▲ NEWS: SECTION II: George WWD ‘A’ ▲ Clooney’s FASHION: latest Burberry role — outlines ▲ RETAIL:The fraud trial major push Taubmans mark witness, in China, their company’s page 8. page 2. ▲ 60th year, page 9. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • July 19, 2010 • $3.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Wicker Park NEW YORK — Woven motifs have infiltrated resort accessories, turning up in materials including wicker, leather and metal. Here, clockwise from top, Proenza Schouler’s perforated shoe and Givenchy’s wedge, both in leather; Nancy Gonzalez’s crocodile and straw clutch, and John Hardy’s sterling silver necklace.

Middle East Attraction: Rebound of Economy Spurs Luxe Expansion By Katya Foreman THE RETAIL PULSE IS BACK IN THE Middle East. Fashion brands point to positive trends in the region, including the return of tourists, particularly in Dubai. Wealthy Chinese are streaming in — picking up the slack from fewer Russian visitors — shoring up a fast- growing destination for Europe’s luxury players even though business isn’t near pre- recession levels. Hermès, which operates five stores in the region, is to open in Beirut, Lebanon, on July 30, with three more stores on the way over the next two years in Kuwait; Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, and Saudi Arabia. Missoni and Oscar de la Renta also plan to launch in the Middle East. De la Renta will open three See Retail, Page12 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 WWD.COM Burberry Plans Big China Push WWDMONDAY By Samantha Conti Angela Ahrendts Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear LONDON — Burberry is preparing a vigorous move on the Chinese market after sealing a FASHION deal to purchase its retail operations there for There’s plenty of action in jewelry at the moment 70 million pounds, or $107.8 million at current 6 exchange, in cash. — from stylish new costume collections to fine “This is the biggest deal we’ll do this year, and Parisian pieces coming Stateside. we’ve been in heavy dialogue about it for the past GENERAL six months,” Angela Ahrendts, Burberry’s chief executive officer, said in an interview. 1 The retail pulse is back in the Middle East as “Over the past 18 months, we have acquired fashion brands point to positive trends in the region, control of our operations in the world’s four big- including the return of tourists, particularly in Dubai. gest emerging markets: the Middle East, India, 8 George Clooney brought a bit of Hollywood to a Brazil and now China,” she said, adding that 10 small Milan courtroom on Friday, seeking justice new stores are in the pipeline for China this year. from those who would use his name for a fashion “And we are motoring ahead in all of them.” brand without his consent. Ahrendts said she will travel to China next month to walk the floors of the brand’s stores 10 Rent the Runway, the Web site for renting designer — Burberry has 50 units across 30 cities — and dresses and accessories, is stocking up, staffing learn about the needs of the market and how to up and has relocated to a 9,000-square-foot integrate the Chinese operations into the larger headquarters in New York’s TriBeCa. Burberry structure. Kevin Morrissey, executive vice president and Ahrendts plans to double the number of 10 general merchandise manager of men’s wear for Burberry stores in China to 100 in the medium term. Burberry said Friday that it purchased the 50 Macy’s Inc., died Saturday at the age of 58. stores from its long-standing Hong Kong-based EYE franchisee Kwok Hang Holdings Ltd., and ex- To celebrate its first birthday, art organization Los pects the transaction to add as much as 20 mil- ▲ 4 lion pounds, or $30.8 million, to group operating the deal. “This will give [Burberry] full control Angeles Nomadic Division hosted back-to-back Honor Fraser parties that drew a magnetic mix of celebrity and profit in the 2011-12 fiscal year. of the brand’s delivery to consumers in one of in Lanvin. Slightly less than half of Burberry’s stores are the fastest-growing luxury markets,” the firm art heavyweights. in Beijing and Shanghai. Retail sales in all 50 said. “The deal financials look excellent.” units totaled about 75 million pounds, or $115.5 Last week, Burberry reported in its first- Classified Advertisements...... 15 million, in the year to December 2009. Those sales quarter statement that sales in the Asia-Pacific TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. were previously reported as wholesale revenue. region rose 43 percent at actual exchange rates WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 Burberry said that as part of the deal an and 30 percent on a constant-currency basis. FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. unidentified “existing franchisee” would con- Worldwide, sales rose 30.6 percent to 282 million VOLUME 200, NO. 12. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and tinue to hold a 15 percent stake in the Chinese pounds, or $434.3 million, in the three months November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine business. In addition to the 50 stores in China, ended June 30. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: Burberry has direct control over 13 stores in Ahrendts said men’s wear and outerwear are S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional Hong Kong, one in Macau and 19 in Taiwan. big drivers of growth in China, and much po- mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Over the last 18 months, Burberry has moved tential lies with children’s wear — despite the No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, swiftly to take control over its regional licensed or country’s one-child-per-family policy. Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: franchised businesses and transform them into di- “There is so much money — spent by parents Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. rectly operated ones. It has formed joint ventures and multiple grandparents — on these only Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that in India, the Middle East and Japan, and this year children,” said Ahrendts, adding that Burberry your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with set up its own direct operations in Brazil. is mulling standalone children’s wear stores in your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be Ahrendts said all of the Chinese stores sell the country. mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 Burberry’s global collection, and about two- Ahrendts said that so far her biggest chal- or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the thirds already have been fitted with Burberry’s lenge in China was uncertainty. “I’ve been told World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened sleek new store concept. She said Burberry’s that no matter what sort of risk analysis you do companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Asia Pacific team will run the Chinese business for China, something you don’t expect will al- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, and tap into the brand’s supply chain, IT and ways happen,” she said. “There’s nothing about UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND merchandising resources, as well as its digital- the business that’s keeping me up at night, but TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED marketing strategies. the market is moving so rapidly, I’m sure some- TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED London-based Evolution Securities praised thing will happen.” MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. CFDA Names Fashion Fund Finalists DAILY By Marc Karimzadeh leaders. Previous winners are: Sophie Theallet, QUOTE Alexander Wang, Rogan Gregory of Rogan, Doo- NEW YORK — The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund fi- Ri Chung, Trovata and Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro It’s a social experiment. nalists have been set. Hernandez and Jack McCollough. The winner re- “ ” The designers are: Joseph Altuzarra of ceives an award of $200,000, and the two runners- — Courtney Love on her new fashion blog. Page 9. Altuzarra, Christian Cota, Prabal Gurung, up take home as much as $50,000 each. Robert Geller, Eddie Borgo, Oliver Helden and The fund’s Selection Committee will meet Paul Marlow of Loden Dager, Pamela Love of this month with each of the 10 finalists and dis- COMING THIS WEEK Pamela Love Jewelry, Moss Lipow, Gregory cuss their most recent collections. Committee MONDAY: Capsule New York Men’s (through Tuesday). Parkinson and Billy Reid. members will also visit the finalists’ studios. • Spin Expo, New York (through Wednesday). Each finalist is being asked to partici- • CPD, Düsseldorf (through June 27). pate in a design project underwritten by Ann Taylor, and will create a unique WEDNESDAY: Hanesbrands Inc. reports second-quarter sales and The designers’ compelling look for it. They will also be a part of a earnings. “ fashion show underwritten by Frédéric portfolios clearly demonstrate that Fekkai on Oct. 19 at the Chateau THURSDAY: Columbia Sportswear Co. and VF Corp. report second- Marmont in Los Angeles. quarter sales and earnings. the future of American fashion is The 2010 winner and runners-up will be named on Nov. 15 at a gala underwrit- SUNDAY: JA New York Summer Show (through June 28). expansive and bright. ten by eBay. The fund is sponsored by J. Crew, — Steven Kolb, Council of Fashion” Designers of America and underwritten by Vogue, Theory, TODAY ON Nordstrom, American Express, Barneys “This year’s 10 finalists show a depth of cre- New York, Appleman Foundation, L’Oréal Paris, ativity and talent that is inspiring to the industry Juicy Couture, Coach, Liz Claiborne Inc. and WWD as a whole,” said Steven Kolb, executive director Lord & Taylor. of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “Fashion is probably the only industry in the .COM “The designers’ compelling portfolios clearly world where its fledgling talents are expected to demonstrate that the future of American fashion be as creatively adept at running a business as is expansive and bright.” they are at design,” said Anna Wintour, Vogue’s • Additional images from the LAND party The fashion fund, now in its seventh year, was editor in chief. “Many, clearly, are not, and it’s • Trend Report: Classic watches created by the CFDA and Vogue magazine to help through the support of the fund that these prom- • Global breaking news cultivate emerging talents with a combination of a ising designers will be able to build a future for Liz Goldwyn • Daily stock prices cash prize and a mentorship program by industry themselves—and for American fashion.” KEENAN STEFANIE PHOTO BY R 4 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 WWD.COM

Natasha More pictures at WWD.com/eyescoop. Vargas-Cooper

▲ Eva Mendes in 3.1 Phillip Lim with Rain Phoenix in Some Odd Rubies. PHOTOS COURTESY OF HARPERCOLLINS PHOTOS COURTESY MAD LOVE

WHEN NATASHA VARGAS-COOPER’S cusp of this huge change.” dog ran away last summer, the Los Dividing the book into chapters Angeles-based correspondent for The like “Smoking, Drinking, Drugging” Awl Web site swiftly turned to a very and “Working Girls” (which includes a modern mode of distraction: blogging. 1958 modeling pamphlet’s instructions PARTY PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA AND STEFANIE KEENAN SARDELLA AND STEFANIE DONATO PHOTOS BY PARTY But an unfi ltered lament of one for what to include in one’s model ▲ Royston Langdon in Levi’s with Antony Langdon in Brooks Brothers and A.P.C.; Sharon Stone in Dior. lost pup’s distraught owner this was bag — seamless extra hose and two not. Instead, Vargas-Cooper took on earrings, pearl and simple gold), her favorite television show — “Mad Vargas-Cooper deftly sidesteps the Men” — and began mining the series’ heavily-tread fashion and costumes of LAND ROVERS set pieces and story lines for cultural the series in favor of an explanation and social allusions, all in short, of the dominant typeface of the day TO CELEBRATE ITS FIRST BIRTHDAY, ART ORGANIZATION LOS ANGELES NOMADIC snappy, 150-word sound bites. (Helvetica) and the importance of the Division hosted back-to-back parties that drew a magnetic mix of celebrity and art “I was spending 45 minutes after 1962 Jackie Kennedy tour of the White heavyweights. every episode Googling House. (On “Mad Men,” On Thursday night at the Sunset Tower, rocker brothers Royston and Antony Langdon all the references,” the CBS special riveted performed with Rain Phoenix as Gift Horse Project, a band featuring a rotating group Vargas-Cooper explains. Joan Holloway and Betty of musicians and visual artists — and sometimes celebrities who think they are “I started doing the blog, Draper. In the real world, musicians. Eva Mendes backed up the crew on a cover of David Bowie’s “Moonage and it got really popular, it sparked an interior- Daydream,” but maintained no illusion about her potential for a musical career. “I really quick.” design revival through wouldn’t call it performing,” Mendes said. “I’m saying ‘la la la.’” In fact, the actress That blog — “The the mid-Sixties.) was so nervous before her debut that she had to pretend she was singing in the Footnotes of Mad Men” Perhaps most shower to calm her nerves. The mere suggestion drew a chorus of wolf calls. — is now a book, “Mad importantly, Vargas- The previous evening’s dinner party for LAND was much more subdued. Sharon Men Unbuttoned,” which Cooper offers an Stone, Joaquin Phoenix, Eva Chow, Liz Goldwyn, Marin Hopper, Lauren Taschen, Peter is due out this week, just overview of the major Morton, Katherine Ross, Michael Govan and Honor Fraser mingled amidst the Basquiats in time for the start of the ad agencies of the day and Warhols at ubercollector Eugenio Lopez’s Beverly Hills manse. Jeffrey Deitch, the AMC show’s fourth season and the iconic images new director of the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art, was having a ball on Sunday. (Of the name they produced. This immersing himself in the L.A. art world. “This is the place to be right now,” he said. change, Vargas-Cooper, particular art form, Gallerist Tony Shafrazi gave an impromptu tutorial to Rose McGowan, who confessed who majored in history at she contends, is even she’s the only person in her family who can’t draw. UCLA, says, “Footnotes more emblematic of the Eva Longoria Parker could have used a few pointers, too. “I’m a big collector of Chicano sounds so unsexy.”) era than nipped waists art and urban art,” Longoria Parker said. “I’m not a contemporary fan. That’s why I A mash-up of design and skinny ties. “Don came tonight to expose myself.” history — Vargas-Cooper, [Draper] is uncannily ▲ Honor Toms shoes founder Blake Mycoskie opted to wear his art collection, in the form of for instance, cites that good at his job,” says Fraser in slip-ons painted by artist Tyler Ramsey. other Draper (Dorothy) Vargas-Cooper, who Lanvin. “I live on a boat,” Mycoskie explained, “so I can’t collect a lot of art.” and her infl uence includes plenty of on Joan Holloway’s Sixties-era ad copy and midcentury-modern images in the book, such Manhattan apartment as a full-page shot of the — and discussion of the Marlboro Man. political, sexual and “Back then, pop pop-cultural signifi cance culture would infl uence of everything from the advertising, and now Rothkos on the walls advertising is pop of an ad agency to culture,” she says. Don Draper’s trip to ▲ “Sterling Cooper [the Palm Springs, “Mad From above: A cigarette advertising agency Men Unbuttoned” is advertisement aimed at where Draper works] like an easy, vibrant pregnant women, popular in is about cutting the fat, reference tool for the the era during which “Mad going straight to the idea thirtysomething, Sixties- Men” is set. A cover from that you should have an obsessed set. an early-Sixties lesbian emotional connection to “That period from pulp novel. a brand.” 1957 to 1963 [the years As for what to spanning the fi rst three seasons of expect when the show returns July “Mad Men”] is ripe, and you have 25, Vargas-Cooper once again cites this moment between the end of the timing. “Nineteen sixty-four will be Eisenhower era and then onwards interesting,” she says. “The Beatles to this incredible counterculture are going to hit, and if they’re smart, revolution that would come to defi ne they’ll stop shilling cigarettes and the rest of the next 30 years,” Vargas- start selling lunch boxes to tweens.” Cooper says. “The show was on the — Sarah Haight ▲ Eva Longoria Parker; Tony Shafrazi with Rose McGowan in Marchesa. ANDI VERNICK

The Lauder family and The Estée Lauder Companies are deeply saddened by the loss of Andi Vernick, a beloved friend and long-time employee of 38 years. Andi passed away peacefully and surrounded by family at her home in New Jersey on Thursday, July 15. By the time Andi retired, she had made a significant mark on our business and a strong and lasting impression on all who worked with her. Her dedication, drive and eagerness for new challenges and responsibilities made her an invaluable resource and expert during the 38 years she spent at our Company. After graduating from American University in Washington, D.C., Andi quickly established her credentials as a strong team player by initiating many procedures that are still in use today. Her achievements eventually led to her role as Vice President, Creative Design and Operations, reporting to Aerin Lauder. In 2009, Andi was asked to add her expertise as a member of the Project Management Team (PMT), developing new collateral processes to be used across The Estée Lauder Companies. Her desire for new challenges led her to take on the role of Vice President, Special Projects for Office Services, with a special assignment of managing the Corporate Archives, reporting to Rich Marzullo. Andi’s warm smile, generous heart, friendship and good spirit will be sorely missed by her friends and colleagues. Andi was devoted to her family and spoke frequently with pride and affection of her mother, Ada, and her brothers, Jonathan and Laurence. Andi is survived by her mother, Ada L. Vernick, her brother, Jonathan Vernick, his wife Haleh, and daughter, Sasha, and her brother, Laurence Vernick, his wife, Susan, and his daughters, Stephanie and Jennifer. A funeral service will be held Sunday, July 18 at 11:30 am at Menorah Chapels in Union, New Jersey. In lieu of flowers, memorial contributions may be made in memory of Andi Vernick to the Thoracic Research Fund, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, Attention: Dr. Mark Kris, 1275 York Avenue, New York, NY, 10065. 6 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 JEWEL PERSONALITIES There’s plenty of action in jewelry at the moment — from stylish new costume collections to fine Parisian pieces coming Stateside. — Fashion editor: Shoshanna Fischhoff

Eternamé’s 18-karat Eternamé’s yellow gold, 18-karat diamond and yellow gold, turquoise amethyst and earrings. diamond cuff.

ETERNAME making impulse stuck. In her favor: the summer after college spent WHEN ETERNAME MADE ITS DEBUT IN 2007, THE JEWELRY studying at the Gemological Institute of America in New York, albeit firm made headlines for its association with model Audrey reluctantly. “I was interning for Dior in New York,” she recalls. “My Marnay, who moonlighted as its designer. Sarah Besnainou, parents let me go there as long as I was also in school. So I picked the the creative force behind the Paris-based concern, was rarely school that was closest to the [Dior] offices. Finally, it’s helping me now.” mentioned. “The press was more into her because she does Eternamé, which is housed in a boudoir-style studio, consists have a name,” notes Besnainou, 29. Three years later, with of three collections: ready-to-wear offerings ($900 to $5,000 at business growing and entry into the U.S. market planned for retail), couture ($2,700 to $29,000) and haute couture ($10,000 fall, Besnainou is making her presence known. to $200,000). What connects them is Besnainou’s eye for the While Marnay is still a close friend who occasionally offers ultraglamorous yet modern, whether amethyst cuffs or turquoise her design two cents, Eternamé was actually Besnainou’s earrings embedded with tiny diamonds. idea. The collection began, in fact, with a pair of sapphire And she’s not opposed to soliciting advice from others, either. and gold cuff links, engraved with the word eternamé, which During couture week, for instance, she presented her collection via she created for a former fiancé after a memorable night sketches and asked editors for their suggestions and feedback. at a charity dinner. “The word means ‘make me eternal’ “I wanted to excite them and have the editors involved in the in Greek,” she explains. “I wanted him to remember [the production and process of creation,” Besnainou says. “And it’s been evening] we spent together.” so helpful for me. It’s like an open brainstorming session.” The relationship didn’t last, but for Besnainou, the jewelry- — Venessa Lau

R U Vain’s silver and copper cuffs.

R U VAIN As the saying goes, behind every successful man, there is a woman. In Reuven Kassai’s case, the woman is his ex-wife, and she’s the reason he got involved with jewelry. “Her father was a diamond broker,” says Kassai. “I went into the business and learned diamond cutting. I was buying, polishing and selling fancy-colored diamonds. Then I got divorced.” Their separation allowed him to chart his own career. Kassai thus started buying, melting and selling antique silver. “But I found that a lot of the pieces had signs of the artist in them,” says Kassai, whose parents own a silver shop in Manhattan, “and it was a pity for me to melt them.” Eventually, Kassai turned his sights back to jewelry, using the scraps of silver he already had collected. The first ring he designed featured silver wire repurposed from an antique dish. “I used the band running around the perimeter of the dish,” he recalls. The ring, he notes, “didn’t come out right. But I thought, Wow, this kind of looks like the letter A. Let me make a B….” He went on to make the rest of the alphabet, creating his first line of silver pendants. R U Vain, a play on his first name, Reuven, now boasts everything from cuff links and dog tags to diamond-encrusted bangles and those letter pendants — all hammered and artfully rough hewn. “I love textures in silver,” the designer says of the organic vibe behind his collection, which retails from $130 to $3,000 and is available at Maxandchloe.com. “When it’s polished and straight, you don’t get to see the true life of the metal,” he says.

— V.L. GEORGE CHINSEE MITRA; ALL OTHERS BY ROBERT PHOTO BY HILTON NICKY WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 7 WWD.COM

Nicky Hilton’s sterling silver, cubic zirconia, enamel and stone rings.

NICKY HILTON LEST ANYONE NEEDED REMINDING, NICKY HILTON IS NOT ONLY THE YOUNGER, LESS CONTROVERSIAL Hilton sister, she’s also a fashion designer. Since first entering the design sector with a collection of handbags for the Japanese label Samantha Thavasa at age 17, Hilton, now 26, has launched a clothing line called Chic by Nicky Hilton in 2004 and is on to her next project: a line of Nicky Hilton costume jewelry launching for fall. “I’m a crazy jewelry collector,” says Hilton. “I’ve always known since I was a teenager that I wanted to do a line. Whenever I bought something, whether at a flea market in Paris or a bazaar in India, I’ve been collecting pieces.” Hilton says she’s been approached by “tons and tons of different people,” but it wasn’t until she met Chad C. Haggar, ceo of Titan Brands and Hilton’s partner in the endeavor, that she decided to go ahead with a jewelry collection. “He really shared my vision of high quality without the high price tags,” she says. The line is divided into three collections, Art Deco, inspired by her mother and grandmother’s David Webb pieces, and Spike and Snakes, which range from classic Deco to contemporary edgy, and wholesale from $35 to $480. Endless.com has the exclusive on the line through the end of this year, when Hilton plans to expand to department and specialty stores. — Jessica Iredale

MARISSA ALPERIN AS A CHILD, MARISSA ALPERIN designed jewelry — plastic beaded baubles, friendship bracelets, safety pin bangles — which she sold at the annual Atlantic Lyes’ bead and Antic street fair in her native rhinestone cuff. Brooklyn, N.Y. But the hobby faded, as childhood fascinations do, and Alperin went on to study international business. She then worked as a translator, first in Washington and then back in New York, where she rediscovered her love for jewelry. After studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology, she launched her collection in 2002, setting up shop — literally, both studio and store — in a Cobble Hill building owned by her grandparents. Alperin has quietly built a reputation for colorful, ultrafeminine jewelry, ranging from $80 for silver studs to $10,000 for a platinum, diamond and sapphire bracelet. Now, she’s expanding into LYES wholesale. But she won’t abandon “I NEED A VACATION.” AFTER HEARING NEW YORK the personal touch. To wit: Her women utter this phrase far too often, Lisidolly Estrella- Sweet Pea necklaces stem from Savaglia, a personal stylist and avid traveler, decided to a peapod charm she created for offer her clients an escape, at least fashionwise, with her her son, while her silver and topaz Marissa designs. For spring, she launched Lyes, her collection of cuff links were inspired by a sea Alperin’s 18- bracelets inspired by her travels to sunny locales such as urchin she found while on vacation karat gold and Bali, Saint-Tropez and Sicily. The python bracelets are boldly in Mexico. As for the candy- precious stone embellished with compilations of flora and fauna, including colored rings with extra gemstones necklaces. starfish and gem-encrusted butterflies. “I design for the embedded in the prongs: woman who is not afraid to show off,” says Estrella-Savaglia, “That’s [the setting of] my own who uses onyx, coral, precious stones and trinkets to decorate engagement ring that I designed,” her one-of-a-kind pieces. Each item in the collection, Alperin notes. “I told my husband called The Trips, is inspired by and named for a different to just give me the diamond.” destination. The reds used in the Santo Domingo bracelet — V.L. are meant to represent the color of the city’s wet earth, while the black beads on the Sicily bracelet are intended to mimic volcanic ash from Mount Etna. The bracelets retail for $550 and are sold exclusively on charmandchain.com. Clutches and caftans are also in the works. — Christina Roperti 8 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 WWD.COM

George Clooney is the center of attention outside the courthouse in Milan. PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY Courtroom Italiano: Clooney Takes the Stand By Luisa Zargani documents that purported to carry his signature had been altered or Photoshopped. He denied knowing any of the defendants. MILAN — “Scusa, scusa.…Don’t crush my lawyers,” implored George Clooney as he “It’s the first time I’ve ever seen him,” Clooney said of Cannalire, adding sarcasti- pressed his way toward an Italian courtroom. cally, “so I’d like to say, ‘Hello, nice to meet you.’” Murmurs of “che bello” (how handsome) spread throughout the crowd of spectators. Looking at the images, the actor mentioned there were some real photos, such as It was quite a star turn. one with actress Joan Collins, mixed with many altered ones found on the Internet Clooney, tanned and charming, brought a bit of Hollywood to a small, packed court- from the premiere of the 2005 film “Syriana,” for which Clooney won an Oscar for best room here on Friday, seeking justice from those who would use his name for a fashion supporting actor. brand without his consent. Examining a photo, he said, “Here, for instance, I don’t smoke and I don’t wear Testifying in the trial of three defendants accused of fraudulently using him to that watch. I also don’t wear long jean shorts.” launch a signature women’s and men’s clothing line, Clooney was every inch the lead- Clooney said his signature was either forged or “photocopied several times over.” ing man. Even the judge seemed a bit awestruck. He noted that his “signature is very easy to get, as you can imagine, off the Internet…. “It’s lasted the time of a movie,” proclaimed Judge Pietro Caccialanza, thanking You would think if you were going to forge my signature, you would borrow several Clooney after more than 90 minutes of testimony. different versions of it.” The Oscar-winning actor has owned a villa As for Goffi, whose claims of a relationship at nearby Lake Como for about nine years with the actor made headlines a few years but usually manages to keep a pretty low pro- ago, Clooney said he had read stories about file. So when word of his court appearance her and she had moved to his hometown in spread, there was a throng waiting — unde- It’s the first time I’ve ever seen him Italy but reiterated that he had never met or terred by 91 degree heat. “ spoken with her. In the courtroom, the judge admonished [defendant Vincenzo Cannalire]…so I’d like to Goffi also has been accused of selling spectators to quiet down and banished sever- counterfeit Rolex watches using Clooney’s al women for taking pictures of Clooney, who say, ‘Hello, nice to meet you.’ name. The actor, who is a spokesman for was dapper in a navy blue suit, white shirt ” — George Clooney Omega, said Rolex sent him a letter in 2006 and red-spotted blue tie, and who apologized telling him to stop selling its watches. for his limited Italian. For the most part, the The prosecutor also produced what star seemed to float above all the ruckus. she said was a forged “permanent residence card” with a photo of the actor. “It’s Clooney, who has attended Giorgio Armani shows in Milan and often dons the de- funny because this photo of mine was taken by a very famous photographer: Annie signer’s looks, denied under questioning by prosecutor Letizia Mannella and defense Leibovitz,” said Clooney, who then stumbled when asked to spell the photographer’s lawyers that he had signed an agreement with the firm GC Exclusive to produce the surname. “I never had such a card, and I don’t think it’s allowed in the U.S.” fashion apparel brand under his moniker. Appearing frustrated, defense attorneys were thwarted by the judge and elicited Although there are three defendants — Vincenzo Cannalire, Francesco Galdelli laughter when they tried to question Clooney about whether he met many Italian and Vanja Goffi — only Cannalire, managing director of GC Exclusive, managed to women — apparently trying to get him to somehow refer to Goffi — and about who make it to the courtroom. He might have been better off staying home. took care of his three Harley-Davidson motorcycles. “I came here because I believe in the judicial system and because there were peo- Clooney left the courtroom flanked by several Carabinieri policemen, followed by ple using my name to take advantage of people,” Clooney told the court with more onlookers and a scrum of scuffling journalists, photographers and TV crews, and ex- than a little righteous indignation. ited through a side door, where a car was waiting for him. Asked about her famous The actor testified that photos supposedly showing him with Cannalire or Goffi and client, lawyer Grazia Maria Mantelli sounded smitten. “He is supernice,” she said. WWDAccessories Section II July 2010

Accessories are going on an adventure with antique finishes and vintage shapes that have a well-traveled look. Here, from top, Reinhard Plank’s straw hat; Tumi’s calf hair duffel; lambskin and cotton twill bag from Olivia Harris by Joy Gryson; Sama Eyewear’s 18-karat gold and diamond sunglasses with 24-karat gold lenses (right); David Yurman’s 18-karat gold and diamond aviators, and Ghurka’s leather, cotton and polyester trunk. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET DESIGN BY AMY LOMACCHIO AND TYLER RESTY; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF STYLED BY AND TYLER RESTY; AMY LOMACCHIO THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET DESIGN BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010

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ANNA E ALEX’S ARTISANAL APPROACH THEY MAY HAVE SPENT THEIR FORMATIVE in the mix years, professionally speaking, at one of the world’s most famous jewelers, but when Alessandra Sales and Anna Neri decided to set up their own business, Anna e Alex, they looked far beyond precious gems. Sales, a former external relations director ALL IN THE DETAILS at Bulgari, and Neri, a former international marketing coordinator at the luxury jeweler, AS AN ARCHITECT, LOS ANGELES NATIVE chose instead to focus on traditional Elena Coleman was always focused on the tiniest artisanal techniques such as passementerie details, a trait that would serve her well in her and materials like vintage crystal drops, second career as a jewelry designer. semiprecious stones and Murano glass beads. “I’m obsessed with geometry and angles and I love “To us, luxury is about having an authentic making models,” Coleman said. piece made by artisans,” Sales said. After working for architecture firm Marmol Radziner in Much of the Anna e Alex collection is Los Angeles, Coleman moved to New York, where she worked based on passementerie, the art of making at Roman and Williams. During her spare time, she began ornamental trimmings from braid and cord. making necklaces from vintage chains, which landed in the Over the centuries, passementerie was online newsletter Daily Candy. traditionally used for home furnishings — “All of a sudden, stores were calling to place orders,” said Coleman. such as chandeliers, lamps or sofas — and “Eventually, I knew I had to choose.” is still used to make the gold braiding for Coleman took jewelry-making classes to supplement the soldering, military uniforms and embellishments for water-jet and laser-jet cutting skills she acquired in architecture couture clothing. school and moved back to Los Angeles last year, where she Sales and Neri rely on small workshops launched her first TomTom collection for spring. The fall line has near their Rome design studio to do the evolved from a feminine layered look into bold yet light metal passementerie work, which they later pieces inspired by Pre-Colombian and Mayan warrior armor, body embellish with gold, silver or beading. paint and pyramids. The geometric pieces come in gunmetal, Their color palette is bright and varied, brass, oxidized silver or 18-karat gold-plated silver finishes, some using some 300 shades, including 25 accented with wood and dark crystals. The collar necklaces are different reds, and will personalize designs pieced together individually to allow each part to lie comfortably for customers. on the body and have a sense of movement. Anna e The jewelry sells on the company’s Web “They are statement pieces, but they are also very easy to Alex’s site, annaealex.com, and through about wear,” Coleman added. Ventaglio 70 retailers in Europe, including Luisa Retail prices range from $90 to $350. TomTom is earring. via Roma in Florence, Spazio Del Cima available at Ten Over Six, Milk and Vieve in Los Angeles; in Milan and Eleven Monte Carlo Eva, Old Hollywood and Hayden-Harnett in New in Monaco. This summer, York, and Selfridges in London. they began testing Anna — Marcy Medina e Alex in the U.S. at Carleen Ligozio in Southampton, N.Y., and Laureen Gabrielson in Sag Harbor, N.Y. Prices range from 180 euros, or $225 at current exchange, for a pair of earrings, to 600 euros, or $750, for a A necklace customized necklace. and ring from Sales and Neri, who TomTom. founded the company in 2006, recently opened a showroom in Milan on Via del Gesù and are looking to expand internationally over the next few years. — Samantha Conti

CHAIN REACTION DESIGNER FANNIE SCHIAVONI, KNOWN FOR HER LINE OF TOUGH BODY JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES, might have been based in London for the past five years, but she still draws inspiration from her hometown, the Swedish island of Gotland. The techniques she’s used to work up her collection of chain-mail gloves, capes made from metal feathers and cagelike body adornments are modeled on the methods used by a museum in Gotland that re-creates the armor medieval soldiers wore when the island was invaded by Denmark in the 14th century. While she may be looking to the past for inspiration, her fans are decidedly modern. Lady Gaga was shot for the British music magazine Q this year wearing piles of Schiavoni’s chain-mail necklaces and body harnesses, and the designer has also made pieces for Rihanna, including the chain-mail leggings and harness the singer wears in her “Rockstar 101” music video. “It’s really interesting when you see how [artists] wear the pieces,” said Schiavoni, who studied fashion design technology at the London College of Fashion. “When [the collection] is onstage, it comes to life. The chains have a great gravity to them and they drape really well.” Alongside accessorizing pop divas, Schiavoni is also working on her own spring collection, which she plans to show during London Fashion Week in September, after receiving sponsorship from the British Fashion Council’s New Generation support project. “I’m experimenting with electrolyzing — when you color aluminum using electricity,” said Schiavoni, who noted that her studio resembles a workshop more than an artsy designer’s space. “I don’t have a jewelry education, so it’s always an experiment.” Schiavoni has also added a line of men’s necklaces and gloves for fall. — Nina Jones

Fannie Schiavoni’s chain necklace. LONGCHAMP USA- 435AUSHIGHWAY 130NORTH - YARDVILLE, NJ08620 LONGCHAMP READY TO WEAR & ACCESSORIES LONGCHAMP.COM TEL: 609.581.5555 4 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010

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WWDACCESSORIES Assad Mounser’s Cleopatra bangles. in the mix

BULLETS, SPIKES & THINGS NOT NICE A TRAVELER WAS STOPPED UNDER THE SUSPICION OF transporting “replica bullets” across state lines upon going through airport security recently. Scores of TSA officers, the performance of a residue test and 10 minutes of explaining later, she was free to go. The ammo in question: Assad Mounser’s Space Oddity necklace. Designed by Amanda Assad, the necklace is riddled with multilayered chains, studs, bullets and agate slices. “Everything that I’ve been doing has this rock ’n’ roll edge,” said Assad. “That’s why you see the bullets and spikes come into play, which also fall into the military trend, but for this season, I made it about the women behind the glam-rock gods.” These include the Veruschka Collar, a $195 silver chain necklace with stainless steel bullets and black arrowheads with military colored pearls, and the Hall Cuff, a $119 silver-plated bracelet with rounded hammered spikes, gunmetal pearls and white leather gems. Dana Lorenz of Fenton and Fallon has a well-documented affinity for spikes, too. “I’ve used spikes every season, but this time we actually soldered them onto the pieces and the ends of chains so they were more rigid and stand on end,” said Lorenz. “Spikes are a really pure shape in terms of geometry and we use a lot of pyramids, too — the square-but-triangular shape. It’s an easy way to give something a bit more structure and a more geometric feeling, but also be punk and very street at the same time.” The Vanishing Micro Spike Ring wholesales for $55 and the Crystallized- Swarovski Elements and brass Vieuphoria Bib is $145. “I’m very peaceful,” said Gia Bahm, founder and designer of Unearthen, whose four-year-old brand is centered around necklaces created from rock crystals such as amethyst, topaz, green tourmaline and spider quartz paired with vintage-looking bullet casings. Bahm said it was a visit to a crystal store in New Hope, Pa., that peaked Dannijo’s her interest in raw crystals. “I think it’s a destructive thing, a bullet, and it’s Hendricks violent, and being able to make it into something that’s not by taking a raw necklaces. crystal to it is changing it into something that’s beautiful and peaceful,” she said. Necklaces start at about $155, and a small gold quartz necklace, created from a 22-caliber bullet casing, a 14-karat gold chain and a piece of quartz soldered to it, wholesales for $175. For Dannijo’s Danielle and Jodie Snyder, the collections they conceptualize and design draw on their own personalities. “Jodie is classic and sophisticated and I’m a little more rock ’n’ roll and bohemian,” said Danielle. “The rocker edginess comes through in my aesthetic. Our pieces aren’t weaponry, but they have this slightly bold aggressive feel.” For fall, the duo’s pieces have an urban-warrior vibe, such as gunmetals, oxidized silvers, little spikes on bracelets and stackable cuffs with entangled mini chains. Prices range from $38 for a ring to $385 for an elaborate necklace, but the majority of the collection Unearthen’s hovers around $88 to $258. bullet necklace. — Rachel Strugatz

Fallon’s Vanishing Micro Spike Ring. “Inspiration is a matter of keeping your eyes open, and, more importantly, your mind.” SUSAN LYONS, PRESIDENT & CREATIVE DIRECTOR

10421 SW 187 Terrace, Miami, FL 33157 | 305.233.7566 New York Showroom | 366 Fifth Ave., Showroom 1102, New York,NY 10001 | 800.619.6588

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WWDACCESSORIES

Into the wild accessories go, with animal prints and colorful tribal touches perfect for an exotic island. WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 7 WWD.COM

Clockwise from top left: SUPER’s acetate sunglasses; OAKLEY’s nylon and plastic sunglasses; KATHY VAN ZEELAND’s cotton twill bag; MATT & NAT’s cotton canvas tote; ETIENNE AIGNER’S leather bag; PERSOL EYEWEAR’s acetate sunglasses; JOHNNY FARAH’s yak leather belt; JESSICA SIMPSON’s PVC bag; DEEPA GURNANI’S viscose scarf, and CHAN LUU’s white jade and oxidized sterling silver necklace. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET DESIGN BY AMY LOMACCHIO AND TYLER RESTY; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF STYLED BY AND TYLER RESTY; AMY LOMACCHIO THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET DESIGN BY PHOTO BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010

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back to the heyday of that romance. Inspired by Coco Chanel’s love affair with France’s coast, polka dots, stripes and pearls take accessories

Clockwise from top: ACCESSORY NETWORK’s paper and straw cloche; DIANE VON FURSTENBERG’s zyl sunglasses; DKNY’s nylon and leather bag; FELIX REY’s mesh clutch; GUCCI’s acetate sunglasses; FALIERO SARTI’s Modal scarf; JUDITH LEIBER’s acetate, titanium and Austrian crystal sunglasses, and SONDRA ROBERTS’ plastic pearl and acetate satin clutch. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET DESIGN BY AMY LOMACCHIO AND TYLER RESTY; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF STYLED BY AND TYLER RESTY; AMY LOMACCHIO THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET DESIGN BY PHOTO BY a world of fashion and style 10 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010

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On the Côte d’Azur, candy colors and all manner of gold look just as at home as 50-foot yachts and beautifully tanned skin.

Clockwise from top: DAVID AUBREY’s 18-karat gold-plated metal and glass cuffs; VERA’s silk twill scarf; CHRISTIAN ROTH’s acetate sunglasses; CARLOS FALCHI’s python clutch; 18-karat gold-plated metal, bead and sterling silver earrings from LAVISH BY TRICIA MILANEZE; NANETTE LEPORE’s metal and lambskin clutch, and VERSACE’s plastic sunglasses. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET DESIGN BY AMY LOMACCHIO AND TYLER RESTY; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF STYLED BY AND TYLER RESTY; AMY LOMACCHIO THOMAS IANNACCONE; SET DESIGN BY PHOTO BY

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Ray-Ban gold aviators. A Golden Era for Eyewear By Lauren Benet Stephenson of Elizabeth and James, said the inspiration behind the eyewear was, “To create eyewear for THANKS TO A HEAVY CELEBRITY SHOWING AND THE an aspirational customer and to create something very spe- lure of limited edition luxury, gold-lensed sunglasses are cial for our loyal customer.” shining brightly. Ray-Ban has featured gold-hued lenses in its aviator Angelina Jolie in The trend of 24-karat gold-lensed sunglasses seems to frames, such as the Ultra Gold sunglasses that retail for $290), Badgley Mischka have stemmed largely from a plethora of paparazzi shots since its inception, but “sales of gold-lens sunglasses have in- gold aviators. of Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie and Halle Berry wearing them. creased with the current trend,” said Kristen McCabe, vice Badgley Mischka Perry sunglasses by Sama Eyewear were president of Sun and Luxury Products for parent Luxottica. spotted on Jolie this fall as she traipsed through Italy. Next, The company also produces eyewear for Chanel, which has Rihanna sported the same frames in her “So Hard” video. This it’s own gold-lensed aviators that retail for $485. spring, Sarah Jessica Parker towered over the fashionable pop- Though it may seem paradoxical to embrace a metal ulace in billboards for “Sex and the City 2” wearing Mykita & like gold as it continues to skyrocket in price, McCabe said, Bernhard Willhelm’s Franz limited edition gold aviators. “Because of its cost, gold lenses are usually associated with Lindsay Champine, a manager at Urban Optiques, an up- limited editions,” which increases demand. scale eyewear provider, said the style’s popu- Last week, the precious metal was selling for larity in recent months is directly re- more than $1,200 an ounce compared with lated to this celebrity placement. an average of $928.64 in May 2009 and “Sarah Jessica Parker from $421.87 in May 2005. ‘Sex and the City 2’ wore When asked why she believed them in the opening scenes, gold-frame sunglasses remained so that has a lot to do with popular in a generally staples- it,” Champine said. only economy, Urban Optiques’ Sama Eyewear, which pro- Champine said: “They always say duces its own signature collection that in hard times women are known in conjunction with Badgley to keep the home front pretty and Mischka and Loree Rodkin will spend extra money for lip- Eye Couture sunglasses, stick and perfume. I think the fancies itself the forefather same can be said here of these of gold-lens eyewear. The feel-good items.” brand unveiled a limited edi- The eyewear sector has tion series, Sahara Heart of proven its mettle during the Gold for Sama Eyewear, with prolonged recession. New licens- 24-karat gold lenses with micro- es and collaborations have been plating, which covers the lenses plentiful, and since 2009 a parade with a light, 24-karat coating, of designers and brands have in May 2009. A Sama spokes- extended into the category, in- man explained the impetus cluding Diane von Furstenberg, behind incorporating gold is Stella McCartney, John Galliano, the importance of limited edition Tory Burch, Alexander Wang, luxury styles. Hogan, Tod’s, Josie Natori, Mykita introduced its limited William Rast, Jimmy Choo and edition gold aviators, which retail Dsquared2. for $525, in January of last year dur- Von Furstenberg said of the eye- ing Berlin Fashion Week. Co-owner wear at her launch, “Sunglasses are all Philipp Haffmans said, “Once the From top: Michael Kors aviators in 22-karat gold; about two things — glamour and first images from the set of ‘Sex and Chanel gold frames from the Denim Collection; protection — it’s more than an ac- the City 2’ were released…we start- Elizabeth and James limited edition Fairfax sunglasses. cessory, it’s a necessity.” ed getting inundated with e-mails Some celebrities delved into and calls and immediately had a long waiting list for the the action as well, like Mary J. Blige (who launched her own product…sales have been fantastic since then.” Sama eye- eyewear line); Madonna, who collaborated with Dolce & wear retails from $550 to $1,100; with the exception of the Gabbana; Rachel Bilson for Sunglass Hut, and Róisín Murphy Sahara Heart of Gold collection, which is priced at $1,500, with Linda Farrow Vintage. Sarah Jessica Parker on the set of of which all proceeds go to the Betty Ford Center. Eyewear has proven profitable for the publicly traded “Sex and the City 2,” wearing Mykita David Yurman launched its 24-karat Waverly gold avia- firms, as well. Marcolin SpA reported profits up 44.3 per- & Bernhard Willhelm’s Franz limited tor frames at Vision Expo East in March, retailing for $375 cent in the first quarter to 6 million euros, or $8.2 edition gold aviators. in select David Yurman boutiques. Michael Kors will in- million, in the first quarter ended March 31. At the JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE BY SPLASH NEWS; PARKER JOLIE PHOTO BY troduce a limited edition of the Michael Kors aviator in same time, Luxottica reported a 20.8 percent rise in 22-karat gold in November, selling for $395 nationwide in net profits in the first quarter to 95.1 million euros, Michael Kors boutiques. or $131.2 million, compared with the same period Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s apparel line, Elizabeth last year, with sales rising 6 percent to 1.39 billion and James, launched its first eyewear collection last month euros, or $1.92 billion. During the same period, Safilo, and introduced a limited edition line that featured 24-karat which produces eyewear for such brands as Dior, gold lenses and retails for $425 at select doors. Jill Collage, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, reported net profits fell David Yurman president of Dualstar Entertainment, the parent company 0.3 percent to 1.7 million euros, or $2.3 million. gold aviators.

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WWDACCESSORIES Men’s Bags: Function Meets Fashion

Dries Van Noten By Emilie Marsh PARIS — Enter the all-terrain man-bag. For spring, designer labels are beefi ng up men’s pocketbooks and offering rugged backpacks and other outerwear-inspired satchels. European brands including Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Marni, Dunhill, Gucci, Gaspard Yurkievich and Emporio Armani all sent sportswear-inspired bags down the runway, with a focus on action-packed accessorizing. “What I like about the backpack is the idea of movement in the way it’s carried, something that is not too precious. It’s transferable from the back to the shoulder or held in your hand like a shopping bag,” said Lanvin men’s wear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, who sports a nylon knapsack he Lanvin picked up at a fl ea market in Japan. Ossendrijver brought backpacks back for fall and for spring parlayed his penchant for utilitarian accessories into a range of multipurpose fanny packs made from recycled nylon and equipped with zippers and straps. “There’s something more masculine about it, which allows us to use precious leathers or jacquard prints, but because of Marni its shape it doesn’t look delicate and is still unique,” he said. “I wanted to experiment with the rucksack,” added Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni. “[Traditionally] known as a functional outerwear accessory, [it] is transformed into a more formal piece and used in an urban context.” To that end, Marni showed a range of leather and canvas bags for spring. Since, according to retailers, men’s accessories represent a growth opportunity, it’s little surprise buy- ers are tapping the tried-and-tested bag category. “It’s always been part of the man’s wardrobe, not just because of the practical element, but there’s something iconic and very masculine, which can be traced back to his Boy Scout days,” said Stephen Ayres, buying manager for men’s wear at Liberty. “It’s a key trend, although it is a diffi cult item to convert at retail due to high price points for the category. It still is not seen as a luxury item,” added Richard Johnson, men’s wear buying manager for Harvey Nichols.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY To that end, designers made sure their backpacks looked more dapper than day-tripper. A model in a crisp business shirt at Dries Van Noten carried a Tyrolean-like backpack at his side. “We loved the idea that a backpack could not only be purely functional and sturdy, yet equally luxuriously fragile,” Van Noten said. “What seems rough and ready to others has the intimacy of butter-soft calfskin, a quality only tangible to and witnessed by the owner.” WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 15 WWD.COM Estime’s ‘Gentleman Tech’ Smythson’s Paper Trail PARIS — It’s all in the bag for budding media and fashion group HOLLY FULTON HAS BECOME THE LATEST MenInvest and its high-end accessories label for guys, Estime. London fashion designer to create a limited edi- “We really saw a niche for elegant men’s accessories, but priced more tion series of illustrated books, 2011 diaries and affordably than most luxury brands,” said Audrey Montacel, a Louis stationery for the British brand Smythson. Vuitton alum, who co-founded Estime in 2009 with business partner and Fulton, a former designer for Lanvin who now MenInvest founder Marc Menasé. shows her signature collection in London, follows Prices range from around 69 euros, or $87 at current exchange, for in the pen-and-ink trail of Giles Deacon, Erdem a laptop case to 579 euros, or $728, for a garment bag. MenInvest op- and Matthew Williamson, all of whom have created erates fashion, digital, e-commerce and media activities focused on limited edition products for the Bond Street statio- men. The group in February received a capital increase from AXA ner and leather goods brand. Private Equity, which took a minority stake, and has an Estime bou- “Drawing is one of my guilty pleasures and I’ll tique at 61 Rue Bonaparte in take any excuse to spend longer doing it,” said the heart of Saint-Germain. Fulton, whose collection will land in Smythson The Estime boutique in Paris. Meanwhile, its multibrand stores at the end of October. “I am heavily influ- shop, Menlook, and its be- ence by materials, so was delighted to have the spoke shirt and suit label, chance to work in a different medium.” Saint-Sens, are located just The collection features Fulton’s signature Art next door at number 59. Deco-inspired illustrations engraved on colored A second Estime loca- leather and paper. The collection comes in the de- tion is slated to bow in Lyon, signer’s favorite color combinations of black with Holly Futon’s France, in September, while yellow and pale aqua. All books and diaries are creations for plans for international ex- lined in white silk with a black geometric print Smythson. pansion are also under way. from Fulton’s fall collection. Billing its style as “gentleman The collaborations are the tech,” the collection, which is brainchild of Samantha Cameron, entirely made in Spain from Britain’s new first lady and exclusive European textiles Smythson’s creative adviser, who is and leathers, ranges from a strong supporter of young British exotic iPhone holders and talent. leather envelope pouches to “We were keen to work with supple travel bags. A 48-hour Holly, as we felt her original, very duffel bag, for example, offers colored bands and vivid contrast or strong graphic designs would work Liberty-print linings. well with the simplicity of our “We studied every aspect of men’s accessories, from how many cards books, diaries and stationery,” said a wallet should ideally carry to the most ergonomic accessory forms,” Cameron. “Our collaboration with Montacel said. Holly marks the continuation of Starting next month, Estime, which is already available online at Smythson’s exciting work with young estime.com, will be sold in London’s Fenwick department store. British design talent.” — E.M. — Samantha Conti

WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 9 WWD.COM MEMO PAD Taubman at 60: Looking Ahead WHAT COURTNEY WORE TODAY: Courtney Love’s social media profile is rising. The singer and rapid-fire tweeter delved into By David Moin per square foot from $539 in 2008, though it’s still the world of fashion blogging last week with the launch of the industry leader. “Sometime between 2011 and Whatcourtneyworetoday.com. The site, comprising photographs THE MALL INDUSTRY IS FILLED WITH OVER- 2012 we are going to be back over $500,” Robert replete with captions and a stream of snarky commentary, expansion, overleveraging, vacancy concerns and Taubman said. “Through the first quarter, we were chronicles Love’s outfits and wardrobe changes on a daily basis. paltry productivity. Call it counterintuitive, but that running at a 12-month trailing pace of $509. We have Lest one think this is just another personal style blog, they hasn’t phased the Taubmans. been fortunate to come through this whole [reces- should think again. “It’s a social experiment,” Love told WWD, The Bloomfield Hills, Mich.-based family-run sion] period. We didn’t have to issue equity. Pound explaining that the blog is a four-person operation. Opting to shopping-center business has grown through de- for pound, we still have the strongest balance sheet preserve the anonymity of her co-bloggers, velopment more than acquisition, and by operating in the sector today.” Love refers to her cohorts as T, L and X, traditional malls and selectively merchandising the Taubman was one of only a handful of U.S. REITs adding that the identity of this fourth space rather than just filling it with tenants willing that did not sell assets, cut dividends or raise equity person (whose portions are the italicized to pay the most rent. last year. ones) is even a secret to her, although she Despite the company’s recessionary dip in pro- As far as expansion, the company is seeking a does know that it’s a he, not a she. ductivity and challenges getting construction going new president for Taubman Asia after the departure “T is this girl from my management, on proposed projects, the Taubmans have a positive of Morgan Parker last year. There’s a staff of 20 in a third- or fourth-row junior Tavi, who outlook on luxury and consumers and contend the South Korea and Hong Kong, though no set develop- somehow likes rock ’n’ roll, too, and draw of a mall, even in the age of the Internet, is ment plans. In the U.S., Taubman’s sole project under ended up coming on the road with me still strong. Their mood is buoyed by the company’s construction is City Creek Center in Salt Lake City, until a few days ago, and L works at a 60th anniversary, a milestone being marked today where Macy’s and Nordstrom plan to open in March fashion magazine. They are these little when they ring the closing bell on the New York 2012. Taubman has six other developments that have fashionistas,” she said. Stock Exchange. been put on hold — largely because of capital con- The very first post was a photo of the “We see people buying luxury goods,” Robert straints and retailers reluctant to open new doors in rocker performing in a Rick Owens T and Taubman, chairman, president and chief executive the tough business climate. It might not be until mid- leggings paired with a Roberto Cavalli officer, said during a joint interview with his brother 2011 before the next project sees construction. romper. On Friday, samplings ranged from William, chief operating officer, and their father A. The elder Taubman is credited with pioneering a dramatic black-and-white photograph of Alfred Taubman, who founded the business. “We see regional, multilevel centers with food courts, movie Love in a black wool fall 2010 Givenchy people with pent-up demand. We have really seen theaters and split-level parking, as well as convinc- dress to a postshow snapshot of her in fundamental growth for the first time in a number ing retailers to build big branch stores to serve as a plunging, low-back Alexander Wang of years in our fashion anchors and convincing sweater (black bra exposed, of course) category apparel.” William, Alfred and Robert Taubman. luxury brands to enter and denim shorts on a bus ride to Asked to envision the malls when previously Minneapolis. future, Alfred Taubman they only considered “The rules of this are, I send pictures said, “I’m 86 years old. high streets. He some- of what I wore that day, and they also I can’t give you six years times gets involved in Courtney Love have access to my files on my computer. let alone 60 in terms of the planning and re- A blog is full time, and my only condition telling you what’s going mains active as a phi- is that I have to send them at least one to happen. I will make lanthropist, support- picture a day,” said Love, who felt comfortable handing over her this comment though: ing stem-cell research computer to the trio, where she uploaded photos from her iPhone I believe our busi- at the University of for them to use as additional fodder for the blog. ness is very strong, but Michigan and educa- “They are doing their thing, and I haven’t been offended Taubman will be dif- tion, including The A. once in the past two days. I trust them not to screw me. T ferent. There may be Alfred Taubman Center isn’t allowed to put up anything that would piss anyone off, a third generation of for Design Education at and there’s nothing to do with anyone’s personal life. It’s just Taubmans, or a fourth the College for Creative random things, and it’s based on what I wore that day,” Love generation. Maybe it will Studies in Detroit. He’s said. “The only thing I can think of is that it will make me do be shareholder-dominat- writing a second book, my hair more.” ed rather than the fami- but would not divulge What readers should expect: an abundance of Rick Owens, ly. But this company will details. In his first book, as Love is a fanatic, and lots of Givenchy, her second-most- continue to operate for “Threshold Resistance: worn label. the next 60 years.” The Extraordinary “I’ve been wearing these little tuxedo jackets from Givenchy Apparel is a “pretty Career of a Luxury on tour, and I have these sandals Riccardo [Tisci] gave me that stable” performer in Retailing Pioneer,” are f-----g amazing. I wore them to bed.” — Rachel Strugatz the malls,” William Taubman maintained Taubman said. It’s still his innocence despite DEAL OR NO DEAL: It’s been nearly two weeks since rumors of a the core of the regional being convicted in a joint publishing deal between Hearst and Hachette Filipacchi mall, he said, adding price-fixing scandal at Media U.S. parent Lagardère resurfaced. While many media insiders, including Hearst and Hachette staffers, believe the ink to be dry, there’s been no official word from either side. Some We see people buying luxury goods. We see people with pent-up are now speculating that all will be revealed once corporate bigwigs here and in France (especially) return from their summer demand.“ We have really seen fundamental growth for the first time vacations. As for the specifics of the possible agreement, several sources said the deal would be global in scope and involve Hearst in a number of years in our fashion category apparel. acquiring an almost 50 percent stake in Lagardère’s magazine business, which includes Hachette Filipacchi Media U.S., the — Robert Taubman,” Taubman Centers Stateside publisher of Elle and Elle Decor. And, in an interesting twist, highly placed sources at both Hearst and Hachette claimed that luxury concepts are starting to expand again, Sotheby’s, which he owned. their top brass were still in the including Prada, which will open in Taubman’s The elder Taubman’s parents suffered through dark about any such deal or Beverly Center in Los Angeles in November, the the Depression, and he started working at age nine impending announcement. Which brand’s third mall store in the U.S. as a stock boy in a department store, determined means there will be many a jaw “There’s clearly been some downward pressure to make money. He studied architecture, saw the on the floor — if things pan out. on rents,” he said. “As sales recover, rents will recov- growth of the nation’s highway system and popula- Spokespeople for Hearst and er as well, though there’s always some lag. There are tion migration to the suburbs as the key to driving Hachette are still keeping mum. currently more vacancies, but not materially. There mall development, and created upscale develop- — Nick Axelrod and Amy Wicks is no permanent disruption to the fundamentals. ments such as the Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey, Women’s retailing represents north of 30 percent of Cherry Creek in Denver, International Plaza in IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS: Details the Taubman portfolio. Fashion, including women’s, Tampa and Beverly Center. He’s known for meticu- and K Swiss threw a poolside men’s and kids, is about 50 percent. Is the percent- lous planning — from wooing tenants to designing bash Thursday night at the Avalon age shifting? Not materially. You see a little more details such as brass railings and terrazzo floors. Hotel in Beverly Hills to tout the electronics in the mall because of the growth of “I’ve dealt with the Taubmans for 20-plus years sneaker brand’s Vintage California Apple and Microsoft rolling out. You have more food and I think they’re withstanding this recession bet- collection and ad campaign in the malls. On the other hand, books, records and ter than most,” said Richard O’Connell, executive featuring actors Ashton Holmes, toys have fallen. Home has also fallen, but not a lot.” vice president of legal and real estate at Talbots. Douglas Smith, Christopher Egan Ninety-two percent of Taubman’s space was “They’re not too highly leveraged, and not in a po- and Ryan Devlin. Guests included leased in 2009, flat compared with 2008, while rent sition where they need to frantically adjust their “Hannah Montana” star Mitchel per square foot was $43.31, down 1 percent from 2008. leasing. But they are tough and not always easy to Ryan Devlin and Douglas Smith Musso, Ashley Bell, Gillian Jacobs, “This has been a very deep recession — a long deal with. They know they have leverage with some Talulah Riley, Kelsey Chow and drought for everyone,” Robert Taubman added. “It’s of their better properties, and they maximize that.” the band Purple Melon, whose a long cycle, but we don’t see secular change. Now “They are sometimes uncompromising but con- members kicked off their shoes and dipped their feet in the we are in a recovery mode. You are seeing signifi- tinuously striving for the very best,” said Steve pool. “Cougar Town” star Devlin must have liked how things cant growth in sales and much more of a V-shaped Greenberg, president of the Greenberg Group, re- turned out: He bought the entire stack of Details at his local recovery for our assets,” compared to the tentative tail-real-estate consultants. “They seem to micro- supermarket. “Big Love” star Smith insisted he wasn’t just a national economic recovery. “You are going to see manage their properties, which tend to be more spokesmodel for the brand by pulling up his pants to reveal well- strong growth in our properties relative to the rest elaborate and polished than most. They will let a worn shoes. “I wear them every day. No joke! I was all about the of the industry.” space stay vacant until they get the right tenant. It Converse, but if I was at a concert, my feet really started killing Last year, the company, which owns, manages or may be a public company, but it’s still very much me. I wore these all three days of Coachella.” — Safiya Ashraf leases 26 shopping centers, dipped to $498 in sales family run.” 10 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 WWD.COM Renting Fashion, Gaining Traction By David Moin responds to a $500 item. The company promises same-day delivery in New York City and next-day delivery for the rest of the country. Women can hang on to the garment RENT THE RUNWAY IS STOCKING UP, STAFFING UP AND HAS RELOCATED TO for four or eight days. They receive the same style in two sizes to raise the chance of a 9,000-square-foot headquarters in New York’s TriBeCa. a proper fi t. The second garment is free. The goods are delivered with a pre-stamped The Web site for renting designer dresses and accessories, launched last package that can be dropped in a mailbox for return. Women can also rent a second November, recently raised $10 million from Highland Capital and $5 million from style for $25 on the same order and it doesn’t have to be from the same designer. Bain Capital on top of Bain’s $1.7 million in seed money, indicating rapid progress One of the big questions initially was whether women would take care of the dresses so past the start-up phase and increasing infrastructure requirements to support growth. others could rent them. “We ran several tests and discovered that when people get access “It’s a dream come true,” said Jennifer Hyman, chief executive offi cer and co- to something that is aspirational to them, they tend to treat it better,” Hyman said. “Out founder of Rent the Runway, during an interview where she and co-found- of over 15,000 dresses that we have rented out, er-president Jennifer Fleiss talked excitedly about the business and its literally only one has come back in a state where new headquarters, 163 Varick St., a former print shop. It serves as Rent the we couldn’t use it again. So with the rest of the Runway’s administrative offi ces and distribution facility where merchan- dresses there might be a slight stain that we are dise is stored, picked, packed and shipped to customers in garment bags. able to get out or a slight rip that we are able to Before, the setup was humble — a small offi ce and some shared space in tailor. We use a luxury eco-friendly dry cleaner a dry cleaners where the merchandise was inspected, cleaned, repaired, [Slate], and we have a garment preservationist stored and then shipped out when ordered. [Jaclyn Lerner] who has a master’s degree in Although clothing rental operations have had mixed success and get greeted textile preservation, so when the garment comes by the industry with skepticism, Hyman and Fleiss emphasized that designers back it’s given a full quality inspection to fi gure and consumers believe in their business model. They said that since the launch, out how to present this in a brand-new fashion.” Rent the Runway has attained 500,000 members, adds 20,000 new members per “We present an item very carefully in our week on average with little marketing and features products from 100 design- signature garment bag with specialty packag- ers. The site will double the number of items offered for fall by boosting the ing,” Fleiss added. “A woman feels that they buy from labels such as Proenza Schouler, Matthew Williamson, Janis Savitt, want to take care of it. If you are renting a Subversive and Kenneth Jay Lane, and by adding Calvin Klein, Nina Ricci, Ferrari, you are going to take care of it.” “There was a lot of fear when we were ini- tially approaching designers about retail can- nibalization, that the bread and butter for all We go in just like any other buyers and we these designers was selling to department and “ specialty stores,” Hyman acknowledged. “But pick a portfolio from that designer. we were committed to building a business that — Jennifer Fleiss, ”Rent the Runway introduces the next generation of women to de- signer brands. It’s a huge customer-acquisition Missoni, Moschino, Alberta Ferretti, Judith play and marketing play for our brands, and Leiber and Preen. So far almost 18,000 I think the data kind of speaks louder than dresses have been rented. The company words. Ninety-eight percent of women who isn’t expecting profi ts for a while, but Hyman use Rent the Runway rent a brand they never and Fleiss, both former Harvard Business owned before, and 90 percent report purchas- School students owning the majority stake in ing something from the brand they rented from. the business, estimate $6 million in 2010 rev- Rent the Runway is a true gateway to retail.” enues and over $20 million in sales in 2011. Hyman also said her company seeks to devel- They also believe that in an age of aus- Jennifer Hyman and Jennifer Fleiss op “partnerships” with brands in different ways. terity, women are more inclined to rent a believe their business for renting “We will launch marketing communications that dress than in the past, particularly if it’s designer dresses ultimately gets drive traffi c to their e-commerce sites. We will for a special occasion and might never be women to buy the labels. work with brands when they are launching their worn again. “We have seen extraordinary Left: The Rent the Runway homepage. ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY own retail stores. We are not trying to replace loyalty from our members. Once a woman shopping. We actually founded this business be- rents, she tends to come back for many cause we are two women who love shopping. We are trying to enable women to have access special occasions in her life,” Hyman said. to brands they never thought they would have before. If I’m a girl who has contemporary “We only buy current season collec- clothing, I will use Rent the Runway to rent a designer dress and wear it for the fi rst time.” tions from our designers,” said Fleiss. The co-founders say other apparel-rental businesses are different. “We only work “We go in just like any other buyers and directly with designers and never put something on our site unless the designer has we pick a portfolio from that designer. Our fully given us only the buy, their permission, their blessing,” said Fleiss. buy differs from the department stores be- Another point of distinction: “We only put current-season merchandise on the site, cause we focus on the more editorial, em- because we are trying to educate women about the brand and show the real represen- bellished, fashion-forward, colorful styles. We don’t pick the little black dress. Almost tation of that brand,” Hyman said. “Yes, there have been dozens of copycat businesses every dress on our site has something unique and special about it.” since we launched, but none of them are buying directly from designers and none of The team has grown to 30 full-time and 10 part-time employees, and includes tech- them have a large selection. We will buy 150 to 200 units in our top styles. We have nology and marketing executives, stylists and a customer-insight group. In the past about 10,000 units in inventory now, between dresses and accessories. Coming in be- two months, a chief technology offi cer from eBay and vice presidents of analytics and tween July and September are an additional 8,000 units of dresses and another 2,500 operations from Amazon and Oracle came on board. There are also four buyers and units of accessories. We are doubling the inventory we have to 20,000 units. four assistant buyers for dresses, accessories, jewelry, bridesmaids, as well as the col- “Because our system works like a hotel reservation calendar,” she said, “women are lege market, which alone represents 20 percent of the users. booking up to six months in advance. Once the date is selected, the site indicates which Belts and scarves are expected to be added to the offering, and shoes and mater- dresses in what sizes are available for that date. nitywear are being considered. The opening price to rent a dress is $50, which cor- “We are trying to train women on new-customer behavior.” OBITUARY He loved his job and there was no other merchant like him in men’s.” Kevin Kevin Morrissey, Macy’s Men’s Wear Chief, 58 Men’s veteran Paul Rosengard, cur- Morrissey By Jean E. Palmieri and to me personally. Our thoughts and rently a consultant with Li & Fung, prayers are with Kevin’s family at this said Morrissey was a strong leader KEVIN MORRISSEY, EXECUTIVE VICE diffi cult time.” and a force to be reckoned with. “He president and general merchandise Jeff Gennette, Macy’s chief merchan- was…a great key-item merchant who manager of men’s wear for Macy’s Inc., dising offi cer, called Morrissey “an out- always delivered results. And he was died Saturday morning, apparently of a standing merchant — a legend in the a devoted family man who displayed heart attack, at his Westchester home. men’s wear industry. He keenly under- Herculean efforts to be there in sup- He was 58. stood the customer and was exceptional port of both his children’s academic Morrissey, who had been with Macy’s at sizing and maximizing business oppor- and athletic activities. He will be deep- and its predecessor company, Federated tunities. In doing so, Kevin built a repu- ly missed by all.” Department Stores Inc., since 1974, was tation for being an effective partner with After graduating from Syracuse remembered as a gifted men’s merchant our vendors. Moreover, Kevin built and University, Morrissey joined the ex- and a hard-nosed but fair executive. led a very strong men’s wear merchant ecutive training program at Abraham & “In my many years working with team at Macy’s. He was a friend and men- Straus in June 1974 in housewares and Kevin, I observed his expertise in men’s tor who was beloved in our organization home decor and became the store’s as- wear and his skill as an executive,” said and will be greatly missed.” sistant manager of men’s sportswear two Terry Lundgren, chairman, president Karen Murray, president of the VF months later. He then spent virtually his and chief executive offi cer of Macy’s. Sportswear Coalition, said Morrissey entire 36-year career with the company “He was a strong team leader and made was highly respected. in men’s. He became gmm of Macy’s East a signifi cant contribution to building “Whether he supported your line or in 1994 and was named to his most recent the Macy’s brand with the men’s cus- not, he was entrenched like no other post last year. as well as his mother, two brothers and tomer. Kevin’s passing will be a great executive,” she said. “He came to work He is survived by his wife, Susan; a a sister. No information on services was loss to our company, to the industry with passion and drive every single day. son, Patrick, and a daughter, Catherine, available at press time. + PRESENT THE LARGEST SWIM SHOW ON THE WEST COAST.

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A two- story Louis Vuitton unit in Beirut.

For more images, see WWD.com. Retail in Middle East Back on Growth Track Continued from page one that Saudi Arabia’s large royal family is the kingdom’s boutiques in the next 18 months in Riyadh, Saudi biggest consumer of luxury goods. Arabia; Abu Dhabi, and Doha, Qatar, with a shop-in- The drop in local spending power, on some levels, is rel- shop in Riyadh in 2011. ative. “I was talking to a prince recently who said, ‘[During Van Cleef & Arpels, which owns stores in Dubai, a crisis] billionaires become millionaires,’” Penne said. Bahrain and Kuwait, is to open a shop in Kuwait Saudi Arabia, a closed, conservative market, showed this month, followed by units in Doha in October and resilience during the financial crisis, experts said. Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, toward the end of this year or Dubai, which was hardhit by a steep decline in tourism, early next year. on which it depends, is showing the speediest rebound. Last week, Christian Louboutin was in Beirut to mark Monthly traffic at the grandiose Dubai Mall, which the opening of a 1,000-square-foot store and autograph his opened in 2008, has reached as many as five million visi- red-soled styles. The launch of that boutique followed the tors. New mall developments in the region include the March opening of a Louboutin store in Jeddah. Both are just-opened Mirdif City Centre in Dubai and the Dalma in partnership with Chalhoub Group. More openings are Mall in Abu Dhabi, which is to open later this year. Both planned for Dubai and Riyadh before the end of the year. are about 2 million square feet. Also last week, Louis Vuitton opened its first store in In the latest rankings by global commercial real es- Beirut, a two-level, 2,900-square-foot unit at 103 Allenby tate service provider CB Richard Ellis, the United Arab Street near the Beirut Souks. Dior and Chloé launched Emirates came in second after the U.K. in terms of pres- units in Beirut in December. ence of international retailers. A city breakdown showed And Giorgio Armani put his stamp on the Dubai Dubai closing in on London, which topped the list, with skyline in April, opening a 160-room hotel in the Burj 55 percent of 294 international retailers surveyed pres- Khalifa tower, the world’s tallest building. ent in Dubai compared with 56 percent in London. Lebanon’s best-known fashion export, Elie Saab, last A Christian Louboutin boutique Elisabeth Ponsolle des Portes, president of French month opened his first flagship in the Dubai Mall. Saab, opened in Beirut last week. luxury goods association Comité Colbert, which is focus- who counts the Middle East as his biggest market, de- ing its international activities in 2010 on markets such scribed the location as a “luxurious and strategic desti- as Kuwait, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, nation.” He also operates flagships in Paris, London and said red tape and tax obstacles faced by brands trying to Beirut. Coming within the next 18 months are locations enter other emerging markets such as India and Brazil in Beverly Hills, Hong Kong and Moscow. TO THE POINT have helped turn the spotlight on the Middle East. European brands have a history in the region, with • Population growth, economic development She noted French luxury brands are venturing be- Ferragamo arriving in 1994, Tiffany & Co. in 1995, Louis and low tariffs are seen as key drivers for yond the region’s traditional point of entry, Dubai. Key Vuitton, Gucci and Burberry in 1997 and Cartier in 2000. cities attracting new retail ventures include Riyadh, The market is forecast to grow 6.6 percent this retail in the Middle East. Jeddah, Kuwait City and Abu Dhabi. year, according to Italy’s luxury goods association, Michael Leighton, senior retail consultant, CB Fondazione Altagamma. Although trade is picking up, • Consumers in the region have an historical Richard Ellis Middle East, said retailers are using retailers acknowledged the global recession, fluctuating appreciation for European luxury goods, are Dubai, which is considered saturated, as their base and dollar and ruptured credit lines are among the factors attracted to international brands and are then expanding in the region. “There is a huge interest that have contributed to a general decline in spending prized for high per-capita consumption of in Saudi [Arabia] from franchise operators,” he said. in the region over the past two years. fashion and beauty products. “Brands feel more confident about pushing further “Traffic in stores is much slower, but from indications towards a local clientele,” said Ponsolle des Portes, add- we get from brands we work with, business and tourism • Events like the monthlong Dubai Shopping ing that for jewelry, fashion and accessories in particu- is coming back,” said Christophe Penne, vice president lar, there’s room for growth. While 90 percent of Comité and merchandise manager, Al Rubaiyat Co., which oper- Festival help drive retail businesses. Colbert’s 75 members (except for the hotel, wine and ates 63 multibrand stores and branded partnerships in spirits sectors) are present in the Middle East, collec- Saudi Arabia, with 24 store openings over the past two • The Middle East is the site of major lifestyle and tively representing 2,000 points of sale, more than half years that were planned before the downturn. Brands retail developments, with gross leasable space of the business is generated by perfume and cosmetics. distributed by the company include Balenciaga, Lanvin, growing at triple-digit rates in recent years. Tapping into Saudi Arabia’s teen market, mean- Prada, Ralph Lauren and Yves Saint Laurent. while, Al Rubaiyat Co. has aggressive plans for its new With consumers looking for quality heritage product • Bernstein Research in London estimates that concept store carrying California brands. Boosted by rather than trendy fashion, the luxury retailer scaled malls account for 70 to 90 percent of retail strong sales, the firm, which has stores in Jeddah and down volumes and shed 22 niche brands. points of sale in markets such as Saudi Arabia. Khobar, plans to possibly grow the concept outside of “We strengthened our top-tier luxury business and Saudi Arabia. Its target pre-twenties age group is said to cut off midrange and niche brands,” said Penne, adding represent a majority of Saudi Arabia’s population. FIFTH AVENUE 14 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 WWD.COM Kamali to Design Sleepwear for Wal-Mart Retail Stocks Slide 1.2% for Week By Evan Clark By Karyn Monget Sleepwear A SHARP DROP IN CONSUMER CONFIDENCE PUSHED DOWN RETAIL from Norma NORMA KAMALI WILL LAUNCH HER stocks 3.3 percent Friday and 1.2 percent for the week. Kamali. first line of sleepwear on walmart.com The S&P Retail Index slipped back below 400, falling 13.35 points to 390.58. Oct. 10. The Dow Jones Industrial Average retreated 2.5 percent, or 261.41 points, to The sleepwear, which eventually will be 10,097.90, losing 1 percent for the week. sold in stores, joins other apparel and ac- Fashion’s decliners on Friday included Liz Claiborne Inc., down 8.1 per- cessories categories such as dresses, outer- cent to $4.33; AnnTaylor Stores Corp., 7.1 percent to $16.02; Jones Apparel wear, sweaters and skirts that Kamali has Group Inc., 7 percent to $14.49; Macy’s Inc., 6.2 percent to $17.16; Saks Inc., been designing as a lifestyle brand for Wal- 5.9 percent to $7.45; J. Crew Group Inc., 5.9 percent to $33.05, and Nordstrom Mart since 2007 under her name. Inc., 5.8 percent to $32.25. The capsule collection of eight styles, Of the 172 stocks tracked by WWD, 121 fell last week, seven were flat and rendered in a butter-soft blend of cotton 44 rose. and Modal, is sized for both the contempo- Consumer confidence hit an 11-month low, according to Thomson Reuters/ rary misses’ customer in sizes XS to XXL University of Michigan’s Survey of Consumers. A preliminary reading of the and a modern plus-size line in 1X to 3X. index for this month showed a decline to 66.5 from 76 last month. Economists The same styles and colors will be fea- expected a retreat to 74. tured in both the average size and plus- “American consumers are troubled by reduced values of residential prop- size lines. erties, tight credit, high debt burdens and high levels of unemployment,” “Wal-Mart is working with suppliers who Chris G. Christopher Jr., senior principal economist at IHS Global Insight, are professional, efficient and really want to said in an analysis. “This is a very troubling report” on consumer sentiment. make it work,” Kamali said. “The looks are Investors were also reading the tea leaves in second-quarter updates from comfortable and beautiful.” corporate giants and they didn’t particularly like what they saw. General Suggested retail for the average- Electric Co.’s revenues slid 4 percent and missed analysts’ target for the size line is $8 to $12, and the quarter and, late Thursday, Google Inc.’s quarterly profits fell short of Wall plus-size group is $9 to $14. Street’s mark. Ready-to-wear-inspired International markets were generally on the wane last week, with the CAC styles include a knit boy- 40 in Paris, the Nikkei 225 in Tokyo and the SSE Composite Index in Shanghai friend shirt, a cardigan all down more than 1.5 percent. The Hang Seng Index fell a milder 0.6 per- wrap robe and six styles cent in Hong Kong and the DAX was off 0.4 percent in Frankfurt. The FTSE in lightweight jersey — a 100 rose 0.5 percent in London. crewneck sleep T-shirt, a sleep shirt with an over- For WWD’s weekly stock chart and more size ciré peace sign logo, financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. lounge leggings, a long Regarding plus sizes, lounge gown that looks Kamali, said: “I real- like a slinky evening gown, ized that I never thought I a sleep tank and a wide-leg was designing for plus-size Appeal Granted in Wal-Mart Gender Case sleep pant. Solid colors are dark women when I was designing heather gray, pale pink and dark Norma Kamali the collection. But then I noticed WASHINGTON — The U.S. Supreme terms of pay and promotion opportu- gray heather, and there are also light that the XLs were selling and I Court granted Wal-Mart Stores Inc. nities, among other accusations. gray stripes. thought, I need to focus on plus sizes be- an extension in order to file an ap- In 2004, the U.S. District Court “There are two worlds at Wal-Mart, the cause this woman likes what I’m doing. So peal in a landmark gender-discrimi- for Northern California conferred store for the people, where people shop I thought I’ll do something that I can wear nation lawsuit. class-action status in the case to for groceries, which I do, and slide by and and the plus-size woman can wear, too. I Justice Anthony Kennedy ap- female employees who had worked buy a dress or a pair of jeans,” Kamali said. never thought I would be ecstatic about proved the application for an exten- at Wal-Mart stores in the U.S. since “Then, there’s the customer who likes to designing plus-size sleepwear.” sion until Aug. 25. A 90-day period in 1998. The retailer subsequently ap- shop online. Now, there is a new, more so- Asked if lingerie will be her next project, which Wal-Mart could file the appeal pealed to the federal appeals court phisticated customer who is now shopping Kamali replied: “I’ve started with sleep- was to expire on July 25. in San Francisco, which reduced the at Wal-Mart stores and online. I may have wear and we’ll see what happens.…[Wal- In April, the U.S. Ninth Circuit size of the class action by as much contributed to this, but it also could be due Mart has] to ask me to do it. Everything is Court of Appeals in San Francisco as two-thirds. to the economy.” very strategic.” ruled 6 to 5 that a class-action law- Jeff Gearhart, Wal-Mart executive suit alleging gender discrimination vice president and general counsel, against the retailer’s female work- has denied the company discrimi- ers could go to trial. The class action nates against women and indicated stemmed from a complaint brought an appeal to the Supreme Court is Retail Apparel Prices Rise in June by Wal-Mart employee Betty Dukes likely. Attorneys for the workers es- By Liza Casabona be too low, not too high.” and five other plaintiffs in 2001, al- timate the class still contains more Prices for women’s outerwear dropped leging the retailer’s corporate struc- than 1 million women. WASHINGTON — Retail apparel prices rose 2.8 percent in monthly comparisons and ture discriminated against women in — Kristi Ellis a seasonally adjusted 0.8 percent in June fell 7.9 percent compared with June 2009. compared with May, but fell 0.4 percent Dress prices rose 0.5 percent, but declined from a year ago, the Labor Department said 9.7 percent year-over-year. Women’s suits Friday in its Consumer Price Index. and separates prices were down 1.1 per- OBITUARY Women’s apparel prices were flat and de- cent and dropped 0.5 percent in 12-month clined 1.2 percent year-over-year. Men’s ap- comparisons. The broad women’s under- parel prices rose 2.2 percent and advanced wear, nightwear, sportswear and accesso- Former Lauder Exec Andi Vernick, 60 0.8 percent in 12-month comparisons. ries category saw the only price increases The overall CPI declined 0.1 percent for women’s apparel in June, rising 3.1 per- ANDI VERNICK, A 38-YEAR VETERAN OF THE ESTÉE LAUDER COS. INC., in June, but increased 1.1 percent year- cent, and advancing 3 percent compared whose positions included vice president of creative design and operations, to-year. The so-called core index, which with a year earlier. died Thursday at her home in New Jersey after a lengthy illness. She was 60. excludes the volatile food and energy sec- The cost of men’s suits, sport coats and Vernick, who grew up in New Jersey, started as a clerk typist for tors, rose 0.2 percent month-to-month, the outerwear rose 3.1 percent and advanced Lauder’s sales promotion department after graduating from American biggest increase since October. The core 5.4 percent year-to-year. Men’s furnishings University in Washington. CPI advanced 0.9 percent compared with prices were up 2 percent and increased She soon was picked to be director of the sales promotion department a year earlier. 1.5 percent year-to-year. Prices for men’s and initiated many cost-saving and efficiency policies, the company said in a Apparel prices were the main driver of shirts and sweaters increased 1.8 per- statement. In 1989, she was elevated to vice president of promotion and co-op the core index increase, said Nigel Gault, cent, but fell 0.5 percent compared with a advertising for the Estée Lauder division and inaugurated procedures that chief U.S. economist at IHS Global Insight. year earlier. Men’s pants and shorts prices are still in place. “That hike [in apparel prices] probably gained 1.4 percent, but declined 1.6 per- She eventually became vice president of creative design and opera- reflects a mild variation in seasonal pat- cent year-over-year. tions, reporting to Aerin Lauder, Estée Lauder senior vice president and terns, not an underlying pick-up in infla- Boys’ apparel prices advanced 2.7 per- creative director. tion,” Gault said. “With the economy slowing cent and dropped 4.8 percent versus a year Last year, Vernick joined Lauder’s project management team. She subse- and commodity prices falling, the main risk ago. Girls’ apparel prices rose 1.6 percent, quently took on the role of vice president of special projects for office ser- on the price front remains that inflation will and fell 3.7 percent from June 2009. vices, reporting to Rich Marzullo, vice president of office services. Her duties included managing Lauder’s corporate archives. Vernick retired June 1. “Andi’s warm smile, generous heart, friendship and good spirit will be IN BRIEF sorely missed by her friends and colleagues,” the company said. “Her dedica- • BEDBUGS STILL BITING: The Manhattan bedbug infestation that recently forced units of tion, drive and eagerness for new challenges and responsibilities made her Abercrombie & Fitch and its Hollister sister division to temporarily close their doors inter- an invaluable resource and expert during the years she spent here.” rupted operations at another Columbus, Ohio-based retailer last week when the Victoria’s Funeral services were Sunday in Union, N.J. Secret store at Lexington Avenue and 58th Street was forced to shutter for several hours Vernick is survived by her mother, Ada L. Vernick; two brothers, Jonathan last Wednesday. VS parent Limited Brands Inc. would only say that it “immediately took and Laurence Vernick, and three nieces. action to resolve the situation” and a sales associate at the store declined to provide addi- Memorial contributions may be made to the Thoracic Research Fund at tional details. Media reports indicated that other Manhattan locations were tested for the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, 1275 York Avenue, New York. problem, but no additional stores were closed. — Matthew W. Evans WWD, MONDAY, JULY 19, 2010 15 WWD.COM

A rendering of Marc Jacobs’ FASHION SCOOPS new Tokyo flagship. EYEING THE DOOR?: Speculation is building in Paris that Véronique Gautier, president of Jean by the architectural community. The American Paul Gaultier, is about to exit the French fashion house. A spokeswoman for the Gaultier Institute of Architects just bestowed Stephen company declined to comment. Gautier, who had been chairman of Hermès Parfums’ Jaklitsch Architects, which designed the three- supervisory board and managing director of leather goods at Hermès International, joined the story, 2,800-square-foot building, with an Award of couturier in 2008. Hermès owns 45 percent of Gaultier. Excellence for it. Jaklitsch is Jacobs’ go-to architect for stores around the world, but this is the first time NEW SUPERSTAR: The Fashion Group International is crowning Nicholas Ghesquière its newest he has created a store from the ground up. Superstar. The Balenciaga designer will be this year’s recipient of the Superstar Award at FGI’s Night of Stars on Oct. 28 at Cipriani 55 Wall Street. This year’s theme will be “The Globalists,” BUSY IN BEIRUT: After New York, Shanghai and and Ghesquière will be one of several yet-to-be-disclosed Panama, Versace Home is expanding its luxury honorees at the 27th annual gala. interior design business in Beirut, Lebanon. The “Nicolas Ghesquière defines the word ‘superstar,’” Italian fashion firm will furnish common areas of a said FGI president Margaret Hayes. “Said to be one of the new residential building, Damac Tower, including most intriguing and original designers of his generation, its fitness club and spa, the concierge reception he has reinvented the House of Balenciaga and endowed and the main lobby. The 30-story edifice will be its legacy with a cool, modern edge.” As in previous completed in 2013, located in the city’s New years, Simon Doonan will host and Ruben Toledo will create Marina area and erected by Dubai-based real estate the artwork for the awards. Lord & Taylor is the event’s developer Damac Properties. lead sponsor, with other participating sponsors Arcade Marketing, Bebe, Givaudan and InStyle. FLOWER POWER: The rose the late Alexander McQueen had selected to commemorate the life of CALTER’S COLLABORATIONS: Los Angeles designer Corey Lynn Isabella Blow was unveiled at the annual Hampton Calter is starting a trio of collaborations for her namesake Court Flower Show in London. “Alexander’s Issie,” contemporary line. First on the agenda is a dress to be sold a coral peach floribunda rose cultivated in northern Ireland, was presented to her sister, Julia at Target in August. Then she’s designing another frock Delves Broughton. “Isabella was passionate and totally dedicated to fashion, but only her closest for her spring collection with actress Krysten Ritter, star friends knew of her love of gardens and, in particular, roses,” said Delves Broughton. “Their of Amy Heckerling’s new comedy, “Vamps,” also featuring unique color and beauty — combined with their thorny nature — greatly appealed to her and to Sigourney Weaver and Alicia Silverstone. In January, Calter her distinctive eye.” The plant is available through C&K Jones International Rose Specialist as a will introduce a bridal line, which will be launched at bare root, which retails at 10 pounds, or $15.11. Anthropologie before being rolled out to other retailers. Nicholas FUNNY MONEY: While most brands are content to open corners in department stores, CITY SLICKER: Ruben Toledo is getting the boxed-set Ghesquière Diesel has more or less moved into KaDeWe in Berlin. The Italian brand built a rambling treatment chez Louis Vuitton. The illustrator’s work has 5,000-square-foot Diesel dwelling, complete with a car parked atop an Astroturf lawn in the enlivened Vuitton’s City Guides since 1998 and the boxed main-floor atrium. Almost everything in the Diesel apartment — including a pink TV in the set reunites 100 of them in postcard form and in fluorescent colors. The retrospective covers living room, tables, chairs, Diesel Farm olive oil, even the kitchen sink — is for sale, along 100 cities, for which Toledo aims to depict its “special and eternal essence.” The box set is with jeans packed in various crannies. “It’s all about being stupid,” said Thorsten Link, Diesel priced at 85 euros, or about $109 at current exchange, from Oct. 15 at Vuitton boutiques. country manager for Germany. “That’s been our campaign for the last six months and it’s going on. We even have stupid money — when people get change, there are coins that say, WITH HONORS: The new Marc Jacobs Collection flagship building on Tokyo’s Omotesando-dori ‘Use me for something stupid.’” He continued, “At a time when everything is going digital, in Ayoma isn’t expected to open at least until November, but it’s already getting top accolades we’re being analog. And what’s more analog than inviting people to your home?”

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COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, TECHNICAL DESIGN Asst. Sales Person PRODUCTIONS Charles Garnier - Paris All line, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. NEW YORK-METRO AREA Knitwear co. seeks sales asst. Job du- Call Sherry 212-719-0622 ties include all aspects of customer a luxury designer jewelry brand since RESPONSIBILITIES INCLUDE BUT svc, and travel to regional shows. send 1901 with current world headquarters ARE NOT LIMITED TO: resume [email protected] or fax: located in Los Angeles, California, is 212 997-0022 Showrooms & Lofts PATTERNS, SAMPLES, • Developing Technical Design meas- actively seeking a National Sales Di- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS PRODUCTIONS urements and Block Specs in accord- rector and three (3) Account Execu- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Full service shop to the trade. ance with Design’s vision while main- tives for the US and Caribbean. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 taining brand and product specific DIRECTOR OF SALES The ideal candidates will have a mini- consistency SPANX, the revolutionary brand lead- mum of 5 years working with a luxury, • Maintaining all Block Spec inventory er in the manufacturing and sale of designer or fine jewelry brand. Addi- for Grading and Base Fit women’s Hosiery, Intimate Apparel, tionally, they must have a proven Cust Svc/Import Coord • Organizing and Maintaining Block Foundations, Swimwear and Men’s track record of sales, account manage- Midtown Apparel Co seeks organized Sample inventory products seeks a Director of Sales. ment, prospecting, CRM and strong self-motivated indv’l to work in fast • Requesting and Tracking all Tech/ This position is based in Atlanta GA, working knowledge of competitive paced operations dept. Prior exp (2- Fit related Sample requests landscapes. Must be willing to travel 5yrs) w/import traffic mgmnt. Duties • Measuring, reviewing, and analyzing requires a Bachelors Degree, 15+ years of experience with a national extensively throughout the assigned include customer service, follow-up all Product Development and Block territory. customs & freight releases, schedule samples for overall fit, balance, and brand managing major retailers, lead- deliveries, shipping advice & dealing construction ing a team of Account Executives. This If you are interested in joining a world directly with our warehouses. • Daily Communications with Over- position reports to the VP of Sales and renowned jeweler, please contact us at E-mail resume & salary reqs to: seas offices includes travel. [email protected] or 213-892- [email protected] Qualified candidates are invited to 0075 X 118. JOB REQUIREMENTS: forward their resume to • Degree in Fashion or Fashion Related [email protected] DESIGNER Field International brand seeks indep. de- • Must be a Team Player and have a Relocation has not been budgeted sign consultant to create mens & la- strong independent work ethic for this position Jewelry Independent dies casual/sportswear line. Fall & • Ability to multitask and meet tight Sales Representatives Spring offerings. Must have excellent deadlines, must help to maintain communication/graphic design skills company calendar Baccarat defines beauty and the to produce CADS, line sheets, • Experience in Children’s wear boys a French art of living. Baccarat is recog- storyboards, etc. Fees commensurate must nized globally as the eminent creator with exp. E-mail resume w/phone • Experience in Girls Inf-16 a plus of luxury crystal, offering exquisite ob- number to: [email protected] • Understanding of garment construction jects created by distinctive artists and and patternmaking designers. • Proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop, Excel, Word, Outlook, and WebPDM Baccarat is expanding the Jewelry • Gerber Accumark Training a Plus business throughout the United States • Strong Communicational Skills, both and wants to partner with established written and verbal Independent Jewelry Sales Reps, who have existing relationships with Please send resume and salary upper-moderate to higher-end clients. requirements to Commission based arrangement. [email protected] [email protected] or Elinor Martens 732.346.4202 FAIRCHILD CLASSIFIED IS NOW SELF SERVICE! To place a print ad, go to www.fairchildclassified.com For online-only recruitment ads, go to wwdcareers.com © 2010 Michael Kors. Style: Medina.