©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Western USA
WA
MT Paci ic ND ort est p353
OR Roc y ID ountains SD p70 WY
NV NE CA UT
Sout est CO Cali ornia p142 KS p239
OK AZ NM
TX
Anthony Ham, Amy C Balfour, Becky Ohlsen, Robert Balkovich, Greg Benchwick, Andrew Bender, Alison Bing, Celeste Brash, Stephanie d’Arc Taylor, Michael Grosberg, Ashley Harrell, John Hecht, Adam Karlin, MaSovaida Morgan, Christopher Pitts, Andrea Schulte-Peevers PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
Welcome to ROCKY Grand Canyon Western USA...... 4 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 70 National Park ...... 177 Western USA Map...... 6 Around the Colorado ...... 74 Western USA’s Grand Canyon...... 185 Top 25...... 8 Denver...... 75 Northern & Need to Know...... 20 Boulder ...... 84 Eastern Arizona ...... 186 Accommodations. . . . . 22 Northern Mountains. . . . . 90 Western Arizona...... 188 Central Colorado...... 94 If You Like ...... 24 Southern Arizona. . . . . 189 Southern Colorado . . . . 101 Month by Month...... 27 Around Tucson...... 192 Wyoming ...... 111 Southeastern Arizona. . . 194 Itineraries ...... 31 Cheyenne...... 111 Utah ...... 195 Route 66 & Scenic Drives ...... 36 Laramie...... 113 Salt Lake City...... 196 Outdoor Activities. . . . 45 Lander...... 114 Park City & Wasatch Mountains. . . . 201 Eat & Drink Jackson...... 115 Like a Local...... 55 Cody...... 117 Northeastern Utah. . . . . 204 Family Travel...... 63 Yellowstone Moab & Southeastern Utah ...... 206 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 67 National Park ...... 118 Grand Teton Zion & National Park ...... 123 Southwestern Utah. . . . 211
ANDREW MONTGOMERY/LONELY PLANET © Montana...... 126 New Mexico...... 215 Bozeman & Albuquerque...... 216 Gallatin Valley...... 127 Along I-40...... 220 Billings...... 129 Santa Fe...... 220 Helena...... 129 Around Santa Fe...... 226 Missoula...... 131 Northwestern Whitefish...... 132 New Mexico...... 231 Glacier National Park . . . 133 Northeastern New Mexico...... 232 Idaho ...... 136 Southwestern Boise...... 136 New Mexico...... 232 BURGER AT FARMSTEAD, ST Ketchum & HELENA P331 Southeastern Sun Valley...... 138 New Mexico...... 235 Stanley...... 140 GETTYIMAGES © SKY NOIR PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL DICKINSON/ CALIFORNIA. . . . . 239 SOUTHWEST. . . . . 142 Los Angeles...... 242 Nevada...... 146 Southern Las Vegas...... 146 Californian Coast. . . . 267 Around Las Vegas . . . . . 157 Disneyland & Western Nevada...... 157 Anaheim...... 267 The Great Basin...... 160 Orange County Beaches...... 270
Arizona...... 160 San Diego ...... 271 Phoenix ...... 161 Palm Springs Central Arizona...... 169 MOTORCYCLISTS ON & the Deserts...... 281 ROUTE 66 P36 Contents
UNDERSTAND
Palm Springs...... 282 Gold Country...... 340 Western USA Joshua Tree California’s Northern Today ...... 412 National Park ...... 284 Mountains...... 341 History...... 414 Anza-Borrego Sierra Nevada...... 343 Desert State Park...... 286 Way of Life...... 424 Mojave Native Americans. . . . 427 National Preserve...... 287 PACIFIC NORTHWEST. . . . . 353 Arts & Architecture. . . 431 Death Valley National Park ...... 288 Washington...... 357 Land & Wildlife. . . . . 437 Central Coast...... 289 Seattle...... 357 Olympia...... 371 Santa Barbara...... 289 SURVIVAL Santa Barbara to Olympic Peninsula. . . . . 371 San Luis Obispo...... 292 Northwest Washington. . . 375 GUIDE San Luis Obispo...... 293 San Juan Islands ...... 376 Morro Bay to North Cascades...... 378 Directory A–Z...... 444 Hearst Castle ...... 294 Northeastern Transportation . . . . . 452 Big Sur...... 296 Washington...... 380 Carmel-by-the-Sea ...... 297 South Cascades...... 382 Index...... 463 Monterey...... 298 Central & Southeastern Map Legend...... 477 Santa Cruz ...... 300 Washington...... 383 San Francisco & Oregon...... 384 the Bay Area...... 302 Portland...... 385 San Francisco...... 302 Willamette Valley...... 395 Marin County ...... 327 Columbia River Gorge. . . . 397 Berkeley...... 328 Oregon Cascades...... 398 Northern California. . . 329 Oregon Coast...... 402 Wine Country...... 329 Southern Oregon...... 407 North Coast...... 334 Eastern Oregon...... 409 Sacramento...... 338
SPECIAL FEATURES Route 66 & Scenic Drives...... 36 Outdoor Activities. . . . 45 Western USA’s National Parks...... 88 West Coast Beaches. . . 108 Alcatraz 3D Illustration . . . . . 316 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 31
Itineraries É [Ù12 Arches National Park ÷# Moab •#
NEVADA Canyonlands ÷# National Park UTAH
É
É
VUÓ15 •#
É Monument Valley Valley of Fire State Park ÷# Las É Vegas •# •# Hover Dam Grand Canyon ÷# National Park ARIZONA
É
É
CALIFORNIA
2 WEEKS Best of the Southwest
Cameras get a workout on this tour, which spotlights the most iconic sites in the South- west. You’ll loop past the region’s most famous city, its biggest canyon and its most breathtaking red-rock scenery. Start in Las Vegas and spend a few days traveling the world on the Strip. Partied out? Swoop east past Hoover Dam, then say hello to the Grand Canyon. Spend two days exploring America’s most famous park. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, descend from the South Rim into the chasm on a mule and spend the night at Phantom Ranch on the canyon floor. From the Grand Canyon head northeast to Monument Valley, with scenery straight out of a Hollywood Western, and then to the national parks in Utah’s southeast corner – they’re some of the most visually stunning in the country. Hike the shape-shifting canyons of Canyonlands National Park, mountain bike slickrock outside Moab, or take a photo of Balanced Rock in Arches National Park. Drive west along a spectacular stretch of pavement, Hwy 12, until it hooks up with I-15. Swing south for a sunset meditation at Valley of Fire State Park, before heading back to Las Vegas. 32
CANADA Seattle •# WASHINGTON ÷# Mt Rainier National Park Portland •# •#Columbia River Gorge RMt Hood MONTANA PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN SistersR É OREGON •#Crater Lake Redwood National •# IDAHO & State Parks ÷# Ashland •#Arcata Eureka •# WYOMING P A C I F I C Lost Coast •# Mendocino •# O C E A N É NEVADA Napa &
It •#Sonoma Valleys San Francisco•# i nerar UTAH Santa Cruz•# COLORADO •#Monterey Big Sur •# •#Hearst Castle
i es San Luis Obispo•# CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara •# É •# Channel Islands •#Los Angeles Laguna Beach•# NEW San Diego•# ARIZONA MEXICO
MEXICO
4 WEEKS Winding Down the West Coast
Hug a tree, surf a wave and taste the deliciousness of West Coast fare on this nature- lover’s trip, which ribbons from Seattle to San Diego. Kick off with a fresh-roasted coffee in java-loving Seattle and check out the city’s sprawling food markets, microbreweries and waterfront. Heading south, visit Mt Rainier National Park, where superb hiking trails and relaxing inns nestle beneath the snow-covered peak. Continue to the cutting-edge city of Portland, known for its sprawling parks, eco-minded residents and progressive urbanism – plus food carts, cof- feehouse culture and great nightlife. Wonder at waterfalls and indulge in fresh roadside produce with a scenic drive east along the Columbia River Gorge, then turn south to get to Mt Hood for winter skiing or summer hiking. Further adventures await at the Sisters, a trio of 10,000ft peaks, and the striking blue waters of Crater Lake. Catch a Shakespearian play in sunny Ashland, then trade the mountains for the foggy coast. Enter California via Hwy 199 and stroll through the magnificent old-growth forests in Redwood National and State Parks. Hug the coast as it meanders south through funky Arcata and seaside Eureka, lose yourself on the Lost Coast, and catch Hwy 1 through quaint Mendocino, where the scenic headlands and rugged shoreline make a wander mandatory. For wine tasting with a photogenic backdrop, travel inland to the rolling vineyards of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, then, suitably provisioned, continue south to romantically hilly San Francisco. Return to scenic Hwy 1 through surf-loving Santa Cruz, stately bayfront Monterey and beatnik-flavored Big Sur. In no time, you’ll reach the surreal Hearst Castle and laid- back, collegiate San Luis Obispo. Roll into Mediterranean-esque Santa Barbara for shopping and wine tasting then hop aboard a ferry in Ventura to the wildlife-rich Chan- nel Islands. The pull from Los Angeles is strong. Go ahead – indulge your Hollywood fantasies then stroll the rugged hills of Griffith Park, followed by a cruise through LA’s palm-lined neighborhoods. After racking up a few sins in the City of Angels, move south to wander the bluffs of Laguna Beach then cruise into picture-perfect San Diego. 33