CYCLING LÔN LAS CYMRU CYCLING LÔN LAS CYMRU About the Author After years of road running and mountaineering had wreaked havoc with 250 MILES THROUGH THE HEART OF his knees, Richard Barrett returned to long-distance cycling in his fifties when he bought himself a classic British-made touring bike. Now in his ON TRAFFIC-FREE PATHS AND QUIET ROADS sixties, he rides a hand-made bike from one of the great British frame makers that have appeared in recent years. Combined with walking, by Richard Barrett cycling allows him to continue his love affair with the more mountainous parts of the UK which he first visited as a teenager. He spent his career in marketing in a number of multinational organisations in the UK and abroad, but he now lives in West Cheshire and rides two or three times a week with groups on both sides of the border.

Other Cicerone guides by the author Cycling in the Hebrides Cycling in the Lake District The Hebridean Way Walking on Harris and Lewis

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Richard Barrett 2018 First edition 2018 CONTENTS ISBN: 978 1 85284 987 0

Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd. Map key...... 6 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Route summary table...... 7 All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. Overview map...... 8–9 Ride planner from ...... 10 Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Ride planner from Chepstow ...... 11 © Crown copyright 2018 OS PU100012932. Suggested schedule summary from Cardiff...... 12 NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI Suggested schedule summary from Chepstow...... 13

Dedication INTRODUCTION ...... 15 This book is dedicated to those stalwarts who lobby for better facilities for cyclists Why Lôn Las Cymru?...... 17 and give up their time to maintain Sustrans routes in their neighbourhood. How tough is it?...... 18 Which direction to ride?...... 18 Selecting a schedule...... 18 Acknowledgements Getting there ...... 19 My thanks to Jonathan and Joe Williams of Cicerone for commissioning this book First and last nights...... 23 and in so doing introducing me to wonderful bits of the country I had never When to ride ...... 24 previously visited. I should also like to thank Sian, Verity, Stephanie and the Accommodation...... 24 production team, who once again made the process such a pleasure. Baggage transfer...... 24 What to take...... 25 Preparing your bike ...... 25 Eating...... 27 Updates to this Guide Phones and Wi-Fi...... 28 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as Emergencies...... 29 they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates Waymarking...... 29 that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone. Maps ...... 29 co.uk/987/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise Using this guide...... 29 that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful LÔN LAS CYMRU ...... 31 for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on Stage 1 Cardiff to Glasbury...... 32 the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Stage 1a Chepstow to Glasbury...... 49 Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Stage 2 Glasbury to Llanidloes ...... 64 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and Stage 3 Llanidloes to Dolgellau...... 74 GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Stage 4 Dolgellau to Caernarfon...... 84 Stage 5 Caernarfon to Holyhead...... 103

Front cover: Parked up at my preferred ending – South Stack Lighthouse (Stage 5) 

Appendix A Cycle shops...... 114 Appendix B Accommodation...... 116 ROUTE SUMMARY TABLE Appendix C Useful contacts...... 119 Appendix D What to take...... 121 Appendix E Welsh words and pronunciation...... 122 Stage Start End Distance Ascent Time (hrs Page (miles/km) (m) at 10mph/ Appendix F Selected additional reading ...... 124 16kph + 400m/hr)

1 Cardiff Glasbury 70/112 1200 10–11 32

Symbols used on route maps 1a Chepstow Glasbury 57/91 1500 9–10 49 route hostel (Alt start)

alternative route bike shop 2 Glasbury Llanidloes 48/77 1000 7–8 64

start point railway station 3 Llanidloes Dolgellau 39/62 1200 7–8 74

finish point Tourist Information Centre 4 Dolgellau Caernarfon 60/96 1100 9–10 84

alternative start point castle or fort 5 Caernarfon Holyhead 38/61 500 5–6 103 Total 255/408 5000 38–43 alternative finish point priory Total (Alt start) 242/387 5300 37–42 route direction point of interest

steep ascent or descent ( distance marker in miles

very steep ascent or descent The from the north (Stage 1)

GPX files GPX files for all routes can be downloaded free at www.cicerone.co.uk/987/GPX. Route maps are at a scale of 1:200,000. All other maps, including town maps, vary. Please refer to the scale on the map.

6 7 ove d omsg r

ycling ôn as ymru Chase verview map

A518 A518  C L L C A518 O Cannock Stourbridge Stourbridge B r Tetbury M60 M60 Knutsfo r Knutsfo r

A54 Stafford A46

A458 A458A442 A442

A58 A58

A58 A41 A36

A53 A53 A53 A530 A530

M6 A530 A41 A40 ate

A41 ate

M56

M4 M4

556 556 556 A449 A449

A449 Y Y

A A A

A456 A456 A456 A500 A500 A500 A4103

A4103

A580 A580 Bath Bath n Hills M50 Telford Market Market Drayton Drayton

Newport Newport

Middlewich Middlewich

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Bridgnorth Bridgnorth

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A403 A403 e e e

Ledbury A403 Ledbury

S S S A48 A48 A48

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Wigan Wigan A37

R R

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A49 A53

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Audlem Audlem

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A54 A54 A54 A49 A49

A49 L L arrington

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A49 A49

A5 A49 A5

A38 A38 A38 A49 A49 A49 enlock enlock Widnes Widnes W B r B r Much Much Much Nantwich Nantwich Leominster Ludlow Ludlow Northwich Northwich Wye V Wye V to Bristol W

W A49 A4137

n n A49 A49 A49 Ross-on-Wye Ross-on-Wye M56 M56 M62 em em e e M49 M49

Bristol

Shrewsbury

A57 A57

A57 Chepstow Chepstow A44 A44 W A44

W

A40 A40 Shropshi r

Shropshi r Shawbury Shawbury 46 M48 M48

A465 A465

A41 A465

A534 A534

A534 A5

A55 A55 M58 M58 Runco r Runco r

Chester Chester

exham exham

A368 A368 A368

M57 M57

A59 A59 A59 r r A4112 A4112 A4112 gavenny gavenny vonmouth M4 M4 Hereford Ellesme r A570 Ellesme r Monmouth

Monmouth

A449 A449

A458 A458 A458 A438 A Church Church A438

A5 42 W W Stretton Stretton Castle Castle Newport

Newport

A483 A483 Usk Usk Bishops Bishops Abe r

Abe r

A41 A41 M53 M53 A4042

to Hereford

A565 A565 e Kington Kington Clevedon Clevedon

A5 A48(M)

42 A483 A483 A483 Clun Clun Clun -Ma r Bootle 825 Hay- Hay- Mold Mold CARDIFF on-Wye A44 on-Wye ale ale

Formby

A55

A55

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Ebbw Ebbw Cwmbran

Knighton

70 Pontypool Pontypool

Crickhowell

Llangollen

R Dee Llangollen A494 A494

A494 Caerphilly Caerphilly

W A479

10

Queensferry Queensferry

Oswestry Oswestry

A483 A483

Liverpool A483 Liverpool A483 A483

Birkenhead A483

S S S

S S

S A465 A465 A465 Barry Barry 20 A5

81 Newtown Newtown Newtown elshpool elshpool

50 N N N

N N

N A470

Range Range 8

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Holywell

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eston-supe r 8 T T A A A A A

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Bay T T T Llanfair Llanfair T T T W

Corwen Corwen 90 80 Cae r Cae r

N N N N N N A44 Ruthin Ruthin

Liverpool A458

100

8 40 A470 A470 A470

U U U U U

U ells ells econ econ L

Stage 2 end

M4 M4

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Llanidloes T T Llanidloes Llanidloes E

B r A470 A470 B r Pontypridd Rhondda Rhondda Denbigh Denbigh

W W

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M M M

M M

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A483 A483

110 A483 Bridgend Bridgend H Bay Bay

A A A A A A A40 Mallwyd Mallwyd

Colwyn Colwyn I I I I I Abe r I Abe r

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Llanfair

Llanfair

A465 A465

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8

Maesteg Maesteg

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150

A470 BRECON BEACONS

A470 BRECON BEACONS

Sennybridge Sennybridge Neath Neath Stage 3 end M M M M M

M O

Betws- Betws- y-Coed y-Coed

81 A A A A A

A T

5

A A A 7 7 7 8 8 8 4 4 4 C C C C C Llandudno C Llandudno S Ffestiniog Llan Ffestiniog SNOWDONIA SNOWDONIA 140 I

Porthcawl Porthcawl 160 albot albot Port Port Port

A5 A470 R

A44 A44 A44

A44 A44 A44

T

T

A55 A55

Conwy

A487 A487 A487 A483 A483 A483 A487 A487 A487 Brynamman Brynamman Bay

Pumsaint B Blaenau Blaenau Dolgellau Dolgellau od od 180 Ffestiniog Ffestiniog Bethesda Bethesda Swansea on on A483 to Chester Llandovery Beaumaris Beaumaris M4 M4 Lled r Lled r Machynlleth ega r ega r Porthmadog Porthmadog r r Llangadog Llangadog 220 narfon narfon T T Bangor Bangor 190 170 Benllech Benllech Llandeilo

ywyn ywyn

T T

A487 A487 Cae r A487 Cae r 210 Barmouth

Swansea

A48 A48 r Ammanford

Harlech o Menai Menai A40 Bridge Bridge Port-Eynon Port-Eynon h

8 g Lampeter Lampeter km

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230 Criccieth

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Llanelli

L L L

200 20

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Synod Inn Synod Inn

Aberystwyth Aberystwyth Aberystwyth

R R R Llanrhystud

Llanrhystud

A55 10 miles Pwllheli Pwllheli Llangefni Llangefni ˆ ˆ

Aberae r Aberae r A487 A487 A487 ANGLESEY Abersoch

Abersoch

A40

A40 Stage 4 end Gower Gower N Elfed Elfed Cynwyl Cynwyl distance from start in Cardiff National Cycle Network route Intersection with other National Cycle Network route Carmarthen New Quay New Quay Nefyn Nefyn digan digan 0 Worms Head / Penrhyn-Gwyr 0 ˆ ˆ Bay Bay 4 Emlyn Emlyn 250 Llyn Llyn Ca r Newcastle Ca r Newcastle Pendine Pendine 8h Rhosneigr Rhosneigr Caernarfon Bay St Clears Carmarthen CARDIGAN BAY / CARDIGAN BAY BAE CEREDIGION 8 Island

100

A40 A477 Bardsey A477 A477 enby enby to Bristol Crymych Holy Island T T

Holyhead Narberth

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Pemb r Pemb r

L L L

L L L

E E E E E E

N N N N N N

N N N N N N

A A A A A A

H H H H H H

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G G G G G G

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. . .

. . .

T T T T T T

S S S S S S  RideCycling planner Lôn Las Cfromymru Cardi­ Ride planner from Chepstow

Miles from Cardi Miles from Chepstow

Cardi 0 254 88 Chepstow 0 240 88 8 miles St Briavels

Pontypridd 240 4 881 20 Usk 20 220 423 46 Merthyr Tydfil 46 3 miles Llanellen 220 Pantygelli

Stage 1 40 Stage 1 Talybont-on-Usk 40 200 Brecon 200 Hay-on-Wye 60 Glasbury 60 180 4 miles Glasbury Hay-on-Wye 1½ miles 180 Builth Wells Builth Road 80 Newbridge-on-Wye 825 5 miles Llandrindod Wells Builth Wells 1½ miles Builth Road 80 160 Stage 2 Llandrindod Newbridge-on-Wye 160 5 miles Rhayader 81 825 2 miles 11 miles 825 Llandrindod Wells Wells station

Stage 2 100 Llandrindod Rhayader 81 825 2 miles 11 miles 100 140 Wells station 2 miles Llanidloes 81 140 2 miles 7 miles Llanidloes 81 Caersws station 120 7 miles Caersws station 120 120 82 Dylife 120 Machynlleth Stage 3 Corris Machynlleth 140 82 Stage 3 Corris Dolgellau 140 100 82 100 Dolgellau 82 Barmouth 160 Barmouth Llanbedr 1½ miles 160 80 1½ miles 1 miles Llanbedr 80 Harlech Harlech 1 miles 180 Porthmadog 82 Porthmadog 82 Stage 4 Garndolbenmaen 3 miles

Stage 4 180 60 Garndolbenmaen 60 3 miles 200

Caernarfon 200 40 Caernarfon 40 2 miles 220 Bangor 5 Bangor 2 miles 5 Llanfair Pwllgwyngyll Llanfair Pwllgwyngyll 20 Bodorgan 220 20 Bodorgan 240 Stage 5 Stage 5 Valley 3 miles Rhoscolyn Valley 3 miles Rhoscolyn Holyhead 254 0 5 Holyhead 240 0 5

Miles from Holyhead Miles from Holyhead

10 Tourist information Hostel Rail station Cycle shop 88 NCR link Tourist information Hostel Rail station Cycle shop 88 NCR link 11  CSuggestedycling Lôn L scheduleas Cymru summary from Cardi€ Suggested schedule summary from Chepstow

Miles from Cardi 4 DAYS 5 DAYS 6 DAYS 7 DAYS Miles from Chepstow 4 DAYS 5 DAYS 6 DAYS 7 DAYS

Cardi 0 Chepstow 0 Chepstow Cardi Cardi to to to Chepstow Chepstow Chepstow Abergavenny Pontypridd Talybon-on Talybont-on Usk to to to 30 miles 20 -Usk -Usk 20 Cardi Cardi Glasbury Glasbury Hay-on-Wye 5–6hr Merthyr Tydfil to to 49 miles 49 miles Abergavenny 800m ascent 52 miles Glasbury Glasbury 6–7hr 6–7hr Pantgelli 57 miles 57 miles 8–9hr 40 800m ascent 800m ascent 9–10hr 9–10hr Abergavenny 70 miles 70 miles 40 1400m ascent Talybont-on-Usk 1500m ascent 1500m ascent to Brecon 10–11hr 10–11hr Newbridge- 1200m ascent 1200m ascent Talybont on Talybont on Hay-on-Wye on-Wye Usk to Usk to 60 Glasbury Hay-on-Wye Newbridge- Builth Wells 60 50 miles to on-Wye Glasbury 7–8hr Glasbury 37 miles Builth Wells to Rhayader 1100m ascent 5–6hr 43 miles Llandiloes 80 Glasbury Glasbury 6–7hr 700m ascent Newbridge-on-Wye Glasbury 38 miles Newbridge- Builth Wells to to 700m ascent 80 to 6–7hr Llandiloes Llandiloes Builth Wells Machynlleth 800m ascent on-Wye to Newbridge-on-Wye to Rhayader 48 miles Llandiloes 48 miles 48 miles Llandiloes 7–8hr 24 miles 100 Newbridge- Rhayader 4–5hr Rhayader 7–8hr 7–8hr 31 miles 1000m ascent on-Wye 5–6hr 100 71 miles to 700m ascent 1000m ascent 1000m ascent to 800m ascent Llanidloes 11–12hr Corris Llandiloes Llanidloes Machynlleth 1600m ascent Llandiloes 120 Llandiloes to 44 miles to Llandiloes 47 miles to Dolgellau 7–8hr Dolgellau to 7–8hr 120 Llandiloes Dolgellau 1100m ascent Dylife Dolgellau 1200m ascent Machynlleth 39 miles to 39 miles Machynlleth 39 miles Corris 7–8hr 140 Harlech 39 miles 7–8hr 7–8hr Machynlleth 1200m ascent Corris 7–8hr 1200m ascent Corris Machynlleth 1200m ascent Dolgellau 140 to 59 miles 1200m ascent to Porthmadog to Dolgellau to Dolgellau 10–11hr Harlech Dolgellau Barmouth Porthmadog 160 Porthmadog 1600m ascent 37 miles to Barmouth Llanbedr 47 miles Dolgellau 41 miles 33 miles Dolgellau 6–7hr Porthmadog 160 8–9hr to 7–8hr 5–6hr Llanbedr 1100m ascent 33 miles to Harlech 1400m ascent Caernarfon 1200m ascent 800m ascent Harlech Caernarfon 5–6hr 180 Harlech 800m ascent Porthmadog Porthmadog 60 miles Porthmadog Portmadog 60 miles to Portmadog Garndolbenmaen 9–10hr to to 180 Caernarfon Caernarfon Garndolbenmaen 9–10hr Caernarfon to 1300m ascent Caernarfon 1300m ascent 41 miles 29 miles 28 miles 200 28 miles Porthmadog 4–5hr 3–4hr 6–7hr Harlech 3–4hr to 500m ascent 400m ascent to 900m ascent 400m ascent Caernarfon 200 Holyhead Caernarfon Holyhead Bangor Caernarfon Caernarfon Bangor 220 Caernarfon Caernarfon Caernarfon 67 miles Caernarfon to to to to Llanfair Pwllgwyngyll 78 miles to to Llanfair Pwllgwyngyll 9–10hr Holyhead Holyhead Holyhead Holyhead Holyhead Holyhead 11–12hr Bodorgan 220 1000m ascent Bodorgan 1400m ascent 240 38 miles 38 miles 38 miles 38 miles 38 miles 38 miles 5–6hr 5–6hr 5–6hr 5–6hr 5–6hr 5–6hr Valley 500m ascent 500m ascent 500m ascent Valley 500m ascent 500m ascent 500m ascent Holyhead 254 Holyhead 240

12 13  Cycling Lôn Las Cymru

INTRODUCTION

Looking north along Talybont (Stage 1)

Lôn Las Cymru runs from Cardiff Crossing the mountains requires a or Chepstow to Holyhead, passing good level of fitness but should not through the heart of Wales. Translating trouble the average rider on an aver- loosely as Wales’ Green Lane, it is age bike as the gradients are mostly the preeminent cycle route in Wales, gentle. The panoramic views from the passing through lush countryside, and top of the , Bryn Y Fedwen following quiet lanes and former rail- and Moel Goedog make the climbs way lines. worth the effort too. The scenery on The route from Cardiff is just the flatter sections is equally stunning, over 250 miles (400km) or, from the especially up Wye Valley and along alternative start in Chepstow, it is just the quiet lanes on Anglesey. over 240 miles (390km). It passes Travelling through such wonder- through the Brecon Beacons National ful countryside by bike is hugely satis- Park and Snowdonia National Park fying both for those who want to cover and over the Black Mountains, the the miles quickly and those preferring Brecon Beacons, and the Cambrian a more leisurely pace to watch wild- Mountains of Mid Wales taking life and explore attractions along the Ornate gate in Llansantffraed-Cwmdeuddwr at the start of the Elan Valley cycleway which is briefly shared by Lôn Las Cymru (Stage 2) in some of the most stunning and way. There are plenty of pretty villages diverse landscapes in the British Isles. and interesting towns where you can

14 15 Cycling Lôn Las Cymru Stage 1 – Cardiff to Glasbury

The impressive Wales Millennium Centre (Canolfan STAGE 1 Mileniwm Cymru), designed to express ‘Welshness’, Cardiff to Glasbury incorporates materials that have played an impor- tant role in the history of Wales, such as slate, cop- per and steel. It is clad in slate from various quar- Start Sustrans marker post in front of the Wales Millennium ries including those at Corris near the route of Lôn Centre (ST 192 746) Las Cymru. The centre’s main feature, the bronze Finish Glasbury Bridge (SO 180 393) coloured dome, is steel treated with an oxide of Distance 70 miles (112km) copper – both metals that were once economically Ascent 1200m important to South Wales. If you venture inside the Time 10–11hrs building you can see how the principal internal OS maps OS Landranger 160, 161, 170 and 171 spaces make extensive use of native hardwoods Refreshments Until you are never far from a shop or café from renewable woodland in Mid Wales through although you will probably need to leave the route to which we will be riding. find one. After that there is 20 miles with nothing near Inscribed across the front of the dome are two the route until you get near to Brecon and then another 9 poetic lines by the Welsh poet Gwyneth Lewis, miles with nothing until you get to Talgarth. Accommodation Plenty of accommodation of all types in Cardiff, Brecon one in Welsh and one in English. The one in and Glasbury. Welsh reads ‘Creu gwir fel gwydr o ffwrnais awen’ (Creating truth like glass from inspiration’s furnace) and was inspired in part by the furnaces from Wales’s industrial heritage. The one in English reads This stage goes through the capital and up the Taff Valley following the ‘In these stones horizons sing’ and reflects both largely traffic-free before climbing through the gap between the the traditional importance of the sea for exporting Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains. There is a long easy descent into Welsh goods and the role of the building being a Brecon followed by a few miles of undulating hills before dropping down to space for celebrating the very best of Welsh and meet the River Wye at Glasbury. other cultures.

Cardi Pontypridd Merthyr Tydfil Torpantau Brecon Glasbury m 500

400

300

200 The impressive steel and copper 100 front of the Wales 0 Millennium Centre 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 miles

32 33

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4

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2 1 8

7

5 4 7 4 A4 Cycling LônMerthyr Las Cymru 6 B Stage 1 – Cardiff to Glasbury 05 4 2 9 Vale Argoed A 7 A4 A470 Map continues on page 39 B4251 Lloyd George Avenue Oakdale Crumlin Curran Road 54 B42 Pengam BLACKWOOD NEWBRIDGE Taf Afo f E D n Gelligaer mb u C an m yn km b o e a n Quakers C n l Cefn Hengoed t l or s

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d R d ABERCARN oa L A472 d B4273 Cwmcarn B4273 Wyllie A A C 4 la 4 re MYNACH 6 nc 0 e A 7 R 5 o 4 Pontywaun ad 4 6 James Street 9 t B n 42 e PONTYPRIDD Cwmfelinfach51 m k n S RISCA a Senghenydd irhow b y River m E Llanbradach e c n A e 4 ( r Stuart Street 05 B la 8 Abertridwr 4 C 26 Trethomas468 Machen 3 Bedwas A Avondale Road Cardi Lower Machen Pen-y- e Bay ad coedcae lan CAERPHILLY Draethen sp N NRudry E or ds Ton-teg in W 0 2 4 0 0.5 A470 km Thornhill km 3 Gwaelod- 5 7 y-garth ! 59 4 Began 4 A R M4 B iv e Taff's Well r Lisvane S 32 T a Castell 4From the Sustrans marker post, head across Mermaid Although the Taff ff B B Coch Llanishen 4562 4 29a Quay to the seafront and follow the shared-use path Trail follows the same 2 Pentwyn Groes- Creigiau 6 32 2 faen A along Stuart Street, Dudley Street, Windsor Terrace, route as National 4 A41 0 St 19 5 Mellons Windsor Esplanade and through the tunnel under the Cycle Route 8 until 4 Capel Llanilltern A48 A4232 into Hamadryad Park. Ride through the park and Brecon, both appear 34 Heath S Rumney 33 Whitchurch to have their own 5 Roath L St Bride's- Newton start points albeit only super-Ely a few metres apart. Peterston- St super-Ely Fagans Canton Pendoylan St Ely A4161 CARDIFF/CAERDYDD r George's Caerau ive L Ely R 32 A48 42 A Downs St Nicholas L Twyn-yr-odyn B4267Leckwith Bonvilston A 8 4 A4 A4160 St Lythans 0 5 Llandough Wenvoe0 Michaelston- le-Pit A 4 St Andrews The sustrans marker

2 Dinas

2 2 2 Major

6 6

6 post in Roald Dahl Plass,

7 6 34 2 35 4 B Cycling Lôn Las Cymru Stage 1 – Cardiff to Glasbury

THE SCOTTISH CONNECTION short life he used his wealth to pursue his passions, which included medi- Medieval re-enactment in front of the original Norman keep inside Cardiff Castle evalism and architecture, renovating and expanding both Cardiff Castle and , which are two of the finest examples of the late Victorian era Gothic Revival. The Marquess’s patronage was also extensive and there is a park and many streets named after the family showing just how highly esteemed the name Bute is in the city.

along Clarence Embankment. Keep to the shared-use path and turn left along Clarence Road, crossing the for the first time. Once over the bridge, cross at the pedestrian crossing and follow Taff Embankment, Taff’s Mead Embankment, Fitzhamon Embankment and Coldstream Embankment for 2 miles using pelican cross- ings to cross main roads. The busy city centre with its famous landmarks such as and Cardiff Castle lies across Having left Cardiff where being Welsh is celebrated in the arts, sport and the river. For the moment this bank is decidedly resi- everyday life, it’s perhaps safe to suggest that none of this would have hap- dential. Continue cycling past sports clubs and through pened without one particular Scottish family that the Welsh themselves Fields before crossing Blackweir Bridge to fol- still hold dear to their hearts. For centuries, the Earls of Bute had lived qui- low the route on the opposite bank through the north- To visit Castell Coch etly on the island in the Firth of Clyde from which they took their title. All ern end of . The route sticks close to the River turn right up Mill that changed in 1766 when the 4th Earl, and 1st Marquess, married the Taff for the next 4 miles. Then after passing first under Road in the centre Honourable Charlotte Jane Windsor, who bought Cardiff Castle and large the M40 motorway and shortly afterwards the A470 of Tongwynlais and ancestral estates in South Wales into the family. Cardiff to Glan Conwy Trunk Road, it moves away from follow signs to the In 1801, Cardiff had population of 1870 making it only the twenty- the river through Tongwynlais (9/61 miles). At the end of castle. Continue on fifth largest town in Wales, well behind Merthyr Tydfil and Swansea. John Iron Bridge Road, turn left on to the A4054 Merthyr Road this loop to re-join Crichton-Stuart (1793–1848), the 2nd Marquess of Bute, soon changed its and follow it through the centre to join a shared-use path the main route just 4 fortunes when he exploited his mineral reserves and developed the docks once beyond its boundary. before Nantgarw. and transport connections. Cardiff soon became the main port for exports The roads ahead are busy so stick to the shared- of coal and iron from the Valleys and the city’s population grew at a rate of use path and designated crossings to navigate first the nearly 80 per cent per decade between 1840 and 1870. The 2nd Marquess’s roundabout and then Cardiff Road before turning right investments paid off handsomely and he would later be known as ‘the crea- into Taffs Well. Continue northwards using the shared-use tor of modern Cardiff’. By the 1881 census, Cardiff had become the largest path. Then, just before a mini-roundabout, cross at a blue town in Wales. It became a city in 1905 and the capital in 1955. fingerpost and follow the path alongside the opposite car- His son, the 3rd Marquess of Bute (1847–1900), gained an inheritance riageway and over the A470. After 1½ miles of traffic- that reportedly made him the richest man in the world. During his relatively free cycling on what was clearly once a railway, cross the A468 dual carriageway in Nantgarw using the peli- can crossing. Then follow signs around the corner into

36 37 Cycling Lôn Las Cymru Stage 1 – Cardiff to Glasbury

Heol-y-Dderwen and then turn immediately right into Map continues N Bwlch Heol-y-Gors to re-join the track of the old railway. BRECON BEACONS on page 44 Gaer NATIONAL PARK Aber Village Coed- Enjoy the next 5 miles of easy cycling with noth- yr-ynys River Usk / A ing other than a couple of minor roads to cross and a fon W syg few access barriers to squeeze through. Once back on 0 22 4 Cwmcrawnon km4 Llangynidr the road near the University of South Wales B5448 Talybont Campus, join the shared-use path, cross the roundabout Reservoir dp and ride down Cemetery Road before crossing to the Abercynafon

shared-use path alongside Road. Eventually B B4 45 56 Torpantau 6 the path becomes too narrow for cycling and you will 0 0 Nant-ddu du Pentwyn need to resort to the road. After ½ mile turn left into Reservoir Ynysangharad Road. At its end, a brown sign shows there Brecon Mountain Railway is a busy roundabout to negotiate so turn left to pick up a shared-use path and use the designated crossings to Reservoir 2 4 Trefil get first to the north end of and then A4047 To visit the centre across to shops on the north side of the A4223.3Turn left Rassau Pontsticill of Pontypridd into West Street at the end of the shops, then quickly right cp Tafarnaubach Sirhowy follow Bridge Street in South Street and subsequently into Middle Street and Dukestown downhill and cross Bonvilston Road. At its end turn left along TREDEGAR the River Taff. Road where once again the route follows the course of A465 the old railway. Cern-Coed-y-Cummer A465 A4060 The fortunes of Pontypridd (16/54 miles) were inex- cu 6 7 MERTHYR TYDFIL/MERTHYR TUDFUL

tricably tied to the coal and iron industries. Its posi- 2 A 4 B A 4 tion at the junction of three valleys made it an impor- 4 0 Castle Museum 6 4 9 tant location for the transportation of coal from the A470 and Art Gallery 8 River Taff Rhondda Valley and iron from Merthyr Tydfil and its Abernant Pentrebach Tirphil Hollybush railway platform is thought to have once been the New Tredegar A Troedyrhiw 4 0 longest in the world during its heyday with trains A Deri A 4 4 9 4 6

passing through every two or three minutes. Since B 0 9

4 4

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the decline of heavy industry, Pontypridd, in com- 233 8 Markham 5 5 A4 5 A bp Aberbargoed mon with many other nearby towns, faces the over- 40 Merthyr 59 BARGOED whelming challenge of finding new industries to Vale MOUNTAIN ASH replace those that, for a century and half, provided A470 employment for many thousands of people. Trelewis 54 B42 Pengam FERNDALE A Treharris fon Gelligaer It is traffic-free cycling for the next 3 miles to C yn o Ynysboeth n Quakers Cefn Hengoed Abercynon (19/51 miles) where the route emerges at a Yard bu Nelson blue fingerpost. Ride along Martins Terrace and turn left Ystrad ABERCYNON Hengoed L A472 on to the A4275 in front of The Navigation Inn and then B4273

38 39 Cycling Lôn Las Cymru Stage 1 – Cardiff to Glasbury

This lane – Tramway quickly right by the fire station once again following the crossing. Two hundred metres further on, turn right into Road Side – route along the course of the old railway. Within ½ mile, an unnamed road and follow signs down towards the commemorates the route passes first under the A470 then shortly after- river. Richard Trevithick wards the A472. Continue up this narrow lane that cir- Follow the shared-use path, across the waste ground who ran the first cles around an islet in the River Taff called where Cyfarthfa Ironworks once stood, then a mile later steam locomotive where a community of dissenters buried their dead in the over the Cefn Coed Viaduct across the river. along tracks here on 17th century.3 21 February 1804. The 200 metres beyond the railway viaduct can CYFARTHFA IRONWORKS be muddy if it has rained. At its end, turn left past Farm, which sometimes operates as a café, and cross the Grade II listed bridge over the River Taff that featured as a location in an episode of the BBC’s ‘Merlin’. Climb steeply uphill, dismount and walk through the gloomy tunnel under the A470 turning sharply right soon after you emerge. A mile further on, pass under the A470 again and turn sharply left following the route along the hillside behind (25/45 miles).

The majority of colliery spoil heaps along the The remains of Cyfarthfa Ironworks alongside Taff Valley have been flattened and landscaped. the route just south of Merthyr Tydfil However, their disappearance will never erase memories of the that occurred on The massive archway across the waste ground bridges the gap in a bank of 21 October 1966 when a spoil heap collapsed and six iron furnaces built in the 1880s. They are all that remains of Cyfarthfa engulfed the school and neighbouring houses kill- Ironworks (1765–1926), which, at its peak in the early 19th century, was ing 116 children and 28 adults. The white arches a leading supplier of iron, cannon and cannon balls to the British Navy, in Bryntaf Cemetery on the hillside above the trail employing thousands of workers. mark the graves of children who lost their lives in Like much industry in South Wales, they were started by an outsider, the disaster. Anthony Bacon (1716–1786), a Cumbrian by birth who eventually part- nered with Richard Crawshay (1739–1810), a London iron merchant who Continue northwards, crossing minor roads that had previously acted as Bacon’s agent for supplying iron cannon to the occasionally snake up the hillside and pass under the Board of Ordnance. In the early 19th century, the output of Cyfarthfa was A4060 and through the village of Abercanaid. Follow the so critical to the success of the war effort that Horatio Nelson paid a per- path around the perimeter of a retail park on the outskirts sonal visit to the works in 1802 and the immensely wealthy Crawshay family of Merthyr Tydfil, passing under the A4102 and through incorporated a pile of cannonballs in its crest.Subsequent Crawshays built the town’s college campus. Cross the River Taff and turn Cyfarthfa Castle high above the town on the opposite bank of the River Taff immediately left towards Cefn-Coed-y-Cymmer along a which today houses the town’s museum and art gallery. If you wish to visit shared-use path. Follow this path alongside the river then it continue to follow Lôn Las Cymru northwards for a mile to Cefn-Coed-y- cross to Bethesda Street using the designated crossing on Cummer and then follow the brown tourist signs to the castle. the corner. Turn left along Bethesda Street and go over the River Taff and then Cyfarthfa Road at the designated

40 41 Cycling Lôn Las Cymru Stage 1 – Cardiff to Glasbury

Turn right along High Street in Cefn-Coed-y- between 1858 and 1862 to supply clean water for During the 1849 Cyummer and quickly left in Old Drill Hall Road. At Merthyr Tydfil which had suffered from repeated cholera cholera outbreak its end, follow the shared-use path to the left of St John epidemics. there were over the Baptist Church and then ride for three traffic and After 1½ miles, turn right immediately after crossing 1000 deaths in one junction-free miles alongside Taf Fechan (the little Taff) the Taff Fechan river and ride uphill past the picnic site. month alone. to emerge on a minor road in Pontsticill (35/35 miles). Turn left along the road at the end of this short trail, cross Turn left, cycle downhill passing under the railway bridge the cattle grid and continue climbing up and over the col before turning left across the 110ft-high embankment of at Torpantau. Descend for 450 metres, then turn right fol- the that since its completion in 1927 lowing marker signs into a conifer plantation. Enjoy this has been holding back 3400 million gallons of water. trail which runs downhill above the Talybont Reservoir for the next 5 miles giving fine views of the Brecon The narrow-gauge Brecon Mountain Railway runs Beacons across the valley. up the reservoir’s eastern side along part of the Cross the embankment at the northern end of route of the former standard gauge Brecon and Talybont Reservoir, turn right towards Brecon and enjoy Merthyr Railway. The railway, which was officially another 2 miles of downhill cycling. Shortly after Aber opened in 1863, was always financially stretched Village turn left towards Llanfrynach and continue down- but struggled on until 1962 when it was axed dur- hill to meet the B4558 at Cross Oak (48/22 miles). Turn ing the Beeching cuts. left towards Llanfrynach and then a mile later just as Looking west towards At present, the railway terminates at Torpantau you enter Pencelli, turn left towards Plas Pencelli. Turn the Brecon Beacons at the northern end of the Pentwyn Reservoir which left at the junction by the church in Llanfrynach then from the track above lies beyond the Pontsticill Reservoir to the north. continue until once again meeting B4558. Turn left Talybont Reservoir The terminus is just short of the southern entrance to the 610m-long Torpantau Tunnel, which at an elevation of 400m above sea level was the highest standard gauge tunnel in regular use anywhere in Great Britain. The trustees of the Brecon Mountain Railway have an ambition to extend their line through the tunnel. However its poor condition would make restoration costly. You can enjoy a 3-mile ride on the railway with your bike from Pontsticill station to Torpantau re- joining Lôn Las Cymru when you disembark. For timetables and fares, see www.bmr.wales.

Follow the road left at the end of the embankment. After 275 metres turn right towards Talybont-on-Usk, and The tarmac surface then after another 275 metres, turn left and follow the soon becomes trail through the Taf Fechan Forest.3At the end of the gravel but is mostly trail, turn left along the undulating road along the western well drained. shore of the Pentwyn Reservoir which was constructed

42 43 Cycling Lôn Las Cymru Stage 1 – Cardiff to Glasbury

Llandeilo Graban towards Brecon, then ⅓ mile later after first crossing the River Usk, turn left to follow the towpath alongside the Clyro and Brecon Canal all the way to Brecon Gwenddwr Erwood A438 (55/15 miles). Crickadarn Llanstephan y Llowes w Near the end of the canal, leave the towpath and G

n fo follow route signs along Canal Road and around Theatr A Ciltwrch / ye Llanigon Brycheiniog. Then turn right at the mini-roundabout in A470 W River Court Cwmbach Glasbury Rich Way and left at its end along Watton. Filter into the Boughrood 350 B4 middle lane as you reach the Brecon Museum and Art Llaneglwys Gallery and turn right into Free Street. Cross the ring road Llyswen Pipton Tregoyd Three Cocks at the traffic lights and ride up Cerrigcochion Road for A4079 Ponde ½ mile before turning right at the roundabout after the Felindre town’s leisure centre and then immediately left into a nar- 8 Llandefalle 7 fp 0 row lane. Bronllys 4 A Llanelieu Brecon Garthbrengy TALGARTH is a thriving little town that probably Felinfach became established due to it being one of the few Talachddu Llanfilo fu Trefeca A470 Tredomen

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B A 4 4 5 0 6 7 0 7 44 45 Cycling Lôn Las Cymru Stage 1 – Cardiff to Glasbury

places where the river could be forded. Its Welsh name – Aberhonddu – is derived from the River Honddu, which meets the River Usk near the town centre. The Normans built a castle on the hill and defensive walls around the town, but they were largely destroyed during the English Civil War. Once was absorbed into Powys in 1974, Brecon lost its status as county town but remains a thriving community with an important cattle market and plenty to entertain the large influx of tourists who flock into the area. Their numbers are boosted in early August when the town hosts the internationally acclaimed Brecon Jazz Festival. See www.breconjazz.org for details. Brecon lies at the north of the Brecon Beacons National Park. The park was established in 1957 and covers 519 square miles. It stretches from Llandeilo in the west to Hay-on-Wye in the north- east and Pontypool in the southeast. Talgarth. Turn left on to the B4560 and then after 200 The well-preserved Turn left a mile later after passing through the tunnel metres join the shared-use path. You can either stick to Norman and under the A470, then right 200 metres later. Turn right this path alongside the busy A470, before turning right medieval church again at the next junction and then a mile later turn left; towards Three Cocks or follow signs through the Talgarth in Llanfilo viewed all of these turns are indicated by route markers. Turn left town centre which has a working watermill and a 14th- through the lychgate at the end of this lane in front of an isolated house whose century defensive tower house. owners enjoy fine views of the Black Mountains. There is no route marker at this junction for those riding north- In the fifth century Talgarth was the residence of wards but look back once past Drostre Nature Reserve to Brychan, an Irish born prince who married Marchel, see one for those riding south. a Welsh heiress to become the King of Brycheiniog After ½ mile turn right into a narrow lane near a from which Brecon gets its name. According to leg- green agricultural building. Again the route marker at end, Brychan was married three times and fathered this junction is temporarily absent perhaps because it 22 sons and 24 daughters including Bilo to whom was attached to a telephone pole that has been recently the church at Llanfilo is dedicated. replaced. Go straight across the next junction, where route signs reappear and climb up the steep, southwest- Follow the shared-use path that runs alongside ern slope of Penyrallt before descending to Llanfilo (61/9 the A4078 for a mile outside the village then turn right miles). towards Felindre. Ride through Felindre and the hamlet Follow the road around the well-preserved church of Tregoyd a mile further on until you come to a promi- that is dedicated to a local saint named Bilo and ride nent blue fingerpost at a crossroads where NCR8 and down through the village before turning right towards NCR42 intersect. Turn left, following markers for NCR8

46 47 Cycling Lôn Las Cymru

towards Glasbury. After the bend, turn right again. Then after ¾ mile bear left. A mile later, turn right at the cross- STAGE 1A roads in Tyruched. Once you meet the A438, cross to the Chepstow to Glasbury shared-use path on the opposite carriageway and turn right to Glasbury. Start Chepstow Old Bridge (ST 536 944) NORTH TO SOUTH Finish Glasbury Bridge (SO 180 393) If riding north to south stock up on food in Brecon ready for the 25 miles to Distance 57 miles (91km) Merthyr Tydfil and use the NCR8 extension from Cardiff Bay to the station if Ascent 1500m you are taking the train. Time 9–10hrs OS maps OS Landranger 161, 162 and 171 Refreshments Chepstow, Shirenewton, Usk, Abergavenny, Llananthony, Hay-on-Wye and Glasbury. Accommodation Hostels only in Chepstow, near Abergavenny and in Glasbury but a good selection of B&Bs and hotels in the major centres.

Once you leave Chepstow you are immediately on quiet lanes through what remains of the ancient Wentwood before dropping down to follow the River Usk northwards to the pleasant market town of Abergavenny. Beyond that comes the delightful Vale of , which culminates in a short climb through the Gospel Pass – the highest in Wales – that gives breath-taking views northwards into central Wales and the English Marches. After an enjoyable descent through the literary town of Hay-on-Wye, it is easy riding to Glasbury.

Chepstow gets its name from the Old English chepe stowe, meaning a market place or trading place, and during the Middle Ages it was a major centre for importing wine from Europe and exporting tim- ber from nearby woodlands. As the larger ports of Cardiff, Swansea and Bristol became more promi- nent in the early 19th century, Chepstow’s impor- tance diminished. However, its picturesque loca- tion at the mouth of the River Wye meant trade was replaced with tourism which remains an impor- tant part of the town’s economy today. Old Wye

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