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Carcassonne(VFTU&EJUPS,BUF.PTTF ~ Follow in the Footsteps of the Acclaimed Author As She Reveals What Makes the Medieval Citadel So Inspirational

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Carcassonne(VFTU&EJUPS,BUF.PTTF ~ Follow in the Footsteps of the Acclaimed Author As She Reveals What Makes the Medieval Citadel So Inspirational KateGuest Mosse Editor TRAVEL | FOOD & WINE | CULTURE | HISTORY #SJUBJOÕTCFTUTFMMJOHNBHB[JOFBCPVU'SBODF +BOVBSZ]*TTVF Where to buy Local festivals your wine to enjoy in 2013 in Calais Walking the MARSEILLE Cathar castles What to see in the in Languedoc 2013 European Capital of Culture WIN! A classic car break in 1BSJTDJOFNBT south-west France 5IF$JUZPG-JHIUÕTDMBTTJD A huge Hotel UIFBUSFTGPSGJMNMPWFST Chocolat selection Bonne Maman baked goodies Signed copies of best-selling novels 4QFDJBMFEJUJPO Carcassonne(VFTU&EJUPS,BUF.PTTF ~ Follow in the footsteps of the acclaimed author as she reveals what makes the medieval citadel so inspirational INTERVIEW TRUFFLE TIME! ON THE ROAD "VUIPS5SBDZ$IFWBMJFS 8IFSFUPIVOUPVUUIF 8IZJUÕTXPSUICSBWJOH POXIZTIFMPWFT'SBODF CFTUCMBDLEJBNPOET 1BSJTÕTQ¨SJQI¨SJRVF www.francemag.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 1 Castles in the clouds Walking in the footsteps of the Cathar heretics in Languedoc led Clare Hargreaves through some of Europe’s most dramatic landscapes www.completefrance.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 41 IFKBHHFEMBOETDBQFTPGUIFGPSFTUTXIFSF 'SBODFNFMUTJOUP4QBJOBOEUIF.FEJUFSSBOFBO 5NFFUTUIF1ZSÄOÄFTBSFBTUVSCVMFOUBTUIFJS IJTUPSZ/PUIJOHFODBQTVMBUFTUIJTNPSFQPJHOBOUMZ UIBOUIFBSFBnT$BUIBSDBTUMFT QFSDIFEPOSPDLZ PVUDSPQTBOETUSVOHBDSPTTUIFBSFBMJLFBMJOFPG IJTUPSJDXBTIJOHIVOHPVUUPESZ 5IFDBTUMFTXFSFCVJMUPSJHJOBMMZCZMPDBMOPCMFNFO UPLFFQPVU4QBOJTINBSBVEFST CVUMBUFSJOUIF .JEEMF"HFTUIFZCFDBNFTUSPOHIPMETGPSIVNCMFS JOIBCJUBOUTrUIF$BUIBSTrXIPSFCFMMFEBHBJOTUUIF FTUBCMJTIFE$BUIPMJDDIVSDI"TUIFSFTVMUPGDSVTBEFT BHBJOTUUIFNMFECZOPCMFTGSPNUIFOPSUI UIF $BUIBSTXFSFWJSUVBMMZXJQFEPVUCZUIFNJEEMFPGUIF UIDFOUVSZ5PEBZUIFJSDBTUMFIJEFPVUTNBLFUIF SPDLZCBDLCPOFPGBOJOTQJSJOHXBMLrOPXDBMMFEUIF 4FOUJFS$BUIBSFrUISPVHITPVUIXFTU'SBODF 5IFLJMPNFUSFUSBJMTUSFUDIFTGSPNKVTUOPSUIPG 1FSQJHOBO POUIFXBUFSZDPBTUBMGMBUTPGUIFTPVUIFSO -BOHVFEPD UPUIFUPXOPG'PJY UVDLFEBNPOHUIF NPVOUBJOTPGUIF1ZSÄOÄFT3BUIFSUIBOCFJOHBTJOHMF 8FXBOEFSFEUISPVHI TDFOUFEQJOFGPSFTUT PVS QBUIJMMVNJOBUFECZ IBSFCFMMTBOEPSDIJET QBUI UIFSFBSFTFWFSBMWBSJBOUT8IJDIFWFSZPV DIPPTF UIFSPVUFEJWJEFTJOUPBSPVOEQBSUT TP XBMLJOHUIFFOUJSFMFOHUIUBLFTBSPVOEBGPSUOJHIU "TNZXBMLJOHDPNQBOJPO.BSZBOE*IBEPOMZ BXFFL XFEFDJEFEUPXBMLUIFFBTUFSOIBMG XIJDIJODMVEFTTPNFPGUIFCFTUQSFTFSWFEDBTUMFT TVDIBT1FZSFQFSUVTF %FQFOEJOHPOCVEHFU ZPVDBOFJUIFSTUBZJOSVTUJD H­UFTEÕ¨UBQFT SFGVHFT PSTNBMMIPUFMTBOEDIBNCSFT EÕI³UFT*GZPVHPXJUIBUSBWFMDPNQBOZZPVDBOHFU ZPVSCBHTDBSSJFEUPPrTPNFUIJOHZPVNBZCFIFBSUJMZ UIBOLGVMGPSBTZPVTUPNQVQUIFWFSUJDBMQBUIUP BOPUIFSDBTUMFFTQFDJBMMZJG MJLFVT ZPVUSBWFMJOUIF 0VSXBMLBMPOHUIF4FOUJFS$BUIBSFTUBSUFEBU IFBUPGTVNNFS UIFWJMMBHFPG"YBU BCPVULJMPNFUSFTTPVUIPG )PXFWFS XFCFHBOPVSUSJQJO$BSDBTTPOOFr $BSDBTTPOOF0EEMZ UIFSFJTOPTJHOQPTUJOHUP -BOHVFEPDnTNPTUJNQPSUBOU$BUIBSTUSPOHIPMEr JOEJDBUFZPVBSFPOUIFSPVUFrCVUXFTPPOHBUIFSFE TUBZJOHJOUIFOFXFS#BTUJEF UIFMPXFSUPXO B UIBUBCMVFBOEZFMMPXQBJOUGMBTIEJEUIFUSJDL NJOVUFXBMLGSPNUIFNFEJFWBM$JU¨8FHPUVQFBSMZ 8BOEFSJOHUISPVHITDFOUFEQJOFGPSFTUT PVSQBUI UPXBOEFSUIFHSBTTZMJDFT MJTUT CFUXFFOUIFIPOFZ JMMVNJOBUFECZIBSFCFMMTBOEPSDIJET XFTMPXMZGPVOE DPMPVSFEEPVCMFXBMMTPGUIF$JU¨UIBUMPPLPWFSUIF PVSXBMLJOHMFHT/PUIJOH UIPVHI DPVMEQSFQBSFVT 3JWFS"VEF5IFDJUZnTIFZEBZXBTGSPNUP GPSUIFTJHIUUIBUNFUVTBTXFSPVOEFEPVSGJOBM VOEFSUIF5SFODBWFMGBNJMZ XIPXFSFWJTDPVOUTPG CFOEBTUFFMHSFZDBTUMFXJUIGBJSZUBMFDSFOFMMBUFE #Ä[JFSTBOE/ÉNFT BOEBMTPTZNQBUIFUJDUPUIF ABOVE: The XBMMTUIBUTFFNFETVTQFOEFEJOUIFDMPVET $BUIBSDBVTF6OEFSUIFNUIF#BTJMJRVF4BJOU/B[BJSF Château de 8FQJODIFEPVSTFMWFTUPCFMJFWFUIFBQQBSJUJPO FU4BJOU$FMTFBOEUIF$I½UFBV$PNUBMXFSFCVJMU Peyrepertuse on POJUTSPDLZTVNNJUXBTSFBM8FIBESFBDIFE CVU$BSDBTTPOOFnTHMJUUFSJOHCFBVUZBOETUSBUFHJD its rocky outcrop 1VJMBVSFOT PVSGJSTU$BUIBSDBTUMF TPDBMMFECFDBVTFJU JNQPSUBODFNBEFJUBUBSHFU4JNPOEF.POUGPSU OPENING PAGES: TFSWFEBTBTIFMUFSGPSGMFFJOHIFSFUJDTEVSJOHUIFTJFHF BOEIJTTPMEJFSTDBQUVSFEUIFDJUZBUUIFTUBSUPGUIF The trail leading PG.POUTÄHVS GVSUIFSXFTU"MPDBM$BUIBSEFBDPO "MCJHFOTJBO$SVTBEFJO TBXPGGUIFMBTU up to the Château UPPLSFGVHFIFSFJOBOE BGUFS.POUTÄHVSnT 7JTDPVOU5SFODBWFMBOEFYQFMMFEUIF$BUIBST de Quéribus DBQUVSFJO UIF$BUIBSQBSGBJU QFSGFDU rBTJUT HARGREAVES CLARE PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL 42 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.completefrance.com MFBEFSTXFSFDBMMFErEJEUIFTBNF-BUFS UIF %VD GJWFLJMPNFUSFTUPUIFTPVUIJOUIFIBNMFUPG NPOBSDIZUVSOFEJUJOUPBGPSUSFTTUPEFGFOEUIF (JODMB5IFIPUFMXBTBTUSBEJUJPOBMMZ'SFODIBTZPV CPSEFSXJUIUIF4QBOJTILJOHEPNPG"SBHPO DPVMEGJOE$MPUIFEJO7JSHJOJBDSFFQFS BOEGSPOUFECZ 5IFMBUFBGUFSOPPO XJUIJUTHPMEFOMJHIUBOE BUSBORVJMUFSSBDF JUHPUJUTOBNFGSPNUIFMPDBMIJCPV SFGSFTIJOHCSFF[F QSPWFEBQFSGFDUUJNFUPUBLFUIF HSBOEEVD UIFFBHMFPXM XIJDITBEMZXFOFWFS QBUIVQUISPVHIQJOFDMBESPDLTUP1VJMBVSFOTn IFBSE 5IFPSJHJOBMNBOPSIPVTFXBTCVJMUJO JNQPTJOHHBUFXBZ&OUFSJOHUIFDBTUMF ZPVFODPVOUFS GPSUIFPXOFSPGUIFGPSHFTOFYUEPPSBOEIBTCFFO BOJODPOHSVPVTMZXJEFTXBUIFPGHSBTT BMNPTUUIF SVOBTBIPUFMCZUIF#SVDIFUGBNJMZTJODFUIFT TJ[FPGBGPPUCBMMQJUDI XIJDINBLFTBHSFBUQMBDFUP 8FUPBTUFEUIFGJSTUMFHPGPVS$BUIBSKPVSOFZXJUI DBUDIZPVSCSFBUI*UnTXFMMXPSUIDMJNCJOHVQUPUIF BHMBTTPG#MBORVFUUFEF-JNPVY UIFTQBSLMJOHXIJUF TRVBSFLFFQ UIFPMEFTUQBSUPGUIFGPSUJGJDBUJPOT#VU ABOVE, FROM TOP: XJOFUIBUIBTCFFONBEFJOUIFOFBSCZUPXOTJODF GPSQBOPSBNJDWJFXT QPQVQUPUIFQPTUFSOBOEUPXFS Looking up to the NFEJFWBMUJNFT MPOHCFGPSFDIBNQBHOFXBT JOUIFGBSDPSOFS*OUIFEJTUBODF XFNBEFPVUUIF Château de JOWFOUFE 5IBOLT OPEPVCU UPJUTJOFCSJBUJOH QFBLPGUIF NFUSF.POU$BOJHPVTUSBEEMJOHUIF Peyrepertuse; QPXFST UIFTUVGGFEPXMJOUIFSFTUBVSBOUTFFNFEUP 4QBOJTICPSEFS4JODFB$BUIBSQBSGBJUIBEUPBCTUBJO Clare takes XJOLBTXFTBUEPXOUPBEJOOFSPGIPNFNBEFQ½UÄ GSPNNFBU XPNFOBOE TPNFUJNFT GPPEBMUPHFUIFS a break; The BOESJWFSUSPVU UIFWJFXNVTUIBWFCFFOTPNFDPNQFOTBUJPO hermitage of 8FQJDLFEVQUIF4FOUJFS$BUIBSFBHBJOBUUIF 5IBUOJHIUXFTUBZFEBUUIF)PTUFMMFSJFEV(SBOE Saint-Antoine (PSHFTEF(BMBNVT OPSUIPGUIFUPXOPG4BJOU1BVM www.completefrance.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 43 44 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.completefrance.com EF'FOPVJMMFU'SPNUIFDBSQBSLXFDBVHIUB UBOUBMJTJOHHMJNQTFPGUIFESBNBUJDIFSNJUBHFPG 4BJOU"OUPJOFDMJOHJOHUPUIFSPDLGBDF)JLFSTVTFE UPCFBCMFUPHSBCBCFEIFSF CVUTBEMZOPNPSF $SZTUBMMJOFQPPMTJOUIFHPSHFQSPWJEFEGVSUIFS UFNQUBUJPO CVUXFGPSHFEFBTUXBSETUISPVHICPY USFFTVQUPBMJNFTUPOFSJEHFXJUIWJFXTPWFSUIF QMBJOTBOEUPUIFMBZFSFECMVFNPVOUBJOTPGUIF 1ZSÄOÄFT0VSSFXBSEXBTQJDOJDMVODIPOUIFNJMLZ MJNFTUPOFSPDLTCFGPSFEFTDFOEJOHJOUIFEJSFDUJPO PGUIF$I½UFBVEF1FZSFQFSUVTF)FSFXFNBEF BEFUPVSOPSUIXBSETUPUIFWJMMBHFPG4PVMBUHÄ XJUI JUTFODIBOUJOHDIBNCSFTEÕI³UFT SFKPJOJOHUIFSPVUF UXPEBZTMBUFS .JHIUZ1FZSFQFSUVTF DMJOHJOHUPBMPOHSPDLZ $"5)"3)*4503: SJEHFNFUSFTBCPWFTFBMFWFM IBTUPCFPOFPG Supporters of Catharism, which swept the &VSPQFnTNPTUBXFJOTQJSJOHDBTUMFT*UJTSFNBSLBCMF Languedoc in the 12th and 13th centuries, OPUKVTUGPSJUTTFUUJOHBOEWJFXT CVUCFDBVTFUIF believed that the official Catholic Church had DPNQMFY XJUIJUTEVOHFPOT DIVSDIFTBOEFODMPTVSFT betrayed the genuine doctrine of the Apostles JTTPCFBVUJGVMMZQSFTFSWFE-JLF1VJMBVSFOT NPTUPGJUT and become degenerate. In contrast to the GPSUJGJDBUJPOTXFSFCVJMUBGUFSUIFEFGFBUPGUIF$BUIBST official monotheist Christian doctrine, the BTQBSUPGUIF Cathars believed in two opposing principles: 'SFODIEFGFODFT good and evil, God and Satan. The spiritual BHBJOTU"SBHPO 1FZSFQFSUVTF DMJOHJOHUP world was good, but the material world made :PVFOUFSUIF by Satan was corrupt. It was this spiritual DBTUMFGSPNUIF BMPOHSPDLZSJEHF IBT insistence on purity, in a world that was seen OPSUI WJBUIJDLFUT UPCFPOFPG&VSPQFÕTNPTU as the work of the Devil, which gave rise PGCPYXPPE CVU to the theory (now disputed) that the name PODFJOTJEFUIFSFJT BXFJOTQJSJOHDBTUMFT Cathar derived from the Greek ‘katharos’ QMFOUZPGTQBDFUP meaning pure or clean. FOKPZUIFTJUFBOE Cathars were divided into a ‘pure’ elite, UPOFZPVSDBMGNVTDMFTGVSUIFSCZUSBNQJOHVQ known as parfaits (‘perfects’), and the mass of NZSJBEGMJHIUTPGTUPOFTUFQT"TJUUVSOFEPVU UIF simple believers. The parfaits were initiated by QBUIBXBZGSPNUIFDBTUMFEPXOUPXBSETUIFWJMMBHF receiving the sacrament of baptism called PG%VJMIBDXBTNVDIUPVHIFSHPJOH XJUIJUTTQJOZ ‘consolation’. A parfait led an extremely austere CVTIFTUFBSJOHBUPVSMFHT"SSJWJOHBUUIFUFSSBDF life, abstaining from meat and dairy produce, PGUIFDIJD)PTUFMMFSJFEV7JFVY.PVMJO XFEPXOFE and staying celibate. Ordinary believers did not UXP1FSSJFSNFOUIFT BSFGSFTIJOHNJYPG1FSSJFSXBUFS have to bide by such austerity, except just BOENJOUDPSEJBM BTXFTBUJOUIFTIBEFPGUIFQMBOF before death when they received the sacrament USFFT#ZUIFFOEPGPVSUSJQXFIBECPUIMFBSOFEIPX of ‘consolation’ and began a total fast. UPBTLGPSBm1FSJNBOUnXJUIBTPVUIFSOUXBOH With such ideas infecting large areas of the %FTDFOEJOHUPUIFWJMMBHFPG$VDVHOBO TQJMMFE Languedoc – at that time not yet part of the PWFSBSPDLZPVUDSPQMJLFBHMBTTPG#MBORVFUUF XF French kingdom – the barons of the north of XFSFOPXJOXJOFDPVOUSZ&WFSZDVMUJWBUBCMFQBUDI France decided to act. With the blessing of PGMBOEXBTQMBOUFEXJUIUIFWJOFTUIBUNBLFUIF Pope Innocent III, who branded the Cathars as XFMMLOPXO$PSCJÃSFTXJOFT BOEBUUIFFOUSBODFUP heretics, and with the connivance of the French UIFWJMMBHFXFSFTFWFSBMXJOFSJFTTFMMJOHUIFJSXBSFT ABOVE: Attractions kings, northern nobles descended on the area 8FTBWFEPVSUIJSTUGPSPVSIPUFM UIF"VCFSHFEV in all directions in a series of crusades, beginning in 1208 and 7JHOFSPO XIPTFTVCUFSSBOFBOSFTUBVSBOUXBT FACING PAGE, for many years led by Simon de Montfort, who BXJOFDFMMBSJOBQSFWJPVTMJGF*UTPXOFS .'BOOPZ CLOCKWISE FROM became notorious for his cruelty. Cathars who QMJFEVTXJUIMPDBMWJOEPVYBTBWFJOGJ[[JOH TOP: The Château were caught were burned in communal BQÄSJUJG"EJOOFSPGDBTTPVMFUPOUIFUFSSBDF XJUI de Puilaurens; The conflagrations, 100 or 200 at a time, and their ESFBNZWJFXTUPUIFNPVOUBJOT SPVOEFEPGGUIF Salle de Palmier at lands
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