FIRST FAMILY’S INAUGURAL WARDROBE/6 Global Edition WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • January 11, 2005 • $2.00 ▲ Jenna Bush’s Inaugural Ready-to-Wear/Textiles gown by Badgley Mischka.

Forward Observer LOS ANGELES — Ready for a night out on

MELISSA MAGSAYSAY the town? Sexy strapless cuts get a touch of Fifties flounce this season, perfect for posing along the boardwalk. Here, for example, Lazaro’s silk charmeuse dress. ANT: JENNIFER BELLI; STYLED BY ANT: Fallout From Tsunami: I LIVELY/NOUS; FASHION ASSIST FASHION I LIVELY/NOUS; Sri Lanka to Ask U.S. For Breaks on Tariffs By Scott Malone and John Zarocostas acing a steep climb to rebuild its

Y ALEXIS BENVENISTE/CELESTINE; MODEL: NIKK economy, Sri Lanka — where more than 30,000 people were F killed by the devastating Dec. 26 tsunami — plans to petition the U.S. government for apparel trade breaks. The physical and economic disruption came at a critical moment for the Indian Ocean island nation’s economy, which was

T BEACH, BY JEREMY GOLDBERG; HAIR AND MAKEUP B T BEACH, BY already at risk of losing its position in the garment industry as a result of the Jan. 1 lifting of quotas by the 148 nations of the World Trade Organization. Apparel exports account for more than 60 percent See Sri Lanka, Page16 PHOTOGRAPHED AT BALBOA FUN ZONE, NEWPOR AT PHOTOGRAPHED 2 WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles California Deluge Tests Retailers GENERAL By Michelle Dalton Tyree Looking to rebuild its economy, Sri Lanka, where 30,000 people were killed and Nola Sarkisian-Miller 1 by the Dec. 26 tsunami, plans to petition the U.S. for trade breaks. EYE: Author Liz Jensen discusses “The Ninth Life of Louis Drax”…Talking LOS ANGELES — Retailers in 4 shop with sculptor Will Ryman…Sipping bubbly with Mireille Guiliano. Southern California, after five days of pounding rains and FASHION: First Lady Laura Bush and daughters Jenna and Barbara are snow in higher elevations that 6 upping the fashion wattage at this year’s inaugural and surrounding bashes. have caused at least nine RTW: Glamour in all its shapes and forms will be on display at exhibits at deaths, said that the severe 8 the Museum at the FIT and the Museum of the City of New York. weather deterred some shop- pers, though other stores report- Classified Advertisements ...... 26-27 ed normal activity. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is While there was no definitive [email protected], using the individual’s name. assessment on retailing and ap- parel manufacturing as of late WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Monday, the weather was affect- VOLUME 189, NO. 7. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional ing millions of lives from Horton issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in Plaza in San Diego to Union February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Square in San Francisco. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Some dedicated consumers Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior defied the elements even as Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at conditions closed some roads additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration and schools, forced evacuations No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. and triggered scores of traffic POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR accidents. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is “We were impacted very no- required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new ticeably on Saturday,” said Fred subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Levine, owner of the contempo- AP PHOTO/ NICK UT PHOTO BY correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, Relentless rains in California have caused mud slides and flooding. please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild rary boutique chain M. Fredric, magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully which operates 19 locations screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. around Southern California. At the Lola Rouge boutique ticularly strong weekend, and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED “But surprisingly, on Sunday, at the Fashion Island Mall in attributed it to glitzy customers MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND when the rains were worse, Newport Beach, “we got a lot of coming in for fittings for events TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED business was as good as a nor- die-hard shoppers who come to related to Sunday’s Golden TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE mal Sunday.” us as a destination, but the cen- Globe Awards. Even a leak in ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. the back of the store didn’t dis- rupt business, said Webb. No If they make it in the door, they’re gowns were damaged. “If they make it in the door, “buying. they’re buying,” said Wendy In Brief Freedman-Borsuk, owner of ” ● — Wendy Freedman-Borsuk, Polkadots & Moonbeams Polkadots & Moonbeams, a vin- VERSACE GETS VERTICAL: Versace is getting an early start on tage shop here. spring cleaning. The company is planning to split its operations He attributed the brisk busi- ter isn’t as busy when it rains,” The deluge on Sunday after- and assets into two distinct subsidiaries controlled by a holding ness to customers’ cabin fever. said co-owner Sandy Johnson. noon didn’t keep cars from lin- company as part of ongoing restructuring efforts, a spokesman “I think they had waited long Johnson said the weekend ing up along two blocks to enter confirmed. But he declined to comment on a press report in enough and just wanted to get was not as bad as it could have the car park at the new Target weekly magazine Il Mondo that Donatella Versace and Santo out.” been. “It rains so little that it re- complex in West Hollywood. Versace have agreed to stay off both subsidiaries’ boards, thus The stores only had minor ally isn’t going to affect our over- A number of apparel firms granting more independence to chief executive officer water damage with a “few drips all business,’’ she said. “This said they had employee ab- Giancarlo Di Risio’s management team. Both Donatella and here and there,” he said. week is a blip in the year.” sences because of road closures, Santo would retain their boardroom seats at the main share- A record 2.58 inches of rain Even some of Rodeo Drive’s including John Paul Richard holding company. Il Mondo said that one of the new companies was recorded Sunday in down- usually fastidious well-heeled Inc., a misses’-focused firm will control the brands, licenses, production assets and about 20 town Los Angeles, and as much shoppers braved the winds and based in Calabasas, about 40 stores, while the other subsidiary will manage real estate like as 7 inches of rain fell in parts rain as they fled from shop to miles north of downtown L.A. the palazzo in Milan’s Via Gesú worth 40.6 million euros, or $53.5 of Southern California from salon to restaurant, many of which and south of the 101 Freeway. million. The magazine said the house on Lake Como will stay a Friday to Sunday. appeared to be surprisingly busy. Some weren’t able to come part of the umbrella company, Givi Holding, through which The weekend was normal, “The rain is not going to stop a into work on Monday because of Allegra Beck and Santo and Donatella Versace hold their stakes and gift card spending was Hollywood woman,” said mud slides that closed a 10-mile in the fashion house. brisk, said Jennifer Halloway, Michelle Webb, owner of Catwalk, stretch of the 101 Freeway be- spokeswoman for the Simon a mostly vintage store in the tween Ventura and Santa ● CHANGES AFOOT: Foot Locker Inc. on Monday promoted Nick Property-owned Stanford Fairfax District of Los Angeles. Barbara. California Highway Grayston to president and chief executive officer of its U.S. Foot Shopping Center in Palo Alto. She said the store had a par- Patrol officials in Santa Locker division, and named Keith Daly president and ceo of Barbara said they weren’t cer- Lady Foot Locker, replacing Grayston. Both men will report to tain if the highway would be Rick Mina, president and ceo of Foot Locker Inc. U.S.A., effec- open by Tuesday. tive Feb. 1. Grayston is replacing Tom Finn, who is retiring from While there were no reports the company after 35 years of service. Grayston has been with of actual shipping delays, those Foot Locker since 1998, and in that time, has held executive impassable highways were lead- posts at Foot Locker Europe, Champs Sports, Foot Locker ing to traffic snarls and trucking Canada and Lady Foot Locker. Daly was most recently executive delays, said John Paul Beltran, vice president of sales at And 1, an athletic and apparel manu- co-chief executive officer of facturer. Prior to that, he held executive posts at Footaction and John Paul Richard. Kinney Shoe Corp. “We’ve experienced an addi- MATTE JERSEY tional day or two for deliveries ● ZOOM ON ZEGNA: Ermenegildo Zegna can soon boast from and we’ve had some employees shades to suits. The Italian men’s wear giant has signed its first working overtime just to make eyewear license with De Rigo. The deal calls for the develop- NY: 212-868-4188 LA: 213-627-9055 www.britanniamills.net sure we can get the goods out on ment, production and worldwide distribution of Zegna-branded time,” he said. frames and sunglasses. The first collection bows for fall 2005. Although a sales forecast was not given, the Zegna deal helps fill a void at the Italian eyewear manufacturer, which lost its his- toric licensee Prada in 2003. Both Zegna and De Rigo declined to specify the length of the license, saying only it’s a long-term agreement.

● MAKUEN TO EDDIE BAUER: David Makuen, 37, has been named vice president of marketing at Eddie Bauer, effective THE TIGER COMPANIES Jan. 18. He reports to Fabian Mansson, president and chief exec- Tiger Button Co Inc - New York utive officer, and will oversee the company’s brand communica- Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong tions, retail creative design, marketing programs for apparel, Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. home and outlet, copywriting and credit and loyalty programs. Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands Most recently, Makuen was vice president of marketing of the di- Tiger Trimming Inc - New York rect division of Ann Taylor and Loft brands, where he oversaw multichannel marketing. Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected]

4 WWD GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 WWW.WWD.COM

A Ryman Sculptor Will Ryman. The Dark Prince work. orld When British author Liz Liz Jensen Jensen started writing “The Ninth Life of Louis Drax” ® eye (Bloomsbury), her fifth novel, W she didn’t quite realize it was autobiographical. The thriller unravels the mystery of what happened to Louis, a ’s somber and sometimes even monstrous nine-year-old, who falls off a cliff during an argument with his mother at a family picnic ill gone awry and lands in a coma. In the Thirties, on a holiday in Switzerland, Jensen’s grandmother had a

fight with one of her sons, who went off into W the mountains and was never seen or heard from again. When the weather turned bad NEW YORK — Sculptor Will Ryman is a creatures, which Ryman decided not to and the search parties were called off, she puzzling combination of easy-going non- name, that alternately bring to mind insisted on going out to look for him. The chalance and obsessive-compulsive angst. Steven Spielberg’s “Close Encounters of grandmother died falling off a cliff. In person, he has a quiet, gentle presence. the Third Kind” and Edvard Munch’s “Nobody really knows what happened,” But what the six-foot-tall artist’s sly smile, “The Scream.” says the novelist. “It’s still a mystery.” hooded eyes and spackle-stained sweat- Ryman’s latest exhibition also includes Jensen’s mother was orphaned at 11 and shirts mask is an unsparing, almost rever- a number of small-scale sculptures, brought up by an aunt and uncle. “When I ent appreciation for detail. housed in tiny, individually lit boxes, pow- started to write about a family going on a For instance, in preparation for his ered by AA batteries and mounted on the picnic in the mountains, that must have been in the back next show at the Galerie Klüser 2 in walls of the gallery using cleats. “I wanted of my mind, but I didn’t realize until I was well into the Munich, which runs from Jan. 18 through them to architecturally float, so that you book that I was writing about it.” the end of March, Ryman meticulously might almost miss them,” he says. The fig- As for her mother’s reaction to the finished product, reconstructed the gallery space on the urines inside “are made of Sculpey clay — “she loves reading my books, but this is the one book that second floor of the Manhattan building he you know, that little kids use,” and range she just doesn’t get.” owns on the Bowery, a process that took from mournful little men looking up “Louis Drax” has been a runaway success in the U.K., several weeks and at least one trip to through the glass to a disembodied, six- where it was published last summer (it hits bookstores Europe. fingered hand. Stateside this month). It has been compared with Mark “I wanted to make sure there wouldn’t “It was a way of expressing a metaphor Haddon’s “The Curious Incident of the Dog in the be any surprises when I got there,” says for being quiet, clean and normal on the Nighttime,” which features another unusual hero, one Ryman. “They sent me a floor plan. Then I outside, and very different on the inside,” who is afflicted with a disease akin to Asperger’s went [to Munich] and walked through the Ryman says of the boxes. “When you look Syndrome. As it turns out, the two writers share a literary space. When I came back, we made a in the boxes, what you see is anything agent. Haddon turned in his book shortly before Jensen, chalk outline, and a friend of mine who’s from cute to very upsetting. It depends on and both books could soon be films: Brad Pitt’s company, an architect built it for me” — complete the viewer. Plan B, owns the rights to “Curious Incident,” and with a display window that duplicates the “At my last show in Chelsea, I didn’t writer/director Anthony Minghella bought “Louis Drax.” (While “Curious Incident” Klüser’s glass facade. have any control over light. There was so crossed generations in readership, “Louis Drax” is more of a thriller marketed to Though his father, Robert, is a celebrat- much of it flooding into the space from adults.) ed painter, Ryman, born in 1969, didn’t these skylights overhead. This was a way “I can now see it as a movie,” Jensen says, adding that Minghella’s optioning of the originally conceive of a career in the plas- of controlling it.” project took her by surprise. But the film “will give back my own story to me,” she tic arts. Pointing to a piece from that earlier explains. “I know I’ll be surprised and delighted — I’m looking forward to seeing “I was writing [plays] for 10 or 12 years, Gasser & Grunert Chelsea show entitled what’s different.” but I got writer’s block,” he says. “The Cage” — a container-sized box that Jensen always wanted to write a novel from the perspective of a child. “I have two “Whatever I was trying to get to through viewers step into and the figures are out- boys of my own and I love the way they talk, that playground language that I hear at writing, I couldn’t get to it. And then one side the bars looking in — he leans in and home,” she says. (She splits her time between England and Denmark, where her day, I had this idea to sculpt my charac- says, almost in a whisper, “Can you believe boyfriend, also a writer, lives.) To give Louis a voice, she stole neologisms from her 10- ters, and it just sort of bridged to this.” someone bought this?” and 15-year-old sons, such as “donkey dick,” which is what they call a certain type of “This” is an ongoing series of spindly, Describing “The Bedroom,” another French sausage they like. human-sized sculptures made from piece from a former show, Ryman sums up The narrative is split between Louis and Dr. Dannachet, his physician, who devel- Celluclay, “a kind of instant papier-mâché his take on his own art. “I tried to show ops an obsession for Louis’ mother. “Louis was easy to write,” Jensen says. “It was the of shredded paper with a glue component love, but it came out twisted and terrible. grown-up part that was hard.” that becomes very hard, almost like con- Everyone thought, ‘Oh, Will’s got issues,’ Despite Jensen’s success, the most important review, so far, has come from her crete.” Previously, Ryman added paint to but I think it’s interesting that what you elder son: “He stayed up all night reading it,” she says. “He absolutely loved it. There the composite before it dried, but for his intend to show sometimes comes out in is a fear among children of writers that they won’t like what they’re parents produce, latest group of works, he left the Celluclay different ways.” so it was a big relief.” white. The result is a group of haunting — Sara James — Marshall Heyman

ubiquitous champagne glass and trim physique in spite of 300-plus restaurant Mireille outings each year. She brushed off their Guiliano A Life, Sans Gras pleas until last year, when a friend at a publishing house insisted he put her in NEW YORK — Mireille Guiliano glides into City of Light, relishes quieter endeavors. touch with a literary agent. The reluctant Jean Georges and within seconds “To sit in a Paris cafe early in the morning scribe agreed to whip up a proposal and champagne flutes are whisked to her table. with the newspaper and to have a croissant before she knew it, Knopf bought the book A little bubbly for a Wednesday business is a luxury to me,” she says. without it ever being put up for auction. lunch might seem a tad indulgent, but for Determined not to write a diet book with Contrary to her agent’s presumption, the Guiliano it is a way of life. Aside from being charts and calorie counts, Guiliano peppers title was not an act of marketing genius, but president and chief executive officer of her tome with first-person accounts. Guiliano’s standard line when anyone asked Clicquot Inc., the maker of the tangerine- Readers can practically hear the rustling of how she stayed so slim. But it wasn’t always labeled champagne she is sipping, the fallen leaves beneath the narrator’s feet as that way. After spending a high school smartly dressed woman penned “French she forages for mushrooms. “There were semester in the States, her father greeted Women Don’t Get Fat,” (Knopf) a new book many things I hadn’t thought of since her with, “You look like a sack of potatoes.” that preaches a deprivation-free existence. childhood, but it’s my life, so I just wrote it,” Guiliano isn’t afraid to laugh at her own Like the iced chestnuts she allows she says. expense. “I knew what he had in mind: not a herself only on Christmas, Guiliano Given her ear for details, it’s no surprise market-size sack, but one of the big, 150- encourages a splurge here and there. But all Guiliano reveres the storytelling of Eudora pound burlap affairs that are delivered to in all, she spurs readers to give up the guilt Welty, Gabriel Garcia Marquez and Andrée grocery stores and restaurants.” and dieting extremes, to eat smarter and Chedid and once worked as an interpreter Her writing, like her three-meals-a-day more joyfully — provided they can stomach at the United Nations. But her own entry diet, is all part of her joie de vivre. “In the occasional bowl of miracle leek soup. into the literary world was nothing short of French, there is an expression, Heading up a company owned by LVMH forced. ‘Happiness is a muscle,’ but you have to Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton might qualify Friends hounded Guiliano for years to exercise it,” she says, clenching her fist as a pinnacle for some, but Guiliano, who write a book about her secrets — for emphasis.

has apartments in both Manhattan and the bewildered, or perhaps miffed, by her — Rosemary Feitelberg MITRA ROBERT THOMAS IANNACCONE; GUILIANO BY RYMAN BY OF BLOOMSBURY; JENSEN PHOTOS COURTESY

6 WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005

By Rosemary Feitelberg Barbara’s silk Inauguralchiffon gown with NEW YORK — First Lady Laura Bush and her daughters Jenna jeweled straps by and Barbara are certain to up the fashion wattage at this year’s swearing-in ceremony — and the bashes that engulf it. Badgley Mischka, The First Lady will be pulling a doubleheader with Oscar for the Black Tie de la Renta on Inauguration Day Jan. 20, opting for an em- and Boots broidered cashmere coat and a wool bouclé sheath dress, Inaugural Ball. both in winter white, for the daytime ceremony and a silvery blue evening gown for the Inaugural Ball, the White House said Monday. For the Black Tie and Boots Inaugural Ball the previous night, she will wear a raspberry awning-striped silk taffeta shirtdress from Carolina Herrera. In step with their mother’s all-out elegance, the Bush twins are also putting their designer know-how to good use. The 23-year-olds will be decked out in de la Renta, Badgley Mischka and Lela Rose, the White House said. Barbara Bush tapped up-and-comer Derek Lam for her inaugural outfit, a pale yellow tie-neck blouse with an ivory wool bias- seamed skirt, topped off with a pale blue slim-fitting cashmere trench. She is wearing de la Renta’s blush chiffon gown with petal embroidered skirt and sequins on the bodice to the Inaugural Ball, the White House said, which is a long version of a short dress he showed last February. For the swearing-in, Jenna Bush will wear a beige wool bouclé coat with gold and beige embroidery over beige gabardine pants and a cashmere shell, the White House said. She and her sister have turned to Anthony Nak for jewelry for the Inaugural Ball and the Black Tie and Boots event. De la Renta said, “As an American designer, it is a great privilege to do clothes for the First Family. In America, people look at the First Lady as an image of something that represents the country. In this particu- lar case, you have a First Lady who has the admira- tion of most people who come in contact with her be- cause she is so unbelievably natural and gracious to everyone.” For the three candlelight inaugural dinners on Jan. 19, the First Lady has lined up a crystal rose, V-neck hand- beaded lace gown from Peggy Jennings. The lace and hand-beading were done in France. “When I showed her the fabric she thought it was very beautiful and a very unusual color,” Jennings said. “Color is very important to Mrs. Bush. She can wear bright or she can wear very soft colors. She loves V- necks and looks very very pretty in them. She has won- derful shoulders.” Like their mother, the twins have a clear sense of style. There was no hemming and hawing when the Laura Bush’s First Family trooped into Lela Rose’s showroom, the embroidered winter inner workings of which Barbara Bush experienced white cashmere coat firsthand a few summers back as a Yale intern. and wool bouclé “They were definite about what they wanted,” said sheath, by Oscar de la Rose, a fellow Texan. “We worked within certain styles but they definitely have a good sense about Renta, for the what looks good on them.” Swearing In Ceremony. Ditto said Lam, who said Barbara Bush had done her homework, reading up on him in the November issue of Vogue and flipping through his look book. Barbara Bush’s “She is a young woman who very much knows cashmere what her style is — classic with a little bit of a trenchcoat, modern edge,” Lam said. “She is a tiny size and a satin-trimmed nice height. It was very easy.” silk blouse and Despite their fashion savvy, the First natural wool Daughters aren’t expected to have a formal bias skirt, by showing at the Smithsonian any time soon. Derek Lam, for Benjamin Harrison’s daughter is the only pres- the Swearing In idential daughter to have a frock on display Ceremony. there, a gold number embroidered with gold- enrod, her father’s favorite flower. As to whether the Bush girls’ inaugural frocks will make the cut, Lisa Kathleen Graddy, curator of the First Ladies’ Collection at the Smithsonian, said, “I can’t imagine re- questing them for the collection.” — With contributions from Joanna Ramey and Bobbi Queen WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 7 WWW.WWD.COM

Jenna Bush’s silk crepe gown with metallic leather and jeweled trim, by Badgley Mischka, for the Style Inaugural Ball.

Jenna Bush’s gown in bands of silk and metallic ribbon, by Lela Rose, for Black Tie and Boots. Laura’s handbeaded lace gown, by Peggy Jennings, for the Candlelight Dinners.

Laura’s silk taffeta shirtdress by Carolina Herrera for Black Tie and Boots. 8 WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005

Ready–to–Wear Report Museums Ready to Glam It Up Jacobs Says Get It While You Can NEW YORK — Marc Jacobs likes nothing better than to be a one- NEW YORK — Tinseltown takes the prize for glam- to the 1991 Academy Awards. Adrian’s red, se- hit wonder. our, but New York is vying for an honorable mention. quined evening dress worn by Joan Crawford in The designer has built a loyal following for his eclectic, non- Glamour in all its shapes and forms will be on the film “The Bride Wore Red” is expected to be apparel creations that are offered intermittently in Marc by Marc display in two upcoming exhibitions at the another showstopper. Jacobs stores. Through a collaboration with Vans this fall, he Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Stephen Gundle, senior lecturer at the whipped up a variety of limited-edition, $85 sneakers and wound and at the Museum of the City of New York, which University of London, and Thomas Sokolowski, di- up selling 1,400 pairs. At press time, there were only 42 pairs left will bow Feb. 15 in their respective spaces. rector of the Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh, to be had, and 1,400 pairs have been reordered. Executives from F.I.T. and the Museum of the City will be among the scholars, curators and authors Surfboards emblazoned with images of various countries’ na- of New York collaborated — even agreeing to use who will gather Feb. 25 and 26 at FIT for its third tional flags and retailing for about $550 are the latest hard-to- glamour in their show names — to drum up inter- annual fashion symposium, which is being held in find items that have been unveiled at retail. Produced by Mad est in each exhibit. conjunction with the exhibition. Dog Surf, the boards will be offered along with the designer’s Phyllis Magidson, curator of cos- A Academy Award fashions, film and customized skateboards, when the Marc by Marc Jacobs store tumes and textiles at the Museum of Galanos theater costumes and fashion pho- opens in Los Angeles at the end of next month or in early March. the City of New York, explained, “We dress tography will be among the subjects Condoms, playing cards, sleeping bags and beanbag chairs are envisioned working in tandem. These to be explored. some of the other short-lived products that have made a splash are two sides of the same coin.” shown at Each museum will reference the with Marc by Marc Jacobs shoppers. Adhering to the adage that FIT’s “Glamour: Fashion, Film, FIT. other’s glamour-themed exhibits to people want what they can’t have, the company plans to continue Fantasy” runs through April 7 and encourage museumgoers to see both. to offer more customized pieces. features 100 fashions, including sever- Uptown at the Museum of the City The designer’s business partner Robert Duffy said Marc by Marc al worn by Hollywood icons such as a of New York, “Glamour, New York Jacobs fans tend to drop by the Bleecker Street store here every Galanos leopard print chiffon gown Style” will spotlight glamorous peo- week or two. “It’s almost a social thing. People hang out, talk and trimmed with feathers worn by ple and events in New York City, as they might buy something. They always want something new,” Duffy Rosalind Russell and a Schiaparelli well as the tough-to-define concept of said. “They’re such a fun customer. They’re open to anything.” brilliant red evening dress worn by glamour as a commodity. Gowns worn — R.F. Rita Hayworth. by Caroline Webster Schermerhorn Valerie Steele, director and chief Astor, Babe Paley and opera star curator of the Museum at FIT, noted Renata Tebaldi will be on display that scholars believe glamour was ini- through July 7. ABRAMS NEW ROLE: Len tially associated with aristocracy The uptown museum also touches Abrams has joined London Fog prior to the French Revolution. Over the years, it upon the 1789 gala that celebrated the election of MARKET BASKET Industries as president. became a moniker for girls, gigolos, WWI aviators George Washington, the 1860 Prince of Wales Ball Some of the post’s responsibilities were previously handled by and Hollywood stars. While doing research for the and Truman Capote’s iconic 1966 Black & White Gary Hansen, who resigned in September as president and chief exhibition, Steele dug up her favorite description Ball, among other shindigs. operating officer of Pacific Trail Inc., a division of London Fog of glamour in Margaret Thorp’s 1939 book “Our exhibition is about glamour in New York Industries. Abrams is based in New York and reports to David “America at the Movies.” “Glamour is sex appeal City, and in doing so, glamour is categorized by Greenstein, chief executive officer of London Fog Industries, whose plus luxury plus elegance plus romance.” events that determined glamour through associa- divisions also include London Fog and the London Fog Factory Outlet Dresses donned by Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn tion,” Magidson said, admitting that not all the Store Division. In his new role, Abrams will focus on sales and Monroe and Madonna will also be showcased, in- guests were necessarily glamorous. “Many people merchandising as well as overseeing the retail division and cluding the Bob Mackie strapless gown covered attained a level of glamour by being there.” Homestead Fabrics. Most recently, he was owner and president of

PHOTO BY IRVING SOLERO; COURTESY THE MUSEUM AT FIT THE MUSEUM AT SOLERO; COURTESY IRVING PHOTO BY with white bugle beads worn by the Material Girl — Rosemary Feitelberg Leonard Howard Corp., a consulting firm.

MATERIAL WORLD & TECHNOLOGY SOLUTIONS MARCH 16-18, 2005 MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA WWW.MATERIAL-WORLD.COM

THE LARGEST GLOBAL SOURCING, FABRIC, TRIM, TECHNOLOGY TRADE EVENT

MORE EXHIBITS THAN EVER BEFORE AN OFFICIAL EVENT OF

BREAKING COLOR/TREND FORECASTS FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2006

GLOBAL SOURCING PAVILION PROUDLY ENDORSED BY

TEXTILE DISTRIBUTORS ASSOCIATION ABRIC::TRIM :: SOURCING :: TECHNOLOGY COMPREHENSIVE EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM

F NATIONAL TEXTILE ASSOCIATION AMERICAN YARN SPINNERS ASSOCIATION WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 9

Te xtile & Trade Report Shanghai in Major Port Expansion Push By John Zarocostas dling demand, Shanghai authorities also are reaching out will have an annual capacity of 2.2 million TEUs, Lu said. to foreign investors and leading global terminal operators. “Shanghai is an open city,” said Song Chao, information SHANGHAI — China’s biggest city and largest port, In September, Shanghai International Port (Group) director of the Shanghai municipal government. Shanghai, is in the midst of a multibillion-dollar port-fa- Co. and Hutchinson, the Hong Kong-based global termi- Major shipping lines, including Maersk, APL and cilities expansion intended to meet growing needs pro- nal operator, entered into a 4 billion yuan, or $483 mil- P&O Nedlloyd, all operate offices in Shanghai. pelled by huge increases in exports. lion at current exchange, joint venture toward expan- During the first half of 2004, exports of textiles and Port officials said the volume of goods being handled sion of the Shanghai Waigaoqiao Port. apparel from Shanghai’s port were worth $17.6 billion, is increasing by 30 percent a year, and in order to cope, Lu Haihu, the port’s president, told reporters in up 35 percent from the same period a year earlier. Of they are investing in new berths and even constructing London that the expansion would increase the port’s ca- that volume, $4.3 billion was delivered to Japan, $3 bil- a bridge to an island port 18 miles off the coast. pacity by 2 million 20-foot containers, known as TEUs, lion to the European Union and $2.8 billion to the U.S., It’s all part of the effort to handle China’s enormous next year. That would allow the facility to boost its vol- according to customs statistics cited by the official export growth. The trade is straining the global com- ume by more than 10 percent. Chinese Xinhua news agency. mercial shipping market, and maritime industry ana- Shanghai also has embarked on the construction of the Textiles and apparel accounted for about 25 percent of lysts assert that Chinese goods are a major reason for Yangshan deep-water port terminal, located about 18 miles Shanghai port’s total exports. current boosts in cargo rates, which are expected to from the city on two islands in the East China Sea. That $2 For the first 11 months of 2004, Shanghai handled im- continue rising in the next several years. billion project is designed to eventually handle 25 million ports and exports valued at $286.8 billion, up 41 percent To speed up the task of meeting the growing cargo-han- TEUs a year. The first five berths, which are to open in 2006, from 2003.

Air Cargo Soars On China Growth By John Zarocostas

GENEVA — Driven by the Chinese economy, growth in air cargo volume in the Asia- Pacific region is forecast to expand by an average of 7 percent annually between 2005 and 2008 compared with the projected global in- crease of 6 percent, accord- ing to the International Air Transport Association. “The Asia-Pacific freight markets will continue to be driven by the booming Chinese economy and its increasing role as the engine of growth in the region,” the group said in its latest freight forecast. The removal of quotas on Jan. 1 and the liberalization of the global apparel market also are likely to contribute to an increase in shipments hauled by air from major hubs in the region, such as Shanghai and Hong Kong. The rapid globalization of the world economy, spurred by the advent of just-in-time production, has helped boost air freight activity, the report said. While the high cost of air freight, which can exceed the cost of sea freight sixfold, makes it less commonly used in the apparel industry, im- porters sometimes turn to shipping by air when they’re chasing fashion orders or are otherwise pressed for time. Giovanni Busangani, IATA director general, told re- porters at a news conference last month that a move to pa- perless transactions could cut world cargo costs by $1 billion a year. In 2003, 21.4 million tons of cargo were hauled by air worldwide, of which 10.8 million tons were carried by all-cargo flights. Moreover, this year, freight will in- crease by 10.1 percent to 24.5 million tons. David Turnbull, chief ex- ecutive officer of Hong Kong- based Cathay Pacific, said, “The expansion of the Chinese market will likely do more to remodel the aviation industry landscape than low- cost carriers.” He noted that cargo today ac- counts for about a third of Asian carriers’ revenue streams. 10 WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005

Te x tiles & Trade Spring Fling NEW YORK — Spring has sprung. Fabrics for the spring-summer 2006 season — on display next week at European Preview, which runs Jan. 19 and 20 at the Metropolitan Pavilion here — feature a soft palette with colors such as coral, lavender and blue grays. Lightly washed and gauzy cottons and linens abound, many with abstract or botanical prints. Metallics continue for another season, yet are toned down with washed-out tones of gray and rose.

Puig Codina’s printed cotton features a rubber puff print.

Gratacos’ metallic jacquard in rayon, cotton, polyester and Lurex.

Mediterranea by Marioboselli’s striped linen and Lycra spandex jersey. Weisbrod Zürrer’s metallic jacquard in linen, acetate and Lurex.

Komar’s printed cotton. DANIELA GILBERT CENTENO; STYLED BY TALAYA PHOTOS BY WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 11 WWW.WWD.COM

Texdam’s striped acetate and Lycra spandex.

Komar’s printed cotton. Sidogras’ seersucker stripe in cotton. Marc Rozier’s jacquard in linen, cotton and silk. INNOVATION ASIA 24 COMPANIES FROM ASIA SHOWING CREATIVE FABRICS & GARMENTS FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2006 AT AMUSE, 110 WEST 18TH STREET, 3RD FLOOR, NEW YORK JANUARY 18, 10:30AM–5:30PM, JANUARY 19 & 20, 9AM–5:30PM

January 18 &20 at 1PM | TREND SEMINAR – RESERVATIONS REQUIRED January 19 at 1PM | TREND SEMINAR – RESERVATIONS REQUIRED MID-DECADE DIRECTIONS 2006 - LOOK FOR THE UNEXPECTED 2006 - LIFESTYLE, COLOR, TEXTILES AND DESIGN BLENDING MENSWEAR/WOMENSWEAR/LIFESTYLE TRENDS an audiovisual presentation with David Wolfe, an audiovisual presentation with Jo-An Jenkins, Creative Director of the Doneger Group. Editor-in-Chief, Jenkins UK.

TO PRE-REGISTER RSVP (212) 944-7817 or (212) 944-7820 OR www.innovationasiany.com

CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST AND HORS D’OEUVRES 12 WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005

Te x tiles & Trade Dollar’s Slide Helps Turkey, Hurts EU

By Evan Clark Given the currency values, Milgrom said business for European mills has not been bad. NEW YORK — European and Turkish mills readying their There are other challenges, though. In addition to Turkey, spring 2006 collections for a slate of trade shows here this vendors are turning more to the Far East. The region, where month are being affected in opposite ways by the fall of the China is the major player, has become even more of a threat dollar against the euro. since apparel and textile quotas were dropped among World The Europeans have been hurt by a dollar that has lost Trade Organization members on Jan. 1. almost 20 percent of its value during the last two years Milgrom noted that the least expensive textiles from compared with the euro. This has made European textiles Europe cost about 3 euros, or $3.92 at current exchange, a more expensive to U.S. buyers. meter, while China sells fabrics for about one-third that price. Turkish manufacturers, meanwhile, take the Asian “A mill that would have shipped goods at 3.50 euros now approach to textiles and price their goods in dollars. Their has to chance some real competition from China,” he said. strategy — bridging the gap between Europe and Asia by “There will be an effect for sure, but I’m not concerned that offering European styling and quality at Far Eastern China will ever replace Europe as a resource [with] the prices — reflects their geopolitical position. capability to finish, show flexibility and follow the trends The currency dynamic isn’t expected to change anytime as closely.” soon. On Monday, 1 euro was equivalent to about $1.31. Douglas Seeley, a sales agent for European mills, said, “The U.S. is running an enormous trade deficit and “If you’re a European agent, the dollar is what you’re that’s going to keep downward pressure on the dollar,” said scared of more than anything else. The quota situation David Wyss, chief economist at Standard & Poor’s rating doesn’t really affect me so much because my fabrics are service. “Basically, Europe has to adjust to the fact that, if higher priced and my customer base is on a higher level.” the U.S. eliminated its trade deficit, [the Europeans] would For some large retailers, such as Limited or Federated have to eliminate their trade surplus. It’s going to be a lot Department Stores, the prices in Europe might become tougher for European manufacturing going forward.” prohibitive, said Seeley. Part of the problem comes from the Chinese economic “All the European mills are very afraid for the biggest policy of pegging its currency, the yuan, to the dollar at a customers they’re going to be losing because of the fixed rate. exchange rate,” he said. “The whole burden of adjustment has been pushed Some mills are developing less-expensive products, onto the U.S.-Euro exchange rate,” said Wyss, who said Seeley, who added there is only so much that can be predicted that the dollar would lose another 10 percent of done while maintaining the novel aspects of many of the its value against the euro this year. fabrics. “The euro is killing the European mills,” said Charles As European mills gird themselves for a prolonged Milgrom, a Toronto-based sales agent who represents currency crunch, Turkish mills are working to sharpen European mills. “The trends are wonderful, the potential their offerings to keep their new customers. is huge, the customer reaction to the trends and paths that For the 12 months ended in October, Turkey shipped $135.8 are being taken by the mills are very positive, but they’re million worth of fabrics into the U.S., a 5.1 percent increase not able to move because of the currency situation. It’s that gave it 2.4 percent of the U.S. fabric import market. forcing people to buy and consider secondary resourcing Over the same period, 12 European countries sold $1.13 Buyers at next week’s textile shows will need to consider the in cases where they would normally run to Europe.” billion worth of fabric to U.S. firms, a rise of 2.3 percent, effect of the weak dollar on their orders. WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 13 New York WWW.WWD.COM Te x t i le Trade

Shows he said last week at the company’s 1333 Broadway office, which China’s Chartkar Opens in New York opened Jan. 3. “U.S. companies will want to buy garment packages, The Turkish Fashion so our goal is to do everything so that we can be a one-stop shop.” Fabric Exhibition NEW YORK — Moving to boost its position in the U.S. market, the Chartkar sells more than $150 million of fabric a year, made in Jan. 18-19 Chinese textile maker Chartkar International (Holding) Ltd. has its four Chinese factories in Shandong, Fujian and Hubei Grand Hyatt Hotel opened a Garment District office and is planning a major expan- provinces, and at more than 100 mills with which the company has 109 East 42nd Street sion of its Shandong manufacturing facility. strategic alliances. The company is currently doubling the capaci- The mill, headquartered in Hong Kong, named Simon Kwong to ty of its Shandong textile plant, which will produce up to 100 mil- the new post of managing director of global sourcing, merchandis- lion yards of fabric a year when the expansion is complete. Innovation Asia ing and sales. The firm currently employs about 3,500 people worldwide. Jan. 18-20 Kwong’s responsibilities include overseeing the company’s Kwong, who spent the last eight years as a vice president at Amuse development of a garment business. Chartkar plans to open an Cameron Industries and earlier in his career worked at Shamash 110 West 18th Street apparel manufacturing plant employing 3,000 people in Shandong & Sons, said he believes that having a presence in the U.S. will by early next year, and in the meantime is contracting with inde- become more critical for Chinese firms as competition intensifies European Preview pendent factories to produce garments for U.S. customers. in the post-quota environment. Jan. 19-20 He said the changes reflect shifts in the market the company “You know who you’re dealing with,” when doing business with expects to accelerate now that the 148 nations of the World Trade local staff, he said. “You’re not just sending a package overseas. You Metropolitan Pavilion Organization have dropped quotas on textiles and apparel. don’t have to wait 24 hours to get a reply when you have a question.” 125 West 18th Street “This is the future. Now U.S. companies will go directly to mills,” — Scott Malone giving the bloc 20.3 percent of the import market. “We’re having our best year ever due to the fact that we have a The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ / Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte - France > Wednesday 9 March 2005: exclusively reserved for full-time Italian designer for our pre-registered buyers / from Thursday 10 to Saturday 12 March 2005: open to buyers and visitors / PREMIÈRE VISION - C/O FRANCE LIGNE Inc. - 132 East mill that really increased our Putnam Avenue - Greenwich - Cos Cob CT - 06807 USA / Tel.: (1) 203.861.2082 / Fax: (1) 203.629.9157 / E-mail: [email protected] / presence in the market,” said Okan www.premierevision.fr Toklucu, vice president of textiles at Altinyildiz, a vertical mill and garment producer in Turkey that specializes in wool and spandex blends and tailored garments. “Turkey is half in Asia and half in Europe, but we consider ourselves European,” said Toklucu. “It’s depending on the mills and the factories how they want to be perceived. We always try to upgrade our facility and basically become the benchmark in Turkey of quality goods.” The mill’s specialties play into current trends, which lean toward dressier looks. Still, it is not just the fashions that are helping the firm. “One of the reasons why business has increased is because of the euro [exchange with the dollar],” said Toklucu. “A lot of people are looking to us as an alternative to Italian wool providers.” Those buyers, he estimated, find prices about 20 percent lower than European fabrics at Altinyildiz, which also can do some volume programs given its capacity to produce up to 10 million meters of fabric annually. unique / collective / different / multiple / lively Turkey has other advantages, as well. inspired-people.org “There’s more production being done now in Eastern Europe and in the Middle East — for instance, Jordan,” said Bob Caplan, senior adviser to Turkish textile firm Bossa, a vertical producer of polyester and rayon blends, denim and woven fabric. “That positions us geographically in a very desirable area from a logistical standpoint, and everyone is concerned about logistics when it comes to sourcing products. A lot of production has moved away from Italy. There’s a middle ground before going to the Far East, and that would be Turkey.” Despite this, Turkey still is working to firmly establish its image in the marketplace. “The challenge is to continue to market Turkey as a resource for the apparel industry that other locations have had a foothold on for a long time,” said Caplan. “Overall, Turkey as a market is right now at a crossroads where they can really leap into a very strong position for building a very large base in supplying both fabrics and - Photo : Siegfried Marque garments. We need to continue to make people aware of Turkey as a headquarters. I really think that N° 0121 / yep Turkey could become what Italy has been in the developmental process of quality fabrics.” ADVERTISEMENT I-TexStyle to Showcase Sixty-three of Italy’s top weavers from Como, Biella robes and wrap-around skirts. Stretch hemp and linen are perfect for rich casual jackets. Fine quality plain and Prato will showcase their Spring/Summer 2006 combine vintage with new technology for a fresh weaves in wool/linen have surfaces with irregular relief. pre-collections at European Preview in New York country look, and semi-finished articles with innovative Lurex is found in eveningwear looks and in more January 19-20, 2005 under the I-TexStyle banner. The seamless technology are inspired by a mix and match basic constructions. Wool/acetate blends based on show was launched by the Italian Trade Commission in of sportswear and street style. jacquard tie motifs have geometric and optical effects 2001 as part of Italia: Life in I-Style. “Prices will be in line with last year, except for some that add depth, and micro wool/linen and bengaline “Thank to the rising demand for luxury products in items such as the wrinkled aspects, which will be more also are key looks. Herringbones continue with the U.S., sales of textiles and yarns to North America expensive,” commented Federico Boselli, president and enlarged patterns. Tricotine and diagonals offer a increased about 17 percent for the period January- lighter look and shiny/dull effects are found on faille October 2004,” reported Roberto Luongo, executive and twill grounds. Prince of Wales and patchwork director, Italian Trade Commission, New York. “Our creativity, color and fantasy – qualities work on a smaller scale, while color themes “The U.S. market remains of strategic importance for always up-to-date – make it possible are classic: navy blue and blue marine mixed with the Italian mills. Our commitment to support them is for American customers, who are brighter flames; black; grey melange; mouline tone-on- as strong as ever.” tone in grey, sky blue, beige/camel, sage green; tobacco, “Our Spring/Summer 2006 collection is based on a sophisticated and demanding, lobster, dark brown; metal blue, also in lighter variety of designs, from stripes made with contrasting to appreciate our products.” tonalities; pastels and soft deviations; and fresh styles of bright/dull to ethnic/country looks, to nuances of khaki green and slight mouline effects. multi-color checks of rough Indian inspiration, where the Clean surfaces, microstructures and metallic yarns colors’ energy dominates the foreground. Color is the – Paolo Zegna continue, while shantung, jacquards, multi-layer effects, absolute protagonist and the collection is comprised of President,SMI double faces, high-density fabrics and natural aspects various chromatic themes,” said Piero Picchi, president, are the most important trends from Gruppocinque. Picchi Mills. managing director of Marioboselli. “The U.S. market is Man-made yarns have a natural touch at the company The simplicity and pureness of whites range from going very well right now. Of course, with the increase and blend with silk, cotton and linen. There is wide optic to milk to ecru and rope, Picchi noted.The contrasts in value of the euro in comparison to the U.S. dollar, development of yarn dyes in dusty and natural colors between whites and colors are reminiscent of a cruise some decrease in sales might come. for clean surfaces and small structures mixed with style from the ’50s, and the serenity of nature is “We are also launching a new menswear jersey fruity shades for a range of dynamic fabrics. Light and achieved through a relaxing assortment of greens. The collection based on ‘classic materials’ like linen and dark earthy shades will provide a more ethnic feel, and fragrance of India, from curry to paprika, turquoise to mercerized cotton, but presented with unusual floral and African motifs become bigger, while golf and fuchsia, offers a sensual retro feel. Earth and sand tones weights and weaves.” beachwear patterns are small and chic. “Consumers are lit up with new acidic yellows, and convey a sense of Taiana Virglio is focused on four different themes: will continue to seek more expensive materials, a trend safety. The euphoria of the ’60s is conveyed in a range Sorbet with soft fresh colors; Rich with strong and confirmed in 2004. Regarding general fashion directions, of very light pinks to yellows and greens. sophisticated colors with an Indian flair; Silk and Co., it’s a big, undefined melting pot,” noted Franco Clerici, At Linea Tessile Italiana,the major emphasis is on the return of silk and silky aspects for trendy citywear; U.S. export manager for Gruppocinque. natural fibers, especially silk, linens and blends. Ten and Combo Print, which includes different techniques color themes, each very dense and bright, were of prints on jacquard, stripe, filcoupe and check base developed for mixing and matching. Prints, jacquards cloths,” noted Claudio Taiana, president. The most “We create personalized collections and embroideries have an Indian influence with an important materials will be silk, cotton and technical for our customers in the same way abundance of cachemire designs and floral motifs. fibers, with colors ranging from pastels to brilliants, a suit is tailor-made, so we can Linea Emme will present a variety of watery white with Indian culture, citywear and ethnic influences very hues, greens and blues making for fabrics with a clean apparent in the collection. reflect the customer’s image image, while Indian and ethnic looks are based on “The general fashion direction will be from new and his own consumer base.” beige and khaki tones. classic to casual,” added Taiana. Imta Desii will focus on linen delavé yarn dyed “Consumers continue to seek more expensive materials – Riccardo Marini novelties, linen/cotton, linen/nylon jacquards and that marry quality design and construction. Regarding President,Prato Trade linen/viscose stripes. Creased effects will be important environmental issues, all our machinery and procedures with washed and tumbled finishes, as well as plain are tested according to ISO standards,” he noted. weaves, twills and nets in colors that are very fresh and Tessilcompany will focus on fabrics produced with For Spring/Summer 2006, Teseo reviews some of its not too bright. thick/thin and shining/opaque contrast effects in best basic plain, jacquard and shirting yarn-dyed articles The Marioboselli Jersey collection will be based on yarns. Linen mixes with viscose for more brilliant with special coatings and finishes on nylon, polyester, jacquards and printed fabrics with floral drawings, a bit effects and often is printed, while colors tend to be soft silk, linen and hemp that offer a fresh technological faded and blurred, worked with natural fibers for a and foggy. Jacquards, especially geometrics and optical touch. Very innovative prints are developed on a wide refined country look.There is a return to wrinkled fabrics effects, will be important, with contrasting colors like range of different grounds. Ethnic, floral and figurative and colors will be strong, like oriental spices. black/white and black/fuschia. Ethnic influences patterns mix with rough, natural or brilliant colors, and The firm’s new line, Mediterranea, technically developed inspire accessories like scarves and fringed fabrics. there is a special emphasis on glitter, burn-outs and and styled for more elegant beachwear fashion, takes Tessilstrona revisits the tropical plain weave in 150’s. lacquered effects. prêt-à-porter jersey to the sea. Flowery patterns and Shiny grounds like satin/Venetian/twill are suitable for General fashion directions focus on retro and dressing stripes are presented in cool pastel colors for matching new chic tailoring, while blends of wool/silk and up with strong ethnic and natural influences, with with rouched jacquards and jacquard jersey for beach wool/silk/linen with new structures and 3-D finishings colors in natural/colonial, bright and warm greens,

Crespi 1797 S.p.A. Picchi Filopuro Tessilcompany Luigi Boggio Casero Marioboselli Jersey S.p.A. ADVERTISEMENT I-TEXSTYLE SPRING/SUMMER 2006 PRE-COLLECTIONS AT EUROPEAN PREVIEW ALTMAN BUILDING AND METROPOLITAN PAVILION, 125-135 W. 18TH STREET, NEW YORK, NY Italian Weavers JANUARY 19-20, 2005 Booth # Company Name

yellow, orange and red. “The consumer is choosing For the Spring/Summer 2006 season, new collections A 33 ALCANTARA expensive fabrics, although the quantities are small. For will debut in January 2005 at the I-TexStyle exhibition in B 24 ALLEGRI environmental issues, we take more care for dyeing and New York, featuring innovative products like fancy B 55 BEL & CO printing, as well as for production plants that do not fabrics and special finishings, which are Italy’s true B 41 BISENTINO pollute,” said Adriano Clerici, Teseo. points of distinction, he noted. “We create personalized B 12 BOSSI At Seterie Argenti, “Business is going well on both the collections for our customers in the same way a suit is B 29 BRUGNOLI GIOVANNI East and West Coasts, and is increasing in big chain stores tailor-made, so we can reflect the customer’s image and B 89 CADICA GROUP like Federated and Limited, who are buying significant his own consumer base.” B 45 CAMPORE LANIFICIO quantities,” noted Michele Vigano, U.S. export manager. Regarding economic conditions, “The euro/U.S. dollar B 42 CAVERNI & GRAMIGNI “There is a lot of interest in fancy fabrics like jacquards at exchange rate is having even more serious consequences B 89 COBRA a good price point. Customers are looking for brocades, on the business side than the dumping and lack of B 57 COMPAGNIA TESSILE B 85 CRESPI 1797 matelasse and fancy yarns with Lurex. In fact, they respect of international rules by certain Chinese A 32 CUCCIRELLI contact us for these items,” Vigano reported. companies,” Marini observed. B 47 DI MAZZONE LANIFICIO “Information received from Italian textile companies Italian suppliers continue to stress their trade rights B 70 EFILAN working in the U.S. market show a confirmation of not just within Europe, but also internationally, “so the B 34 EUROPA market share, in spite of the weakness of the dollar and excellence of our products is protected and acknowledged B 50 FEDORA GROUP strength of the euro,” reported Paolo Zegna,president, as a sign of our tradition of beauty, which is intrinsic to B 32 GIEMME Sistema Moda Italiana (SMI). our history as fashion creators.” B 62 GIOTEX FLLI GIORGETTI & C PRATO “The primary reason for this is ‘Made in Italy’s’ ability Light fancies and novelties will be the most important A 11 GRUPPOCINQUE to avoid competition based mainly on prices. Our trends impacting the market, with the addition of a new A 37 GUEST creativity, color and fantasy – always up-to-date – make component: “Etno-Couture”, which includes natural, B 63 IMTA DESII MODA it possible for American customers, who are sophisticated sometimes raw but always refined materials, contended B 46 LANERIE LUIGI BOGGIO CASERO and demanding, to appreciate our products.” Eugenio Boggio-Casero, CEO of Lanerie Luigi Boggio Casero B 49 LANERIE PIERO TONELLA Creativity and innovation are the true value of Italian “Natural materials like linen, cotton, silk and all veg- B 88 LANERIE TEMPESTI B 58 LANIFICIO CECCHI LIDO & FIGLI products, and cannot be easily reproduced, as they are etable fibers will be the focus for Spring/Summer 2006, B 53 LANIFICIO LAMBERTO the result of a centuries-old tradition focused on the with some metallics for special effects. Colors are based B 43 LANIFICIO MARINI & CECCONI concepts of beauty and good taste, Zegna stressed. on whites, ecrus, browns and the important neutrals, B 71 LANIFICIO MARIO BELLUCCI Marini & Riccardo Marini, president of Prato Trade and accented with violets, golden yellows and greens.” B 73 LANIFICIO NENCINI Cecconi , noted special service is still a major advantage Decorative effects will take center stage, through B 60 LANIFICIO REXLANE offered by Italian companies. “Creativity, speed and weave constructions and reliefs in single and multicolors, B 48 LANIFICIO TESSILSTRONA customized service are becoming more and more our he added. ”The luxury image of cloth is very important B 5 LARUSMIANI strengths, and the medium-high market level is definitely for the modern, sophisticated trend in fashion.” B 10 LIMONTA our strategic target.” B 59 LINEA EMME LANIFICIO GIOVANNI MAGNI B 86 LINEA TESSILE ITALIANA B 54 LINEAESSE TESSUTI / LDS B 16 MAJOCCHI TESSITURA B 52 MANTECO New Directions for Spring/Summer 2006 B 28 MARIOBOSELLI JERSEY B 84 MICHELE SOLBIATI SASIL Fabric trends for Spring/Summer 2006 will head in new weapons of seduction,” Dall’Olio explained. B 11 MICROTEX COTTONCLUB new directions, stressing themes like natural resources, “Environmental concerns are everywhere, and new B 72 MILIOR vintage looks, primary colors and touches of glitter, fibers are made from corn, bamboo, algae and soy as we A 5 MIROGLIO according to acclaimed consultants Angelo Uslenghi start to respect our natural resources with sustainable B 56 NOVA FIDES and Andrea Dall’Olio, predicting new styles six months developments and the use of organic cotton,” Dall’Olio B 93 OLMETEX before Moda In and Prato Expo. stressed. B 83 PICCHI - FILOPURO Inspiration will stem from Uslenghi stressed that A 13 PIZVAL B 44 ROSATI society’s emerging quest for “different elements will combine A 10 SERICA DELLA MARCA “normalcy”, asserted Uslenghi, for unique and innovative A 9 SETERIE ARGENTI creative director of Moda In. results. Citywear will borrow B 6 TAIANA VIRGILIO “Words like ‘elegance, charm and trends from distant cultures for B 4 TBM glamour’– used so much in past a ‘Melting Pot Mood’, with A 35 TESEO - TESSITURA SERICA DI OLMEDA seasons – have been replaced by streaked, marled effects on B 87 TESSILCOMPANY ‘ease, nonchalance and well-being’, cotton/linen/nylon, poplin, twill B 51 TESSILGODI while fabrics offer more performance and pique.” Computerized batik B 39 TESSITURA RUDONI LUIGI so they are easy to wear, more looks and photo transfer prints B 40 TEXMODA TESSUTI comfortable and good for travel.” also will emerge, while tribal B 68 UGO PACINI Important fabrics will be cotton, motifs and details from caftans B 69 ULTRA B 64 VASINO / FIL linen, hemp and ‘high-performance’ and saris inspire geometrics. A 18 WEFT wools blended with man-made “Under becomes over,”Uslenghi “Retroscopie” By Andrea Dall’Olio B 35 WONDER fibers. projected, when Egyptian cotton “Our respect for ecology and nature becomes apparent muslins, interlock, Georgette and silky velveteens take with fiber, colors, and treatments inspired by the organic center stage. world. Sophisticated, elaborate prints and over-prints are Rich compositions of cashmere/cotton, silk/hemp and ‘soft’ and discrete while accessories satisfy our increased wool/silk will have a neat, tidy appearance, and egg need for individualism,” Uslenghi added. membrane jersey, doeskin and super-fine wool offer Dall’Olio, creative director of Prato Expo, noted he luxurious simplicity with a soft hand. approaches the new season with enthusiasm for 33 East 67th Street lightened colors and fabrics.“Even when they are compact The Italian Trade Commission will present a preview of New York, NY 10021 Italian Fabric Trends, Spring-Summer 2006, by Angelo Tel: 212/980-1500 and opaque, fabrics have to be feather light. Clean colors Fax: 212/758-1050 are classic, but suggest an atmosphere of well-being.” Uslenghi on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 at the Bryant Park Grill, e-mail: new york@new york.ice.it 25 West 40th St., New York, NY. The presentation will begin www.italtrade.com Following past seasons’ glamorous looks, a more promptly at 5 p.m. To attend, R.S.V.P. by January 14, 2005 to approachable, subtler variety of sexiness will emerge, 212 848-0313. For information, call 212 848-0335. “where old-fashioned manners and politeness become 16 WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 WWW.WWD.COM In Transit Sri Lanka Fears Tsunami’s Economic Impact Continued from page one of Sri Lanka’s exports and lost business would take a heavy toll on the country in a year when the nation needs to rebuild. “It’s time for people to help Sri Lanka,” said Gomi Senadhira, Sri Lanka’s ambassador to the World Trade Organization, in an interview in Geneva. He said the Sri Lankan government plans to ask the U.S. and European Union to drop their duties on his coun- try’s exports of textiles, apparel and footwear. U.S. tariffs average about 17 percent on apparel and EU duties aver- age about 11 percent. Although the tsunami destroyed much along the island’s coast, apparel factories, which are clustered inland, largely with 25 miles of the capital city of Colombo, ex- perienced little damage. However, while their factories were largely unscathed, manufacturers noted that the roads and railroads they rely on for supplies and to ship goods have been battered. That, combined with the threat of growing Chinese competition, could take a heavy toll on the nation of 19.9 million people. Last year, experts projected that Sri Lanka could lose as many as 250,000 of its roughly 330,000 apparel jobs to large competitors like China and India. “There is no doubt that Sri Lanka’s PETER ENDIG/LANDOV PHOTO BY The Dec. 26 tsunami destroyed many railways and roads on the island of Sri Lanka. general economy will need serious sup- port in the medium- to long-term,” said suffered more fatalities — at last count trade official said, “We have received no She said her company is focusing on Kumar Mirchandani, managing director more than 100,000 had died there — they such request. All reconstruction and hu- offering “financial support” to get busi- of Favourite Group, a manufacturer on largely came on the island of Sumatra, manitarian assistance efforts are being ness back on track at a plant in Sri the island that employs 2,000 workers. not Java, where that nation’s apparel in- handled by the State Department.” Lanka. “The apparel industry is Sri Lanka’s dustry is concentrated. The U.S. has earmarked $350 million “It is still difficult to assess in terms of biggest employer and supports over 1 mil- Senadhira said Sri Lanka wants for tsunami relief and deployed thou- what this does to the economy of the lion people directly and indirectly,” Washington and Brussels to lift duties on sands of military personnel and assets, country for the year,” said Martin Trust, Mirchandani said in an e-mail message. apparel made in Sri Lanka of foreign including helicopters, to assist in the president of Brandot International, a “We cannot afford to lose any market fabric. That’s a critical piece of the massive global humanitarian response. Salem, N.H.-based company with invest- share at all, given the overall needs of the equation, since Sri Lanka’s textile indus- According to preliminary estimates, ments in Sri Lankan factories that em- general economy at this tragic time. Any try is minimal and the nation’s garment the tsunami destroyed more than 100,000 ploy 11,000 workers. “The impact of fac- loss of jobs will be devastating and great- makers rely on fabrics imported from off homes on the island, displaced nearly tories not being damaged is good news. ly hamper rehabilitation for both the peo- the island. one million people and caused billions of The fact that so many people have been ple and infrastructure of Sri Lanka.” The U.S. already offers these terms to dollars of damage in core infrastructure. hurt or killed is obviously going to have Sri Lanka, a country the size of West the poorest African nations, while the “The population of the entire country impact on society as a whole.” Virginia, was one of 11 South Asian na- EU provides it to poor countries through is struggling to come to terms with the The port of Colombo reopened the day tions hit by the waves that killed more its “everything but arms” trade regime. magnitude of the loss and the trauma after the tsunami struck, and executives than 150,000 people. Although Indonesia Asked about Sri Lanka’s plans, a U.S. that it has caused,” United Nations said that both air and seaport operations Secretary General Kofi Annan said last had returned to normal. However, many week during his appeal for $977 million roads and railways throughout the coun- to help provide relief until the end of try have been damaged, which is inter- June to the tsunami-hit nations. fering with some shipping. For the year ended in October, Sri Rick Darling, president of Li & Fung Lankan makers shipped $1.51 billion worth USA, said his company’s operations in of apparel and fabric to the U.S., making it the region had experienced only minimal the 21st-ranked supplier. The island nation disruptions. was also among the loudest voices in “From a business standpoint, Sri protesting last year that it was not ready for Lanka factories are operating pretty COUNTRY FOCUS: the lifting of the quota system. close to normal,” he said. “These coun- Mirchandani said the apparel indus- tries are taking a stance that where they try would become even more important can possibly continue as normal, it’s in to Sri Lanka’s economy given the depres- the best interest of the whole economic SRI LANK A sive effect the disaster is expected to recovery process to keep running.” have on tourism and fishing. The bigger question going forward is GDP: $73.7 billion/$3,400 per capita (2004) He said the apparel sector was one of whether Sri Lankan manufacturers will GDP Change: +5.5 percent the few industrial sectors not destroyed continue to remain competitive with Population: 19.9 million by the tsunami. manufacturers in other countries, partic- Unemployment: 8.4 percent “It needs enhanced market access to ularly China and India. U.S. importers Te xtile and apparel exports to the U.S.: $1.51 billion, +0.6 percent the U.S., which is its major market, in acknowledged that the local industry Key products: Cotton pants, cotton woven shirts, man-made fiber coats, man-made order to ensure a continuous flow of ex- faces major hurdles, but said it should be fiber bras. port earnings to cushion the impact of able to compete. Currency: $1 = 99.03 rupees the present crisis,” he said. “We still believe that countries like Major companies: Mast Lanka, Paradigm Group, Favourite Clothing The waves hit on Boxing Day and most Sri Lanka and Indonesia will be able to workers were off for the holiday. It took compete against China for a lot of rea- The island of Sri Lanka is heavily dependent on apparel exports, which, in 2003, about a week for many factories to return sons,” said Peter McGrath, president of represented 63 percent of its shipments abroad. The industry employs more than to full strength while their workers tended purchasing at J.C. Penney Co. “No one 300,000 Sri Lankans and indirectly supports millions more. Following the to their families and traveled back. Local wants to put all their business in China.” devastation caused by the Dec. 26 tsunami, which killed more than 30,000 people sources and importers said few factories Jeanne Atkinson, a consultant who on the island and wiped out many coastal areas, apparel exports will become all had lost many employees to the waves, has worked on apparel-related projects the more critical to Sri Lanka’s economic well-being. Even before the waves, though there were unconfirmed reports in Sri Lanka with the U.S. Agency for though, industry observers were concerned about the future of Sri Lanka’s that at least one plant on the south side of International Development, said she industry. Its apparel manufacturers are heavily dependent on fabrics made the island lost as many as 350 staffers. hoped that U.S. importers would realize abroad, primarily in India. Last year, the International Textile, Garment & Leather Still, even if manufacturers lost few the role their orders could play in the re- Workers’ Union projected that Sri Lanka could lose as many as 250,000 apparel employees, most Sri Lankans lost family building of the devastated country. jobs to competitors in China and elsewhere after the 148 nations of the World members. “The economy really flips back to our Trade Organization dropped their quotas on textiles and apparel. Now that that Carole Hochman, chairman and de- support and the big users,” Atkinson has occurred, and particularly in light of the devastation, Sri Lanka plans to sign director of Carole Hochman Designs said. “The U.S. has the major export dol- petition the U.S. and Europe for preferential trade treatment. Inc., said of a plant from which her com- lars now. That’s where the support has to pany buys, “We lost two people, but 50 come. It’s going to be devastating unless NOTES: IMPORT DATA IS FOR THE YEAR ENDED OCT. 31, COMPARED WITH THE PRIOR-YEAR PERIOD; UNEMPLOYMENT FIGURES ARE FOR PRIOR TO people at the factory lost many immedi- U.S. companies just hang in there.” THE DEC. 26 TSUNAMI. SOURCES: CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, U.S. COMMERCE DEPARTMENT, OANDA.COM ate relatives, husbands, brothers…It’s —With contributions from been absolutely devastating.” Karyn Monget Trendsetting takes vision.

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The exterior of Bund 18 (left), where Cartier opened in November (inset) and Zegna will open in April. Caption Goes Here By Lisa Movius the Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China in Road than Three on the Bund, currently the only other 1923. With painstaking attention to detail, Gabbiani, of complex opened on the Bund, which is home to an SHANGHAI — The world’s luxury brands have a new Venice-based Kokaistudios, dove into the historical Armani flagship, opened last April. venue here in which to open up shop. archives and flew in teams of experts to roll back years While a popular destination and a prestigious Bund 18, which launched in November, is the latest of wear and neglect. “We believe that the commercial- Shanghai address, the Bund does brisker business in retail destination both in Shanghai and along the city’s ization of historic buildings is not opposed to preserva- tourist trinkets for low-budget Chinese visitors than in historic waterfront, the Bund. It’s also further proof tion,” said Sylvia Lee, the project’s chief marketing offi- high-end apparel. Both Bund 18 and its tenants, though, that, between its rising international profile, liberaliz- cer. “From the beginning, we had the vision of merging focus on the development potential of the famous water- ing markets and growing coterie of new rich, the east- proper renovation with increasing commercial value.” front. “The Bund is like a stage, for Shanghai, and for ern Chinese municipality of Shanghai is attracting ever- Lee said the investment to date totals $14 million. Of the whole of China,” explained Lee. “Brands are setting more luxury labels. Scores of retail outlets, including that, 15 to 20 percent went into the restoration and inte- up here, not just for financial return, but to raise the many a massive flagship, have opened in the past year, rior design of the facility, and 70 percent on mechanical prestige of their brand. It is not a mature shopping dis- with many more planned, and high-end malls and bou- equipment. The company expects to take seven years to trict yet, but it will be in the long term. However, the tiques are cropping up to meet the demand. recoup the initial investment. The company itself will property is limited, and the brands have to get in now.” Mostly constructed in the Twenties and Thirties by only operate a ground-floor cafe plus the Bund 18 Cartier’s Chien echoed her sentiments: “Bund 18’s Western banks and trading companies, the Bund — the Creative Centre, an 8,000-square-foot space on the commercial prospects are long term, as the shopping curve of neoclassical structures — along the banks fourth floor that will host art exhibitions organized environment is not yet mature, it’s mostly tourists. But of the Huangpu River remains Shanghai’s by the company’s foundation, starting with we foresee it will mature in a few years.” She cited gov- signature cityscape. After decades of a show in cooperation with London’s ernment plans to turn the Bund into a luxury walking neglect under communism, the area Victoria and Albert Museum in April street in two or three years. While Cartier’s Plaza 66 remains mostly a tourist destina- as well as commercial events and store has sales exceeding 5 million renminbi, or tion, and has been slow to devel- parties. It has already played $603,000 at current exchange, a month, she expects the op the sort of consumer activi- host to a Dior show, a Bund 18 figures to start below that. ty that has emerged in the Swarovski exhibition and a “It’ll be more walking than luxury; no one ever goes downtown areas and across Chivas launch. The project into these stores,” countered Paul French, a director of the river in the Pudong derives 90 percent of its in- business consultancy Access Asia. New Area. The seven- come from rent. Tenant French contended the challenge for outlets on the story Bund 18 complex is contracts range from Bund is not low consumer traffic — a problem shared already home to two three to five years. even on the brand-bedecked Nanjing West Road — as restaurants, a bar and The main tenants so much as exorbitant rents. A widely cited South China Cartier’s China flagship, far are Cartier, which Morning Post article reported that Zegna is paying and once fully open, by launched a 2,500-square- 100,000 renminbi, or $12,078, a day for its forthcoming April will add several foot store there in Bund 18 store. “There are no customers, either way; it’s other luxury shops, a cafe December, and Zegna, all about the rents, which are phenomenally more than and an exhibition space. which will soft open a they should be. They aren’t going to clear it; it cannot be The latest version of massive three-story, done.These rents are much more than comparable Bund 18 had its beginnings 21,000-square-foot flagship places in London and New York,” said French. in late 2001 in Hong Kong, — its largest in Asia — at the Bund rental prices, he said, contrast with the when managing director end of this month, with a Nanjing West Road malls, which have lured brands in Janette Chang and some grand opening in April. with cut rates. “At Plaza 66, the stores aren’t paying any- Shanghainese friends were Boucheron will open an outlet in thing, just a service charge, because they want the luxu- lamenting the shoddy renovations April or May, and five other high- ry brands in there at the street level. It’s cheaper than a of the city’s historic prewar architec- end boutiques — Bund 18 declined to billboard — those you have to queue up for; just stick in ture. Chang’s friends challenged her to do identify which brands, as details are still some purses and some girls. It’s good for the brands, something about it, and in February 2002, she being finalized — will open in February. The free advertising plus a Shanghai store, they don’t care if started looking at spaces offered by Jinsi Holding Co., fifth floor is home to Chinese restaurant Tan Wai Lou, anyone ever goes into them.” the government agency that manages Bund properties. the seventh to the DJ-driven Bar Rouge and the sixth to “Luxury brands cannot be afforded by most Chinese, Chang and the Italian architect Filippo Gabbiani select- French restaurant Sens & Bund, run by Jacques and but are desired by them,” asserted Bund 18’s Lee, “so ed number 18. After submitting extensive proposals to Laurent Pourcel. The restaurant is the first in China there’s great growth potential.” The brands are counting convince the government, cautious with the highly limit- managed by Michelin-rated chefs. on that, despite the many stores that stand empty apart ed and much-desired Bund properties, a 20-year lease The Cartier store marks the company’s second in from their armies of attendants. Regardless of how sales was signed in November 2002. Shanghai, after one opened in May 2001 in Nanjing fare, their ambitious expansion plans and optimistic Bund 18 Real Estate Development Ltd., the parent West Road’s Plaza 66, one of the city’s largest luxury China projections suggest that projects such as Bund 18 company for the project, derives its investment not from brand malls, and its eighth and largest in Mainland that cater to incoming international brands, no matter the usual real estate speculators but from Hong Kong China. Cartier plans to launch another seven stores in how high the rents, stand to do well. Union Way Holdings, a commodity firm, and First China this year. Cartier’s general manager for China French maintained that luxury brands shoot them- Federal Banking Co. Both have shareholders interested Josephine Chien said the company wanted a store in selves in the foot by overexpanding. “The market is ac- in historic preservation, and were motivated by Bund the area because “the Bund is the mark of Shanghai tually getting smaller, because they’re opening stores in 18’s unprecedented — for Shanghai — ambition to au- now because of the old buildings, and it has become a second-tier towns like Dalian and Shenyang, so the rich thentically restore an historic building for commercial tourist spot, and all the luxury brands are looking to people there who used to fly to Shanghai to buy these use. Most of the other commercial projects in historic open places there.” products now have it as much there as here.” Shanghai buildings, such as Xintiandi and the neighbor- Other luxury complexes are scheduled to open on Regular buyers are more likely to head to Hong ing Three on the Bund, totally gutted or even demol- the Bund over the next few years, including a branch of Kong, where they can avoid the 15 percent luxury im- ished and rebuilt the original structure, but Bund 18 Hong Kong’s Peninsula Hotel on nearby Beijing East port tax imposed on the Mainland. The government also has returned the building to much of its original form. Road, and Louis Vuitton has plans for a store in the his- is floating the possibility of levying an additional 5 per- Designed by the British architectural firm Palmer & toric Peace Hotel. Cartier chose Bund 18 over its com- cent luxury tax. “The brands have spread out their cus- Turner, also behind many other of the Bund’s land- petitors because of its launch date and location, nearer tomer base,” said French. “They have a hard slog ahead, marks, Bund 18 was built as the China headquarters for to the heavily trafficked tourist stretch of Nanjing East but will keep at it.” Or, you can go with us.

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Erica Carolina Courtney Herrera and Cary MEMO PAD Menard STAR WARS: Poaching is a two-way street. After losing several staffers to Life & Style, Bauer Publishing’s new celebrity weekly, Star, has struck back, hiring away West Coast bureau chief Mark Coleman to serve as news director. Coleman, who also did a stint at In Touch, will continue to be based in Los Angeles. Star’s previous news director, ex-Fox News booker Eric Spinato, was based in New York; he left in July. Roberto Faraone Mennella, Aida In other Star news, editorial director Bonnie Fuller said the Turturro and Amedeo Scognamiglio. magazine’s recent double issue on the “50 Most Annoying People” sold close to a million copies on the newsstand despite a jacked-up cover price of $3.99 (versus $3.29 for regular issues). Fuller claimed nobody bristled at being named one of the world’s most irritating celebrities, insisting, “It was really done with affection.” (Paris Hilton and Britney Spears tied for number one.) And if there were any hurt feelings, Fuller can smooth things over by including the offended parties in her next double issue, “50 Sexist Stars,” coming in March. And no doubt she will. — Jeff Bercovici Hyde Park Jewelers president Michael Pollak, Shereen Pollak DOING THE RIGHT THING: At last, a An image from Magnum and Stanislas de Quercize. Photos’ archive. billboard that wants to get into your head rather than your wallet. David and On Monday, Jan. 17, the billboard Sybil Yurman on Manhattan’s Port Authority building at 42nd Street and Eighth Avenue will display a stream of civil rights-themed images in honor of Martin Luther King Jr.’s birthday. The display will be programmed by filmmaker Spike Lee and his brother, photographer David Lee, as part of Mayfair an ongoing virtual photo exhibition Mayfair Jewelers sponsored by SmartSign Media co-president and drawing on Magnum Photos’ archives. The exhibition began Lauren Jan. 1 and will run through the end of the month. “We want to do Daniel Lalonde and Stacie Orloff Temple St. Clair Kulchinsky. our part to honor the legacy of Dr. King,” Spike and David Lee said PHOTOS STEVE EICHNER BY in a statement. “Great visionaries never go out of style, and his mission is as important today as it ever was.” — J.B. A Shining Moment for the Gem Crowd SUPE-ING IT UP:Cindy Crawford is back — on the cover of British NEW YORK — Sly and the Family Stone would have “Jewelry is just so attractive,” said Carolina Vogue’s February issue, which hit enjoyed Friday night’s Gem Awards gala — it felt like Herrera, who presented Rubenstein with the award. the newsstands this week. a real family affair. The mood was jovial, and jewel- When asked if she was considering launching jewel- ry executives spent the evening with cheek-to-cheek ry, Herrera said, “Why not? I think there’s a lot of Crawford is decked out in full-and- greetings and Bellini toasts to solid holiday sales competition, though. People go to the big houses to gaudy Eighties glory in a photo and hopes for an even more successful 2005. buy their jewelry. I should probably stick to dresses.” shoot by Nick Knight. “Over the “It’s like a big bar mitzvah,” gushed Cartier presi- Deborah Norville was the evening’s mistress of cer- past months, we’ve been looking at dent and chief executive officer Stanislas de emonies, and revelers included David Yurman, LVMH different women of different ages, Quercize. Watch & Jewelry president and ceo Daniel Lalonde, and her name came up. So we “We had a good year,” added Corum president Rolex president and ceo Walter Fisher, Movado Group Stacie Orloff. “This year’s resolution is to keep having president and ceo Efraim Grinberg, Fortunoff Fine thought we’d take a look at Cindy fun and to keep those retailer’s good margins.” Jewelry and Silverware president Helene Fortunoff — 20 years on,” said Alexandra Now in its third year, the Gem Awards gala, held and designers Temple St. Clair and Erica Courtney. Shulman, editor of British Vogue. British Vogue’s February cover. at Cipriani 42nd Street here, is presented by the Actress Aida Turturro arrived with Faraone “And with the Eighties pinup looks Jewelry Information Center. This year’s Lifetime Mennella designers Roberto Faraone Mennella and we were shooting, it made sense in every way.” Inside, Crawford Achievement Award was bestowed upon Herbert M. Amedeo Scognamiglio, whom she befriended on a reveals some of her secrets in the magazine’s Style File section. Bridge and Robert L. Bridge, co-chairmen of Ben recent flight to Italy. “Now we are like family,” she While her legs may still be muscle-bound and lean, she’s given up Bridge Jeweler in Seattle. Roberta Myers, Elle maga- explained, showing off the designers’ earrings. “And zine’s editor in chief, picked up the Consumer Media I don’t really like modern jewelry. I prefer antique-y mini skirts — though not for good. “I’m 38 and if I wear a mini, it’s Award, and Hal Rubenstein, In Style’s fashion direc- stuff. But they’re different.” only on the beach.” — Samantha Conti tor, took home the Excellence in Style Award. — Marc Karimzadeh Rebuilding takes time and a helping hand.

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American Red Cross UNICEF USA Disaster Relief Fund Tsunami Relief Effort PO Box 37243, Washington, DC 20013 333 East 38th Street, New York, NY 10016 1-800-HELP-NOW (1-800-435-7669) 1-800-4UNICEF (1-800-486-4233) http://www.redcross.org http://www.unicefusa.org 22 WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 WWW.WWD.COM

capitalize on a greater number of It’s these procedures Skin Resur- men seeking facial services these facing Scrub and Skin Revitalizer days, according to Robin Mason, will attempt to emulate. Aramis Adds to Lab Series Line vice president of global market- Matthew Teri, vice president ing for Aramis and Designer of corporate product innovation By Matthew W. Evans cone-based formulation that’s and Skin Revitalizer will hit Fragrances. But, Skin Resurfac- for Lauder, said the scrub’s heat designed to have a “velvety” feel, 1,800 U.S. doors in April, the pair ing Scrub is meant to yield bene- and penetration foster an envi- NEW YORK — Aramis Inc. is according to Aramis and Lauder of introductions will be rolled fits of salon or spa-based facial ronment conducive to healthier turning up the heat on its Lab executives. In an encapsulated out internationally to Lab Series’ services at home. It will be of- skin cell renewal. He added that Series for Men line with the state, the calcium chloride com- 5,500 doors in 60 countries in fered as an alternative to at- Skin Revitalizer prolongs the ex- April launch of a thermodynam- plex works to exfoliate, as well. May. Globally, the products could home microdermabrasion kits foliative benefits of Skin Resur- ic scrub and a moisturizer. Microcrystals rupture when the now on the market. facing Scrub, while soothing and The Estée Lauder Cos.-owned scrub touches water and that’s “Men are becoming acutely calming the skin and diminishing men’s treatment collection will when things heat up. Also, Skin aware of skin care needs,” Mason lines, wrinkles and pore size. launch Skin Resurfacing Scrub, Resurfacing Scrub contains a BEAUTY BEAT added. “With that, there’s been a Meanwhile, Skin Revitalizer a facial skin care item that heats secondary exfoliating vehicle: boom in [men’s] facials. Micro- “keeps oily parts matte and hy- the skin, a process designed to smaller, so-called “microparti- ring up combined retail sales in dermabrasion and chemical peels drates dry skin,” said Teri. open the pores for cleansing. cles” that “polish” the skin. excess of $5 million in their first are becoming more prominent.” The two additions bring the The thermal sensation comes Skin Resurfacing Scrub will year on the market. Roughly 65 Citing figures from the Ameri- Lab Series for Men assortment, from a concentration of calcium be launched in conjunction with percent of Lab Series sales are can Society for Aesthetic Plastic a nearly $50 million global busi- chloride complex that Lab Ser- Skin Revitalizer, a facial mois- generated internationally, while Surgery, Mason said there was a ness, up to 22 items in the U.S. ies research has deemed not too turizer that’s designed as a com- the U.S. accounts for the remain- 34 percent increase in the number As many as 42 stockkeeping hot and not too cold. panion product to the scrub. der of revenues. of nonsurgical procedures done units are carried in global mar- The scrub is a water-free sili- While Skin Resurfacing Scrub The initiative is an attempt to on men between 2002 and 2003. kets, which include the U.K., Germany, Spain, Japan, Korea and Hong Kong. Skin Resurfacing Scrub and Skin Revitalizer will be backed by a worldwide sampling cam- paign consisting of 500,000 dual packette samples. A national print advertising effort in maga- zines such as GQ, Men’s Health, Maxim and Out will comprise vi- suals of the two products togeth- er. About $1 million reportedly will be spent to support the items in their first year. Also, in-store demonstrations will be conducted in key Lab Series doors. “They need to be demonstrated to see what they do,” Mason said of the products. Avon Names Smith EVP NEW YORK — Avon Products Inc. has recruited former Kraft Foods executive Elizabeth A. Smith for the newly created po- sition of executive vice presi- dent and brand president. In her new role, Smith will manage the direct seller’s worldwide brand and product categories. She also will oversee all of Avon’s global brand and marketing functions, as the company continues to ex- plore growth opportunities abroad. Smith will report to Avon chairman and chief execu- tive officer Andrea Jung and will receive a compensation package of $4 million, according to a U.S. Securities and Exchange filing. Prior to joining Avon, Smith held several marketing positions at Kraft Foods during her 14- year tenure there, including president of U.S. beverages and grocery sectors. Parlux Buys XOXO License FORT LAUDERDALE, Fla. — ATMOSPHÈRE D’HIVER Parlux Fragrances Inc. has ac- quired the worldwide licensing THE MEETING PLACE rights for XOXO fragrances from Victory International (USA) LLC FOR FASHION AND — just in time for the spring ACCESSORIES DESIGNERS launch of an XOXO scent. The buy includes inventories, molds, designs and other assets related to the XOXO fragrance brand, which Parlux will manufacture and distribute as a result of the acquisition. “XOXO will in- crease our presence in depart- ment and specialty stores and provide us with important economies of scale,” stated Ilia FALL WINTER 2005/2006 Lekach, Parlux chairman and chief executive. To bolster its JANUARY 28-31, 2005 portfolio of more mature fra- PARIS EXPO - PORTE DE VERSAILLES - HALL 7 grance brands — such as Perry MARCH 4-7, 2005 Ellis, Ocean Pacific and Guess JARDIN DES TUILERIES - TERRASSES DES FEUILLANTS PRÊT — Parlux went on a veritable HÔTEL SAINT-JAMES & ALBANY - 202, rue de Rivoli - 75001 Paris À fragrance deal-signing binge in www.pretparis.com Tel: +33 (0) 1 44 94 70 00 PORTER 2004, one that included names

KX Associates Annik Klein Tel: (+1) 212 925 2507 email: [email protected] PAR IS ad & design D.I.V.A. such as Paris Hilton and tennis stars Maria Sharapova and Andy Roddick. WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 23 WWW.WWD.COM

and return the Trouble products,” said Holt. some monkey business. In a complaint filed on Dec. 31 Meanwhile, it’s been a busy holiday season on the in Manhattan federal court, New York-based GMA legal front for rap star Jay-Z’s Rocawear apparel, as the Accessories Inc. accused DML Marketing and company has moved against several New York- and New Bloomingdale’s of selling socks bearing GMA’s copy- Jersey-based retailers allegedly using the Rocawear righted monkey design. According to the complaint, trademarks on apparel and accessories. GMA Accessories has held the rights to its Fuzzy In early December, ROC Apparel Group LLC and Monkey design since 2002, and has been the “sole right- Rocawear Licensing LLC, represented by Manhattan law ful designer and seller of socks or other items” bearing NEW YORK — YSL Beauté has notified a Georgia feder- firm Tucker & Latifi LLP, filed suit against New Classic the design since that time. According to the complaint, al court of its compliance with a preliminary injunction Inc., a Long Island City, N.Y.-based retailer. According to Bloomingdale’s has sold the knockoffs, which it pur- barring further sales of Boucheron’s Trouble fragrance. the suit, New Classic manufactured and sold belts be- chased from DML Marketing, since Dec. 2004. In a compliance report dated Dec. 20, Charlene Holt, lieved to be “a copy of the Rocawear mark, or a mark A spokeswoman for Bloomingdale’s said the compa- vice president of sales for YSL’s Parfums Classiques di- confusingly similar thereto.” ny would not comment on pending legal matters. vision, said the company directed its U.S. distribution New Classic did not return a call seeking comment. “Our client bought the product from a company in center to cease all shipments and cancel any existing Rocawear filed a separate but similar lawsuit on Jan. Asia that had made it up,” said DML’s lawyer Mitchell orders on Dec 6. Holt also noted that, “in an attempt to 4 against Staten Island-based Classic Marketing NY Ltd. N. Reinis of Silver & Freedman, based in Los Angeles. mitigate damages,” customers such as Nordstrom, Saks and Spot Inc., located in North Bergen, N.J., alleging “These are not identical, they are just similar mon- Fifth Avenue and Dillard’s were given the option of open- apparel-related trademark infringement. keys,” said Reinis, who also said that the Asian manu- ing the packaging and selling the perfume without the Classic Marketing and Spot Inc. could not be reached facturer would not have had access to GMA’s design to cap, whose three-dimensional snake design is the focus for comment. copy. of the lawsuit brought by Roberto Cavalli manufacturer Both lawsuits noted that the Rocawear apparel line — Ross Tucker ITF SpA. “It appears that most of Boucheron’s cus- had generated sales of more than $80 million in the 18 tomers have refused to sell the product in an opened months since being introduced to the market. Editor’s Note: Legal Briefs is a new feature that will box, and therefore have decided to pull it from stores For Bloomingdale’s, the New Year kicked off with appear regularly in WWD.

De La Fressange Court Decision PARIS — The house of Ines de la Fressange said an appeals court here has given it back the rights to the brand of its name- sake founder. The ruling overturns a verdict last September reinstating to de la Fressange, a former Chanel model and designer, the rights to her name, the house said. “The appeals court has re- The World’s Largest Garment and Textile Sourcing Show jected Madame Ines de la Fres- sange’s demand to nullify the agreement by which she sold the brand carrying her name,” the company said in a statement. But de la Fressange’s legal counsel, the Paris law firm of Kiejman & Marembert, touted the ruling, too. It contended it gives de la Fressange control of her name in “domains such as cloth- ing, accessories and fragrance.” It added that de la Fressange had “redeposited [the rights for] Sands Expo | Venetian, Las Vegas, NV the brands of which she is again the owner.” François Louis Vuitton, who owns a 49 percent majority of the FEBRUARY 14 - 17, 2005 house, said the categories the court had given de la Fressange were “inconsequential” and “no Our Exhibitors currently produce for: longer made” by the house. “The company has the right to continue using the name,” he said. GAP, Perry Ellis, Land’s End, Liz Claiborne, Sears, JCPenney, Target, Levi Strauss, Nordstroms, Sara Lee, Limited, Vanity Fair, Costco, Saks 5th Avenue, Jockey, Still, Vuitton added the firm Dickies, Calvin Klein, Timberland, Nike, Puma, Polo Ralph Lauren, Philips Van Heusen, Nautica, Tommy Hilfiger, Fruit of the Loom, Fila, Quiksilver, BCBG would seek a ruling in France’s MaxMara, Sean John, Hang Ten, Guess Inc. highest court to end de la Fres- sange’s right to those products. The wrangling is the latest twist in a case that began in 1999. That was when Vuitton and the house’s other major sharehold- ers fired de la Fressange, who is now director at the Roger Vivier shoe firm, over claims that she had damaged the house’s image by designing a pillbox. De la Fressange then filed an unfair dismissal suit. In 2002, a Paris court gave her $220,000 in damages. PRE-REGISTER ONLINE NOW But de la Fressange also sought to regain control of her name. She said she found it un- www.asapshow.com palatable to be associated with “inferior” products that the house had created since her departure. Vuitton said the house, which T: 626.636.2530 F: 626.636.2536 E: [email protected] has about 20 licensing agree- ments, had sales of between 1 million and 5 million euros, or Come visit us at our $1.4 million to $6.7 million at current exchange, last year. new home De la Fressange retains a mi- nority 8 percent stake in the Sands Expo/Venetian, Las Vegas house. — Robert Murphy 24 WWD/GLOBAL, JANUARY 2005 WWW.WWD.COM Power of the Perse: Darré: ‘Radical Change’ at Ungaro Plans Retail Rollout By Miles Socha By Sharon Edelson PARIS — Vincent Darré, the new artistic director of Emanuel NEW YORK — James Perse, who gave Ungaro, did not mince words the lowly T-shirt fashion status with when asked if one can expect a his line of body-skimming tops, has a change in direction at the French lot more up his cotton jersey sleeve. fashion house. Perse is expanding his product “Radical change,” he assured line to include beachwear, outerwear during an exclusive preview last and even evening wear, all interpret- week of the pre-fall Emanuel ed with his signature soft hand and Ungaro collection, his first effort easygoing attitude. He’s also opening since succeeding Giambattista two stores in the spring: a 1,000- Valli in October. “I am interested square-foot boutique at 411 Bleecker James in another woman. There’s a lot Street, and an 800-square-foot shop at Perse of tailoring, and more daywear. the Country Mart in Malibu. And it’s perhaps less sexy.” While Perse’s sexy T’s have propelled his company’sJames growthPerse Darré said he aims to refresh and earned Perse the title of T-shirt King, the collection has the company’s couture roots, and evolved to include coats, dresses, skirts, pants and sweaters. the timeless innovation and ele- There’s even a new suiting collection — military-inspired shirt gance that Ungaro achieved when jackets — but they’ll be made of soft, washed garment-died fabrics. he launched the house in 1967. The new product categories will be rolled out in the fall to To wit: Among Darré’s first or- about 200 department and specialty store doors worldwide. ders of business was to plunge Meanwhile, a full line of accessories, including handbags and into the archives to rediscover shoes is in the works. Ungaro’s “incredible prints” and In Malibu, Perse is bringing his sensibility to the surf lifestyle. inimitable tailoring style of the “I ultimately want to create a special idea and special product Sixties and Seventies. line,” he said. “There’s going to be a lot of exclusive pieces carried Most recently a creative con- only in that store.” sultant to Moschino, Darré has The designer studied Manhattan neighborhoods before settling also worked alongside Karl on Bleecker Street in the West Village. Sales at the store are ex- Lagerfeld (at Fendi and Chloé) as pected to be $2,000 per square foot. Perse acknowledged that the es- well as at Yves Saint Laurent, timate is high, but said it’s in line with volume at his 18-month-old Blumarine and Prada. His ap- Melrose Avenue flagship. pointment at Ungaro marks the Since being discovered by big name designers such as Marc

first time the fashion world will STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY Jacobs, who has three stores, and Ralph Lauren, who has two, discover Darré’s design sensibili- Two looks from the Emanuel Ungaro pre-fall collection by Vincent Darré. rents on Bleecker Street have risen from the $80 to $120 per ty solo. So what exactly is it? square foot range to $200 per square foot, according to real es- Darré paused, stiffened in his slim black tuxe- He said the pre-fall collection was partly in- tate brokers. Lauren is said to be seeking more space. Stetson is do jacket, and then offered: “What I think I spired by Fassbinder films and his fetish actresses, opening a store selling fashion hats, silver jewelry and leather brought to Moschino was an elegance that was Ingrid Caven and Hanna Schygulla, who had the wear at 387 Bleecker in the former Four Paws Club, and very Parisian. Here it will be more evident be- style of Hollywood divas “but less decadent and Abercrombie & Fitch is reportedly scouting for space for Ruehl, cause the house is Parisian.” more modern.” That translates into jersey dresses its new retail concept. While enamored of the couture world as depict- with floral chiffon worked into the seams, and a “Bleecker Street has a boutique mentality,” Perse said. “I ed in old movies — and practiced by greats like long black gown decorated haphazardly, as if half- want my store to be in a neighborhood environment. The West Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent and Ungaro — Darré said finished, with bows and pleats. But range is para- Village couldn’t be more perfect. My customer lives there and he harbors no ambitions to do high fashion him- mount, and he said the collection spans all man- there’s an incredible amount of traffic.” self. “That’s another education,” he said. “Today ner of day clothes, including leather and fur gar- “In general downtown has shied away from chain stores,” said we are brought up in the world of ready-to-wear.” ments, as well as handbags and footwear. Christopher Owles, of Sinvin Realty Corp., who represented Perse. Still, he said he is thrilled that Ungaro, cur- “I want to push the accessories and they will “This is right in the heart of the West Village counterculture. It’s rently working on a semi-couture project, is pres- become more important,” he said. one thing to see stores start to go upscale, but chains are a harder ent in the house, and that couture represents a The fashion world will get Darré’s full-strength vi- thing for the neighborhood to swallow. It’s really an area where benchmark ideal that he hopes to instill in the sion come March when he presents his fall-winter you have individual real estate owners that care.” house, to give the brand a more personal allure. collection on the runway during Paris Fashion Week. Moody’s: Wal-Mart Sets Sights on Apparel Growth Doneger’s Team Play BOSTON — Wal-Mart will “set its sights on ap- George is the largest apparel brand by volume, Wal- parel as the next sector to experience major Mart has opened several stand-alone George bou- NEW YORK — In a flurry of executive changes at The Doneger market expansion,” according to a report re- tiques. In the U.S., the brand has coalesced in re- Group, Thomas Burns, senior vice president, will oversee Done- leased Monday by Moody’s Investor Service ana- cent seasons from scattered items to a cleanly mer- ger Creative Services, the firm’s trend and color forecasting divi- lyst Charles O’Shea. The resulting shakeout chandised, trend-right presentation that stands out. sion, while continuing to oversee client servicing, new business “over the next five years could eclipse that in O’Shea predicts Wal-Mart will not hesitate to development and the HDA International division. grocery by a wide margin,” O’Shea wrote. import George design talent to the U.S., to push Creative directors David Wolfe, Pat Tunsky, Chris Gilbert and He put Wal-Mart’s annual apparel volume at $33 the label even further. Jamie Ross, the creative services sales team and the Margit billion. Assuming a 12 percent annual growth rate, “They’ll let the people in the U.S. go as far as Publications division will report to Burns, who will coordinate O’Shea estimated that the world’s biggest retailer the can go and when they hit the proverbial wall, their activities with the merchandising division. may be selling $58 billion worth of clothes by 2010. they will find the best people,” he said. Doneger, a leading buying office and fashion merchandising consulting firm, also announced some additions to the team. Ray Now that they’ve got people in the store, what are Hewins has become director of sales at Doneger Creative Ser- vices, after serving as vice president at eWarna.com. and before “they going to do with them? that spending 16 years at Pantone. Cheryl Nowak has been named merchandise manager for men’s and children’s, after ”— Charles O’Shea, Moody’s Investor Service serving as executive vice president of Boom Club. In other internal shifts, four market specialists were named: “I think there’s a sweet spot right now for O’Shea said the apparel landscape over the Lauren Pestronk for contemporary sportswear; Jonna Wenzel for these guys,” O’Shea said in an interview. next five years becomes a fight for second. He said popular handbags and jewelry and junior accessories; Arta “There’s a lot of noise in the market right now. its “logical” to assume Target Stores Inc., the Isovski for fashion accessories and gifts, and Melissa Galit for Sears’ softlines [business] has not been doing fourth- largest U.S. retailer, is currently the sec- moderate to better handbags and jewelry. Lucia Bernal has be- well, Kohl’s comps have been mostly negative for ond-largest apparel retailer. The combined Sears- come manager of HDA International, succeeding Audrey the past year and a half. There appears to be Kmart, at $55 billion total revenue, should take the Albertal, who left the company. some cannibalization there. It looks to me like crown once merged. Deborah Rudinsky, in addition to her responsibilities as mer- an opportunity” for Wal-Mart. Target Stores recorded $41.3 billion in total chandise manager, will focus on the development of the bridge Wal-Mart has for several years cited apparel sales in fiscal 2003. The Minneapolis-based chain handbag, jewelry and fashion accessory departments. as an area of growth and improvement. It has de- does not publicly release apparel revenues. The Doneger Group has also entered into a relationship with cluttered the department by reducing brand O’Shea said Wal-Mart’s rapid growth with The Design Library, an archive of textile design containing over count and strengthening core franchises such as food sales in its Supercenter format can be con- five million documentary designs including prints, jacquards, Faded Glory, White Stag and No Boundaries. sidered a road map for apparel growth. yarn dyes and original artwork. Doneger clients will have access Most eyes, however, are on the George brand, “They’ve proven they can drive traffic with to the library for projects ranging from initial seasonal planning the proprietary careerwear label developed by food,” he said. “Now that they’ve got people in and development to logo and branding development. The 30- U.K. subsidiary ASDA that’s considered to be a lit- the store, what are they going to do with them? year-old Design Library is headed by Peter Koepke, chief execu- mus test of how fashionable and relevant Wal- Selling apparel is the way to go.” tive officer, and Richard Weissman, president. Mart’s apparel can become. In the U.K., where — Katherine Bowers — David Moin COLOR IN THE CITY

WEATHERPROOF® GARMENT COMPANY SINCE 1948 © 2005, www.weatherproofgarment.com 212.695.7716 © 2005, www.weatherproofgarment.com 26 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 11, 2005

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. CLOSE OUTS PATTERNS, SAMPLES, We Buy Men’s, PRODUCTIONS Women’s & Children’s Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine All Quantities fast work. 212-869-2699. WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY We are nice people to deal with P.S. Large Piece Good Deals Also HBA and General Merchandise. Call Rocky 800-762-5488 CHINA MANUFACTURING Hong Kong/Shenzhen China office Many opportunites available. Fast growing Ladies Apparel WWW.IQTRADINGCO.COM ASSOCIATE Co. seeks detail oriented, DESIGNER/ self motivated & hardworking people for following posi- DESIGNER tions in our NYC office: Small highly respected women’s designer line seeks Shipping Assistant: Profi- Business Wanted someone to work on a diffu- cient in UPS & COD w/light Large apparel conglomerate is looking sion label. Candidate must billing. Assist shipping man- for a 5 to 12 million dollar business to be a detail oriented, highly merge into successful sportswear ager with order entry & divsion. We have offces in China, are organized and motivated in- follow-up w/ various types financialy sound, and listed on the dividual with a classic sensi- of cust inc/major retailers. American Stock Exchange. Respond bility and a passion to join a in confidence by faxing: 201-868-6525 Exp in public whse w/ knowl- high end women’s specialty edge in inventory control. brand. Responsibilities in- AIMS/EDI a plus but will clude creating presentation train. Min 2 yrs exp req. 244 Mulberry Street-Nolita boards, sketching, preparing 2,000 sq. ft with 22’ ceiling tech packs for development, Chargeback Manager: Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS and fabric and trim research. Control & monitor all www.dumann.com WHOLESALE AND RETAIL Excellent computer, commu- chargebacks. Will need to nication and follow-up skills, For Space in Garment Center -RESUMES- report to senior management Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates as well as the ability to han- to resolve all errors & dis- Helmsley-Spear, Inc. GILBERT CAREER RESUMES dle multiple tasks required. 212-880-0414 pute w/customers. Min of 5 (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa VP GENERAL Must be a team player. yrs exp. Showroom / Office / Retail fashionresumes.com fashioncareercenter.com PATTERNMAKER Some travel is required. We find you space-best deal-no fee MERCHANDISE MANAGER Minimum 3 years work sublet 525 7th/ready Well established, high-end 100M Apparel Mfr. seeks an exp’d All applicants must be profi- Garment Center Real Estate experience required. cient in computer for all Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 women’s fashion designer Retail Men’s Divisional or General (whose label can be found in Saks, Fax resume and cover letter above positions. Pls send re- Merchandise Mgr for key account to: 646-607-6448 Showrooms & Lofts Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf’s) si management. Must be passionate sume to [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS seeking highly exp’d Production about the Retail Market and have or fax to 212-398-0032 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Patternmaker who is highly skilled long standing relationships and in jeans and pants. Must know contacts. Relocation not required. EXPERT CUTTER Package Development Sublease - 4500 FT. w/ Terrace factory procedures. 5-10 years Great Showroom, 6 Offices $200K to 250K + Strong Seeking F/T sample cutter with couture Manager South Facing Views - Move In ACCESSORY DESIGNER experience required. Incentives. Confidentiality Assured. experience in silk chiffon and other BlissWorld, a fast growing company & Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Fax resume: 212-268-0547 [email protected] luxury fabrics. Marking from hard pattern leader in the spa, cosmetics & catalog Must be proficient in Illustr. & Photoshop. and inventory management essential. Arena, is seeking a Package Develop- Must have exp. Looking to hire ASAP. Fax 732-280-6190 Attn: Larissa Excellent salary & benefits. Reply to: ment Manager. Responsibilities WEST 30’S Please fax resume to 212 221-1278 Box#M 1010 Design Studio / Showroom / Office avail include managing the dept. sourcing c/o Fairchild Publications & negotiating with vendors & perform- immediately. Clean. Great light. Long BOOKKEEPER 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl or short term. West 30’s. 212.695.9509. ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT Growing designer clothing line seeks DESIGNER ing compatibility tests. Must have Apparel Co. seeks a highly motivated New York, NY 1000 understanding of primary & secondary exp bookkeeper/acct mgr for finance & Fast-paced, high energy Intimate individual to assist in accounting and operations. Report to CEO with a/r,a/p, packaging & possess an engineering customer service depts. Should be detail Apparel Company seeks that special indi- GRAPHIC DESIGN ARTIST degree. Prior exp in the beauty/ balance sheet, cash flow, P&L analysis. vidual. Creative, motivated, organized oriented and a self starter. Word/Excel. Must have garment center exp w/major cosmetics industry preferred. For Please Fax or Email resumes to: team player experienced and successful TOY DESIGNER immediate consideration send resume to: retailers. Comp salary and benefits. in developing trend right fashion (212) 575-1781 Pls fax resume 212-391-8562 Att: Sara Fast paced Infant Toy company [email protected] [email protected] daywear. Technical design knowledge a seeking creative graphic designer who 390 5th Ave plus. Ideal candidate should be able to is detailed oriented with good commu- ADMIN SINCE 1967 identify trends, react to market needs nication skills. Strong knowledge of PATTERNMAKER 2 offices: 1 staff room, 1 showroom. and be focused in knowing the "right Short and/or long term lease available. W-I-N-S-T-O-N Photoshop CS and Illustrator CS req’d. Moderate priced large sized womens item" for the account. Responsibilities MUST draw freehand. Work on packaging, outerwear mfr located in N.J. seeks 1100 square ft. Immed. occupancy. will include designing seasonal lines, pre- Call: 212-751-5884 APPAREL STAFFING CAD DESIGNER licensed & non-licensed products. patternmaker w/ at least 5 yrs exp. DESIGN * SALES * MERCH pare sampling/design packages and Knowledge of Infant Industry a PLUS. Must have complete knowledge of Leading Women’s Dress and separates follow thru on all phase of development. Fax resume attn: Mary Ann ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION company is looking for a CAD Designer. womens coat construction. Pls fax Broadway @ 37th St. (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 Great company and full benefits! Must resume to: 212-719-4616 SHOWROOM SUBLET • Full or Part Knowledge of Primavision a must. be computer literate. Please fax resume 212-239-4841 Built-in Fixtures • Mirrors • 24hr. Access APPAREL JOBS Will work directly w/ designer & mer- to S. Couper at 212-842-4020. EOE. • 212-997-4300 • 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Technicals chandiser. Experience required on techni- Patternmaker-Production 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-Jr cal sketches, recoloration, developing Designer collection seeks production Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) new artwork and creating line sheets. SaraMax Graphic Designer-Children’s Wear pattern maker. 5-10 yrs exp in evening Must be organized and detail oriented. Urban Brands & Characters. Min. 3 yrs wear and tops a plus. Please fax resumes to: Please email or fax resume to RS: exp. Strong Illustrator/Photoshop 212-268-1270 Attn: Albert Apparel Staffing [email protected] skills req’d. or 201-867-2172 DESIGNER See Career Openings Major Junior Import Company seeking Designer-Outerwear PATTERNMAKER @ www.apparelstaffing.com a highly motivated, experienced Urban Brands & Characters. Flat (We offer a cash sign on bonus sketching on computer req’d. Strong Up to 65K DOE. Halloween company individual with a great style sense. in Manhattan. Must be Gerber trained. for job acceptance) Expertise in Photoshop, Illustrator and Illustrator/Photoshop req’d. Min 3 yrs DESIGN ASSISTANT exp req’d. 1st thru production, tech packs, grad- Freehand is a must. Fax resume to ing, etc. E-mail: High-end fashion company seeks assis- (212) 354-1740, Attention: Ann Production Assistant tant to the designers. Must have tech- GMT. Const. Fittings, specing over- [email protected] nical ability combined with creative ideas, seas communications. Follow GMTS participate at fittings, and coordinate DESIGNER--SENIOR from smpl through prod. with the production team. WOVENS AND KNITS Fax resume to DC: 212-564-9507 PINK CARDIGAN Please fax resume to: 212-869-2863 Leading public apparel co. Requires 5 yrs experience!! SWEATER SALES Fast paced women’s private label co. New Jr. contempory sweater company ARTIST NEEDED seeks strong, talented designer. Must Licensing Professional seeks a salesperson with the following rela- Versatile Graphic Designer needed to DESIGN ASSISTANT research fabric w/ overseas offices. Great tionships in dept, specialty & chain stores. Missy Sportswear Co. seeks a highly flat sketch skills, garment knowledge Sesame Workshop is currently recruit- Please call Joel @ (212) 302-4496 work variety of exciting projects: Must ing for a Licensing Professional who have exp. with: production packages, motivated & detail oriented individual to & understanding of fit. Self starter Fax: (212) 575-8141 assist in all aspects of design. Computer w/ trained eye for trends, prints & will be responsible for: management exp. with prints, create original artwork, and growth of a category; research / repeats, color separations, embroidery skills in MAC Illustrator & Photoshop colors. Must be highly effective, organized are required. Print design experience a team player w/ Photoshop/ Illustrator analysis; developing / marketing quali- etc. Photoshop & Illustrator skills a ty products that reflect brand property PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT must. Must be fast & detail oriented. plus. We offer great salary & benefits. exp. Mid-town NYC based. Send resume. Please Fax resume to: 212-398-1327 MAIL ONLY! Indicate ad #1083 standards and guidelines; collaborate Womens Apparel Co. seeking talented, Fax resumes to 212-695-0203 with licensees to develop the business, aggressive, exp’d. Product Manager to or email: [email protected] On Outside Of Envelope!! Realservice Advertising Agy. marketing and product plans and con- handle sales, merchandising and product 358 Saw Mill River Road duct monthly business reviews with development for private label accounts. Assistant Designer Millwood, New York 10546 key licensees. To apply send cover Please Fax resume to: 212-382-2421 Fast paced energetic detail-oriented Design Assistant letter with salary requirements to: Attn: Shelley person. Must have sweater knowledge Sweater Co. seeks Missy Import Assistant Fax: (212) 875 - 6088 or email: from design to production and demon- Designer. Must be proficient in preparing [email protected] China Connection • Miami Base strate ability to flat sketch with meas- product packs, knowledge of CAD, tech- DESIGN PRODUCTION ASST - 1-3 yrs exp deal- urements. Must be computer literate. nical specs, graphing, and all phases of ing w/overseas agents/factories & fol- Specializing in Full Package Fax 212-840-1098 or call 212-840-0182 HEAD DESIGNER SPORTSWEAR • OUTERWEAR • SUITS development. Fax resume to Sue/Kim at: lowing gds/Excel & Word nec. $37-42K 212-221-7017 Fast paced major dress mfr. seeks strong, Les Richards Agcy; Call (212) 221-0870 LADIES’ • MENS’ • CHILDREN’S talented designer. Must be totally Merchandiser Contact Leonardo G. at: BI-LINGUAL CHINESE Est. Handbag co seeks a strong leader •SWEATER TECH DESIGNER $70K knowledgeable with computers, flat Tel: 305-302-5134 / Fax: 305-386-4459 sketch, Photoshop skills and working to Merchandise our mid tier lines. Work Must have knit patternmaking ability closely with customers & factories from •SWEATER TECH DESIGNER $70-90K with the orient. Fabric market is a must Production Coordinator/ Designer- Great opportunity for the right candidate concept thru production. Travel required. PATTERN/SAMPLES Budget-moderate sportswear mfr Exp in mid tier/better handbags a must. Assistant [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Please send resume immediately in Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast 7th Avenue Handbag Co. confidence, Attn: V.P. Fax: (212) 302-5128 Email resume: [email protected] Textile importer in Manhattan seeks work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Major junior designer handbag company qualified person as Production Coordinator BOOKEEPER has opening for handbag designers & Product Assistant. Bilingual Chinese PATTERNS / MARKING / PLOTTING AP/AR with computer systems exp. with min of 2+ years exp. Individual Merchandiser & English a must, 2 yrs. experience with IN DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Knowledge of Word & Excel. Reply Fully. must be familiar with Junior accessories DIRECTOR OF PROD’N $175K Est. Legwear co seeks a strong leader to college degree, working knowledge of Any design/fabric/format; Fast turnaround Box#M 1007 market & proficient in Photo/Illust. Hand Better Bridge Contemp Runway Designer Merchandise / Source our lines. Work the textile or garment industry, strong Deliveriny anywhere in DR + Haiti. c/o Fairchild Publications sketching a plus. Salary commensurate Supervise 10 in Pattern Rm & Production closely w/ customers/Sales/factories from follow-up & computer skills required. 809-576-5154 / 809-850-0142 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl with exp. Fax resume to 212-268-9861 International/Domestic Experience concept thru shipping. Travel required. Please e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] New York, NY 10001 or email resume to [email protected] [email protected] Call: 212-947-3400 Email resume to [email protected] Fax: (201) 816-9608 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 11, 2005 27

Assistant Manager SALES REP Successful womens apparel manufac- Barbara Bui, a high-end ready-to-wear Teamwear / Activewear turer is looking for an experienced boutique in SOHO is seeking an Assis- Divisional Head sales pro. We are a large New York tant Manager. Candidate must possess Printed Textile Line Wanted PATTERNMAKER based, publicly held Co., with offices in strong communication skills and the China. Candidate should have a history NY based Agency seeks a European print Leading multi-line, international private label sourcing firm ability to delegate tasks and lead sales line. We service the moderate to better Marc Jacobs Collection seeks of success with contacts at mgmt. level. team. Individual must also be organ- with overseas factory base and strong U.S. customer base Please fax resume, in confidence, to: U.S. dress & sportswear market, providing highly skilled Patternmaker ized and sales-driven. Flexible sched- textiles & packaged garments. We are seek- seeks key exec to expand our business in teamwear and Stuart Lesser ule a must. Excellent benefits package, ing a contemporary print line that can be sportswear related activewear. Expansion from current 40 mil- to work on draping first 212-997-9133 including 401K. Salary based upon ex- sampled. E-mail: perience. Fax resume to: 212-625-1939. [email protected] lion in sales to 75 million. Experience as a current or former patterns thru production pat- owner/partner in the imported apparel field preferred. terns. Must have tailoring experience in making and Judith Ripka Companies Responsible for sales, merchandising, product development Key Acct Sales & Asst Seeking the Best in Class!!! finishing of couture women’s and production. Location NYC, NY (Midtown Manhattan). PRIVATE LABEL AND BRAND Unique opportunity to join a team of Sales garments. Position available Salesperson MUST come from, & have Pros at a flagship Madison Ave location. Please call or fax/e-mail resume to: immediately. knowl of MISSY MODERATE & Mid 3+ years of luxury sales exp. req’d. tier price markets. Dillard’s, Talbots, with polished presentation/exceptional ACCESSORY SALES Tel: 212-695-8410 / Fax: 212-695-0591 Saks, Chadwick’s, JCP, Bealls, Cato, & communication skills and proven track NY based Men’s/Women’s Accessories Excellent comp/benefits pack- TJX. Flexible hrs. 5-7 yrs exp a must. record. Strong client following a must. Ex- brand searching for Independent Sales age, international, team- Base Sal & Comm. Fax res: 516.792.0755 cellent benefits package & high income Reps to cover the Southeast and West oriented setting. Fax resume earning potential available. Cosmetic or Coast territories. Commission based VP GENERAL fashion exp. is a +++++ Please send only, with great potential. Pls forward to (212) 343-2960, Attn. resumes: resume and work history to: MERCHANDISE MANAGER DD. EO/M/F/D/V National Account Manager Attn: Theresa @ Fax: (212) 244-4560 [email protected] Prominent 100M Apparel Mfr. seeks Portal Publications Ltd., a leading Home Seeking head Patternmaker. Must experienced retail merchant with Décor Products Co. is seeking an inno- STORE MANAGER Handbag/Travel understand domestic production Missy/Junior Divisional or General vative thinker with a strong customer Busy W. Village shops need manager procedures. Thorough pattern- orientation to increase sales to national with exp. We offer benefits, good Accessories Merchandise Mgr. experience for retailers. This job is based in the New environment and room for growth. An upscale branded Fashion Company making and fitting experience in all top merchandising and key account York Metro Area and will call on accounts Fax Alida: 212-675-6360 looking for fashion handbag/travel types of garments is required. management position. Must be in the Northeast. Primary responsibilities accessories representation for various Must work well within a team include developing and implementing territories in the US. To inquire, passionate about the retail market V.P., Store Operations the selling strategy, establishing rela- WEST VILLAGE SHOP please contact Jamie at 212-768-1313. environment. Minimum 10 years and have long standing relation- The ideal candidate will have: tionships with targeted customers, and Busy W. Village shops need sales pros. experience required in Patternmaking •Apparel experience managing the overall activity of the Minimum 1 year retail exp. ships and contacts. Relocation not Fax Alida: 212-675-6360 Jr Contemp Line - NY and Supervising Patternmakers a required. Confidentiality Assured. •Fast growth success account team. Qualifications: 10 years Est’d Jr Contemporary & Import Co in must. Great working environment. •Entrepreneurial spirit sales experience, including 5 years work- L.A. seeks exp’d Sales Rep in N.Y. to Fax 732-280-6190 •Big company expertise ing with national retailers. Experience sell successful line. Must have estab- Excellent salary and generous [email protected] We offer: with fashion or home décor products a lished relationships with chain / dept / benefits package. •Fabulous culture necessity. This is an excellent opportunity mass market stores. Fax resume to •Incredible equity opportunity to join a long-standing leader in the indus- Steve @ 1-818-242-8025. Fax resume: 212-594-0038 •Make retail history! try and grow market share with existing •Great Benefits! and new products. We offer a competitive Sample Cutter compensation & benefits package. Fax For consideration send your resume to: resume, cover letter & salary require- Leading women’s wear company seeks [email protected] Production Coordinator sample cutter. Experience a plus. ments to HR-NY NAM at: 415-382-1082 Global Design Concepts - A growing Fax resume to : 212-268-1279 Check us out at: www.lucy.com EOE accessory company is looking for an Please visit us at: www.portalpub.com experienced production person. Must be detailed oriented and able to handle multiple tasks. Handbag/backpack SHIPPING DEPT. MANAGER Production Patternmaker experience is preferred. Women’s Designer Sportswear. 3+ yrs exp. Off Price Sales 20 years experience in sportswear, Please email resumes to: Good communication and computer skills. Men’s and Children’s Off Price whole- jackets & dresses. Will work in N.Y. or [email protected] Picking, packing, inv. control, invoicing. saler seeks salespeople to solicit the relocate. Call Susan @ 718-653-0928 Fax resume w/ sal. req. to: 212-768-2358 off price trade. Some experience neces- Production Coordinator sary and knowledge of computers are Major importer seeks a person with preferred. Salary/commission package excellent knowledge of CHINA commensurate w/ exp and following. GARMENT PRODUCTION. Familiar SPEC TECH Account Executive Please call or e-mail with any questions with schedules, trims, fits, samples, 212-239-6563 [email protected] strike off, lab dip comments. Comput- Exciting, ever expanding childrenswear Private Label-Knitwear er literate with good follow up skills. manufacturer seeks a Spec Technician. Private Label Co. seeks responsible in- Co paid medical benefits. Rockefeller Ideal candidate must possess experience dividual for managing existing/new retail Ctr area. Fax resume: 212-397-2202 doing fit reviews on garments, checking business. Day to day direct communi- and grading specs, checking construction cation with accounts and follow through SALES ASSISTANT and workmanship. Communication overseas. Candidate will have prior Women’s apparel company seeks Assistant Production Coordinator skills and computer knowledge are exp. in sweater knits and understanding for Senior Sales Executive. Must be required. Patternmaking & childrenswear of private label process. Well-organized, Computer Literate, College Graduate, Self Men’s branded and private label co. experience are a plus. Starter, and Detail Oriented. Minimum of seeks a detail oriented individual with strong PC skills, attention to detail, Fax resume with salary requirements along with solid communication skills, 1 year experience in the apparel industry. good communication skills to serve as (a must) to: 702-995-8901 Fax Resume to Mike at 212-302-5763 production coordinator. Must be familiar hands on presentation skills and a passion with all of the following: scheduling, for the product. Candidate should have working with factories, trims, lab dips a min. 4 yrs. Prv. label sales experience. and order writing. Only candidates SPEC TECH Please email resume w/ salary require- with 3-5+ years experience. Please fax ment to: [email protected] or Fast paced Kids BRANDED & P/L fax 212-840-7742 SALES resume & salary requirements. Jeans wear co. seeks skilled applicant Int’l. Importer & Marketer of Fashion 212-302-2189 w/ min 4 years exp. in spec develop- Designers from Spain, Brazil, and Japan ment, garment const., patterns, grad- seeks Salespeople throughout the USA. ing, fit & ability to do approval correc- Bagatelle International Drivers’ license req’d.; Bachelor’s degree Production/Designer’s Asst tions. Must have excel communication Entry Level Sales / Administrative Asst. and exp. preferred. Fax/E-mail resumes: skills to work with mass market P/D as Great oppty for aggressive organized 201-729-0041 / [email protected] Leading women’s wear company seeks individual eager to move into sales. hardworking, organized individual to well as overseas factories. Computer skills a must. Excellent working envi- Strong computer skills a must. Must assist with production and development be able to communicate and interact of eveningwear collections. ronment w/ competitive compensation. E-mail to [email protected] with clients on a regular basis. Pls Fax resume to: 212-268-1279 send resume: Fax: 212-736-0165 or email: [email protected] SALES MANAGER PRODUCTION Luxury Jewelry Co. has fantastic opportu- Growing intimate apparel/bra co seeks SPEC TECH nity; Seeking a go-getter, no nonsense, detail oriented production manager. Freelance or Full Time. FABRIC SALES highly motivated, enthusiastic team player Responsibilities include sourcing, meet- Knits/Wovens 3+ Yrs Exp. Premier vertical mill seeks aggressive responsible for managing new & existing ing with vendors, negotiating prices, Create and Maintain Tech Packages seller with extensive background Dept./Specialty Store business. Extensive communication with factories. Work Concept Through Production. selling moderate to better priced knits travel req’d. Luxury goods exp., sense of directly with President of company. Approve Fit and Construction. from basics to novelties. If you are humor, and strong work ethic a must. FAX resume (212) 532-8707 Fax: (212) 944-1482 or that person, please fax your resume to: Position based in Austin, TX. Salary Email: [email protected] 212-239-2257 ATT: Human Resources. commiserate w/experience. Fax/E-mail Production/Patternmaker resume and all salary requirements to: Major High Bridge Designer Co., look- 512 320-8442 / [email protected] ing for top notch sportswear and dress GREAT OPPORTUNITY! patternmaker. Must have minimum Sunglass Merchandiser Fast growing intimates company seeks 10 yrs. exp. Salary open. Fax resume: Sunglass importer seeks individual to seasoned sales professional, with intimate 212-840-0205 merchandise our spring 2006 sunglass experience preferred, to drive sales as SALES PROFESSIONAL E-mail: [email protected] collection. Position requires a minimum well as oversee and develop account Well known established contemporary of 5 years SUNGLASS EXPERIENCE. relationships. Excellent opportunity knitwear Co. seeks pros. Sales exp’d w/ RAW MATERIALS ASST. Overseas travel req’d. Great Opportunity! for growth. Midtown NYC based. Dept. major & private label a/c. Min 5 yrs exp. To keep fabric library, order & track Email resume: [email protected] store or mass merchant contacts a plus. Pls fax resume to 646-473-0963 or sample yardage and lab test follow up. Must have 3-5 yrs. experience. Please e-mail: [email protected] Good communication & computer skills E-mail your resume & salary requirements a must. Fax resume to: 212-683-4038 SWEATER/CUT & SEW KNITS [email protected] RECEPTIONIST TD Sweater Better Bridge $70-85K SALES REP WANTED Major apparel company seeks well TD Sweater Bi-Lingual Chinese $70K Intimate Apparel / Seeking experienced account executive organized individual to manage the Knit patternmaking ability a must to join road sales force for womens front desk and day to day adminis- TD Cut & Sew Knits Pvt Label $70K outerwear manufacturer to handle TD NJ Fully Fashion Knits $60K Sleepwear Reps trative duties. Must have excellent Need reps for all areas for above prod- specialty stores for the following phone manner and desk appearance. Computer sketching ability territories: TD Sweater Devel to Prod’n $60-70K ucts. Also need exp. NY based salesper- Fax resume to 212-239-2766 son with accounts. Fast growing com- Work with designers SOUTHEAST, MIDWEST, FLORIDA RELOCATION [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 pany. FAX resume: (201) 461-3372. *CONNECTICUT -TD Director $150K Please fax resume Attn: Jennifer to *PHILA-TD Better Wovens Sprtwr $80K 212.302.5184 or call 212.302.3744 *PHILA-Pttmkr Dress/Suits Blouses $78K SWEATER DESIGNER $125K + JOE’S JEANS *WISCONSIN-Pttmkr / TD’s Wovens/Knits $$$ Brand New Division. Better Bridge Brand- Hotline Showroom seeks SALES REPS [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 ed Contemp Market. Excell Environment. with 3-5 years experience with premium [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 denim. Working relationships with better WHOLESALE SALES RETAIL specialty stores a must. Please e-mail: L.A. based Couture Bridal House seeks [email protected] an energetic, sales-driven, dynamic in- Store Manager & Sales dividual with proven track record and New luxury boutique in Soho in seeks SWIMWEAR $80-100K solid relationships with major Depart- RETAIL MANAGER & SALES STAFF FOUNDATION/TD Jr Knit Top/Screen Tee ment and Better Specialty Stores. Re- Engaging, organized, intelligent, and styl- [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 SALARY + COMMISSION sponsibilities include selling, market- ish. Min. 4 years exp. req’d. for Manager. Junior knit top and screen tee manu- ing and merchandising, trunk show Japanese/European languages & com- facturer is seeking a qualified salesper- and trade show preparations and par- puter literacy req’d. Fax: 212-997-5515 TD MENS or WOMENS Outerwear $75K son. Must have strong buyer contacts ticipation. Excellent interpersonal and TD WOVENS PDM Sportswear $70-80K with dept. stores and specialty chains. communication skills required. Must SALES MANAGER TD KIDS 7-16 Bi-Lingual Chinese$50K Min 5 years experience in selling both be able to travel. Only proactive indi- Missy Sweater & Tee’s TD JEANS Private Label $40K mass market and mid-tier market. Fax viduals with a desire to drive a success- Solid connections a Must. Major Mid Tier. SPEC TECH Bridge Designer $35-45K resume & salary history to 213.748.2402 ful business need apply. [email protected]; Fax 201-503-1070 [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 or E-mail: [email protected] E-mail resume to: [email protected]