©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Western USA

WA

MT Paciic ND ortest p353

OR Rocy ID ountains SD p70 WY

NV NE CA UT

Soutest CO Caliornia p142 KS p239

OK AZ NM

TX

Anthony Ham, Amy C Balfour, Becky Ohlsen, Robert Balkovich, Greg Benchwick, Andrew Bender, Alison Bing, Celeste Brash, Stephanie d’Arc Taylor, Michael Grosberg, Ashley Harrell, John Hecht, Adam Karlin, MaSovaida Morgan, Christopher Pitts, Andrea Schulte-Peevers PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to ROCKY Grand Canyon Western USA...... 4 MOUNTAINS. . . . . 70 National Park ...... 177 Western USA Map...... 6 Around the Colorado ...... 74 Western USA’s Grand Canyon...... 185 Top 25...... 8 Denver...... 75 Northern & Need to Know...... 20 Boulder ...... 84 Eastern Arizona ...... 186 Accommodations. . . . . 22 Northern Mountains. . . . . 90 Western Arizona...... 188 Central Colorado...... 94 If You Like ...... 24 Southern Arizona. . . . . 189 Southern Colorado . . . . 101 Month by Month...... 27 Around Tucson...... 192 Wyoming ...... 111 Southeastern Arizona. . . 194 Itineraries ...... 31 Cheyenne...... 111 Utah ...... 195 Route 66 & Scenic Drives ...... 36 Laramie...... 113 Salt Lake City...... 196 Outdoor Activities. . . . 45 Lander...... 114 Park City & Wasatch Mountains. . . . 201 Eat & Drink Jackson...... 115 Like a Local...... 55 Cody...... 117 Northeastern Utah. . . . . 204 Family Travel...... 63 Yellowstone Moab & Southeastern Utah ...... 206 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 67 National Park ...... 118 Grand Teton Zion & National Park ...... 123 Southwestern Utah. . . . 211

ANDREW MONTGOMERY/LONELY PLANET © Montana...... 126 New Mexico...... 215 Bozeman & Albuquerque...... 216 Gallatin Valley...... 127 Along I-40...... 220 Billings...... 129 Santa Fe...... 220 Helena...... 129 Around Santa Fe...... 226 Missoula...... 131 Northwestern Whitefish...... 132 New Mexico...... 231 Glacier National Park . . . 133 Northeastern New Mexico...... 232 Idaho ...... 136 Southwestern Boise...... 136 New Mexico...... 232 BURGER AT FARMSTEAD, ST Ketchum & HELENA P331 Southeastern Sun Valley...... 138 New Mexico...... 235 Stanley...... 140 GETTYIMAGES © SKY NOIR PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL DICKINSON/ . . . . . 239 SOUTHWEST. . . . . 142 ...... 242 Nevada...... 146 Southern Las Vegas...... 146 Californian Coast. . . . 267 Around Las Vegas . . . . . 157 Disneyland & Western Nevada...... 157 Anaheim...... 267 The Great Basin...... 160 Orange County Beaches...... 270

Arizona...... 160 San Diego ...... 271 Phoenix ...... 161 Palm Springs Central Arizona...... 169 MOTORCYCLISTS ON & the Deserts...... 281 ROUTE 66 P36 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Palm Springs...... 282 Gold Country...... 340 Western USA Joshua Tree California’s Northern Today ...... 412 National Park ...... 284 Mountains...... 341 History...... 414 Anza-Borrego Sierra Nevada...... 343 Desert State Park...... 286 Way of Life...... 424 Mojave Native . . . . 427 National Preserve...... 287 PACIFIC NORTHWEST. . . . . 353 Arts & Architecture. . . 431 Death Valley National Park ...... 288 ...... 357 Land & Wildlife. . . . . 437 Central Coast...... 289 Seattle...... 357 Olympia...... 371 Santa Barbara...... 289 SURVIVAL Santa Barbara to Olympic Peninsula. . . . . 371 San Luis Obispo...... 292 Northwest Washington. . . 375 GUIDE San Luis Obispo...... 293 San Juan Islands ...... 376 Morro Bay to North Cascades...... 378 Directory A–Z...... 444 ...... 294 Northeastern Transportation . . . . . 452 Big Sur...... 296 Washington...... 380 Carmel-by-the-Sea ...... 297 South Cascades...... 382 Index...... 463 Monterey...... 298 Central & Southeastern Map Legend...... 477 Santa Cruz ...... 300 Washington...... 383 San Francisco & Oregon...... 384 the Bay Area...... 302 Portland...... 385 San Francisco...... 302 Willamette Valley...... 395 Marin County ...... 327 Columbia River Gorge. . . . 397 Berkeley...... 328 Oregon Cascades...... 398 Northern California. . . 329 Oregon Coast...... 402 Wine Country...... 329 Southern Oregon...... 407 North Coast...... 334 Eastern Oregon...... 409 Sacramento...... 338

SPECIAL FEATURES Route 66 & Scenic Drives...... 36 Outdoor Activities. . . . 45 Western USA’s National Parks...... 88 West Coast Beaches. . . 108 Alcatraz 3D Illustration . . . . . 316 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 31

Itineraries É [Ù12 Arches National Park ÷# Moab •#

NEVADA Canyonlands ÷# National Park UTAH

É

É

VUÓ15 •#

É Monument Valley Valley of Fire State Park ÷# Las É Vegas •# •# Hover Dam Grand Canyon ÷# National Park ARIZONA

É

É

CALIFORNIA

2 WEEKS Best of the Southwest

Cameras get a workout on this tour, which spotlights the most iconic sites in the South- west. You’ll loop past the region’s most famous city, its biggest canyon and its most breathtaking red-rock scenery. Start in Las Vegas and spend a few days traveling the world on the Strip. Partied out? Swoop east past Hoover Dam, then say hello to the Grand Canyon. Spend two days exploring America’s most famous park. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, descend from the South Rim into the chasm on a mule and spend the night at Phantom Ranch on the canyon floor. From the Grand Canyon head northeast to Monument Valley, with scenery straight out of a Western, and then to the national parks in Utah’s southeast corner – they’re some of the most visually stunning in the country. Hike the shape-shifting canyons of Canyonlands National Park, mountain bike slickrock outside Moab, or take a photo of Balanced Rock in Arches National Park. Drive west along a spectacular stretch of pavement, Hwy 12, until it hooks up with I-15. Swing south for a sunset meditation at Valley of Fire State Park, before heading back to Las Vegas. 32

CANADA Seattle •# WASHINGTON ÷# Mt Rainier National Park Portland •# •#Columbia River Gorge RMt Hood MONTANA PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN SistersR É OREGON •#Crater Lake Redwood National •# IDAHO & State Parks ÷# Ashland •#Arcata Eureka •# WYOMING P A C I F I C Lost Coast •# Mendocino •# O C E A N É NEVADA Napa &

It •#Sonoma Valleys San Francisco•# i nerar UTAH Santa Cruz•# COLORADO •#Monterey Big Sur •# •#Hearst Castle

i es San Luis Obispo•# CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara •# É •# Channel Islands •#Los Angeles Laguna Beach•# NEW San Diego•# ARIZONA MEXICO

MEXICO

4 WEEKS Winding Down the West Coast

Hug a tree, surf a wave and taste the deliciousness of West Coast fare on this nature- lover’s trip, which ribbons from Seattle to San Diego. Kick off with a fresh-roasted coffee in java-loving Seattle and check out the city’s sprawling food markets, microbreweries and waterfront. Heading south, visit Mt Rainier National Park, where superb hiking trails and relaxing inns nestle beneath the snow-covered peak. Continue to the cutting-edge city of Portland, known for its sprawling parks, eco-minded residents and progressive urbanism – plus food carts, cof- feehouse culture and great nightlife. Wonder at waterfalls and indulge in fresh roadside produce with a scenic drive east along the Columbia River Gorge, then turn south to get to Mt Hood for winter skiing or summer hiking. Further adventures await at the Sisters, a trio of 10,000ft peaks, and the striking blue waters of Crater Lake. Catch a Shakespearian play in sunny Ashland, then trade the mountains for the foggy coast. Enter California via Hwy 199 and stroll through the magnificent old-growth forests in Redwood National and State Parks. Hug the coast as it meanders south through funky Arcata and seaside Eureka, lose yourself on the Lost Coast, and catch Hwy 1 through quaint Mendocino, where the scenic headlands and rugged shoreline make a wander mandatory. For wine tasting with a photogenic backdrop, travel inland to the rolling vineyards of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, then, suitably provisioned, continue south to romantically hilly San Francisco. Return to scenic Hwy 1 through surf-loving Santa Cruz, stately bayfront Monterey and beatnik-flavored Big Sur. In no time, you’ll reach the surreal Hearst Castle and laid- back, collegiate San Luis Obispo. Roll into Mediterranean-esque Santa Barbara for shopping and wine tasting then hop aboard a ferry in Ventura to the wildlife-rich Chan- nel Islands. The pull from Los Angeles is strong. Go ahead – indulge your Hollywood fantasies then stroll the rugged hills of Griffith Park, followed by a cruise through LA’s palm-lined neighborhoods. After racking up a few sins in the City of Angels, move south to wander the bluffs of Laguna Beach then cruise into picture-perfect San Diego. 33

anaa Glacier ÷# P A C I F I C asIntn National Park O C E A N •#

Missoula TRIP YOUR PLAN ntana

É Bozeman •# ren Ia Yellowstone National Park ÷# Grand Teton •#Cody National Park ÷# •#

Jackson Hole É •# Lander In It

i nerar É

Rocky Mountain neaa ta ÷# National Park •# Boulder i es •# Breckenridge Ouray É aIrnIa •# •# Salida Telluride •# •# Silverton ra •# Durango arIna ne eI

3 WEEKS Rocky Mountain High

Pack your bathing suit, mountain bike and hiking boots for this high-altitude cruise atop the Continental Divide; it’s big skies, big peaks and big wildlife the whole way. Spend your first two days enjoying craft beers and singletrack mountain-biking trails in Durango, a fine mountain town. From here, take the Million Dollar Hwy (Hwy 550) north through the San Juan Mountains, sightseeing in Silverton and dipping into hot springs in Ouray. Take a side trip to Telluride for a festival – there’s one almost every weekend in summer. From Montrose, drive east on Hwy 50 to the Arkansas River Valley and white-water rafting through Brown’s Canyon National Monument in Salida. Hwy 24 continues past Colorado’s tallest peaks; finish your first week in style with an over- night stay in historic Breckenridge. Enjoy tubing, happy hour and people-watching in funky Boulder, then twist up to Rocky Mountain National Park to hike and horseback ride. While here, drive the thrilling Trail Ridge Rd up above the treeline. Continue north on I-25. In Wyoming, take I-80 west to Hwy 287; follow this highway to Lander for rock climbing. Continue north to Jackson Hole, another fun gateway town. Anchored by a central park surrounded by chic stores and cowboy bars, it’s a good place to relax, indulge in a gourmet meal or spend the night before rafting the Snake River. From here, it’s an easy glide north into Grand Teton National Park, a scenic spot for a lazy lake day and bison photo ops. Next up is mighty Yellowstone National Park, where geysers, bears and hiking are highlights. Start your last week with a drive to Cody in the west for a taste of Buffalo Bill and Wyoming cowboy life, then head north on the gorgeous Beartooth Hwy, following it into Montana then hooking onto I-90 west to Bozeman and Missoula; both are good places to stock up before the final push. Glacier National Park is a place to visit now – there are still some 26 glaciers hanging tight, but they may not be there for long. Scan for wild- life on a hike, then end with a drive on the stunning Going-to-the-Sun Road.

SERGEY DIDENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; ARCHITECT: JULIA MORGAN Alcatraz Hearst Castle Castle Hearst Top: (p295), Central California Bottom: Francisco San (p316), BLAZG/SHUTTERSTOCK © 34 35

Glacier anaa É National Park Seattle•# ÷# asIntn É Portland •# •#Columbia River Gorge ntana PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Bend •# Ia É ren #÷ Yellowstone Redwood National Grand Teton #÷ National Park & State Parks #÷ National Park aIrnIa P A C I F I C neaa É In

O C E A N É

Yosemite ta It •# National Park •#Boulder

San rancisco i nerar #÷ •# Denver Sequoia & Mesa Verde

É Kings Canyon National Park ra

Big Sur •# National Park É #÷ Death Valley #÷Great Sand Hearst Castle•# National Park #÷ Dunes #÷ •# National Park i es Las egas #÷Grand Canyon Santa Barbara•# National Park •#Taos

É •# Santa e

Los Angeles•# Disneyland •# •# É •# •# Orange County Meteor Crater Albuuerue San Diego•# arIna ne eI eI

4 WEEKS Western US Grand Tour

This lasso loop corrals the best of the West as it rolls north along the California coast, cruises through the lush landscapes of the Pacific Northwest, the alpine towns of the Rockies and the glowing red-rock beauty of the Southwest, with a final swing back into California for a hit-parade tour of the state’s national parks. From sunny San Diego, follow Hwy 1 north through the surf-loving coastal villages of Orange County, detouring to Disneyland before driving into shiny Los Angeles. Con- tinue up the coast on scenic Hwy 1, stopping to shop and sample wine in glossy Santa Barbara. Gawk at gawdy Hearst Castle then continue north through woodsy Big Sur. Dine and shop then wander through Alcatraz in bohemian San Francisco. Return to Hwy 1 for the quirky towns dotting the northern California coast. View the big trees in Redwood National and State Parks and continue into Oregon, taking time for outdoor fun in Bend. Soak in the greenery while traveling west along the Columbia River Gorge, then spend a few days savoring brews and views in Portland. Zip up the Space Needle in Seattle and drive east into wide-open Montana, heading for the outdoor wonders of Glacier National Park. Continue south into Yellowstone National Park where Old Faithful blasts regularly, and sightseers brake for buffalo, bison, bears and, if you’re lucky, wolves. Swoosh below majestic peaks in Grand Teton National Park before swinging southeast through Wyoming’s vast cowboy plains. In Colorado, breathe deep in outdoorsy Boulder then uncover current hot spots in burgeoning Denver. The mining towns of central Colorado are next, followed by Great Sand Dunes National Park and Mesa Verde National Park. Just south in New Mexico, artist meccas Taos and Santa Fe are fab stops for one-of-a-kind gifts. Slurp green chile in Albuquerque and follow Route 66 west into Arizona, stopping at Meteor Crater before detouring north for Grand Canyon National Park. Continue west to Las Vegas, then drive into central California for Death Valley National Park and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, concluding with . Complete the loop with a glass of Californian wine in San Francisco. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 460

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

WRITER THANKS Greg Benchwick This book wouldn’t be possible without my family. Amy C Balfour Dad, Mom, Cara, Bry and little baby Violeta. Love Thank you Brandon Dekema and Christy you guys. Thanks to the beautiful editors, cartog- Germscheid for your Enchanted Circle tips raphers and whole team at Lonely Planet for mak- and Angel Fire hospitality! Thanks also to Todd ing an amazing book. And to the on-the-ground Norman, Matt Redington, John White, Marty people that helped along the way, like Chris at Robertson, Elizabeth Edgren, Charise May and Pine Needles in Durango and the lovely Sara. Ellen McBee. Much obliged for the meet-up and the Central New Mexico suggestions, Michael Celeste Brash Benanav – all right on! Thank you to my talented Thanks to my husband Josh and my kids who co-writers – to Chris Pitts for the New Mexico have come with me on so many Oregon trips background – and editors, and cheers to Ben over the years. And to many friends old and Buckner for this awesome assignment. new that helped out this time around, including Ticari, Chris & Ashley, Nathan, Dana, Jon & Kara, Becky Ohlsen Ron & Nisa, Elizabeth, Pattye, Rachel Cabakoff, I would like to thank editor Ben Buckner for the Amanda Castleman, Dave Nevins, Amy Hunter, gig, Celeste Brash for her work on the previous all my LP co-authors and Ben Buckner for seeing edition, Paul Smith for being a great travel this through. companion, and all the dedicated volunteers at the many wonderful tiny museums, state Stephanie d’Arc Taylor parks, national parks and campgrounds visited As always, I don’t do anything without support along the way. and inspiration from Queen Xtine. My home team: Maya G, A&E, Daniel and Danielle. Carlo, Robert Balkovich grazie. The friendly park rangers at Great Basin Thank you, as always, to my friends and family and staff at Kerouac’s (I’m not stalking you, for your continued support while I run hither promise). That guy at Napa Auto Parts in Lone and thither and yon. Special thanks to Karin, for Pine. At LP: Ben Buckner, Lauren Keith, Alicia sharing your love of Seattle with me and setting Johnson, Martine Power and Sasha Drew for me off on the right foot, and to Lynae for the your attention. Thanks to my late father for wonderful home away from home where I made showing me the calm beauty of the Basin & many great memories. Range. 461 Michael Grosberg Adam Karlin Many thanks to all those who shared their Thanks to Ben Buckner for adding me to the experiences, knowledge and deep passion for team, and to Rachel, Sanda and Isaac for your Glacier, Whitefish and Waterton including Brian ceaseless love and support. Schott, Greg Fortin, Riley Polumbus, Rhonda Fitzgerald, Chris Schustrom, Cricket Butler, Christopher Pitts

BJ Elzinga, Marc Ducharme, Michelle Gaudet, Thanks to the inordinately kind people of Arizo- SCENES THE BEHIND Kimmy Walt, Angel Esperanueva and Monica na, in particular my Mom, Michael and Maddie Jungster. And to Carly, Rosie, Willa and Boone in Scottsdale, and Ellen and Norman for their for keeping in touch while in the wilderness. great tips. In Cochise Stronghold, thanks to Tolin for leading the way on the Sheepshead. At Ashley Harrell home, bises as always to my dearest partners in Thanks to: editors Sarah Stocking and Martine crime, Perrine, Elliot and Celeste. Power, along with my co-authors, for their hard work on this book; Freda Moon for the advice on Mendocino; Amy Benziger for putting up ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS with my research detours in Tahoe (and in gen- Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson eral); the nice Norwegian couple who stopped BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of in Sequoia to pick up two dirty hitchhikers, the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- and Steven Sparapani and Osa Peligrosa, for ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. joining me on an epic road trip across 3,000 Illustration pp316-17 by Michael Weldon. awe-inspiring miles of Northern California. Cover photograph: Sunset at McDowell Sonoran John Hecht Preserve, Scottsdale, Arizona; Tom Mackie/AWL Many thanks to all the kind folks in Utah who Images © offered their help, be that in the brewpubs, on the trails or wherever else our paths may have crossed. I also want to thank destination editor Ben Buckner, the book’s co-writers and my lovely wife Lau for all their support. 462 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Nate Cavalieri, Michael Gros- Bamber, Katie Connolly, THIS BOOK berg, Ashley Harrell, Carolyn Sam Cook, Melanie Dankel, This 5th edition of Lonely McCarthy, Becky Ohlsen, Barbara Delissen, Andrea Planet’s Western USA guide- Christopher Pitts, Liza Prado, Dobbin, Carly Hall, Gabrielle book was curated by Anthony Josephine Quintero, Andrea Innes, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Ham, Amy C Balfour, Becky Schulte-Peevers, Helena Martire, Lou McGregor, Rosie Ohlsen and Lauren O’Connell, Smith, John A Vlahides, Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, and researched and written by Benedict Walker and Clifton Kristin Odijk, Susan Pater- Anthony, Amy, Becky, Robert Wilkinson. This guidebook was son, Monique Perrin, Mani Balkovich, Greg Benchwick, produced by the following: Ramaswamy, Sarah Reid, Andrew Bender, Alison Bing, Destination Editors Ben Monica Woods Celeste Brash, Stephanie d’Arc Buckner, Sarah Stocking Assisting Cartographer Taylor, Michael Grosberg, Ash- Senior Product Editors Rachel Imeson ley Harrell, John Hecht, Adam Martine Power, Vicky Smith Assisting Book Designer Karlin, MaSovaida Morgan, Regional Senior Fergal Condon Christopher Pitts and Andrea Cartographer Alison Lyall Cover Researcher Meri Schulte-Peevers. The previous Joel Cotterell Blazevski edition was written by Hugh Product Editor Megan Bell, Han- McNaughtan, Brett Atkinson, Book Designer Gwen Cotter Thanks to nah Cartmel, Linda de Vos, Loren Bell, Greg Benchwick, Cartographer Valentina Sasha Drew, Bailey Freeman, Andrew Bender, Sara Benson, Kremenchutskaya Andi Jones, Kate Kiely, Trisha Alison Bing, Cristian Bonetto, Assisting Editors Judith Ping, Angela Tinson Celeste Brash, Jade Bremner, ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 463

Index

A Arcata 337 National Museum of Basque Block 136 Abiquiu 227 Arches National Park 209 Wildlife Art 115 bathrooms 450 accessible travel 444 architecture 435-6 Nevada Museum of Bay Area 305 Art 158 accommodations 22-3 Taliesin West 162 Marin County 326-8 New Mexico Museum of Acoma Pueblo 220 area codes 21, 449 Berkeley 328-9 Art 225 activities 45-54, see also Arizona 160-95 San Francisco 9, 302-27, Northwest Museum of individual activities history 160-1 Arts & Culture 381 305, 306, 308-9, 9 air travel tourist information 161 Norton Simon Museum B&Bs 22-3 airport shuttles 458 Arizona State University 162 253 beaches 108-9, 108-9 airports 452-3 Arkansas River 100 Palm Springs Art Museum Balboa Peninsula 270-1 travel to/from Western art museums & galleries 282 Cannon Beach 404 USA 452-3 Asian Art Museum 303 Phoenix Art Museum 162 Hermosa Beach 255 travel within Western USA Aspen Art Museum 97 Portland Art Museum Huntington Beach 270, 454-5 Balmy Alley 311 385, 387 109 Alamogordo 236 Broad 243 San Diego Museum of Laguna Beach 271 Albuquerque 216-20 Art 275 Chihuly Garden & Glass La Jolla 276, 109 Alcatraz 316-17, 318, , San Francisco Art Insti- 34 359 Lake Tahoe 352 316-17 tute 307 Clarion Alley 311 San Francisco Museum of altitude sickness 446 Clyfford Still Museum 255 Modern Art 302-3 amusement parks 76-8 Mission Beach 276 Santa Fe 228 Belmont Park 276 Crested Butte Center for Muir Beach 327 Disneyland 267-8 the Arts 101 Schneider Museum of Art 407 Natural Bridges State Knott’s Berry Farm 269 Dairy Arts Center 84 Beach 300 Seattle Art Museum 358 Knott’s Soak City 269 Denver Art Museum 75 Newport Beach 270-1 Santa Cruz Beach de Young Museum 312 Tucson Museum of Art 190 Ocean Beach 276 Boardwalk 300 Diego Rivera Gallery 307 Wing Luke Museum of the Pacific Beach 276 Universal Studios 265, Frederick R Weisman Art 17 Asian Pacific American Pfeiffer Beach 296 Foundation 249 Anaheim 267-70 Experience 359 Pismo Beach 292 Gallery of Fine Art 147 animals 440-2, see also arts 430, 431-6 Rodeo Beach 327 wildlife reserves, Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Ashland 407-9 individual species 221 Santa Cruz 300, 109 Aspen 97-8 Antelope Canyon 186 Getty Center 249 Aspen Center for Environ- 255, 108 Apache people 427 Hallie Ford Museum of mental Studies 97 Seal Beach 270 aquariums Art 396 Astoria 402-4 Steamer Lane 49, Aquarium of the Pacific Harwood Museum of 109 ATMs 447 252 Art 229 Surfrider Beach 255 Avila Beach 293 Birch Aquarium at Scripps Laguna Art Museum 271 Tourmaline Surfing 277 Los Angeles County Aztec Ruins National Park 277 Monument 231 Monterey Bay Aquarium Museum of Art 249 bears 441, 14 298 MOCA Grand 245 Bears Ears National Oregon Coast Aquarium Museum of Indian Arts & B Monument 205 405 Culture 225 badlands 439 Beartooth Highway 40-1 Seattle Aquarium 364 Museum of International Bandelier National Monu- beer 18, 26, 59, 61, 18, see Folk Art 225 ment 227 also breweries Museum of Latin Barney Ford Museum 94-5 festivals 27 American Art 252 Map Pages 000 baseball teams 425 Seattle 367 Museum of New Mexico Photo Pages 000 basketball teams 425 Bellingham 375-6 225 464 Bend 400-2 Ecliptic Brewing 393 Canyon de Chelly National Grace Cathedral 307 Berkeley 328-9 Fieldwork Brewing Monument 18, 187-8 Mission Basilica San Big Sur 296-7 Company (Berkeley) canyoneering 52-4 Diego de Alcalá 276 Billings 129 329 Canyonlands National Park Mission Dolores 311 Billy the Kid National Fieldwork Brewing 209-10, 89 Mission San Carlos Borro- Scenic Byway 237 Company (Sacra- Cape Blanco Lighthouse meo de Carmelo 298 mento) 339 INDEX INDEX bird-watching 407 Mission San Xavier del Fifty Fifty Brewing Capitan 237 Bac 193 Boulder 212 Co 352 Patagonia-Sonoita Capitol Reef National Old Mission Santa Firestone Walker Brewing Park 211 Barbara 289 B- Scenic Road 170 Company 295  Capitol Reef Scenic Drive 211 Salt Lake Temple 197 C Bisbee 195 Fisher Brewing Company  Capulin Volcano National San Felipe de Neri Bishop 350 199 Monument 232 Church 216 bison 441-2 Four Peaks Brewing Carlsbad 238 San Francisco de Asís Bixby Creek Bridge 297 Company 168 Carmel-by-the-Sea 297-8 Church 229 Bluff 210-11 Fremont Brewing car travel 456-8 Tabernacle 197 boat travel 454, 455 Company 367 driver’s licences 457 Cimarron 232 Bodega Bay 334-5 Island Hoppin’ Brewery 378 insurance 457 cinema 434-5 Bodie State Historic Park City Lights Books 306-7 349 June Lake Brewing 349 rental 456-7 Clark, William 417 Boise 136-8 Marble Brewery 219 road rules 458 climate 20, 413 Book of Mormon, the 200 Mt Hood Brewing Co 399 casinos climate change 442 booking services 23 Ninkasi Brewing Bellagio 147 Cloudcroft 236 books Company 397 Caesars Palace 147 cocktails 62 animals 440 Snake River Brewing Cosmopolitan 149-50 Co 117 Cody 117-18 best 412 LINQ Casino 147 Taos Mesa Brewery 230 coffee 62 California architecture Mandalay Bay 150 436 Terminal Gravity Brewing NoMad 147 Coit Tower 304, 306 410 geology 440 Paris Las Vegas 150 Colorado 74-111 Truth or Consequences history 414, 415, 421 Venetian 147, 149 tourist information 75 Brewing Co 233 Native American 430 cathedrals, see churches & Colorado River 185 Überbrew 129 Seattle 432 cathedrals Colorado Springs 100-1 Bright Angel Point 184 Wyoming 425 caving Colosseum 147 Bryce Canyon National border crossings 453-4 Oregon Caves National Columbia River Gorge 16, Park 15, 213, 15 Monument & Preserve 397-8, Mexico 454 16 budget 21 409 Columbia State Historic Boulder 84-7 buffets 154 347 Park 341 Boulder Creek 84 Burning Man 27, 160, 425 Cayucos 295 consulates 445 Boulder (Utah) 212 bus travel 455-6, 458 cell phones 20, 449 Craters of the Moon Bozeman 127-9 business hours 21, 448 Chaco Culture National National Monument & Breaking Bad 217, 219, 435 Historical Park 232 Preserve 140 Breckenridge 94-5 Cheyenne 111-13 credit cards 448 C breweries 18 children, travel with 63-5 Crescent City 338 Cabrillo National Monu- Anderson Valley Brewing Crested Butte 101-2 ment 276 accommodations 22 Company 336 Crissy Field 310-11 California 68, 239-352 Albuquerque 219 Aspen Brewing Co 98 cross-country skiing accommodations 239 Los Angeles 265 Blu Dragonfly Brewing Grand Teton National children, travel with 65 Phoenix 163 232 Park 123 climate 239 Portland 389 Bonito Valley Brewing Methow Valley 380 Co 237 culture 424 Salt Lake City 198 Royal Gorge 352 Broken Compass food 56-7, 239 San Francisco 323 cruises 454 Brewing 95 geology 437, 438 Seattle 364 culture 424-6 Cider Riot 393-4 highlights 240-1, Chimayó 229 240-1 currency exchange 448 Cloudburst Brewing 367 history 242, 421-3 Chiricahua National Monument 195 Custer, George 130 Cloudcroft Brewing itineraries 243 churches & cathedrals Custer’s Last Stand 130 Co 236 travel seasons 239 Church of San José de customs regulations 444-5 Culmination Brewing Cambria 295 393 Gracia 43 cycling 46-8, 455, 458 Cameron 187 El Santuario de Chimayó Bellingham 375 camping 45-6, 346 229 Grand Canyon National Map Pages 000 Cannon Beach 404-5 Glide Memorial United Park 179 Photo Pages 000 canoeing 49, 51 Methodist Church 303 465 Grand Teton National E geology 24, 437-40, see Highway 12 41-2, 214 Park 125 earthquakes 437 also volcanic sites hiking 24-5, 46, 51 Hood River 398 Earthships 229, 436 Georgia O’Keeffe Welcome Albuquerque 217 Center 227 Los Angeles 255 El Capitan 344 Arches National Park Getty Villa 250-1, Monterey Bay 299 El Morro National 10 209 Olympic Discovery Monument 220 ghost towns Avalanche Lake Trail

Trail 374 electricity 445 Garnet Ghost Town 131 134-5 INDEX Portland 389, 390 embassies 445 Mormon Row 123 Borrego Palm Canyon Nature Trail 286 Salida 99 emergencies 21 Rhyolite 290 Camelback Mountain 163 San Diego 273 Empire Mine State Historic Gila Cliff Dwellings  C-H Santa Fe 221 Park 340 National Monument Canyonlands National  Park 210 235 Seattle 363 environmental issues Springdale 215 413, 442 Glacier National Park 14, Cape Perpetua Scenic 133-6, Area 406 Tucson 190 Escalante 212-13 14 Chiricahua National Estes Park 91-2 Glacier Point 344 Vail 96 Monument 195 etiquette 55, 428 Going-to-the-Sun Road 43, 134, 42 Death Canyon Trail 124 Eugene 396-7 D Gold Country 340-1 Denver 79 Eureka 337 dangers, see safety Golden Gate Bridge 307 Eagle Cap Wilderness events 27-30 Dead Horse Point State Gorda 296 410 exchange rates 21 Park 210 Grand Canyon National Galena Creek Recreation Area 158 Death Valley National Park Park 10, 177-85, 180- 288-9 1, 10 Grand Canyon National F Park 179, 184 dehydration 446 Farmington 231 geology 439 Grand Teton National Denver 75-84, 76-7 Ferry Building 9, 303, Grand Canyon of the 9 Park 123, 124-5 accommodations 78-9 festivals 27-30 Yellowstone 119-20 Highline Trail 134 activities 75-8 film festivals 27, 435 Grand Coulee Dam 382 Horseshoe Bend 186 drinking & nightlife 80-1 film studios 253 Grand Staircase-Escalante Indian Canyons 282 entertainment 81-2 films 412 National Monument 212 festivals & events 78 Grand Teton National Park Joshua Tree National fishing Park 284-5 123-7, 124 food 79-80 Bodega Bay 334 Great American Beer Kings Canyon National shopping 82 John Day River 409 Park 347 sights 75-8 Festival 27 Flagstaff 19, 173-6, 174 Lake Powell 186 tourist information 82-3 Great Basin 160 Flaming Gorge National Great Plains 440 Lake Tahoe 351 travel to/from 83 Recreation Area 206 Los Angeles 254 travel within 83-4 Great Sand Dunes National food 26, 55-62 Park 110-11 Maidenhair Falls Trail Dinosaur National California 56-7 286 Monument 205-6 Green River 206 carts 392 Griffith Observatory 248 Marin Headlands 327 disabilities, travelers with Pacific Northwest 57 Mesa Verde National 444 grizzly bears 441, 14 Rocky Mountains 59 Park 106 Disneyland 267-70 grunge music 368, 433-4 Southwest 57 Methow Valley 380 Disneyland Resort® 267 football teams 425 Moab 207 distilleries Forks 375 H Mojave National Pre- Santa Fe Spirits 224 Fountains of Bellagio 147 Haight Street 311 serve 287 diving 53 Fremont Troll 359 Halloween 27 Mount Sentinel 131 Monterey Bay 299 Havasupai Canyon Mt Baker 379 San Diego-La Jolla 185-6 Mt Hood 399 Underwater Park 276 G Havasupai people 427 Mt Rainier National Park drinks 59, 61-2, see also Gallatin Valley 127-9 Healdsburg 332-4 382-3 beer galleries, see art museums health 445-6 Mt Tamalpais State driver’s licences 457 & galleries Park 327 Hearst Castle 295, 34 driving, see car travel Gamble House 253 Olympia National Park heat exhaustion 446 driving tours, see road gardens, see parks & 372-3 heatstroke 446 trips & scenic drives gardens Olympic Discovery Dunsmuir 342 Garnet Ghost Town 131 Heceta Head Lighthouse Trail 374 406 Durango 107-10 gay travelers 447 Oregon Coast Trail 404 Helena 129-31 Durango & Silverton Los Angeles 263 Petroglyph National Hells Canyon 410 Narrow Gauge San Francisco 325 Monument 217 Henry Miller Memorial Railroad 107 General Sherman Tree 349 Pictograph Trail 286 Library 296 geography 437-40 Portland 389 High Roller 150 466 hiking cont’d colonisation 416 I Las Vegas 16, 146-57, Ridge to Rivers Trail European settlement 416 Idaho 136-41 148, 16 System 137 first inhabitants 414-16 immigration 412, 452 accommodations 152-3 Saguaro National Park gold rush 420 insurance drinking & nightlife 192-3 154-5 Hollywood 422 car 457 Santa Fe 221 entertainment 155-6 Lewis & Clark 417 health 445

INDEX INDEX Sequoia National Park food 153-4 Long Walk 418-19 travel 446 347 sights 146-51 Native American people internet access 446-7 South Rim Trail 122 Las Vegas (New Mexico) 414-16 internet resources 21 Standish-Hickey State H-L New Mexico 215-16 226-7  Recreation Area 336 itineraries 31-3, 35, Pacific Northwest 356 Lava Beds National

see also individual  Taos 228 Monument 342-3 Rocky Mountains 71, 74 locations Tuolumne Meadows 344 Leavenworth 379 Silicon Valley 422-3 Whitefish 132 legal matters 447 Southwest 143 Yellowstone National J Leggett 336 Utah 195-6 Park 121 Jackson 115-17 Lewis & Clark 403, 417 Wild West 419 Yosemite National Park Jacksonville 409 Lewis, Merriweather 417 344 WWII 420-1 Jenner 335 LGBTIQ+ travelers 447 Zion National Park 214 Hoh River Rainforest 372 Jerome 170 Los Angeles 263 hip-hop 433 holidays 448-9 jewelry 430 San Francisco 325 Hiram M Chittenden Locks Hollywood 434 John Day Fossil Beds lighthouses 362 Hollywood Forever National Monument Cape Blanco Lighthouse historic sites 25, 26 Cemetery 248 409 407 Audrey Headframe Hollywood sign 247 Heceta Head Lighthouse Park 170 Hollywood Walk of Fame 406 Cable Car Museum 307 247 K Kanab 213-14 Point Arena Lighthouse Chapin Mesa 106 hoodoos 439 Kartchner Caverns State 335 Hood River 397-8 Jerome State Historic Park 194 Point Bonita Lighthouse Park 170 Hoover Dam 157 kayaking 49, 51 327 Lewis & Clark National Hopi people 427-8 Bellingham 375-6 Umpqua Lighthouse Historical Park 403 Hopi Reservation 187 406-7 Jenner 335 Lincoln Historic Site 237 horseback riding 53 Lincoln 237 Lake Powell 186 Little Bighorn Battlefield Great Sand Dunes literature 431-2 National Monument Lake Tahoe 352 National Park 111 Little Bighorn Battlefield 130 Las Vegas 151 Grand Teton National National Monument 130 National Mendocino 335 Park 126 live music 155 Historic Site 350 Monterey Bay 299 Phoenix 163 lodges 23 Monterey State Historic Portland 389 Saguaro National Park Lombard Street 307 Park 298 192 San Diego 277 Lompoc 292 Old Town San Diego State hot springs & spas Seattle 363 Historic Park 275-6 London, Jack 432 Esalen Institute Hot Kayenta-Monument Valley Lone Pine 350 Palace of the Governors Springs 296 170 & New Mexico History Lopez Island 378 Finnish Country Sauna & Ketchum 138-40 Museum 225 Los Alamos 227 Tubs 337 Kingman 188-9 Riordan Mansion State Grand Prismatic Spring Los Angeles 10, 242-67, Historic Park 173 Kings Canyon National 119 Park 346-8 244-5 San Juan Island National Ojo Caliente Mineral accommodations 255-62 Historical Park 377 Kitt Peak National Springs Resort & Spa Observatory 193 activities 253-5 This is the Place 227-8 Beverly Hills 249, 257, Heritage Park 197-8 Orr Hot Springs 338 263 Wetherill Mesa 106 Ouray Hot Springs 102 L children, travel with 265 history 414-23 380 Qua Baths & Spa 151 Downtown 243-6, 255-6, Apache Conflicts 418-19 Lake Crescent 372 Strawberry Park Hot 258-60, 262, 265, Arizona 160-1 Springs 92 Lake Mead 157 250-1 California 242, 421-3 Sycamore Mineral Lake Powell 186 drinking & nightlife Civil Rights Movement Springs 293 Lake Quinault 372 262-4 421 Hovenweep National Lake Tahoe 350-2 entertainment 264-5 Monument 211 Lander 114-15 Exposition Park 246-7 Hualapai people 428 Laramie 113-14 festivals & events 255 Map Pages 000 Hualapai Reservation 186 Las Cruces 233-4 food 258-62 Photo Pages 000 hypothermia 446 Griffith Park 248 467 Hollywood 247-8, 256, Meow Wolf 221 Mulholland Dr 256 Grammy Museum 245 260-1, 262-3, 254 Mesa Verde National Park Multnomah Falls 397 Hatfield Marine Science itineraries 247 106-7, 5 museums, see also art Center 405 Long Beach 252, 257, mesas 439 museums & galleries Heard Museum 162 262, 264 Methow Valley 380 Albuquerque Museum High Desert Museum Malibu 250-1 Million Dollar Highway 40, 216 400

Mid-City 248-9, 256-7, 41, 102 American International History Colorado INDEX 261, 258-9 Mirage Volcano 150 Rattlesnake Museum Center 78 216 Pasadena 252-3, 257-8, Mission Bay 273 Hollywood Museum 248 262, 265-6 Anasazi State Park Hubbard Museum of the Mission San Juan  L-M Museum 212 Santa Monica 251-2, Capistrano 270 American West 236

 Arizona Museum of 257, 261-2, 263-4, Mission San Xavier del Huntington Library, Art Natural History 163 260, 108 Bac 193 Collections & Botani- Arizona State Museum cal Gardens 253 shopping 265-6 Missoula 131-2 189-90 Idaho State Museum 137 sights 242-53 Moab 16, 207-9, 16 Arizona-Sonora Desert Indian Pueblo Cultural tourist information 266 mobile phones 20, 449 Museum 189 Center 216 tours 255 Autry Museum of the International UFO travel to/from 266-7 287 American West 248 Museum & Research travel within 267 money 20, 21, 445, 447-8 Battleship Iowa 252 Center 238 Venice 252, 262, 260 Mono Lake 349 Beat Museum 307 Japanese American West Hollywood 248-9, Montana 126-36 Blair-Caldwell African National Museum 245 256-7, 261, 263, 265, tourist information 126 American Museum 78 John Wesley Powell River 258-9 Monterey 298-300 Bradbury Science History Museum 206 Westside, the 249 Monument Valley Navajo Museum 227 Junípero Serra Museum Los Angeles Memorial Tribal Park 18, 188, 18 Buffalo Bill Center of the 276 Coliseum 246 Mormon Row 123 West 117-18 Klondike Gold Rush Lost Coast 336 Mormon Tabernacle Choir Burke Museum 362 National Historical Lowell Observatory 173, 19 200 Cable Car Museum 307 Park 359 Morro Bay 294-5 California Academy of La Brea Tar Pits & Museum 249 motorcycle travel 456-8 Sciences 312 M LA Plaza 245-6 magazines 450 driver’s licences 457 California Museum 339 Los Alamos Historical Mammoth Lakes 349 insurance 457 California Science Center 247 Museum 227 Marin County 327-8 rental 457 Chapin Mesa Museum Makah Museum 374-5 Marin Headlands 327 road rules 458 106 Maritime Museum 271 markets mountain biking 48 Children’s Museum Martínez Hacienda 228-9 Albuquerque 217 Boulder County Farmers Denver Marisco Meow Wolf 221 Market 85 Bend 400 Campus 75-6 Military Museum 403 Grand Central Market Cloudcroft 236 Church History Museum Millicent Rogers Museum 258-9 Crested Butte 101 197 228 Liberty Public Market Flagstaff 173 Clark Planetarium 197 Mini Time Machine of 276 Lake Tahoe 352 Columbia River Maritime Museum of Miniatures Olympia Farmers Market Leavenworth 379 Museum 403 193 371 Mesa 163 Contemporary Jewish Mob Museum 150 Original Farmers Market Museum 303 Moraine Park Discovery 261 Moab 207, 16 Courthouse Museum 237 Center 90 Pike Place Market Santa Fe 221 Telluride 104 Denver Museum of MOXI 290 358, 13 Nature & Science 78 Yellowstone National Museum of Ancient Rose Bowl Flea Market Discovery 158 Life 199 265-6 Park 121 mountain climbing 95 Exploratorium 303-4 Museum of Indian Arts & Santa Monica Farmers Culture 225 Markets 261-2 Mt Baker 379 Fleet Science Center 274 Fort Walla Walla Museum Museum of New Mexico Saturday Market Mt Hood 398-9, 23 225 (Eugene) 396 384 Mt Hood Railroad 397 Museum of Northern Saturday Market Francis Ford Coppola Mt Rainier National Park Winery 333 Arizona 173 (Portland) 387 382-3 Frontier Days Old West Museum of Pop Culture Marshall Gold Discovery Mt Shasta City 342 359 State Historic Park 340 Museum 111-12 Mt St Helens National Geological Museum 113 Museum of the African measures 450 Volcanic Monument Diaspora 303 Getty Villa 250-1, 10 medical services 445-6 383 Museum of the GLBT History Museum Los Angeles 266 Muir Woods National Rockies 127 325 Mendocino 335-6 Monument 327 468 museums cont’d White Sands Missile Test Lassen Volcanic National Chaco Culture National Museum of Tolerance Center Museum 234 Park 343 Historical Park 232 249 Wing Luke Museum Mesa Verde National Chapin Mesa 106 Musical Instrument of the Asian Pacific Park 106-7, 5 El Morro National Museum 162 American Experience Mt Rainier National Park Monument 220 National Atomic Testing 359 382-3 Gila Cliff Dwellings Wyoming Territorial

INDEX INDEX Museum 151 Mt St Helens National National Monument National Automobile Prison 113 Volcanic Monument 235 Museum 158 music 368, 433-4 383 Monument Valley Navajo National Scouting festivals 27, 104 Natural Bridges National Tribal Park 18, 188, 18 M-O Museum 232 Monument 211 Navajo National  Newberry National Monument 187

Natural History Museum  of Los Angeles 247 N Volcanic Monument Newspaper Rock State Napa Valley 330-1 Natural History Museum 402 Historic Monument of Utah 197 national parks 24, 47, 88-9, North Cascades National 213 88-9 Neon Museum - Neon Park 380 Petroglyph National Boneyard 150-1 Arches National Park Monument Archaeo- 209 New Mexico Farm & 372-3 logical Site 216-17 Ranch Heritage Bears Ears National Oregon Dunes National Taos Pueblo 231 Museum 233-4 Monument 205 Recreation Area 406-7 Wetherill Mesa 106 New Mexico Museum of Bryce Canyon National Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Zuni Pueblo 220 Park 15, 213, 15 Space History 236 Preserve 194 Natural Bridges National Northwest Museum of Canyonlands National Petrified Forest National Monument 211 Park 209-10, Arts & Culture 381 89 Park 188 Navajo Nation 186-8 Capitol Reef National Oregon Historical Pinnacles National Navajo National Park 211 Society 385 Park 296 Monument 187 Carlsbad Caverns Pacific Science Center Red Rock Canyon Navajo people 428-9 364 National Park 238 National Conservation Nevada 146-60 Palace of the Governors Channel Islands National Area 157 Newberry National Volcanic & New Mexico History Park 293 Redwood National Park Monument 402 Museum 225 Crater Lake National 337-8, 88 New Mexico 215-38 Pima Air & Space Park 402 Rocky Mountain National history 215-16 Museum 190 Craters of the Moon Park 14, 90-1, 14 Plains Indian Museum 118 National Monument & Saguaro National Park tourist information 216 Portland Children’s Preserve 140 11, 192-3, 11 Newport 405 Museum 388 Death Valley National Sequoia National Park Newspaper Rock State San Diego Air & Space Park 288-9 346-8 Historic Monument 213 Museum 275 Dinosaur National Sunset Crater Volcano newspapers 450 San Diego Natural Monument 205-6 National Monument nightclubs 155 History Museum 275 Flaming Gorge National 178 Nirvana 368 Santa Cruz Surfing Recreation Area 206 Yellowstone National Museum 300 Gila National Forest 235 Park 9, 118-23, 120, Seymour Marine Glacier National Park 14, 8, 89 O Discovery Center 300 133-6, 14 Yosemite National Park Oak Creek Canyon 170 Sharlot Hall Museum 169 Grand Canyon National 13, 343-6, 13, 89 observatories Smokejumper Visitor Park 10, 177-85, Zion National Park 15, Griffith Observatory Center 131 180-1, 10 214-15 248 Surfing Museum 270 Grand Staircase- Native American people 13, Kitt Peak National Escalante National Observatory 193 Thomas Condon 26, 427-30 Monument 212 Paleontology Center arts 430 Lowell Observatory 409 Grand Teton National etiquette 428 173, 19 Park 123-7, Titan Missile Museum 193 124 history 414-16 Ojo Caliente 227-8 Great Sand Dunes Turtle Bay Exploration museums 162, 173, 212, O’Keeffe, Georgia 221, 227 National Park 110-11 Park 341 216, 225, 228, 381 Old Faithful 119 Hovenweep National USS Midway Museum Native American sites Old Town Scottsdale 162 Monument 211 271, 273 Acoma Pueblo 220 Olympia 371 John Day Fossil Beds Utah Field House of Olympic Peninsula 371-5 National Monument Aztec Ruins National Natural History State Monument 231 opening hours 21, 448 Park Museum 205 409 Joshua Tree National Bandelier National Orange County 270-1 Park 284-6 Monument 227 orcas 54, 15 Canyon de Chelly Map Pages 000 Kings Canyon National Orcas Island 377-8 Park 346-8 National Monument Oregon 384-410 Photo Pages 000 187-8 469 Oregon Caves National Red Butte Garden 198 festivals & events 390 Rim Road Scenic Drive Monument & Preserve Riverfront Park 381 food 391-2 213 409 Rose Garden 246 shopping 394 Route 66 19, 36-8, Oregon Coast Trail 404 San Francisco Botanical sights 385-9 189,, 2 Oregon Dunes National Garden 312 tourist information 395 Turquoise Trail 44 Recreation Area 406-7 Sunnylands 282 tours 390 rock climbing 52-4

Oregon Shakespeare This is the Place Castle Rock 379 INDEX Festival 408 travel to/from 395 Heritage Park 197-8 El Capitan 344 Oregon State Capitol 396 travel within 395 Tilden Regional Park 328 Ouray Ice Park 103 Organ Mountains-Desert Port Orford 407

Tom McCall Waterfront Smith Rock State Park  O-S Peaks National Monu- Port Townsend 373-4 Park 385 401 postal services 448  ment 237 Washington Park 388 rock music 433 Ouray 102-3 pottery 430 passports 452 Rocky Mountain National outdoor activities 45-54 Powell St Cable Car Park 14, 90-1, Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Turnaround 303 14 Preserve 194 Rocky Mountains 67, 70-87 Prescott 169-70, 39 Petrified Forest National accommodations 70 P public holidays 448-9 Pacific Coast Highway 11, Park 188 children, travel with 64 public transportation 458 38-9, 11 Petroglyph National Mon- climate 70 ument Archaeological Pueblo people 415, 429 Pacific Northwest 68, culture 425 Site 216-17 353-410 food 59, 70 Phoenix 161-9, 164-5 accommodations 353 Q geology 440 children, travel with 65 photography 448 Quandary Peak 95 highlights 72-3, 72-3 climate 353 Pike Place Market 358, 13 itineraries 71 culture 424-5 Pikes Peak 100 travel seasons 70 food 57, 353 Pioneer Courthouse R radio 450 travel to/from 74 geology 439-40 Square 385 Pioneertown 285 Railtown 1897 State travel within 74 highlights 354-5, 354-5 Historic Park 341 Roswell 238 itineraries 356 Pismo Beach 292 Red Rock Canyon National Route 66 19, 36-8, 189, 2 travel seasons 353 planning Conservation Area 157 Ruidoso 236-7 travel to/from 357 accommodations 22-3 Red Rocks Park & Russian River Valley 332-4 travel within 357 budgeting 21 Amphitheatre 82 calendar of events 27-30 RV travel 457 Palace (saloon) 170, 39 Redding 341 family travel 63-5 Palm Springs 282-4 religion 413, 426 internet resources 21 Palm Springs Aerial Reno 157-60 S Tramway 282 itineraries 31-3, 35 Rim Road Scenic Drive 213 Sacramento 338-40 Park City 201-4 outdoor activities 45-54 Rio Grande Gorge Bridge safety 449 228 parks & gardens travel seasons 20 Los Angeles 266 Rivera, Diego 307 Alton Baker Park 396 Western USA basics 20-1 Saguaro National Park 11, road trips & scenic drives Balboa Park 273-4 Western USA’s regions 192-3, 11 67-8 36-44, 37 Boise River Float 137 sailing 290 Point Arena 335 Apache Trail 44 Boise River Greenbelt Salem 396 Arizona 170 136 Point Arena Lighthouse Salida 98-100 335 Beartooth Highway 40-1 Cape Perpetua Scenic Salt Lake City 196-201 Area 405-6 Point Bonita Lighthouse Billy the Kid National Salt Lake Temple 197 327 Scenic Byway 237 Chautauqua Park 84 Salton Sea 288 Point Reyes National Capitol Reef Scenic Confluence Park 75 Salvation Mountain 288 Seashore 328 Drive 211 Conservatory & same-sex marriage 426 Point Sur State Historic Eastern Sierra Scenic Botanical Gardens 147 Park 297 Byway 44 San Diego 271-81, 272, Desert Botanical Garden politics 412-13, 426 Going-to-the-Sun Road 274-5, 278 162 population 413, 426 43, 134, 42 accommodations 277-8 Forest Park 388 Port Angeles 374 High Road to Taos 42-3 activities 277 Garden of the Gods 100 Portland 17, 385-95, Highway 12 Scenic drinking & nightlife 280 Golden Gate Park 312 386-7, 17 Byway 41-2, 214 entertainment 280 Griffith Park 248 accommodations 390-1 Historic Columbia River food 278-80 Huntington Library, Art activities 389 Highway 44 sights 271-7 Collections & Botani- Loneliest Road, The 44 cal Gardens 253 children, travel with 389 tourist information 281 Million Dollar Highway Lithia Park 407 drinking & nightlife travel to/from 281 392-4 40, 41, 102 travel within 281 Olympic Sculpture Pacific Coast Highway 11, Park 358 entertainment 394 38-9, 11 470 San Felipe de Neri Church children, travel with 364 Squaw Valley Alpine 216 drinking & nightlife Meadows 351 372 San Francisco 9, 302-27, 366-7 Sugar Bowl 352 Ecola State Park 404 305, 306, 308-9, 9 entertainment 367-9 Sun Valley Resort 139 Eldorado Canyon State accommodations 313-19 festivals & events 363 Telluride 103-4 Park 84 Castro, the 311, 318, food 365-6 Vail 96 Emerald Bay State

INDEX INDEX 321-2, 312 shopping 369 Whitefish Mountain Park 351 children, travel with 323 sights 358-62 Resort 132-3 Fort Stevens State Park 403 Chinatown 304, 306-7, tourist information 369 Winter Park 94 315, 319, 321 State S tours 363 smoking 450  Civic Center 302-3, 313, Park 373  travel to/from 369-70 snow sports 19, 51-2, 19 315, 319 Humboldt Redwoods travel within 370 Aspen 97 drinking & nightlife State Park 336 Big Sky Resort 127 322-3 Seattle Center 359 Humbug Mountain State Bridger Bowl Ski Area Embarcadero 303-4 Sedona 170-2, 174 Park 407 127 entertainment 323-4 senior travelers 445 Jedediah Smith Red- Jackson Hole 115 woods State Park 338 Fisherman’s Wharf 307, Sequoia National Park Sun Valley Resort 139 310-11, 315, 318, 321 346-8 Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Utah Olympic Park 202 Park 296 food 319-22 Shasta Lake 341-2 Solvang 292 Kartchner Caverns State Haight, the 311, 318-19, Shasta State Historic Park 341 Sonoma Valley 331-2 Park 194 322, 314 Shoshone people 429-30 Sonoran hot dogs 194 Lake Chelan State Park itineraries 304 380 Mission, the 311, 318, Sierra Nevada 343-52 Southwest 68, 142-238 Silver City 235 accommodations 142 Lake Tahoe-Nevada 321-2, 312 State Park 352 Silverton 105-6 children, travel with 64 Nob Hill 307 Lime Kiln Point State North Beach 304, 306-7, Silverton Railroad Depot climate 142 Park 377 105 315, 319, 321 culture 425-6 Living Desert State Presidio 307, 310-11, 315, Sioux people 429 food 57, 142 Park 238 318, 321 Sisters 399-400 geology 438-9 Malibu Creek State Richmond, the 314 skiing 51-2, 19 highlights 144-5, 144-5 Park 250 Russian Hill 307 Alta 201 itineraries 143 Montaña de Oro State shopping 324-6 Aspen 97 travel seasons 142 Park 294-5 sights 302-12 Bend 400 Space Needle 359 378 SoMa 302-3, 313, 315, Big Sky Resort 127 Spaceport America 233 319 Breckenridge 95 Spokane 380-2 294 tourist information 326 Bridger Bowl Ski Area sports 425 Mt Tamalpais State Park 327 tours 313 127 Springdale 215 travel to/from 326 Brighton 201-2 Patrick’s Point State Stanley 140-1 Park 337 travel within 327 Canyons Village at Park state parks Pfeiffer Big Sur State walking tour 320, City 203 320 297 San Juan Islands 15, Crested Butte 101 Park 297 Deer Valley 202-3 Point Sur State Historic 376-8, 15 Antelope Island State Park 297 Durango 107 San Luis Obispo 293-4 Park 207 Prairie Creek Redwoods Santa Barbara 289-92 Flagstaff 173 Anza-Borrego Desert State Park 338 Santa Cruz 300-2 Hurricane Ridge Ski & State Park 286-7 335 Snowboard Area 372 Santa Fe 12, 220-6, 228, Cape Blanco State Sinks Canyon State 222-3 Jackson Hole 115 Park 407 Park 114 Santa Monica Pier 251-2 Lake Tahoe 351 Cimarron Canyon State Smith Rock State Park Park 232 scenic drives, see road Mt Bachelor Ski Resort 401 trips & scenic drives 400 City of Rocks State 235 Sea Lion Caves 406 Mt Hood 398-9 Park 334 Crystal Cove State Sea Lions at Pier 39 310 Northstar California 352 Torrey Pines State Park 271 Seattle 13, 357-70, 360-1, Park City Mountain Natural Reserve 276 Resort 203 Dead Horse Point State Valley of Fire State 13 Park 210 accommodations 363-5 Ruidoso 236 Park 156 Salida 99 State activities 363 Park 375 Santa Fe 221 335 Del Norte Coast Red- Steamboat Springs 92-3 Silverton 105 woods State Park 338 Steens Mountain 410 Map Pages 000 Snowbird 201 Donner Memorial State Sun Valley 138-40 Photo Pages 000 Solitude 201 Park 352 471 Sundance Film Festival travel within Western USA Wallowa Mountains 410 National Bison Range 27, 203 21, 454-9 Walnut Canyon 177 134 Sundance Resort 208 trekking, see hiking Walt Disney Concert Hall National Elk Refuge 115 Sunrift Gorge 134 Trinidad 337 244 World Center for Birds of Sunset Crater Volcano Trump, Donald 423 Wasatch Mountains 201-4 Prey 137 National Monument 178 Truth or Consequences Washington 357-84 Willamette Valley 395-7 surfing 48-9 233 Washington State Capitol 371 Williams 176-7 INDEX Cannon Beach 404 Tucson 189-92 waterfalls wine 61-2 Los Angeles 255 Tuolumne Meadows 344 Benham Falls 402 wine regions 12, 61-2

San Diego 277 Bird Woman Falls 134 Healdsburg 332-4  S-Z Santa Cruz 300 McWay Falls 296 Napa Valley 330-1  U swimming Ukiah 336 Multnomah Falls 397 Paso Robles Wine Country 295 Auburn State Recreation Umpqua Lighthouse 406-7 Yosemite Falls 344 Area 340 Patagonia 194 University of California water sports Lake Tahoe 352 (Berkeley) 328 Glen Canyon National Russian River Valley 332-4 Zephyr Cove 351 University of Oregon 396 Recreation Area 186 Santa Maria Valley 292 Utah 195-215 Hood River 398 Sonoma Valley 331-2 history 195-6 Seattle 363 T Verde Valley 171 Tabernacle 197 tourist information 196 246-7 Winter Park 94 Taos 12, 228-31, 12 travel to/from 196 Wawona 344 wolves 441 Taos Pueblo 231 travel within 196 weather 20, 413 Women’s Building 311 taxis 458 Utah Olympic Park 202 weaving 430 women travelers 451 TCL Chinese Theatre 247-8 Utah State Capitol 197 websites 21 Wright, Frank Lloyd 162 telephone services 20, 449 weights 450 Wyoming 111-26 television 435, 450 Westwood Village Memorial V Park Cemetery 249 tourist information 111 Telluride 103-5 vacations 448-9 whale-watching 54 Telluride Bluegrass Festival Vail 95-7 27, 104 Monterey Bay 298-9 Vail Mountain 96 Y Temple Square 197 Whidbey Island 375 Yachats 405-6 Valley of Fire State Park theme parks 17 Whiskeytown National Yakima 383 156 Recreation Area 341 Belmont Park 276 Yellowstone National Park vegetarian travelers 59 White Sands National Disneyland 267-8 9, 118-23, 120, 8 Venice Boardwalk 252 Monument 235-6 Knott’s Berry Farm 269 yoga 254-5 Vernal 205 Whitefish 132-3 Knott’s Soak City 269 Yosemite National Park 13, Very Large Array 234 white-water rafting 49 Universal Studios 343-6, 13, 89 visas 20, 450-1 Arkansas River 100 265, 17 Yosemite Village 343 volcanic sites Colorado River 185 time 20, 449-50 Lassen Volcanic National Durango 107 tipping 448 Park 343 Green River 206 Z toilets 450 Zion National Park 15, Mt St Helens National Hells Canyon Dam 410 Tombstone 194-5 Volcanic Monument 214-15 John Day River 409 Torrey 212 383 zoos San Juan River 210-11 tourist information 450 Newberry National Living Desert Zoo & Taos 229 tours, see road trips & Volcanic Monument Gardens 282 scenic drives, walking 402 Upper Klamath River 407 Oregon Zoo 388 tours, individual wildlife 26, 440-2 San Diego Zoo 274 locations wildlife reserves 26 W Woodland Park Zoo 364 train travel 458-9 walking, see hiking Klamath Basin National Zuni Pueblo 220 travel to/from Western Wildlife Refuge Com- walking tours 320 USA 452-4 plex 343 Walla Walla 383-4 472 NOTES 473 NOTES 474 NOTES 475 NOTES 476 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 477

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Adam Karlin Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon National Parks Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alpha- betical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe Border. As a journalist, he has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!).

MaSovaida Morgan Oregon MaSovaida is a travel journalist whose wayfaring tendencies have taken her to more than 50 countries across all seven continents. As a Lonely Planet author, she contributes to guidebooks on destinations throughout Southeast Asia, the Middle East, Europe and the Americas.

Christopher Pitts Arizona Chris’s first expedition in life ended in failure when he tried to dig from Pennsylvania to China at the age of six. He went on to study Chinese in university, living for several years in China. After more than a decade in Paris, the lure of Colorado’s sunny skies and outdoor adventure proved too great to resist.

Andrea Schulte-Peevers California Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has traveled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for more than two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles. Andrew Bender California Award-winning travel and food writer Andrew has written three dozen Lonely Planet guidebooks (from Amsterdam to Los Angeles, Germany to Taiwan and over a dozen titles about Japan), plus numerous articles for lonelyplanet.com.

Alison Bing California Over many guidebooks and 20 years in San Francisco, author Alison has spent more time on Alcatraz than some inmates, become an aficionado of drag and burritos, and willfully ignored Muni signs warning that safety requires avoiding unnecessary conversation.

Celeste Brash Oregon Celeste has been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet since 2005 and her travel articles have appeared in publications from BBC Travel to National Geographic. She’s currently writing a book about her five years on a remote pearl farm in the Tuamotu Atolls.

Stephanie d’Arc Taylor Nevada A native Angeleno, Stephanie has published work with the New York Times, the Guardian, Roads & Kingdoms and Kinfolk Magazine (among others), and co-founded Jaleesa, a venture-capital-funded social impact business in Beirut.

Michael Grosberg Glacier National Park Michael has worked on more than 50 Lonely Planet guide- books. Other international work included development on Rota in the western Pacific; in South Africa, where he investigated and wrote about political violence and trained newly elected government representatives; and teaching in Quito, Ecuador.

Ashley Harrell California After studying journalism and working as a reporter, Ashley traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet. From there her travels have only become more exotic.

John Hecht Utah Los Angeles native John has contributed to more than a dozen Lonely Planet guidebooks and trade publications, mostly focused on Latin America and the US. He headed down south to Mexico more than two decades ago and is still livin’ the Mexican dream in his adopted country. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Anthony Ham Idaho, Montana, Wyoming Anthony is a freelance writer who travels the world in search of stories. His particular passions are the wildlife, wild places and wide open spaces of the planet, from the Great Plains of the US to the Amazon, East and Southern Africa, and the Arctic. He writes for magazines and newspapers around the world, and his narrative nonfiction book on Africa’s lions will be pub- lished in 2020. Anthony also researched and wrote the Planning, Understand and Survival Guide content.

Amy C Balfour New Mexico Amy practiced law in Virginia before moving to Los Angeles to try to break in as a screenwriter. If you listen carefully, you can still hear the horrified screams of her parents echoing through the space-time continuum. After a stint as a writer’s assistant on Law & Order, she jumped into freelance writing, focus- ing on travel, food and the outdoors.

Becky Ohlsen Washington Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in Portland, Ore- gon. She writes guidebooks and travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere for Lonely Planet.

Robert Balkovich Washington Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house, he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking experiences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on. Instagram: oh_balky.

Greg Benchwick Colorado A longtime Lonely Planet travel writer, Greg has rumbled in the jungles of Bolivia, trekked across Spain on the Camino de Santiago, interviewed presi- dents and Grammy Award winners, dodged flying salmon in Alaska and climbed mountains (big and small) in between.

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