Veggie Garden Tips & Tricks

FROM THE EDITORS OF Gardeningfine

VEGGIE GARDEN TIPS & TRICKS Ideas to help you have your most successful harvest ever! fine Your Gardening thank-you gift! CONTENTS

Welcome to the world of vegetable 4 Basil basics and beyond gardening! Chances are if you’ve down- Learn the tricks to reduce disease and increase your harvest loaded this reference guide, you’re already well on your way to having an incredible 12 Easy-to-grow sweet peppers edible space this year. Perhaps you’ve Follow an expert’s tips for a colorful and bountiful crop started a plethora of seeds, ﬁgured out where they’re going to live outside, and 18 Cherry tomatoes maybe you’ve even given some thought The right variety and care will give you larger harvests to the dishes you’ll make once harvest and better flavor than the big boys time comes. But there are a lot of steps between when a seed sprouts and a 26 Which tomato stakes tomato gets picked. This time period is are right for you? Learn the pros and cons of six different types what can make or break your garden. 32 The lazy gardener’s guide The following is a comprehensive collection to pruning tomatoes of articles to help you have the garden of Following these simple steps will have you your dreams this season—one that is as vegging out instead of stressing out productive as it is beautiful. We provide you with expert tips and tricks for planting, 36 Potatoes in a tower? growing, and troubleshooting your veg- This unique method allows you to grow 20 pounds gies. And when it’s time to start reaping of spuds in an area less than 4 square feet the rewards of your efforts, we provide you 42 with some simple yet delicious recipes for Growing your own green beans Regular watering and frequent picking your bountiful harvest. This advice comes yield a bountiful harvest from authors who have had decades of experience growing tomatoes, beans, and 50 A better way to water myriad of other veggies and herbs. There Doing it right is the difference between having are a lot of beneﬁts to growing your own a good garden and a great garden food, so let Fine Gardening ensure that your efforts this year are super successful. 54 Secrets to summer squash A few simple strategies keep them going strong all season long

62 Summer melons Use these simple strategies for a quicker harvest and the best flavor

70 Pumpkins Follow these easy steps to grow the king of vegetables

78 Extending the growing season Proper plant protection means that gardeners anywhere can harvest during fall and winter

Danielle Sherry Senior editor, Fine Gardening

All recipe photos by Taunton staff. ‘Siam Queen’ ‘Lime’ ‘Minette’ ‘Cardinal’ ‘Genovese’ ‘Lemon’ ‘Lettuce Leaf’ BASIL BASICS AND BEYOND Learn the tricks to reduce disease and increase your harvest BY LISA HILGENBERG

here’s a reason that even those who don’t of basil: sweet basils, small-leaved/dwarf basils, purple- have a vegetable garden still try to grow leaved basil, and basils with specially scented leaves. Tbasil: because it’s delicious and almost as ver- Sweet basils are the tender large-leaved varieties satile in the landscape as it is in the kitchen. Garden- such as ‘Genovese’ and ‘Napoletano’. Staples in Ital- ers have long been enamored with basil, appreciating ian cooking, they are the aromatic and flavor-packed its many attributes, including its ability to enhance pesto makers. They are slower to bolt than other types flower beds, attract pollinators, and provide ubiquitous of basil and range in size from 16 to 24 inches tall aromatherapy in pots on the terrace. A luscious herb and wide. Small-leaved basils, on the other hand, are that’s irreplaceable to the cook, basil is the thing food- well-behaved dwarf plants that generally stay under ies say no tomato should be eaten without. This tricky a foot tall and wide. While they are the quickest to herb does require certain conditions to thrive, how- flower, their neat, compact habit looks as good form- ever. It also needs some specific attention through the ing an edge around the tomato bed as it does softening season to prevent disease and to keep the plants from the rim of a container planting. Small-leaved basils are flowering too soon and becoming unproductive. Basil spicy with notes of anise and clove, and you can har- doesn’t have to be a gamble, though, if you thought- vest entire branches of the plants and strip off the tiny fully select the best type to fit your needs and give it leaves to sprinkle on hors d’oeuvres and salads. the right care. Purple basils are generally thought to be less culinary than sweet basil, but they provide a long season of Select varieties for looks and flavor beauty. They are usually in the same size range as sweet Basil comes in an array of flavors, colors, shapes, and basils. Fragrant, scented-leaved basils entice us with an sizes. In order to cultivate a productive harvest or extra flavor dimension of lemon, lime, or cinnamon. ornamental companion, pay close attention to the And trust me, we all scream for lime-basil ice cream variety you are planting and the care that variety in my family. You can sow the seeds of these basils as needs to ensure success. There are four basic types thickly as you would microgreens. Then simply thin

Basils are more diverse than you might think. You may know ‘Genovese’ basil (far left), but dwarf basils (far middle left), purple-leaf basils (near middle left), and ‘Lettuce Leaf’ basil (right) all offer bold flavors too. Photo: Photo:

FINEGARDENING.COM 5 VARIETIES

An array of basils that can’t be beat Whether you’re growing basil for the best flavor possible or looking to add a little pow to the beauty of the veggie patch, there’s a variety that’s just right for you.

1 foot

‘CINNAMON’ ‘MINETTE’ DWARF BASIL ‘LIME’ ‘SIAM QUEEN’ THAI BASIL Pretty enough to grow with Dwarf basils are the definition A citrus-scented basil in a ‘Siam Queen’ is an All-America ornamentals, ‘Cinnamon’ basil of well-behaved landscape petite-statured plant, ‘Lime’ Selections winner with narrow, has dark purple bracts and plants. ‘Minette’ is reminiscent basil tops out at 20 inches tall shiny green leaves, purple stems, shiny green leaves, and of a clipped boxwood topi- and 12 inches wide. The leaves stems, and fragrant plum flow- deep pink flowers. The succu- ary and can form low uniform are smaller and cup upward ers that make long-lasting lent, cinnamon-flavored leaves borders around beds. The as if to preserve their oils for additions to cut floral arrange- have a particularly strong flavor compact 1-foot-tall and 8-inch- brightening Thai dishes. ‘Lime’ ments. The 12-to-16-inch- tall-and-wide plants have a Air circulation is essential. Proper spacing allows air to flow and are occasionally used in wide plants are also charming basil has a straightforward balanced proportion of flowers between plants, which in turn helps prevent fungal diseases that and eat the pluckings, making space for the 20-inch-tall- stir-fries and in vinegars. in pots. flavor that enhances salsas, tend to plague this crop. Although it may not be used Though the leaves are tiny, salad dressings, vegetable to foliage. Like all Thai basils, and-wide plants. a lot in culinary pursuits, ‘Cin- they pack a spicier punch than curries, and herbal teas and ‘Siam Queen’ has a pungent, namon’ basil is a standout as larger-leaved sweet basil variet- contributes a fresh twist to sweet, slightly spicy flavor Give plants warm temperatures and rich soil a mosquito repellent. At the ies. This plant blooms early, so marinades for fish or chicken. reminiscent of anise, licorice, Chicago Botanic Garden, we snip off entire branches instead and clove. Add a few bruised Basil hails from warm climates, so timing is everything. find it has poorer germination, of harvesting individual leaves leaves to your next gin and One brush with temperatures below 50°F (plants actu- which can be improved by just before flowering begins in tonic, and enjoy. ally prefer above 60°F and take off at 80°F) will stunt keeping seed trays moist but early summer. not too wet. plant growth, if not completely end their growing season. Once weakened, plants become more susceptible to pests and disease, struggling all season long. Starting basil seeds indoors under lights or in a greenhouse provides the optimum conditions for sprouting. Germina- tion in a soilless mix of peat, vermiculite, and perlite is quick—just six days for most varieties. Aim for 64°F to 75°F soil (use a heat mat if you need to). Transplant your strongly rooted 7-to-8-week-old plants into the garden after the last frost date. I like to pinch the central growth tip of the young plants (which ‘CARDINAL’ ‘LETTUCE LEAF’ ‘DARK OPAL’ ‘PESTO PERPETUO’ should be about 5 inches tall) down to two sets of This variety may be too gor- As the name suggests, ‘Let- Most purple basils eventually This is a beautiful, newer, leaves after planting. This promotes a bushier, stronger geous to eat, with its succulent tuce Leaf’ basil sports large, revert to one of their parents nonflowering hybrid with var- plant. There’s no rush moving plants outdoors. I wait green leaves on purple stems, 6-inch-long leaves on robust and end up with mottled pur- iegated light green and fresh plumes of plum flowers, and plants. Given room, it grows ple-and-green leaves by mid- cream foliage and a shaggy until the second week in June in my Zone 5b/6 garden a spicy cinnamon scent. We’ll to a height of 2 to 3 feet with season. ‘Dark Opal’ is the columnar habit. Since it never to avoid the cool, wet spring weather. just call ‘Cardinal’ the ultimate a similar width—enough for only cultivar with pure purple bolts and keeps producing Basil needs fertile, well-drained soil in a warm, pro- ornamental edible—although it a summer bounty of pesto. foliage that lasts. Fragrant and leaves all season long, you may is great in stir-fry. ‘Lettuce Leaf’ is a type of attractive, its spiciness is best end up with more pesto than tected spot. It’s not drought tolerant and can be dam- sweet basil that is slow to used fresh. you have an appetite for. aged by heat stress. If you plant basil in a windy spot bolt, so you’ll be continually that dries out quickly, it will do best with a bit of shade picking leaves before the white flowers appear. A postplanting pinch is a good idea. Prune back new in the afternoon. Keep soil moisture consistent. Flag- transplants to two sets of leaves to help the plants bush ging from drought and then being deluged with water out faster. stresses plants, which can lead to disease. Mulch helps

6 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 7 You can get a lot of BASICS basil from a small ▾ bed. This 4-foot-wide by 8-foot-long bed is filled with ‘Fino Verde’ (front), How to deal with diseases ‘Genovese’ (middle), and ‘Opal’ and ‘Purple Ruffles’ There are two fairly common diseases to which basils are susceptible. (far corner). Each has its own set of challenges when it comes to prevention.

▸ Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne pathogen This disease causes yellowing of the leaves; discolored, twisted stems; and stunted growth. Sometimes the first thing you’ll notice is that the leaves suddenly Get rid of the flowers. Once a basil plant starts flowering, it drop off the plant. Sweet stops producing leaves—which is what you want more of. So be basil varieties tend to be sure to cut off the blooms as soon as you see them. the most susceptible. Thankfully, work to develop basil cultivars relatively resistant to fusarium wilt has been to maintain even moisture, but wait until the soil has done. The disease is passed warmed to 70°F before laying it to avoid accidentally along through contaminated encouraging fungal issues. seed, so look closely at seed packaging and buy only seeds that have been tested and certified Good circulation and proper pinching as disease-free. Fusarium wilt overwinters in keeps them healthy contaminated garden soil, making crop rotation your Location and spacing are equally as important as tim- best defense and avoiding excessive watering a ing. Individual basil plants should be allowed at least a close second. square foot of bed space, which allows air to circulate freely around all sides. High humidity and overwatering are the enemies of basil. Avoiding overhead watering ▸ Downy mildew is the most current threat (which promotes fungal disease) and rotating your basil Downy mildew on basil is rec- crop each year (rather than repeatedly planting it in the ognizable by yellowing on the same spot and reintroducing soil-borne disease) will tops of leaves with pathogen increase your growing success. Given a bit of thoughtful growth and gray spores on the undersides of leaves. care, basil rewards you with vigorous plants all summer. Plant breeders are busy Keep basil productive by removing the flowers at the developing new, resistant bud stage. Blossoms deplete the plant’s energy, which p. 7 (bottom right) courtesy of Lisa Hilgenberg, p. 4 (bottom right), 6; Hadley, pp. 4-5 (top); Karen arden, sweet basil varieties. reduces leaf production. Since the leaves are what There are very few products to combat this disease, you’re most interested in, removing buds is critical. Har- which increases the impor- vest individual stems of basil by counting two to three hicago Botanic G tance of cultural management leaf nodes down the stem and pinching the center stalk techniques. There may be some

right above a set of leaves. This encourages the plant to arlson/ C

resistance to downy mildew in some C varieties: ‘Red Leaf’, ‘Red Rubin’, Thai regrow, which basil does quickly. Using a pair of snips obin basil, ‘Lemon’, ‘Lime’, and ‘Cinnamon’. allows for easy harvesting; basils are a true cut-and- Once infected, the plants should be removed and thrown away. Try to source your seeds come-again herb. Stand stems at room temperature in a from a reliable nursery close to home. Buying glass of water until you’re ready to use them.

local transplants helps shut down the disease There’s no reason to shy away from basil once you’re anielle Sherry; R cycle because the pathogen can be passed by familiar with the ins and outs of this interesting crop. In importing plants and seeds from the South, where winters aren’t cold enough to kill it. fact, after mastering its quirks, you might find you have more basil than you ever dreamed possible.

Lisa Hilgenberg is the horticulturist for the Regenstein Fruit & Veg- etable Garden at the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe, Illinois. Photos, except where noted: D Photos, except where

8 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 9 RECIPES FRESH TOMATO & BASIL SAUCE by Domenica Marchetti

SERVES FOUR TO FIVE.

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil occasionally and adjusting the heat to maintain a lively 3 large cloves garlic, sliced as thinly as possible but not-too-vigorous simmer, until the tomatoes have been reduced to a thick, pulpy sauce, 15 to 20 minutes. MARINATED TOMATOES 2 lb. cherry tomatoes, rinsed and halved 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste Remove from the heat. Sprinkle on the basil, and stir to WITH BASIL combine thoroughly. Freshly ground black pepper by Ellen Ogden Suggested pasta: 1 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves (from 1 lb. dried farfalle SERVES FIVE. about 1 small bunch), very thinly sliced Beyond pasta: 4 large ripe tomatoes In a 10- or 11-inch sauté pan, heat the oil and garlic Spoon over grilled shrimp, scallops, or whitefish; ¼ cup basil leaves, torn over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the spread on thick slices of grilled bread. into small pieces garlic is softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add Cheese option: 3 Tbs. olive oil the tomatoes, salt, and pepper to taste. Toss gently to 5 oz. ricotta salata, cut into ¼-inch dice (to yield 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice coat and then raise the heat to medium. Simmer, stirring about 1 cup) 1 tsp. sugar Salt Freshly ground pepper

Slice the tomatoes ½ inch thick. Arrange them on a platter in a single layer. Sprinkle the basil over the tomatoes. In a small bowl, mix together the remaining ingredients. Pour over the tomatoes, and let the dish stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.

BASIL PESTO by Tony Rosenfeld

2 YIELDS ABOUT ⁄3 CUP.

4 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves (from about 1 large bunch)

1 ⁄3 cup toasted pine nuts ¼ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 small clove garlic Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 Put the basil, pine nuts, parsley, garlic, ½ tsp. salt, and ⁄8 tsp. pepper in a food processor. With the machine on, slowly pour the olive oil into the feed tube and process, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl as needed, until the mixture is very finely chopped and pasty. Season to taste with salt, if you like.

10 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 11 shishitos, which are great for tempura. ‘Corno di Toro’ Heat helps peppers types, perhaps the most delicious of all sweet peppers, germinate. Use a seedling heat mat to are suitable for salads, roasting, or sautéing. keep the soil at around Although peppers have a reputation for being tricky to 80°F until the seeds grow, their cultural requirements are straightforward and sprout. similar to those of tomatoes. If you’re ready for pepper success, read on.

Wake seeds up with warm soil Peppers should be started indoors; their seeds are small and need sufficient heat to germinate. Pepper seeds germinate and grow slowly, so plan on starting them at least eight weeks before the weather is settled and the danger of frost has passed in your area. Sow seeds around ¼ inch apart and ¼ inch deep in shallow flats of seed-starting mix. Keep the mix moist but not wet. Peppers germinate best in warm soil, so use a seedling heat mat to keep the soil temperature between 80°F and 90°F until the seeds sprout. Once your seedlings are up and growing, the temperature can be dropped to 70°F. Starting peppers close together in shallow flats makes efficient use of precious heat-mat space, but once your peppers get their first true leaves, they’ll need more room to grow. Transplanting to 4-inch pots or 50-cell flats will allow enough room for healthy roots to develop. A compost-based starting mix should provide enough fertil- Peppers grow best in warm, stable weather. Wait for all danger of ity to last four to six weeks. If using a medium with no frost to pass before setting your plants out in the garden. Drip irrigation is a great way to provide the consistently moist soil that pepper plants need. compost, plan on fertilizing after the first week. Use an organic fish-based fertilizer with moderate nitrogen levels Stake it to prevent plants from being overfertilized, or “burned.” up, baby! If a plant lies Give plants a gentle landing in the garden down on the Watch the weather when it’s time to start hardening job, tie it up promptly to off your seedlings. Before transplanting, make sure that help prevent Easy-to-grow sunscald there’s absolutely no chance of frost and that nighttime temperatures are reasonably warm and stable. Bring flats and fruit decay. outside during the day and back inside at night for at least the first few days. After three to four days, you can sweet peppers leave the plants out overnight as long as the temperature is not expected to fall below 40°F. Follow an expert’s rowing sweet peppers at home is easy, fun, and reward- Ideally, the plants will have a few unopened buds when tips for a colorful ing. Besides the ever-popular bell peppers that ripen you set them out. If there are open flowers or small and bountiful crop G from green to red, there are bells of different sizes and fruits, remove them before transplanting. The goal is for colors and many specialty types to choose from. If you already the plants to use their energy to grow big and produce enjoy growing bell peppers, consider making room in your gar- a good crop. Seedlings transplanted with fruits may put BY STEVE BELLAVIA den for a specialty variety next season. For example, you could too much energy into the early fruits at the expense of try the sweet little snack peppers that kids love or Japanese overall yield.

FINEGARDENING.COM 13 VARIETIES ▾ Sunscald occurs susceptible to rot. Fruits on lodged plants also will be when fruit is exposed to the sun, increasing the likelihood of sun- abruptly exposed scald. If a plant falls down, stake it as soon as possible Pick the perfect pepper to too much sun. Sweet peppers come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. Here are a few favorites, chosen for their Encourage healthy and it should be fine. exceptional flavor, productivity, and disease resistance. leaf growth and Do not let your pepper plants go too long without stake your plants to help avoid this water, especially while fruits are developing. During 1. ‘Ace’ are great raw in salads, roasted, or sautéed. Both problem. dry periods, irrigate weekly to keep soil moisture levels Days to maturity: 50 days green, 70 days red ‘Carmen’ and ‘Escamillo’ are All-America Selec- tions winners. relatively constant. Drip irrigation is an efficient way to ‘Ace’ deserves special attention; this stalwart has 6. supply water, and it keeps leaves dry, reducing the like- been producing good crops of extra-early red bells lihood of foliar disease. for home gardeners for more than three decades. 7. ‘Cornito Rosso’ and ‘Cornito Giallo’ The small fruits are not as blocky as main-season Days to maturity: 55 to 60 days green, 75 to bells, but ‘Ace’ is a very reliable producer, espe- Blossom end rot 80 days red cially in cool climates where peppers are harder indicates a defi- Put pests and diseases in their place to grow. These “half-size” ‘Corno di Toro’–type peppers are ciency. Your soil The diseases and pests that affect pepper plants vary scaled-down versions of the traditional bull’s horn may be short on from region to region. Consult your local cooperative pepper. The fruits average 5 inches long, are early calcium, or incon- maturing, sweet, and flavorful. Enjoy them raw or sistent soil moisture extension agent for specific information about pests in 2. ‘Olympus’ cooked. ‘Cornito Giallo’ is an All-America Selec- could be to blame. your area. Days to maturity: 65 days green, 85 days red tions winner. Cutworms can be controlled by placing paper collars ‘Olympus’ produces large green to red main- around the seedlings or with products containing Bt season bells like those seen at the supermarket. It 9. performs well in most parts of the country except ® 8. ‘Mellow Star’ (Bacillus thuringiensis), such as Dipel . The European the far north and has resistance to three types of Days to maturity: 60 days green, 80 days red corn borer and the corn earworm, which sometimes bacterial leaf spot. bore into fruits, can also be controlled with Bt. Aphids, Traditional Japanese shishito peppers are gain- ing popularity in the United States with high-end tarnished plant bugs, and flea beetles can be controlled 3. ‘Flavorburst’ chefs and home cooks alike. ‘Mellow Star’ is a ® with pyrethrum-based products such as Pyganic . Days to maturity: 67 days green, 87 days ripe yellow fine example, with thin-walled fruits suitable for Bacterial leaf spot (BLS) can be a problem in regions tempura or sautéing. In Japan, shishitos are almost The fruits of ‘Flavorburst’ are slightly elongated, always cooked green, but thinly sliced red fruits are with high humidity. Infected leaves have small brown ripening from lime green to a beautiful golden yel- perfect for adding color and a little sweetness to spots that enlarge to ¼ inch and sometimes merge low. These peppers have a wonderful, sweet flavor salads and coleslaws. that is superior to that of most bells. together to form larger lesions. Lesions on fruits are raised and corky. In severe cases, the pepper plants Once the danger of frost has passed, transplant your 9. ‘Goddess’ defoliate, which causes the loss of the entire crop. Con- 4. ‘Lunchbox’ 3. peppers 12 to 18 inches apart in rows 24 to 36 inches Days to maturity: 63 days yellow, 83 days red trol by practicing crop rotation, using drip irrigation, Days to maturity: 55 to 63 days green, 75 to apart. Immediately water the seedlings with a high- 83 days ripe For pickled peppers, especially rings, the best and purchasing seeds from reputable seed companies, choice is ‘Sweet Banana’–type peppers. ‘Goddess’ phosphorous, organically approved, fish-based fertilizer ‘Lunchbox’ snack peppers are available in yellow, as BLS can be seedborne. is a very early-maturing variety that is high-yielding, solution to reduce transplant shock and get them off orange, and red, or in a seed mix that includes all tolerant of cool weather, and widely adapted. Blossom end rot is caused by an inadequate uptake of three colors. Packed with flavor, these snack-size to a good start. I like Neptune’s Harvest, which has an Banana peppers are typically pickled yellow but calcium when the fruits are actively growing. Prevent treats are excellent both raw or lightly cooked. NPK ratio of 2-4-1. may also be used red. These very mild-tasting this by providing adequate calcium in the soil; get a soil Fruits range from 2 to 3 inches long, produced peppers taste great pickled but have very little Since peppers are a heat-loving crop, growers in cool abundantly by large, upright plants. test to confirm that there is a deficiency, and amend sweetness when raw. climates often plant through agricultural plastic and the soil accordingly. Regular irrigation can also help, as cover the plants with floating row covers supported fluctuating moisture levels increase the likelihood of 5. ‘Glow’, ‘Aura’, and ‘Lipstick’ 10. ‘Biscayne’ by wire hoops. The wire hoops are important; pepper Days to maturity: 53 to 55 days green, 73 to blossom end rot. Days to maturity: 60 days pale green, 80 days red flowers grow on the outer edges of the plants, and if 75 days ripe ‘Biscayne’ is a ‘Cubanelle’ pepper, a sweet pep- hoops are not used, the flowers can be damaged by the Similar in shape to snack peppers but with bigger Harvest peppers green or ripe per commonly used in the cuisines of Cuba, the row cover on windy days. Plastic mulch and row covers fruits and thicker walls, this trio of pimiento pep- Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico, where they Now for the fun part. Any type of pepper can be har- pers offers early maturity, wide adaptability, and 8. ollins. Photos 3, 8, and 9, facing page: courtesy of Johnny’s Selected Seeds. 3, 8, and 9, facing page: courtesy of Johnny’s ollins. Photos are usually eaten fried or stuffed. Widely adapted

result in faster growth and earlier crops. Remove the C vested unripe—usually green, but sometimes other good tolerance to cool weather. Fruits average 4 to ‘Biscayne’ yields well even in relatively cool condi-

row covers when daytime temperatures reach 85°F to arol 5 inches long. Each of these varieties has a slightly colors. Ripe peppers will be sweeter and have a higher tions, producing big, 6-inch-long fruits. prevent blossom drop. different flavor, but all are excellent. vitamin C content than unripe peppers. Harvesting Fertile, well-irrigated soils are best for peppers, but peppers will encourage the plants to set more fruits. excessive nitrogen can cause plants to produce lots of 6. ‘Carmen’ and ‘Escamillo’ Enjoy your harvest by eating them out of hand, slicing leafy growth and very few fruits. While it is not always Days to maturity: 60 days green, 80 days ripe ▸ S OURCES them into salads, or using them in your favorite recipes. Fedco Seeds, Waterville, ME; 207-426-9900; fedcoseeds.com necessary to stake peppers, be aware that unstaked These exceptional ‘Corno di Toro’–type peppers Johnny’s Selected Seeds, Winslow, ME; 877-564-6697; plants may lodge (lie on the ground), putting fruits really shine where it counts: flavor and fruit quality. johnnyseeds.com

Photos, except where noted: C Photos, except where The long, pointed fruits are sweet and thick-walled, in contact with soil or mulch, where they are more Steve Bellavia is a vegetable researcher at Johnny’s Selected Seeds Territorial Seed Company, Cottage Grove, OR; 800-626-0866; with better flavor than the best of the bells. They territorialseed.com in Winslow, Maine.

14 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 15 RECIPES

CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH BELL PEPPER RAGOUT by Allison Ehri Kreitler

1 SERVES FOUR. ¼ tsp. piment d’Espelette or ⁄8 tsp. cayenne Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler ele- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ment, and heat the broiler on high. 1¼ lb. ripe plum tomatoes (6 to 8), cored, Line a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet with halved lengthwise, and seeded 1 medium clove garlic, mashed to a paste with ½ tsp. kosher salt foil. Put the tomatoes cut side up on one side 1 medium red or orange bell pepper, seeded and the peppers and onions on the other side. and cut into ¾-inch-long pieces ¾ cup all-purpose flour Drizzle everything with 3 Tbs. of the olive oil, and 1 medium yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut 1½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken breast sprinkle with the piment d’Espelette, 1 tsp. salt, halves, sliced into cutlets into ¾-inch-long pieces and ¼ tsp. pepper. Toss the peppers and onions. 2 Tbs. nonpareil (small) capers, rinsed and 1 small yellow onion, cut into medium dice Broil until the tomatoes are collapsed, about patted dry ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 7 minutes. Flip the tomatoes, toss the peppers and onions, and broil until the tomato skins have large black spots and the peppers and onions are tender, about 5 minutes more. Use tongs to pull the skins off the tomatoes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to a cutting board. Put the peppers and onions in a large bowl; add the garlic paste. Chop the tomatoes, and add them to the bowl with the other vegetables. Mix well, season to taste with salt and pepper, and keep warm. Heat ¼ cup of the olive oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Put the flour in a shallow pan. Season the chicken with 1½ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper; dredge in the flour. Working in two batches, cook the chicken, flipping once, until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to serving plates. Wipe out the pan. Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, and fry the capers over medium-high heat until they pop open and become crisp, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle them over the CHARRED PEPPERS WITH GARLIC & SHERRY VINEGAR chicken. Serve with the ragout. by Tasha DeSerio

SERVES SIX.

6 medium red bell peppers ual heat will finish cooking them. Or if the peppers 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil are tender, let them cool at room temperature. Kosher salt When the peppers are cool enough to handle, 4 medium cloves garlic, very thinly sliced (about skin, core, and seed them. Cut or tear the peppers 1 Tbs.) into strips about ½ inch wide, and put them in a medium-size bowl. Season with ½ tsp. salt. 3 Tbs. sherry vinegar Put the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the garlic in Freshly ground black pepper a small skillet, and cook over medium heat until Prepare a medium-hot gas-grill or charcoal- the garlic begins to sizzle and turn golden brown, grill fire. Rub the peppers with 1 Tbs. of the oil, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, set them on the grill, and char on all sides, 8 to and carefully add the vinegar. Pour the garlic mix- 12 minutes. If the peppers still feel a bit firm, put ture over the peppers, and let cool at room tem- them in a bowl and cover with plastic—the resid- perature. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

16 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 17 CHERRY TOMATOES The right variety and care will give you larger

harvests and better flavor than the big boys BY GLENN DROWNS

rowing more than 800 tomatoes each year gives me lots of chances to evaluate the good G and bad among varieties. Although my collection includes all different shapes, sizes, and colors, I am particularly fond of cherry tomatoes. My affec- tion for them comes from my struggles as a young gardener when, despite my many attempts, I failed to get any ripe tomatoes—except for a few cherry types. Our season in the mountain valley of Idaho was really short, but despite this challenge, the cherry tomatoes usually provided a few tasty treats just as the first frost appeared. My early success with cherry tomatoes left a lasting impression, and all these years later, I still make sure to leave space in the garden for them. Growing cherry tomatoes is not much different than growing big tomatoes. It is simply a matter of choosing the right variety for your soil, climate, and taste buds. Many people frown at the small size of cherry tomatoes, saying that they are more trouble than they are worth. But I relish cherry tomatoes for their robust and varied flavors, and I’m always impressed by their ability to hold their good taste well past the end of the season. When the foliage on their large counterparts starts to fail, the fruit might look great but the flavor becomes bland. The small cherry tomatoes, though, still delight the taste buds even as the plants die off. With the right care and varietal choice, you too can enjoy great tomatoes all season long. They just might come in a smaller package than you expected.

Cherry tomatoes have more variety than you might think. Some interesting types include (from the top, left to right) ‘Galinas’, ‘Amish Salad’, ‘Snow White Cherry’, ‘Hawaiian’, ‘Riesentraube’, and ‘Camp Joy’.

18 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 19 PLANT PICKS ▾ Top varieties for taste, vigor, and yield Each year, I like to take a sample basket of a dozen or so varieties of cherry tomatoes to the school where I teach. I let my coworkers sample and evaluate the fruit to determine the best-tasting one. It never ceases to amaze me the ratings one tomato variety can receive. A single kind can get anything from a 1 (for “fantastic”) to a 5 (for “dud”). Everyone seems to have a different idea of what the perfect tomato is. Here are the top vote getters over the years, which, fortunately, are some of my favorite cherry tomatoes, as well.

1. ‘Amish Salad’ – A vigorous grower, this tall 3 indeterminate plant produces an abundance of oval-shaped, pink-skinned fruit. The fruit main- tains a high eating quality for a long period of time on the vine.

2. ‘Camp Joy’ – This is a high-yielding cherry with Black plastic is a grower’s secret. This agricultural covering not only warms the soil for better growth in spring but also bright red fruit. You can expect excellent flavor keeps disease and weeds at bay. and steady production. 5 3. ‘Galinas’ – Unique for its potato-leaf foliage, 1 this plant—indeterminate yet controlled in its Don’t rush to get them outside, but do give them has been amended with composted poultry manure growth habit—is a beautiful sight, with its plenty of space masses of bright lemon-yellow fruit. (which is high in nitrogen and phosphorus) several The cherry-tomato season begins in early spring when months prior. Granular synthetic fertilizers don’t work 4. ‘Green Grape’ – Fabulous if for nothing more you start your seeds. I start mine in an unheated green- than its color, the fruit of this variety obtains a as well at giving plants a needed nutrient boost. I plant house, where they might grow slowly at first (a slower- golden cast when ripe. The flavor is nothing to the seedlings in holes poked through black agricultural complain about either: a sharp, tomatoey burst growing plant at the start hardens off faster and is plastic, which works wonders for both weed and dis- with a hint of sweetness. sturdier in the garden when transplanted). Fast growth ease control (the plastic helps control the splashing generally equals weak growth. If a greenhouse is not 5. ‘Hawaiian’ – Beyond a doubt, this is my and of fungal blight spores). Organic mulches don’t limit my wife’s favorite tomato; we, along with visitors an option, start them indoors under grow lights for the weeds or splashing as well as the black plastic. to our farm, can’t stop at eating just one. This best germination. I like to wait until my seedlings are Most cherry tomatoes are indeterminate and need unique little variety, with its fine and dainty foli- about 4 inches tall before hardening them off and trans- age, can grow quite tall, and it produces a mass lots of space. To make the prettiest display and pro- 8 planting them into the garden. You shouldn’t try to get of pea-size fruit. Without question, it has the duce the greatest yield, plant them along a fence or, all of your plants outside too early in spring. Wait until sweetest, most refreshing taste of any tomato. better still, metal panels used to reinforce concrete. two weeks after your last spring frost, when the soil is 6. ‘Peacevine Cherry’ – A recent addition to my These panels are 4 feet tall and 8 feet long. I use a warmer and the cool spells are becoming fewer or no collection, this variety rapidly rose to the top of metal fence post at each end and plant three to four the favorites list with its huge yields of great- longer occur. Tomatoes planted too early will struggle plants on each panel. The plants can then be tied to tasting, average-size red cherries. The fruit is to grow in the cool soil and weather, and will succumb produced in long clusters of 16 to 20, which the panel or carefully woven through its holes as they 6 to blight later on, just when you think you are about makes for easy picking. grow. Most cherry-tomato varieties get much taller to get a big harvest. I set the transplants into soil that 4 than 4 feet, so you can let the plants droop over the 7. ‘Riesentraube’ – Production can be unrealis- tically high, with clusters of oval red toma- top or prune them back. There are also large tomato toes (with a little nipple on the end) pouring cages that work well and provide support all around in by the bucketful in summer. This variety the plant. I have even seen beautiful plants that are also boasts a strong taste. planted about 4 feet apart on 6-to-8-foot-tall stakes. 8. ‘Snow White Cherry’ – This has always The plants are tied to the stakes and pruned judi- been one of my favorites because it does almost 9 as well in a greenhouse in winter as it does ciously as they grow. This can make a fantastic-looking in the garden in summer. The fruit has a pale, 7 display for the person who has only a few plants to yellow-ivory color and a superb sweetness and care for (it’s fairly impractical for someone with many texture. Even the fruit deep in the center of the plants). This method also allows for uniform sun expo- plant’s foliage (not exposed to sunlight) is tasty. sure and more-even ripening of fruit. 9. ‘Black Cherry’ – You can expect this large All of this organized spacing and support is great in plant to produce an abundance of unique, dark- colored fruit. The flavor is excellent at the peak a perfect world, but if you are cramped for space, you of ripeness, making it one of the best cherries 2 still have options. I use simple, standard-size tomato to eat fresh. No greenhouse? No problem. Standard grow lights and cages and put a plant in each, placing the plants about a protected spot in your house will be just fine for starting cherry-tomato seeds. 18 inches apart. They rapidly grow up through the Photos: Danielle Sherry

20 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 21 cages and then turn into a mound of tomato foliage, Don’t be afraid to use cherry tomatoes in any dish eventually producing a heap of tomatoes. It is more in which you would use a larger fruited variety; some are even meaty difficult to harvest them using this support/spacing method, but the yield is still great and manageable. enough to make spectacular sauces. Care is minimal until it’s time to harvest Managing your cherry-tomato plants throughout the rest of the season is pretty simple. Pruning out the extra foliage is really not necessary and actually does some harm to the overall quality of the tomatoes. More healthy foliage means better-tasting fruit because the leaves collect the sunlight to feed the plant, which in turn enhances the sugar content of the fruit. If you have the time, you can carefully remove the bottom leaves as they turn yellow to help prevent disease and to keep the plants in good health. Fruit cracking occurs more often in some cherry- tomato varieties than in others; in some, I rarely if ever see it except late in the season when temperatures at night fall below 40°F or so. I also see cracking during a dry year when there is a cold rain or when I am irri- gating with cold well water during the heat of the day (when it is above 80°F). If you have problems with cracking, look for varieties that have a thicker skin. ‘Green Grape’ and ‘Amish Salad’ resist cracking more than most options. Cracking isn’t the end of the world. Fluctuations in temperature and moisture typically cause this The best thing about cherry tomatoes is the yield. In malady. In time, the problem usually corrects itself. many climates, you can anticipate a bountiful harvest until the first frost and even a few days after. Because the foliage is usually so dense, tomatoes hiding underneath the leaves miss the first few freezes. For most varieties, it is better to harvest a bit prior to full ripeness to obtain the best flavor. Once tomatoes get soft, the flavor declines and is not as sharp and distinct as that of tomatoes picked sooner. When a cherry tomato drops off the plant, it’s past its prime for eating; it will be lacking in taste, and the texture will be mealy. Ideally, you should have a daily picking schedule to get to the fruit at peak quality. The flavor of cherry tomatoes is just as good as, if not better than, the flavor of big tomatoes. Don’t be afraid to use cherry tomatoes in any dish in which you would use a larger fruited variety; some are even meaty enough to make spectacular sauces. The possibilities are endless when it comes to making use of your harvest, especially because cherry tomatoes provide a yield that just keeps coming and coming.

Metal panels are the sturdiest support option. Cages are like jeans—one size does not fit all. Glenn Drowns and his wife, Linda, own Sand Hill Preservation There’s a fine line between underripe and overripe. When in Tomato stems are somewhat pliable and can be carefully For indeterminate tomato plants, like these cherry variet- Center, a genetic-preservationist farm-and-seed company in doubt, pick the fruit when it’s a bit underripe because it will ripen woven in and out of the openings. You can also use spe- ies, you’ll need a big cage to get good results. to perfection when off the vine. When the fruit falls off the plant, it’s cial clips or loose ties to train the plants upward. Calamus, Iowa. overripe—with a mushy texture and spoiled flavor.

22 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 23 RECIPES

GREEN BEAN SALAD WITH CORN, CHERRY TOMATOES & BASIL Recipe by Tasha DeSerio

SERVES SIX TO EIGHT. CHERRY TOMATOES STUFFED WITH MOZZARELLA & BASIL

3 cups fresh corn kernels Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add the corn ker- Recipe by Jessica Bard (3 to 4 ears) nels, and blanch for 1 minute. Scoop out the corn with a YIELDS ABOUT 3 DOZEN HORS D’OEUVRES; SERVES TEN TO TWELVE AS AN APPETIZER. Kosher salt strainer; set aside. Season the water with a generous amount ½ lb. fresh mozzarella, cut into tiny dice In a medium bowl, stir the cheese, oil, basil, zest, ½ 1 lb. fresh green beans, trimmed and cut of salt, let it return to a boil, add the beans, and cook until (to yield about 1¼ cup) tsp. kosher salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Refrigerate for at least in half diagonally just tender, about 3 minutes. Drain the beans, and spread 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 hours and up to 4 hours before assembling. 1 small red onion, cut in half through the them on a baking sheet to cool. 1⁄3 cup coarsely chopped fresh When ready to assemble, slice each tomato in half root end, root trimmed, and cut length- Meanwhile, put the onion in a small bowl filled with ice basil leaves (either direction is all right) and scoop out the insides with wise into very thin slices water, which will crisp it and mellow its flavor. Using a mortar and pestle or the flat side of a chef’s knife, mash the garlic to ½ tsp. freshly grated lemon zest the small end of a melon baller or a teaspoon. Sprinkle 1 garlic clove a paste with a pinch of salt. Put the paste in a small bowl (or (from about a quarter of a lemon) lightly with salt. Invert onto a paper towel, and let the ¼ cup red-wine vinegar; more to taste keep it in the mortar), and whisk in the vinegar. Let sit for 5 to Kosher salt tomatoes drain for 15 minutes. 1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil Fill each tomato half with a scant teaspoon of the 10 minutes, then whisk in the olive oil. Freshly ground black pepper 1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half cheese mixture, and arrange on a serving tray. Serve imme- Just before serving, drain the onions. Put the beans, 1 pint (about 18) cherry tomatoes, 1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil diately as an hors d’oeuvre, or wrap and refrigerate for up corn, onions, cherry tomatoes, and basil in a large bowl. rinsed and stems removed Freshly ground black pepper Season with salt and pepper, and toss with the vinaigrette. to 2 hours. Taste again, and add more salt, pepper, or vinegar if needed. Serve right away.

24 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 25 Florida weave Which

tomato stakes Tripod are right for you? Learn the pros and cons of six different types

BY JOE QUEIROLO

ometimes I think there must be tomato help prevent disease, and makes it easier to see and sauce flowing through my veins. My earliest harvest the fruit. I can also fit more plants into a memories are of watching my parents water smaller area by trellising them. During my many S summers of tomato fixation, I’ve observed and tried the tomato vines in the backyard and of my Italian grandfather, who boasted about the big, heavy, deli- many types of tomato supports and have found cious tomatoes he had grown in rocky soil enriched several tried-and-true structures that are readily with countless wheelbarrows full of horse manure. available, dependable, and sure to keep the garden As a kid, I even spent summers at my aunt and looking attractive and orderly. uncle’s ranch, where they grew nearly a hundred acres of pro cessing tomatoes. Tomato cages are easy to find These days, tomatoes are still a large part of my Tomato cages, structures that entirely encircle a life, and summer would simply not be summer plant, are the easiest supports to use. There are sev- without them. To keep my tomato plants happy and eral variations of cages available, but if you’re going productive, I give them the necessities of life: food, to be growing just a few plants, the easiest cage to water, and light. But for the greatest yields, they also find is the ubiquitous, inexpensive, cone-shaped, require some means of support or trellising. Lifting heavy-gauge wire tomato basket. Each cage costs and supporting the plants keeps the fruit clean and just a couple of dollars, and in spring, I see them away from pests, provides better air circulation to for sale everywhere, from nurseries to drug stores.

Cage

26 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 27 You simply push the legs into the soil around a young plant, then let nature take its course. As the Choose your staking weapon wisely plant grows and fills the basket, tuck wayward stems behind the encircling wire. But be careful: These 3-foot-tall cones are not particularly stable. Indeter- minate tomato vines can quickly grow beyond the top ring of the basket and topple the whole plant. STAKES It is best to use determinate tomato varieties with A tomato plant can these cages or be prepared to brace them with stakes be trained on a single wooden stake, when the vines get larger. or several stakes can To support indeterminate varieties, I prefer to be made into a make my own cages out of 5-foot-tall concrete- tuteur or tripod. SPIRALS These 5-to- reinforcing mesh that I buy at a home-supply APPROXIMATE 6-foot-tall metal store. Make sure the mesh is large enough to get COST: $1 to $3 each stakes resemble your hand through while clutching a ripe tomato; corkscrews. a 6-inch-square mesh works for me and is readily APPROXIMATE available in stores. To make the cage, cut a 4½-to HOMEMADE CAGES COST: $6 each Wire-mesh fencing 6-foot-long piece, roll it together so that the ends with large holes can be meet, then secure the ends with wire to make a cyl- used to fashion your inder with a diameter of 1½ to 2 feet. If you garden own cages. in a windy area, consider anchoring the cage to the APPROXIMATE COST: ground with ground staples or stakes. 33¢ per foot One drawback to using tomato cages is that they take up a lot of storage space in the off-season. With my homemade version, I can untie, unroll, and stack the wire, but that is somewhat inconvenient. If your storage space is limited, you might want to consider using circular or rectangular collapsible tomato cages, which fold for easy storage.

Stakes allow for easy pruning If you’re looking for earlier and bigger tomatoes and you don’t mind the extra work of pinching and tying up indeterminate varieties, you can stake them. Just drive a 6-foot-long redwood or cedar 2x2, a length of sturdy bamboo, or a metal T-post about a foot into the ground, and plant your tomato about 6 inches away from the stake. As the vine grows, train it to a single stem by gently breaking off any side shoots that emerge from the main stem. Tie the stem loosely to the stake with strips of soft cloth or nylon. Loop the material entirely around the stake before tying it around the stem. This will cinch the tie and hold it in place as the plant gets COLLAPSIBLE CAGES These work the same heavier. If the ties start slipping down the stake as STANDARD TOMATO way standard cages do your tomatoes grow, you can notch the stake or CAGES LADDERS but collapse for easier drive a small nail in the stake to hold the ties up. These tornado-shaped off-season storage. These sturdy, plastic- A tomato spiral, an elegant alternative to a rustic- cages are the easiest coated metal supports supports to find. APPROXIMATE COST: looking stake, is a 5-foot-tall metal corkscrew-like are similar to cages but $10 each APPROXIMATE COST: have one open side. device that you wind your plant around as it grows. $1 to $3 each APPROXIMATE COST: You may not need to tie the plant up, but you will $60 for a set of five still want to pinch out any side shoots. Another

FINEGARDENING.COM 29 attractive type of stake is the tomato ladder, a half cage that looks like a small ladder with V-shaped BASICS rungs. Plants grown on these ladders don’t need to ▾ Pick a tie be pinched into a single stem; as the plant grows, Many different products just tie the side shoots to the rungs. can be used to attach You can also build or buy a tripod or tuteur to Options for trellising tomato vines to their provide upscale housing for your plants. Either you your tomatoes supports. It’s best to can place a single plant in the middle of the tripod The type of support structure you choose depends on the experiment with a few and train it to three or four main stems by keeping growth habit of your tomato plants and how much space kinds to test their indi- you have. vidual strengths and the lowest side shoots and pinching out the rest, or weaknesses. you can place a plant at the base of each leg of the tripod and train each plant to a single stem, which LADDER you would tie to that leg. As a plant grows, wind the stems through the rungs Try the florida weave if you have lots of plants of the ladder, attaching the stems with a tie if needed. PAPER-COATED Because I usually grow a couple hundred tomato Best for indeter minate TWIST TIE plants, I need to support them all quickly, easily, tomatoes. and inexpensively. To do this, I use a staking method called the Florida weave for both my determinate FLORIDA WEAVE and indeterminate varieties. I plant the tomatoes in This staking option works well when growing many tomato plants. Twine is woven around wooden stakes to support unpruned plants as they grow. Steel rows, and at the ends of each row, I drive steel T- T-posts at the ends of the row hold the temporary structure in place. A good STRETCH TIE posts into the ground at an oblique angle. Between system for either determinate or indeterminate tomatoes. the plants, I push 8-foot-tall 1x1 redwood or bamboo stakes as far into the ground as I can, then push them in even farther right after watering, when the SPIRAL PLASTIC-COATED soil is soft. As the vine STEEL WIRE As soon as the plants begin to lean over, I make grows, wind the first layer of the weave by tying untreated twine it around this around one T-post, passing it along one side of the ele gant stake, first plant, wrapping it around the stake, then past tying it up if needed. Best for the next plant, around the next stake, and so on. TWINE indeterminate When I reach the T-post at the end of the row, I tomatoes. bring the twine back along the other side of the plants, repeating the process to hem them in so that they are sandwiched between the lengths of twine; I just need to keep weaving and binding the stems with twine. I do this each time the plants grow a CAGE foot or so, which works out to about four times a When a tomato plant HOOK- season for indeterminate varieties and maybe twice grows up through the AND-LOOP for determinate ones. If the plants get too heavy cage, tuck the wayward FASTENER with fruit and the whole row threatens to fall over, I stems behind the encircling wires. Best for stretch a strong wire between the T-posts and fasten determinate tomatoes. the stakes to it. At the end of the season, I simply cut the twine, remove the stakes, and compost the remaining heap. NYLON TIE When is comes to supporting tomatoes, keeping the fruit off the ground is my main goal, and trellising helps me find my holy grail of summer gardening: a PLASTIC-COATED basketful of perfect—and perfectly ripe—tomatoes. TRIPOD TWIST TIE Use this structure to support either a plant at the Photos, except where noted: Scott Phillips. Other photos: Danielle Sherry, p. 26 and p. 27 (left and bottom right); Steve Aitken, p. 27 (top right). Illustrations: Michael Gellatly. 26 and p. 27 (left bottom right); p. Sherry, noted: Scott Phillips. Other photos: Danielle Photos, except where Joe Queirolo gardens in San Ramon, California. base of each leg (as pictured) or a single vine planted in the middle. Best for indeterminate tomatoes.

30 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 31 The lazy gardener’s guide to VARIETIES PRUNING TOMATOES ▾ Following these simple steps will have you vegging out instead of stressing out Tomatoes you may not have tried The following are some varieties that have stayed under the radar. They may be new or just underappreciated, but they all deserve a spot in your beds—regardless of how lazy a gardener you truly are.

BY DANIELLE SHERRY ▾ ‘GREEN fruitiness. 1. MID TO LATE SPRING SAUSAGE’ ‘HUNGARIAN hate pruning my toma- Type: Determinate HEART’ toes. Like a lot of folks, I Get the foliage off the ground Days to maturity: 75 Type: Indeterminate Days to maturity: 85 don’t have the time (or A week or two after transplanting, trim off all I resisted growing I the leaves or stems that touch the ground. This patience) to prune tomatoes this tomato for years because, well, Huge pink oxheart-type fruits cover should include those tricky stems that are about these plants in midsummer. In fact, the way they are supposed to it just looked so weird. The 4-to- to touch the ground. This helps keep diseases 5-inch fruit is striped green and one fruit can weigh more than a be pruned. Cutting out all the at bay that can transfer to plants from soil light yellow when ripe. Each tomato pound and has very few seeds. suckers on one indeterminate splashing onto the foliage. Keep an eye out in has a tapered end and a slightly Despite changes in moisture, this the following weeks to hack off any rogue plant tomato could literally take plumper middle, giving it the variety is known for being crack parts that start reaching for the ground as well. appearance of an Italian sausage resistant. ‘Hungarian Heart’ has hours—and forget about it if • TOMATO TYPE: Determinate and indeterminate from another planet. The taste is been voted a favorite for fresh eat- you have more than one plant. tangy, which makes it an unex- ing, canning, and roasting by Seed Like most things in life, what I pected addition to sauces. Savers Exchange members mul- BEFORE AFTER tiple times. really want to know is how little effort I can put in and still ‘GRUSHOVKA’ Type: Determinate ‘PURPLE get great results. If you’re like ▾ Days to maturity: BUMBLE BEE’ me, you’d much rather spend Type: Indeterminate 3. EARLY TO MIDSUMMER 65 BEFORE Days to maturity: 70 your precious time lounging For those outside in the hammock—or gardening in a short- A relative new kid to vegging out on the couch season area of the country, this is the tomato world, the Bumble Bee an excellent choice. Originating series of cherry tomatoes is touted watching your favorite TV in Siberia, these plants provide a for its unique, striped skin. ‘Purple ▾ show (or, in my case, baseball). plethora of meaty paste tomatoes. Bumble Bee’ is particularly meaty To give myself more free 4. MID TO LATE SUMMER Be sure to harvest the egg-shaped and produces scores of fruits from early summer up until first frost. time, I developed a plan where fruits when they get to be a dark Practice the late-season chop pink color. These plants also have some resis- I divided the tomato grow- To do this step correctly, first you need to envision tance to late blight. ing season into four critical the United States and bisect the country from west ‘POWERS HEIRLOOM’ periods when I need to prune. to east. If you live south of that line, you will do the ‘RED LIGHTNING’ chop around the Type: Indeterminate Chop on Labor Day Type: Amazingly, doing these quick Thin out the center 4th of July. If you Days to maturity: AFTER Indeterminate fixes every year has led to big- live north of that 80 to 90 Cut or pinch out (photo) a Days to maturity: 80 arstang Hill. line, you will do the ger harvests and more time to third of the center of the G The yellow color of Although these sit on the couch watching the plant’s foliage to allow bet- chop around Labor this baby indicates ▾ ter airflow and more sun to artha Day. The chop sim- a lower acidity, making it ideal for plants are indeterminate, they M Boston Red Sox. These quick- ply means hacking rarely get taller than 5 feet. This 2. LATE SPRING TO EARLY SUMMER reach and ripen fruit. For someone with a sensitive stom- and-easy steps are all you need areas in the Deep South off the tops of your ach. Heavy yields start rolling in makes harvesting the red-and- as far as tomato pruning this where sunscald might be tomato plants so around mid to late summer. These yellow mottled fruits a bit more

Cut off all the squidlike arms llustrations: an issue, you may want to I they are only 5 to Chop on 4th of July plants hold up exceptionally well manageable. ‘Red Lightning’ is a year. I wish improving my By early summer, your plants have usually hit be more judicious and 6 feet tall. This in prolonged heat, so for Southern fairly large fruiting cherry tomato, team’s record were only as their teenage growth spurt, with the plants remove only a quarter of forces the plant to spend what’s left of its energy in locales, this is a must-grow variety. with each small globe averaging tripling in size seemingly overnight. Prune off simple. the plant’s density. ripening the green fruit below the cuts, as opposed The fruit is sweet with a little bit of 3 inches in diameter. It’s perfect stems that reach far outside the cage or sup- anielle Sherry. anielle Sherry. to setting more immature fruit at the top of the plant for adding pizzazz to any salad. D port device you’ve set in place. This helps • TOMATO TYPE: Determinate (which will never ripen before the season ends). keep plants to a manageable size and the gar- and indeterminate

den from becoming an out-of-control jungle. Photos: • TOMATO TYPE: Indeterminate

• TOMATO TYPE: Mostly indeterminate or unruly determinate Danielle Sherry is a senior editor who sometimes lets the deer help her prune the tomatoes in her East Haddam, Connecticut, garden.

32 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 33 RECIPES

COOKED FRESH TOMATO SAUCE by Giuliano Hazan

YIELDS 2 TO 3 CUPS.

3 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored 5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1½ Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves) Fine sea salt

Peel the tomatoes, and coarsely chop them. Put 4 Tbs. of the olive oil, the parsley, and the garlic in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. When the garlic and parsley begin to sizzle, add the tomatoes and 1¾ tsp. salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium low. Gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down and are thick and saucy, 35 to 70 minutes, depending on how much liquid the tomatoes release. Toss with your choice of cooked pasta and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil, and serve. The sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for two to three days or frozen for up to three months. When you’re ready to use it, reheat and toss with your choice of cooked pasta and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil.

OLIVE OIL–POACHED SHRIMP WITH GINGER-TOMATO SAUCE by Molly Stevens SERVES FOUR. a medium-size (10-inch) straight- HEIRLOOM TOMATO NAPOLEON WITH PARMESAN CRISPS & HERB SALAD sided sauté pan. Heat over low For the shrimp: heat until the oil reaches 120°F, 2 by Eric Rupert 1½ lb. jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per to 3 minutes. Slide the shrimp into lb.), peeled and deveined SERVES FOUR. the oil, and immediately transfer ½ tsp. finely grated orange zest the pan to the oven. Poach until the For the Parmesan crisps: Make the Parmesan crisps: Position a rack in the center of ½ tsp. freshly grated ginger shrimp are opaque throughout (cut 2½ cups grated parmigiano reggiano the oven, and heat to 375°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes nonstick baking liner or parchment. Spread the grated cheese into one to check), about 25 min- For the vinaigrette: Kosher salt over the entire surface of the liner. Bake until the cheese is utes. With a slotted spoon, transfer 1 small shallot, minced (about 1½ Tbs.) 4 to 6 cups extra-virgin olive oil to a wire rack, and blot on both amber brown, about 18 minutes. Remove from the oven, and 4 tsp. Champagne vinegar sides with paper towels to remove cool. Break into irregular pieces (each about 3 inches across). For the sauce: 1 tsp. Dijon mustard excess oil. You’ll need 12 pieces for the napoleons, but this batch makes 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher or sea salt To make the sauce, heat the extra to cover the inevitable breaking (and snacking). 1 small yellow onion, finely oil in a medium-size skillet over Freshly ground black pepper Make the vinaigrette: Put the shallot, vinegar, mustard, and chopped (about ¾ cup) medium-high heat. Add the onion 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil a pinch each of salt and pepper in a small bowl or dressing Kosher salt and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring 2 Tbs. grapeseed oil or canola oil cruet. Allow the shallots to sit in the vine gar for at least 20 min- 2 medium cloves garlic, minced frequently, until soft and translu- utes and up to 1 hour. Whisk or shake in both oils. Season to For the salad: 1 Tbs. freshly grated ginger cent, about 4 minutes. Add the taste with more salt and pepper. 1 cup baby arugula leaves ½ tsp. finely grated orange zest garlic, ginger, and orange zest, To serve: In a large bowl, mix the arugula, parsley, basil, tar- 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 pint canned tomatoes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, ragon, chives, and nasturtium leaves (if using). Lightly dress with 1 cup fresh basil leaves, torn into some of the vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 1 Tbs. fresh orange juice 1 minute more. Add the tomatoes bite-size pieces if large Divide the salad evenly among four salad plates. Arrange a ½ tsp. granulated sugar and their juices, orange juice, and sugar, and simmer for 5 minutes to ½ cup fresh tarragon leaves large tomato slice on each salad, sprinkle lightly with salt, and To poach the shrimp, toss the meld the flavors. Purée the sauce ½ cup 1-inch fresh chive pieces top with a piece of Parmesan crisp. Continue to alternate the shrimp in a mixing bowl with the in a food processor. Return to the 20 small nasturtium leaves (optional) lightly salted tomatoes and cheese pieces until you have used orange zest, ginger, red pepper pan, season to taste with salt, and Kosher or sea salt three pieces of the Parmesan crisp in each napoleon. Finish flakes, and ¾ tsp. salt. Let sit at keep warm over low heat until the Freshly ground black pepper off the top of each napoleon with an unsalted tomato slice. room temperature for about an Arrange the cherry tomatoes around the napoleons, and drizzle shrimp are ready. Distribute the Sixteen 1⁄3-inch-thick heirloom tomato slices, preferably of hour. Position a rack in the center any remaining vinaigrette around the plates. Sprinkle with salt tomato sauce among four serving different colors, sizes, and shapes (2 to 3 lb.) of the oven, and heat the oven and pepper. Serve immediately. plates, arrange the shrimp on top of About 20 various heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved to 225°F. Pour 1 inch of oil into the sauce, and serve. or quartered

FINEGARDENING.COM 35 Potatoes in a TOWER? This unique method allows you to grow 20 pounds of spuds in an area less than 4 square feet

BY DANIELLE SHERRY

otatoes are versatile, delicious, and rich in garden without warning; in addition, they’re a favor- vitamins. And if you’re able to grow them suc- ite delicacy of voles. You’ll need a little cessfully, the harvest can keep for the entire For those seeking to grow their own spuds in a small straw and a long P reach. After building winter (something not even tasty tomatoes can do). space or in a vole-prone area, or for those wanting to what looks like a mini Despite these positive traits, potatoes have always keep their crop somewhat contained in case disease silo out of fencing, scared me. Not because they have creepy-looking strikes, a potato tower is an excellent solution. Rang- use a layering method “eyes” or because my grandma used to say they were ing from 2 to 4 feet tall, this simple vertical column is to fill the columns with straw, compost, poisonous if you ate them raw. Potatoes frighten me comprised of wire fencing lined with straw and filled and seed potatoes. because they can be needy when it comes to their with compost, saving you from having to till deeply growing conditions, they take up a lot of room, and and to amend your bed excessively. Simple to build, they can introduce a plethora of diseases into your it also produces a high yield. Here’s how it’s done.

36 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 37 WHAT • Wire cutters • Straw YOU WILL • 3-to-4-foot-tall 14-gauge wire fencing • Shovel NEED (or one with a sufficient gauge to retain • Compost its form and be used for a few years) • Seed potatoes (use a mix of varieties • Rebar wire for an attractive effect), 5 pounds • One piece of 5-foot-tall rebar for each tower

Step 2 Build a straw “nest.” In midspring, lay down a 2-to-3-inch-deep layer of straw in the bottom of the bin, creating a “bird’s nest” inside it. The straw supports itself up the container’s sides as you spread it, leav- ing a large central area for the compost. The straw helps keep the compost in

and reduces water loss due Compost to evaporation. Shovel in on the inside some compost. The goal is to have the first layer of seed potatoes about 1 foot Straw on above the ground, which the outside will allow plenty of room for the bottom layer of potatoes to form. Step 4

Continue building the tower. Step 5 Step 3 Create additional layers comprised of a straw nest, compost, and potatoes until you reach 4 inches from Watch it grow, tip it over, and harvest the spuds. Step 1 Add a layer of the top of the bin. Each layer should be about a foot Keep the tower well watered throughout the season (this is deep. Finish off the tower with a layer of potatoes critical for good spud formation). When the plants have sig- potatoes, and water Create a sturdy frame. spaced evenly across the top. Pour a 5-inch-deep layer nificantly died back in late summer, tip the tower over and sift Use wire cutters to snip out a section of wire fencing to thoroughly. of compost over the potatoes, and cover with a few through the compost to find the spuds. If you had no incidence create a cylindrical bin, about 1½ to 2 feet in diam eter. Place the potatoes about handfuls of straw. These uppermost potatoes will sprout of disease, you can use the leftover straw and compost to I prefer to use fencing that is 4 feet tall because I can still every 5 to 6 inches along out of the top of the bin. amend vegetable or ornamental beds. reach into the tower to plant it even though I’m only the outside edge of the 5 feet 3 inches tall. Use rebar wire to tie the fence ends tower, add a thin layer of together (photo above). compost, and water them in; they should be next To give the bin some extra tip stability, attach it to a rebar to the straw, with their Don’t ever use grocery-store spuds post. Pound the post flush with eyes pointed out. Potatoes If you’ve ever forgotten that you had some potatoes in your pantry, you’re familiar with how eas- the back of the inside of the need only one or two eyes ily this produce item will sprout. Fight the temptation to plant these happy acci dents in your garden. Potatoes can serve as ideal hosts for several nasty diseases, including late blight (which bin, and wire the bin to the per piece to grow, so feel caused the 19th-century Irish Potato Famine). Once introduced into your beds, these diseases post (photo right). If you have free to cut up large seed potatoes into two or more can wreak havoc. Instead, buy and plant certified disease-free seed potatoes from a reputable trouble with voles, add a piece source. Three of my favorite hearty varieties are ‘Katahdin’, a waxy white spud; ‘Red Norland’, chunks, making sure each of fencing with small holes at a great option for long storage; and ‘All Blue’, with its otherworldly color. the bottom of the container to piece is at least as big as a golf ball. The smaller potatoes can simply prevent the critters from bur- be planted whole. Aim for cutting the potatoes 24 hours prior to rowing into it. planting, which will allow time for a scab to grow over the cut, Collins. Carol photo, facing page: Brittany Carlson. Illustration: Bottom noted: Danielle Sherry. Photos, except where reducing disease and rot issues. Danielle Sherry, a senior editor at Fine Gardening, grows vegetables—no thanks to herds of deer and slugs—in East Haddam, Connecticut.

38 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 39 RECIPES

CHICKEN WITH POTATOES, PEAS & COCONUT-CURRY SAUCE CRISPY SMASHED ROASTED POTATOES by Jennifer Armentrout by Susie Middleton

SERVES TWO TO THREE. chicken, and cook, flipping once, until lightly SERVES FOUR. browned and just barely cooked through, 1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breast 12 to 15 baby red or yellow potatoes (about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken halves (about 3) 1½ oz. each; 1½ to 2 inches in diameter) to a plate. Repeat with the remaining Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 2¾ tsp. kosher salt chicken. Cover with foil to keep warm. 2 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed Return the pan to medium heat, and ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ½ medium onion, finely diced (to yield if it looks dry, add another 1 Tbs. oil. Add To cook the potatoes, put the potatoes in a large sauce- about ½ cup) the onion, ginger, and jalapeño, and sauté, pan (preferably in one layer) and cover with at least 1 inch 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger stirring almost constantly with a wooden of water. Add 2 tsp. kosher salt to the water. Bring the 2 tsp. seeded, minced fresh jalapeño spoon, until the vegetables soften, about water to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer, and 1 Tbs. sweet curry powder (not 2 minutes. Add the curry powder, and cook the potatoes until they are completely tender and can Madras or hot) sauté for 30 seconds. be easily pierced with a metal or wood skewer. Make sure 1 cup homemade or low-salt Pour in the chicken broth, and scrape they are cooked through, but don’t overcook. The total chicken broth the pan with a spoon to loosen any cooking time will be 30 to 35 minutes. 1 medium (6-oz.) red or yellow potato, browned bits. While the potatoes are cooking, set up a double layer peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice (to Add the potato and ½ tsp. salt. Bring to of clean dish towels on your countertop. As the potatoes yield about 1 cup) a simmer, and cook, partially covered, until finish cooking, remove them individually from the water, 5½ oz. can coconut milk, well shaken the potato is barely tender, 7 to 8 minutes. and let them drain and sit for 1 to 2 minutes on the Add the coconut milk and peas; simmer ½ cup frozen peas dish towels. uncovered until the peas are thawed, the 2 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh cilantro To flatten the potatoes, fold another dish towel potato is fully tender, and the sauce is into quarters, and using it as a cover, gently press down Trim the chicken, removing the tenders, somewhat thickened, 4 to 5 minutes. on one potato with the palm of your hand to flatten it to a and slice on an angle into ¾-inch pieces. Taste the sauce; add salt and pepper thickness of about ½ inch. Repeat with all the potatoes. Season generously with salt and pepper. as needed. Add the chicken along with any Don’t be concerned if some break apart a bit; you can In a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan, accumulated juices to the sauce, and turn still use them. heat the oil over medium-high heat until to coat with the sauce. Serve immediately, Cover a large rimmed baking sheet with aluminum it’s hot enough to shimmer. Add half of the sprinkled with the cilantro. foil; put a sheet of parchment on top of the foil. Transfer the flattened potatoes carefully to the baking sheet, and let them cool completely at room temperature. To roast the potatoes, heat the oven to 450°F; alternatively, if you have a convection function, turn it on and set the temperature at 400°F. Sprinkle the potatoes with about ¾ tsp. salt, and pour the olive oil over them. Lift the potatoes gently to make sure SMASHED RED POTATOES WITH BASIL & PARMESAN that some of the oil goes underneath them and that by Eva Katz they are well coated on both sides. Roast the potatoes until they’re crispy and deep brown SERVES FOUR. around the edges—about 30 minutes if using 2 lb. red potatoes, scrubbed and cut the potatoes are quite tender when tested a convection oven, 30 to 40 minutes if roasting into large chunks, 1½ to 2 inches with a fork, 15 to 20 minutes. Reserve conventionally—turning them over once gently Kosher salt some of the cooking water, then drain the with a spatula or tongs halfway through cooking. Serve hot. ¼ cup olive oil potatoes. Dump them back in the pot, and 2 cloves garlic, minced set over medium heat. Dry the potatoes by shaking the pan and stirring until most ¼ cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves of the moisture has steamed off, about ¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano- 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Reggiano Using the side of a large metal spoon, Freshly ground black pepper cut through the skins and flesh of the Put the potatoes and 1 tsp. salt in a large potatoes, reducing the chunks to a very saucepan or pot, and fill with enough cold coarse mash. Stir in the olive oil and garlic. water to cover the potatoes by about Add up to 2 Tbs. of the cooking water to 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat. loosen the mash if necessary. Stir in the Lower the heat to maintain a steady sim- basil and cheese. Season to taste with salt mer, cover the pot partially, and cook until and pepper, and serve immediately.

40 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 41 BY MELINDA BATEMAN

ne day at the farmers’ market, a customer looked at my beans and inquired whether I had grown the ones Oshe had eaten the previous night at a local restaurant. I had. She proceeded to rave about how incredible they had been. To her, they were the most memorable part of the meal. Fancy that—green beans being the best part of a delicious meal at a fine restaurant. She bought a pound of beans and went home happy. What is the allure of green beans? To me, it’s their tender,

fresh sweetness, that essential flavor condensed into one small ‘Tavera’ package—green-bean perfection. The chefs we sell to love them because these beans really add elegance to a dinner plate. And they are my favorite crop to grow. We live and farm four miles north of Taos, New Mexico, at an elevation of 7,600 feet. Our average yearly rainfall is 12 inches. We have a four-month growing season and heavy winds in May and June. How can I grow good beans in such an extreme cli- Growing your own mate? The secret of my success lies in our choice of varieties. Fertile soil and regular moisture are critical We have trialed numerous varieties and settled on growing those that are considered filet beans. This type of green bean is thinner than other beans. The varieties ‘Tavera’ and ‘Nickel’ ‘Nickel’ both bear big crops. These varieties are small seeded—and the GREEN smaller the seed, the more tender the bean. There is another type or class of green bean that has large seeds. I have trialed a number of these: ‘Vernandon’; ‘Fin des Bagnols’; ‘Triomphe de Farcy’; and ‘Emerite’, a pole-bean type BEANS that requires trellising or some kind of support. In our garden, Regular watering and frequent picking yield they produce relatively few beans, which are usually large a bountiful harvest and tough, even when picked daily. I can’t recommend them, although I have wondered occasionally if these varieties would do better in a different climate. For the home gardener, some well-cared-for soil with a light treatment of compost should provide green beans with nearly all the nutrients they need. We water all our crops with drip irrigation, which we lay right beside each row of beans. During the growing season, we run daily cycles of water. The beans ‘Triomphe de Farcy’ get 30 to 45 minutes per day, either in the evening or early morning. This keeps the soil moist but not soggy. You will need to adjust watering to suit your climate conditions. I wait for the weather to settle before planting green beans. When the soil is warm enough to plant corn (60°F), it’s also safe for beans. In cooler soils, beans germinate erratically and the plantings lack vigor. They end up bearing about the same time as later plantings. But you don’t need a soil thermometer to know when to plant; when it feels safe to set out tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers, you can plant beans too. I can usually sow a first crop by early June. It will begin to yield about 50 days later. I do a series of succession plantings, allowing 10 days

FINEGARDENING.COM 43 Inoculate bean inoculate. All you need is a clean tin can holding all the beans seed with nitrogen you plan to plant in the next half hour, a sprinkle of inoculant, powder. This enables and a splash of water to make the inoculant stick to the beans. the plant to convert nitrogen in the air Give the can a shake, and you’re ready to plant. If you don’t to a form usa ble by sow all the seeds you inoculate, let them dry out and store plants. them for another planting. I plant beans in shallow furrows cut open with the edge of a hoe. I space the seed 2 inches apart, then rake soil over the seeds, burying them under ½ inch of soil. The rows of beans are spaced 18 inches apart. The last step is to turn on the drip to two weeks between plantings. Yields vary with weather system and soak the soil thoroughly. conditions, but typically the first week of harvest is scanty, the When the beans are showing their first true leaves, I thin out second week is heavy, and the yield tapers off again the third half the plants and weed the rows. Several weeks later, as the week. After that, we tear out the beans. plants bush out, I thin the rows to create an 8-inch spacing between plants, and I weed a final time. Once the plants fill out, Inoculate and space the seed for a better crop they shade out most weeds. Thinning is about timing. Once seedlings have their first set of true Prior to planting, we inoculate bean seeds with nitrogen-fixing Green beans don’t tolerate frost and tend to brown like basil leaves, they’re ready to be thinned so that each plant is 4 inches apart. bacteria powder. This step allows the beans to produce nitrogen, at about 38°F. Keep this in mind when choosing dates for suc- which leads to a hardier plant, so I think it’s worth the time to cession plantings. Make your last planting 80 days before your

last frost-free date. If you live where summers get very hot, consider planting green beans in spring or fall because they lose tenderness in hot weather. TECHNIQUE ▾ How many beans should you plant at a time? One plant will yield about ½ pound of beans. If I were planting just for our Planting the three sisters family of four, I would plan on five to 10 plants per planting. When they’re in season, we eat green beans daily, so adjust your There is so much to learn from Native American agricultural practices. The Iroquois’ staple crops were the three sis- planting accordingly. ters: corn, beans, and squash. They planted them together because these crops were thought to be the sustainers of life. Pests and diseases are few and far between To this day, one of the most successful ways to grow beans is We have had no real pest problems with beans. One year, I 1. by using the three-sisters concept. found a few Mexican bean beetle larvae. Oddly enough, they 1. PLANT THE CORN after the last day of frost. Build a mound were only on the ‘Emerite’ beans I was trialing that season. I about 1 foot high and between 1½ and 3 feet in diameter. handpicked the larvae and crushed them. Sow four corn seeds 6 inches apart in the center. Limit the handling or harvesting of plants in rainy weather 2. PLANT THE BEANS once the corn is 4 inches tall. Sow four because this can knock off blossoms and decrease your yield. bean seeds 3 inches away from the corn plants. In humid climates, where rust might be a problem, handling wet plants can also transmit rust disease. We began feeding the 3. PLANT THE SQUASH. Sow four seeds, about a foot away from the beans, eventually thinning them down to one. If plants just at blossom set with a foliar spray of kelp, hoping this you are planting a large area, you can also sow the squash would encourage the plants to set fruit longer, but we don’t yet in separate mounds (1 foot in diameter) between every few have any proof of positive results. corn and bean mounds. We harvest every other day, picking pods when they are 4 to 2. The corn serves as a pole for your beans to climb. Beans, like 5 inches long. Green beans do not keep well, so you should eat other legumes, have bacteria living on their roots that help them within four days of picking. If you need to store your har- 3. them absorb nitrogen from the air and convert it to a form that vest for a few days, soak the beans in cold water to remove any plants can use. Corn, which requires a lot of nitrogen to grow, field heat, then drain them and refrigerate in a plastic bag. But benefits the most. The bean vines also provide extra rigidity, if you love these elegant, tender beans as much as we do, you preventing the corn stalk from falling down during windy or rainy days. The squash provides a layer of shade at soil level, won’t be storing them long. keeping the weeds down and the moisture up. Fertile soil goes a long way. Other than adequate space, beans —Patti Moreno Melinda Bateman farms in Arroyo Seco, New Mexico. need rich soil to bush out and produce to their fullest potential. Photos: Scott Phillips, p. 42; Ruth Lively, p. 43, p. 44; Danielle Sherry, p. 45 (right), p. 47 (top right and bottom left); courtesyp. 45 (right), 47 (top p. 43, 44; Danielle Sherry, Ruth Lively, Photos: Scott Phillips, p. 42; of Clemson University–USDA Cooperative HowardExtension Rice/gapphotos.com, Slide Series/bugwood.org, Collins, p. 46. Lockhart, p. 44; Carol p. 47 (bottom right). Illustrations: Chuck p. 47 (center right);

FINEGARDENING.COM 45 BASICS ▾ HAVING TROUBLE WITH YOUR BEANS? Beans at a glance We’ve got the answers to solve your problems today and avoid issues tomorrow The “snap” in snap beans is due not only to the removal of the suture string that used to hold the bean pod together but also to a reduction in the fiber in the pod tissue. This culinary development has, ironically, come at a cost, as the suture string and fiber are what caused the bean to BY JAMES NIENHUIS forcibly eject and disperse its seeds as the pods dry. The cost to gardeners is that the reduction in fiber means that it is more difficult for seed companies to cleanly and easily extract seeds from the drying pods, resulting in higher seed prices. Here are other tidbits to consider before [ PROBLEM ] buying these pricey seeds this season. Swiss cheese–like holes appear overnight on young plants.

SOLUTION Not all their habits are the same ◀ VINING Use slug-and-snail baits or traps, or handpick Just like tomatoes, beans can have an indeterminate Home gardeners often the pests nightly. (vining) or determinate (bush) growth habit. prefer indeterminate If you live in a northern location and don’t have cold-enough vining beans grown on winters to reduce the population, slugs and snails might show up a trellis so that they can in droves in spring. Will they eat bean plants? Absolutely. (The harvest a few beans at thistle is the only plant they won’t eat.) As we domesticated the a time each evening for dinner without having to bean plant to be more tender and more palatable to humans, bend over. made it more delectable to snails and slugs at the same time. Although baits and traps are an option, the most effective option for keeping these pests under control is picking them off by hand. After several nighttime outings, you will have put a significant dent in the population. The bean plants should bounce back from being munched on, and the harvest won’t be affected.

[ PROBLEM ] [ PROBLEM ] ▲ BUSH Blotches of yellow and brown spread Young plants are sheared Bush beans provide a more concentrated fruit set and allow for mechanical harvesting. This dramatically across the leaves, causing the plants or cut at the soil level. reduces production costs to farmers and processors to defoliate. SOLUTION and, theoretically, leads to reduced costs and greater SOLUTION abundance to consumers. For home gardeners with a Use collars, or accept some lack of space, bush types might also be a good choice. Plant western- minimal losses. grown seed. This tragedy is usually due to cut- Common blight (Xan- worms (top photo). There is no thomonas), as its name genetic defense against the various implies, is extremely species of cutworms (meaning you Color and shape often determine the taste common. All bean cul- can’t buy resistant bean varie ties) Not all snap beans are built the same when it comes to flavor. Here’s what you can expect from some of the most popular options. tivars that I am aware of because these critters will hide in are susceptible. This bac- plant residue, not just in the soil. terial disease is transmit- Tilling can expose the worms to ted by seed and develops their own set of hungry predators, during hot summers but tilling can ruin the soil structure. when the plants, pods, Sinking collars just below the soil and seeds within the pods are wet with rain. The control is surface around week-old seedlings WAX BEANS FRENCH BEANS PURPLE BEANS simply to plant seeds that were grown in a hot, dry climate (bottom photo) is beyond my level The yellow of wax beans is a recessive muta- The pods of French beans Many heirloom varieties of snap beans come in an (where furrow irrigation is the water source in summer and, of gardening patience. I take a more tion that results in degradation of chlorophyll tend to be thinner than array of purples and reds. The purple and red pig- therefore, the foliage, pods, and developing seeds remain dry). laid-back approach to cutworms: I in the pods, similar to the change some leaves those of traditional snap ments are due to anthocyanins, which are water The dry seeds and seed coats keep the bacteria from develop- might lose a few seedlings, but that make in fall. The color is heat stable and beans and are extremely soluble; upon cooking, the colors dissipate to a ing. The disease is, thus, cleverly avoided by using western- leaves more space for the surviving not soluble in water, so the beans will retain tender. Some say that their dull gray-green reminiscent of Soviet-era architec- grown seed. Remember: If you live someplace where the sum- their sunny color upon cooking. The flavor is taste is “grassy” or “earthy,” ture. The beans, however, have a similar flavor to bean plants to flourish. mers are hot and humid, you shouldn’t save your bean seeds to sweeter than that of many green varieties. similar to that of asparagus. their all-green siblings, but they can be a bit tough. replant the following year.

46 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 47 RECIPES

GREEN BEANS & CARROTS IN CHARMOULA SAUCE by Anna Thomas from Fine Cooking

SERVES 10 TO 12. To make the sauce, chop the garlic in a food processor. Add the cilantro and parsley, and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add the olive 2 large cloves garlic, peeled oil, lemon juice, paprika, ground cumin, and ¾ tsp. salt. Pulse until the 2 oz. fresh cilantro (about 2 cups) sauce has the consistency of rough pesto. Season to taste with salt. 1 oz. fresh flat-leaf parsley (about 1 cup) In a large pot fitted with a steamer insert, bring an inch of water to a 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil boil over high heat. Steam the green beans, covered, until just tender, 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 4 to 7 minutes. Pull the steamer basket from the pot, shake to remove ½ tsp. sweet or hot paprika excess water, and transfer the beans to a large serving bowl; cover to ½ tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and ground keep warm. Add the carrots to the basket, and steam, covered, until Sea salt tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer them to the bowl with the beans. 2 lb. slender green beans, trimmed Toss the vegetables with about three-quarters of the sauce. 1 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into thin 4-inch-long sticks Season to taste with more sauce, salt, and pepper. Freshly ground black pepper

ISRAELI COUSCOUS SALAD WITH CORN, GREEN BEANS & GOAT CHEESE by Joanne Weir from Fine Cooking

SERVES EIGHT TO 10.

Kosher salt Bring to a boil a large pot of salted water Let the couscous cool completely in the 1 cup fresh corn kernels over high heat. Cook the corn kernels until refrigerator. 1 cup green beans (cut into 1-inch pieces) just tender, about 1 minute; transfer with a Put the lemon juice in a small bowl, and 2¼ cups Israeli couscous slotted spoon to a colander. Add the green gradually whisk in the remaining ½ cup of beans to the boiling water, and cook until olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pep- ½ cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, crisp-tender, about 3 minutes; transfer to per and additional lemon juice or olive oil as more as needed

1 the colander. needed. ⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice, more as needed Keep the water at a boil while you toast Put the couscous in a large serving bowl, Freshly ground pepper the couscous in two batches in a dry skil- and toss to break up any clumps. Add the 1 cup diced or sliced zucchini (½-inch dice let over medium heat, stirring until golden corn, green beans, zucchini, cheese, basil, or ¼-inch-thick half-rounds) brown, about 4 minutes. Cook the couscous and the vinaigrette, and toss. Season to 1 cup crumbled goat cheese in the boiling water until tender, about 10 taste with salt and pepper. Serve within an 4 Tbs. chopped fresh basil minutes. Drain the couscous, and toss it hour or two of making. immediately with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil.

48 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 49 A better way to Water ary Williamson. Doing it right is the difference G between having a good garden

and a great garden llustrations:

BY JOHN BRAY

atering a vegetable garden can be as Investigate your soil W easy as watching Dig into your garden, and find out whether the rain or as ridiculous as feed- you have clay or sandy soil; it makes a big ing plant limbs intra venously. I difference in your drainage. Clay-laden soil presents special watering challenges. Clay don’t know anyone who takes

ice/www.gapphotos.com, p. 51 (bottom right). I ice/www.gapphotos.com, has an electrical charge that draws water, the hospital-bed approach to pulling it away from plant roots. In dense plant nourishment. I do know clay, little room exists for passages that Choose your time wisely people who let the heavens do permit the exchange of essential gases Early morning, late afternoon, and evening are usually the best times for watering with the air above ground. Clay soil also because the cool temperatures mean less water will evaporate. Limiting your watering the heavy labor when it comes drains slowly. Water flows more easily to these times is a particularly good idea if you use overhead sprinklers. It’s also safer to irrigation. They run for the through sandy soil, but if it’s too sandy, not to water at night because the leaves will remain wet, which may encourage disease. hose only after the rain has water may leach out too quickly and take In arid places, however, some people decide to risk watering at night to give the water dissolved nutrients with it. Both clay and longer to soak into the soil and cut evaporation from the sun. turned irregular and they notice sandy soils can be turned into a preferred that their garden is starting to loam by mixing in organic material, such resemble the Mojave Desert. as compost. Somewhere in between is the ground that will give your Get a bigger bang per bucket plants the right amount of Consider the life cycle of the plants water to flourish. Really, within your garden when you water. ichael King/www.gapphotos.com, p. 51 (top right); Howard R p. 51 (top right); Howard ichael King/www.gapphotos.com, out being in your garden, no Recent transplants, for example, need frequent light watering to one can tell you how much accom modate their shallow young water this will turn out to TIP Do a drainage test roots and ease the shock of being be. Each garden has its own Check how quickly your soil pulled from their six-packs. For idiosyncrasies that must be absorbs water by using a some crops, like tomatoes, yields coffee can with the top and may improve but some flavor may observed. Here are a few bottom removed. Push one be lost with too much watering as things to do when deciding end into the soil a few inches. fruit ripens. And with carrots and how and when to water Fill the can with water, and cabbages, watering should be let it drain completely. Fill it reduced as the crop reaches matu- your beds. again, and see how long it rity to keep the vegetables from

reenmedia/www.gapphotos.com, p. 51 (left); M p. reenmedia/www.gapphotos.com, takes for the water level to splitting. Once plants are estab- drop 1 inch. If it takes more lished, more harm than good is

FhF G than four hours, you’ve prob- done by giving them a daily sprin- ably got a drainage problem kling. If only the soil surface gets

Photos: that could harm plant roots. wet, roots will look up, not down, for their drinks. Deep, less frequent watering works best.

50 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 51 Grow thirsty plants together If you have the space in your gar- How to make sure it’s enough den, you can save yourself some trouble by grouping plants accord- According to a common rule of (green) thumb, a garden needs about 1 inch of ing to their water needs. You water per week. But divining how much the garden is actually getting can be a wouldn’t want to plant your herbs little tricky. You can estimate by using a rain gauge to track precipitation. The next to your lettuce, for example, gauge should be near the garden but where water splashing off pavement or even though they often wind up overhangs won’t affect the reading. When it comes to your own watering, the together in the salad bowl. Herbs amount can be checked with a flow meter attached to the garden spigot. About generally thrive in dry areas, while 60 gallons will provide about 1 inch of water over 100 square feet. In especially lettuces like it moist. If the lettuce dry climates or if you’re using raised beds, more water may be needed. gets the water it needs, the herbs are likely to be lush but tasteless. There are myriad methods to deliver the water. Some gardens are small If you water to suit the herbs, enough to water by hand. The large size of others or a lack of time may require chances are that the lettuce will more elaborate arrangements, including sprinklers, soaker hoses, or drip- turn out bitter. By grouping the irrigation systems. You have to balance your commitment with the needs of plants according to their water the plants and the results you expect. needs, you won’t waste water where it isn’t needed.

Read the leaves Don’t let leaves fool you. If they’re drooping in the hot, midday sun, you need not necessarily be alarmed. The plants may just be protecting themselves by exposing less surface to the sun and conserving water, unable to pump enough to offset the loss through the leaf stomatas (inset). If the same plants are drooping in the morning or at night, then you can rev up the water wagon. But don’t cause a flood. Saturated soil drives out the air that roots need, and plants will drown. And there’s no reason to water the leaves. That encourages a variety of fungi that develops under moist conditions, causing mildew and blight.

Water before you mulch Mulch helps conserve water in your soil by shielding the ground from the hot rays that burn off moisture. But it’s a good idea to soak the Keep water percolating in the zone soil before you lay on that first layer of mulch. The root network is the critical area of watering. And the Just as mulch hinders evaporation, it also slows depth varies among plants—in general, we’re talking the penetration of moisture to the roots. It’s about the first 6 to 8 inches of soil. Keeping that section more efficient to get the water down first, then moist should prevent plants from being parched by thirst mulch. It also may initially save your plants or stressed from binge drinking. With a good garden soil, from waiting for water to percolate through the you should be able to squeeze a little dirt into a clump that mulch when they are accustomed to getting it will break up easily if you gently bounce it in your palm. right away. Mulch, of course, will also suppress those thirsty weeds trying to elbow their way to the fountain.

John Bray is a former associate editor of Kitchen Garden.

52 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 53 Growing perfect summer squash is a snap. With consistent water, a bit of fertilizer, and some minor pest control, you can harvest picture-perfect squash like this for months.

Secrets to summer squash A few simple strategies keep them going strong all season long

BY JO MELLER AND JIM SLUYTER

here is no doubt about it—summer squash germination. We used to start squash, which has is a prolific producer. Around here, folks very delicate roots, inside and transplant out after T lock their car doors in midsummer, not to the threat of frost had passed, but we found that prevent theft but to keep gardeners from throwing seeds planted along with the transplants matured their excess zucchini into the backseat. We avoid at about the same time. If you need to plant inside growing tired of zucchini by growing a wide range because of cool soil, give each plant its own pot and of the tastiest summer squash varieties and harvest- carefully transplant into the garden two weeks later. ing them at their peak. By planting several succes- Squash plants are tender and need protection if a sion crops, watering the root zone with the help of late frost threatens. sunken pots, and smother ing weeds with a cover A month after the first planting, we do a second crop, we reap a steady harvest from healthy plants sowing. If we can find the space, we will do an addi- over a long season. This keeps summer squash high tional planting a few weeks after that. We pull out on the list of favorites for the members of our and compost the first plants as they slow down. This community-supported agriculture (CSA) farm. gives us young, strong, prolific plants until the first fall frost.

Begin succession planting when the soil warms The family is large and diverse. We plant half our summer squash when the ground Sink in pots for consistent watering Although this pattypan squash may has thoroughly warmed up after the last frost. The When we plant squash in late spring, we are already look like a gourd, it is not. Like most soil temperature must be 65°F or higher for good thinking ahead about how to make summer water- squashes, this variety is worth growing for its sweet, delectable flavor.

54 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 55 TECHNIQUE ▾

ing easy. We begin by sowing squash seeds in hills 4 feet Fertilize and control weeds with hairy vetch Plant a squash hill in 3 simple steps apart. To prepare the bed, we mark where the hills will When the seedlings are up and thinned, it’s time to plant be and dig a hole 2 feet deep by 1 or 2 feet wide. Sum- hairy vetch between the hills. The vetch prevents erosion Prepare the perfect hill. Dig a hole 2 feet deep, and fill it half full with compost. mer squash requires fertile soil to support its large leaves and keeps the ground cooler on hot summer days. It also This will encourage vigorous root growth. 1. and rapid growth, so we put in a couple shovelfuls of crowds out most weeds in the space between the hills. compost and build a hill with the garden dirt dug from But its greatest virtue is that it changes the nitrogen in the hole. As we backfill the hole, we bury a 1-gallon nurs- the air into a form that can be taken up by the squash ery pot in the middle. The rim of the pot should be 1 or plants, a process known as nitrogen fixation. 2 inches out of the ground when the hill is finished, and To plant the vetch, we cast the seeds thickly on bare there should be no soil in the pot. We plant four to six ground, starting about 6 inches from the squash seedlings, seeds per hill, about ½ inch deep. We poke them into the then rake them in and tamp lightly with the back of the ground 2 to 3 inches away from the pots. rake. We water frequently until the vetch is well estab- Once the seeds have germinated, we thin each hill to lished. During fall cleanup, we turn it into the soil to the two or three strongest plants. As the plants grow enhance the bed for next year’s crop. larger, the sunken nursery pots give us the advantage of watering at root level. We also shovel some compost into Watch out for squash bugs the pots later in the season to give the plants compost As the season progresses, one of the first concerns you tea as we water. Summer squash is a thirsty plant; we may have is that the plants don’t appear to be setting water in the nursery pots once or twice a week, even if fruit. Squash is not self-pollinating, so bees are important there has been rain. in the fruiting process. Also, don’t worry if some of the

The squash plants are planted around the empty pot, not in it. Three plants { per hill is the perfect amount.

Add a plastic nursery pot. Place a 2. pot in the center of the hole, with the lip extending above the ground 1 to 2 inches, and backfill the hole.

Finish off the bed. 3. Rake the soil smooth around the pot, and gently tamp it down with a soil rake. Try to avoid getting any soil in the pot.

A planting of hairy vetch around the hills discourages { weeds and feeds the soil.

Filling the empty pot with water allows you to concentrate and { evenly disperse moisture.

FINEGARDENING.COM 57 Learn to identify the bad bugs. Squash-bug eggs (left) are a shiny orange-brown and can be scraped off the leaves with your fingers. In the nymphal stage (below), squash bugs look like big It may have a funny name, but it’s a squash’s best friend. gray aphids. A handful of hairy-vetch seeds is all that’s needed to keep the Zucchini is weeds at bay and give your plants a nutritious boost. just the begin- ning (clockwise from top): ‘Eight Ball’, ‘White flowers don’t set fruit at all. Squash has male and female Bush’, ‘Gentry’, BASICS flowers, and the males usually bloom first and do not pro- ‘Raven’, and ▾ duce fruit. ‘Sunburst’. There are several insects that harm summer-squash crops. One of the most serious is the squash bug, a dingy brownish Pick the right insect that smells awful when crushed. It resists most organic varieties for the pesticides, so we handpick the bugs every couple of days to keep them in check. We also look for their eggs—which are best taste a little smaller than sesame seeds, shiny and orange-brown— Zucchini the size of baseball bats are usually clustered on the underside of the leaves. We scrape impressive enough, but they’ve grown them off carefully but don’t worry if we damage the leaf a far beyond their best flavor. Since little in the process; the insects can do far more harm. We squash can grow rapidly, check plants daily when they start to produce. also handpick the nymphs, which look a little like overgrown Keeping the squash picked promotes gray aphids. a steady supply. Summer squash that Cucumber beetles in the squash patch can spread bac- is too large becomes bland but is still terial wilt. They prefer cucum bers, but we handpick (you suitable for zucchini bread. For the have to be fast!) the few we find on squash. If the vines best flavor, get summer squashes off the vine before they are more than 7 to suddenly wilt, it could be a symptom of bacterial wilt. 8 inches long. Remove the infected parts of the plant, but be sure to dis- We’ve tried many varieties, and our infect your pruners before using them again. There is no long-time favorite is ‘Sunburst’. A treatment for bacterial wilt, so it is important to check yellow pattypan or scallopini type of frequently for cucumber beetles. summer squash, it is both attractive Squash vine borer can also cause wilting leaves. If you and tasty. A Lebanese variety named ‘White Bush’ (also called Mideast or suspect vine borer, look for a small hole near the base of cousa type) is a bulbous, light green the plant. We usually slit the vine from that point, destroy squash with white speckles. the borer, and try to save the plant. Be on the lookout for The green zucchini group has many the adult vine borer, a rather pretty, clear-winged moth winners, including ‘Raven’— our fa- with a red abdomen—a sure sign of borer activity. vorite—but ‘Black Zucchini’ is another nice option. ‘Eight Ball’ (and its new As squash plants age, the leaves often start to turn whit- cousins, ‘One Ball’ and ‘Cue Ball’) are ish, most likely from powdery mildew. The plants will still interesting for their shape: perfectly produce fruit for a while after this process begins, but this round and best when picked about the is the time when we are happy to have planted another size of a billiard ball. crop of squash. Despite these pest and disease problems, Yellow crookneck and straightneck succession plantings keep us far enough ahead of the game varieties abound, but our favorites are ‘Gentry’ and ‘Early Prolific Straight- that we are supplied with summer squash until we have neck’, respectively. had our fill. Control infestations as soon as possible. The adult squash bug is Jo Meller and Jim Sluyter started Five Springs Farm, a CSA farm an unattractive brown color and has an unappealing smell when crushed. in Bear Lake, Michigan, in 1994. M. Jemmott. Illustration: Christopher Clapp. Danielle Sherry; p. 39, Janet Other photos: p. 38, noted: John Bray. Photos, except where Dropping the bugs into a jar of soapy water is one way to get rid of them.

58 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 59 RECIPES

SAUTÉED ZUCCHINI WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES & BASIL by Tony Rosenfeld

SERVES FOUR AS A SIDE DISH.

3 small or 2 medium zucchini (about 1 lb.) Kosher salt 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled 2 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and finely diced 6 fresh basil leaves, torn into large pieces Freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

Quarter and salt the zucchini. Cut ZUCCHINI & YELLOW SQUASH RIBBONS each quarter on the diagonal into WITH DAIKON, OREGANO & BASIL ¾-inch-thick diamonds. by Joanne Weir Heat a large (preferably 12-inch) SERVES EIGHT. skillet over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Pour in 2 Tbs. of the 3 small zucchini (about 1 lb.) oil. When the oil is hot, add the 3 small yellow summer squash (about 1 lb.) zucchini and garlic, and sauté, stir- SUMMER SQUASH SALAD WITH LEMON, CAPERS & PARMESAN 1 large daikon radish (about ½ lb.) ring occasionally, until the zucchini by Tasha DeSerio 20 basil leaves, very thinly sliced browns and softens enough that SERVES SIX TO EIGHT. 2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano you can cut through it with the side 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil of a fork, about 5 minutes. Take 1 clove garlic 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice the pan off the heat, toss in the Kosher salt 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest sun-dried tomatoes and basil, and ¼ cup fresh lemon juice Kosher salt season generously with salt and ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper pepper. Drizzle with the lemon juice 1 lb. summer squash (yellow squash, zucchini, or a mix) and the remaining 1 Tbs. oil, and Small basil leaves for garnish (optional) Freshly ground black pepper serve immediately. 4 cups loosely packed baby arugula Trim the ends of the zucchini and yellow summer ½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves squash. With a vegetable peeler, shave the zucchini

½ cup chopped chives, cut into ½-inch lengths lengthwise into long, wide strips about 1⁄16 inch thick. 2 Tbs. capers, rinsed well When you get to the center of the zucchini, where the 1 oz. (¼ cup) finely grated parmigiano reggiano, plus a chunk to save for garnish seeds are, turn it over and slice from the other side until you get to the center again. Discard the center. In a mortar or using the flat side of a chef’s knife, mash the garlic to a paste with a Put the zucchini ribbons in a large bowl. Slice the yel- pinch of salt. Put the paste in a small bowl (or keep it in the mortar), and whisk in the low squash using the same technique, and add the lemon juice. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes and then whisk in the olive oil. slices to the zucchini. Peel off and discard the rough Using a mandoline or a sharp chef’s knife, cut the squash diagonally into very thin exterior peel of the daikon, and then shave the daikon (1⁄16- to 1⁄8-inch) ovals. Put the squash in a medium bowl, season with salt and pepper, as you did the squash. Add the strips to the bowl with and gently toss with two-thirds of the vinaigrette. the squash, along with the basil and oregano. Combine the arugula, parsley, chives, and capers in a separate bowl, season with In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper, and toss with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat. Taste both the and lemon zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper. squash and herbs, and adjust the seasoning with salt or pepper if necessary. Layer Toss the vegetables with enough of the vinaigrette about a third of the squash in a shallow bowl or platter, scatter about a third of the to lightly coat them (you may not need all of the arugula mixture on top, and sprinkle with a third of the grated Parmesan. Repeat the vinaigrette), and season to taste with salt and pep- process with the remaining squash-and-arugula mixture, sprinkling each layer with per. Serve immediately, garnished with the small basil grated Parmesan. For garnish, use a vegetable peeler to shave long strips from the leaves (if using). chunk of Parmesan onto the salad. Serve immediately.

60 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 61 hen I moved from suburbia to a farm, I didn’t let the fact that I’d never planted a fruit or vegetable deter MELON TIPS me from starting my own agricultural enterprise. • Start seeds indoors about three W weeks before the last frost date. After talking to people and reading several articles, I decided to grow melons. My inexperience showed. Neighbors gawked at • Plant two seeds per pot, keeping Summer them together in the same hole my crooked rows and maintained a stunned silence when they learned I’d planted more than 600 seedlings with a soup spoon when transplanting into the garden. because I didn’t own a trowel. • Use black-plastic mulch to warm Eventually my neighbor, Slim Bunk, decided to help. In an the ground, prevent weeds, and unassuming way, he showed me his garden and inquired about retain soil moisture. MELONS my crop. He gave me a string line and helped me plant my • Set plants out when frost danger Use these simple strategies for a quicker harvest and the best flavor first straight row. Slim taught me to identify weeds and bugs, has passed. to drive a tractor, and to recognize and solve problems before • Use row covers to protect newly BY LAURIE TODD they grow into disasters. At 83, he remains my mentor and the set plants from insects and harsh first person with whom I discuss new ideas. weather. Remove the covers as Many years have passed since I harvested that unsightly first soon as the first flowers appear. melon patch. Despite my naïveté, I had a beautiful crop. Since 1983 I’ve sold melons at the local farmers’ market. Even at the height of the season, with 1,200 melons, I sell out. Home-

They’re a highlight of the late harvest. Homegrown melons take a while to ripen, but their taste can’t be beat.

FINEGARDENING.COM 63 Homegrown melons are so luscious that they expose store-bought ones as flavorless imitations.

grown melons are so luscious that they expose store-bought ones as flavorless imitations. By using a few simple tricks, you can enjoy them too. The term “summer melons” (or muskmelons) describes a range of fruit that includes cantaloupes, honeydews, Crenshaws, and Charentais. Taste is my main criterion when choosing varieties. With few exceptions, I’ve discovered that only full-season melons possess the flavor I desire. These varieties, which mature in 11 to 13 weeks, meld fragrance and texture with a rich melon tang. If you love cantaloupe, the sweet, full-bodied flavor of ‘Gold Star’ is unsurpassed. At 87 days to maturity, ‘Gold Star’ takes a while to ripen, but it is well worth the wait. For honeydews, I like ‘Passport’ and ‘Morning Ice’. ‘Passport’ is unusual because it is early to mature (73 days) and flavorful. My experience with ‘Pass- port’ is that the first-set fruit have excellent taste but later fruit aren’t quite as good. ‘Morning Ice’ is a tasty honeydew that matures in 84 days. Melon connoisseurs who want a real treat should consider growing ‘Savor’, a French Charentais melon. Charentais are small—about 2 pounds—and round, with a gray-green rind and deep orange flesh. They are renowned for their exceptional flavor. Melons sometimes pick themselves. The stem of this ‘Gold Star’ Start melons indoors in cool regions cantaloupe has detached, signaling that the fruit is ready to be harvested. To get full-season melons to mature in my upstate New York garden, I start them indoors and plant them right after the frost-free date. Melons can’t stand freezing temperatures, but I usually risk an early planting. If you decide to do the same and set plants out before the last frost, be prepared to protect them with covers. I start melons three to four weeks before my frost- free date. Although it’s tempting to begin sooner, I don’t. Melons should be growing rapidly when they go into the garden. Plants kept too long indoors become root-bound and stunted. I use small pots that are 1½ inches in diameter Don’t be fooled by a homely and 3 inches deep. It’s all right to use slightly larger exterior. Beneath the warts and cells, but not smaller ones. I fill the cells with a cracks, ‘Savor’ Charentais melons sterilized, soilless mix and plant two seeds per cell, have flavorful, juicy, golden flesh. placing them ½ to ¾ inch deep. Be patient with your melon crop. ‘Morning Ice’ can Melons germinate at 75°F to 80°F in moist but take up to 84 days to mature, but its refreshing taste is not saturated conditions. Once my seedlings pop up, worth the wait.

64 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 65 I feed them weekly with balanced, liquid fertilizer (10-10-10). Melon seedlings require plenty of light. Green, stocky plants are a sure sign of proper development and good health. When my seedlings have developed their first true leaves (at two to three weeks old), I prepare them for outdoor conditions by setting them outside and gradually increasing their exposure to wind and sun. Like other seedlings, melons taken from indoor conditions and planted directly in the garden may not survive the shock.

Harvesting sometimes only takes a tug As harvest approaches, melon vines shift energy from producing leaves to ripening fruit. So don’t be surprised if the mature melon patch looks peaked compared to the lush growth of early summer. I usually harvest four to six melons per plant. All the ones I grow, except ‘Savor’ and ‘Morning Ice’, prac- tically pick themselves. When ripe, they “slip” from BASICS the plant by disconnecting from the vine. ▾ Summer melons turn from green to beige and then to beige with yellow undertones as they ripen. Ripe melons are beige with a yellowish glow. It’s easy to tell that this Grow melons in any location When you begin to smell their aroma, your melons ‘Passport’ melon is almost ready to be picked because of its outer coloring. are almost ready. Whenever I spot a melon with a This honeydew hybrid typically has green flesh, though occasionally you’ll find one that’s orange inside. Despite the folklore that melons require an abundance of precipitation and heat, I’ve discovered that they perform best yellow undertone, I examine where that fruit joins with average to moderate rainfall and temperatures around 85°F. But don’t worry if you live in an area where summer its vine. The melon is ripe when a gentle tug releases scorchers send temperatures over 90°F and even above 100°F. Once established, melons can take the heat. the fruit. This stage is called “half slip.” A dead-ripe melon will eventually disengage itself from the vine. • Blackplasticspeedsgrowth •waterwellatplantingtime In short-season areas, using a black-plastic mulch is key Water melons within 30 minutes of plant ing. They need The time from half slip to full slip is, at most, two to growing full-season melons successfully. Plastic warms about 2 cups per planting hole to ensure proper soil-to- days. To limit the number of fruit I share with mice the soil, prevents weed germination, and retains soil root contact. To get my plants off to a quick start, I add and other unwelcome garden creatures, I check mel- moisture. a tablespoon of 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer per gallon of ons every day and pick them at half slip. Healthy water. During the growing season, I recommend a good vines continue to set fruit well into summer, but in • MELONS NEED ROOM soaking if it hasn’t rained for a week. I plant my seedlings 3 feet apart within the row and leave cooler climates, late-set fruit don’t ripen. 6 feet between rows. If space is limited, some gardeners •protectmelonsfromweeds, Charentais melons, like ‘Savor’, will not slip, but manage to grow melons on vertical trellises. PESTS, AND DISEASE they will start to separate from the vine. By the time Although weeds won’t grow directly under black plastic, ‘Savor’ is ready to harvest, it often has warts and • don’tdisturBtheirroots they will pop up in the holes you’ve made for the plants cracks, and is as homely as it is delicious. I pick When it’s time to plant, punch holes in the plastic where and in between the rows. I eliminate these competitors ‘Savor’ when its skin has a beige undertone and the melons will grow. I plant two seedlings together in the while they are still young and too little to adversely same hole. Gently remove the plants from their starter affect my plants. when a hard tug detaches the fruit. containers, and bury them about an inch deeper in the Striped cucumber beetles arrive in midspring, and ‘Morning Ice’ may require a strong tug before it garden than they were in the seed cells. they damage melons by chewing on plants and disengages from the vine. It tends to split before spreading a bacterial virus. Biological controls are

ther photos: Scott Phillips, pp. 62-63. ther photos: Scott Phillips, pp. reaching maturity. I allow split fruit to ripen because • rowcoversofferwarmth available to curtail these nasty bugs. Row covers also I’ve discovered that only a small portion of the melon Immediately after planting, drape the melons with a row offer some protection. cover. Anchor the cloth every 3 feet with half a shovel- Powdery mildew reduces the plants’ photosynthetic needs to be discarded. Although it’s difficult to judge ful of dirt. The cover should rest directly on top of the capability, causing melons to be less sweet. But don’t quality by appearances, I’ve found that heavy net- plants. Row covers provide about 2°F of extra frost worry. Your first crop of melons will be well established ting (the rough webbing on the melon’s surface) is a protection, accelerate plant development, and protect before the mildew takes hold. The negative effects, sign of superior taste in cantaloupes. seedlings from strong winds and airborne insects. I therefore, will only be pronounced on later fruit. remove the cloth as soon as the first flowers appear It doesn’t take a lot of muscle. A little pull is all you should so that bees can pollinate the blooms. Laurie Todd started The Melon Foundation in Lansing, need to harvest a melon. New York. Photos, except where noted: Susan Kahn. O Photos, except where

66 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 67 RECIPES

MELON FROST by Laurie Todd

SERVES FOUR. MELON CAKE WITH CITRUS GLAZE 2 cups puréed melon by Laurie Todd 1 cup plain, low-fat yogurt MÂCHE WITH SPICY MELON & PINK-PEPPERCORN DRESSING SERVES 12. by Annie Wayte 2 cups orange juice 1 Tbs. lime juice 3 cups flour SERVES FOUR. Toast the pink peppercorns lightly in a small skillet over ¼ cup sugar 4 tsp. baking powder medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Lightly crush them with a 1 tsp. pink peppercorns ¼ tsp. ground ginger or 2 dime-size pieces of 1 cup granulated sugar mortar and pestle or on a cutting board with the bottom of 3 Tbs. unsalted sunflower seeds crystallized ginger ¾ cup butter, at room temperature another small skillet. Set aside. In the same skillet you used 1 medium ripe melon (cantaloupe, to toast the peppercorns, lightly toast the sunflower seeds Mint leaves or blueberries (for garnish) 3 eggs Crenshaw, or Charentais), over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the pan, 2¼ cup puréed orange-fleshed melon peeled, cut into thirds, Place all the ingredients in a food processor and set aside. 1¼ cup confectioners’ sugar and seeded or blender, and purée. Freeze the mixture in an Coarsely chop approximately one-third of the melon, ¼ cup lemon or orange juice 1 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar; uncovered bowl until it is the consistency of fro- and purée it in a blender until smooth, about 45 seconds. more to taste zen slush, 2 to 4 hours. Return the mixture to the You should have 1 scant cup of melon purée. Pour it into a Preheat oven to 350°F. Sift the flour and baking powder together, and set 2 tsp. fresh lime juice; more food processor or blender. Purée again. Spoon medium bowl, and add the vinegar, lime juice, chile, garlic, aside. Cream the granulated sugar and butter until fluffy. Add eggs, one at a to taste into chilled glasses. Garnish with fresh mint or and half the crushed peppercorns. Slowly whisk in the olive time, stirring well after each addition. ¼ tsp. chopped fresh hot chile blueberries. oil. Stir in the chopped mint leaves, and salt to taste. If the Add the dry ingredients in two parts to the butter mixture, alternating twice (such as serrano, jalapeño, dressing is too sweet, add a little more vinegar or lime juice. with the melon purée. After each addition, stir the mixture until smooth. Be care- or Thai bird’s eye) Just before serving, cut the remaining melon lengthwise ful to clean the batter from the edges and bottom of the bowl. Mix the batter on ¼ tsp. minced garlic into eight long, elegant slices, each about 1 inch thick. In a medium high for about 2 minutes. 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil large bowl, toss the mâche and torn mint leaves with just Pour the batter into a greased and floured tube-cake pan. Bake for 50 min- 1 tsp. coarsely chopped mint leaves, enough dressing to lightly coat the leaves. Season with salt utes or just until a cake tester comes out clean. Meanwhile, prepare the glaze plus 12 large mint leaves, torn into to taste. Arrange the mâche on serving plates with two slices by mixing confectioners’ sugar with the lemon or orange juice until smooth. small pieces of melon per plate. Scatter the toasted sunflower seeds and Cool the cake in its pan for 10 minutes, then turn it out onto a cooling rack. Kosher salt remaining pink peppercorns over the top. Serve the remaining Spoon or pour glaze over the warm cake. 3 oz. mâche, trimmed, washed, and melon dressing on the side. dried (about 3½ cups)

68 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 69 or me, pumpkins are one of those foods that bring duce both male and female flowers. The female flowers up a host of pleasant memories. As a boy, I remem- are open for only one day and will produce pumpkins if F ber the rich, spicy aroma of pumpkin pies baking in pollinated. Sometimes the first female flowers will open Grandma’s kitchen—a special treat we ate only at Thanks- before there are any male flowers to pollinate them. They giving and Christmas. Now that I have more say in the mat- will dry up and drop off, but the plant will continue to PUMPKINS ter of what my family eats, we consume lots of pumpkin: produce flowers. Follow these easy steps to grow the king of vegetables as a vegetable side dish, in breads, in pies and puddings, and even in ice cream. The right variety depends on room and region The pumpkin possesses many desirable characteristics. It Besides being easy to grow, pumpkins are available in BY WILLIAM BROWN is easy to grow, prolific, nutritious, and relatively free from numerous varieties, each possessing its own appeal. To pests and diseases. It stores well and produces edible seeds decide which to plant, consider what you want to do with and meat that can be eaten as either a sweet or savory dish. the pumpkins: eat them as a sweet or savory dish, or use But the most common use for pumpkins is undoubtedly them as an autumnal ornament. Also consider if you are decorative. growing pumpkins to store for midwinter dining and how Pumpkins are closely related to squash and grow well in much space you have in the garden. most climate zones, although gardeners in northern areas or Whatever you decide, keep in mind the length of your at high altitudes will want to use a row cover or some other growing season. Most pumpkin varieties need at least 95 type of frost protection for cool spring evenings. days to mature, with some larger varieties taking as many Pumpkin plants are either indeterminate creeping vines as 120 days. I have grown pumpkins in areas ranging from or determinate shorter vines but not true bushes. They pro- USDA Hardiness Zones 1 to 5, but gardeners as far south

This family is large and diverse. They can be long and green, flat and red, or perfectly round and orange, but all pumpkins are vegetable garden essentials.

FINEGARDENING.COM 71 TECHNIQUE as Zone 9 grow them as well. In the South, pumpkins are ▾ generally grown as a winter food crop (they mature at the wrong time of the year for Halloween activ ities), and they develop well even in high heat as long as they have Accelerate the A $25 HOLE FOR A enough water. pumpkin season. Soil blocks I usually grow at least two varieties of small to medium $5 PLANT give seedlings pumpkins, and I make sure that at least one variety matures more room to To grow the best pumpkins possible, you need to early. My favorites for smaller pumpkins (the 4-to-10-pound grow, so you amend your soil before planting. Pumpkins like rich, range) are ‘New England Pie’; ‘Rocket’; ‘Racer’; ‘Small can keep them loamy soil that is well drained but remains moist. indoors longer. Adding things like compost and fertilizer to the Sugar’; ‘Howden’; ‘Montana Jack’; and ‘Long Pie’, an heir- planting hole will ensure that your pumpkins grow loom that is harvested green and turns orange in storage. to their potential. While I don’t normally grow tiny decorative pumpkins, I have friends who have had great success with ‘Jack Be 1. Start by chopping out a hole considerably bigger Little’ and ‘Fairy Tale.’ than the pumpkin seedling. Sometimes the claw end of a steel hammer works best. Pumpkins prefer a well-drained, fertile, loamy soil, with a neutral pH, but they will grow in heavier clay soils as 2. Add compost and an organic fertilizer mix (see facing page) to your planting hole. long as they are not continually wet. To build up and enrich the soil prior to planting, I prepare what my dad 3. Transplant seedlings when they are eight to 12 weeks old. After planting, make a moat around the used to call a “$25 hole for a $5 plant.” I dig a hole approx- transplant so that the water stays where you want imately 12 inches deep and 2 to 3 feet wide, then fill it it—near the plant. with a mixture of compost, topsoil from the hole, and a blend of organic fertilizers and soil amendments. I then mound the excess soil and compost mixture into a traditional hill.

Mounds and mulch hasten the harvest umpkins like hot feet. The traditional small hill or mound P Cloches offer protection from the cold. They (12 to 18 inches high) warms up quickly in spring, speed- also give plants a moist growing environment.

Organic pumpkin fertilizer

I have been using this formula since 1986, when I had a RECIPE 5-acre market garden in upstate Minnesota. I needed a I fertilize each plant with a mix of the following: baseline mix that would produce good yields. With the ½ cup blood meal (for nitrogen) help of a chemistry teacher, I developed a mix that works 1 cup bonemeal (for phosphorus) well in warm soil, with enough biological activity to break ¾ cup greensand the fertilizer into a food plants can use. ¼ cup hardwood ashes (for potassium) Bonemeal 2 tablespoons agricultural lime (for calcium) 2 table spoons pelleted sulfur

1⁄3 cup kelp meal

Wood ashes

Blood meal

Greensand Lime

FINEGARDENING.COM 73 Soil blocks are another option for jump-starting the pumpkin season. If I start the seeds indoors using soil blocks, I can hold off on transplanting my pumpkins until late spring without plants becoming root-bound. I put out 8-to-12-week-old plants late in spring and cover them with floating row covers or cloches for protection from late-season frost. Lots of room is important because these sun-loving plants grow to fill the available space—and then some. I usually grow the indeterminate, creeping-vine type. I plant pumpkins into hills 12 feet apart, then train the vines toward the next hill in the row so that they fill the space in between. Space bush varieties 8 feet apart in all directions. I also spray the plants once or twice during the growing season with a foliar mix of kelp and liquid fish emulsion.

Avoid pests to preserve the patch Once pumpkins are in the garden and growing, they require little maintenance, just consistent watering and a watchful eye for pests: leaf miners, squash bugs, and squash vine borers. You TIP can use neem extracts to control the first two pests. The best ▾ strategy for dealing with vine borers is to time plantings so that Grow them up instead of out the vines are mature enough to withstand the damage. Despite my best efforts, I’ve still had trouble with the squash When you have a small amount of space, growing pumpkins is usually out of the question. But that doesn’t have vine borer. This critter wreaks havoc by attacking the plant at to be the case. Pumpkins are vines that you can train the base of the stem, within 2 inches of the ground. It literally to grow vertically. In my urban garden, I use a chain-link bores a hole into a stem and deposits one or more eggs inside. fence for support. Throughout the growing season, I train The eggs hatch within 7 to 10 days. Once hatched, the borer Give them space to ramble. A single pumpkin vine can the vines to grow up and through the fence. The tendrils spread up to 30 feet, so be sure to provide plants with plenty larva eats the soft inner tissue of the plant stem, effectively also help, by wrapping around the wire fence and support- huck Lockhart. of room to grow (above). Wait until all the vines have died stopping the flow of nutrients and moisture from the roots to C wooden spatula to paste the goop on (from the ground up before picking pumpkins from your patch (below).

ing the plant as it grows. The best types of pumpkins to Krista Hicks Benson, p. 73 (lime, blood elissa Lucas, p. 73 (wood ashes); Steve Aitken, (greensand); grow vertically are smaller varieties, like ‘Jack Be Little’, a the leaves. Usually the first thing gardeners notice is that the about 6 inches), then I wrap the foil around it. I secure the

tiny, flat, 8-ounce pumpkin, or ‘New England Pie’, a 4-to- plant is wilted beyond hope. llustration: shield with a loose twist tie. If you consistently have problems 5-pound sweet pumpkin perfect for pies. Once the larva matures, it crawls out of the stem, burrows with vine borers, then applying nematodes in the spring is —Patti Moreno into the ground, and metamorphoses into a pupa. The pupa a good idea. matures and emerges as a flying adult, seeks out a mate, and Once you’ve seen to the basics and have taken care to keep begins the cycle again. Depending on what zone you live in, pests under control, all that’s left to do is harvest. You must there may be two cycles, but most gardeners in northern areas be patient and wait until fall, after the vines have been killed . Jemmott, p. 75 (bottom). I ing up seed germination when seeds are sown directly in the have to face only one generation. M by frost and the stems are dry and shrunken. Pumpkins picked ground. The increased warmth of the soil also encourages The initial infestation is revealed by a tiny pile of what looks before they are mature will be “green” and won’t store well. vigorous root growth. While this is still a sound practice, there like sawdust at the base of the plant. Keep an eye on your Likewise, be careful not to break the stem off the pumpkin is another option: using plastic mulch with or without a row plants, and if you notice this damage, you can surgically remove because that too will affect the length of time you’ll be able to

cover. Both hills and plastic mulch increase the soil tempera- the larvae by slicing the stem lengthwise and plucking the little pp. 70-71; M ther photos: PeToo67/www.dreamstime.com, store it. ture in the root zone. The floating row cover provides warmth beasties out with tweezers. Wrap the stem with breathable After I harvest my pumpkins, I wash them with mild soapy and uniform growing conditions as well as protection from adhesive tape (from your first-aid kit), and the plant should water and rinse them with a mild bleach solution: 1 cup chlo-

most flying insect pests. heal and continue to grow. O Vassallo. arc rine bleach to 5 gallons cool water. The final rinse helps inhibit Combining black-plastic mulch with row covers gives you a As I mentioned earlier, floating row covers will protect mold and other fungal growth while the pumpkins are being good jump on the season. Lay drip irrigation under the plas- pumpkins (unless larvae hatch out under the row cover), but stored for later use. When you get ready to use a pumpkin, be tic, because pumpkins like to be watered deeply. The plastic you have to pay close attention to pollination. My homemade careful when cutting it open—and don’t forget to clean and eliminates the need to weed. When the danger of frost is gone, alternative to borers is to glue a strip of aluminum foil around toast the seeds. They are scrumptious. however, remove the row cover to allow the bees to pollinate the stem before I transplant the seedlings. My “glue” is a mix- your crop. ture of pressed garlic, cayenne, and boiled molasses. I use a William Brown, a former market gardener, lives north of Indianapolis. meal, and bonemeal); bak/www.dreamstime.com, p. 75 (top); Janet bak/www.dreamstime.com, meal, and bonemeal); Photos, except where noted: M Photos, except where

74 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 75 RECIPES

SUNSET SOUP SUGAR & SPICE PUMPKIN PIE by Janet M. Jemmott by Melissa Clark SERVES SIX. 2 Tbs. butter SERVES EIGHT TO TEN. Blind-bake the piecrust: Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 400°F. Transfer the piecrust into a chilled pie plate, line ½ cup chopped shallots or 1 leek, Piecrust for 9-inch pie plate it with parchment, and fill it with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until chopped 2 cups pumpkin purée the sides have just set and look dry, 16 to 20 minutes (lift the parchment 6 to 8 carrots (about a pound), 2 large eggs to check). peeled and chopped 1 large egg yolk Remove the weights and parchment, and bake until the edges are ¼ tsp. kosher salt 1 cup heavy cream light golden and the bottom is pale and completely dry, about 5 minutes. 1 tsp. curry powder 1 Tbs. brandy If the dough starts to bubble while baking, gently push the bubbles down ½ cup white wine ¾ cup lightly packed light brown sugar with the back of a spoon. Let the piecrust cool completely on a wire rack 3 cups vegetable broth 1 tsp. ground ginger before filling. 2 cups pumpkin purée Make the filling: Heat the oven to 325°F. In a large bowl, whisk the 1 tsp. freshly ground cinnamon stick Salt and pepper pumpkin purée, eggs, egg yolk, cream, and brandy. In a small bowl, mix (or 1½ tsp. preground cinnamon) Crème fraîche for garnish ½ tsp. table salt the brown sugar, ginger, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, pepper, and cloves. Whisk the sugar mixture into the pumpkin mixture. 1⁄8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg In a heavy-bottomed pan, melt Pour the filling into the cooled piecrust. Bake until the pie is set around the butter and add the shallots and 1⁄8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper the outside but still slightly wet and jiggly in the center, about 1 hour. The carrots. Sprinkle with ¼ tsp. kosher Pinch freshly ground cloves (or 1⁄8 tsp. filling will continue to set as it cools. Let the pie cool completely on a wire salt, stir, and cover the pan. Cook preground cloves) rack, and then refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving. over low heat for 10 minutes. Uncover the shallots and carrots, turn the heat up to medium, and sauté until the vegetables brown, about 5 minutes. Add the curry powder, then deglaze the shallot-carrot mixture with the wine. Add the vegetable broth, and bring to a boil. Lower the soup to a simmer, and cook for 30 minutes, partly covered. Remove the pan from the heat, and cool the soup slightly. Scoop out the solids, along with some liquid, and purée in a blender or food processor until very smooth. Return the vegetable purée to the pan, and add the pumpkin purée. Stir well, and add salt and pepper if needed. Garnish with crème fraîche, and serve.

76 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 77 Season extenders can be simple. These cold frames are made out of recycled hemlock and polycarbonate, and are ventilated with pitchforks and wood. The cloches are made out of plastic, and the deer protection is a scrap of concrete-reinforcing mesh. EXTENDING THE GROWING SEASON Proper plant protection means that gardeners anywhere can harvest during fall and winter

BY NIKI JABBOUR

f I had a dollar for every time someone your region and the days to maturity for each has said, “It’s too cold to grow vegetables crop you plant. The Old Farmer’s Almanac I in winter,” I could buy myself a heated lists frost dates for most parts of the country. greenhouse. The truth is that even people in And days to maturity will be listed in the seed northern regions—like Nova Scotia, where catalog or on the packet. This information is I live—can have a fall and winter garden with- important because the growth of most plants out the added expense of a heated structure. comes to a standstill when day length drops Late-fall and winter gardens are also low main- below 10 hours. As a result, it is important to tenance; there is no need to water, weed, or be sure that crops are at the right stage of fertilize from December through March. Har- maturity when they have less light. vesting is the only “chore,” and with more than To ensure that winter crops have enough 30 types of cold-hardy vegetables and herbs in time to grow and reach a harvestable size, our winter garden, even the kids get excited I add an extra week or two to the maturity about pulling a rainbow of carrots from a cold date for the selected edible. ‘Winterbor’ kale, frame in January. The key to success is simple: for example, is an extremely cold-tolerant Use the right season extenders to protect hybrid. It is ready to harvest as a baby crop plants from harsh and inclement weather. about 60 days after seeding and after 80 days for a mature plant. If I want a mature winter Know your frost date and the days crop of ‘Winterbor’, I need to take 80 days, to plant maturity tack on an extra week to account for the No matter what season extender you use, shorter days, and count backward from my there are two important things to remember first hard-frost date to determine when to seed when planting fall and winter edibles: the it. (For examples of when to seed other crops, approximate date of the first hard frost in see the chart on p. 81.)

78 FINE GARDENING FINEGARDENING.COM 79 Season extenders protect crops from inclement weather Season extenders stretch the growing season by weeks or months. These four examples afford Plant the right crops at the right time gardeners extra protection for times when nature isn’t especially cooperative. Here are some of my favorite vegetables and herbs for late fall and winter. I’ve paired them with season extenders, like cold frames and mini hoops, but don’t be afraid to experiment with other shelters to see what works best in your garden.

Type of crop Method of planting Approximate planting date from Season-extender suggestions 1. Cloches shelter plants in autumn first hard frost in fall Cloches have been used for centuries by clever gardeners to extend a harvest. Arugula Direct-sow 4 to 6 weeks before fall frost Cold frame, or open garden covered with a mini Also known as hot caps, cloches are miniature greenhouses placed over plants tunnel in late autumn to protect them from inclement weather. I use cloches in two ways: to shield crops for one or two days from imminent frost, hail, or snow; and as incubators Carrots Direct-sow 10 to 14 weeks before fall frost Cold frame, or open garden covered with a 1-foot to shelter early-planted or tender crops for up to six weeks. depth of straw or leaf mulch in late autumn In the case of imminent bad weather, any type of container can be an effec- Celeriac Transplant Plant in spring (this is a long- Open garden covered with a 1-foot depth of straw tive short-term cloche; a bucket or a large jar work well. Because this protection season crop) or leaf mulch in late autumn won’t be on the plants for more than a day or two, it doesn’t need to be translu- Chervil Direct-sow/transplant 8 to 10 weeks before fall frost Cold frame cent. For longer protection, the cloche needs to be made of a clear material, like Claytonia Direct-sow 8 weeks before fall frost Cold frame glass or plastic, to allow good light transmission. Cloches should be removed or vented on mild days (when temperatures exceed 40°F/4°C) to protect plants Endive Direct-sow/transplant 8 to 12 weeks before fall frost Cold frame, or open garden covered with a mini from overheating. An unvented cloche will trap heat and humidity, and if left tunnel in late autumn; cloches for individual heads on for too long in warm weather, it will scorch the plant beneath it. Kale Direct-sow/transplant 8 to 12 weeks before fall frost Cold frame, or open garden covered with a mini tunnel in late autumn; large cloches for individual plants

Leeks Transplant 12 to 16 weeks before fall frost Open garden covered with a 1-foot depth of straw or leaf mulch in late autumn Mache Direct-sow 6 to 8 weeks before fall frost Cold frame

Mizuna/ Direct-sow 6 to 8 weeks before fall frost Cold frame, or open garden covered with a mini 2. Row covers insulate newly seeded Mustard tunnel in late autumn or transplanted crops Parsley Transplant Dig up mature curly parsley, and Cold frame, or open garden covered with a mini Row covers are gauzy materials that are extremely effec- move it to cold frame in late summer tunnel in late autumn tive at insulating newly seeded or transplanted veggies Parsnips Direct-sow 16 to 18 weeks before fall frost Open garden covered with a 1-foot depth of straw from light frost, cold weather, and pests like birds or deer. or leaf mulch in late autumn In spring and early autumn, light-to-medium-weight fab- Spinach Direct-sow 6 to 8 weeks before fall frost Cold frame, or open garden covered with a mini rics can be laid directly on top of crops. As fall morphs tunnel in late autumn into winter, I switch to heavyweight covers and float them Transplant Plant any time (it is a perennial) Cold frame on mini hoops, along with a layer of greenhouse plastic Thyme to shelter cold-season edibles such as kale, Swiss chard, leeks, and spinach. Heavyweight row covers offer more insulation than light- or medium-weight covers, but they don’t allow as much light to pass through. A heavyweight material placed directly on vegetables that are actively growing in spring or autumn could delay or damage the crops. I therefore save heavyweight covers for winter, when my vegetables are hibernating. Parsley Carrots Spinach Leeks

FINEGARDENING.COM 81 4. Mini hoop tunnels protect plants in all seasons Mini hoop tunnels are workhorses in the garden, sheltering tender small 3. Cold frames tomatoes, peppers, and melons in spring and tall create beneﬁcial kales, collards, Italian microclimates parsley, and leeks in late If I could have only one autumn and winter. We season extender, it would make our mini hoops from be a cold frame—a bottom- ½-inch PVC (polyvinyl less box with a translucent chloride) pipe bent over top that captures solar 10-foot-long and 4-foot- energy. Cold frames create wide beds and slipped a micro climate around over 1-foot-long rebar plants, sheltering them from stakes that are pounded bad weather and cold tem- into the ground. peratures. They should be The covering on a mini sited so that the sloped top hoop tunnel is determined faces south for maximum by the season and the crop light exposure. Our 6-foot- to be protected. In cold long and 3-foot-wide cold weather, a sheet of green- frames are crafted from house plastic provides the 2-inch-wide local hemlock greatest insulation, but in boards, and sunk into the the milder climate of late ground for added insulation. spring and early autumn, a The translucent tops are light fabric usually suffices. made out of Lexan, a twin- In summer, mini hoop tun- wall polycarbonate material nels can be covered with that is effective for insulat- a length of shade cloth to ing but still permits over 85 create a shelter for cool- percent light transmission. season salad greens, which As with mini hoop tun- bolt quickly when grown nels (see facing page), cold directly under the hot sun. frames need to be vented in In spring and fall, be sure spring and fall, and brushed to vent your mini hoop off after a snowstorm in tunnels by opening the winter. To vent, use thick ends when outside temper- anielle Sherry, p. 80 (center) and p. 81 (leeks); Brittany Leandra, p. 81 (parsley); Scott Phillips, p. 81 (carrots, spinach). 81 (parsley); Scott Phillips, p. (carrots, (center) and p. 81 (leeks); Brittany Leandra, p. 80 Sherry, anielle branches, a shovel, or a D atures rise above 40°F/4°C. pitchfork to prop up the Crops that are grown in top. I keep my cold frames too warm an environment, closed during winter, except ther photos: especially winter veg- for the few minutes a day etables, will grow soft and that I harvest. be more susceptible to cold e Sciose. O damage. Crops must also be kept away from the cover of mini hoop tunnels during winter or the foliage will freeze upon contact. Remember to brush snow off your structure promptly after a storm, using a broom or plastic shovel, or it may collapse.

Niki Jabbour is a food gardener, a radio host, and the author of The Year-Round Vegetable Gardener. She lives near Halifax, Nova Scotia, where she and her family harvest vegetables throughout winter. Photos, except where noted: Joseph D Photos, except where

FINEGARDENING.COM 83 2

1. ‘Green Bouquet’ basil 2. ‘Crimson King’ basil 3. ‘Sweet Genovese’ basil

CONDITIONS: Full sun; well- drained soil

—Designed by the staff of the Chicago Botanic garden in glencoe, illinois

Photo by Danielle Sherry