Bunad and , recovering tradition or crisis of identity?

Becky Klein Valparaiso University Graduate Academic Symposium May 3, 2019 What opinions exist Irrelevant about traditional Old-fashioned costumes? Anachronism Anti-feminist

Gender-based roles Men’s bunader Hardanger bride Bunad def. “” More examples 60%

Of Norwegian women own a bunad

Norsk institutt for bunad og folkedrakt

Norwegian Institute for Bunad and folk costumes - website

- Arbeide for å framme, verne og vidareføre bruk og framstilling av bunader og folkedrakter i Noreg, som eit uttrykk for kulturell identitet og som berar av særeigne kvalitetar (Work to promote, protect, and propagate the use and production of bunader and folk costumes in , as an expression of cultural identity and of distinctive qualities)

- Vidareføre og vidareutvikle arbeidet med å gje råd om og stimulere til auka forståing for tradisjonell draktskikk som grunnlag for dagens bunader (Continue and further develop the work of advising and stimulating an improved understanding of traditional costume as a basis for today's bunader)

- Formidle kunnskap frå arbeidet og om fagfeltet (Communicate knowledge of the work and the field of study)

- Sørge for sikring, lagring, formidling, utvikling og vedlikehald av dokumentasjonssamlingane (Provide security, storage, dissemination, development, and maintenance of documentation collections)

- Vere sekretariat for det statlig oppnemnde Bunad- og folkedraktrådet (Be the secretary of the state-approved Bunad and Council) Kimono def. “something to wear” More examples

National identity What does a Ethnic heritage national costume Status (economic, marital, social, etc.) actually convey? Preferred cultural identity Cultural unity

Cultural knowledge

Cultural appropriation The double bind When Bunad and Kimono are worn

Norway Japan

1. Constitution Day, 1. Weddings Syttende Mai (May 17) 2. Births 2. Weddings 3. Funerals 3. Baptisms 4. Coming-of-age ceremony 4. Confirmations (Jan. 20 when age 20) 5. Christmas 5. Graduations 6. Any occasion requiring formal dress 6. School or work rituals 7. Retirement 8. New Year’s celebration 9. Cultural events (tea ceremony, flower arranging, theatre, dance)