND www.jswatch.com The November 4 protests began at With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master 17:00, and had mostly wrapped up Watchmaker ensures that we take our waterproofing rather seriously. Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, two hours later. The protests were inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. reality—it’s demolish- peaceful, with no arrests made by had dwindled down ing our society’s pil- the police. to a few hundred. lars. The only way to Around twenty police stop it is by making “This government is out officers were pres- some major fucking ent throughout, at no changes and getting a of touch with reality— point interfering with new government.” it’s demolishing our so- the proceedings. One Meanwhile, inside ciety’s pillars. The only officer remarked that Alþingi, Prime Minis- they felt the crowd’s ter Sigmundur Davíð way to stop it is by mak- anger wasn’t directed Gunnlaugsson evaded ing some major fucking at them, but at the questions from a RÚV changes and getting a politicians. reporter who asked While disman- why people might be new government.” tling the makeshift fed up with his gov- stage, Svavar Knútur ernment, stating instead that they were said he was thrilled with the attendance. upset about a great many things, such "I'm not sure when the next protest will as the on-going music teacher’s strike, happen, we didn't really plan ahead. It and the fact that their own parties were won't be tomorrow, but maybe a few not in power. This demonstration was days from now." simply, in his opinion, a part of Iceland’s newly established tradition of protest- ing. He went on to claim that he agreed with some of the opinions expressed outside, and disagreed with others. The protest meeting lost steam once the sun set, and by seven o’clock, two hours after it formally began, the protest The Reykjavík Grapevine DID YOU KNOW: Each Icelander will publish at least eight novels during his or Issue 17 — 2014 her lifetime. They will also release at least two albums of original music, enjoy 16 great success at the Venice Biennale and come second in the NY Marathon! Literature| Too much OMG! Bookflood Is Coming ‘Tis the season to buy one of 800 new Icelandic books for your friends and family

Words by John Rogers Photos by Hörður Sveinsson

Icelandic winter really, really sucks. It’s dark almost all the time, and the streets are icy and beset by freezing winds and snow. The mood of Reykjavík’s denizens noticeably changes at this time of year, with many people suffering sleep disorders or SAD, and generally withdrawing back into domestic life. It’s a time of lining the home nest, cook- ing hot stews and soups, turning up the heating, perhaps shying away from more social events than usual, and gen- erally strapping in for the long, dark months ahead.

With indoor activities the order of the author top-tens and literary gift ideas. quarter,” he says. “It’s getting crazy culture in the centuries that followed via really competing with just a couple of day, it’s a perfect time to engage with But here in Iceland, the ‘flood has some now. There are so many books coming “kvöldvaka,” a time of the evening when major titles, say, the ones in the crime- things that have long hovered on the interesting numbers attached to it, and in—in this store, we got eight titles yes- members of the household would gather fiction genre. They get engaged in a kind backburner—creative practices and the feel of a more defined cultural tradi- terday alone, some by really big authors, around the fire to carry out domestic of hyped-up chart race, and all the press amusements, perhaps, such as painting, tion that makes it stand out from what so many releases just blend in with each tasks like knitting and sewing, inventing is about just those few books." writing or knitting—or just curling up goes on elsewhere. other—people have to be really clever to and reciting poems and stories as they And with popular genres dominating with a mug of coffee and a pile of books. For a start, there’s the sheer number rise to the top." worked. the media coverage, it can be tough for Handy, then, that Iceland is home to of new titles that come out. In 2013, over By the 20th century, literature had books that lie outside of more commer- a seasonal book bonanza known as the 800 new books hit the shelves during the Tell me a story became a source of national pride, cial concerns to get the attention they jólabókaflóð, which translates literally jólabókaflóð, accounting for a whopping with the country’s overall literacy rat- deserve. “We have many very promising as the "Christmas book flood.” Litera- 80% of country’s entire annual literary But, first things first—how did all this ing amongst the best in the world. But young authors,” says Kristján, “and I’ve ture becomes a hot topic of conversation output. This number places Iceland at come about? Well, settle down, chil- as well as these cultural precursors of seen their new works drown in the book leading into Christmas, with people the top of a whole dren—the theories on jólabókaflóð, there’s an economic story flood. Great titles come out from some treating the gifts they select as a point bunch of inter- "Great titles come out jólabókaflóð’s origins to be told. Around the time of World War of Iceland's best up and coming authors, of pride. Indeed, the bookstores of Reyk- national charts, are many, and tap II, most imports to Iceland were heavily but they just vanish. They’re probably in javík see an annual torrent of new titles including the one from some of Iceland's into various strands taxed—with paper being a rare excep- the back of the warehouse—behind all hitting the shelves almost simultaneous- about new books best up and coming of culture and history tion. This convergence of a strong liter- the shelves of new books, there’s a sec- ly, with shopkeepers bracing themselves released per-capi- authors, but they just that reach back to the ary culture and financial practicality tion they call ’the black hole,’ with all the for masses of customers aiming to snap ta—in fact, it’s more country’s very begin- clicked together neatly into the seasonal forgotten books.” up the most talked-about titles. than double that vanish. They’re prob- nings. As far back tradition we still see today. And once the “new book!” novelty of Iceland’s Nordic ably in the back of the as the 12th century, has worn off, there’s currently not much Old Icelandic proverb: neighbours, with warehouse—behind Iceland was already a Not waving, but chance for worthy contenders to reach around five titles Nordic literary leader their audience. “The lifetime of each title books make good gifts published for every all the shelves of new via the sagas—that is, drowning in the market is definitely getting short- 1000 Icelanders. books, there’s a section those famous historic Back in present, jólabókaflóð isn't all er,” says Kristjan. “People often work on Of course, a Christmas book-rush is not Kristján Freyr they call ’the black epics about revenge, fireside tales and bedtime stories. This books for years, and then the release date unique to Iceland. Books are a classic Halldórsson is violence, intrigue, im- unusual congestion of new books means comes, but within two months there’s a present, ranking with an HBO box set the manager of hole,’ with all the for- probable adventures that, inevitably, some titles are left by the yellow tag on the cover, and the price is for a sibling or a bottle of whisky for dad Laugarvegur book- gotten books.” and ill-fated affairs, wayside or buried beneath the weight of reduced from 6,000 to 2,000 ISK. It’s in imagination. The phenomenon of the shop Mál og men- boasting a body count the competition. But the way that main like a conveyor belt—it happens so fast, Christmas book rush is consistent across ning. He sits on the “front lines” as the that makes Vin Diesel look like the Dalai publishers carry out their marketing is a and before you know it, you’re falling off Europe, with many national newspapers jólabókaflóð approaches each year. “I Lama. problem too. the end.” in England and France, for example, would say 60-70% of all the books we This love of tall tales and storytelling “The worst thing about the jólabókaf- publishing an entire section featuring stock each year come out in the last was woven further into early Icelandic lóð,” says Kristján, “is that publishers are

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Words by Rebecca Scott Lord Photos by Hörður Sveinsson & provided by Meðgönguljóð.

On "The Story Island," a fresh young crop of writers is busy carving out a space, making way, creating a culture all of their own, in defiance of what came before. Much like their predecessors, and their predecessors' predecessors.

I.

shells of buildings illuminated ashore lay their lustre against the sky

we hold hands Icelanders’ rich literary history is an enduring point of that Reykjavík was on the seawall Birth lished this year has balanced out to about all of a sudden dis- marvel the disappearance of a planet an equal number of men and women, pride for the nation, greatly contributing to the national tinctly and lamen- Meðgönguljóð's reflective of the number of writers really (everyone leaves here in the end) identity, even providing the basis for their claims to in- tably lacking a lit- first book came in out there. "Our mission early on became erary scene. They the spring of 2012, to find these voices that weren't getting dependence in the 19th and 20th centuries. Long before shadows swallow reflections found that read- a collaborative heard or weren't getting their stuff out the onslaught of the ongoing nation branding campaigns and we can no longer make out ings and events for who is swimming toward us work written by elsewhere," Vala says. based on the reputation of revered musicians like Björk writers to come Vala and Kári and and Sigur Rós, Icelanders liked to present themselves as together had be- we are forgotten in waves published as a sub- Breathe come alarmingly vanish by the seabed sidiary of the small a literary nation—“The Story Island”—on the world stage, rare, while poetry press Stella, owned Meðgönguljóð started out finding their frequently boasting of their high literacy rates and fabled books were pro- absently we lay by their friend and authors mainly through word of mouth. storytelling tradition. hibitively expen- the foundation of a footprint co-founder Svein- Kári and Vala would attend readings, sive, the average björg Bjarnadóttir. and when they witnessed someone they price hovering at Björk Þorgrímsdóttir In the beginning, found interesting they tracked him or Indeed, before Björk, there was Snorri of fiction, and some of those will eventu- around 5,000 ISK (Meðgönguljóð 2014) Með gönguljóð her down, and offer to work with them. Sturluson. Stretching from the Sagas of ally become revered literary figures. for a hardcover. published a large And what Meðgönguljóð provides, its the Icelanders written in the 13th and It all starts somewhere. "That price made it number of women real value, goes far beyond just printing 14th centuries, all the way to the diverse Which leads one to ask: what’s brew- sort of precious somehow," Vala says. "It authors, leading some to conclude that and distribution. They assign an editor literary scenes of the 20th and 21st cen- ing in Iceland at the moment? What are wasn't a part of the everyday. You weren't they were only publishing women. They to work with each poet, taking between turies, the tradition of the written word our youngest writers up to, and where picking it up and carrying it around say they weren't necessarily implement- six to nine months to revise and craft the is almost forcefully ingrained into Ice- are they headed? with you and chatting with your friends ing a quota, however, it was just that a lot manuscript. In the beginning, the editing landic culture. A widely disseminated about it. We basically wanted to make the of interesting women attracted their at- was solely in the hands of Vala and Kári, myth states that one in ten Icelanders Pregnancy whole experience more casual, to make it tention. "I don't know what it is exactly," who took turns doing every other manu- will publish a book in their lifetime, and so that you could go to a café and pick up Vala says, "but it's a fact that fewer wom- script. By now, they've gotten established while that is mostly bullshit, the sparse A quick survey of the local lit scene re- the newest poet." en get published than men in Iceland, writers on board as editors, fostering a populace still manages to produce an im- veals that a group of young poets oper- To begin with, Vala and Kári drew on and it's worse, statistically, in poetry than connection between the younger and pressive amount of literature. ating under the name Meðgönguljóð the low-cost model of zines and indepen- in other literary fields." Vala says she older generations of writers. So, let’s say you decide to devote your (translated literally as “pregnancy po- dent publishing—which they had grown was particularly troubled by a report by Vala is gung-ho about the collab- life to writing literature in a language of ems”) has been the most prominent and familiar with in the US—to make a series newspaper Fréttablaðið around Christ- orative aspect of the editing process. In only 330,000 native speakers. How do active in carving out space for themselves of chapbooks: small handmade books mas 2013, which said that only 37% of working with an editor, she says that ev- you get started? How can you make your of late, making their presence widely featuring a selection of works by a par- the short stories and novels published ery single manuscript is improved in all voice heard? As literary scholar Jón Yn- known and slowly infiltrating the dis- ticular poet, often their first published that year were authored by women. Even sorts of ways. "There's some sort of magic gvi Jóhannsson details in a sidebar to this course. Founded by Valgerður Þórodds- work. The two of them casually refer to more striking were the statistics from in the collaboration," she says. "I think it's article, a common route for young would- dóttir and Kári Tulinius, Meðgönguljóð the first project of Meðgönguljóð as the the field of poetry, where a mere fifth of invaluable just getting real feedback. The be authors since the advent of modernity was conceived as an independent pub- "coffee series," as the idea became to sell poetry books published in 2013 were by idea isn't to put a leash on the writing. has seen them grouping together under a lisher of poetry that would provide young each book for around the price of a cup of women authors. It's about creating a dialogue." She goes banner, fleshing out and promoting mu- poets an opportunity to release their coffee, or between 4-500 ISK. Their goal of trying to represent with on to emphasize that getting out of your tual mythologies and shared aesthetics work through a professional yet highly "The idea came in the wintertime of equality the gender breakdown of the own headspace is critical, and that the (that are often in opposition to their pre- DIY process, providing vital support, re- 2010 and 2011," Kári says, "when the re- real literary scene thus came naturally. notion that writers are solitary creatures decessors’) as they claim space for them- sources and encouragement. cession was still biting very hard and the Vala says that with regard to who is actu- who produce masterpieces in a vacuum selves and their contemporaries—usually Vala and Kári conceived the idea and post-pots and pans revolution excitement ally out there writing, the ratio is closer is largely a myth. To her, a sense of com- emphasizing poetry over prose. Eventu- M.O. of Meðgönguljóð after having each was sort of starting to wane." to 50/50, which can be affirmed by sur- munity is important, and that's exactly ally, some of those authors will branch just come back to Iceland from stints in veying the Writers’ Union records. The what she and Kári are aiming to do with out into publishing more popular forms the US. Upon returning, both noticed gender ratio that Meðgönguljóð pub- Meðgönguljóð. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2014 19

Snæfellsjökull seen from a motionless bus

A damp entanglement of paper clings to the sky I swipe Snæfell’s glacier from the win- dow and make a note of the things I should have said to you:

"They're all in their own world, writ- movement publisher. "Frankly, in some ing written and 1) under a flat, glassy surface ous than an hon- Scream ing and reading their own stuff. I think ways it's because movements are in- pursued. Haukur there are stones which are stones est poet—at their it's important to come to these meeting ternally sort of volatile. We like to keep Már says that the 2) snow softens; best, they can be a While Meðgönguljóð might be the most points where authors meet authors and things as drama free as possible. We're conscious reasons I am a mountain that is a mountain culture's most dev- prominent group of the moment, it is far poets meet poets. Then you're not alone poets, not playwrights." to create poetry astating social and from the only game in town, with several and you're not just putting your poems "have to do with Snæfellsjökull will be tossed in a bin political critics." other collectives and publishing groups in a drawer." She says that there's always What's poetry got to do ideas about poetry will decompose among banana peals, T h i s keeping the literary scene alive, each something that comes from these gather- being a good crite- paper cups, pop cans, candy wrappers critical potential refuse which is refuse with their mission statements and defin- ings and can be used in her own poetry or with it? rion for one's capa- rears its head in a ing characteristics. just her life. Almost all writers affiliated with the Ice- bilities, while also different way for poems document landscape; Started in 2013 by Sólveig Matthil- "There’s a nice atmosphere among being an important every generation landic literary scene, past and present, lo- feelings rot dur Kristjánsdóttir, Fríyrkjan is a punk the young writers, and I do feel they cal and abroad, seem to have started their place for practice: of poets. Who can poetry group of sorts. Sólveig herself is are generally supportive of each other," careers with poetry. As long as there's to actually focus Kári Tulinius say exactly what young, 19 years old, and many of the early says Arngunnur Árnadóttir, another been a prose tradition in Iceland, there's on your writing, (Meðgönguljóð 2013) this generation members were around that age, though Meðgönguljóð poet. "The group of peo- also been an equally strong current of po- word by word, find is reacting to and now the membership has expanded to ple surrounding Meðgönguljóð is fantas- etry running alongside. This traditional your own desires criticising? Opin- those in their mid-to-late twenties. The tic and it’s been inspiring to get to know fare is the stuff of the Sagas, with rigid and tendencies in ions vary, and it's group hosts monthly readings, currently them." rules for composition, mandatory end its employment, in the way you bend it or difficult to know because there hasn't at Bravó, where Sólveig works as a bar- When asked if she thinks they've rhymes and a strong emphasis on alliter- squeeze it or explode it. I think these are yet been an opportunity for hindsight. tender. The scene at Fríyrkjan’s readings been successful in fostering a communi- ation. The Atom Poets broke free of this not just rationalizations, but quite valid Haukur Már, who is from the generation is Bacchanalian, fueled by beer and a raw ty, Vala says she can't really answer that, in the post WWII period, forming the reasons for at least some writers." above the poets just coming up, notices edge. And in contrast to Meðgönguljóð, as she's far too close to the action to have first modern poetic movement in Iceland There's something about poetry an almost bitter sense. "If they have any- the group’s poets claim they aren’t at all an objective opinion. Kári feels similarly, with their free verse, and subsequent that appeals to an Icelandic sensibility, thing in common, as far as I see, it would interested in editing and refining their describing Meðgönguljóð as a generation movements have continued the theme of though it's not necessarily just by virtue be a sense of disillusion, giving birth to poetry, focusing on just writing it and rather than a movement, in the sense that breaking from the past, including Nýhil, of being an Icelander that writers here various different responses, from the fin- performing on stage. They published the poets they've published so far were the most recent movement, whose most start with it. Many, if not all writers con- est cynicism to calls for arms. It might go their first compilation of 21 poems in Au- all born in the 80s. He says, "There are active years were between 2004 and tinue on through their careers thinking somewhat hand in hand with a hopeless gust of 2012, and their second one in De- certain things in common with aesthet- 2009. of themselves as poets first, and novel- political situation, an enduring crisis of cember of this year. Meanwhile, Sólveig ics, but we haven't sat down and worked Haukur Ingvarsson is an author, ists, screenwriters, or whatever else sec- identity, of the economy, and of exis- herself is currently working on a book out a manifesto. And I don't think we literary scholar and poet who debuted ond. Says Kári, "I think it's common all tence." that Meðgönguljóð will publish come would ever do that, for various reasons. during Nýhil’s heyday. He describes over the world, the idea that poetry is the next year. We're not neces- their approach to language as being very expression of the soul. I think that idea How to make a living in Emil Hjörvar sarily speaking as different from a lot of what's happening has very strong currency in Iceland. For Petersen, another some sort of con- now. He says they were very focused on instance, though I am primarily in many three easy steps poet published by January 3rd sensus, and in that language and political aspects of it, but at ways a novelist, I believe in poetry in a Meðgönguljóð, sense, we're not a the same time playing a lot with its sound way that I don't believe in novels, in a sort If it's not particularly financially viable to is a part of a self- Mitten-clad hands opened beer bot- movement." and utilising both high- and lowbrow sty- of almost religious sense." make a living off writing, and especially publishing ven- tles with a key and we sipped from K á r i listics. It's almost a given that a writer in Ice- poetry, then how are there so many Ice- ture called Nykur, them while trampling the snow in goes on to say, "I One of Nýhil's founders, Haukur land is also a poet, no matter what genre landic poets and writers alive and well? originally started dress shoes. We walked single-file do think that all Már Helgason, posits that while poetry or literary scene he or she eventually The majority of writers have two or three in 1995 by Andri through the graveyard, holding on of the poets that might be a natural driving force behind gravitates towards. Sverrir Norland, au- other jobs, like Sólveig of Fríyrkjan who Snær Magnason as to each other so no one lost their way we've published, at the urge to write for some, it's not finan- thor of ‘Kvíðasnillingarnir’, a novel pub- bartends at Bravó and Húrra, or Ásta a means to facili- among the gravestones. Beyond the least in the shorter cially viable to dedicate one's writing life lished this past September by Iceland's Fanney who gets to eats whenever she graveyard followed a sharp, steep hill, tate authors who works, the little to poetry, since Iceland is too small of a largest publisher, says he started writing sells a drawing. But surely this can't be which we didn’t realize until we had wished to publish books, are react- country to foster a literary market that poetry as a child. His first two published the only way, because romantic as it is to half-rolled, half-ran down it. Still we their own works. ing to what hap- could support that. Writers who are pri- works were poetry books, and then he be a starving artist, it's not exactly a sus- landed on our feet and stood in the Ásta Fanney backyard of a house. Made a racket un- pened in Iceland marily novelists but started out as just moved on to prose, his current focus. "I'm tainable career goal. Sigurðardót tir, der the bedroom window and smoked and the chaotic poets might have been able to continue a poetry guy, even though I don't really Haukur Már states it frankly, "Icelan- a poet who has a bunch of cigarettes. We sprinted over period that’s been on with poetry, had they been born in write much poetry anymore. But I read dic writers can make a career of writing published with Tjörnin’s sheet of ice, letting ourselves ongoing since the countries with larger language zones and it—it's my main source of energy." because the state funds them. Period. Meðgönguljóð, glide across, fell and hurt ourselves end of 2008." As therefore space to support the subculture Vala asserts that not only is poetry Over 90% of published literature does says that groups more than we expected. Kept going life-changing as that is poetry. Nýhil co-founder Eiríkur a natural thing for a writer, it's also the not sell sufficiently to keep the author such as Meðgön- and kept falling. There were stars in the financial cri- Örn similarly says, "Iceland is too small bravest kind of writing. "In some ways, alive along with the publisher and the guljóð are critical the sky but we didn’t see them for the sis was, especially to have a substantial subculture—every- it's easier to criticise, easier to mock, be- rest of the industry. About half probably to foster a system street lights. Anyway, we didn’t want for people of his thing has to exist within the mainstream cause it’s disarmingly simple. In that way manages to cover printing costs by sales of encouragement. to see anything in this ice cold gale. generation, just to be able to subsist. Literature is more I think poetry is a bit like being naked. only. But the deciding factor is this one "I think that poets coming of age, he and more a cultural sidenote and poetry Like making love, or being made love to, fund, founded by the state in 1969, where Arngunnur Árnadóttir are really some- reiterates that he is a cultural side note within literature." it requires a very concentrated surren- artists, including writers, can apply for (Meðgönguljóð 2013) times like lone doesn't have any Despite the fact that it's not finan- der. And when it’s good, it’s terrifyingly a salary. It is a stipend, but received on wolves," Ásta says. interest in being a cially viable, poetry is still actively be- honest. There's nothing more danger- a monthly basis, for three, six, nine or The Reykjavík Grapevine 20 Issue 17 — 2014 Youth Groups In Icelandic Literature, A Brief History Of From Fjölnir to Medúsa to Nýhil to Meðgönguljóð...

Words by Jón Yngvi Jóhannsson

Some accounts claim that modern Ice- many people attended a poetry read- The spectre of Nýhil landic literature began in 1835, when ing in Iceland. The reading was the four young students started their own culmination of the group’s success, The 1980s and 90s saw other groups literary journal in Copenhagen. Their but they went on to host other read- of poets and artists; some were short- influences and impulses came from Eu- ings around the country. The group lived and loosely affiliated, others have rope; an amalgam of reigning Enlight- and other writers around it has been had a lasting impact. Besti vinur ljóð- enment ideals of progress and a desire dubbed “the funny generation,” as sins (“The poem’s best friend”) hosted to disseminate bright new ideas and ro- their writing showed a humour and a series of poetry readings from 1986- mantic aesthetics that they had picked irony that was sometimes absent from 91, bringing together poets and writers up in their exile. The name of their jour- both contemporary modernists and from Medúsa, Listaskáldin vondu and nal, Fjölnir, came from the writings of more overtly political writers. various younger poets. the medieval historian Snorri Sturlu- Members of “the funny genera- The most influential group of young son. Fjölnir was a mythical king of the tion” are still active in Icelandic litera- poets and intellectuals in recent years Swedes, who sadly drowned in a large ture, and since the late ‘70s, grassroots has been Nýhil, founded in 2004. The twelve months a year, depending on the come as a surprise. One feature, however, vessel of mead, which he fell into while groups have regularly emerged on the name of the group is a pun on nihil(ism), artist's recognition and the quality of his/ that I think may be important, is emanci- dead drunk. scene: young poets, novelists and art- “ný” meaning new in Icelandic. The her application." pation from the fetishisation of language. From then on, we can tell the same ists that have later found their way into wordplay, the mixture of Icelandic and It would be almost impossible for a As in: this particular language, Icelandic. story over and over again: young and mainstream Icelandic literature and foreign languages and the connotations writer to make a living if they had to rely The adoration of linguistic texture has at aspiring poets form a group, and pub- beyond. The fairly recent suburb of of the neologism capture Nýhil’s spirit. only on the sales of their books, according times been somewhat been given prefer- lish journals or even books on their Breiðholt, Icelanders’ first attempt at The group was very active until 2010, to Haukur Ingvarsson. The grant system ence over thought or any other content." own until they are gradually accepted creating a concrete jungle, gave birth publishing poetry and nonfiction, host- is necessary for the health of the literary He says this focus can make it easy to de- into the mainstream—that is, if they to the most influential of these: the sur- ing international poetry festivals and scene, too, he says: "The existence of dif- velop tunnel vision for Iceland and only avoid falling into large vessels of mead realist group Medúsa, founded by six readings. Nýhil’s aesthetics were avant- ferent kinds of literature is vital for the Iceland, ignoring the existence of the rest or other beverages. adolescents in 1979. In the following garde and experimental, its politics left scene to function." Poetry is what fuels of the world and, therefore, the context in Fifty years later, four Icelandic years, the group studied and practiced wing and radical. The group’s interna- the writers of other genres like fiction, which Iceland sits. students again form a literary journal, surrealism in various forms inspired tional character and individual mem- like Sverrir Norland said. Emil is optimistic about the current this time aiming to import naturalism by its ideological founders, and in close bers’ networking with foreign artists It's a fairly cut variety in the lit- and new political trends from Den- cooperation with similar groups that are among its strongest characteristics. and dried process erature he sees mark. Again, the name was borrowed were still active in other parts of Eu- And once again, literary history to apply for a sti- coming out of Ice- from Snorri. This time, it was Verðan- rope. Medúsa organised happenings, repeats itself: from the grassroots and pend: you need to Urban Surf land. "With a new di, one of three witches that spin the held poetry readings at punk rock con- experimental environment of Nýhil submit a detailed generation, the threads of destiny in Old Norse-Ice- certs, published volumes of poetry, and writers have slowly but surely emerged proposal, and Nauseous from hunger genres come out landic mythology. in the true spirit of the avant-garde, into the mainstream, broadening it at we stretch out in the gutter sometimes a CV. of hiding, writers Another fifty years later, The As- wrote manifestos describing the group the same time. Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl, and touch However, the vast will experiment sociation of Revolutionary Writers and its goals. According to the group, Steinar Bragi and Kristín Eiríksdóttir like teenagers majority of people in other ways, and appeared on the scene; abandoning itself, Medúsa was made from “7 kilos now form the vanguard of Icelandic lit- receiving such a bird in the eaves above 'the Icelandic nov- the custom of choosing medieval flour, 23 grams surrealism, 13 grams erature, even making noise abroad. grants are over the blushes el' will change." names for their journal, they named dada, a teaspoon of punk, a kilometre of Nýhil was boisterous and loud. In age of 30, and have melts He says he worries it, rather appropriately, The Red Pens. Yasmin tea and 666 litres magic.” comparison, the latest groups of poets already published and sinks to the ground about the govern- Modernism and the post-war avant- The most prominent figure of to emerge may seem rather tame. The a book before. So ment’s proposed garde also had their journal, the in- Medúsa was Sjón, who published his lo-fi output of Meðgönguljóð (“Partus the means to sup- deep down (inside me) raise in VAT on fluential Birtíngur (‘Candide’) pub- first volume of poetry at the age of 16 Poetry”) is a recent example, as are the port oneself until are streets books, along with lished in the 1950s and 60s. and has since become an internation- more elaborate books of Tunglbækur those almost es- delineated in water its much maligned ally acclaimed novelist. He received the (“Moonbooks”) a small publishing sential criteria a shimmering wet cuts to arts and Get vile! Nordic Council Literary Prize in 2005, house operated by artists and writers are reached are culture funding, and has already been translated into 25 which only publishes books on a full there I stow the salt slapdash and hap- positing that they Many, if not most of the literary groups languages. moon. But, if things may seem peace- and the zippers hazard: side jobs, a have the potential which have been formed since the first Members of Medúsa later joined ful at the moment we can find hope and generous family, or to negatively affect other groups combining literature, vi- comfort in the words of Sjón: “There is Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir edition of Fjölnir rolled off the printing student loans. (Meðgönguljóð 2013) the literary scene. press in Copenhagen have, in one way sual arts and music, most notably Sme- this tendency in European art that once "And I think, His hope is that or another, identified with the found- kkleysa (“Bad Taste Ltd.”), founded in things seem to have reached some sort aside from any ar- the work of small ing fathers, the Fjölnismenn (“The Men 1986 by the members of Medúsa and of an equilibrium, some bullies come tistic merit, a col- publishers like of Fjölnir”). This was also the case in their friends, many of whom went on along and hurl themselves on the see- lective can be tremendously important in Meðgönguljóð, who he says has created 1976 when Listaskáldin vondu (“The to found The Sugarcubes. Among them saw; sending the old into the air from those formative years," says Haukur Már, a new poetry scene in no time, contin- vile poets”) appeared on the scene. The were writers like Friðrik Erlingsson where it may never return.” "at least as a mental and social support ues because despite the larger publishers name is a parody of a nickname given and Bragi Ólafsson (the Sugarcubes’ system. When your extended family and putting out great books, "in the long run to most revered of the Fjölnismen, Jó- bass player), who, like so many Icelan- Jón Yngvi Jóhannsson is an adjunct lecturer your acquaintances from school, even it's not healthy for literature to have such nas Hallgrímsson, “Listaskáldið góða” dic authors, started out as a poet but has at the University of Iceland where he teaches close friends, don't understand why you monotony. The more variety, the better (“The fine poet”). The scene they first since become one of Icelandic litera- modern Icelandic literature, Scandinavian bother—having a group of people who for literature." appeared on, very literally, was at the ture’s finest and most unconventional literature and literary theory. He has writ- share the manic obsession can be tre- Vala herself agrees that the cyclical University Cinema, where 1,300 pay- novelists. ten on Icelandic literary history and Danish- mendously helpful." pattern will continue. She specifically ing guests were crammed in, some of Icelandic literary history. His latest book is a The pattern that's repeated every gen- hopes for the poets of Meðgönguljóð to them sitting in folded chairs or in the biography on Gunnar Gunnarsson, a major eration is a fading away of the previous flourish and keep at it. She believes the aisles. Never before, or since, have so Danish-Icelandic author. literary scene, the forming of a new com- poets in Meðgönguljóð have the poten- munity with a new sense of purpose, and tial to be the great voices of tomorrow. then their subsequent fade. That's not to To Vala, diversity is critical, both with say that the members of each generation the voices in poetry and literature, and just go away when the collective goes. culture and society at large, and her de- TVEIR HRAFNAR Certainly members of groups like sire is for the powers that be to recognize JÓN ÓSKAR listhús, Art Gallery Nýhil and its predecessors, like surrealist and appreciate this. The politicians who NOVEMBER 8TH - offers a range of artwork by collective Medúsa (more on page 20), are are in charge of funding arts and culture NOVEMBER 29TH contemporary Icelandic artists still extremely active, their publications have a great responsibility to nourish it. represented by the gallery, regularly topping critics’ lists and even "I cling to the belief that if we keep en- selected works by acclaimed artists and past Icelandic sales charts. couraging a diverse range of voices we're masters. Haukur Ingvarson thinks this gen- bound to end up with a revolution. James Hallgrímur Helgason erational cycle will continue. He says that Baldwin once wrote, 'Where the poet Húbert Nói Jóhannesson each generation "not only invents itself, can sing, the people can live. When a ci- Jón Óskar but also picks up older authors from pre- vilisation treats its poets with the disdain Óli G. Jóhannsson Ragnar Þórisson vious scenes that were perhaps not paid with which we treat ours, it cannot be far Steinunn Þórarinsdóttir much attention and it reevaluates their from disaster.' I want to give poets the Also works by: work and literary history." Literature is chance to sing. Poets can be great critics. Guðbjörg Lind Jónsdóttir like Ouroboros, with no discernible be- They can spark things. You give them the Hulda Hákon ginning or end, at least not within any- chance and they will, as Baldwin says, Sara Oskarsson one's living memory. Things, authors, empty oceans with a home-made spoon Kristján Davíðsson Nína Tryggvadóttir stories, forms are constantly recycled and and tear down mountains with their – among others woven into the new narrative. hands." As to where it's going, Haukur Már TVEIR HRAFNAR listhús, Art Gallery can't say. "I wouldn't dare to propose any Baldursgata 12 101 Reykjavík (at the corner of Baldursgata and Nönnugata, facing Þrír Frakkar Restaurant) Phone: +354 552 8822 +354 863 6860 +354 863 6885 [email protected] www.tveirhrafnar.is direction. Anything worth anything will Opening hours: Thu-Fri 12pm - 5pm, Sat 1pm - 4pm and by appointment +354 863 6860 5*$,&54
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Call +354 587 9999 1 The Reykjavík Grapevine ARTMUSIC 22 Issue 17 — 2014 STRAUMUR

Welcome To The New Year

Straumur radio show airs www.straum.is Straumur Mondays on X977 at 23:00

Words Óli Dóri & Davíð Roach By the time this issue hits the streets, we will be halfway through the fourteenth edition of the Iceland Arwaves festival. At the day of publication, Friday November 7, Straumur will be hosting an off-venue show at the independent cinema Bíó Paradís, where Vorhees, Sin Fang and Unknown Mortal Orchestra will perform (in that order!) from 16:15-19:00. Later that same day, we will also be hosting an official Airwaves show at Gaukurinn (starting at 20:00) where, among others, Oyama, Strigaskór Nr. 42, Black Bananas and Fufanu will grace the stage. The off-venue in Bíó Paradís continues throughout the weekend during the daytime, so be sure to drop by.

Iceland Airwaves always sort of feels like Singapore Sling— Place’, whose title song features Jófríður it marks the beginning of a new year on Ákadóttir (Samaris, Pascal Pinon) on the musical calendar, with many musi- ‘The Tower Of Foronicity’ vocals, sounding like the faded whis- cians timing their releases around the perings of a young Björk. The EP sports festival. For your benefit, we’ve sifted two excellent remixes from Ruxpin and through a lot of quality music in the past M-Band, and a couple more instrumen- month, checking out all that new stuff. tal songs in the vein of the experimental Here are some of the highlights! electronica from the Brainfeeder label. Kiasmos—‘Kiasmos’ Singapore Sling is the leatherclad, shades-wearing dark horse of the Reyk- Grísalappalísa—“Strax í dag” javík rock scene, staring with apathy into the ether to the soundtrack of their blar- ing feedback-laden drones. This album is one of their most lo-fi yet, and mixes surging guitars with swaggering rocka- The debut LP from the duo of Ólafur billy and a cool so effortless and full of Arnalds and Bloodgroup’s Janus is full hateful contempt that it permeates every Postpunk pranksters Grísalappalísa just of beautifully rendered tracks that draw inch of the album. released a cover of “Strax í dag,” by one from techno, ambient and neo-classical. of Iceland’s most beloved pop groups: Merging the organic, analogue and digi- Oyama—‘Coolboy’ Stuðmenn. Their treatment is true to the tal, the album deftly navigates extended spirit of the original, although a lot rough- grooves and subtle melodic swifts with er around the edges. great assurance. The best songs remind us quite a bit of Jon Hopkins’s excellent ‘Immunity’—not a small compliment.

Sykur—“Strange Loop” Oyama just released their debut long player last week, it’s called ‘Coolboy’ and it’s a masterpiece of dreamy pop, pedal laden rock freakouts and impeccable songcraft.

Straumur has been active since the sum- Muted—‘Special Place’ EP The latest single from Reykjavík techno- mer of 2012, with writers Óli Dóri and popsters Sykur is a bouncy upbeat elec- Davíð Roach documenting the local mu- tro romp that slows down the tempo sic scene and helping people discover midway in the chorus, which strangely new music at straum.is. It is associated makes it all the more infectious. with the radio show Straumur on X977, which Óli Dóri hosts every Monday eve- ning at 23:00. The left field-leaning producer Muted is releasing the excellent EP ‘Special The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2014 23 MUSIC

Album Reviews Amazing 6 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast

Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ Arctic char Sóley - 'Krómantík' with cucumber andcoriander Morr Music (2014) Smoked puffin with yuzu mayo www.facebook.com/soleysoleysoley Minke whale Sóley blows the dust off some with celeriac purée haunting piano pieces Reindeer burger with portobello mushroom Icelandic free range lamb fillet with cinnamon potato

And to end on a high note .... Sóley’s latest outing, 'Kró- sense of Sóley’s working process. “Skyr“ panna cotta with white chocolate mantík', surprises. The EP While the distant, sometimes out- and raspberry sorbet departs from her usual pop- of-tune piano is evocative, it loses its tinged songwriting, instead delivering mysterious charm rather quickly with- 6.990 kr. a very short collection of ghostly piano out additional visuals to accompany. Hverfisgata music written for several art projects. It These curious and clever piano min- Lækjargata Lækjar- is in essence a multi-soundtrack album, iatures are done a disservice when torg and its title is an appropriate portman- masked by reverb; “Stofuvals” is one of Laugavegur teau that sandwiches together “chro- the least shadowy works, and one can Skólavör matic” and “romantic.” notice the interesting harmonies and Skólastræti

Ingólfsstræti ð Amtmannsstígur ust. All of the tracks on this sixteen- winding lines. It would be interesting to ingholtsstræti Our kitchen is open Þ minute EP revolve around an old pi- hear the pieces alternatively recorded sushisamba 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík ano, seemingly left to go out of tune on a clear, crisp piano, which would 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. Tel 568 6600 • sushisamba.is and gather dust. Each piece channels bring out Sóley’s unique compositional composers known for their piano mu- voice while still referencing their 19th sic, especially the late Romanticists of century classical role models. the 19th century, like Rachmaninoff, 'Krómantik' is a good collection Shostakovich, and Prokofiev. “Stiklur” piece for those who may know of Só- is winding and chromatic; “Kaósmúsik” ley’s music, and evokes images of mu- and “Efterteiti” are macabre dances, sic halls past. But for those looking not out of place in a Tim Burton film. for a more substantial work, we await The titular song “Krómantík” is a bit the next LP. For Sóley, whose previous An absolute more familiar to contemporary ears, works lay in a colorful area between and it builds wordless vocals in lay- genres, these tracks feel ghostly and ers. For those who read music, the pale. sheet music images that appear in the must-try! liner notes will be a bonus, giving you a - NATHAN HALL Saegreifinn restaurant (Sea Baron) is like none other in Iceland; a world famous lobster soup and a diverse fish selection. Open 11:30 -22:00 Worm Is Green - ‘To Them We Are Only Shadows’ ATA:DIGITAL (2014) www.wormisgreen.com Electronic music’s solid foundation saegreifinn.is

‘To Them We Are Only Shad- ity to conform to a gloomy status quo, ows’ is the latest album from as shown in declarative text like, “move veteran Icelandic musicians along/form a single line/your soul is Worm Is Green, a band celebrating its mine” and “stand your ground/don’t let fourteenth year of operation. The group them change you.” uses electronics and samples along with If the variety of sparingly produced vocals, drum pads, and bass to create electronic music and slower tempos is a blend of austere textures, often with refreshing, it does come with a price, as trip-hop influences. On ‘Shadows’, we some sections lack momentum. Many hear a wide range of shifting moods, songs are quite sing-able but can also sometimes even abruptly within indi- seem a bit heavy on trip-hop nostalgia. vidual tracks. Nearly unaccompanied Overall, the album presents itself like a vocals might pause for a moment before live performance, and one wonders if choruses of synths enter; some glitchy Worm Is Green might give audiences beats might follow, only to conclude with denser textures or more dramatic tem- a bass line and backup harmonies. pos when performed on stage. “It is ‘...Shadows’ also offers a surprising time/it is now or never/we need noth- dryness; there are no lengthy echoes ing short of forever”, as they sing “for or delays to the synths or vocals. Singer the last show on Earth.” We’ll keep you Guðríður Ringsteð provides the vocals posted if Bárðarbunga, Ebola, ISIS, etc. on the album, sometimes in unison with might make that final show a reality. a male voice and other times breaking away into harmony. Along with the dry- - NATHAN HALL ness comes darkness, both in brooding instrumentation and through lyrics. One gets the feeling that Worm Is Green seek to highlight humanity’s uncanny abil- The Reykjavík Grapevine The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 LITERATURE 24 Issue 17 — 2014 24

Breakfast Two Days Of Criminal Activity Iceland Noir: it’s happening again!

Brunch

Lunch Iceland Noir The Nordic House November 21-22 icelandnoir.com

Words Quentin Bates

Photos Markús Már Efraím People thought we were nuts at the time, when in reality we were suffering from good old Icelandic gung-ho enthusiasm. This year, we ought to know better. Three of us—Yrsa Sigurðardóttir, Ragnar Jónasson and I—got together last year to organise a small crime fiction festival in Reykjavík. After all, how hard could it be? We had all been to a few of Happy Hour these, and it didn’t look like it could be all that much of a headache.

It had seemed odd to us that Iceland didn’t one, email the trusty Úlfhildur (ulfhildur. the Hverfisgata police station and finish- have its own crime fiction festival. After all, [email protected]) for details. ing up by the library, but this year a whole there are plenty of them elsewhere. Den- new programme for the crime walk has as- mark has a big one, as does Norway. There Intense criminal activity sembled, starting at the Nordic House and are a couple held every year in Britain, taking in locations that feature in crime several in Germany and there are a great There are a few more changes this year. novels by a bunch of Icelandic and visiting many in France, as well as no shortage of To begin with, we invited Lilja Sigurðardót- authors—with some of the writers on hand them in the States. But not Iceland. Like tir to join our informal board of organis- to read excepts from their work at those Sweden, Iceland has plenty of literary stuff ers and her input has been a huge help. very locations. going on, but not crime fiction. We felt it Iceland Noir is also two days this year in- Hot laptops! was time to put Reykjavík on the crime stead of just one, as we figured that with map, in a fictional sense, of course. so many people coming from abroad, we Although we’ve made Iceland Noir bigger needed to offer them more than just one and, we hope, even better this year, it hasn’t Iceland-style day of intense criminal activity. We had Dinner strayed from the original brief, which was been concerned that we might not be able to have a good time with a bunch of like- In fact, we organised last year’s one-day to fill up a two-day schedule; it turns out minded people. It has to be said that those Iceland Noir in record time, a matter of we could probably have filled three. people who sit in a dark room dreaming up months, and it worked out pretty well. We have a fine lineup of local and visit- intrigue and foul murder over a hot laptop It didn’t do any harm that we had some ing crime writers, from the big names of tend to be a bundle of fun when they’re re- great names who agreed to take part; Ann Peter James, David Hewson, Vidar Sund- leased into the daylight. Crime writers like Cleeves can take the credit for getting us støl and Johan Theorin to have a good time and things are never off the ground, as with- to first-time authors dull when they congregate. They buzz with out her instant and un- with some interesting curiosity, imagination and bonhomie, and equivocal “yes” when and challenging new K-Bar is a gastro pub with a Korean, Japa- appear to have an innate sense of direc- we enquired whether INFO ideas, ranging from tion for the nearest convivial bar. nese, Icelandic inspired kitchen and quirky she’d go to Iceland in those writing tradition- Reykjavík is fortunate to have a very di- the middle of winter for al whodunits, to some cocktails. We have eight icelandic craft Iceland Noir, November 21-22 at the verse crowd of visitors who will be here for a new crime festival, we of the hardest-boiled beers on tap and over 100 types in bottles. Nordic House, Reykjavík. a few days in November, starting with the might not have been so crime writers about, Icelandic Crime Syndicate’s annual read- Open all day from breakfast to late night quick off the mark. to those with a super- ing night at Sólon on the 20th (doors open Then there was Ar- natural tone to their snacks. K-Bar is located at Laugavegur 74. Details at www.icelandnoir.com, at 8pm), with a scattering of visiting writ- naldur Indriðason, the work. Crime fiction is or you can find them on Face- ers among the Syndicate’s members. Ask your reception how to find us or find us king of Icelandic crime a remarkably broad book. For further info, contact My personal list of what to look for- on facebook.com/kbarreykjavik fiction. The lineup was church, with plenty to [email protected]. Tickets ward to? Norwegian writer Hans Olav already looking good choose from. are available from Úlfhildur (ulfhil- Lahlum, Guinness world record holder with the crime writers As well as the Ice- [email protected]) at the for the longest interview (30 hours, one we had press-ganged landic crime writers Reykjavík City Library. minute and 44 seconds) is on two panels. into making the trip to taking part in two days Louise Millar, Craig Robertson and James Iceland, but there was of panels and discus- Oswald are coming from Scotland, each a sudden flurry of ad- sion, there’s a very var- with their own outlook on crime fiction, ditional interest when we were able to an- ied crowd visiting for Iceland Noir, mainly and Craig’s latest book is set in the Faroe nounce that he’d be taking part last year. from Britain, but also from Norway, Swe- Islands—probably the first time an outsider Now, the second Iceland Noir is about den and Finland, one from Greenland, one has set a crime story there. Then there’s to take place at Reykjavík’s Nordic House, from Romania, a few from the US, and a the new blood, a panel of debut authors, on the 21st and 22nd of November. At the writing partnership from South Africa. each of them with an exciting new story moment there are a few seats left. Being They all bring their own unique take on to tell. We’ll undoubtedly be hearing more able to use Nordic House has made it all things, and a perspective on their home from AK Benedict, David Swatling, Sverrir possible, but it is limited in size. As we countries, or those countries they write Berg and Sarah Ward in the future, but you daren’t bust the max capacity, and as we about—the two aren’t always the same. saw them first at Iceland Noir. need to cover the cost of the coffee and Úlfhildur Dagsdóttir and the Reykjavík the programme, this year we’ve also had to City Library are taking part with a crime charge a festival fee. Tickets are available walk through the city streets. Last year at the Reykjavík City Library—if you’d like was the Erlendur crime walk, starting at NOW WITH SUBTITLES! Special Airwaves’ hangover screening at noon, Saturday November 8. WOW: the first two who bring a 25 FILM copy of this article to Bíó Paradís get in for free (+1!)

INTER VIEW

The Attack Of Comic Realism And the counter-attack of ignorant authorities Hafsteinn Gunnarsson, director of París Norðursins, interviewed

Words Haukur Már Helgason @burgerjoint Photos Hörður Sveinsson

Hafsteinn Gunnar Sigurðsson's second feature film, ‘París Reykjavík Norðursins’, or ‘Paris of the North’, revolves around a 37-year- Köbenhavn old man, disoriented, as it seems, after a breakup, and his Selfoss relations to various people, not least of all his chaos-factory of a father. While the son fled his hardships into a small town on the countryside, the father seems to have fled all over the place—last stop: Thailand.

The father comes for a visit just at the Untold stories start of the son's summer vacation, boozes, and flirts with a woman the son Your films seem to belong among a had intermittently been involved with. few other recent works, in advanc- ing a new realism. Baldvin Z, even The male animal Benedikt Erlingsson, come to mind, although the subtle sense of humor The film touches on various themes. It you share with Benedikt makes it is a comedy of sorts, but a quiet, subtle tempting to speak of realist comedies one. I asked the director about its re- rather than realism pure and simple. lations to earlier Icelandic comedies, Do you see yourself as member of a many of which have focused on disori- generation of filmmakers meeting ented male figures. Hafsteinn replied: new challenges? Or is your journey "You mention Þór and Danni from purely one man's affair? the ‘Líf’-series. That's not out of the "I absolutely sense a new generation of blue in relation to ‘Either Way’ [his first filmmakers, male and female, entering the feature, 2011]. That one happens in the scene. Perhaps the works of these people 80s, of course, and is in many ways an strike a more realist note than what came ode to that period's filmmaking, the before. It will be exciting to observe what films I grew up with. ‘Paris of the North’ happens in Icelandic filmmaking in the continues examining manhood and re- years ahead. So many stories remain un- lations between men, but in a different told, so many formal experiments are yet to and perhaps a bit more dramatic mode be made. A certain wave has started. Cur- than ‘Either Way’. ‘Paris of the North’ rently, local cinemas are screening seven focuses on the relation between father Icelandic films, which is a record. This can and son and various sides of father- be related to the last government's deci- hood. Certainly these characters are sion to support the creative field and boost confused and flawed, which may be the Icelandic Film Fund. The current gov- archetypal for how unsettled the male ernment has cancelled those investment animal seems to be after the changes plans and cut the Film Fund's budget se- gender roles have undergone in previ- verely. The effects are already felt. To ad- ous decades. Hopefully my films are a vance further still, Icelandic cinema needs bit more realist than some of the com- investment. In that sense my generation is, edies you mentioned." sadly, fighting similar challenges as earlier ones: ignorant authorities." The film is to some extent a com- Hafsteinn mentions that the first all- ing-of-age story. It also seems to Icelandic feature film was made in 1977 have symbolic side to it, such as and the Film Fund was only established the near-literal castration of the the following year. "It's so young. And per- father. Do you think of it as a par- haps only now, this field is finding out what able? it is and where it wants to go. Now, a lot "No, I don't. It certainly is a story of knowledge and skill has been amassed, of growth of both father and son, who both technical and in terms of ideas, and to some extent reject maturity. But to- the field is realizing its potential. It would wards the end you can glimpse some be disastrous if the only thing lacking hope that they might advance a bit." turns out to be the political decision to se- riously invest in the field." The Reykjavík Grapevine DANCE 26 Issue 17 — 2014

Make sure it’s Elding! INTER VIEW

Call us on +354 519 5000 or visit www.elding.is

WHALES & DOLPHINS The Legs Show from Reykjavik all year round Elding Whale Watching schedule Dancer and choreographer EL-01 / EL-02 / EL-03 Jan-Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov-Dec 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 Brian Gerke on Emotional 10:00 10:00 10:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 17:00* 17:00 17:00 17:00 17:00* 20:30** 20:30 DANCE * From 15 May to 15 September PREVIEW ** From 15 June to 31 July

Words Grayson Del Faro www.elding.is Photo GOLLI Brian Gerke joined the Iceland Dance Company in 2012, having been teaching at List- dansskóli Íslands since 2007. Just two years later, his first solo piece of choreography has premiered as one half of a show called ‘Emotional’. It is a double-feature show comprised NORTHERN of Brian’s performance, ‘Meadow’, accompanied by ‘EMO1994’, a piece by Norwegian cho- reographer Ole Martin Meland. Sitting in the small cafeteria behind the scenes at Borgar- LIGHTS CRUISE leikhúsið, Brian walked me along the long road he took in choreographing ‘Meadow’ and dancing in ‘EMO1994’.

Dancers: assemble! Finding the meadow and I’ve asked them to shave—I was going for androgynous.”

So was Ole. Brian describes his dance “Generally, I just love dance,” he begins. “I So he started small. “I wanted to make solo in ‘EMO1994’: “To use Ole’s word, mean dancey dance, like kicking, turning, an abstract dance for these amazing per- there’s something ‘queer’ about my solo spinning, physical, sweaty, virtuosic dance. formers. If it was all about the movement, at the end. I’m hooded in this puffy thing So I wanted to make a piece that I would I didn’t want to do tricks or rely on cool- that deforms my body but so are the girls. want to be in and that showed what these ness. I wanted to do something simple, I’m wearing red lipstick and my midriff is dancers could do.” maybe a bit naïve.” bare, but the movement isn’t feminine.” He Ma But it wasn’t easy at first. “When I He was visiting his hometown of Mis- ke sure pauses here, adding, “At least it doesn’t it joined the company, I had an identity cri- soula, Montana when the work really ’s Elding! read that way because it’s also quite vio- sis because everyone else was so talented became ‘Meadow’. “Walking through a lent.” and original—I saw ev- super dense forest, you erything they could do Find all the Iceland can turn and suddenly that I couldn’t,” he says. come upon a lake or a The legs show “It took a full year of me Dance Company meadow. I know it’s such Daily departures from 15 September breaking down and try- info you need—in- a hippie-dippy word, but It’s not just the costumes that work with ing to quit before I real- that sensation is just androgyny, but the choreography as well. Call us on +354 519 5000 ized: I too am unique. I cluding showtimes— ‘magical,’ like a freaking He feels that traditional gender roles, or visit www.elding.is shouldn’t try to be them, I at www.id.is Disney film. Like Alice in “even in contemporary narrative dance, should let them be them Wonderland and all the are a waste of talent.” Female dancers and let me be me.” weird animals that live have too much skill to be treated only like “Which is where there.” small, delicate beings to be flung about, I came up with this: So he had stum- while male dancers simply “lift and ges- we’re like X-Men,” he bled into a setting, but ture, lift and gesture. We were not doing exclaims. Here, we both who he found there was that. The only lifts in the entire show are lean in excitedly, Ameri- still a mystery. “I was a woman lifting a woman,” he points out. cans geeking out a little working with ‘Imperfect “We often joked that this was ‘The about comics. “We have Instrument’ and ‘Mead- Legs Show’ because both pieces have lots Storm and Wolverine and Nightcrawler ow’ ,” he says. “I wasn’t sure yet if they of legs,” he admits with a laugh. “Even the and Shadowcat and all of that. But no one were X-Men, or mythological creatures concept of legs, like ‘gams,’ is feminized. has all the powers. Each is different. So I that don’t exist, or what. But I had the in- But there is power in them also, with thought it’s so strange to practice ballet spiration for the movement: the creature, women, and the men move just as subtly. every day, trying to be the same, when re- the animal, the superhero. From there, it Not all things are just one thing, or even ally, the majestic part of ourselves is our started to roll.” two things.” This concept runs palpably uniqueness.” Something “queer” through the entirety of ‘Emotional’. This was the birth of the piece's work- “I would love to continue working in ing title: ‘Imperfect Instrument’. “None of that way,” he says, concluding, “I think it’s That explains the intended subject, but he us are perfect and we are instruments just much more interesting to see that.” discovered another along the way. Both when we’re tools for choreography,” he dances challenge, as he says, “one topic explains, adding that he doesn’t believe of heteronormative dance.” That is, gen- imperfection to have a negative connota- der. “And in the most obvious ways,” he tion. “It just means ‘unique.’” explains. “The men are wearing makeup The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2014 27 DANCE Dancing To The Heartbeat

Hlynur Páll Pálsson discusses the Reykjavík Dance Festival DANCE PREVIEW

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Words Grayson Del Faro

Photo GOLLI The Reykjavík Dance Festival has changed nearly as much as the art of dance itself in its twelve years of existence. But a change of directors and board members this spring has brought on much more drastic changes to its scope and concept for coming years. In con- versation with the Grapevine, managing director Hlynur Páll Pálsson explained how.

Grísalappalísa. Choreographers Alexander Creating a pulse Queering the popular Roberts and Ásrún Magnúsdóttir have studied the musicians’ live performances When the concept began, there was not Each incarnation has a different concept. and choreographed dances for them to a dance program at Iceland Academy of August’s focused entirely on works by perform based on their own stage pres- Since opening in 1965 Arts, or many independent dance com- Icelanders. “Queering the popular” is the ences. Hlynur elaborates: “What they do The Gallery Restaurant panies. Hlynur says that RDF’s beginnings concept November’s performances will onstage with the bands is a dance. But were “basically a grassroots thing: people tackle. now it’s being focused into a solo with no in Hotel Holt has been making a festival for themselves to show “Pop culture is continually citing itself, band—just them, moving.” their works in Iceland.” It took off from creating itself, and redesigning its iden- the premier destination there. “It’s been growing tity,” Hlynur says. “That’s You don’t have to in the past twelve years, “That’s what art is: what art is: challenging for fine dining in Iceland almost exponentially. normality. We’re fans of be drunk to dance Both in audience num- challenging nor- taking normal things and ber and in the amount of mality. We’re fans twisting them around “Where does dance end and the other works shown.” to get people to rethink arts begin?” he asks me. “We’re continu- The restaurant offers Icelandic Hlynur is no stranger of taking normal them and reshape them- ally trying to figure out what this thing that to performance. Work- selves.” Using the Ice- we enjoy watching and doing really is. Christmas lunch and dinner ing for years as a stage things and twisting landic word “snertiflö- Because RDF is not only about watching and production manager them around to get tur,” or “touch point,” he dance, it’s also about getting people to from the 21st of November at Borgarleikhúsið, he explains that each piece dance.” In August, one event took place people to rethink in the homes of dancer Ásrún and her stepped into his direc- either explicitly or subtly 3 course lunch menu torship at RDF in April, them and reshape touches on the nebulous neighbours. In the middle of the day, each alongside new creative topic of pop culture. played their favourite music and opened 5500 ISK directors Alexander Rob- themselves.” In addition to chal- their doors to strangers to come and erts and Ásgerður G. lenging concepts of pop dance with them. Gunnarsdóttir. “We felt the August festival culture in the upcoming festival, RDF has “People are realizing that you don’t 5 course dinner menu had become as big as it could get,” he said, always been pushing the limits of the art have to be drunk to dance,” Hlynur says. “we wanted to expand into four festivals form of dance. The new schedule reflects Because Reykjavík Dance Festival is not 9500 ISK instead.” this. There’s “danceoke,” where music necessarily about the brain. Alongside the Rather than one ten-day festival in videos with iconic dances are played and “heartbeat” of four festivals per year, this is August, they planned two larger festivals people attempt to dance along. There’s a why the brochures for their August festival Tuesday - Saturday in May and August, with shorter festivals “heated debate” where both dancers and centred on the design of a human heart. open 12 - 2pm and 6 - 10:30pm in November and February to keep dance audiences are invited to swim together “You’re not trying to understand stuff,” he in the city’s consciousness more regularly. and discuss dance in the hot tubs at Sund- says. “You’re just taking it in, the emotions closed Sundays and Mondays or the beauty or the ugliness or whatever “Before, everyone came together only höll Reykjavíkur. There are also events that Gallery Restaurant - Hótel Holt once a year,” he explains. “We wanted bring dance to radio and film. you see.” Bergstaðastræti 37, 101 Reykjavík to create a pulse, like a heartbeat of the One event features particularly unique “Of course it can get you thinking,” he dance scene.” performances by the lead singers of three adds, “but to us, it’s also about the heart.” Tel: +354 552 5700 iconic Icelandic bands: Unnsteinn of Retro www.holt.is - gallery holt.is Stefson, Kata of Mammút, and Gunnar of Accommodation provided by Hótel Ísafjörður, book Car provided by Hertz car rental, The Reykjavík Grapevine Flights to Ísafjörður provided by Air Iceland, book accommodation at www.hotelisafjordur.is or call book car at www.hertz.is TRAVEL 28 Issue 17 — 2014 flight at www.airiceland.is or call +354-5703000. +354-4564111

How to get there: If you're driving, take road 1 North, turn onto road 60, and then again onto road 61 until you Westfjords get to Ísafjörður (use a map, follow directions, watch out for weather conditions). You can also fly directly from Reykjavík via Air Iceland: book your tickets online at www.flugfelag.is.

Words Melissa Coci Photos Anna Domnick Winter When I set off on a Westfjords adventure in early November, I never expected it to be such an educational experience. But, it was. What I learned was the utter futility of trying to defy the elements, how one must sometimes just surrender to the Westfjords And environment. City slickers heading to the Westfjords in win- tertime, heed this warning: you are not in control. The forces of nature are. And that’s fine. The Art Of Zen Learning to lose control on the outskirts of Iceland...

When it comes to tourism, November is trappings. Condoms, guitar amps, ice cream predictability of the area had already hit ger. This sort of behaviour would repeat definitely the off-season for the north- After showing my planned itinerary me—and I was hooked. itself throughout the weekend, the locals ern Westfjords, just a few skips from to a friend who grew up in Ísafjörður, the The nature of the beast became appar- The first view of the fjords as our plane constantly going out of their way to be as Greenland. Some might say this is for region’s capital, he filled me in on what ent before Grapevine photographer Anna made its descent had me quite literally helpful as possible. good reason. Up there, the weather gods would become the theme of the trip: in and I even made it up there. A scheduled gasping. As the clouds parted, we were As we approached the town of rule. And boy do they love winter. Luck- the Westfjords, you have to be flexible, Friday morning flight to Ísafjörður was greeted with pristine waters, black sands, Ísafjörður proper, we were struck by the ily, the idea of not having to worry about you have to go with the flow. Without cancelled due to snowfall and wild winds. snowy mountains, and even a rainbow. natural beauty in which it sits—inlets, crowds or being cajoled into some kind much warning, the weather can ground There would be no flights that day. By Sat- The kindness of every local we encoun- mountains and an almost ominous num- of adventure hike by a well-meaning flights, close roads, cut off electricity and urday morning, we’d grudgingly accepted tered once in town would prove just as ber of ravens. After an extended period of friend appeals to me greatly. It was with render any plan or schedule useless. And that the trip wasn’t going to happen, re- shockingly pleasant. The stage was set as time just standing around and gawking at this attitude that I eagerly made a list of there is simply no point in getting worked signing ourselves to yet another day of soon as we landed, when an airport em- Mother Nature’s majesty, hunger eventu- “must-dos” in the region and packed my up over this. You need to take it as it coffee and pools in Reykjavík. At midday, ployee moonlighting as a car rental agent ally got us moving, so we headed to Ham- warmest of jackets for a relaxed, fun- comes, and try to enjoy the ride. however, the airline announced that our (in true Icelandic fashion) offered to drive raborg, widely regarded as “Iceland’s best filled three-day trip, free from touristic flight would depart in an hour. The un- to his house to lend me his phone char- kiosk.”

EXPLORING ICELAND, THE FAROE ISLANDS OR GREENLAND

IT´S EASY WITH AIR ICELAND GRÍMSEY ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI GREENLAND

ITTOQQORTOORMIIT EGILSSTAÐIR ILULISSAT ICELAND

NUUK

KULUSUK REYKJAVÍK

NARSARSUAQ

FAROE ISLANDS TÓRSHAVN The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2014 29 TRAVEL

Distance from Reykjavík Around 450 km

from Ísafjörður. Opt- cepted our fate, opting to go along with ability it demands of its denizens). ing to explore more whatever the day might bring. Ísafjörður Ísafjörður instead of In the end, our trusty pals at www. I’ll be back risking a drive, we vegagerdin.is made our decision easy. The facts: wandered through only roads safe to drive (particularly for The highlights of our Westfjords trip oc- town as the sun went outsiders who are not at all used to local curred right at the end of it. After pass- Population: down. conditions) were the ones to the neigh- ing a small pod of wild seals en route, we 2,540 Perhaps we took bouring towns of Flateyri and Súðavík. arrived at Heydalur valley, nestled in the Distance from Reykjavik: that whole going- While this wiped out half of our planned fjord of Mjóifjörður. The valley is home to 450 KM with-the-flow idea itinerary, having but a few simple destina- an adorable, family-run guesthouse and Average temperature in No- too far that night tion options to choose from was kind of restaurant that both come highly recom- vember : 2.6°C to -1.3°C when we accepted nice for a change. mended by those in the know. Resisting Average temperature in De- an invitation from The drive to Súðavík, while a little slip- the urge to book a night at the guesthouse Westfjords And cember : 1.2 °C to -3.1°C Ísafjörður Mayor Gís- pery, was absolutely stunning. This is no and explore the area properly (our flight li Halldór Halldórs- hyperbole: the fjords came off as majestic to Reykjavík was regrettably only a couple son to attend the lo- beings transported from Antarctica, leav- of hours away), we opted for lunch at the ...the only road cal Kiwanis charter’s ing us in awe of the power of nature. While restaurant. And what a delight that was! deemed to be in “will annual “svið feast” Súðavík’s main attraction, the Arctic Fox After slurping down some hearty (and (“svið” are seared Centre, was closed (surprise, surprise), we affordable!) soup made by the friendly not lead to your slip- sheep heads). The got our fix of the local fauna from the de- Stella, I was sorely tempted to order one pery doom” conditions event was a quint- lightful sheep we encountered while there. of everything on the menu. And vegetar- was the one that lead essential example of They serenely dug through the snow to ians rejoice, one of Heydalur’s employees, Icelandic hospitality. eat the grass below, unfazed by the frigid Elíse, is a vegetarian, ensuring plenty of to the neighbouring The hosts, particu- conditions and the crashing waves of the veg- friendly menu options. She is also hamlet of Bolungarvík, larly club president ocean beside them. It served to underline happy to answer any questions you may Gunnlaugur Gunn- nature’s way of adapting to challenges, have about the resident cockatoo, dog a full thirteen-minute laugsson, went out rather than fighting them, which is some- and rehabilitated arctic foxes they regu- drive from Ísafjörður. of their way to make thing many humans might take to heart. larly host at Heydalur. Leaving the resort us feel welcome. I Bearing that in mind, I managed to not behind to catch our flight proved incred- was gifted an ex- throw a tantrum when we learned that the ibly difficult—with two pools, friendly pets pensive bottle of red road to Flateyri had become too treacher- and a plethora of wintertime activities to wine, simply for be- ous to travel just as we were making our get up to, Heydalur is clearly a great stop- ing a visiting “Brit- way there. over in the Westfjords. ish journalist” (close Even though it nearly gave my time- enough). Even the On the road conscious friend a heart attack, I couldn’t puffin hunter guy we resist a quick dip at Hörgshlíðarlaug, one sat next to seemed kind enough, despite On our third and last day, the blankets of of the many natural pools the Westfjords constantly boasting of how many puffins snow had melted away. The universe had has to offer. While enjoying a soothing he’d killed throughout his career. rewarded our patience with a pink sun- bathe, and gazing out at the snow flecked Goaded on by our hosts’ warmth and rise (Thanks Holuhraun!) over beautiful mountains and calm fjord, I firmly decided jovial nature, we had no choice but to mountains, with a smattering of clouds that I would be back. Sooner than later. Entering the shop-cum-restaurant if you ever have the chance. partake in the heaping platters of seared rendering the fjord's inlet a deep blue. The Considering it was the region’s off- was an assault on the senses. On that sheep heads on offer, getting a first taste roads finally clear and safe, we immedi- season, there was still so much to see, rainy Saturday afternoon, it felt like half Feasting on face of this local delicacy. The verdict: quite ately drove off. even if most of it was covered in snow. the town had gathered in there under the good, if you can look past the fact that As we made our way through the fjords Unlike most of Iceland, the winter season watchful yet friendly gaze of proprietor Hyped up on sugar, we were determined you’re basically eating a face. that make up the Ísafjarðardjúp fjord— here has yet to be invaded by hordes of Úlfur Þór Úlfarsson. Hamraborg is truly to explore the town and its surroundings. Álftafjörður, Seyðisfjörður, Skötufjörður, tourists, and it likely never will be. But for stuffed with stuff, offering most everything Of course, the weather had the final say. Winter wonderland Hestfjörður and Mjóifjörður—we became the adventurous, for those willing to be one could ever want or need in a town like A quick visit to the Icelandic Road and increasingly exhilarated by the surround- flexible and give up the human folly of Ísafjörður: from Fender guitar amps and Coastal Administration’s absolutely crucial The next day, I woke up to find Ísafjörður ings we traversed, mouths often agape needing to feel in control at all times, the flavoured condoms, to milk, beer and website, www.vegagerdin.is, revealed that had turned into a twinkling winter won- for minutes at a time. Further adding to Westfjords in winter is an excellent get- various electronics. While the fast food we the only road deemed to be in “will not lead derland. Instead of getting worked up over our sense of wonder was how quickly the away. enjoyed there was firmly up to the greasy to your slippery doom” conditions was the the fact that our plan to explore the fur- weather and road conditions had turned standards of its category, the ice cream one that lead to the neighbouring hamlet thest ranges of the region (via our trusty around, the stark contrast highlighting the was truly next level. You should try some, of Bolungarvík, a full thirteen-minute drive rental car) was doomed, we serenely ac- adaptability of the region (and the adapt-

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FOR THE BEST PRICE BOOK ONLINE AT: AIRICELAND.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine TRAVEL 30 Issue 17 — 2014

How to get there: Adrenalíngarðurinn is 40 km out of Reykjavík, The Adrenaline Park and is open all year round. You can book tickets at www.adrenalin.is, Distance from Reykjavík or by calling (+354) 414-2910. Around 40 km Wrestling With Your

At the Adrenaline Park, Own Fear we overcome

Words Tómas Gabríel Benjamin And then, when I leave the safety of the platform and take the second step, Photos Matthew Eisman the fear recedes. I feel the bridge sway, but it’s not as distressing. With each step the fear lessens, and when I reach the I can feel the sun shining gently on my skin, hear a stream next platform, I feel an endorphin rush. I of warm water flowing from the nearby Nesjavallavirkjun had conquered the first trial, and perhaps geothermal power station, and see the big and majestic more importantly, a part of myself that I hadn’t known existed. lake Þingvallavatn spread before me. I think to myself: “I And then I see the next obstacles, a would really appreciate this scenery, were I not elevated ten series of small wooden blocks suspended through the middle. How can they support metres from the ground.” my weight? Are my legs long enough to reach from one pad to the next? What if Adrenalíngarðurinn (“The Adrenaline I fall? What if this line isn’t strong enough Park”) is an amusement park for adults: Paralysis of analysis and I plummet to my death? What if… an obstacle course that offers 45 ob- stacles on three levels for those willing to Our instructor, Sölvi Þór Jónasson, had Clip in and keep moving step outside of their comfort zone. I chose carefully led us through all the park’s to go straight up to the top floor, because safety precautions and shown us how Each obstacle invites the same thought I wanted the “authentic to clip our harnesses process: fear as I overanalyse the prob- experience.” Of course, correctly, so that if lem, then relief when I just get on with I was kicking myself INFO we were to fall, we it. I venture through a bridge made out over my decision as wouldn’t plummet to of rope hoops and suspended wooden I hesitantly began Adrenalíngarðurinn features a our death. beams, cross a tightrope with steady crossing the first ob- variety of obstacles, including Testing the system rings every few steps, and traverse over a stacle, a rope bridge numerous kinds of rope bridges a half metre from the slippery-looking wooden log, facing each with two out of every of varying difficulties, a swing ground, it all seemed challenge with more confidence, until three steps missing. that starts twelve metres from the easy and safe, even they just become playful tests of agility. I told myself I was ground, a climbing wall, a zip line, though I’d heard of For the most part, Sölvi sits back on waiting for our pho- and a slackline. The course takes people in the past get- the ground level, sipping his hot choco- tographer, Matt, to get an estimated three hours to com- ting injured. I came late, watching our group calmly, as a par- into a good position for plete. Tickets go for 6,900 ISK. mentally prepared to ent would its children at the playground. a shot. In reality, I was leap, run and climb At the end of it, he tells us they get a lot mostly just second- through the course, of company outings, school trips, and stag guessing whether I had but standing on the and hen dos, but that he’s only ever had clipped in my safety platform I found the to climb up and save one person that got line properly. real obstacle was my stuck. “It’s not any more complicated than When Matt finally own fear. moving forward and pulling yourself up makes it up, I curse Having run out of when you fall,” he says. under my breath and excuses, I take the first My fearful past-self wished he had think that the park’s step and feel the whole told us that before we started. name is a misnomer, as the only thing bridge move terrifyingly from side to side I’m feeling is an overwhelming sense of as I put my weight on it. I clutch onto the dread. What if I fall and my harness works, railing, and experience something akin to but I end up snapping my neck? What if? vertigo as I look down below. LAKE MÝVATN WINTER TOUR

DISCOVER THE NORTH FOR ONLINE BOOKINGS - WWW.SBA.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 17 — 2014 31 LEFTOVERS

November 9 There was one in Germany a while Continues from P.06 back. It had more in common with A conservative’s mojo lies in eas- Iceland than data collection and po- the psalm poet, "most would rather ily equalling their own preservation lice surveillance of people’s political not think through" was then in fact an- with the preservation of civilization views. This coming Sunday, the West swered in action: When police officers as such: the preservation of actual and will celebrate November 9 as the 25th found themselves in this frightening innocent people leading their honest, anniversary of a rebellion against the position, protesters themselves formed peaceful and prosperous lives, against authority of concrete slabs known as a human shield around them, to pro- a nameless, unholy and frantic mob, the Berlin Wall. That wall was sup- tect them from any rocks that might be ready to harm those creatures of de- posed to defend the State’s integrity thrown. That frantic mob. light at any opportunity. The Left. and good intentions against dissi- That is not to say that, back in 2009, Morgunblaðið provides this world- dents. no one meant to frighten authorities. view. In spades. It is too coherent and Incidentally, November 9 is also The clear intention of the whole move- too self-assured to ignore. The editor the day of the above-mentioned Gúttó- ment was to demonstrate that the people speaks on behalf of those in power, fight. This coming Sunday marks its would not tolerate a government accept- only a little more freely than they do, 82nd anniversary. That day, the work- ing no responsibility for lies, corruption, now that he doesn’t share their re- ers won. Then, they went home. No one failed plans, a failed ideology, and pre- sponsibilities. was killed. Subsequently, the workers’ dictably dire consequences. We are all If Iceland had not already accepted demands were met. Wages were not still living out the consequences of the a chronic state of cognitive dissonance reduced, as had been proposed. That economic crash. We will for a while. as its predicament, Davíð Oddsson and was good. As Jón Baldvinsson, social- That winter, however, for weeks his opinions would have no currency ist and member of Alþingi in 1932, upon weeks, every single can of skyr and today. When the country’s wealthi- noted after the fight, there is nothing raw egg hurled at the house of Alþingi est woman bought Morgunblaðið at a wrong about the police being defeated was a logical demonstration of the post-crash discount from a national- every now and then. peaceful means employed to demand ized—that is, publicly owned—bank, It happened again January 21, change: I am not a stone, every commod- and handed the reigns to Davíð, not 2009. That was not merely good, it was ity shouted as it flew. I could be a stone, I every reader cancelled their subscrip- necessary. A state by the people and ORIGINALLY am angry enough to be a stone, and I am tion. Hardcore Independence Party for the people cannot be armed to the right enough to be a stone, and still I am members remain. Morgunblaðið is teeth against the people. A state that not. This has been called a revolution. It their mouthpiece. aims at invincibility against its own BITTER was not, but it was an effective uprising. Obviously, Morgunblaðið’s edito- population, and will tolerate protests The skyr really scared them. rial is factually wrong. It is also politi- only as long as they are sure not to There is, however, more than one cally wrong, and not in the traditional achieve anything, is not, fundamen- side to fear. Our current dilemma mir- sense. tally, a democratic state, but a fascist rors the third stage in the familiar se- Davíð Oddsson used to consider one. quence of responses to fear: First au- himself liberal. He now expresses a Return the guns. thorities froze, then they fled. Now they desire for the state to be invincible. want to fight. Only failed states harbour such de- sires. Such states have come and gone.

not conveying their intentions clearly thinks Chaplas may have been treated Continues from P.10 enough, as one went to fetch prongs differently because of his skin colour to cut the plastic straps, while another and nationality. However, his friend could take up to twelve months to heal. proceeded to use a knife, to the afore- Lillý was not so modest, claiming that After being treated for his immediate mentioned effect. Following this, an in- many foreigners are systematically dis- wounds, Chaplas says he was made to ternal memo has been passed to every criminated against in Iceland. wait in a holding cell until morning, be- officer, asserting that correct protocol “Chaplas has been met with a lot of fore being released without charge. for removing plastic straps bars the use hostility, and I know of many other cas- of a knife. es where the police have arrested black Getting a helping hand Hörður tells me that the investiga- people without any justification,” she tion revealed that Chaplas had indeed says. “Even though many people would His long-term friend, Lillý Mikaela asked to speak with a lawyer when he like to believe otherwise, we live in an Hreinsdóttir Miðfjörð, came over to was detained. The officers’ failure to incredibly racist society.” pick him up and describes over the abide his wishes was the result of mis- phone how she had never seen Chaplas understanding or mistake, says Hörður, in such a broken-down state. “He was further hypothesising that after the in- An uncertain conclusion just sitting there, wearing nothing but jury occurred, normal procedure went his boxers and a t-shirt, covered in his out the window. Almost three weeks after initially own blood,” she says. Hörður asserts that Chaplas was in- meeting Chaplas, I visit him again with Lillý says she noted a radical change formed that he was being arrested for our photographer. He’s starting to be in Chaplas’s behaviour over the follow- staying illegally in the country, and that able to walk short distances without a ing weeks—an easy-going person by police had been searching for him since crutch, and looks healthier, but conveys nature, he was noticeably afraid of be- July. Chaplas’s heated reactions then to me that many still don’t believe what ing around strangers according to her. set in motion the chain of events that happened to him. “People say that they Indeed, he initially refused to meet me followed. can’t believe the police would cut and for the interview without having Lillý However, the officers involved have hurt me,” he confides, “but I want ev- present. not been punished for the incident. eryone to understand what is going on.” The physical injuries have made it “We’ve gone over the matter with the While he waits to see if he’ll get his difficult for Chaplas to go anywhere staff in question,” he says, “and as far as day in court, the facts of the matter— by himself. “I drive him to the doctors, I know they won’t face any further con- “the known knowns,” to quote Rums- his lawyer, and anywhere else he has to sequences.” He added that the police feld—tell a pretty compelling story: a go,” she says. “He’s now completely de- will answer for what happened, but not man is arrested, protocol is breached, pendent on the goodwill of others.” through the media, as the case is still his human rights are not respected, and Rendered unable to earn a living on-going. in addition to his reputation being tar- through collecting recyclables, Chap- Over email, lawyer Þórsteinn Gun- nished, he suffers physically and emo- las now gets his food from the Fjöls- narsson, a division manager at the Ice- tionally at the hands of the police. kylduhjálp (“Family Aid”) food bank. landic Directorate of Immigration, said If we take the fiasco at face value, Lillý says she tries to help him with he couldn’t comment on individual cas- as a series of unintentional accidents, it other financial needs, but admits that es, but noted that the directorate only goes to show that there are not enough as a mother of four, there’s not much asked police to deliver a notice to indi- checks in place to protect citizens’ she can do. viduals that have overstayed their stay, rights, which is troubling news if the not to arrest them. Those notified gen- police are indeed getting unprecedent- Admitting fault erally have 5-30 days to leave the coun- ed access to firepower in the near fu- try before being deported, although ex- ture (see more on that on page six). Two weeks after my meeting with tenuating circumstances may warrant This foul-up confirms that police Chaplas, Hörður Jóhannesson from the an extension. mistakes can have dire results, as is ap- office of the National Commissioner of Currently, Chaplas and his lawyer, parent from Chaplas’s limp. Hopefully the Icelandic Police agrees to answer Hreiðar Eiríksson, are in the process of some good can come from this unfor- my questions over email. He says that negotiating with the police. “If a settle- tunate series of events, if the police an internal investigation determined ment can’t be reached, we’ll have to indeed use the opportunity to revise that Chaplas’s injuries were the result take the matter to the courts,” Hreiðar their procedures and learn from their of a communication failure; that the tells me over the phone. mistakes. police assume full responsibility for Hreiðar adds that the police has yet Chaplas’s injuries and are currently to provide him with a reason for Chap- working on an out-of-court settlement las’s arrest, and brings into question with his lawyer. whether restraining him was neces- Hörður says that the accidental sary to hand him a simple letter. He was stabbing was a result of two officers unwilling to comment on whether he The Reykjavík Grapevine FOOD 32 Issue 17 — 2014 Read the full menu and learn more about JaJaJa at www.jajajamusic.com Gothic Wolffish Cheeks in JaJaJaland Emiliana Torrini and Chef Antto Melasniemi (formerly of HIM) made us dinner

Words Ragnar Egilsson Photos Axel Sigurðarson

A relentlessly cheerful Icelandic pop musician and a brood- ing Finnish wunderkind of the Nordic food scene (and for- mer keyboardist for goth rock band HIM) traverse Iceland to source ingredients for an intimate banquet in a nondescript apartment to promote a music festival in London.

The festival is called JaJaJa, a pan-Nordic ing up cod cheeks with chive hollandaise. nature. I like to leave it up to nature. Maybe “I went to work in Paris, London, Am- Emilíana seems to share this approach. music festival featuring the best and the Antto is a large man, and he would have to also because I’m a bit lazy. It’s freeing, you sterdam. In London I worked at a place “There’s so much demand on people now. brightest of the Nordic music scene, held be, since he seems to be filled with every just go with the flow. It’s almost like a reli- which was a hellhole. A huge place, with They want you be making food made November 13-15 in London’s Mile End. Finnish stereotype I could think of. Stern gion.” mice and cockroaches running around from comet dust, or Kate Moss sweat ice The festival will culminate in a Nordic food of face, sparing of words, hung of overs, and if you left your knife to go to the toi- cream.” Antto: “I would actually love to do feast sprung from the loins of chef Antto cholic of melans, and brandishing a sharp Dish 3: Langoustine with fennel let someone would steal it. Very old, very a dish from Kate Moss’s sweat.” Melasniemi and singer Emilíana Torrini, a knife (the archetypical Finn is essentially and sautéed rye bread cruel atmosphere. It was like a haunted feast conceived on an Icelandic road trip an Icelander with a knife). pirate ship.” Dish 5: A liquorice crème brûlée and given a trial run in an apartment in On the topic of his “Hel Yes” pop up Emilíana chimes in, “I can’t stand kitch- Grandi. For that trial run, we were there. Dish 2: Lambface and pickled restaurant events, held in a church in ens like that. I was in a really fancy hotel in Antto is not obsessed with sourcing the red cabbage in flapjacks Stockholm, Antto says: “It was very per- Wales, really pregnant, and all I could hear rarest of rare ingredients or using his skills Dish 1: Fried Wolffish Cheeks formative, it was an experimental social was the chef going all: ‘You fucking what!? to make them unrecognisable, but he is As Antto’s hangover receded, from behind gathering more than a restaurant. I know it This is my name on the door!’ I was wor- certainly inventive and enamoured with A Reykjavík photographer had graciously the tummia pilviä emerged a wry charm sounds a bit iffy, but it was good. No mercy ried he would die of a heart attack. And the marriage of food and design. leased his Grandi digs for this odd event: and playful intellect. Unsurprisingly, as of just observing.” all the posh people were trying to quietly I suggest to Antto there is an element a tastefully gothic apartment with an un- Antto has mastermind- The transience ignore it but because I was so pregnant I of synesthesia in his approach. “For me, believable view, looking a little like the ed some truly bizarre “I liked the risk of not seems to appeal to let out a massive fart in the middle of the it’s very natural to think of taste as music. I showroom of an upscale Scandi furniture dining projects. Such knowing if I would be him and I wonder if it room. And then I launched into a crazy often think of sharp flavours as high notes store. Antiques and curios lined blackened as the Solar Kitchen has something to do laughing fit.” and middle notes as sweet. You can com- walls and Norwegian kelp laced over the project, a pop-up res- able to serve hot food. I with his musical past. pose it like that in your mind.” dinner table like bubble wrap. Outside, taurant travelling from am a bit chaotic by na- “I used to play with the Dish 4: Grilled lamb hearts with a “In my case, I always blend images the grill was flaring up menacingly, trying green fields to car ture. I like to leave it up band HIM and it was potato-and-sardines gratin with sound. When I’m recording I have to to look tough in the face of the gale rip- parks while relying en- fun for a while. It was record until it conforms to the image that ping through the balcony from the North tirely on solar energy, to nature. Maybe also a way of avoiding re- It’s understandable, being a chef is no easy I’ve built in my mind, the music has to layer Atlantic. and “The Trojan Bar,” because I’m a bit lazy. sponsibility, and I think job, all fourteen-hour shifts in windowless over the image like a film,” Emilíana adds. Emilíana Torrini greeted us with a a wooden box which I was more interested rooms. A bit like being a musician, I sug- And with that we get to the final course. crowberry, lemon and prosecco apéritif folds out into a fully It’s freeing, you just go in the side-effect of be- gest to Emilíana. “Yes, but we get breaks One of the more pleasantly strange things from her arsenal of 64° Reykjavík Distillery equipped, transport- with the flow.” ing on stage. I wasn’t in between. However, when you tour for a I’ve tried this year. It is a taste-bud bewil- liqueurs. She is the daughter of an Italian able bar. interested enough in long time you create your own laws, your dering dulse cream pudding, not overly restaurateur operating out of Iceland and “With Solar Kitch- the musical side. Then own world. You are like a country onto sweet or flavourful, just this lingering, is, herself, an enthusiastic epicure. As well, en,” Antto tells me, I got to cooking school, yourself. And everyone goes mad at some savoury, oceany, ashy dulse flavour in the she's an engaging storyteller and impos- “the idea was to build a which was good be- point. You end up completely dysfunc- creamy depths. sibly warm, whether it’s on the topic of res- restaurant completely cause there I could tional and disconnected, even if you are With a few deft touches, Antto and taurant farting or tour bus mania. Oh yes, controlled by nature. continue partying and wearing a smile on your face.” Emilíana have put a clever twist on all the and she’s also a critically and commercially Usually it's chefs trying having fun. But once I Antto feels similarly disconnected with regional mainstays they had gathered— successful songwriter who co-wrote a Ky- to control all the ele- got out and started to the new Nordic movement in most ways. and you too can be a part of that if you join lie Minogue hit and sang the main theme ments and playing God. make money cooking, Antto seems to aim for something less the JaJaJa festivities in London. for ‘Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers’. I liked the risk of not knowing if I would be I found I’m actually quite interested in all pretentious and decidedly less transfor- Behind the counter, Chef Antto is fry- able to serve hot food. I am a bit chaotic by this stuff.” mative of ingredients.

THREE TIMES A CHARM AT HARPA CONCERT HALL

antipasti Prosciutto di parma on toasted bread with goat cheese sauce and rucola secondi

Kolabrautin is on Linguini and langoustine in chili and garlic the 4th floor Harpa dolci Reservations Tiramisu +354 519 9700 [email protected] www.kolabrautin.is 6900 kr. 10. Monday night jazz 20:00 free entry

11. Arnljótur & Fu Kaisha 20:00 1.000 ISK DJ Ravenator

12. VAR 20:00 1.000 ISK DJ Einar Sonic

13. Oyama album release show 21:00 DJ Sunna Ben

14. Pétur Ben & Snorri Helgason 22:00 1.500 ISK DJ KGB 15. DJ Óli Dóri

16. Lowercase Night 21:00 free entry

17. Monday night jazz 20:00 free entry

18. Dance-ioki 20:00 free entry DJ Styrmir Dansson

19. Kippi Kaninus 20:00 1.000 ISK DJ Station Helgi

20. Trevor Gordon Hall og Tyler Ludwick 20:00 1.000 ISK DJ Ernir

21. Mammút 22:00 1.500 ISK DJ Simon FKNHNDSM

22. Hí á Húrra: Stand-up comedy night 21:00 1.500 ISK DJ B-Ruff og Logi Pedro

November at Húrra 23. Doomriders & Kontinuum 21:00 2.500 ISK

24. Monday night jazz 20:00 free entry

25. Nýdönsk 21:00 DJ Ísar Logi

26. Mr. Silla & Cryptochrome 21:00 1.500 ISK DJ Robot Disco 27. DJ Ívar Pétur

28. Pink Street Boys 22:00 DJ Styrmir Dansson 29. Jónas Sig & Ritvélar Framtíðarinnar DJ Gullfoss og Geysir

30. Lowercase Night 21:00 free entry The Reykjavík Grapevine Lemúrinn is an Icelandic web magazine (Icelandic for the native primate of Mad- LEMÚRINN 34 Issue 17 — 2014 agascar). A winner of the 2012 Web Awards, Lemúrinn.is covers all things strange and interesting. Go check it out at www.lemurinn.is

A Spaceship In Iceland!

Words Lemúrinn

Photos US National Archives and Records Administration

A specially prepared Boeing 747 NASA aircraft landed at Keflavík Airport in May of 1983. This would probably not have made any headlines, had the plane not been carried the NASA space shuttle ‘Enterprise’ on its back.

This strange flying object passed over The Icelandic astronomy blog Reykjavík before landing at Keflavík, Stjörnufræðivefurinn offers these which at the time was, of course, still musings about the event: the US Navy base NASKEF. The air- Just imagine seeing ‘Enterprise’ in the craft and its cargo were in Iceland for Reykjavík sky! At the time, the Ice- a fuel stop on their way to Paris, to landic public had hardly ever seen a attend an air show. The 'Enterprise' computer and every household used a was the first ever space shuttle and rotary phone. The white space shuttle was used for test flights in the atmo- must have looked like something from sphere, aided by this modified 747 jet. the Star Wars Trilogy (the third one, ‘Return of the Jedi’, was released in The following is from an article theaters around this time). Back then published in the newspaper DV at people knew how to dream and had the time. every reason for having those dreams. Tens of thousands of people watched In 1983 people thought that Mars the American Space Shuttle ‘Enter- would be visited by humans after one prise’ on top of a Boeing 747 jet as it or two decades. flew only 50 metres over Reykjavík air- The Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Mu- port around 20:30 last night. The pe- seum in New York City now showcas- culiar conjoint pair, this gigantic colos- es this first ever space shuttle. sus, was the biggest flying object most people had ever seen.” Enjoy the photos of this spectacu- lar event, which were all found at NARA (US National Archives and Records Administration), www. nara.gov.

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PassionatePassionate aboutabout Apple?Apple?

Macland is the only Apple service provider and reseller in downtown Reykjavík.

Laugavegur 17 | 580 7500 | [email protected] | macland.is P.24

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL AND car rental ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Get your offer at SADcars.com Keflavík airport and Skógarhlíð 10, 105 Reykjavík STUFFED WITH STUFF Issue 17 YOUR FREE COPY 4EL sINFO SADCARSCOM

P.12 Go Home with a story A state by the people and for the people cannot be worth telling! armed to the teeth against the people. A state that aims at invincibility against its own population, and will tolerate protests only as long as they are sure not to achieve anything, is not, fundamentally, a democratic state, but a fascist one.

We are worried about the submachine guns, and what they might mean.

P.16 Northern Lights Tour

“The worst thing about the jólabókaflóð is that publishers are really competing with just a couple of major titles, say, the ones in the crime-fiction genre. They get engaged in a kind of hyped-up chart race, and all the press is about just those few books."

Bookseller Kristján Freyr, on the annual Xmas publishing frenzy!

P.24 Snorkeling Tour In Silfra

It has to be said that those people who sit in a dark room dreaming up intrigue and foul murder over a hot laptop tend to be a bundle of fun when they’re released into the daylight. Open EVERYDAY 8:00-22:00 The second annual Reykjavík Noir Festival will take place November 21-22. We dug up some clues about what to expect this year.

P.32 Glacier Hiking Tour

“And all the posh people were trying to quietly ignore it but because I was so pregnant I let out a massive fart in the middle of the room. And then I launched into a crazy laughing fit”.

Emiliana Torrini is just the best!

INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTRE Spör ehf. FIND YOUR Bankastræti 2 - Downtown ADVENTURE Tel: +354 522 4979 [email protected] - www.itm.is BOOK YOUR TOUR HERE Bankastræti

Laugavegur WITH US Summer: 8 - 21 FREE Skólavörðustígur B O O K I N G Winter: 9 - 19 Scan QR code to locate ITM SERVICE Music, Art, Films and Events Listings Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map

Issue 17 - 2014 www.grapevine.is Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland

4-25 November

Look At The Light A photo exhibition in KEX Hostel celebrates past Airwaves festivals.

see inside for details

Photo by Matthew Eisman MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE Nov 7 - Dec 4

How to use the listings: Venues are listed alphabetically by day. Events 28 listed are all live performances, with November troubadours and DJs specifically highlighted. For complete listings and detailed information on venues visit listings.grapevine.is. Send us your listings to: [email protected]. Friday November 7 Café Haíti 21:30 Autonomous the trio Café Rosenberg 21:00 Marel Blues English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Andri / Hjálmar & Dagur Langholtskirkja 20:00 Fóstbræður Men’s Choir: To The Strings And Voices Light And Life Ylja Album Release Concert Lebowski Bar 22:00 DJ Rúnar Paloma Harpa 22:00 DJ Kári | | from 2,900 ISK Prikið Austurbakka 2 (C4) 20:30 22:00 DJ Gervisykur / DELUXXE Stúdentakjallarinn Ylja are an alternative acoustic folk group fronted by honey-voiced 21:00 Strangely and Shay duet Gígja Skjaldardóttir and Bjartey Sveinsdóttir. Formed in 2008, Saturday November 8 the band has expanded to a quintet, adding electronic guitarist Örn Eldjárn, bass player Ingibjörg Elsa Turchi and percussionist Café Rosenberg Maggi Magg to the mix. Since then they have gone on to perform 21:00 KK & Maggi Frederiksen Ale House at four consecutive Airwaves festivals, the annual Bræðslan 15:00 DJ FreddiFriski festival in Borgarfjörður Eystri, and at numerous other places. Lebowski Bar They combine vocal harmonies with soft acoustic riffs to create a 22:00 DJ Smutty Smiff Harpa soothing ambient sound, equally at home playing tenderly on your 20:00 The Icelandic Opera: ‘Don Carlo’ living room stereo, and on stage. TD by Giuseppe Verdi Háskólabíó 22:00 Nirvana Tribute Prikið 21:00 Sopfors / Chryptochrome / Mælginn MC / Kocoon 21 Sunday November 9 November Austurbæjarbíó 20:00 Kópavogur Women’s Choir: The Love and Life Concert English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Danni Hannesarholt 16:00 French Saxophone Performers Guido Bäumer & Aladár Rácz Langholtskirkja 20:00 Fóstbræður Men’s Choir: To The Light And Life 22:00 Fóstbræður Men’s Choir: To The Light And Life Lebowski Bar 22:00 DJ Halli Einars Salurinn 16:00 BassBar Mercurial Metallic Moshers Monday November 10 Sinmara Album Release / Misþyrming / Naðra Café Rosenberg Gaukurinn 21:00 Sunna Björk Album Release Concert Tryggvagata 22 (C3) | 22:00 | 1,500 ISK English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur Frederiksen Ale House Hotly tipped local black metal band Sinmara are releasing 21:00 DJ Milla their latest effort ‘Aphotic Womb’, and want you to join them Húrra 20:00 Monday Night Jazz in celebrating. Sinmara have been a fixture on the scene for KEX Hostel a good few years now and are well known for their hefty live 20:00 No Lights No Lycra performances. They contrast chaotic aggression with haunting Lebowski Bar 22:00 DJ Anna Brá melodies and dramatic build-ups to make a sepulchral growling sound. They are joined by two other aptly named black metal bands, Naðra (“Serpent”) and Misþyrming (“Abuse”). TD Photo by Rakel Erna Skarphéðinsdóttir MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

Tuesday November 11 Café Rosenberg 21 21:00 Borgfjörð November English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Tryggvi Húrra 20:00 Arnljótur / Fu Kaisha / DJ Ravenator KEX Hostel 20:30 KEX Jazz The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun Lebowski Bar 22:00 DJ Halli Einars dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, Wednesday November 12 Mammoth Miasma where we take on the classics with Dolly 21:00 DJ Gabriel / DJ AJ Mammút a modern twist. English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Raggi Frederiksen Ale House Húrra 21:00 Fnykur Funk Band Harpa Tryggvagata 22 (D3) | 17:30 | 1,500 ISK 21:00 Múlinn Jazzclub: Andrés Þór Quartet Mammút are an Icelandic art-rock band that have been making Húrra 20:00 VAR / DJ Einar Sonic waves at home and abroad since like forever now. Having earned Lebowski Bar eight nominations in the 2014 Icelandic Music Awards, winning 22:00 DJ Rúnar the coveted "Best Song" and "Best Album" accolades, the band Mengi 21:00 Eskmo have gone from strength to strength. Even if you don't understand Prikið Icelandic, you can easily surmise from their stage presence that 22:00 DJ Steindór Grétar Salurinn they craft catchy and distorted lullabies with a subtly darker 12:15 Lunch Time Concert: The Years element running through their music. Expect to leave the show In Paris touched. TD Photo by Hvalreki Thursday November 13 Café Rosenberg 21:00 Eva The Band Dillon 21:00 Sun Kil Moon Dolly 21:00 Mike Hunt / Shakespeare Sister Theme English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Hjálmar & Dagur Frederiksen Ale House 21:00 DJ Sim Simma Gaukurinn 13 21:00 Toneron November Grafarvogskirkja SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 40 · 101 REYKJAVÍK · TEL.+354 517 7474 · KOLRESTAURANT.IS 20:00 Fjörgyn’s Grand Concert Hannesarholt Stars In Our Eyes 20:00 Jazz Improv: Kristjana Stefánsdóttir and Kjartan Oyama Album Release Concert / Nolo Valdemarsson Hressó 21:00 DJ Cyppie Húrra Húrra 21:00 Oyama Album Release Show / Tryggvagata 22 (D3) | 22:00 | 2,000 ISK Nolo / DJ Sunna Ben Kaffibarrin 22:00 DJ Símon fknhndsm Oyama are releasing their much-anticipated debut album Lebowski Bar ‘Coolboy’ like right about now! The five-piece band came together 22:30 DJ Smutty Smiff in 2012 and have made a big impression on the scene here in Paloma Travel the 20:00 These Fists Reykjavík with their shoegazy noise rock furnished with lulling Prikið lyrics and dreamy shimmering guitar riffs. The evening is in equal 22:00 DJ Styrmir Dansson parts the closing of one chapter in Oyama’s career, and the world of music Friday November 14 beginning of another. DJ Sunna Ben then keeps the party going until the wee early hours. Fun times! TD Photo by Sigga Ella Austurbæjarbíó Weekly concerts in Harpa Concert Hall. 20:00 The Magic of Tom Jones with Matthías Matthíasson, Friðrik Ómar Hressó KEX Hostel View our exciting 2014/15 season at and Jógvan Hansen 21:00 Band Hægðir and Lægðir 20:00 No Lights No Lycra sinfonia.is. Café Rosenberg Húrra Lebowski Bar 21:00 Kristjana Arngríms & Egill Ólafs 23:00 DJ Óli Dóri 22:00 DJ Anna Brá Dolly Kaffibarrin 21:00 DJ Orang Volante / Gunni Ewok 22:00 DJ Margeir Tuesday November 18 Dillon Lebowski Bar 21:00 Church House Creepers / Klikk 22:00 DJ De La Rósa Café Rosenberg English Pub Mengi 21:00 Músakk 21:00 Troubadours Ingi Valur & Tryggvi 21:00 Ingi Garðar English Pub / Biggi Paloma 21:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur Hressó 23:45 RVK Soundsystem’s Reggae Frederiksen Ale House 21:00 Band 7-9-13 Night 21:00 DJ Yoda Húrra Prikið Harpa 22:00 Pétur Ben / Snorri Helgason / 22:00 Emmsjé Gauti 21:00 Múlinn-Jazzclub: Duo & Trio DJ KGB Húrra Kaffibarrin Sunday November 16 20:00 Dance-ioki / DJ Styrmir Dansson 22:00 DJ Alfons X KEX Hostel Lebowski Bar English Pub 20:30 KEX Jazz 22:00 DJ Anna Brá 21:00 Troubadour Danni Lebowski Bar Paloma Frederiksen Ale House 22:00 DJ Raggi 20:00 DJs Dauði/ Ravenator 21:00 DJ Holm Prikið Harpa Wednesday November 19 22:00 DJ Moonshine 16:00 Children's Opera: The Magic Stúdentakjallarinn Flute English Pub 21:00 Karaoke Night Hressó 21:00 Troubadour Arnar 21:00 Jazz Jam Session Frederiksen Ale House Húrra Saturday November 15 21:00 Fnykur Funk Band 21:00 Lowercase Night Húrra Kaffibarrin Austurbæjarbíó 20:00 Kippi Kaninus / DJ Station Helgi 20:00 The Magic of Tom Jones with 22:00 DJ Kristinn Pálsson Lebowski Bar Matthías Matthíasson, Friðrik Ómar & Lebowski Bar 22:00 DJ Jesús Jógvan Hansen 22:00 DJ Halli Einarss Prikið Dillon 22:00 DJ Karí 21:00 Captain Syrup Monday November 17 Dolly 21:00 DJ Kocoon & Benni B-Ruff Café Rosenberg Thursday November 20 Frederiksen Ale House 21:00 Felix Bergsson & Hlynur Ben Café Rosenberg 21:00 DJ HanSolo Harpa Gaukurinn 21:00 Trevor Gordon Hall 21:00 Bombay Bicycle Club Dillon @icelandsymphony #sinfo14 21:00 Whitesnake Tribute Band Húrra 21:00 Fundraising gig with the Pink 20:00 Monday Night Jazz Street Boys Box office » 528 5050 » www.sinfonia.is » www.harpa.is MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

Dolly 21:00 DJ JónBjörn / Housekell English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Alexander & 28 Guðmann November Frederiksen Ale House 21:00 DJ Milla Gaukurinn 21:00 Electric Elephant / Lucy in Blue Hressó 21:00 Band Triple Trouble Húrra 21:00 Trevor Gordon Hall & Tyler Ludwig / DJ Ernir Lebowski Bar 22:30 DJ De La Rósa Mengi 21:00 Berglind María Paloma Holy Shit It's Sun Kil Moon In Fríkirkjan! 20:00 DJ Einar Sonic Prikið Sun Kil Moon 22:00 DJ GLM Friday November 21 Fríkirkjan Laufásvegur 13 (F3) | 20:30 | 5,900 ISK Bar 11 22:00 Saktmóðigur / Pungsig Café Rosenberg For some strange reason, veteran musician Mark Kozelek seems to 21:00 Svavar Knútur be making greater waves at this point in time than ever before. And Dolly that's kind of weird, not because his latest output under the Sun Kil 21:00 DJ Steindor Jónsson / Solaris SunGlaze Moon banner hasn't been consistently wonderful (it has—check out English Pub the latest 'Benji' for instance), but because everything he's done 21:00 Troubadours Steini & Eiki / Ellert basically since the early '90s, starting with the entire Red House Frederiksen Ale House Painters oeuvre, has been consistently great. Seriously. Every- 21:00 DJ Sim Simma Gaukurinn fucking-thing. The man is a legend, goddamn. So, why is he getting 21:00 Sinmara Album Release Concert all this attention now? Is it accumulated? Probably. Does it have / Misþyrming / Naðra Hressó something to do with his internet-fuelled trolling of late? Perhaps. 21:00 Band Mr. Mookie It doesn't really matter. What matters is that folks are getting to Húrra hear some goddamn Mark Kozelek. That's what fucking matters. 22:00 Mammút / DJ Simon Go fucking see him at Fríkirkjan already. It's Mark fucking Kozelek. FKNHNDSM Kaffibarrin HSM 22:00 DJ Dillalude/Intro Beats Lebowski Bar 22:00 DJ Raggi Mengi 21:00 Ólafur Björn Ólafsson Prikið 22:00 DJ Sunna Ben / Logi Pedro Pílatus Saturday November 22 Café Rosenberg 21:00 VOR Dolly 21:00 DJ Borg vs Hausar ALL IN ONE English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Ellert / Magnús & Ívar Frederiksen Ale House RESTAURANT 21:00 DJ Sim Simma Check Out The Moves Fríkirkjan 17:00 Arne Hjorth, Helge Nysted & Reykjavík Dance Festival Diverse menu, Gunnarsson Kitchen Gaukurinn Bíó Paradís (E5), Mengi (F5), Tjarnarbíó (E3) great value and 21:00 Skurk a wide selection Húrra Nov 26 - 29 | 2,000 ISK Bar 23:00 DJ Benni B-Ruff / Logi Pedro of cocktails, beers Pílatus For those who were upset at missing the epic dance moves of the and wines. Lebowski Bar Café 22:00 DJ Anna Brá Reykjavík Dance Festival in August, have no worry, the RDF is back Mengi 21:00 Chris Sea for its fourth quarterly performance! That’s four days of talented Paloma dancers and their spiced-up dance moves appearing all over 20:00 DJ Addi Exos / Natalie & Oculus Reykjavík. Expect to be impressed, fascinated, and inspired, as RDF / API PABBI Prikið offers guests to come together and speculate the fine details of 22:00 DJ Kocoon the choreography, to “listen, watch and engage; do, make, say and Tjarnarbió 20:00 Sigga Eyrún Album Release Party think; care, feel, love and share.” So head on down and be blown away. SV Sunday November 23 English Pub Lebowski Bar 21:00 Troubadour Danni Tuesday November 25 22:30 DJ Jesús Frederiksen Ale House Prikið 21:00 DJ Holm Austurbæjarbíó 22:00 DJ Gunni Ewok Harpa 20:00 Ástusjóður’s charity concert: 19:30 The Chamber Music Society #3: Árstíðir / Byzantine Silhouette /Megas Mozart & Bartók & Magga Stína / Ragga Gröndal / Thursday November 27 Hressó Svavar Knútur Café Rosenberg 21:00 Jazz Jam Session Café Rosenberg Laugavegur 21:00 Rósa Guðrún & friends Húrra 21:00 Kanban English Pub Dillon Skólavör 21:00 Doomriders / Kontinuum 21:00 Troubadour Tryggvi 23:00 Ultra Orthodox astr. . Lebowski Bar

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Bergsta a l Frederiksen Ale House K Húrra Grettisgata Monday November 24 21:00 Nýdönsk / DJ Ísar Logi 21:00 Throwback Thursday: DJ KEX Hostel Disaster Café Rosenberg Gaukurinn 21:00 Bjargræðiskvartettinn 20:30 KEX Jazz Lebowski Bar 21:00 Grit Teeth English Pub 22:00 DJ Halli Einarss Harpa 21:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur 19:30 Iceland Symphony Orchestra: Frederiksen Ale House Concerto and Symphony 21:00 DJ Yoda Wednesday November 26 19:30 Bryndís Halla Gylfadóttir: Húrra Concerto For Cello And A 20:00 Monday Night Jazz Frederiksen Ale House Symphony KEX Hostel 21:00 Fnykur Funk Band 21:00 Múlinn Jazzclub: Krafla Quartet 20:00 No Lights No Lycra Húrra Hressó Lebowski Bar 21:00 Mr. Silla / Cryptochrome / DJ 21:00 Band Kongó 22:00 DJ Anna Brá Robot Disco Húrra Kaffibarrin 21:00 DJ Ívar Pétur Vegamótastíg | 101 Reykjavík | tel. 511 3040 | www.vegamot.is 22:00 DJ Kári MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

Kaffibarrin 22:00 DJ Logi Pedró Pílatus Lebowski Bar 22:30 DJ Raggi Paloma 20:00 DJ Creature Of The Night Prikið 22:00 DJ KGB Friday November 28 Café Rosenberg 21:00 Maríus Sverrisson Dolly 21:00 DJ PabbaHelgi / Gísli Galdur / Benni B-Ruff English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Roland / Alexander & GREAT Guðmann Frederiksen Ale House Do The Bat Dance! 21:00 DJ Yolo No Lights No Lycra Fríkirkjan 20:30 Sun Kil Moon Harpa KEX Hostel 20:30 Ylja Album Release Concert FOODGOOD Skúlagata 28 (E7) | Every Monday 20:00 | 500 ISK Húrra 20:00 Pink Street Boys / Kælan Mikla / DJ Styrmir Dansson The No Lights No Lycra dance event is on (almost) every Monday Lebowski Bar at KEX Hostel, where participants can literally dance like no one is 22:00 DJ Anna Brá & Ragg Backtoback / De La Rósa watching. If you haven’t heard of the concept, it involves everyone Prikið dancing in a pitch-black room to some groovy tunes, completely DRINKS 22:00 DJ Orang Volante / Pedro Pilatus sober. The event originated in Melbourne, Australia and has Saturday November 29 gained popularity worldwide. KEX Hostel started the first ever NLNL in Iceland in October, and it proved to be such a hit that it Dolly NICE 21:00 DJ IntroBeats has now become a weekly fixture at the hostel. NLNL is a great English Pub place for cutting loose, and meeting people when their inhibitions ATMO 21:00 Troubadours Magnús & Ívar / have been lowered by the power of DANCE. TD & MC Alexander & Guðmann Frederiksen Ale House HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 17-19 21:00 DJ OK Hressó 21:00 Band Geimflaugin Húrra 20:00 Jónas Sig & Ritvélar Framtíðarinnar / DJ Gullfoss og Geysir Kaffibarrin 22:00 DJ Kohip (NO) / Terrordisco Lebowski Bar 22:00 DJ Jésus Paloma 20:00 DJ Ómar Borg & Housekell / Einar Sonic Prikið 22:00 DJ Jay-O Sunday November 30 English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Danni Frederiksen Ale House 21:00 DJ Holm Hressó 21:00 Jazz Jam Session Húrra 21:00 Lowercase Night Lebowski Bar 22:00 DJ Halli Einarss Bombay Cocktail Monday December 1 Bombay Bicycle Club English Pub 21:00 Troubadour Tryggvi Harpa Frederiksen Ale House 21:00 DJ FreddiFriski Austurbakki 2 (C4) | Nov 17 | 20:00 | 8,990 ISK Harpa 20:00 Christmas Prelude with Svanur Brass Band English indie rocksters Bombay Bicycle Club are not to be missed. Touring the world with their mercury award-nominated album ‘So Tuesday December 2 Long See You Tomorrow’, they’re in Reykjavik for one night and English Pub one night only. The new sounds of the album are influenced by 21:00 Troubadour Ingi Valur lead singer Jack Steadman's recent travels to the Netherlands, Frederiksen Ale House Turkey, and India. Fancy that, Netherlands-influenced music! TD 21:00 DJ OK Fríkirkjan 20:00 Woodwind Quintet Wednesday December 3 The National Frederiksen Ale House 21:00 Fnykur Funk Band Museum of Harpa 21:00 Múlinn-Jazzclub: Tómas R & voices Prikið Iceland 22:00 Gísli Galdur Birthday Bash Thursday December 4 Along with the permanent exhibition that features Iceland’s history from English Pub 21:00 Troubadours Alexander & settlement to present day the Guðmann museum offers a variety of exhibitions KITCHEN IS OPEN Frederiksen Ale House Weekends 11.30–24 21:00 DJ Holby during the year, e.g. on Icelandic Harpa silver and photography. Other days 11.30–23 19:30 Iceland Symphony Orchestra: Advent Concert Kaffibarrin 22:00 Gísli Galdur Mengi 21:00 Hacker Farm / FALK Label Night Prikið 22:00 DJ Agzilla UNO at Ingólfstorg | Tel. 561 1313 | www.uno.is www.thjodminjasafn.is Suðurgata 41 / 101 Reykjavík ART OPENINGS AND ONGOING

Lauren Greenfield prints and inkjet prints from scanned film negatives. Opens November 15 Runs until November 29 Stelpumenning / Girl Culture i8 The two person show features works by Icelandic painter Eggert Pétursson and German photographer Friederike Von Rauch. Their works share certain similarities such as the reduction in material content, stillness and concentration. Opens December 4 Runs until January 31 Kópavogur Art Museum Gerðarsafn 'Impressions' by Hólmfríður Árnadóttir Hólmfríður has a series of textile and paper works from early parts of her career on exhibition. Opens November 15 Runs until January 4 2015 'Óp/Op' by Jón B. K. Ransu Jón B. K. Ransu has an exhibit with numerous artwork on display. Opens November 15 Runs until January 4 2015 Kunstschlager Phenomenal A collection of performances and projects will take place around the city for three weeks. The works are different in size and 13. 9. 2014 – 11. 1. 2015 medium. Opens November 8 Runs until November 29 The National Gallery Old School baby! New Works by Jón Óskar Iceland Film Photographer Association Exhibition Jón Óskar is one of Iceland´s well known artists with numerous exhibitions in Icelandic Printmakers Association museums and galleries around the ADMISSION FREE world and in Iceland. In his photographs, GRÓFARHÚS 6th Floor Tryggvagata 17 (D3) | Nov 15 - 29 | 14 - 18 | Free! drawings, and prints, he explores the Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavik Do you remember the days you would check the count on your conflict between the surface of the picture plane and the subjects he portrays, Opening Hours: Mon–Thu 12–19 film roll to see how many more photographs you could take? Do whether they are portraits, historical Fridays 12–18, Weekends 13–17 you remember shaking a polaroid and waiting for the picture themes, or personal references. www.photomuseum.is to finally appear? The world may have turned digital, but there Opens November 7 are still a few analogue fans out there. A group of such people Runs until February 8 The Reykjavík City Library just formed the Iceland Film Photographer Association, and they The Plant In The Hallway - Comics are launching an exhibition featuring a vast variety of analogue Exhibition photography techniques, such as polaroid, pinhole, tintype, gum Sisters Elísabet Rún and Elín Edda will open a comics exhibition. On display bichromate, and paper negatives. It’s like a trip down memory lane, will be their first graphic novel, 'The Plant all to show that film is not dead (yet). SV in the Hallway.' They have been working Photo by Kristina Petrošiut on the graphic novel for two years, and its story is about the protagonist's life changes when she puts a plant in her Nov 7 - Dec 4 Alexander's experience of moving back hallway. to Iceland, as well as the experiences Opens November 7 accumulated through art residencies in How to use the listings: Venues are Runs until February 22 listed alphabetically by day. For com- Spain, Italy, Ukraine, Germany, Holland Spark Design Space plete listings and detailed information and Poland. Salon on venues visit listings.grapevine.is. Opens November 21 Every year the Spark Design Space installs a Send us your listings to: listings@ Runs until December 5 collection of projects they have exhibited grapevine.is Gallery Fold in the past. Abba's (Aðalbjörg Þórðardóttir) is known Opens November 12 Opening for her oil paintings, of which she exhibits Runs until January 5 2015 four. Tveir Hrafnar Art Gallery Arion Bank Headquarters Starts November 11 Jón Óskar stands out in the Icelandic art 'Speglað landslag' by Hrafnkell Runs until November 30 scene for his paintings of conflict and even Sigurðsson Háskólabíó violence—not in representation, but rather In this exhibition (which translates German Film Festival in their process of creation. th as "Flipped Landscape"), Hrafnkell To mark the 25 anniversary of the Fall of Opens November 8 Sigurðsson examines the relationship the Berlin Wall, the German Embassy Runs until November 29 between man and nature, showing Reykjavík in collaboration with the man-made structures that resemble Goethe-Institut is presenting the Ongoing nature, and natural phenomena that look “Múrmyndir - Murals- Mauerbilder” humane. film days. The programme aims to shed Árbær Open Air Museum Opens November 8 light onto the many facets of the divided A guided tour in English through this Runs until February 20 history on both sides of the wall as well as open air museum, which consists of ASÍ Art Gallery the reunification of 1989. twenty buildings happens daily at 13:00. 'REGLUVERK' by Hugsteypan Opens November 7 Admission 1,100 ISK. Hugsteypan is a collaboration between Runs until November 9 On permanent view Ingunn Fjóla Ingþórsdóttir and Þórdís Hverfisgallery Anarkía Jóhannesdóttir. For the past five years Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir aka Shoplifter is Eye For An Eye Ingunn and Þórdís have been working an Icelandic artist living in New York. Kristinn Már Pálmason and Bjarni on their collaborative projects in tandem Shoplifter makes sculptures, drawings Sigurbjörnsson's exhibition consists of new with their own individual art projects. and installations with various materials paintings made with acrylic paint, pens This show exhibits the results from their and found objects. Her works take on and airbrush on paper and canvas. Bjarni inquiry into the rules and repetitions in themes relating to vanity, self-image, and Kristinn Már have had numerous art. fashion, beauty and popular myths, solo exhibitions and participated in group Opens November 8 and often tackle notions that border on exhibitions, in Iceland and abroad. Runs until November 30 obsession or fetishism. Runs until November 22 Better Weather Window Gallery Opens November 29 ART 67 The second site specific mixed media Runs until January 31 'Hver Með Sínu Nefi' by ART11 installation will launch at this relatively Icelandic Printmakers The ART11 collective has a mixed medium new exhibition window space on Association exhibit on show throughout the month. Laugavegur by Freyja Eilíf Logadóttir. Iceland Film Photographer Runs until November 30 Opens December 1 Association Exhibition Artótek Runs until December 29 The newly formed Iceland Film Figures and Forms Gallery Bakarí Photographer Association (Félag The artists are two ceramic artists: Auður ‘Lumine Maris Ubique’ by Alexander Filmuljósmyndara á Íslandi) will hold Inga and Hafdís Brands. They both studied Zaklynsky its first members' exhibition. The fine art in the Glasgow School of Art. Alexander Zaklynsy exhibits new works show will feature works in a variety Hafdís specialises in ceramic sculptures on paper, bronze, aluminium and wood. of analogue photography techniques, while Auður Inga paint along with the The works developed for this exhibition such as polaroid, pinhole, tintype, gum ceramic. are loosely inspired by Deiter Roth, bichromate and paper negatives, as Opens November 6 well as more conventional darkroom Runs until December 7 CRAVING

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Reykjavík November 7 - December 4 Keep it in your pocket Four Weeks The Grapevine picks the events, places and what to experience in the next four weeks 21-23 Art 22-9 Art Nov Get Some Nuts! Sept Dec The Divine Comedy SOUVENIR SHOP

SHOP OF THE YEAR 2012

The Nutcracker ‘DEUS’ by Þórdís Claessen Harpa | Austurbakki 2, (C4) | from 5,990 ISK Coocoo’s Nest (B2) | 11-19 | Free!

One of the world’s most famous ballets, 'The Did you ever wonder whether a fusion of rock and Nutcracker', is presented in all its glory with the religion was possible without creating something original score of Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky. The as degenerate as Creed or P.O.D.? Well, we’re Christmas fairy tale is of course a family-friendly here to tell you it is! Visual artist Þórdís Claessen’s show, and is being produced in collaboration newest painting exhibit is an ode to music, in with the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and St. which rock is literally taken to the divine level. The Petersburg Festival Ballet. So sit back and enjoy paintings resemble icons and holy imagery, but the the show of the little girl who gets a nutcracker for religious aspect has been replaced by instruments, Christmas and falls into a dream world unlike any pedals and other musical paraphernalia, for other. TD maximum rock ‘n’ rollitude. SV

Art 7-9 November 15 November Teutonic Tapes

HE LOVES THESE HOES BUT IS A FEMINIST The rapping wünderkind Emmsjé Gauti is back on the block in the hip hop den known as Prikið. The young rapper has taken the scene by storm, using YouTube to connect to an online audience, bring- ing Icelandic hip hop into the 21st century. Expect Emmsjé Gauti to bring slick rhymes, with perhaps a feminist undertone.

November 28 German Film Festival (Háskolabíó) The viking:info ROCK AND PUNK ALL NIGHT LONG Oh lord, Vesturbær | 18:00 - 22:30 | Admission: Varies Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík our Track of Issue stars, the punk-poets of Kælan Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Akureyri mikla who just released an EP, LP and cassette in To mark the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri short succession, are teaming up with the garage Berlin Wall, the German Embassy in Reykjavík [email protected] Reykjavík rock band Pink Street Boys who released the in collaboration with the Goethe-Institute will www.theviking.is critically acclaimed 'Trash From The Boys' a few be presenting the “Múrmyndir– Murals– Mau- months back. If you haven't seen these bands play erbilder” three day film festival. The programme before, they offer two sides of the same coin of aims to enlighten people on the differences and TAX FREE brilliance—you can expect them to tear Húrra's challenges faced by the communities living in the roof down, or at the very least break a few glasses. two halves of the country that was divided for so long. A variety of films will be screened. TD 1 2 3 4 5

ÓÐ SL KI MAP FIS MAP UR GrandiÐ Places We Like A GAR DA AN Eating GR Maritime 1 Tapas Barinn Museum Vesturgata 3b Saga For those with a bit of time on their hands, Museum A the evening is well spent at Tapas Barinn, ST where you can indulge yourself feasting on AU course after delicious course of miniature AN B dishes served in true Spanish style. There is M ÝRA also a lounge for those who want to hang out RG and sip a fine glass of red. AT NÝ A LEN D A Viking museum that UGA gives a compelling view SVEGUR TA 2 NE into Icelandic history Höfnin AM ÍGUR Geirsgata 7c RÁNAR 2 VEST GE GRANDAGARÐUR 2, 101 REYKJAVÍK ARST GATA URG IR Spoiler alert: Seafood comes from the sea. B SG 11 TEL.: 511 1517 C ÁR ATA AT WWW.SAGAMUSEUM.IS So if you want your seafood fresh, it’s to the BORG UG 4 A AT TA Harpa sea you’ve got to go. With prime real estate RA A Ð I Reykjavík ÖL T Concert Æ D ISGA Art Museum carved out right next to the Reykjavík marina, UGA Hall 13 BR TA RÆ A Höfnin (“The Harbour”) has a leg up in this ÆG T Main TR game. Enjoy the wide selection of expertly Tourist YGG AS The cooked shellfish as well as cod, salmon and Ð 1Info 6 VA HÁ GA Central SÖ other dishes. Landlubbers will also find four- LV VA AR TI TA LV G Bank HÓ legged fare to suit their tastes. AL LL HAFN G LSGA L A TÚNGATA RÆ 13 ARST The A GA RÆTI TA G T I Culture AT A AU D ALST E STUR House 3 G A Ð Austur D ST Sjávargrillið A RÆ AT völlur TI National A K T. IRK H GUR Skólavörðustígur 14 JU S B VE Theatre LI STRÆ A AN 8 B RF TÍ ND TI KA ISGA AT ST TA RS If you’re looking for traditional Icelandic food Icelandic STH. RÆ S I Ó Ó RG PA L Parliament A TI done right, Sjávargrillið is definitely a place VA V P LL ON TI AP AG KJ ÆT to go. Gústav Gunnlaugsson, Icelandic Chef AR Æ AT TA Ta xi I ST LÆ KL of the year 2010, is the head chef at this A RÆ LA GA SSTR ÆT ATA TI 9 UG R SSTR AV establishment and he does not mess around. LT HR U F EGUR VA RG 7

Ð City

Whether you’re a curious tourist or a native IN RSTR U HO ÓL G Hall A 3 I E S G Icelander, you won’t be disappointed by any M BR Ð E ARNA ING IN A SK of the Icelandic dishes on this menu. LU AU Þ TJ ST R T EGUR H ÓL

EGUR V A Fish • Lamb • Whale S BERG V R UV ÖR 4 U FÁ ATA Icelandic Fish & Chips KJ

Icelandic cuisine with a twist L U Ð SG IR U ME N

LA I 5 S Tryggvagata 11 ÍK Icelandic music and nightlife T Ð Í LO G FR Ó Mix with the locals Not your average fish’n’chips joint, this UR National UR Þ EL Ó K ...and all the Icelandic beers in one awsome place! healthy restaurant uses only organic vegeta- Gallery AST M R UR S bles and quality fish products to serve their SK GA F OTHÚSVE A ÍGUR fancy take on a fast-food classic. The spiced FURU MEL GUR AT TA ‘Skyronnaise’ sauce is a special treat, and RKI C their clean, casual location by the harbour is BI National BALDURSG full of charm. library A A S AT AT Ó AG ARG LE Ð RAG F B AR R Y NJ National JA E 5 Snaps YJ museum R U G GA Óðinstorg, Þórsgata 1 AT FJ TA A ÖLNI This recent addition to Reykjavík dining has BERG EI INGÓLFSSTRÆTI 1A 101 REYKJAVÍK G TA quickly become a popular spot for folks with SV GA Hljómskáli E WWW.ISLENSKIBARINN.IS TEL: 517 6767 S GU a fine palate and a modest budget, offering AR HR Park TA a small menu of courses made from local University IN Ð R GB A B produce with a carefully selected wine list. It’s of Iceland LA RS MUND R U T A F R also a cool hangout for artists and musicians. Æ UT ÁSVE Æ Make sure to get there early - they take S TI reservations until 18:30 but after that it's a GU R free-for-all! ST Nordic House H UR Culture Center LU VA Drinking AG TNSM 6 Húrra 7 Kaldi Bar 8 Loft Hostel 9 Þingholt Bar Tryggvagata 22 Laugavegur 20b Bankastræti 7 Center Hotel, Þingholtstræti 5 The walls may be dark and adorned with A small, stylish drinking hole popular with With a brilliant location right in the centre of Located in Center Hotel Þingholt, this bar is gloomy paintings, and the lighting minimal, the after-work business crowd, this is a great the action, the views from the upstairs bar tucked away just outside of the mayhem but when the bands step onto the stage the place to feel a little classier and drink with and rooftop patio at the Loft Hostel can't that is Laugavegur on a weekend night. place really comes into its own. Armed with dignity. The beer selection is top-notch, and be more entertaining. In addition to clean, For a quieter evening, check out their daily a great sound system, the place delivers a the handcrafted interior tips the scales of comfortable rooms for all types of travellers, happy hour between 17–19, lounge in their great experience for music fans throughout upscale rustic charm. You can be certain that this new hostel is quickly becoming a hotspot chic and modern environment with one of Reykjavík. Oh, and they serve Einstök Pale conversation will rule, not loud music. for live music and comfortable accommoda- the many beers and cocktails on offer. Ale and White Ale in beer mugs! tion alike.

Useful Numbers The Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2, Shops: Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–16:00, Public Transport Emergency number: 112 tel: 522 4979 Sun closed. The shopping centres Kringlan and The only public transport available in Reykjavík Trip, Laugavegur 54, tel: 433 8747 Smáralind as well as most supermarkets and Medical help: 1770 is the bus. Most buses run every 20–30 minutes Pharmacies tourist shops have longer opening hours. Dental emergency: 575 0505 (the wait may be longer on weekends) and the Swimming pools: Weekdays 06:30–22:00 and Lyf og heilsa, Egilsgata 3, tel: 563 1020 price per fare is 350 ISK for adults and children. Information: 118 weekends 09:00–17:00, although each pool Multiple day passes are available for purchase at Taxi: Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir: 588 5522 Lyfja, Laugavegur 16, tel: 552 4045 and Lág- varies plus or minus a few hours. select locations. Complete route map available BSR: 561 0000 múla 5, tel: 533 2300 Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri 09:00- at: www.bus.is. Tel: 540 2700. Buses run from Tax-Free Refund Coach Terminal 16:00. 07:00–24:00 on weekdays and 10:00–24:00 on BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Post Offices Iceland Refund, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 564 6400 weekends. Main terminals are: Hlemmur and tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Tourist Information Lækjartorg. Post offices are located around the city. The Domestic Airlines downtown post office is at Pósthússtræti 3–5, Arctic Adventures, Laugavegur 11, Opening Hours open Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00. Stamps are also tel: 562 7000 Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Bars and clubs: According to regulations, sold at bookstores, gas stations, tourist shops tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is bars can stay open until 01:00 on weekdays and City Centre, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 590 1550 and some grocery stores. Eagle Air, Hótel Loftleiðir, tel: 562 4200 04:30 on weekends. C Iceland Excursions – Grayline Iceland, Hafnarstræti 20, tel: 540 1313

All the games and all the action! Live music!

Save Water, Drink Beer

D 6 7 8 9 New In Town Venue Finder Music & Entertainment Austur Gaukurinn Austurstræti 7 | C3 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 B5 Hressó Bankastræti 5 | D4 Austurstræti 20 | D3 Bar 11 Húrra Hverfisgötu 18 | E5 Tryggvagata 22 | C3 Bíó Paradís Kaffibarinn Hverfisgata 54 | E5 Bergstaðastræti 1 | E4 Bjarni Fel Kaldi Bar / Café Austurstræti 20 | E4 Laugavegur 20b | E5 Boston Kigali Laugavegur 28b | E5 Ingólfsstræti 8 | E4 13 Brooklyn Bar Brikk Kofinn Hafnarstræti 18 | C4 Laugavegur 2 | E5 Austurstræti 3 Bunk Lavabarinn Walking in to Brooklyn Bar, you are immediately struck Laugavegur 28 | E5 Lækjargata 6 | E4 with the nightclub cum pizza oven décor—it’s warm Café Rósenberg Loft Hostel and cozy, has loud hip hop playing downstairs even in Klapparstígur 25 | E5 Bankastræti 7 | E4 the early parts of the evening. The upstairs is a great Coocoo's Nest Paloma venue for carousing with the lads or lasses, with its Grandagarður 23 | B2 Naustin 1-3 | D3 gigantic projector screen displaying the latest match. Den Danske Kro Prikið The grub is stalwart and hearty, but the real gen of the Ingólfsstræti 3 | E4 Bankastræti 12 | E4 place is its lavatories: they are stylish, spacious and Dillon Reykjavík Roasters ergonomically sound. Laugavegur 30 | E5 Kárastígur 1 | F5 Dolly Stofan Café 13 Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 Vesturgata 3 | D3 Dubliner Thorvaldsen I H Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D3 Austurstræti 8 | D3 English Pub Ölsmiðjan Austurstræti 12 | D3 Lækjargata 10 | E4 S S Frederiksen Ale House Ölstofan KÚL Æ BR Hafnarstræti 5 | D3 Vegamótastígur 4 | E5 AG A AT U A T Museums & Galleries LIN ART67 Reykjavík Art Gallery DAR GA Laugavegur 67 | F7 Skúlagata 30 | F7 TA Mon-Fri 12-18 / Sat Tue-Sun 14–18 12-16 www.artmuseum.is T. SS Ásgrimur Jónsson Reykjavík Art

TN Museum Museum - VA TÚN Bergstaðastræti 74 | G4 Hafnarhús BORGAR Mon-Fri through Sept. 1 Tryggvagata 17 | D3 The Einar Jónsson Open 10-17 Museum Thursday 10-20 Eiriksgata | G6 Kjarvalsstaðir GUR Flókagata 24 10 N Tue–Sun 14–17 Open 10-17 TÚ www.skulptur.is ASTÍ N GR A Ásmundarsafn E R SKÚL T Ð TÚ KK TISG Hafnarborg Sigtún F A GU AG AT ÓA Í ÍGUR T AT Strandgata 34, Haf- Open 10-17 A T A FR Hlemmur HÖ N S narfjörður AU www.listasafnreykja- SST Bus Terminal TA M www.hafnarborg.is vikur.is N BR Ta xi IÐ VI F T Ó Hannesarholt NJ R 12 RA Reykjavík City Library Á Grundarstígur 10 | F4 L BA Tryggvagata 15 | D3 SG OR H AT ÁTÚ www.hannesarholt.is www.borgarbokasafn.is BE A SN N RG Hitt Húsið ÞÓ Reykjavík City Hallgríms RUG Gallery Tukt ÍGUR L Museum - A T A kirkja TA BRAUTARHOLT UG Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E3 Church S AV Árbæjarsafn EG www.hitthusid.is Kistuhylur 4 ÁR UR Hverfisgallerí Daily tours at 13 AR

Ð Hverfisgata 4 | D4 The Settlement Exhibi- Sundhöllin U www.hverfisgalleri.is tion S TÍGUR Swimming RA KI Aðalstræti 17 | D3 S P i8 Gallery EI S Pool H Open daily 10–17 N Tryggvagata 16 | D3 RÍ RÓN OL EG Ú Reykjavík Maritime KSGA BA T T Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat T Museum IL SK 13–17 and by appoint- SG ÓA AU Grandagarður 8 | B2 G TA N ment. www.i8.is AT UT Open daily 10-17 A BR RA The Icelandic Phal- Reykjavík Museum of RA SB lological Museum Photography

AR HÁ Laugavegur 116 | F8 Tryggvagata 15 | D3 TEIGS SNOR VE www.phallus.is Mon-Thur 12–19 / Fri 12- GU R Kirsuberjatréð 18 / Sat–Sun 13–17 GUNN ÍGUR Viðey Island T Vesturgata 4 | C2 FL Ferry from Skarfabakki RS ÓK AG www.kirs.is Á AT Harbour, Sat-Sun only R A Kling & Bang www.videy.com Shopping 11 Mýrin 12 Lucky Records Hverfisgata 42 | E5 Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Saga Museum Hafnarbúðir, Geirsgata 9 Rauðarástígur 10 www.this.is/klingogbang Grandagarður 2 | B2 10 KronKron www.sagamuseum.is Dealing in only the highest quality and Knitting Iceland All freshly set up in their brand new, huge Sigurjón Ólafsson Laugavegur 63b aesthetically modern of local Icelandic Laugavegur 25 | E5 location just next to Hlemmur, this is hands- Museum design, this new branch of the Mýrin story www.knittingiceland.is If it’s cutting-edge, international big name down the finest record store in town. Crate- Laugarnestangi 70 in the Kringlan mall is a fine new addition to Kunstschlager designers you are in the market for, then this diggers will marvel and fawn over their www.lso.is downtown shopping. A perfect place to find Rauðarárstígur 1 | G8 store will be to you like Willy Wonka’s factory selection while the lay music listener can SÍM that one of a kind gift for your loved one, or Mon-Sat from 15-18 was to Charlie. Fully stocked in the choicest easily pop in to pick up the latest from their www.kunstschlager.com Hafnarstræti 16 | D3 yourself! young names in fashion and some one-of-a- favourites. Live music and DJs are regularly Mon-Fri 10-16 Living Art Museum www.sim.is kind local designs too—the shoes are not to scheduled for live entertainment. Skúlagata 28 | E7 be missed! Tue-Sun 12-17 Spark Design Space Klapparstígur 33 | E5 www.nylo.is The National and University Library, M-Fri 12-18, Sat 12-16 Public Phones Public Toilets Mengi Arngrímsgata 3 www.sparkdesign- There aren’t many public payphones in the Public toilets in the centre can be found Óðinsgata 2 | F5 space.com Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2 city centre. The tourist information centre inside the green-poster covered tow- Mokka Kaffi Tveir Hrafnar at Aðalstræti 2, City Hall, Kolaportið, Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2 ers located, for example, at Hlemmur, Skólavörðustígur 3A | F5 Baldursgata 12 | G4 entrance at Landsbankinn and in Lækjar- Reykjavík Backpackers, Laugavegur 28 Ingólfstortorg, by Hallgrímskirkja, by www.mokka.is Thu-Fri 12-17, Sat 13-16 gata. Prepaid international phone cards Swimming Pools Reykjavík Art Museum, Lækjargata and by The National Gallery www.tveirhrafnar.is Eymundsson on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets of Iceland are recommended for int’l callers. There are several swimming pools in Wind & Weather can also be found inside the Reykjavík Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F3 Gallery Internet Access Reykjavík. The one in 101 Reykjavík, Tue–Sun 11–17 City Hall and the Reykjavík Library. Hverfisgata 37 | E5 Most cafés offer free wireless internet Sundhöll Reykjavíkur, is an indoor one, www.listasafn.is www.windandweather.is located at Barónsstígur. It features a access. Computers with internet connec- The National Museum ÞOKA tions are available to use at: nice sunbathing area and some outdoor Suðurgata 41 | F2 Laugavegur 25 | E5 Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 hot tubs. Opening hours: Mon-Thu from Open daily 10–17 www.thoka.is 06:30–22:00, Fri from 06:30–20:00, www.natmus.is Ground Zero, Frakkastígur 8, near The Nordic House Laugavegur 45, Sat from 08:00–16:00 and Sun from 10:00–18:00. Sturlugata 5 The Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 Tue–Sun 12–17 F www.nordice.is

E Best Of Reykjavík Every year around the beginning of July, we make a BEST OF REYKJAVÍK ISSUE celebrating some of what makes Reykjavík-life worthwhile, posting some good entries into a hopefully never-ending discussion. The primary purpose of BEST OF REYKJAVÍK is celebration! It’s about big-upping stuff, giving mad props to it and patting it on the shoulder. The following are some nice tips we pulled from BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2014 which you can read in full at www.grapevine.is.

BEST BAKERY: BEST GALLERY: BEST PLACE TO GET SANDHOLT KLING OG BANG A TRENDY HAIRCUT: RAUÐHETTA OG ÚLFURINN Laugavegur 36 Hverfisgata 42 Skólavörðustígur 8

Sandholt is another perennial Grapevine At a recent exhibition including both It turns out that restaurants and stores 230 kr. favourite that continues to deliver. And a jar of peas and a video installation in Reykjavík aren’t the only businesses sure, its fresh croissants, pastries, of a wiggling, polka-dotted ass, one benefiting from Iceland’s tourism boom. breads, sandwiches and baked goods Grapeviner nodded conclusively: “This Apparently, we’ve heard, hairdressers will set you back marginally more than is art.” And yes, our panellists agree are getting a lot of drop-ins from tourists. some of the city’s other top-of-the- that Kling og Bang is the heart of “I want Icelandic hair,” they say. “Give me line bakeries, but you won’t regret Reykjavík’s grassroots art scene, “the Icelandic hair.” While many (if not most) spending the extra krónur, particularly place where you see work by artists people go to the same hairdresser, and if owner Ásgeir Sandholt has done who aren’t making money.” But there’s our hairdresser admitted that she would the day’s baking. A fourth-generation a lot of high profile work shown there, never just drop in somewhere random baker, Ásgeir still uses the same oven too. Recently, K&B hosted a five-part while vacationing in Rome, people 290 kr. that his predecessors used when the multimedia performance series in apparently have great faith in Icelanders bakery opened in 1920, although he has collaboration with New York’s ESP TV, wielding scissors. Now, you don’t have changed up nearly everything else about and “The Visitors” by fellow Reykjavík to go somewhere completely random the place, including the bread recipe gallery i8’s artist, Ragnar Kjartansson. though. Go to Rauðhetta og úlfurinn Osushi is a unique (a deceptively simple one which was (‘Little Red Riding Hood’), a three-time in use 100 years ago). The bakery also Grapevine winner that has stood the test rest aurant in Iceland. expanded its seating area which makes of time, consistently delivering new and stopping here for coffee and cake quite trendy haircuts. The met hod of dining involves cosy, no matter the weather. 315 kr. snatching small plates from a conveyor belt. Pricing is Iða Zimsen A GUIDE Coffee happy hour weekdays 8:00 to 10:00, distinguished by the color weekends 10:00-12:00 All coffee 300 ISK. Every day from 19:00 to 22:00. Beer 445 ISK. and pattern of the plate – THAT FUCKS Kaldi Bar Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. most range between YOU UP Beer for 650 ISK, Wine for 650 ISK. Kiki Queer Bar 350 kr. 230 - 440 ISK. Thursday from 21:00 to 01:00. A list of every Beer 500 ISK, Shots 500 ISK. Kolabrautin Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. Beer 450 ISK, Everything off the convey or Happy Hour in Wine 500 ISK, Cocktails 1,000 ISK. 101 Reykjavík Lebowski Bar belt is tasty and if you don´t Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. 2 for 1 Beer and Wine 1,100 ISK. really fancy sushi, you can 101 Hótel Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. Beer 600 ISK, Loft Hostel Bar instead choose for ex ample Wine 840 ISK, Cocktails 1,500 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Beer 600 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. 400 kr. Austur teriyaki chicken, noodle Thursday to Saturday from 20:00 to 00:00. Micro Bar Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 700 ISK. Beer 800 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. salad, tempura and desserts. B5 Mímisbar Every day from 16:00 to 22:00. Beer 550 ISK, Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK, Cider 700 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Wine 650 ISK, Cocktail of the day 1,100 ISK, Shot + Beer 1,000 ISK. The vibe in Osushi is friendly Bar 7 Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Beer 350 ISK, Miðgarður Bistro bar Shot 450 ISK Download the FREE Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK, and relaxed. The restaurant is Wine 600 ISK, all drinks half price. Bar 11 420 kr. located almost next door to Thursday from 21:00 to 1:00. Beer 450 ISK Grapevine Appy Nora Magasin Friday to Saturday from 21:00 to 00:00. Beer Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Hour app! Beer 650 ISK, House Wine 600 ISK. Althingi (the parliament) which 500 ISK Bíó Paradís Park is in the heart of the city. Monday to Sunday from 17:00 to 19:30. Every happy hour in Friday to Saturday from 22:00 to 04:30. Beer 500 ISK, Shot 400 ISK. 500 ISK all beers, 500 ISK selected wines. town in your pocket. Bjarni Fel Prikið Monday to Friday from 21:00 to 23:00. 2 for 1 Available in the App Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 20:00. osushi.is Beer 990 ISK, single with mixer 1,300 ISK. Beer 500 ISK. Store and on the Boston Rio Sport Bar Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Android Market. Monday to Sunday from 12:00 to 19:00. Beer 440 kr. Beer 600 ISK, Wine 650 ISK. 500 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Dubliner Bravó Every day from 16:00 until 22:00. Beer 600 Slippbarinn Every day from 17:00 to 21:00. ISK, 2 for 1 Wine 1,000 ISK. Every day from 15:00 to 18:00. Beer 500 ISK, Beer 500 ISK, Wine 750 ISK. Wine 500 ISK, selected Cocktails 1,000 ISK. Einar Ben Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Bunk Bar Beer 500 ISK , Wine 800 ISK Solon Bistro Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Weekdays from 15:00 to 18:00. Beer 500 ISK, Wine 750 ISK. Frederiksen Ale House Beer 650 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Cafe Haiti 2 for 1 Beer 1,000 ISK and Wine 1,100 ISK Stofan Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 650 ISK, Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Beer 750 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. Gaukurinn Wine 950 ISK 480 kr. Every day from 20:00 to 22:00. Den Danske Kro Beer 500 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Thorvaldsen Bar Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. 2 for 1 Beer Monday to Saturday from 16:00 to 20:00. Beer 1,000 ISK and 2 for 1 Wine 1,200 ISK. Glaumbar 500 ISK, Wine 600 ISK. Thursday to Saturday from 20:00 to 00:00. Dillon Beer 500 ISK, Shot 390 ISK. Tíu Dropar Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Beer 550 ISK, Every day from 18:00 to 21:00. 2 for 1 Wine for Wine for 700 ISK, Whiskey 550 ISK. Hótel 1919 1,000 ISK and Beer 1,000 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 600 ISK, Dolly Wine 575 ISK, Cocktail 1,050 ISK Vínsmakkarinn Pósthússtræti 13 / Borgartúni 29 / Reykjavíkurvegur 60 HF. Wednesday to Thursday from 20:00 to 22:00, Monday to Sunday from 17:00 to 20:00. Friday to Saturday from 20:00 to 23:00. Beer Húrra Beer 600 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Tel: 561 0562 / www.osushi.is Every day from 18:00 to 22:00. Beer 500 ISK, 600 ISK, Wine 600 ISK. Wine 700 ISK. ART Route 40 takes you to ONGOING

ASÍ Art Gallery Experience Ladies, Beautiful Ladies Birgir Birgisson follows up on the questions at the heart of the politics of representation, addressed through the visual negotiations of blondes in our Icelandic Art cultural environment. This exhibition presents a variety of works that reach from painting on canvas to installation, to works on paper and connects them to the and Design issue of how identities are made, shaped, distributed and retold. on your way to the Blue Lagoon Runs until December 31 Better Weather Window Gallery ‘Framsóknarmaðurinn’ by Snorri Ásmundsson The opening exhibition for this new window gallery is by artist Snorri Ásmundsson Route 40 who seeks to affect society with public events. He enjoys observing peoples response when accepted values are turned upside down. Runs until November 29 Kópavogur Art Museum The Coocoo’s Nest Óp / Op / Gerðarsafn 'DEUS' by Þórdís Claessen Icelandic Jewellery Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur Visual artist Þórdís Claessen's newest and silverwork Open 11–17 / Closed on Mondays painting exhibit is an ode to music, in Hughrif www.gerdarsafn.is which rock 'n' roll is taken to the divine Hólmfríður Árnadóttir level. The show consists of icons and holy imagery, where the religious aspect is replaced by instruments, pedals and PRÝÐI Hönnunarsafn Íslands / Museum of Design other musical paraphernalia. Icelandic Jewellery and Applied Art Runs until November 9 and silverwork Impress and Depress Garðatorg 1, Garðabær The Einar Jónsson Museum Are You Ready The museum contains close to 300 'New Works' by Jón Óskar Open 12–17 / Closed on Mondays artworks including a beautiful garden Madam President? www.honnunarsafn.is with 26 bronze casts of the artist’s The National Gallery sculptures. On permanent view Fríkirkjuvegur 7 (F3) | Nov 7 - Feb 8 | 10-17 | 1,000 ISK LIP-STICKS Hafnarborg Gallerí Fold Works by 7 contemporary / The Hafnarfjordur Centre Þorsteinn Helgason, who is known for Jón Óskar’s artwork is at once a part of, and unique from Iceland’s artists of Culture and Fine Art Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður his oil and acrylic paintings, has a new chaotically diverse art scene. His works are often considered too Works from the exhibit up. He’s got quite a body of work Open 12–17 / Thursdays 12–21 and exhibits them at Gallery Fold. large, too different, or too alien for Icelandic tastes—he frequently collection of Closed on Tuesdays Runs until November 9 exposes his canvases to corrosive chemicals, hot wax, or other Hafnarborg www.hafnarborg.is Jóhann Smári exhibits two of his forms of damage, before then repairing them again, leaving his by Elías B. Halldorsson photographs of Eyjafjallajökull, that finished paintings bearing the scars of ill treatment. By using a mountain that everyone was talking about back in 2010. narrow spectrum of colour, his paintings are bound to impress and Runs until November 30 depress. His works then explore the conflict between the surface Gallerí Skilti of the picture plane and the subjects he portrays, whether they are Pura Vida British artist S. Mark Gubb went to portraits, historical themes, or personal references. SV Costa Rica, got inspired by the casual Gerðarsafn Hornið (Gallery) atmosphere and the concept of “pura AIM XV ‘Take two’ by Jóhann Vilhjálmsson vida,” the catchall phrase for positivity. So Sculptor Helgi Hjaltalín Eyjólfsson and Artist Jóhann Vilhjálmsson is a chef by he brought it to Reykjavík with a sign that visual artist Pétur Örn Friðriksson have a profession and has practiced singing, points anyone in the right direction to find show together focusing on goals. music and drawing from early age. their own Pura Vida, or good life. Runs until November 15 Jóhann uses a collection of different Runs until December 15 Hafnarborg pens, pastel colours and ink in his work. Gallerí Tukt Lip-Sticks His pictures are steeped in symbolism "Please come. It is important for This is an engaging exhibition of paintings and surrealism, with a fluid sense of me..." by leading young Icelandic artists form. The works include portraits, album Ganna Shvarova is a Ukrainian artist who dazzle the viewer with colourful covers, landscapes, animal and nature studying in Iceland whose exhibition narratives and blunt attitudes. The pictures, magic and witchcraft. dives into the perception of womanhood— artists are Gabríela Friðriksdóttir, Runs until November 18 she explores the transformation of the Guðmundur Thoroddsen, Helgi i8 human soul, feelings and emotions. Þórsson, Hulda Vilhjálmsdóttir, Ragnar 'Along The Shore' by Lawrence Runs until November 14 Þórisson, Þorvaldur Jónsson and Þórdís Weiner What Does A Person Experience Aðalsteinsdóttir. This is Lawrence third solo show at i8. When They Step Into New Runs until January 4 Lawrence is one of the founding figures Surroundings? Hverfisgallery of the conceptual arm of post minimalism, A group of young Icelanders travelled to Sigtryggur Bjarni Baldvinsson's paintings, and the exhibition features wall works, the southern part of Ethiopia this August, watercolours and photographic work. drawings and objects based on language, to experience a foreign culture in a Water-based leitmotifs such as running which is Lawrence’s primary medium. country that has a drastically different water and oceanic surfaces are woven Runs until November 29 infrastructure from Iceland. This group into his work, reflecting the elements of The Icelandic Phallological exhibit is a result of that journey. light, air and earth and nature’s unique Museum Runs until November 14 powers such as wind and gravity. The museum contains a collection of Runs until November 22 more than 215 penises and penile parts Quality - Experience - Dedication Are you the EAST Learn Icelandic CITY CITY at Mímir CENTRE Tourist of the Year?

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Living Art Museum Laboratory Aim Density – FOREVER! just ended Rebecca Moran is launching her solo exhibition in the museums’ new project space in Völvufell 13-21. The museum is also opening its doors to the Living Collection; the new collection and archive space. Moran’s work often delves into the subjective approach to the everyday. Runs until November 13 Mokka Kaffi ‘Músik & Sport’ by Stephan Stephensen In this exhibition Stephen revisits an odd little shop from his childhood, that he cites as the starting point where he embarked on the journey to become the man he is today. The show offers a glimpse into that journey. As a founding member of electronic band Gusgus, the exhibition also features a photographic chronicle of his time with the group. Runs until 6 December Museum of Design and Applied Art Are you ready, Madam President? The exhibition displays clothing and other accessories from the wardrobe of former Icelandic President Vigdís Finnbogadóttir. The exhibition gives visitors a glimpse into Vigdís's preferences in choosing her wardrobe and style, and also the personal lives and habits of heads of state. Runs until February 22 Prýði To celebrate 90 years of the Goldsmith’s Association of Iceland, 40 icelandic goldsmiths will exhibit their works. Expect a diverse variety of jewellery and other Home Sweet Home pieces, with inspiration spanning from over the century. 'Lumine Maris Ubique' by Alexander Zaklynsy Runs until January 25 National Gallery Gallery Bakarí Video Screenings at the Café The Vasulkas have taken over the café Skólavörðustíg 40 (F5) | Nov 21 –Dec 5 | 12 - 18 | Free! video space, leaving visitors with material spread over three floors where they can Home Sweet Home acts as a homecoming exhibition of sorts for experience many of Steina and Woody artist Alexander Zaklynsy, who has been in a self-imposed exile for Vasulka's greatest work. Runs until November 7 the past three years (ie: partaking in artist residencies all over the Vasulka Chamber world). His new exhibit takes inspiration from the late Dieter Roth For the 130th anniversary of the National and his changing physical environments. In this particular exhibit, Gallery, the gallery will showcase the Alexander will be showing new works on paper and in bronze, Vasulka Chamber, a department of video and media art. aluminum and wood. TD On permanent view The National Museum belonging to almost all the land and sea post-transition metal element. Icelandic Silverwork mammals that can be found in Iceland. Runs until November 23 Visitors can see various silver pieces and There's also a penis sculpture honoring Kunstschlager the methods of their making at this exhibit by the sea the Icelandic men's handball team, Phenomenal commemorating the 150th anniversary of though confusingly it does not feature This project is a collaborative one between the National Museum of Iceland. and a delicious lobster their actual penises. performance artists who use public Runs until December 31 On permanent view space as their canvas. The exhibition at Sodium Sun at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri Kex Hostel Kunstschlager then brings all the live Photographer Stuart Richardson exhibits Look Into The Light performances together under one roof, a series of photographs on Icelandic A photography exhibition celebrating recorded and documented in a variety streetlights, their locales and the weather. Reykjavík’s beloved annual music festival. of ways. Runs until December 31 It featuring images from some of the Runs until November 22 The Making Of A Nation best local music photographers and Listamenn Gallerí This exhibition is intended to provide insight showcases a wide range of local and Oh no! Einar Örn used his time to into the history of the Icelandic nation, international artists, including Ásgeir, draw from the country's settlement to the Emilíana Torrini, Fucked Up, John Grant, Einar Örn is not widely known for his present day. Omar Souleyman and Sigur Rós. drawings. He is though known for his On permanent view Runs until November 25 activity with The Sugarcubes and plays Snapshots Of A Moment Kling & Bang this festival with his band Ghostigital. Þorsteinn Jósepsson was a widely travelled Bismuth Runs until November 22 author and journalist. Þorsteinn’s This is a solo exhibition by Daníel Björnsson photography presents an intricate examining the crystalline, colourful, brittle panorama of Icelandic life and a rapidly changing rural landscape. His collection of photographs is one of the largest, most At the seashore the giant lobster makes important and most comprehensive private collections from the 20th century. Spör ehf. appointments with mermaids and landlubbers. Runs until December 31 Rammagerðin He waves his large claws, attracting those desiring Closing Down Event The folks at Rammagerðin are moving shop to be in the company of starfish and lumpfish. from Hafnarstræti 19, as the building is being torn down. Designer Hugrún Ívarsdóttir will talk customers through her designs, and on Saturday and Sunday Organic bistro there will be free customly cut laufabrauð on offer. EST 2006 Runs until November 10 Reykjavík Art Museum - Reykjavík Ásmundarsafn A posteriori: House, Sculpture Stokkseyri A posteriori, or “from what comes after,” Eyrarbakki is a selection of artworks with original - The Seashore restaurant references to buildings or houses. The artists involved in the exhibition have > Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík used existing or fabricated architecture to create new works. Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 Runs until February 1 Tryggvagata 11,Volcano house Reykjavík Art Museum - Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is Tel:511-1118 Hafnarhús Summer opening hours: Mon - Sun 12:00 to 22:00 Mon-Sun 12:00-21:00 'Flatland' by Sirra Sigrún In her exhibition, Sirra Sigrún juxtaposes www.fishandchips.is structural stasis with movement by ART ONGOING

integrating video with text, movement and sculpture. The exhibit's title is a reference, among other things, to a book of the same title published in 1884 which is a satirical portrayal of the social hierarchy using the language of mathematics and geometry. Runs until January 25 Synthesis This international exhibition comprises works by seven artists. The artists make three-dimensional installations which share the qualities of reflecting a certain perception, thinking and rhythm, which may be seen as an echo of life itself, of primal forces, the structure of the fabric of the world and the ongoing genesis of the universe. Runs until January 15 Worlds And Ways This exhibition is a selection of works by Gunter Damisch from the 1980s to 2013. On display are both graphic works which Gunter has given Reykjavík Art Museum and a selection of other works by him. The works are highly individual iconography and mythology oscillates between figuration and abstraction. Runs until January 25 Reykjavík Art Museum - Kjarvalsstaðir 'Roundabouts' by Andreas Eriksson Andreas Eriksson is one of the most acclaimed Swedish artists of his generation. The exhibition presents Eriksson’s works from the last ten years, spanning his entire oeuvre including painting, photography, sculpture, film and textile. Runs until January 4 Top Soil -Š,+"3("5"
 For the exhibition, artist Andreas Eiriksson has selected paintings and drawings Airwaves In Focus 
3 & : , +"7 ¶ ,




by Kjarval, which will be shown along with new work by Andreas himself in Look At The Light 5&-

 appreciation of Kjarval’s art. X X XKPNGSVJOJT Runs until January 4 KEX Hostel The Reykjavík City Library The collection centres around new Nordic Skúlagata 28 (E7) | Nov 4 - 25 | 10-17 | Free! literature, both fiction and nonfiction. The library lends out novels, academic Airwaves fever has officially descended upon Reykjavík, and will publications, audiobooks and more. linger on long after the festival finishes. To celebrate this ultra fun On permanent view Reykjavík City Museum time of the year, some of the country's most talented photographers The Settlement Exhibition have pooled their talents to bring you some photographic delights, Archaeological findings from ruins of one celebrating the Iceland Airwaves festival. MC of the first houses in Iceland (from 871 Photo by Magnús Elvar Jónsson AD, give or take two years) and other excavations in the city centre. every European capital. Using Open Volcano House On permanent view Street Map (OSM) data, the maps are The exhibition gives a brief overview of Reykjavík Maritime Museum meant to represent a view of the cities Iceland’s geological history and volcanic From Poverty to Abundance rather than try to capture the reality of systems with superb photographs of Photos documenting Icelandic fishermen at them, because cities are not static like volcanic eruptions and other magnificent the turn of the 20th century. maps but are continuously evolving over aspects of Icelandic nature. On permanent view time. On permanent view The History of Sailing Runs until November 11 Wind And Weather Gallery Iceland's maritime museum showcases the Týsgalleri 'Enter. Space.' by Auður Ómarsdóttir growth of the Reykjavík Harbour through 'Are You Sure' by Björk Guðnadóttir The exhibit focuses on those two buttons: history. Björk Guðnadóttir's exhibits three enter and space. Both make space. Enter On permanent view photographic works and a video gives you an invisible pass into another The Coast Guard Vessel Óðinn installation made over the last two years. realm or a leap down as far as possible. This vessel sailed through all three Cod Björk explores the eternal and ever Space gives you an invisible room that Wars and has also served as a rescue challenging questions on the existence of keeps words apart from each other. ship to over 200 ships. mankind, the impulse of humans to make Runs until December 29 On permanent view things and creating new dimensions in The Reykjavík Museum of our conscience. Photography Runs until November 22 Girl Culture 'KOK' by Kristín Eiríksdóttir The exhibit focuses on the central role Kristín exhibits illustrations from her latest occupied by popular culture in the book, 'KOK.' construction or deconstruction of female Runs until November 22 identity. The exhibition consists of portrait images and interviews that cast a light on the experiences and expressions of women today. Runs until January 11 'Iceland' by Beth Yarnelle Edwards Fascinated with the relations between people, their living spaces and possessions, the San Francisco based photographer Beth Yarnelle Edwards collaborates with her subjects to recreate scenes from their daily lives. The Iceland series was created when she spent a summer month in Iceland. Her aim is to seek out intersections of the mythic and mundane. Runs until December 9 Sím ‘Single Lines’ by Erla Þórarinsdóttir The exhibition consists of painted metal sheets where the paint is allowed to run down the sheet and continue in a straight line. Runs until November 25 Spark Design Space 'Urban Shape' by Paolo Gianfrancesco The exhibition by artist Paolo Gianfrancesco is a series of maps of FOOD FOR YOUR MIND BODY AND SOUL

As Icelandic As The Wind And Rain

Café Loki got was “hangikjöt.” the rye bread is really delicious, and goes Hangikjöt quickly became popular wonderfully well with a crisp white wine Lokastígur 28, 101 Reykjavík among the locals and is by now ubiqui- or an ale with a sweet or malty finish. tous—if you want a taste, you can find it at For our main course we both had the What We Think: pretty much any supermarket (or gas sta- crown jewel of Icelandic cuisine, Icelandic Seems like a tourist trap, tion for that matter). However, if you want meat soup (“íslensk kjötsúpa”) (1,750 ISK). but it isn‘t. to properly feast on the recently tradition- This very traditional soup is basically a al dish, in a nice and cosy setting, Café Loki broth of lamb, carrots, yellow turnips and Flavour: is your place, as I learned one rainy, windy onions, flavoured with parsley and made Traditional Icelandic. Sunday afternoon. a bit heavier with a handful of rice. This Ambiance: Without ever actually visiting the version is the classic, which most Iceland- Very clean. The sound system place, I had always considered Café Loki ers grew up eating on a regular basis. It blares '50s Icelandic pop to be a tourist trap. My prejudice probably is a very comforting dish, even though it standards. stems from the fact that the restaurant is is often bland and sometimes too greasy. Service: located right across the road from Reyk- While it was perfectly balanced in the javík’s main tourist attraction, Hallgrím- Very polite, enthusiastic grease department, we found Café Loki’s skirkja, surrounded by B&Bs, hotels and kjötsúpa to be a bit lacking in flavour—a young servers. guesthouses. I am very happy to report bolder approach to the seasoning would Price for 2 (no drinks): that I was absolutely wrong on this ac- have made a big difference. Still, the soup 5-6,000 ISK (very fair). count. made for a very satisfactory meal, espe- Arriving at Café Loki, my companion cially once we poured a bit of Tabasco in and I were given some of the best tables there (I‘m not kidding, it makes ALL the WE DON’T SELL in the place, with a great view of Hall- difference!). grímskirkja and Skólavörðuholt. There is For dessert, we decided to share a Is there any Icelandic culinary tradition something quite comfortable about sitting house speciality, a rye bread ice cream to speak of? This is a question I’ve often in a warm and bright restaurant, gleefully topped with whipped cream (750 ISK), WHALE MEAT struggled with. Some of our more “tradi- observing passersby struggling with Reyk- a delightfully simple dish that serves to tional” dishes might be rooted in Nordic javík’s strong autumn wind. underline the sweetness of Icelandic rye Restaurants that have this logo promise not to sell culture—as our Scandinavian neighbours Café Loki offers a fine sampling of bread. And it was a real treat, the soft seem to have similar ones—but most of whale meat. We kindly ask you to choose what’s officially deemed “Icelandic food.” homemade ice cream contrasting nicely what gets called “traditional Icelandic They bake fresh rye bread daily (the kind with the almost crunchy pieces of rye. a whale friendly restaurant and to recommend food” these days was simply created out of of dense, almost cake-like rye bread that is I must admit, Café Loki took me by others to do the same. chance or necessity. sweet and malty in flavour) along with tra- surprise, and I learned my previous ideas Smoked lamb (“hangikjöt”), for exam- ditional Icelandic pancakes and flatbreads about it being a tourist trap were entirely ple, only became popular in the late 19th/ (“flatkökur”). unfair and unfounded. With very fair Whaling is cruel and unnecessary early 20th century, after failed attempts Café Loki’s menu basically consists of prices and above-average food, it’s safe to by Icelandic farmers to breed sheep for rye bread or flatbread topped with various recommend Café Loki to anyone wanting exporting purposes. Suddenly Icelanders delicacies, including pickled herring, eggs to try a bit of local flavour. had an overabundance of lamb meat to or lamb paté. For a starter we chose a rye contend with, and the only way to keep it bread with smoked arctic char and cottage 2014 edible was to cure and smoke the hell out cheese (1,290 ISK), which I highly recom- –201 of it, in the style that our Danish overlords 5 mend. The contrast of the salty and smoky BJÖRN TEITSSON liked to treat their fabled pork. What we fish against the sweetness and density of ANNA DOMNICK

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Drive-Thru & Rib-Up

Dirty Burger & Ribs ing another internet foodie evangelize with barstools and a liquor license. Which about the Maillard reaction but I get it. is slightly odd when you consider that the Miklabraut 101, 108 Reykjavík People like burgers, and it’s hard not to place is very difficult to access without a see why. Icelanders are gradually recover- motorized vehicle. What We Think: ing from the recession, but, as before, it’s Dirty Burger & Ribs has four items on Best ribs, so-and-so burgers the top percent who are profiting better the menu: The burger (990 ISK), the fries Flavour: than ever, and the bottom 50% are only (390 ISK), the pork spare ribs (990 ISK) just clawing their way to the lofty heights and shakes (690 ISK). Smokey, fatty, tangy, meaty, of living hand-to-mouth with rising food The burger is good but suffered from American prices (unless they can get by on that 250 excessive hype. An almost-slider with a Ambiance: ISK/meal). well-cooked chunk of above-average beef, Dependent on the comfort level So, unless Reykjavík turns into Lon- relish-mayo and unmelted cheese. The of your car don’s successor, and the rich start moving bread is good, the meat is good, and it all Service: here en masse, a moderately priced burger tastes quite a bit like Hamborgarabúllan. Fast and friendly remains a more viable business plan than The main attraction is the ribs. They yet another high-end eatery. To drive the get them completely right. Even down to Price for 2 (no drinks): point home, Dirty Burger & Ribs offered offering extra BBQ sauce and wet wipes, 2,500-3,500 ISK free burgers on their opening day back in two essentials that are too often over- August, and the line stretched for hours— looked. The ribs were dripping off the putting on display hundreds of Icelanders bone like a gaggle of Nazis spooning on who valued their hour at no more than $8 top of the Ark of the Covenant, and the and change. meaty fibres put up less resistance than It’s easy to assume Aggi may have Norway—if Quisling had been a sweet and When I first heard that native Icelander taken two recent success stories from the tangy sauce. These are the best damn ribs Agnar ‘Aggi’ Sigurðsson, the founder of UK—where he lives and works—as his in- I’ve had in Iceland. And Dirty Burger & Michelin-awarded London restaurant spiration. Firstly, there’s the biggest over- Ribs is the best drive-thru join in Iceland Texture, was opening up a drive-thru in night retail success story of an Icelander in (although with Aktu-Taktu as the nearest The Motherland, I immediately ran to the London, ever, in the form of the Tommi’s competition, this may be damning with tallest peak of social media and let out a Burger Joint (aka Hamborgarabúlla Tó- faint praise). tweet of joy, which blew through its ver- masar) franchise. Secondly we have the (One last thing. Since we’re naming dant fields. Hark! I harkened! I pictured familiarly named franchise “Dirty Burger” places after storylines in Trailer Park Boys gravlax and heirloom tomato sandwiches, in Kentish Town in London. In addition to I would like to request that the next drive- trout ceviche with local herbs, and foie the name, Dirty Burger & Ribs has trod a thru to open in Iceland be named after epi- gras skewers wrapped in dainty quail om- very similar path in terms of interior de- sode two of season one: "Fuck Community elettes. When I learned it was only going sign. Both are faux-rustic seaside shacks, College, Let's Get Drunk and Eat Chicken to serve burgers and ribs I collapsed like with the London one favouring corru- Fingers." They should serve chicken fin- a puppet with its strings cut. I stared into gated iron and the Reykjavík one favour- gers, rum, and coke. Please make this hap- the rainy Icelandic summer and nibbled ing something like driftwood. It would pen.) forlornly at the celebratory prosciutto hats have made more sense if it was the other I had made for the dainty quail omelettes. way around—as corrugated siding is the Eventually, I got over it and accepted quintessential finish in Icelandic fishing that Aggi simply wanted to open a de- villages. cent drive-thru burger shack. Personally I That said, the bathroom looks nicer RAGNAR EGILSSON could go the rest of my life without hear- than my apartment. And it’s a drive-thru ANNA DOMNICK

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