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Fruits (6), 331–340 | ISSN 0248-1294 print, 1625-967X online | https://doi.org/10.17660/th2017/72.6.1 | © ISHS 2017 Original article Tsiperifery, the wild pepper from Madagascar, emerging on the international market whose exploitation is unchecked: current knowledge and future prospects

1,2,3 1,2 1,2 2,a 4 , M. Weil , R. Randrianaivo2,6 3,7, J. Queste2,8 2,8 2,105 H. Razafimandimby5 , A.-G. Benard , H. Andrianoelisoa , J.-M. Leong Pock Tsy , G. Touati9 , A. Levesque 1 , L. Ramamonjisoa , S. Aubert , J.P. Danflous and P. Danthu 2 3 Département des Recherches Forestières et Piscicoles, FOFIFA, BP 904 Antananarivo, Madagascar 4 DP Forêts et Biodiversité Madagascar, BP 853, Antananarivo, Madagascar Ecole Supérieure des Sciences Agronomiques, Université d’Antananarivo, BP 175 Antananarivo, Madagascar

56 ISTOM, 32, Boulevard du Port, 95094 Cergy-Pontoise, France CIRAD UMR QualiSud, Station Ligne Paradis, 7 Chemin de l’Irat, 97410 Saint-Pierre, BP 180, Réunion, France 7 Département de Recherche Technologiques, Centre National des Recherches Appliquées au Développement Rural, BP 904, 8 Antananarivo, Madagascar Silo National des Graines Forestières, BP 5091, Antananarivo, Madagascar

910 CIRAD, UR Green, Campus de Baillarguet, 34398 Montpellier Cedex 5, France CIRAD, UR Innovation, Station de Bassin Plat, BP 180, 97455 Saint-Pierre Cedex, La Réunion, France Direction Régionale du CIRAD à Madagascar, BP 853, Antananarivo, Madagascar, et CIRAD DGD-RS, Campus de Lavalette, 34398 Montpellier Cedex 5, France Summary Significance of this study Introduction – A new spice on the international What is already known on this subject? market. Tsiperifery is a wild pepper from Madagascar • Tsiperifery, wild pepper of Madagascar, is a new spice belonging to the genus . This new culinary spice, which is gaining gourmet notoriety due to its unique organoleptic properties and its endemic and exotic on the international market. There is hardly any scien- origin, is attracting a growing number of actors to Whattific are knowledge the new findings?on this . harvest and trade it. Scientific challenges – This grow- • ing appetite for tsiperifery is making collection of the plant unsustainable and contributing to the degrada- exploitation.This paper offers a multidisciplinary review of the tion of Malagasy forests with the felling of lianas, as existing scientific knowledge and a diagnosis of its well as host trees, and subsequent deforestation. Lit- What is the expected impact on horticulture? tle is known about the plant, and its trade has devel- • Tsiperifery oped in the relative absence of any scientific knowl- vation in Madagascar, once its domestication is mas edge. There is not even the most basic of informa- tered. is a credible candidate to large-scale culti- tion available regarding its geographic distribution, - taxonomy, ecology or reproductive mode. Moreover, tsiperifery is regarded simply as by Mal- agasy and international regulations. Socio-economic menting a participative process for domesticating challenge – Poorly paid harvesters. The peppercorns the plant. Conclusion – Advocating for the involvement are harvested by pickers from the poorest sector of of all stakeholders. Research has limited impact in the local population, earning them a valued income, a context devoid of economic and political partners, which is nonetheless derisory compared to the gains and funders. Without the involvement of major stake- made by the other market players. Results and discus- holders, it will be no time before tsiperifery finds its sion – Lay the bases for a sustainable management way into the CITES Appendix II. of tsiperifery. This finding indicates that scientific backing aimed at reducing uncertainties about the Keywords biology, exploitation and transformation of the plant Madagascar, tsiperifery, wild pepper, Piper spp., sustain is required to establish the bases for sustainable management of the plant. We suggest supporting the - sector in producing sustainably exploited tsiperifery Résuméable exploitation, non-timber forestry products by exploring different innovations, which would in- clude creating a ‘label’ that guarantees the product’s tsiperifery, le poivre sauvage de Madagascar. quality through association with its origin and imple- Introduction – une épice nouvelle sur le marché international.Le Le tsiperifery est un poivre sauvage de Madagascar appartenant au genre Piper. Ses qualités a Corresponding author: [email protected].

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Razafimandimby Madagascar, it is the object of unchecked collection, contrib organoleptiques uniques, son origine endémique et exotique lui ont conféré, récemment, une forte - notoriété sur le marché international et ont incité uting to the destruction of the ecosystems without providing nombre d’acteurs à s’investir dans sa récolte et son a fair share of profit to the poorest of the island’s population commerce. Enjeux scientifiques – En conséquence de cet (Touati, 2012). engouement, la collecte du tsiperifery est un facteur The sector has been established without any scientific de dégradation des forêts malgaches: abattage des knowledge of the condition of the resource (availability, di- lianes, voire des arbres-support, déforestation. La versity), of the impact of collection on the resource, on the filière s’est organisée alors que très peu de connais- setting up of operations, or on the modes of post-harvest sances scientifiques sont disponibles. Des informa- processing (notably, drying). tions aussi basiques que son aire de répartition, sa A consortium of Malagasy and French researchers over- taxonomie, son écologie, ses modes de reproduction seen by the Dispositif de Recherche et de Formation en ne sont pas actuellement disponibles. Par ailleurs, Partenariat Forêts et Biodiversité (Platform in partnership aucune réglementation malgache ne reconnaît le tsi- for research training forests and biodiversity)tsiperifery. is Inaddressing so doing, perifery, assimilé au poivre noir. Enjeux socio-écono- the issue through an interdisciplinary approach to produce miques – une filière qui rémunère mal les récolteurs theable first exploitation objective of elements this remarkable regarding pepper, taking consider locaux. La récolte est réalisée par les populations lo- ationthey aim of the to ecological,provide the social scientific and economic contribution imperatives to a sustain of its- cales (parmi les plus pauvres de Madagascar) qui en - retirent un revenu appréciable, même s’il est faible tsiperifery comparé aux plus-values des autres acteurs de la fi- harvest,from scratch post-harvest and to draft processing from it a and research trading. project which the lière. Résultats et discussion – poser les bases d’une authorsThis intendpaper toaims implement. to review It the draws knowledge on the earliest of scien gestion durable du tsiperifery. Ce constat nous sug- gère une démarche de recherche d’accompagnement - visant à réduire les incertitudes sur la biologie de la tific elements from the authors’ own investigations via pre- plante, son exploitation, sa transformation. Nous pro- liminary and incomplete student research studies (Touati, posons d’accompagner la filière vers une exploitation 2012; Razafimandimby,et al. 2011; (2014), Ratsaraefatrarivo, that has been supple 2012; durable en explorant différentes innovations: une dé- Levesque, 2012). A single scientific article has been pub- marche de création d’un signe de qualité et d’origine lished to date by Weil - et la mise en œuvre d’un processus participatif de do- mented by information gathered from the internet and, less mestication. Conclusion – plaidoyer pour l’implication formally, from the stakeholders in the supply chain. de tous les acteurs. Toutefois, sans appui ou relais po- Abusive exploitation of a traditional litique, des partenaires économiques ou des grands forestry product bailleurs, la recherche ne pourra pas éviter que le Tsiperifery, an old familiar of the Malagasy people tsiperifery rejoigne, à brève échéance, l’Annexe II de Whilst the organoleptic properties of tsiperifery are la CITES.

Mots-clés only just finding their way into Western cuisine, it has been Madagascar, tsiperifery, poivre sauvage, Piper spp., well-known to the Malagasy population for its culinary and therapeutic properties, for a very long time. A survey amongst people living locally to the forest of exploitation durable, produits forestiers non-ligneux from the capital – who collect and use tsiperifery tradition Tsiazompaniry – a zone with difficult access about 100 km A new culinary spice on the international - market ally shows that they use the plant for its culinary and me- dicinal powers. They are also known to attribute the species tsiper- with esoteric properties (Table 2). This survey assigned a us- ifery, or better still voatsiperifery, the most common com age-index corresponding to the formula devised by Phillips Wild pepper from Madagascar (known locally as and Gentry (1993) of 100%, meaning that every informant - questioned stated they had already used at least one part of mercial tag) has been known to the Malagasy for a long time. the plant for one of the different uses mentioned in Table 2. It was discovered in 2004 by European celebrity chefs, in theThis motivations result shows are a verydifferent. good empirical knowledge of the re- particular Olivier Roellinger, a multi-award winning chef, source and a wide range of uses by local inhabitants, even if and Gérard Vives, the first to import it to Europe (Couplan, 2009; Vives, 2010). Today, its reputation is well established prevalent,Different as vernacularthis pepper names is used for in this place plant of theare traditionalassociated amongst Europe’s restaurateurs, chefs and gourmet spice sakaywith its various uses. Referencessakaiala to its(forest culinary chilli) use and are saka very- merchants. All of them rapidly adopted it, ensuring its pro- rivonala (forest ), sakarivondambo (bushpig ginger). motion to the sound of lyrical praise which plays on the prod- (chilli in Malagasy): uct’s organoleptic merits, as well as its rare, original, exot- are also detectable in indigenous names for the plant: va- ic andSince mysterious 2010, this nature spice associatedhas therefore with been its endemicity the object toof hibeThe plant(great morphology liana), tsimahalatsaka and some of(which its other wards cultural off rainfall uses particularMadagascar interest and the anddifficulties growing of collectingdemand onit (Table the interna 1). tsiperifery is - forand this lightning spice, strikes).as well as And its yet,commercial paradoxically, name, inis relationassociated to tional market (Touati, 2012). However, whilst withits main its wound use, the healing most commonly properties: accepted tsiperifery indigenous, meaning name liter delectablecurrently riding dishes a servedgourmet in wavethe most as a celebratedluxury epicurean restaurants, prod- atuct the available other end in the of thefinest value delicatessens chain, in the and eastern associated forests with of voatsiperifery tsiperifery - ally ‘which makes wounds non-existent’. It is also known as ‘ ’, which means ‘fruit of ’.

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Razafimandimby Table 1. tsiperifery with online prices of tsiperifery.

Gérard Vives Quotes (Vives, from 2010): French and Anglo-Saxon chefs and spice merchants promoting “[…] its aroma bears hints of black pepper and cubeb with woody and earthy notes but with added fresh citrusy and minty notes. Its flavour is very crisp and lingering. It’s got a bite which isn’t fierce but piercing and tenacious. It’s a rare product!”

Bien Manger, http://www.bienmanger.com/ (accessed Feb. 29, 2016): “Its name comes from ‘Voa’ which means fruit and ‘tsiperifery’ which is the name of a plant in Madagascar. This wild-tailed pepper has a complex woody nose, and bitter, spicy aromas. A climber growing up big trees in the tropical rainforest in the South East of the island, it’s picked entirely by hand by communities of villagers. [...] It’s the ideal accompaniment for grilled red meats, enhanced by its woody aroma! It’s marvellous with pork and lamb, foie gras mi-cuit, and even red fruit salad or a moelleux of chocolate.” Price: 87 to 174 € kg-1 according to the packaging.

Epices Roellinger, http://www.epices-roellinger.com/ (accessed Mar. 1, 2016): “Piper borbonense, of the same family as Piper nigrum, voatsiperifery is a real pepper found in the south of Madagascar. It grows between 10 to 20 metres on creepers in the crown of big trees. Its harvest is so difficult and dangerous that sometimes pickers prefer to cut the trees down... It’s a gentle and aromatic pepper, and suits those who don’t like the ‘meaty’ side to Piper nigrum. I like to use it with sea food, steamed vegetables and fruit. It can be eaten whole.” Price: 202 € kg-1.

Les épices rient!, http://www.lesepicesrient.fr/ (accessed Feb. 29, 2016): “[...] This little peppercorn is full of surprises, a real pepper of distinction! Its nose takes you on a veritable plant journey which begins on a blend of full bodied notes of freshness and warmth. The journey continues on the taste buds with the finest of aromatic but the lightest of spicy hints. Wild pepper from Madagascar has no bite: an exquisite spice, full of finesse, it tickles the tongue artfully. We can’t get enough of it!” Price: 197 € kg-1.

Spice Trekkers, http://spicetrekkers.com/ (accessed Mar. 23, 2016): “A truly unique wild cubeb sourced from Madagascar. Its growing notoriety amongst Western chefs testifies to the incredibly aromatic profile of this pepper. Ready to take the world by storm. Like cubeb, black and long peppers, voatsiperifery is a true pepper. The woody and floral fragrance of these dense red-brown peppercorns evokes citrus. It has been called upon in Madagascar’s culinary culture for centuries and is ideal for fish and seafood recipes. Its subtle sweetness and moderate heat are great for desserts and chocolate. For a great red meat seasoning, blend voatsiperifery pepper with other varieties. At one time this was an extremely rare spice. But it is gradually becoming a staple spice for adventurous and inventive cooks.” Price: 250 US$ kg-1.

Sous Chef, http://www.souschef.co.uk/ (accessed Feb. 22, 2016): “Voatsiperifery is an incredibly rare pepper with a strong, pine forest nose, and medium heat – distinguished by light, zesty flavours. Voatsiperifery pepper grows in the hot and humid South-Eastern Madagascan rainforests, where the pepper vines can reach 20 m tall, and only grow in the wild, making picking very difficult. The unripe berries are all hand-harvested by local village communities, and left to dry in the sun which turns the berries black […]. Voatsiperifery is a beautiful pepper – and a great to lift any dish, whether meat or fish, particularly rich oily fish, or pork.The pepper is also good in sweet dishes, whether sprinkled over a fruit salad, or used to cut through the richness of a chocolate cake.” Price: 100 to 133 £ kg-1.

Table 2. tsiperifery Uses of by Malagasy people: results of an enquiry amongst 101 pickers (in the areas surrounding Anjozorobe, Ankaï and Fianarantsoa), 27 collectors and 11 exporters located in Antananarivo and Toamasina). Only the most frequentUsages replies, reportedParts of at plant least used five times, werePreparations taken into account (adapted from RazafimandimbyUses [2011]). Culinary Fruits Paste of fresh crushed fruit – ingredient of sakay (chilli pepper) blended with oil – spice of ravitoto (traditional dish of crushed manioc leaves) – curry substitute Whole or ground dried fruit – spice for enhancing meats, sausages and fish Pharmacopoeia Leaves Ground – poultice for wound healing Fruits Whole or crushed – antitussive, bronchial infections Ground only – for treating male sexual disorders (generic use for sakay) Stems Infusion of stems – used externally for gangrene, scabies and skin lesions – for post–natal infections – for treating venomous animal bites – restoring liver function Esoteric Leaves Ground leaves – wards off lightning strikes provoked by an ombiasy (sorcerer) Stems and roots Herbal tea – ingredients for potions and ointments against magical spells Leaves Leaf thrown in the air – prevents rainfall

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Razafimandimby

Figure 1. Mapping trial of the sites where tsiperifery was present, and the gathering spots and sampling points of specimens

referenced in the herbaria (TEF and TAN) of Madagascar.

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Razafimandimby It is sold on local markets (small markets neighbouring thotropic stems growing from the collar bear cordate leaves (Figure 2c) whilst the plagiotropic branches in the crown theand forests), Fianarantsoa). medium-sized markets (in the towns located near the collection points) and regional markets (in Antananarivo have elliptical to oblong shaped leaves (Figure 2d). The plant A wild liana of the rainforest is dioecious. Male and female inflorescences are composed of solitary spikes opposite the leaf (Figures 2e–f). Its fruits consist of small berries ranging in color at maturity from red Whilst certain information regarding the plant, its biology to orange (Figure 2g). These berries retain their pedicels, ariesand its of ecology tsiperifery is available, there is still a lot of basic knowl- which detach themselves from the stalk on drying (like the edge lacking. Currently, information as basic as the bound- cubeb). This explains why they are sometimes referred to as ’s distribution is not completely fixed. Fig- ‘tailed pepper of Madagascar’. They flower annually.tsiperifery Optimal be andure 1the is ancollection attempt points to synthesize of specimens current deposited knowledge in Madaon its longsfruiting to time the isPiper between October and December. distribution, based essentially on the word of the collectors containsThese more botanical than elements2,000 known confirm species that throughout the- - genuset al ( family).et Thisal., 2008), genus gascar’s two national herbaria (TEF of the Centre National de less than 600 of which have been described (Jaramillo and Recherchesthat tsiperifery Appliquées au Développement Rural, and TAN of world (Quijano-Abril ., 2006; Jaramillo the Parc Botanique et Zoologique de Tsimbazaza). It shows tsiperifery can be found in the majority of the evergreen Manos, 2001). However, the taxonomic classification of forests in eastern Madagascar right from Antsiranana at the is unclear. The last valid revision of the tsiperiferyclassifica- northern tip down to Taolagnaro in the south. intotion ofthree the species:Malagasy Piper peppers borbonense established byPiper De Candolle pyrifolium in thatThe certain plant species is a liana, of treewhich take climbs prevalence up to 10 over to 12others metres as Vahl,1923 and(De PiperCandolle, pachyphyllum 1923; Decary, 1946) divides supportson a support, Peponidium generally buxifolium large trees, Bremeria (Figure trichophlebia 2a). It appears, Di- named Piper borbonense, what producesC.DC, “a sort of cubeb chaethantera arborea, Cryptocarya spp., Ocotea spp., Syzyg- Baker. In 1946, Decary (1946)et ium al. pepper” amongst Madagascar’s stimulant . Manjato spp. (Razafimandimby, 2011). The liana climbs up the cies (2010) of Piper produced in Madagascar a new includingclassification P. pachyphyllum in 2010 which, P. bor re- support attaching itself by roots which are produced at the bonense,mains provisional P. heimii and unpublished, identifying thirteen spe- nodes (Figure 2b). The leaves are simple and alternate. Leaf dimorphism can be seen to occur in the same plant. The or- , and four new endemic species, which may

Figure 2 tsiperifery

. Botanical elements: a) on its support; b) clinging roots; c) cordate leaves; d) elliptical leaves; e) male inflorescence; f) female inflorescence; g) mature bunch of fruit (Photos by Razafimandimby).

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Razafimandimby Number of exporters Number of exporters

YearsYears

Progression in the number of exporters of Figure 3. F IGURE 3. tsiperifery tsiperifery

Progression in the number of exporters supplied of by the supplied catchment by thearea catchment of Anjozorobe-Angavo area of Anjozorobe- from 2006 to 2015.Angavo from 2006 to 2015. correspond to descriptions of tsiperifery. It is obvious from It seems nevertheless that picking exceeded the Piper genus in Madagascar that “tsiperifery” these infrageneric classification studies of the natural production capacity of the first areas exploited. As as a generic denomination very a consequence, handlers have extended their collecting likely applies to more than one species. areas and opened up new supply catchments. The exported to: whetherStudies usingthe variations the tools observed of molecular represent biology infrageneric are in peppercorns still come mainly from two areas: the progress to clarify this information andtsiperifery provide answers as natural forests of Angavo (worked since 2006) and Ankaï (worked since 2009) (Figure 1). An operation began in the ortsiperifery infraspecific is with diversity; P. borbonense whether are really FianarantsoaWithin these corridor collecting in 2009 areas, (Figure and 1)external but it appearedto the local to endemic to Madagascar; what the genetic association of traditionalhave ceased market, in 2012 (Touati,the tsiperifery 2012). operation is organized from Reunion Island; what the relationship is between genetic diversity and organoleptic tsiperifery domesticationquality, and whether of tsiperifery. there is a potential in genetic selection as a supply chain with four levels at most (Figure 4). The for improving the quality of products, offering prospects for operation still seems to be driven predominantly A recent and systematic operation areby a locallogic peasantof short termfarmers gain with and maximummeagre earnings, profit. who live in orThe bordering pickers areon the firstforest, link and in thesubsist supply on chain.food crops, They the economic potential of tsiperifery and snapped it up. SinceLocal its entrepreneursinception in 2004, and exportersthe export promptly sector identifiedhas been beginningsupplemented of the by picking what theyseason, can the earn pickers from are collecting approached non- timber forest products such as honey and pepper. At the rapidly developing. In one of the oldest picking catchments, at Anjozorobe-Angavo, the number of handlers has risen by the handlers, the second link in the chain. businesses,from two in a 2006 number to around of foreign ten companiesat present, havevarying developed widely (chilliThese peppers, handlers guavas, are ginger...) not selling specialised; them on they to exporters act as theirfrom own one yearsectors, to anothertrading nonetheless (Figure 3). Addedin what to seems these to local be intermediaries and deal in a wide diversity of local products

and national distributors located in the urban centres (mainly tsiperiferylow volumes (Touati, 2012). acrossin Antananarivo the island and and Toamasina), exported on who the makeinternational up the third market. level Touati (2012) estimated around 50 t the total exports of in the supply chain. The produce is then sold in retail shops (dry peppercorns) in 2011. In 2014, an estimated participants.weight of 25 t Sincewas exported. wild pepper These is figures at present need tounregulated, be treated freshThe tsiperifery handlers tomanage their clientsthe operations because ofof sorting,the increasing drying, with caution, as they are estimates provided by the sector storing and transporting the fruits. It is rare that they deliver

it is presently exported as black pepper and therefore not remoteness of the growing zones and because drying exported,referenced which under show Madagascar’s that the trade exports in tsiperifery(Raharijaona, addresses 2015). cheaperand then to transporting transport, sell the for dry more peppercorns and are easier improves to keep. the However, these figures give a rough idea of the quantities operation’s profitability. Indeed, dry batches do not rot, are et al., 2014). a niche market compared with other exported by Some even use their storage facility to speculative ends. 19 Madagascar, such as and (Danthu

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Razafimandimby A resource faced with multiple threats

Environmental risks associated with destructive picking practices tsiperifery would have been picked at an opportune time whilst out in the forest for other activities (hunting,Previously collecting other produce), but now it is collected

destructive method of picking, which consists in ripping systematically. This excessive strain is aggravated by a

pickingaway the method fruiting leads creeper to the from rarefaction its host of andfemale even rootstock cutting inthe the support growing along zones. with Whilst the liana it endangers to access the the resource berries. itself, This

it alsoMoreover, harms the the forest abundance ecosystems of tsiperifery and exhausts vines the is pickingviewed catchment area in the short-term. sign that the soil is right for slash and burn (tavy by the locals as an indication of soil fertility and as such a et al in Malagasy, a widespread agricultural practicetsiperifery in the eastern either stripped forestry corridor [Aubert ., 2003]). Consequently, it is not unusual to see an area richly supplied in bare or transformed into paddy field (Levesque, 2012). Timber poaching further encourages new openings in the thecanopy, shade thus essential depriving for wildthe growth pepper of vines the vine,of both resulting potential in hosts (Touati, 2012; Razafimandimby, 2011), as well as Figure 4. Structure of the sector and retail price scale the destruction of their ecosystem to which they are very tsiperifery in the picking catch sensitive (Razafimandimby, 2011). -1 (Ariary kg ) for fresh and dry - of tsiperifery.On this basis stands the difficult issue of balancing the ment of Angavo forest in 2015. preservation of the ecosystems and a sustainable exploitation Variations in the product quality, a threat to the reputation of tsiperifery batchesThere can arebe sold no to contractual a higher bidder, relationships not to mention between an tsiperifery is considered pickers, handlers and exporters. At each level of the sector, the possibilities for technical support, which might result The organoleptic quality of inopportunistic improvements buyer. to theThe technical,lack of structure environmental in the sector and sociallimits very unreliable by those involved in the operation, notably exporters and retailers, but also consumers, when tsiperiferyquestioned. This irregularity and sometimes mediocrity in qualities of the product. the quality could in the long run damage the reputation of (FigureThere 4). is It an apportions extreme inequity the smallest in the earnings distribution to the of poorest added , deterring buyers and impacting on the incomes of locatedvalue between at the upper participants reaches in of the the wild operation pepper and supply generates chain the sector’s different operators. Handlers and exporters point the finger at postharvest treatments and irregularitieset al in. (2014). the maturity However, of there the more profit for those downstream. The picker sells 1 kg fresh picked berries as a reason for this decline in quality, what peppercorns to the handler for 3,000 Ariary (MGA) (0.80 €). has been validated by Weil Consideringtsiperifery the fresh berries containtsiperifery 80% in moisture, Europe and this might be other factors such as genetic variability and the amount is roughly equivalent to 15,000 MGA (4 €) per kilo in environment (climate, terroir, soil, phyto-sociology) behind of dry (Figure 4). Dry -1 this variability. Handlers and exporters also complain about the USA can sell for anything up to and above 200 € kg the instability of supply connected to unreliable provision. isdelicatessens a rough calculation, and online it shows (Table that 1; Figure the operators 4). Consequently, upstream Quantities collected vary substantially throughout the year, the picker receives 2% of the product’s final value. Whilst this and from one year to the next. Some operators explain this other export operations, such as the sector, in which irregularity by the inter-annual variation in production of in the wild pepper sector come off very badly compared with lianas and others put it down to resource rarefaction. The latter argument is supported by the fact that pickers have to the producer receives up to 15% onof thethe-1 product’s European final wholesale value: hourtrek further now takes and morefurther than into six, the and forest, in order each toyear, ensure to find a good new the producer is etpaid al 20,000 MGA-1 kg cloves, equivalent to crop,fruiting some vines. pickers The foragingin certain expedition zones now that spend used four to taketo seven one 5.70 €, and it is sold <100 € kg market (Danthu ., 2014; Demangel, 2011). The authors believe that the impact of uncontrolled days camping out in the forest to reach areas suspected etto beal. expansion in the sector on a badly identified resource about well-supplied with lianas. resource,which neither but also the the availability distribution nor of theearnings biology between is known the One field of knowledge, just opened up by Weil differentneeds to participantsbe assessed. shouldSimilarly, be theascertained. impact on the biological (2014), raises questions about the quality oftsiperifery the products. vines The impact of postharvest treatments and the irregularity in the maturity of the berries on the quality of

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Razafimandimby A process for creating a ‘label’ of quality and origin, the basis for sustainable management remain to be explored, as well as the influences of biological determinants (genetic and morphological diversity) and the Researchecological conditions implicated for expressing in the the development organoleptic quality. Wild pepper from Madagascar ranks highly amongst the of a sustainable sector premium quality, niche market spices (Couplan, 2009; Vives, 2010). The reputation it enjoys on the international market tsiperifery exploitation in ofis basedMadagascar. on its organoleptic qualities, its unique origin and Madagascar.At the present Information time, a context and data combining collected significant to date lead uncer us to- rarity. Distributors and exporters thus tap into the exoticism concludetainty and that urgency the various hangs stakeholders over in the sector, pickers, whose origin is known to the consumer coincides with the handlers, economic operators and public authorities operate emergenceThe boom of societalin international concerns demand such as for environmental ‘quality’ products con servation, fair trade and enhancement of cultural heritage. of real stock, the sustainable level of picking, the different - without reliable knowledge of the plant ecology, the extent tsiperifery Developing a recognized seal of quality may therefore con- pickingof knowledge practices, and theor the absence impact of ofsome treatments form of coordinationon the qual- tribute to the sustainability of pepper. Obtaining a ity of the product and the durability of the sector. This lack quality label is a voluntary procedure carried out by a group to promote a product by highlighting a distinctive compara- in the sector are two limiting factors. A companion research tive advantage. The reason for this distinction may be in the project may go some way to addressing these factors. Reduc- production, processing or marketing of the product. There ing uncertainties about the biology of the plant, its exploita- anare consumers many different are, typesfor example, of voluntary the labels quality of labelsorigin forsuch food as tionHowever, and transformation at its current may rate improve of degradation, the relevancy the resourceof stake- products. Amongst those which are well-known to Europe- holders’ decisions and actions. before the process of circulating innovations is implement protected geographical indication (PGI), and protected des- ed.cannot It seems wait imperative for scientific to knowledgeaccelerate the to innovation be fully conclusive process ignation of origin (PDO), the various national and European tsiperifery in a combined part- organic farminget al logos and the Fairtrade certification. Accord- nership between scientists, economic operators, administra ing to Amsallem (2010), Gloanec and Porphyre (2012), and by grounding the research on - socialBarjolle and economic.. (2013), the certification of quality associated - with origin brings benefits in three spheres: environmental, tive bodies and local communities. Adopting the so-called paradigm of post-normal science (Funtowicz and Ravetz, Pepper from Penja (Cameroon), white honey from Oku researchers1993) would collaborate enable the with delay all in stakeholders knowledge productionshould bring to (Cameroon) as well as coffee from Ziama (Guinea), were the be bridged. A consultative participatory approach in which marketfirst officially opportunities protected and geographicalincreasing incomes indications for the (PGI) differ in entAfrica. participants This approach in local appears operations, to be conducive including to the improving pickers about an improvement in efficiency of the innovation processet al., tsiperifery- (Joly2003) and in theLemarié, tsiperifery 2000) sector. and simultaneously accompany the from Madagascar. emergence of sustainable adaptive governance (Dietz (AFD, 2014). Such an approach may also benefit waite et al. well established and, as applied to tsiperifery, would consist The proposed strategy takes its inspiration from Douth- The implementation process of a geographical indication is (2001) ‘Follow the Technology’ concept. It con- tsiperifery sists of relaying to local communities and economic opera- (ii)in the following stages (AFD, 2014): evaluationtors credible of technicaladoption, solutions refusal or which, adaptation whilst of not these completely techni (i) tiesdefine (means the intrinsic of harvesting, qualities postharvest of treatments,; etc finalised,cal solutions offer will ‘plausible feed into promises’ the recurring of success. innovation Follow-up process. and (iii) define and clarify the factors determining these quali- - ment, good picking practices, processing and preserv .); authors to consider implementing the concept at a local lev ingdraft related detailed regulations, technical etcspecifications (plant manage- Preliminary results currently in the pipeline will allow the (iv) - - (v) .); eltsiperifery at several, and sites (ii) and a process in two ofcomplementary domestication and drawn connected from a delineate favorable production areas; spheres:pool of selected (i) development plant matter. of a ‘label’ of quality and origin of (vi) identify all concerned value-chain stakeholders (pick- latingers, handlers, the label. exporters); and apply to the bodies responsible for granting and regu- We are currently working on these two major areas of re- However, there are potential obstacles inherent in the search within various projects funded by (or accountable to) process, such as the fact that Madagascar is not a member different financing bodies: the European Union through proj- ects supported by the European Development Fund (EDF), the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International De- thermore,of the OAPI providing (Organisation for a Africaine geographical de la indicationPropriété Intellecprocess- velopment (PISCCA fund for civil society: ‘Innovative projects tuelle) which registered the first PGI mentioned above. Fur- from Civil Societies and Coalitions of Actors’). Whilst these projects involve research, implicating particularly the pres- in developing countries requires certain key issues to be ent authors’ collective, they also require the actors in the addressed, starting et with al a system to achieve dialogue and supply chain to join forces, specifically those downstream negotiation among stakeholders (Cormier-Salem and Rous- (entrepreneurs/exporters). The priority in these projects is linksel, 2009;sustainable François production ., 2009). and A processingset of specifications methods mustwith theto improve upstream the element competitiveness, (pickers/collectors). organization, sustainability, then be determined (‘code of practice’) that would explicitly ethics and reputation of the sector, with specific reference to the acquisition of anticipated qualities (intrinsic and extrin- sic) of the local produce (Cormier-Salem and Roussel, 2009).

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Razafimandimby In the face of these observations and in order to establish the bases for sustainable exploitation of wild pepper in Mad The stakeholders in the operation would further be requiredet al., to organize themselves in such a way as to support and make and fair earnings for all the operators, research would be- a concertedWith regard commitment to tsiperifery to wild their pepper, product the (François entire process organisedagascar, whilst around ensuring three axes:the conservation (i) improve ofknowledge the ecosystems of the 2009). tation of its distribution area, the evaluation of its total stock would currently be difficult to accomplish. Some prerequi- andplant’s the biology, characterisation particularly of itsthe genetic transformation diversity, proceduresthe delimi- delimitationsites are lacking, of the such production as the officialzone, all PGI of which registration depend pro on- furthercess in Madagascar,research. However, as well some as quality promising characterization assets are pres and used to optimise the quality of its products; (ii) develop - (iii)technical support itineraries the coordination for domestication, of the sector by exploring via a process ecolog of- ent. Firstly, the operation relies on the involvement of a very ical and social effects of different domestication strategies; small number of players. The product is highly profitable for pickers, processors and traders. Research is already active- co-construction of a collective ‘label’ involving all the stake- ly participating. Some developments could therefore be en- thoritiesholders. Consideringand local communities the urgency is proposedand fragility in orderof the to situa test,- visaged through a process oftsiperifery capacity pickers.building (AFD, 2014). tion, a strategy involving scientists, economic operators, au- From this perspective, the first stage could be to back the cre- Domesticationation of a collective for bodysustainable of management evaluate and rapidly transfer (or not) the innovations. supportHowever, the project. such Without an approach proactive can support only be from effective govern if proposes to open up is the domestication of tsiperifery mentbacked authorities, by a sustained professional political stakeholdersand economic and commitment internation to The second field of action research that the collective al organisations, tsiperifery Eu- phorbia intisy, Prunus africana - and(Ceuppens, reduce the2014). rate This of picking would fromensure the fruit natural production environment. which could rapidly join the ranks of Inis boththe long stable run, and domestication easy to manage enables in a quality process and of improve quantity, , and the Malagasy rosewoods inAcknowledgments the CITES Appendix ll. However, the domestication of a forest species is a com- ment in the intrinsic quality of the plant and the produce.tsiper- ifery - This study was carried out by the DP ‘Forêts et plex procedure (Simons and Leakey, 2004). Where Biodiversité’, a partnership between FOFIFA, the University is concerned, it requires interdisciplinary research to of Antananarivo and CIRAD. It was supported by ‘France be applied to different aspects of the activity: (i) geneticist, Volontaires’. The authors would like to thank the FSP ‘Parrur’ quality experts, chemists and biologists to define and select (project ‘InnovEpice’) funded by the French Ministry of a superior quality plant material; (ii) agronomists and ecol- Foreign Affairs and International Development, the QualiReg ogists to improve propagation methods; (iii) technologists translation.network, and CIRAD which funded this study. The association and agronomists to ensure the proficiency in the product’s ‘Words for Solidarity’ is gratefully acknowledged for the tsiperiferytransformation; operation. and (iv) sociologists and economists to high- References light different ways of developing and organising a domestic et al. This domestication would bring about positive outcomes AFD (Agence Française de Développement) (2014). L’AFD et les for local populations as shown by Leakey (2005): de- indications géographiques protégées – valoriser les savoir-faire et addedcline in important poverty, improvements consideration inis thathousehold it will also income bring of about pick- accroître les revenus des producteurs (Paris, France: AFD), 4 pp. ers, food security, reduced pressures on the ecosystem. An Amsallem, I. (2010). Indications géographiques: qualité des produits, environnement et cultures, Savoirs Communs 9 (Agence Française de novationa reconfiguration process shouldin the socialmakes and it possible spatial toproduction anticipate activi these- Développement et Fonds Français pour l’Environnement Mondial). ties. The involvement of local stakeholders early on in the in- desAubert, tavy S., Razafiarison, S., and Bertrand, A. (eds.) (2003). changes and preserve a degree of equity in the share of the Déforestation et systèmes agraires à Madagascar – Les dynamiques sur la côte orientale (Montpellier, France: Cirad/Cite/Fofifa). Advocacyprofits of this for domestication.involving all players of the tsiperifery sector Barjolle, D., Renard, O., and Bernardoni, P. (2013). Etude du potentiel de la commercialisation des produits agricoles des pays ACP (Afrique, Caraïbes, Pacifique) utilisant des indications géographiques et des . There are some very old, well documented examples of marques avec origine (Lausanne, Switserland: REDDPygeum SA). africanum suchpoorly as thought Euphorbia out intisy exploitation of Madagascar’sth non-timberet BIODEV (1999). Etude de la filière flore sauvage: alforestry products such as naturalPrunus rubber africana (from forest species Rapport final (Antananarivo, Madagascar: Unité de Coordination du ) in the early 19 century (Danthu PEII/Forêt,Ceuppens, Q. Ministère (2014). desMadagascar Eaux et Forêts), wild pepper 71 pp. at risk. http://www. ., 2016), and more recently (BIODEV, 1999; Stewart, 2003; Jimu, 2011). They resulted in a weakening agriculture-biodiversité-oi.org/en/Nature-agriculture/New-from- of the resource such that the plant species in question have the-field/Articles (accessed Apr. 1, 2016). been classified in the CITES appendix II (CITES, 2016), which implies that trading them is subject to official approval org/fra/app/appendices.phpCITES (Convention on International (accessed Trade Mar. in 20,Endangered 2016). Species of and quotas. These sectors consequently slumped and the Wild Fauna and Flora) (2016). Appendices I, II and III. https://cites. products now traded in their place are substitutes. It can only be assumed from the dynamics observed combined with a Cormier-Salem, M.C., and Roussel,50 B. (2009). Localiser les produits tsiperiferylack of a sustainable is heading inmanagement the same direction. strategy for the resource et valoriser les spécialités locales – Une dynamique générale and its valorization context and control (CITES, 2016) that et foisonnante, Autre part , 3–15. https://doi.org/10.3917/ autr.050.0003.

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