Wicker Park NEW YORK — Woven Motifs Have Infiltrated Resort Accessories, Turning up in Materials Including Wicker, Leather and Metal
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▲ NEWS: SECTION II: George WWD ‘A’ ▲ Clooney’s FASHION: latest Burberry role — outlines ▲ RETAIL:The fraud trial major push Taubmans mark witness, in China, their company’s page 8. page 2. ▲ 60th year, page 9. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • July 19, 2010 • $3.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Wicker Park NEW YORK — Woven motifs have infiltrated resort accessories, turning up in materials including wicker, leather and metal. Here, clockwise from top, Proenza Schouler’s perforated shoe and Givenchy’s wedge, both in leather; Nancy Gonzalez’s crocodile and straw clutch, and John Hardy’s sterling silver necklace. Middle East Attraction: Rebound of Economy Spurs Luxe Expansion By Katya Foreman THE RETAIL PULSE IS BACK IN THE Middle East. Fashion brands point to positive trends in the region, including the return of tourists, particularly in Dubai. Wealthy Chinese are streaming in — picking up the slack from fewer Russian visitors — shoring up a fast- growing destination for Europe’s luxury players even though business isn’t near pre- recession levels. Hermès, which operates five stores in the region, is to open in Beirut, Lebanon, on July 30, with three more stores on the way over the next two years in Kuwait; Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, and Saudi Arabia. Missoni and Oscar de la Renta also plan to launch in the Middle East. De la Renta will open three See Retail, Page12 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 WWD.COM Burberry Plans Big China Push WWDMONDAY By Samantha Conti Angela Ahrendts Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear LONDON — Burberry is preparing a vigorous move on the Chinese market after sealing a FASHION deal to purchase its retail operations there for There’s plenty of action in jewelry at the moment 70 million pounds, or $107.8 million at current 6 exchange, in cash. — from stylish new costume collections to fine “This is the biggest deal we’ll do this year, and Parisian pieces coming Stateside. we’ve been in heavy dialogue about it for the past GENERAL six months,” Angela Ahrendts, Burberry’s chief executive officer, said in an interview. 1 The retail pulse is back in the Middle East as “Over the past 18 months, we have acquired fashion brands point to positive trends in the region, control of our operations in the world’s four big- including the return of tourists, particularly in Dubai. gest emerging markets: the Middle East, India, 8 George Clooney brought a bit of Hollywood to a Brazil and now China,” she said, adding that 10 small Milan courtroom on Friday, seeking justice new stores are in the pipeline for China this year. from those who would use his name for a fashion “And we are motoring ahead in all of them.” brand without his consent. Ahrendts said she will travel to China next month to walk the floors of the brand’s stores 10 Rent the Runway, the Web site for renting designer — Burberry has 50 units across 30 cities — and dresses and accessories, is stocking up, staffing learn about the needs of the market and how to up and has relocated to a 9,000-square-foot integrate the Chinese operations into the larger headquarters in New York’s TriBeCa. Burberry structure. Kevin Morrissey, executive vice president and Ahrendts plans to double the number of 10 general merchandise manager of men’s wear for Burberry stores in China to 100 in the medium term. Burberry said Friday that it purchased the 50 Macy’s Inc., died Saturday at the age of 58. stores from its long-standing Hong Kong-based EYE franchisee Kwok Hang Holdings Ltd., and ex- To celebrate its first birthday, art organization Los pects the transaction to add as much as 20 mil- ▲ 4 lion pounds, or $30.8 million, to group operating the deal. “This will give [Burberry] full control Angeles Nomadic Division hosted back-to-back Honor Fraser parties that drew a magnetic mix of celebrity and profit in the 2011-12 fiscal year. of the brand’s delivery to consumers in one of in Lanvin. Slightly less than half of Burberry’s stores are the fastest-growing luxury markets,” the firm art heavyweights. in Beijing and Shanghai. Retail sales in all 50 said. “The deal financials look excellent.” units totaled about 75 million pounds, or $115.5 Last week, Burberry reported in its first- Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 million, in the year to December 2009. Those sales quarter statement that sales in the Asia-Pacific TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. were previously reported as wholesale revenue. region rose 43 percent at actual exchange rates WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 Burberry said that as part of the deal an and 30 percent on a constant-currency basis. FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. unidentified “existing franchisee” would con- Worldwide, sales rose 30.6 percent to 282 million VOLUME 200, NO. 12. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and tinue to hold a 15 percent stake in the Chinese pounds, or $434.3 million, in the three months November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine business. In addition to the 50 stores in China, ended June 30. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: Burberry has direct control over 13 stores in Ahrendts said men’s wear and outerwear are S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional Hong Kong, one in Macau and 19 in Taiwan. big drivers of growth in China, and much po- mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Over the last 18 months, Burberry has moved tential lies with children’s wear — despite the No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, swiftly to take control over its regional licensed or country’s one-child-per-family policy. Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: franchised businesses and transform them into di- “There is so much money — spent by parents Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. rectly operated ones. It has formed joint ventures and multiple grandparents — on these only Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that in India, the Middle East and Japan, and this year children,” said Ahrendts, adding that Burberry your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with set up its own direct operations in Brazil. is mulling standalone children’s wear stores in your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be Ahrendts said all of the Chinese stores sell the country. mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 Burberry’s global collection, and about two- Ahrendts said that so far her biggest chal- or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the thirds already have been fitted with Burberry’s lenge in China was uncertainty. “I’ve been told World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened sleek new store concept. She said Burberry’s that no matter what sort of risk analysis you do companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Asia Pacific team will run the Chinese business for China, something you don’t expect will al- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, and tap into the brand’s supply chain, IT and ways happen,” she said. “There’s nothing about UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND merchandising resources, as well as its digital- the business that’s keeping me up at night, but TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED marketing strategies. the market is moving so rapidly, I’m sure some- TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED London-based Evolution Securities praised thing will happen.” MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.