BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK AND CEDAR BREAKS NATIONAL MONUMENT • Contents

PANORAMA OF BRYCE CANYON FREE PUBLIC CAMPGROUNDS ... 10 Cover ACCOMMODATIONS 10 Bryce Canyon OF BRYCE CANYON TRANSPORTATION 12 NATIONAL PARK 4 SADDLE HORSES 12 How TO REACH THE PARK ... 8 POST OFFICE AND COMMUNICA­ NATIONAL PARK ROADS AND TRAILS 8 TION SERVICE 13 ADMINISTRATION 10 MISCELLANEOUS SERVICES .... 13 NATURALIST SERVICES 10 CEDAR BREAKS NATIONAL MON­ MUSEUM 10 UMENT 15

RYCE CANYON limestone. The character of the area Historic Events NATIONAL PARK in­ is well indicated by the Paiute Indian cludes some of the name, "Unka-timpe-wa-wince-pock- 1866 Capt. James Andrus in command of a military expedition from St. most interesting ex­ ich," which is translated as, "red rocks George, Utah, crossed the a few miles south of Bryce posures of the Pink standing like men in a bowl-shaped Canyon. Cliffs formation, canyon." The largest amphitheater is 1872 A. H. Thompson, geographer of the Powell Survey, sketched the whose rocks are 3 miles long and about 2 miles wide, topography of the Pink Cliffs eastward to Rainbow Point and among the most colorful of any and is filled with myriads of fantastic ascended Table Cliffs. Lt. W. L. Marshall, topographer, and G. K. forming the earth's crust. The major figures cut by weathering influences. Gilbert and E. E. Howell of the Wheeler Survey mapped, described, beauty spots of the area are found Its domes, spires, and temples are and illustrated for the first time the features of the park north of where forces of erosion have cut back decorated in all the colors of the Campbell Canyon. into the plateau, forming amphithe­ spectrum. 1874-76 Scattered settlements established in the Upper Paria Valley. Ebenezer aters or wide canyons filled with The area was reserved as Bryce Bryce, for whom the park is named, ranged cattle in the area. The pinnacles and grotesque forms. Canyon National Monument by region that includes Bryce Canyon National Park studied by Capt. Most of the park area, with some Presidential proclamation, June 8, C. E. Dutton. View from Sunset Point described (1876) by T. C. 30 miles of Pink Cliffs, can be seen 1923. The act of June 7, 1924, au­ from Rainbow Point, at the southern thorized its establishment as Utah Bailey, Deputy U. S. Surveyor. end of the park. Included in this pan­ National Park when certain condi­ 1877 Cannonville and Henrieville founded. orama are such beautiful amphithea­ tions regarding land acquisition had 1905 The , which includes the park, set aside as ters as Black Birch Canyon, Agua been met. The act of February 25, Powell National Forest. Canyon, and Willis Creek. In addi­ 1928, changed the name from Utah 1923 Bryce Canyon National Monument established by Presidential tion, there are magnificent views National Park to Bryce Canyon Na­ proclamation. across "the land of the purple sage" tional Park and materially increased 1924 Act of Congress authorized the establishment of Utah National to Navajo Mountain, 80 miles to the the size of the area. On September 15, Park, subject to extinguishment of private land titles. east, and to the Kaibab Plateau and 1928, when all alienated lands within 1928 Name changed from Utah National Park to Bryce Canyon National the Trumbull Mountains to the the proposed park area were trans­ Park; park established. south, the latter 99 miles distant. ferred to the United States, in accord­ In reality Bryce is not a canyon; ance with the act of June 7, 1924, rather it is a great horseshoe-shaped Bryce Canyon National Park was UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE bowl or amphitheater cut by water established. The park now embraces INTERIOR Douglas McKay, Secretary erosion into the Paunsaugunt Pla­ more than 36,000 acres under Federal teau and extending down a thousand ownership. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE . . . Conrad L. Wirth, Director feet through its pink and white marly Bryce Canyon National Park is one

3 of the areas of the National Park Sys­ are spectacular illustrations of ero­ tem owned by the people of the sion. They show with diagrammatic United States and administered for clearness the work of running water, them by the National Park Service, rain, frost, and wind, of ground water Department of the Interior. In these and chemical agencies active through­ areas the scenery and the objects of out a long period of time. The hori­ historic, prehistoric, and scientific zontal tables and benches, broken by interest are carefully preserved and vertical lines that in distant view ap­ displayed for public enjoyment. pear to dominate the landscape, are normal features of erosion of plateau Geology of Bryce Canyon lands in an arid climate. The tabular National Park1 forms are the edges and surfaces of hard strata from which softer layers Regional Features.—In. Zion and have been stripped. The vertical lines «*, mark the position of fractures •* Bryce Canyon National Parks the | type of scenery peculiar to the pla­ (joints)—lines of weakness which teaus of southern Utah and northern erosion enlarges into grooves and attains its most complete ex­ miniature canyons. As they entrench I pression. Layer upon layer of shales themselves in horizontal layers of « and sandstones have been carved into rock that vary in resistance to ero­ ej architectural forms, astonishingly sion, the master streams and their alike for size and color. The long tributaries are developing stairlike stretches of even skyline seen on ap­ profiles on their enclosing walls. 4 3 proaching the parks from Cedar City Cliffs in resistant rocks and slopes in b (west), Panguitch (north), and weak rock constitute risers and treads eq K (south) give an im- that vary in steepness and height with the thickness of the strata in­ ptession of extensive flat surfaces that .^5 terminate in lines of cliffs, but view­ volved. Thus near the south entrance points within the parks reveal a to Zion Park the edge of a layer of | ruggedness possessed by few other hard conglomerate is a vertical cliff, its top a platform. Above this plat­ E regions. The canyons are so narrow, 41 so deep, and so thickly interlaced, form a long slope of shale, broken by and the edges of the strata so continu­ many benches developed in hard i ously exposed that the region seems beds, extends upward to the great 4i5 made up of gorges, cliffs, and mesas cliff faces of West Temple and the i intimately associated with a marvel­ Watchman. In front of Zion Lodge a £ ous variety of minor erosion forms. slope of weak shales leads upward to The parks might be considered as a cliff of resistant sandstone above mountainous regions in which de­ which a slope of shale extends to the partures of many thousand feet from vertical wall of Lady Mountain. In a general surface are downward Bryce Canyon the rim road is on the rather than upward. highest tread of a giant rock stairway that, as viewed from Rainbow Point, The canyons and adjoining terraces leads downward in steps 30 to 400 'Condensed from "A Geologic and Geo­ feet high to the flat lands 3,000 feet graphic Skerch of Bryce Canyon National Park" by Herbert E. Gregory. below.

4 5 The streams at work in the parks, Canyon National Parks. Just as They have been converted into solid have removed many cubic miles of though relatively small, have steep Grand Canyon is the best known rock by the weight of layers above rocks, which, if replaced, would fill gradients, including rapids and water­ record of ancient geologic history, them and by lime, silica, and the iron the present canyons and build up falls, and are supplied with disinte­ records most clearly the that cement their grains. Embedded their bordering land to the level of grated rock material swept from the events of medieval geological time, in the rocks are fossil sea shells, fish, the lofty Markagunt and Paunsau­ ledges by torrential rains about as fast and Bryce reveals much of modern trees, snails, and the bones and tracks gunt Plateaus. The gigantic features as formed. They are therefore power­ geologic history. The story of Zion of land animals that sought their of Zion and Bryce Canyon National ful agents of erosion, especially in begins where that of Grand Canyon food on flood plains, in forests, or Parks mark a stage in the process of times of flood. The fresh, sharp, ends, and ends where Bryce begins. among sand dunes. The most con­ erosion that began long ago and angular profile of mesas, ridges, and The rocks exposed in these three na­ spicuous remains are those of dino­ which, if continued without inter­ canyon walls and the extensive areas tional parks incorporate the records saurs—huge reptiles that so domi­ ruption, will convert the present of bare rock are maintained by the of a billion years. nated the life of their time that the rugged landscape into plains near sea rapid down-cutting and prompt re­ A study of the rocks of Zion and Mesozoic is known as the "age of level. moval of rock waste. The resulting Bryce Canyon shows that during the dinosaurs." Distinctive Features of Bryce land forms reflect the aridity and the last 200,000,000 years the region com­ The accumulation of some 8,000 Canyon. — In its regional setting topographic youth of southern Utah prising the parks has witnessed many feet of strata (Mesozoic and Tertiary) Bryce Canyon National Park is the and contrast strongly with the changes in landscape and climate. At on top of 4,000 feet of older (Pale­ southeastern border of the extensive rounded hills, broad valleys, plant- times it was covered by the sea, at ozoic) beds, which are exposed in Paunsaugunt Plateau. It comprises covered slopes, and deep soils of other times broad rivers traversed its Grand Canyon, may be considered two areas of strongly contrasted to­ more humid regions. surface, and at still other times it was the first of three major events in the pography that meet in a line that Geologic History.— A large part of swept by desert winds. Most of the development of the marvelous land­ marks the rim of the plateau and the geologic history is revealed in the rocks were laid down by water as scapes of the Zion-Bryce region; it top of its bordering cliffs. Back from canyon walls of Zion and Bryce gravel, sand, mud, and limy ooze. provided the material from which the the rim the plateau surface on which huge scenic features were later carved. the park buildings and the automo­ The second event was a regional bile roads have been constructed is uplift which elevated the previously generally flat land traversed by broad, low-lying top beds of the series shallow valleys in which erosion is (Wasatch, Pink Cliffs) to a height of inconspicuous. Below the rim erosion nearly 2 miles above sea level. As a has produced a region of remarkable result of this movement, the earth's ruggedness. It might naturally be crust was broken into huge rectangu­ supposed that the beautiful amphi­ lar blocks by north-south fractures or theater at the head of Bryce Canyon faults. Three of these great faults can had been carved by waters pouring be seen in the vicinity of the parks: down from the plateau above. But the the Hurricane fault in the Hurricane plateau streams contribute nothing; Cliffs, west of Zion; the Paunsaugunt they flow away from the rim. The fault in the cliffs of Bryce; and the chief sculpturing agents are the rain Sevier fault along the Mount Carmel and snow that fall directly into the Road between the two parks. canyon. In producing the amazing In consequence of the uplift the variety of erosion features the streams third major event, the present cycle have been aided by frost that pries of erosion, was initiated. The streams fragments from the cliffs and by became strong and swift and so were chemical agencies that decompose the able to cut deeply into the underly­ rock and supply its vivid color. ing rock and carry away the land The development of the park land­ Generalized section of sediments in Zion and Bryce Canyons waste. In this process the streams scape was made possible by move-

6 7 ments within the earth's crust which miles south of the town of Pan- brought originally low-lying strata to guitch, Utah. From that junction it an altitude exceeding 8,000 feet. is 25 miles to the park. This road Streamways on the flat top of this follows Red Canyon, a brilliantly uplifted block were little affected, but colored little gorge which is often with greatly steepened gradients the mistaken for Bryce Canyon itself. streams around the borders of the The approach to Bryce is unusual; newly made plateau became power­ no evidence of the canyon is visible ful. The Paria and its swiftly flowing until the visitor walks to the rim and tributaries have cut deeply into the suddenly has revealed to him the face of the Paunsaugunt and carried great sight in all its breath-taking billions of tons of ground-up rock to beauty. Improved highways make the Colorado. At the present time Bryce Canyon National Park easily erosion by Bryce Creek,Yellow Creek, accessible except during the winter. Willis Creek, Podunk Creek, and Travelers by rail may reach the many smaller streams, is causing the park over the Union Pacific Railroad plateau face to retreat northwestward, to Cedar City, Utah, the gateway to and these streams are taking into their Zion, Bryce Canyon, and Grand Can­ drainage areas channels that formerly yon (North Rim) National Parks carried waters northward to Sevier and Cedar Breaks National Monu­ River. ment. Motor buses of the Utah Parks The drab-colored landscape along Co. operate to those areas. the southeast border of the park has Main bus lines operate from Salt been developed in alternating beds of Lake City and Los Angeles to Cedar shale, coal, and sandstone (Creta­ City, where passengers going to the ceous age); in the resulting erosion park may transfer to buses of the forms, slopes, mounds, rounded Utah Parks Co. On prior notice, con­ ridges, and valleys with inclined or nections may be made with the steplike sides predominate. The Santa Fe Trails System at Marysvale brightly colored rocks that form the or Panguitch. topmost cliffs and terminate abruptly United Air Lines serves Salt Lake in such headlands as Steamboat City, and from there passengers may Mountain, Bryce Point, and Rainbow go by Union Pacific Railroad or bus Point are resistant limestones of Ter­ to Cedar City. Air service is also tiary age (Wasatch formation). They available from Los Angeles by West­ erode as vertical walls (Pink Cliffs), ern Air Lines, with stops at Las which weathering has developed into Vegas, Cedar City, and Salt Lake the astonishing display of architec­ City. tural forms that make Bryce Canyon distinctive. Roads and Trails The National Park Service has How to Reach the Park completed an excellent road, 20 miles long, which follows the high In going to Bryce Canyon Na­ rim the full length of the park tional Park the motorist turns east plateau. Short spurs lead to such Bryce Canyon National Park from the main highway, U S 89, 7 scenic places as Inspiration Point,

8 9 Bryce Point, Paria View, Natural Museum Bridge, and Rainbow Point. At park headquarters the National The roads are open during the Park Service has established an official spring, summer, and fall. Those in information office and museum the vicinity of headquarters are kept which is open daily throughout the open throughout the winter, except main travel season. Here park visitors for brief periods during and immedi­ may secure information and free ately following storms. publications regarding this and other Fine horseback and foot trails have national parks. The museum exhibits been built in the interesting area cover such subjects as geology, biol­ under the rim. They lead into ogy, archeology, and history. The Queen's Garden, Silent City, Fairy­ Zion-Bryce Natural History Associa­ land, Wall Street, Peek-a-boo Can­ tion maintains a stock of publica­ yon, and other more remote points- tions, maps, and transparency slides each with its distinctive form. Trails which are for sale at reasonable prices are all easily traveled in good weath­ in the museum. They are designed er; horseback trips can be arranged in to assist in a better understanding half- or full-day units to suit the in­ and appreciation of the region. dividual. Inquiry should be made before attempting a trip, as stormy Free Public Campgrounds weather sometimes makes the condi­ tion of these trails uncertain. An attractive public auto camp, maintained by the Government, is Administration open from about April 15 to Novem­ ber 15; however, these dates vary ac­ Bryce Canyon National Park is ad­ cording to weather conditions. Pure ministered as a unit with Zion Na­ water and sanitary conveniences are tional Park and Cedar Breaks and provided, and groceries and campers' Zion National Monuments. The rep­ supplies may be purchased at the resentative of the National Park Serv­ Bryce Camp store. Camping is lim­ ice in immediate charge is the super­ ited to 30 days a year for each party. intendent, whose post office address For those not carrying their own is Springdale, Utah. All comments equipment and desiring to visit the regarding service in the park should park after the closing dates of the be addressed to him. lodge and camp, there are camps near the park where accommodations can Naturalist Services be found at any time of the year. Each evening illustrated talks are Accommodations given by members of the staff, who also conduct short hiking trips into An attractive lodge is operated by Bryce Canyon every day of the sum­ the Utah Parks Co. from about June mer season, according to schedules 15 to September 10. It consists of a posted by the naturalist service. central building and cabins. The Visitors are urged to use these cabins are standard and de luxe types, facilities, which are provided free of the latter having private bath, porch, charge by the Government. and fireplace. Roads connecting Bryce Canyon, Zion, Grand Canyon, and Cedar Breaks

10 11 made into the canyon and to Tower Miscellaneous Services Bridge. Special guide service, if avail­ able, may also be obtained. Fountain service is available in the lodge. Photographs of Bryce may be purchased here, and laboratories are maintained for developing and print­ Post Office and Communication ing. Service Curio stores, specializing in Indian handicraft, are operated. Curios, post Bryce Canyon Lodge is provided cards, and other items may be ob­ with post office, telegraph, and long­ tained at the cabin camps, which-also distance telephone service. The post carry a complete line of foodstuffs. office address during the summer Garage service, including storage season when the lodge is operating is and repairs, is provided near Bryce Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah. Lodge during the main season. A

Bryce Canyon Lodge (Union Pacific Railroad photo)

Meals are served in the lodge and Grand Canyon (North Rim) dining room. National Parks, Kaibab National There is also a cabin development Forest, and Cedar Breaks National which is open from about May 15 to Monument are furnished by Utah October 15. Here are available a cafe­ Parks Co., Cedar City, Utah, during teria, food store, and sleeping cabins. the summer season and by special ar­ The cabins are equipped with elec­ rangement during the remainder of tricity, running water, double beds, the year. An automobile trip from table, sink, shelves, and chairs. Bryce Canyon Lodge to Inspiration As prices are subject to change Point, Bryce Point, Paria View, Nat­ from season to season, no rates are ural Bridge, and Rainbow Point and included in this booklet, but they return is offered during the summer. may be obtained from the Utah Parks Co., Cedar City, Utah. Saddle Horses Transportation Saddle horses may be hired by the Motorbus transportation and all- Trails lead to the fantastically eroded formations (Union Pacific Railroad photo) expense tours to Zion, Bryce Canyon, hour or day. Daily escorted trips are 13 12 regular service starion, located on the The Utah Parks Co. has provided highway near the lodge, furnishes a comfortable lodge with an attractive gasoline, oil, tires, and batteries from dining room, lobby, and rest rooms. approximately May 1 to October 30. Sleeping accommodations are avail­ Garages and service stations outside able in cabins operated in connection the park usually operate throughout with the lodge. Cedar Breaks Lodge the year. is open from about June 15 to Sep­ A registered nurse is on duty at tember 10. the lodge when it is in operation. A free public campground is main­ tained where water, cooking fire­ Cedar Breaks National Monument places, and fuel are furnished. The season of accessibility varies Twenty miles east of Cedar City, with weather conditions, but is within the , usually from early June to the first of where the high plateau breaks away November. On account of the high to the west, is a great amphitheater altitude, snows persist until late called Cedar Breaks, in the Pink Cliffs spring. During the summer season, formation. The more spectacular part the National Park Service maintains of the formation was established as a an information office and small mu­ national monument by proclamation seum near the parking area at Point of President Franklin D. Roosevelt Supreme. on August 22,1933, and placed under the administration of the National Park Service. The monument em­ braces an area of 6,172.20 acres of federally owned land. While Cedar Breaks is cut from the same geological formation as Bryce Canyon, there is a marked difference between these two scenic areas. There are not countless numbers of out­ standing temples, spires, and minarets in the Cedar Breaks bowl, but Cedar Breaks is on a more gigantic scale and has a greater variety of tints. The Pink Cliffs here have a thickness of nearly 2,000 feet, and 47 different shades of color have been distin­ guished. The heavily forested rim attains an altitude of 10,700 feet. The cliffs are white or orange at the top, breaking into tints of deep rose and coral. The high elevation also affords an ex­ cellent distant view of mountains and Motorists park on overlook for view of Cedar Breaks desert. Cedar Breaks

14 15 "Let no one say, and say it to your shame, That all was beauty here until you came."

National parks are established "to and through the park provided it is conserve the scenery and the natural at all times kept on leash or other­ and historic objects and the wildlife wise under physical restrictive con­ therein and to provide for the enjoy­ trol. Pets are not permitted in public ment of the same in such manner buildings or on trails. and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of Trails. —Do not attempt to make future generations." Please cooperate short cuts; to do so you may en­ in maintaining and protecting this danger yourself as well as others park. The following observations are using the trails. Before attempting made for your guidance: more difficult trails seek advice from Preservation of Natural Fea­ a park ranger. tures.—Trees, flowers, vegetation, rocks, mineral formations, or any Automobile Regulations. —(a) animal, bird, or other life may not be Permit.— A charge of $1 for each disturbed, injured, or destroyed; and automobile is made at Bryce Canyon formations, rocks, and other natural and Zion National Parks. One per­ features may not be defaced by writ­ mit is good for both parks, and may ing, carving, or otherwise marring be used during the remainder of the them. Since the park is a sanctuary year in which issued. Trailer fee, $1 for wildlife, hunting and the use of additional. firearms are prohibited. (b) Careful driving. —The roads in Camping.—Camp only in estab­ the park are built purely for scenL lished campgrounds. Keep your purposes, not as high-speed thor­ camping area clean. BE CAREFUL oughfares. Observe speed limits and WITH FIRE. Lunching and picnicking the usual rules of the road; keep to are permitted only in public auto right; do not park on curves; pass camp. cars going in the same direction only Disorderly Conduct. — Proper when the road ahead is clear and the conduct is required of all visitors for vision unobstructed. The speed limit the benefit of others who are entitled in the par- is 35 miles per hour. to get the fullest possible enjoyment Park Rangers.—The park rangers from the park. are employed to help and advise Pets.—If you are carrying a dog, visitors as well as to enforce regula­ cat, or other pet, you may take it into tions. When in doubt, ask a ranger. For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Government U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE Printing Office, Washington 25, D. C—Price $5.75 per 100 copies REPRINT 1955 O-F —335972 BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK AND CEDAR BREAKS NATIONAL MONUMENT • UTAH