KateGuest Mosse Editor TRAVEL | FOOD & WINE | CULTURE | HISTORY
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Where to buy Local festivals your wine to enjoy in 2013 in Calais Walking the MARSEILLE Cathar castles What to see in the in Languedoc 2013 European Capital of Culture WIN! A classic car break in 1BSJTDJOFNBT south-west France 5IF$JUZPG-JHIUÕTDMBTTJD A huge Hotel UIFBUSFTGPSGJMNMPWFST Chocolat selection Bonne Maman baked goodies Signed copies of best-selling novels 4QFDJBMFEJUJPO Carcassonne(VFTU&EJUPS,BUF.PTTF ~ Follow in the footsteps of the acclaimed author as she reveals what makes the medieval citadel so inspirational
INTERVIEW TRUFFLE TIME! ON THE ROAD "VUIPS5SBDZ$IFWBMJFS 8IFSFUPIVOUPVUUIF 8IZJUÕTXPSUICSBWJOH POXIZTIFMPWFT'SBODF CFTUCMBDLEJBNPOET 1BSJTÕTQ¨SJQI¨SJRVF www.francemag.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 1 Castles in the clouds Walking in the footsteps of the Cathar heretics in Languedoc led Clare Hargreaves through some of Europe’s most dramatic landscapes
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www.completefrance.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 43 44 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.completefrance.com EF'FOPVJMMFU'SPNUIFDBSQBSLXFDBVHIUB UBOUBMJTJOHHMJNQTFPGUIFESBNBUJDIFSNJUBHFPG 4BJOU"OUPJOFDMJOHJOHUPUIFSPDLGBDF)JLFSTVTFE UPCFBCMFUPHSBCBCFEIFSF CVUTBEMZOPNPSF $SZTUBMMJOFQPPMTJOUIFHPSHFQSPWJEFEGVSUIFS UFNQUBUJPO CVUXFGPSHFEFBTUXBSETUISPVHICPY USFFTVQUPBMJNFTUPOFSJEHFXJUIWJFXTPWFSUIF QMBJOTBOEUPUIFMBZFSFECMVFNPVOUBJOTPGUIF 1ZSÄOÄFT0VSSFXBSEXBTQJDOJDMVODIPOUIFNJMLZ MJNFTUPOFSPDLTCFGPSFEFTDFOEJOHJOUIFEJSFDUJPO PGUIF$I½UFBVEF1FZSFQFSUVTF)FSFXFNBEF BEFUPVSOPSUIXBSETUPUIFWJMMBHFPG4PVMBUHÄ XJUI JUTFODIBOUJOHDIBNCSFTEÕI³UFT SFKPJOJOHUIFSPVUF UXPEBZTMBUFS .JHIUZ1FZSFQFSUVTF DMJOHJOHUPBMPOHSPDLZ $"5)"3)*4503: SJEHFNFUSFTBCPWFTFBMFWFM IBTUPCFPOFPG Supporters of Catharism, which swept the &VSPQFnTNPTUBXFJOTQJSJOHDBTUMFT*UJTSFNBSLBCMF Languedoc in the 12th and 13th centuries, OPUKVTUGPSJUTTFUUJOHBOEWJFXT CVUCFDBVTFUIF believed that the official Catholic Church had DPNQMFY XJUIJUTEVOHFPOT DIVSDIFTBOEFODMPTVSFT betrayed the genuine doctrine of the Apostles JTTPCFBVUJGVMMZQSFTFSWFE-JLF1VJMBVSFOT NPTUPGJUT and become degenerate. In contrast to the GPSUJGJDBUJPOTXFSFCVJMUBGUFSUIFEFGFBUPGUIF$BUIBST official monotheist Christian doctrine, the BTQBSUPGUIF Cathars believed in two opposing principles: 'SFODIEFGFODFT good and evil, God and Satan. The spiritual BHBJOTU"SBHPO 1FZSFQFSUVTF DMJOHJOHUP world was good, but the material world made :PVFOUFSUIF by Satan was corrupt. It was this spiritual DBTUMFGSPNUIF BMPOHSPDLZSJEHF IBT insistence on purity, in a world that was seen OPSUI WJBUIJDLFUT UPCFPOFPG&VSPQFÕTNPTU as the work of the Devil, which gave rise PGCPYXPPE CVU to the theory (now disputed) that the name PODFJOTJEFUIFSFJT BXFJOTQJSJOHDBTUMFT Cathar derived from the Greek ‘katharos’ QMFOUZPGTQBDFUP meaning pure or clean. FOKPZUIFTJUFBOE Cathars were divided into a ‘pure’ elite, UPOFZPVSDBMGNVTDMFTGVSUIFSCZUSBNQJOHVQ known as parfaits (‘perfects’), and the mass of NZSJBEGMJHIUTPGTUPOFTUFQT"TJUUVSOFEPVU UIF simple believers. The parfaits were initiated by QBUIBXBZGSPNUIFDBTUMFEPXOUPXBSETUIFWJMMBHF receiving the sacrament of baptism called PG%VJMIBDXBTNVDIUPVHIFSHPJOH XJUIJUTTQJOZ ‘consolation’. A parfait led an extremely austere CVTIFTUFBSJOHBUPVSMFHT"SSJWJOHBUUIFUFSSBDF life, abstaining from meat and dairy produce, PGUIFDIJD)PTUFMMFSJFEV7JFVY.PVMJO XFEPXOFE and staying celibate. Ordinary believers did not UXP1FSSJFSNFOUIFT BSFGSFTIJOHNJYPG1FSSJFSXBUFS have to bide by such austerity, except just BOENJOUDPSEJBM BTXFTBUJOUIFTIBEFPGUIFQMBOF before death when they received the sacrament USFFT#ZUIFFOEPGPVSUSJQXFIBECPUIMFBSOFEIPX of ‘consolation’ and began a total fast. UPBTLGPSBm1FSJNBOUnXJUIBTPVUIFSOUXBOH With such ideas infecting large areas of the %FTDFOEJOHUPUIFWJMMBHFPG$VDVHOBO TQJMMFE Languedoc – at that time not yet part of the PWFSBSPDLZPVUDSPQMJLFBHMBTTPG#MBORVFUUF XF French kingdom – the barons of the north of XFSFOPXJOXJOFDPVOUSZ&WFSZDVMUJWBUBCMFQBUDI France decided to act. With the blessing of PGMBOEXBTQMBOUFEXJUIUIFWJOFTUIBUNBLFUIF Pope Innocent III, who branded the Cathars as XFMMLOPXO$PSCJÃSFTXJOFT BOEBUUIFFOUSBODFUP heretics, and with the connivance of the French UIFWJMMBHFXFSFTFWFSBMXJOFSJFTTFMMJOHUIFJSXBSFT ABOVE: Attractions kings, northern nobles descended on the area 8FTBWFEPVSUIJSTUGPSPVSIPUFM UIF"VCFSHFEV in all directions in a series of crusades, beginning in 1208 and 7JHOFSPO XIPTFTVCUFSSBOFBOSFTUBVSBOUXBT FACING PAGE, for many years led by Simon de Montfort, who BXJOFDFMMBSJOBQSFWJPVTMJGF*UTPXOFS .'BOOPZ CLOCKWISE FROM became notorious for his cruelty. Cathars who QMJFEVTXJUIMPDBMWJOEPVYBTBWFJOGJ[[JOH TOP: The Château were caught were burned in communal BQÄSJUJG"EJOOFSPGDBTTPVMFUPOUIFUFSSBDF XJUI de Puilaurens; The conflagrations, 100 or 200 at a time, and their ESFBNZWJFXTUPUIFNPVOUBJOT SPVOEFEPGGUIF Salle de Palmier at lands laid waste or seized. FWFOJOHQFSGFDUMZ the Château de This barbarity united Cathars and their 8PLFOCZDIVSDICFMMTBOEUIFTNFMMPGGSFTIMZ Quéribus; The Catholic neighbours in southern solidarity HSPVOEDPGGFFEPXOTUBJST XFSPTFFBSMZUPCFBUUIF village of against the barbarian north – a resentment that IFBUGPSPVSBTDFOUUPUIF$I½UFBVEF2VÄSJCVT Cucugnan; Ruins can be said to continue to this day. Though 'PSHJOHVQXBSETUISPVHIWJOFZBSETBOEGMPXFS on the path to military defeat became irreversible with the fall TUVEEFENPVOUBJOTJEFT XFGJOBMMZSFBDIFEUIF$PM Padern; Checking of Montségur in 1244, it took another 70 years EV(SBVEF.BVSZ XIFSFUIFDBTUMFUPXFSTVQBU the map on the to root out the Cathars completely.
ILLUSTRATION: AKG-IMAGES/BRITISH LIBRARY AKG-IMAGES/BRITISH ILLUSTRATION: BIFJHIUPGNFUSFT5IFHBUFTHVBSEJOHUIFGJOBM Sentier Cathare www.payscathare.org
www.completefrance.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 45 EPNJOBUFECZBIFBWJMZSFTUPSFEQPMZHPOBMLFFQ UIFDFOUSFPGXIJDIIPVTFTUIF4BMMFEV1BMNJFS 1BMN 5SFF3PPN TPDBMMFECFDBVTFUIFTJOHMFQJMMBS TVQQPSUJOHUIFWBVMUFEBSDISFTFNCMFTBQBMNUSFF USVOLBOEJUTGSPOET*UnTBQMFBTJOHQPFUJDUPVDI JO DPOUSBTUUPUIFPUIFSXJTFIBSTINJMJUBSZBSDIJUFDUVSF 5IF$BUIBSTIFMEPVUJOUIFDBTUMFVOUJM NPSF UIBOBEFDBEFBGUFSUIFGBMMPG.POUTÄHVS TPUIF GPSUSFTTDPNQFUFTGPSUIFEJTUJODUJPOPGCFJOHUIFMBTU TUSPOHIPME0OFDBOnUIFMQUIJOLJOHUIBUBTIJEJOH QMBDFTHP GFXDBOCFBTTDFOJD 0VSGJOBMTUSFUDIXPVOEUISPVHIGPSFTUT TUVEEFE XJUIDPDPOVUTDFOUFECSPPNBOEBSVJOFEBCCFZKVTU CFGPSFUIFWJMMBHFPG1BEFSO-J[BSET CBTLJOHPOUIF USBDLXFSFKVTUPQFOJOH TPGPSBNBHJDBMIPVSXF IPUSPDL TDVUUMFEBXBZBTXFBQQSPBDIFErPOFGPVOE IBEUIFDBTUMFBMMUPPVSTFMWFT IFSF UIFTDBMZ-BSHF1TBNNPESPNVT JTRVJUFSBSF *ODPOUSBTUUP1FZSFQFSUVTFnTTQSBXMJOH 1BEFSOnTUIDFOUVSZDBTUMFNBZMBDLUIFESBNBPG GPSUJGJDBUJPOT UIFPOFTBU2VÄSJCVTFYUFOEVQXBSET 2VÄSJCVTBOE1FZSFQFSUVTF CVUJUTQPTJUJPOKVTUBCPWF MJLFBNFOBDJOHTQFBS5IFDBTUMF TUBSUFEJOUIF UIFWJMMBHFQSPWJEFTXPOEFSGVMWJFXTPGUIFFBTUFSO UIDFOUVSZ JTBTIPXDBTFPGIPXUIFNBYJNVN $PSCJÃSFTUPXBSET1FSQJHOBO0VSKPVSOFZUISPVHI OVNCFSPGSPPNTDBOCFDSBNNFEJOUPUIFNJOJNVN ABOVE: Journey’s $BUIBSIJTUPSZXBTDPNQMFUF TPXFIFBEFEUPUIF TQBDFrTQMJUMFWFMBSDIJUFDUVSFQVTIFEUPJUTMJNJUT end at a café $BGÄEFT4QPSUTPOUIFNBJOTUSFFU5JNFGPSBGJOBM 5IFTQBDFJOTJEF SFBDIFEWJBBTJOHMFTUBJSXBZ JT in Padern DFMFCSBUPSZ1FSSJFSNFOUIF
FRANCOFILE Explore the rugged world of the Cathars
GETTING THERE of the Sentier Cathare, per person. Menus terrace giving views of By rail: Clare travelled but not the legs from from €30. the Château de from London to Axat to Puilaurens, or Quéribus and the Carcassonne via Paris from Quéribus to La Giraudasse mountains. Doubles with Rail Europe. Padern, which Clare 2 Place de la Fontaine from €59, breakfast €9, Tel: 0844 848 4064 added. 11350 Soulatgé menus from €21. TOURIST www.raileurope.co.uk Maps: The 1:55 000 Le Tel: (Fr) 4 68 45 00 16 INFORMATION By road: Carcassonne Sentier Cathare (No 9), www.giraudasse.com WHERE TO VISIT Carcassonne tourist is ten hours from the published by Rando Chambre d’hôte in Château de Puilaurens office northern ferry ports. Editions, shows the a 17th-century mansion Tel: (Fr) 4 68 20 65 26 Tel: (Fr) 4 68 10 24 30 By air: See Holiday whole route. The in a small but dynamic www.pays-axat.org www.carcassonne- Planner on page 90. detailed maps village. The owners Open Feb to mid-Nov, tourisme.com covering Clare’s walk provide meals using admission €4. Aude-en-Pyrénées WALKING TOUR are IGN 1:25 000, 2348 local produce (much of tourist office Clare’s walking trip was ET and 2447 OT. it from their garden). Château de Tel: (Fr) 4 68 20 07 78 organised by Inntravel, Rooms, including Peyrepertuse www.aude-pyrenees.fr specialist in self-guided WHERE TO STAY breakfast: €54 for one Tel: (Fr) 4 82 53 24 07 Corbières Sauvages walking holidays Hostellerie du person, €64 for two, www.chateau- tourist office (Tel: 01653 617001, Grand Duc €74 for three. Evening peyrepertuse.com Tel: (Fr) 4 68 45 69 40 www.inntravel.co.uk). 11140 Gincla meal €25. Summer attractions www.corbieres- Its six-night Castles of Tel: (Fr) 4 68 20 55 02 include daily falconry sauvages.com the Cathars holiday www.host-du-grand- Auberge du Vigneron shows and a medieval Perpignan tourist costs from £745 per duc.com 2 Rue Achille-Mir festival. Open all year, office person including Old-style French 11350 Cucugnan admission €6. Tel: (Fr) 4 68 66 30 30 accommodation, hospitality in a tranquil Tel: (Fr) 4 68 45 03 00 www.perpignan transfers, luggage manor house with www.auberge- Château de Quéribus tourisme.com moves, evening meals restaurant. Doubles vigneron.com Tel: (Fr) 4 68 45 03 69 Aude tourist board and three picnic from €78, breakfast €11, Auberge converted www.cucugnan.fr Tel: (Fr) 4 68 11 66 00 lunches. Inntravel’s half-board (based on from a wine-maker’s Open all year, admission www.aude route includes sections two people) from €84 house, with a restaurant €5.50. tourisme.com
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