4/14 MEININGER’S WBI T founded in the 1920s,includingDolu founded inthe were wineries first modern the though to DNA andarchaeological evidence, 9,000yearsaround ago,according to wildgrape domestication ofthe twoacross continents. landsplit andwith form; its current world, youngest but also one of the in most inthe ancientwineindustries possiblywine production; oneofthe varieties are truly interesting producing producing interesting grapes truly varieties are winemaker Daniel O’Donnell says, native “The reason.” Consultant for that Öküzgözü like the diverse varietals focused on their that last ourrange yearrefreshed inmore to bring nativeture not ones.We varietals international feaappeal most to that ourcustomers those are for over years, Ihave winesthat three found the says, “Having worked wines Turkish sourcing Emma Dawson, buyer &Spencer, for Marks excite that lecik Karasi attention. international such Boğazkere, asÖküzgözü, Narince andKa varieties localgrape tional varieties; it’s the are wineproducers. are most indicate ofthese in 2012andsources that beverages” 47in2003to from increased 157 alcoholic of“fermented registered producers to hard are track down,of wineproducers but ments inwinehave multiplied. Exact numbers ‘Tekel’ invest was andsincethen, privatised, stateto monopoly anendin2003whenthe overDecades ofcontrol alcoholsalescame year) andKavaklidere. its88th ca (celebrating Plantings are a mixture of local and interna a mixture Plantings are total 3%ofthe tonnage. tonnes, orlessthan was 102,847 for producing production, 505,000 haundervine;in2011just 15,385ha world France, Spain andItaly,in the after with reports. arena.international Butdomesticpoliticsare playinghavoconthehomefromt. Caroline GilbyMW hasanemerging wineindustryproducing winesthathavealready proved successfulinthe REGIONAL ANALYSIS Wine inTurkey may well date back Turkey is the fourth largest grower of grapes largest grower ofgrapes Turkey fourth isthe grower of grapes with atiny with grower ofgrapes a huge Muslim but secular; urkey ofcontrasts: iscountry The localmarket THE DARK MARKETOFTURKEY - Caption - - - - or activity that encourages alcoholconsumption encourages or activitythat Anyerages. promotion, typeofadvertisement, imposed for alcoholicbev banningadvertising atDolucawinery.Oral InJune2013,laws were andconsumers,” toers according SibelKutman have “have disadvantage been to of produc the Recentmost wineproducers. changes law to the themselves.” would they like drink to to most bethe associate “Amongstthat, educated young, the wineseems sommelieratTheFat Turkish-born Duck, adds crowds.” on-premise and increasing IsaBal, market growing isthe inIstanbul son for this and imported wines. She says, main rea “The inpremium isalsodouble-digitgrowth there market, endofthe low-priced but ing beeratthe Turkey’s sector. off-trade replac Wine hasbeen Gozdem GurbuzatikofMey/Diageo, in leaders been seeingsomepositive to according trends domestic market Wine here. inthe had riety. (‘ox Öküzgözü eye’) best-known isthe mestic market 37%selecting by too, va with still run outofstockstill run by October-November.” duction volume year every since 2011 and we round aperitif drink. We drink. aperitif haveround doubledourpro popular asanall-year-wines, becomingmore we trend increasing andblushstyle seeisrosés own back their from yard.” Headds,“Another to some wines comeback Turks and try the excitingvery wines,andhave even convinced Turkey’s domestic market key istherefore for Grape name is an important cue in the do cueinthe nameisanimportant Grape 52 ------boutique developmentsboutique includeMichel Rolland and ,aswell Narince. Other asorange whiteslent aromatic such asSauvignonBlanc someexcel just with acoupleofharvests after new investments, makinganimpression already border, Bulgarian istypicalofthe nearthe tains or producer’s names in the window.” namesinthe or producer’s banned andwineshopsmay not display bottles company are of advertisement name.Allsorts now. company Even the cannot cars bearthe a ‘ghost’ industry. isunderaveil Everything hasbecome indemand.Theindustry decrease haveregulations 10% beenresulted inaround owner ofChamlija Winery, new “The concurs, market asthe ers isdark.” Mustafa Chamlica, them theconsum reach to difficult for is very have wines and it just to started their release which madeinvestment decisionsadecadeago, market. Thesmallscale,chateau-like producers, the difficultand more winesinto tointroduce hit. AsGurbuzatikpointsout,“Itisgetting more er, willbehardest that newer wineries boutique yet,ured butitseemslikely small itwillbethe outlook of the present administration.” present outlook ofthe andreligious conservative more stem the from initiatives, actually presented ashealth though alcoholindustry,tions andimpositions onthe al says,Oral “We new restric believe allthese that 24%in2011.Kutman from cohol atall,adrop al populationdrink and only 15%ofthe around Chamlija, with 85 ha in the Strandja Moun 85hainthe Chamlija, with The fullimpact oflegislationcan’t bemeas consumption were indecline, already branding canbedisplayedbranding andwarn is now forbidden. No or trademarks Beer and raki (the local hard spirit) spirit) localhard (the Beer andraki is only 1L to1.5 around L per head. domestic wineconsumptionthat issue,given misuse isawidespread evidence doesn’tthe suggest alcohol alcohol;however, from ducing harm 6am. Thislaw issupposedly aboutre bannedbetweensales are 10pmand andretail permitted munications are sumer tastings orsocialmediacom obligatory.ing labelsare No con ------TURKEY consulting exclusively to the ambitious 170 ha industry is new, they are probably still at the impression of Turkish wines overall, which Vinero project in and Lenz Moser work- investing rather than returning stage.” is not good for anyone.” Gurbuzatik agrees. ing with Kocabag Winery in Cappadocia. Moser “This is an issue, we, as winemakers should says, “On a trip two years ago, we found out that Growing challenges approach together with tourism industry to Turkey comes with state-of-the-art winemak- create a strategic plan for adding value to our WBI 4/14 MEININGER’S ing, very, very talented winemakers who are Improving has been a target for tourism potential,” he says. highly educated. and ideal growing conditions.” many wineries in the last few years. Produc- Given the advertising restrictions, produc- He adds, “Amongst European buyers, there is a ers have to deal with an unusual issue with the ers have to find other ways to promote their great willingness to go for . A chal- white variety, Narince, as its leaves are regard- wines. Several small-scale quality-focused pro- lenge is for sure to convince the public that Tur- ed as much the best for stuffed vine leaves – ducers have come together to develop a ‘Vine- key is a first class wine producer. Turkey, like meaning vines are often stripped to the point of yards of Route’ with the support of a China, has been rediscovered as a ‘new’ wine being unable to ripen a crop. Larger producers local government agency, and in conjunction destination. Both have a huge vineyard acreage have also invested significantly into vineyards with and , with an emphasis on and are highly interested in switching from rai- and improving quality through the food and culture, not wine. sin to wine production as they can earn more.” long term contracts too. Kavak- A quick bit of research shows Another newcomer, Chateau Kalpak – owned lidere now has over 600 ha, that wineries such as Suvla by former investment banker Bulent Kalpaklio- including Narince planted in have web- glu – has 12 ha in Gallipoli and produces premi- , plus plantings of local sites that are very different to um reds; it’s picked up medals for all three first Öküzgözü and Boğazkere. At their international pages, stick- release wines. Based on international medals, in Mey, O’Donnell says, “We own ing here to neutral pictures fact, there is no doubt many Turkish producers 66 ha of vineyards, and most of scenery and food. Chateau are genuinely making high quality wines. How- of our high end production Kaplak imaginatively uses the ever, Bal cautions, “I think the issue of where to comes from long-term contract tag-line “vineyards and crafted sell wine has not been studied well by most of vineyards that we manage. The fermented grape juice” on its those producers who have been established in quality of vineyards are much Caption holding page. the last ten years or so. One of the main issues better in Thrace and in Aegean in the local market is that it does not function region compared to old wine regions such as The export market normally. With exclusive deals made by some Eastern Anatolia.” In Eastern Anatolia, he says, of the more established wineries for HORECA, Boğazkere plantations [the only red vin- Exports accounted for just under 5% of wine dominance of one supermarket, coupled with ifera indigenous variety from this area] are in production by volume in 2013 and though since the restriction on advertising, promoting wines danger. “The vineyards are in bad condition 2008 global volume has decreased, export value needs to be a bit more than a hobby in my and there is also Phylloxera in this region, so has increased. Wines of Turkey has been active- opinion. Some of these producers are having a the crop declines each year. Being the closest ly promoting awareness internationally since sensible return but quite a few are not.” Wine winery, we are investing in Boğazkere and also 2008, through wine fairs, press trips and tast- writer Christy Canterbury MW adds, “Indeed, Öküzgözü grape varieties on our own vine- ings. It was not realistic for producers to expect much money has been invested and much of it yards and with our contracted winegrowers.” huge export figures from the beginning, but comes from owners’ ‘day jobs’ in other indus- Tourism should be a great opportunity to with the pressure in the domestic market, many tries. These new owners are serious about pro- promote Turkish wines, but the significant producers will now be looking for more solid re- duction and committed to putting their best foot proportion of all-inclusive tourist deals is an sults. Mustafa Chamlica says, “I think Turkish forward. Most new producers can sell all of their issue. These hotels reportedly account for al- wineries were not as aggressive as they should wine in Turkey, as they are quite small. Many most 20% of wine consumption within the have been regarding new markets. Now, every- newcomers are also investing in wine tourism country and buy low quality, often going to the body wants to export.” He adds, “Wines of Tur- by building tasting rooms and hotels and provid- growing black market for wines to avoid taxes. key is going through some radical changes.We ing wedding facilities. As much of the Turkish O’Donnell says, “Tourists leave with a negative are still working on a new strategy”. He would like to set up a Turkish Wine Exporters Associa- Turkish Wine Exports 2008 to 2013 (TURKSTAT) tion, “which could be very aggressive in imple- 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 menting new marketing strategies. We have to UK be result oriented now.” For Taner Öğütoğlu of Litres 139.775 201.652 219.442 157.231 245.832 374.995 Fidelity Consulting, “The only good news is that value € 256.918 € 284.930 € 396.539 € 320.375 € 624.527 € 970.434 Wines of Turkey will start to get export support from the Economy Ministry, and the UK and value/litre € 1,84 € 1,41 € 1,81 € 2,04 € 2,54 € 2,59 USA seem to be priority markets.” World Undoubtedly Turkish wine producers have Litres 3.529.071 3.642.600 2.710.049 2.366.468 2.351.492 2.575.103 many challenges ahead, but in terms of wine value € 5.898.962 € 5.761.837 € 5.343.613 € 5.843.570 € 6.752.987 € 7.910.921 quality and as a source of exciting and distinc- value/litre € 1,67 € 1,58 € 1,97 € 2,47 € 2,87 € 3,07 tive wines, this is a country to watch. W

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