Just our cup of tea: London’s love for Fairtrade food

Sustainable inte w r 20 fish swaps 1 Free 1 magazine Is your detox

is s ue 30 ethical?

Help London’s bees ❋ Food deserts ten years on ❋ Organic coffee Tuck in! 4 Bulletin 6 Around Town Say hello to the 7 Shop Window Melrose and Morgan 8 To Market Sutton Farmersʼ Market Jellied 8 What’s in season 11 Feature Food deserts Feature he phrase “never waste a Looking beyond health to another crucial 12 Fairtrade in London good crisis” seems to be on issue: fish stocks. We have found many 14 Local to London many lips of late, echoing companies who support the idea of a Providence Organics T the arched eyebrow level playing field for buying standards Feature of disbelief as revelation is heaped – something that can only be produced 15 Sustainable Fish City upon revelation about what the new by legislation. In the meantime, the 16 Feature Is your detox ethical? government can come up with next. Olympics has created a catering Capital Growth While I can only really pass comment standard banning all ‘at risk’ species (as 19 on the schemes dreamed up that affect identified by the Marine Conservation 19 Growing Calendar food, it would appear that there is a Society) from games catering. Building Reader’s Kitchen slightly absurd trend emerging which on the momentum from these Olympic 20  will wind the clock back from years commitments, and the support of the Jemima Roberts of progress. This is no more evident Mayor of London’s bodies (the police, 21 London Food Link than in the health sector. We have seen fire brigade and Transport for London), front page news of the government’s we’re backing a new campaign – Westminster Artisans decision to leave nutrition policy to Sustainable Fish City. But many more 22 What’s on the companies that are arguably most could do worse than using the rule of to blame for the state of the country’s thumb: ‘avoiding the worst, promoting diets. Far from following ʻthe polluter the best, and improving the rest’ to all paysʼ principle, it would appear it pays aspects of London’s fish consumption to be a polluter – if you aren’t causing (See page 15). The Jellied Eel is a quarterly magazine published by Wouldn’t it be great if the enough damage to the nation’s health, But I don’t want to leave you in London Food Link and BIG Media. It has a circulation then you don’t get a seat around the the ʻslough of despondʼ – there is of 20,000 and is distributed to all London Food table! Joining the companies on these plenty to celebrate, as shown in the Link members, as well as food retailers, restaurants and entertainment venues. Disclaimer: inclusion ‘responsibility deal’ networks are a stories over the following pages. None best local shops delivered? of information in the Jellied Eel does not imply the handful of health experts, many of more so than Fairtrade Fortnight, product or service is endorsed by London Food Link whom already admit they don’t think which arrives at the end of February or Sustain. We do not condone the consumption of Well now they do. At www.hubbub.co.uk you can shop online at the finest independent this approach will work. (See page 12), bringing with it a jellied , as many eel stocks are currently very low. shops at no extra cost and receive your order all in one delivery. Visit our website, I hope you don’t think me a lazy welcome supply of chocolate, tea and Editor Ben Reynolds liberal, as taking a swipe at government coffee (and obviously much more) use the postcode-checker to see if we deliver in your area yet, then start shopping. Deputy Editor Kelly Parsons policy has never been easier. But to help cheer up our early 2011. BIG Media Director Jamie Ford voluntary measures, the sorts of which Art direction and design Clare Hill Hubbub helps you get hold of, and cook with, the very best quality seasonal fruit are being prescribed by Andrew Lansley Ben Contributors Matt Atkinson, Michael Dees, and veg, meat, bread, fish, and more. Plus you’ll save time, avoid over-enthusiastic who has set up the networks, do not Editor Jennifer Gaskin, Clare Hill, Georgie Knight, work. Has traffic light labelling been traffic wardens and support independent shops without even leaving your home. Tom Moggach, Anna Sbuttoni and Michael Wale adopted by all companies? No. Are Cover Andrew Ethuru of Michimkuru tea You can’t shop much more local than that. all supermarkets abiding by the code company and Cafédirect, by Julian Winslow of conduct for fair dealing with their Editorial enquiries We’ll also give you FREE DELIVERY on your first order whenYour localyou quote shops ‘the delivered Jellied Eel’. suppliers? No. Have all junk food companies stopped promoting their [email protected] or 020 7837 1228 Order before midday and we can deliver to you the same day. products to children? No. We need www.londonfoodlink.org to make it clear to government that Distribution enquiries to stock the Jellied Eel www.hubbub.co.uk handing over food and health policy [email protected] or 020 7837 1228 to big business will not do. Please sign Advertising and sponsorship enquiries Who do we deliver from in your area? the petition ʻUK Health Department: [email protected] or phone 07900 496 979 La Fromagerie * Frank Godfrey Family Butcher Stop Seeking Advice from Junk Food Producersʼ at http://chn.ge/bHIFBL Printed by Earth Natural Foods * The Barnsbury Grocer and watch this space for more action. Stones the Printers Saponara Italian Delicatessen * Fin & Photo: Pamela Troni Paul A Young Fine Chocolates * Ottolenghi www.hubbub.co.uk Fairtrade British Shopping Interactive Media Shopping basket Association Awards Beans mean fair The Fairtrade mark has been popping Sustainable fish basket up on some unexpected places recently London lager – like baked beans and bean sprouts survey – thanks to a new Fairtrade standard for pulses. The white kidney and mung We trawled around London’s sandwich sellers to find the most ethical Local food delivery beans behind these new arrivals come offerings. The joint winners were Marks & Spencer and the Co-op for service Hubbub from a group of farmers living in one their excellent fish buying policies and communication to customers. beat Tesco to win of China’s poorest regions in Inner For the full report on our survey, including the worst offenders, please Mongolia, and premiums from the sales see www.thejelliedeel.org top prize in the Retail, Services will be invested in local schools. www.seriouslyorganic.co.uk & Utilities category Cafédirect São Tomé instant hot chocolate São Tomé, A new market Meantime’s new lager uses local also known as ingredients (Kentish hops, East-Anglian Chocolate Island, for food vouchers barley and London water). Produced is steeped in Photo: Robin. Creative Commons http://bit.ly/hW386j in their new purpose-built brewery in cocoa farming Healthy Start vouchers – which provide Greenwich, London Lager is cold matured history. It has milk, fresh fruit and vegetables, and infant (ie left alone!) for six weeks before it an unparalleled formula, to pregnant women and families gets sent to shops and pubs. You can find reputation for with young children that are on certain the beer at a number of outlets around growing some of benefits – are now accepted by London London, but for the full range, go to its the most prized Farmers’ Markets. Stallholders signed Bulletin pub The Greenwich Union. cocoa beans on s up to the scheme so far are: Millets Fruit; w www.greenwichunion.com earth, due to its Bury Lane Farm Shop; Ted’s Veg; Wild ne ood www.meantimebeers.com location on the Country Organics; Bramble Tye Fruit Farm inable f A spread of the latest susta equator, rich and Manor Farm Shop. Check online at Rootsy delights soils and the www.lfm.org.uk to see which markets perfect balance they appear at. Described as ‘rootsy, healing, refreshing Food and flavourful with a kick to it!’, of temperature BBC waste tips Roots Ginger Beer is the creation of found there, along with the humidity Food & ❋ Tottenham-based vegan food and drink and forest shade. Only four ingredients Farming ❋ Plan your portions – and no added nasties! ensure you donʼt overdo manufacturer, Mighty Veg Delights. Awards Made with fresh ginger and freshly www.cafedirect.co.uk A lesson in good food 2 010 your dinner by using this handy tool: squeezed lemon juice, and a sprinkling The London School of Economics (LSE) was one of 22 organisations www.lovefoodhatewaste. of Fairtrade sugar, it also makes a great First Fairtrade product recognised at the recent Good Food on the Public Plate awards, run by com/everyday mixer for cocktails. from Afghanistan For details on where to buy go to Sustain and the Greater London Authority. The awards celebrate those _perfect_portions Afghan raisins have a reputation non-profit organisations working to make sure the meals they serve are www.mightyvegdelights.com Joint runner up ❋❋ Check stored fruit for being among the best anywhere not only tasty and value for money, but good for the environment, and and Tropical Wholefoods has been winners have made one or more significant changes. LSE, for example, Best Drinks Producer and veg like apples or Spice Caravan falafel squashes to make sure working with international NGO converted to using only free range eggs and composts food waste. Catering Sipsmith, London The falafel made by Spice Caravan, theyʼre not off – to use Mercy Corps and the Parwan Raisin manager Liz Thomas said: “In circumstances where there is constant a refugee catering enterprise based in up quickly juice them Producer Co-operative, based near pressure on cost reduction it would be easy to ignore sustainability, Joint runner up North London, might be inspired by or make soup and freeze Kabul, to bring them to the UK. Because welfare and ethical sourcing. However we are committed to improving Best Food Market the flavours of Morocco, Egypt, Sudan of security in the region, Fairtrade the lot of workers and in the food chain and reducing negative Growing Communities, ❋❋ Mash up overripe and Eritrea, but they are now made auditors haven’t been able to carry environmental impact.” Other winners included Sutton Council, now London bananas and use in with locally-grown dried field beans out physical inspections, but thanks serving school children fish from certified sustainable sources, and cakes, muffins or from the UK! Try them at Queen’s Park to a compromise on the certification Imperial College, which buys seasonal vegetables from a farm in Kent. www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/ batter farmers’ market on the first and third process, we won’t miss out on these For a full report see www.thejelliedeel.org Sunday of the month. succulent, high-quality dried fruit. features/ffa/2010/finalists Maresa Bossano [email protected] www.tropicalwholefoods.com

4 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 5 SHOp around town window Get into what’s happening in your area Tufnell Park balcony garden provides £669 of food N19 Can you grow £500 worth of food without a garden or an allotment? That’s the target North London resident Mark People’s kitchen opens Ridsdill Smith set himself in May last year. And by 8 October he’d already beaten it by £169 – all from his 9 x 6 foot north- for business WC1 west facing balcony and six window sills. “Few people realise Melrose and Morgan The People’s Supermarket co-operative in Lamb’s Conduit just how much you can grow in a tiny space” said Mark. Street now features a kitchen, turning food from the store “My balcony and window sills produced the equivalent of which would otherwise go to waste, into ready-prepared 100 bags of salad, 120 packets of herbs and 92 punnets of tomatoes – as well as runner beans, courgettes, mange meals. A broken bag of lentils becomes a spicy dahl, bruised After establishing a grocery/deli in Primrose apples are used for apple , and damaged oranges tout, carrots, potatoes, blueberries and strawberries.” He equal an orange cake. Lasagnes, curries, quiches, salads added: “A big advantage of balcony growing is that you can Hill in 2004, owners Nick Selby and Ian James and soups are prepared with no additives or flavouring, from keep a constant eye on your crops and harvest your food five recently opened a sister shop in Hampstead. minutes before you eat. It doesn’t get fresher than that!” Even recipes supplied by the supermarket’s founder, chef and Clare Hill took a peek… sustainability pioneer Arthur Potts Dawson. if you have only a few windowsills, you can still grow several hundred pounds of food a year. Mark estimates that over According to Nick, the idea behind Melrose and Morgan is www.thepeoplessupermarket.org £200 of food came from his four south-facing window sills. “to recreate the feel of a farmers’ market seven days a week.” www.verticalveg.org.uk Albeit a small and stylish one – with artfully mismatched Victorian tiles and shelves, and doors hewn from recycled cheeseboards and vintage school desks. Taking it to the streets again Like the original store in Gloucester Avenue, NW1, the new shop, just across from Hampstead tube, sells a range City / SW1 tottenham Broadwater’s Harmony of larder ingredients such as oils, and preserves, tufnell as well as bread, milk, packaged meat, eggs, cheeses and Street Kitchen will be taking its New York-style food truck on Park stroud green Gardens N17 the road again in early 2011, with plans to pop up in the City, seasonal fruit to buy loose. The other side of their offering and also around Sloane Square. In the first venture of its kind Bloomsbury At the end of last year, the public decided to award £50,000 is pre-prepared food, for eating now or dinner later: think in the UK, last October saw Jun Tanaka, executive chef at to Harmony Gardens, a Haringey community gardening doorstep egg and cress , cottage pie, hearty soups and chicken curry. A central table heaves with freshly baked Pearl Restaurant, and Mark Jankel, chef and founder of The city project, as part of The People’s Millions – a partnership Food Initiative, take to the streets of London in an Airstream chelsea between the BIG Lottery Fund and ITV. The project, run by cakes, tarts, pastries and biscuits – all prepared onsite or in kitchen, cooking up British seasonal food for Londoners charity Back2Earth, works with the local community to provide Melrose and Morgan’s production kitchen in Chalk Farm. to eat on the go, with all produce bought directly from flourishing, local food-growing community gardens, on the Deliveries are made with the company’s electric van. sustainable and organic UK farms and producers. empty ground around the Broadwater Farm Community A commitment to quality and sustainable and local richmond Centre. The project also aims to provide: green gyms and food is reflected in the standard of produce. All the Follow @streetkitchen on twitter for updates community vegetable growing, with raised beds for easy meat is free-range and organic, the same goes for eggs access; a cordoned fruit tree tunnel walkway; a productive, and milk. And at Melrose and Morgan, there really is no organic children’s nature garden; beekeeping with beehives; cod – their contains pollack and organic farmed a polytunnel for propagation; and a potting shed/eco building. salmon instead of the over-fished national favourite. Familiar names like Neal’s Yard Cheeses, Monmouth Chickens in (Grey) Court TW10 www.back2earth.org.uk Coffee and Chegworth Valley (apples and juices) are Grey Court School in Ham, Richmond, is one step closer to also stocked. Regent’s Park honey is proudly on sale its dream of setting up a school farm. With the help of local too – a case of measuring ‘food yards’ not ‘food miles’. campaigning group School Food Matters, it reached the Nick says that the opening of the original store received finals of ITV’s People’s Millions competition, winning funding quite a lot of press, as one of a number of establishments to keep free range hens in secure enclosures on the school Next stage in the cycle N4 blazing a trail for British, local, seasonal food six years ago. grounds, and set up an egg-selling enterprise. As well as Station House Community Café is the first of a series of cafés “We were so committed to ‘Britishness’ we refused to sell helping other local schools rear chickens, Grey Court will to be launched by food-recycling project FoodCycle. The café croissants, and made our own Chelsea buns instead.” But have a ‘hen hotel’ in the holidays for all local school chickens, uses FoodCycle’s model of combining young volunteers and Melrose and Morgan also prides itself on listening to its cared for by the part-time poultry keeper, who will also teach surplus food to create nutritious meals and positive social customers, and he concedes that a balance always needs to be students and locals about chicken keeping. Local families can change in the community, and is open every Friday lunchtime, struck: “Chicken, leek and prune stew eventually gave way also get involved, by boarding some chickens in the holidays. at MIND, Station House, 73c Stapleton Hall Road, N4 3QF. to coq au vin, and we do now sell croissants and things like chorizo. We couldn’t be all about boiled beef and carrots.” www.schoolfoodmatters.com www.foodcycle.org.uk Oriel Hall, Oriel Place NW3 1QN www.melroseandmorgan.com Photo: Terrie Schweitzer. Creative Commons http://bit.ly/gDEvBr

6 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 7 Planet Organic 210x270 Advert:Layout 1 29/9/10 11:34 Page 1

To market what’s in Food markets around London january season Sutton Crab A surprising starter for dinner with Town Square friends. Buy a whole crab and honour farmers’ market and Millennium Gardens the crustacean with pride of place on the we deliver... High Street, Sutton SM1 1DU kitchen table. Roll up your sleeves, then 9.30am–1.30pm get cracking with a hammer and skewer. Fourth Saturday of every month Look for pot-caught crabs over 14cms your wide, and buy whole crabs rather than 20% OFF www.ecolocal.org.uk/markets crab claws (claws are often removed from live crabs, with the clawless crabs then put back in the sea to starve). first order from Also avoid egg-bearing females to give them a chance to breed; our online store crabs tend to spawn in the winter months. Also in season Fresh food deliveries within Greater beetroot, celeriac, , London including fruit & veg, bread, Jerusalem JA Keen & Sonʼs poultry stall artichokes, leeks, red dairy and fresh meat. cabbage, rock , very month a hoard of local to fried potato crisps: “People (choose dive Nationwide and International farmers and producers descends come to the market to buy British caught), swede. delivery of health & bodycare on the leafy South London and for the freshness of the food,” he february borough of Sutton, bearing says pointing to his display of fruit and E Forced Rhubarb More pricey than products and groceries gn up fresh local produce, including fruit and veg veg. “Those salads were picked yesterday si outdoor rhubarb, with tender stalks er from Perry Court and Bessborough Farms, afternoon and bagged last night – that’s slett of vivid pink. Roast until tender in a Free delivery over £30 new free range pork, chicken, game from JA almost as good as growing your own. o our moderate oven, adding a generous t Keen in Dorking, plus eggs, cheese, jams, Supermarkets want a seven-day shelf life.” ore sprinkle of brown for m chutneys, bread, cakes and confectionery line Featured stallholder sugar, lemon on and much more. ❋ zest, and and The market is accredited by FARMA, J A Keen & Son ffers squeeze o the co-operative of farmers and producers Dorking, Surrey of orange ions selling on a local scale, and is organised mot This is a family-run business situated on juice. pro by local environmental charity EcoLocal. Etherley Farm at the foot of Leith Hill. It’s a Also in People visit to buy home-produced food: National Trust tenant farm, managed within season “It’s always excellent quality and it’s good to the Countryside Stewardship Scheme to Brussels support local growers and producers,” says a preserve the natural habitat and beauty of tops and

customer buying a jar of jam. “We’re aware Photo: Garry Knight. Creative Commons http://bit.ly/dJfMnF the surrounding countryside. It specialises sprouts, of global warming and we don’t like our in producing poultry: “chickens and ducks cabbage, food trekked around the world. If you have are available all year round, whilst turkeys kale, , a pot of local jam you’ll taste the difference.” and geese are produced seasonally for onions, pollack, purple They were right: the jam not only tasted Christmas, Easter and Thanksgiving,” says sprouting broccoli, rock oysters. delicious but ‘plum, apple and elderflower’ Charlie Keen. “We have a small farm shop is a flavour combination unlikely to be found where all of our products can be bought, march on the shelves of the local supermarket. including free range chicken and duck eggs Chicory Often paired with nuts and blue Enter discount code AUTUMN for a 20% discount It was produced by Kush Cuisine, and a range of homemade preserves, and a cheese, but your best bet is in the oven. off your first order, or your next order if you are a run by husband and wife team Ian and campsite, perfectly situated for a relaxing Cut in half lengthways, dab with butter returning customer. Valid until end Dec 2010. Sadie Jennings. Ian is a chef with over 20 weekend in the country.” The latest addition and honey, season and then roast until years’ experience: “I originally created to the farm is the reinstatement of an golden. , thyme, and hazlenuts our range of preserves for my family and old orchard. Young trees were planted in are optional extras. friends to enjoy,” he says. “Now we’re January 2009, with the intention of having Also in season producing chutneys, jams and , fruit for sale in the coming years. cauliflower, kohlrabi, outdoor rhubarb, sauces, spice rubs and marinades.” http://etherleyfarm.co.uk radishes, wild garlic. www.planetorganic.com Tony from Perry Court Farm took great By Michael Dees Tom Moggach pleasure in showing off his line of air- dried apple crisps, a healthy alternative WESTBOURNE GROVE MUSWELL HILL 42 Westbourne Grove, London W2 5SH 111-117 Muswell Hill Road, London N10 3HS BLOOMSBURY ISLINGTON 22 Torrington Place, London WC1E 7HJ 64 Essex Road, London N1 8LR 8 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org BowlBowl over over poverty poverty holdhold a a SuperSuper Soup Soup l lunchunch FridayFriday 25 25 March March 2011 2011

London may be one of the world’s taking away leading foodie destinations, but behind the façade, various projects are working hard to tackle food health inequality access problems that still blight the city. By Kelly Parsons

espite being only a few miles apart, if you travel And where better to start than the local corner shop? Often east on the Jubilee line from Westminster to located at heart of deprived areas, local shops can have a huge Canning Town, each of the tube stops represents influence on how people eat. But how often have you popped D a year of life expectancy lost. That’s eight years into the corner store for some veg, only to be faced with a couple in less than 20 minutes. And when you alight in the borough of of shrivelled carrots and some overripe bananas? Not exactly Newham, youʼll be surrounded by over 250 hot food takeaway inspiring if you are looking for something to cook for dinner. shops, a third of which are fried-chicken sellers. Buywell and Eatwell, two strands of the Well It was statistics like these that prompted a London project, have been helping retailers and Jean-Blaise Hall / Getty Images / Getty Hall Jean-Blaise Jean-Blaise Hall / Getty Images / Getty Hall Jean-Blaise flood of research and proposals on ‘food deserts’ community members to up their game, linking together and ‘food access’ ten years ago, as policymakers theneed for good food with the right suppliers. attempted to address some of the capital’s food One of Buywell’s aims is to connect shops with providers Ten years inequalities. But a decade later, London – one of affordable produce, and encourage them to sell more Photo: Christian Aid Christian Photo: Photo: Christian Aid Christian Photo: after the of the worldʼs top gastronomic cities, with local, seasonal fruit and vegetables. It has worked with issue was its thriving sustainable food movement and stores in neighbourhoods all over London, with each retailer highlighted Fairtrade accolades – is still home to some of receiving personalised business support, fresh produce some projects the worst health deprivation in the country. training, Change4Life marketing materials and a launch The Health Minister’s recently announced event to help them sell more fresh produce. And Eatwell have made plan to overhaul our public health policy is more has complemented the retail work by introducing cooking a genuine evidence that, despite so many projects aimed clubs, and community feast events to get more people difference, at improving access to healthy food, the same in the community cooking and eating fresh produce. RegisterRegister NOW NOW to to make make your your bowl bowl count count but food issues persist, and education alone isn’t having The current economic climate means that, now more than deserts are a big enough impact. Government initiatives like ever, the ability of communities to buy healthy affordable ToTo register, register, visit visit www.christianaid.org.uk/ www.christianaid.org.uk/ 5-a-day, Change4Life, and the Food Standard food is under pressure. Ten years since the issues of food super-soup-lunch or text ‘soup’ to 88802* still a problem Agency’s salt and fat campaigns may have raised access were brought to our attention, some great projects have super-soup-lunch or text ‘soup’ to 88802* in London public awareness, but they haven’t changed the made a genuine difference to people’s lives. But ultimately, UK registered charity no. 1105851 Company no. 5171525 Scotland charity no. SC039150 NI charity no. XR94639 Company no. UK registered charity no. 1105851 Company no. 5171525 Scotland charity no. SC039150 NI charity no. XR94639 Company no. NI059154 ROI charity no. CHY 6998 Company no. 426928 The Christian Aid name and logo are trademarks of Christian Aid; fact that in certain parts of the city, nine per cent the problems in these food deserts are ‘systemic’. Rather NI059154 ROI charity no. CHY 6998 Company no. 426928 The Christian Aid name and logo are trademarks of Christian Aid; Poverty Over is a trademark of Christian Aid. © Christian Aid December 2010. Poverty Over is a trademark of Christian Aid. © Christian Aid December 2010. of men and six per cent of women still eat no fruit and veg at all. than solving the problem, the work to date has highlighted Tackling health inequalities used to mean community the scale and difficulty of these challenges, and reinforces CompleteComplete and and return return this this form form to: to: Super Super Soup Soup Lunch, Lunch, Christian Christian Aid, Aid, Freepost, Freepost, London London SE1 SE1 7YY 7YY food co-ops being parachuted into areas of London by public the need for government to take this issue more seriously. health departments. But more recently there’s been a shift www.sustainweb.org/buywell Mr/Mrs/Ms/Miss/other Forename Mr/Mrs/Ms/Miss/other Forename I would expect 1-10 10-25 25-50 50-plus towards more sustainable solutions to food access problems. www.london.gov.uk/welllondon/projects/eatwell I would expect 1-10 10-25 25-50 50-plus Surname Address guests to attend my Super Soup Lunch Surname Address guests to attend my Super Soup Lunch

I will be holding my Super Soup Lunch in my home I will be holding my Super Soup Lunch in my home Postcode at my workplace at my school at my church Postcode at my workplace at my school at my church in my local community don’t know yet in my local community don’t know yet Email Email other (please specify) other (please specify) Will your Super Soup Lunch be open for the public to attend? Yes No Will your Super Soup Lunch be open for the public to attend? Yes No Would you be happy for Christian Aid to call you? Yes No Would you be happy for Christian Aid to call you? Yes No A011239

If yes, my daytime telephone number is A011239 If yes, my daytime telephone number is Photos: www.londonshopfronts.com Christian Aid will not pass your details on to any other organisation. If you already receive information from Christian Aid we will continue to sendChristian it, unless Aid will you not tell pass us otherwise your details by onwriting to any to other us at organisation.Supporter Relations, If you already PO BOX receive 100, Londoninformation SE1 from7RT. ChristianIf you are Aidnew we to willChristian continue Aid,to please send it, tick unless if you you do tellnot us want otherwise to receive by writinginformation to us from at Supporter us Relations, PO BOX 100, London SE1 7RT. If you are new to Christian The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 11 Aid, please tick if you do not want to receive information from us

Untitled-1 1 20/12/2010 12:24 Untitled-1 1 20/12/2010 12:24 fairtrade borough soon-to-be fairtrade borough enfield Kelly Parsons talks to campaigners, café owners, caterers, non-fairtrade borough What you can do councillors and even a visiting Kenyan tea grower, about Though Fairtrade has become entrenched in London’s their experiences of Fairtrade food in the city barnet eating habits, as always, there’s more to be done. redbridge Twelve boroughs haven’t yet made the Fairtrade grade, haringey waltham so it’s important to keep the pressure up to ensure they forest havering irst of all, let’s give to revive the group in time for harrow do, says Harrow’s Nana. “Residents must tell their ourselves a pat on Fairtrade Fortnight 2011, says lead hackney barking & councillors to lead by example,” she says. the back: London is council member on the Harrow 4 dagenham brent camden “If London is a Fairtrade city then all boroughs officially the world’s Fairtrade borough campaign, Nana newham hillingdon 6 should be certified.” largest Fairtrade city. Twenty- Asante. “Today, everybody wants The forthcoming Olympics also offer an opportunity 5 one out of its 33 boroughs have to be ethical, and pays lip service 3 to increase Fairtrade commitments. “The Olympic ealing achieved certified status. It’s also to justice, but not everyone really 2 greenwich committee has already shown willingness to set higher home to some of the movement’s believes in it or takes action,” she bexley standards on ethical products, and to be receptive to most successful organisations and says, adding that she’s heartened 1 8 public pressure to go further,” says Fairtrade London’s companies, including Twin-trading, by the way people in the borough 7 Malcolm Clark. “That’s how commitments were secured the pioneering organisation initially have embraced the idea. A hounslow lewisham wandsworth for all tea, coffee, sugar, bananas and chocolate snacks funded by Ken Livingstone’s Greater campaign has been underway richmond upon used in official Olympic catering to be Fairtrade. London Council 25 years ago, to encourage locals to include thames Now, we want to encourage caterers in and around Divine Chocolate, Cafédirect, and Fairtrade items in their shopping, the sites to buy Fairtrade, and make sure there is no merton bromley now Liberation nuts. That’s not to and local businesses to convert. kingston backtracking from these original commitments.” mention the many individuals and A borough’s Fairtrade status upon groups around the city promoting depends on: the council passing thames croydon Sign up to the Fairtrade London mailing list at fairly traded foods. Over 1,000 a resolution supporting the cause sutton www.fairtradelondon.org.uk retailers and 600 catering outlets and agreeing to serve products in 1 hammersmith & fulham 5 city of lOndon 2 kensington & chelsea 6 tower hamlets 3 westminster 7 lambeth 4 islington 8 southwark

in the capital now sell a range meetings, offices and canteens; a of products carrying the famous range of products being available in Fairtrade mark, including iconic shops and served in local cafés and Fairtrade Foundations London institutions like the British restaurants; and workplaces and Library, the London Eye and the community organisations supporting Houses of Parliament. Fairtrade and using products. But as with any relationship, Tiny price to pay there’s a real danger of us getting complacent, particularly in light One business helping Enfield the other end of the size spectrum, they have to take action like this now profits, as Cafédirect does. of the current squeeze on council borough qualify is My Coffee Stop, a says Giles Burton, hospitality or they’ll lag behind competitors. But, he warns, Londoners budgets and consumer purses, café on the platform of Enfield Chase manager for Avenance, caterer for And as a contract caterer, when we shouldn’t assume their work is done says Fairtrade London’s campaign a staff restaurant, 12 kitchens and do sales tenders we are increasingly – his plans to get other producers station. Co-owner Karen Mercer In some boroughs like Barnet, Wandsworth co-ordinator Malcolm Clark. “No hadn’t even heard of Fairtrade 37 meeting and dining rooms at asked about our approach to involved rely on us keeping up borough has yet had its Fairtrade until she happened across a leaflet and Westminster there is grassroots support, City law firm Baker & Mackenzie. corporate social responsibility.” our support, through plenty of but the council is the main sticking point to status revoked,” says Malcolm, “but three months before opening her “We have gone from one Fairtrade Keep drinking quality Fairtrade tea and coffee- the challenge is to ensure councils new venture last year. She was sold becoming Fairtrade-certified product two years ago to a range drinking. “There is an impression don’t withdraw support for financial on the concept instantly, she says, of house wines, fruit juices, teas, But perhaps the most convincing that Fairtrade is a success and has reasons. There are also some and has since become one of the Malcolm Clark, Fairtrade London coffee, bananas, sugar sachets and argument comes from tea grower now done its job, but in fact our boroughs, like Barnet, Wandsworth borough’s most ardent Fairtrade more, and managing that takes Andrew Ethuru, board member of organisation is selling less than a and Westminster, where there supporters, sitting on its steering time,” he says, “but people are social enterprise Cafédirect, and couple of years ago, mainly because is grassroots support, but the group and putting on promotional an ethical approach is more about surprised to hear the products aren’t chairman of the Michimikuru tea of unscrupulous factories producing council is the main sticking point events for Fairtrade Fortnight. “You effort than money. “Finding products necessarily more expensive.” The company in Kenya, which became machine-picked bulk blended to becoming Fairtrade-certified.” wouldn’t believe how far people takes time, because there is no one coffee and tea don’t cost any more, Fairtrade-certified in 2007. “When teas in the name of Fairtrade.” Harrow council has been stuck will travel to support Fairtrade,” supplier with everything we need, neither do coffee beans used by I fly to London it makes me happy His advice: look beyond the label in Fairtrade limbo for years. says Karen. “We’re meant to be for but financially for each cup of coffee its internal branch of Starbucks, to see our tea being sold,” he says, and go by taste. If you like it, buy Three years ago local supporters commuters but people are so drawn the price difference is less than and its Fairtrade orange juice is “knowing the funds will be ploughed more. “I love drinking our tea, if persuaded it to pass a resolution in they visit us rather than the high 1p, which makes you realise what actually cheaper than non-Fairtrade back in to making better tea, by you have ten cups a day you will support of Fairtrade, but a change street, and I have one customer who a tiny price it is to pay to support equivalents it used in the past. improving our environmental practices be jumping up and down in good in administration resulted in less came all the way from Chingford Fairtrade.” “Large corporations aren’t silly,” and increasing quality controls,” health, but I can’t drink it all, so interest, and the steering group to try our tea!” And, she points out, Time, rather than cost, is also the he says when asked why the firm is though he is keen to point out that not I’m happy for the people of London folded. Now the council is keen the investment required to take biggest investment for businesses at embracing Fairtrade. “They know all Fairtrade organisations reinvest to buy and enjoy the rest!”

12 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 13 local to london Fins can only A taste of the Colombian mountains get better January saw the launch of the lands in West London Sustainable Fish City campaign, Michael Wale discovers how one man’s travels to the coastal which asks Londoners to take action to save fish stocks. Ben mountains of Colombia led to a speciality Fairtrade-certified Photos: Elizabeth Waight Reynolds finds out what it’s coffee being drunk across the capital Susta y? inable fish cit hoping to achieve and who’s hen James Deeble went back-packing around In his coffee quest, he got permission to visit the protected backing it South America in January last year he community of the Arhuaco Indians based in the Sierra ended up in Colombia, more particularly the Nevada. Historically, the indigenous farmers haven’t had an enry Dimbleby is one of is working on the Sustainable Fish northern Sierra Nevada mountain region. easy ride, James says, and over the years have had to deal W the co-founders of Leon City campaign, explains why this is What you can do It was a journey that led him to discover a group of unique with everything from battling with Spanish colonisers, to the Restaurants, which has what London needs right now: indigenous coffee farmers, and resulted in him bringing their Colombian drug war affecting their home. But the community 1 Change the fish you buy eight outlets around “Fish need our help. There is a real Fairtrade organic coffee back to London. has managed to maintain its traditions and farming practices H 2 Influence the fish that other people buy London. The restaurants have a buying danger that we could lose this precious He had already decided to start a business on his return. for hundreds of years. “Their organic coffee is grown in 3 Inspire others to join in! policy that takes into account flavour, natural resource from our oceans forever. “I wanted a company that combined my passion for coffee small farms, 1,300 metres above sea level, and harvested by quality, provenance and sustainability, We need to help fish, fishermen and with an interest in exciting cultures and the environment.” hand. All the coffee is Fairtrade-certified, and the additional Want to find out how to do this? with a public commitment that states: ‘Any marine environments by insisting on he reflects. “Colombia is the biggest Arabica coffee premium helps the community continue with its traditional Go to www.sustainablefishcity.net fish that we use is from sustainable shoals’. buying only from sustainable producer in the world, and there’s a lot of good coffees farming practices, and supports the families.” James explains. In practice, this means that the Leon species, stocks and fishing methods. there I could have imported, but I wanted a coffee that also The Arhuaco are an interesting group with their own menu avoids using endangered species of The advice on sustainable fish is quite told a story about where it was grown and its farmers.” language and spiritual beliefs, which focus on the protection Give over-exploited old favourites white fish, and features more sustainable simple: avoid the worst, promote the of the Sierra Nevada, which they call ‘mother earth’. They do a rest by trying some of these species such as mackerel, an oily fish that best and improve the rest. Sustainable this through maintaining their environment with small-scale delicious alternatives: is also better for health. Like many food Fish City can show everyone how.” sustainable agriculture that doesn’t damage the land. They outlets and caterers across the city – big The campaign has a range of high- Old Alternatives have never used chemical fertilisers or pesticides, and the and small, selling luxury and everyday profile targets against which it will judge favourite water used in the farming process comes from local mountain foods – it has shown that sustainable its success, and aims for all London ❋❋ springs, so all the coffee they grow is certified organic. Haddock Coley – often sold fish is achievable and affordable. councils to serve sustainable fish. James’s new company, Providence Organics, based in as saithe Henry is also a founder of the At its launch in January, the ❋❋ Richmond, West London, imports the green coffee beans MSC-certified haddock Sustainable Restaurant Association, campaign already had a number of directly from Colombia, and they are locally roasted. from Scotland or Norway which helps other restaurants and influential supporters including the “We are different to a lot of coffee companies in that we Cod ❋❋Line-caught pollack caterers to adopt health and sustainability National Trust, Sodexo, Greenwich import the green beans ourselves,” he says, “which can from Cornwall standards. As the association explains, University, The School of Oriental sometimes be difficult because of the work involved in ❋❋Coley ‘Sustainability is good for business and and African Studies, Goldsmiths importing goods into the UK, but it was important for me ❋❋MSC-certified the planet. Sustainable fish, recycled University, Imperial University and to meet the farmers and buy the coffee from the source.” Alaskan Pollock waste, energy efficiency: itʼs what the Greater London Authority family While he is happy to talk about the different issues ❋❋MSC-certified cod from more and more customers want’. (Metropolitan Police, the London Fire surrounding exporting and importing of the coffee, it is the Arctic, Atlantic and Leon is not alone in calling for action. Brigade and Transport for London), as clearly the social side that really enthuses and rewards Pacific oceans Concern for fish stocks has been rising, well as a veritable shoal of smaller food James. He is proud for his coffee to be certified organic ❋❋ with a peak of activity in London last companies and individual supporters. Plaice Flounder, dab or lemon and Fairtrade, and is in regular contact with the farmers to year, off the back of the End of the Line The Jellied Eel is backing its call for sole – caught by otter keep updated on their community and current coffee crops. documentary and the Evening Standard’s common sense and we implore you to trawl or seine net “I can really see how Fairtrade works to help the growers ❋❋ campaign to get Blue Fin off the join this vital campaign in whatever MSC-certified plaice involved. I’ve witnessed first-hand the difficulties farmers ❋❋ menu (though alas, high-end restaurant way you can (see box), whether you’re MSC-certified Dover sole face in poor countries, and know the additional premium Nobu is still serving it!). While Jamie a punter, company food buyer, or ❋❋ they receive can really make a difference to their lives.” Skate Starry, spotted Oliver and a platter of other celeb work for an organisation that caters for and cuckoo rays To read more about the story behind Providence Organics chefs are gearing up to tackle the meetings or events. We’re kicking off Halibut ❋❋Red, grey or tub gurnard and for sales visit www.providenceorganics.co.uk. You plight of fish, London has a campaign in this issue by looking at the state of ❋❋MSC-certified Pacific can also find James selling his Fairtrade organic coffee of its own, aiming to become the first the city’s sandwiches (see page three), halibut at various events in and around the capital. capital to rid itself of unsustainable and will be keeping you up to speed fish. Sustain’s Kath Dalmeny, who on the campaign as it progresses.

14 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 15 Michael Dees investigates the sustainability, and science, behind our annual January ‘cleanse’

Gourmet experiences how ethical from field to fork Food Safari gives you behind-the-scenes is your detox? access to some of Suffolk’s best loved food

f you overdid it with the mince such as kale, spinach and purple of diet and exercise, and to buy and drink producers. We specialise in www.foodsafari.co.uk pies and sherry this festive sprouting broccoli on offer in the early Fairtrade products from further Field to Fork days: farm walks, fishing trips, [email protected] season, you might find yourself months. Kale contains vitamins A, C afield, will have long lasting benefits I tempted by the promises of the and E, minerals including manganese, regardless of the choices we made and wild food forays; cookery and butchery many detox programmes on offer. But iron, calcium and potassium and at last yearʼs staff Christmas party. workshops; and fabulous feasts. before you part with your hard-earned phytochemicals (chemicals that It could also potentially save 01728 621380 cash, take a moment to consider how naturally occur in plants) linked wasting anything from tens to ethical, or even how necessary, your to cancer prevention. Fruit such as hundreds of pounds, on detox systems detox might be. apples and pears are also available. which promise cleansing and toxin For starters, much of the fruit or Apples contain useful amounts of fibre, flushing. As Dr Ben Goldacre, full-time veg suggested – such as strawberries vitamin C and potassium and guercetin, doctor and author of Bad Science, or salads – is likely be out of season a flavonoid (another type of naturally warns: “Anyone who talks confidently in the UK at this time of year, in occurring plant chemical) that may and authoritatively about detox is which case they may have either have help protect against heart disease. misleading you, and you should be travelled thousands of miles, or been And don’t forget the customary very cautious about all the other things grown in heated polytunnels – both herbal tea. Many teas recommended they say too, as itʼs quite likely they are of which use large amounts for their antioxidant properties are based in fantasy, rather than evidence.” of energy which bumps up available from Fairtrade brands, He maintains that detox systems your ecological footprint. so you can guarantee the are nothing but a marketing invention: Jellied Eel Better to go for root veg producer a fair deal “The whole notion of detox is foolish,” like carrots, parsnips and at the same time as he says. “Itʼs a marketing term rather Advertise in London’s beetroot: all available at treating yourself than a medical one, and it distracts the moment. Beetroot is to a refreshing people from the real things they leading ethical food high in vitamins such drink. can do to improve their health.” as betacarotene and A new Eating more fruit and veg, and drinks magazine folic acid, and some year’s getting some exercise, drinking people claim that resolution less, and losing weight are things OUR BREAD Reach 60,000 readers regularly eating to eat local that improve your long-term health beetroot is good fresh fruit over a lifetime. Doing them for KNEADS 100 stockists for the liver and and veg, three magical days, or six days, or even helps reduce as part two weeks, is worse than useless, across London the incidence of a long- because you are falsely reassured that of heart disease. term plan youʼre doing something useful.” For a media pack There are also lots contact Jamie Ford next Photos: Elizabeth Waight YOU of green vegetables [email protected] issue Want to be a part of the rise of the national or phone 07900 496 979 A movement that is fighting for better bread in Britain? p r i l www.realbreadcampaign.org 2011

16 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org You can now buy all your fresh food straight from local farms capital growth

Reader Offer! 10% off your Christmas Turkey Enter coupon code: JellTurkey Give bees a chance (London’s) Michael Dees explains that helping our troubled bee population isnʼt just the responsibility of those living in the countryside. Photo: Steve Benbow

s the winter frost casts a silver blanket over Londonʼs urban apiaries, the bees are huddled Capital Bee competition together in clusters that keep them warm at As part of the Capital Bee campaign, a competition to win 50 hives A a constant 35ºC. The queens are probably and training is being run. The competition opened on 16 December already laying the eggs that will more than double the size 2010 and final date for completed applications is 5pm on Friday of their colonies by spring, ready for the season of foraging 28 January 2011. The winners will receive a beehive, protective which pollinates one in three mouthfuls of the food we eat. clothing, basic tools, training, mentoring and support to enable Our bees are under a lot of pressure with the global their community to set up beekeeping by spring 2012. population in dramatic decline and, as Albert Einstein is www.capitalgrowth.org/bee_competition believed to have said, if the bee disappeared then man would only have four years of life left. No more bees, no more GROWING CALENDAR pollination, no more plants, no more animals, no man. Help is at hand. Capital Bee, part of the Capital Growth January campaign to create 2,012 new growing spaces, aims to ❋❋ Order your seed for the season ahead. Jot down a rough planting promote community bee-keeping in London and campaigns plan, then order online in one batch to save on packaging and for a bee-friendly city. In December last year, a bee summit delivery costs. at the Southbank Centre brought together beekeepers, organisations and projects to debate what is happening ❋❋ Try forcing rhubarb. Choose an established plant, clear weeds, An alternative to the supermarket for North Londoners: to the honey bee and what Londoners can do about it. then cover with a container. Harvest in five weeks, tugging off “Thereʼs lots of things people can do to help bees the stems. Order fresh, seasonal produce direct from local and other pollinators in London,” says Pamela Brunton, farmers and growers. february Capital Bee campaign officer at Sustain. “We can make ❋❋ Take this last, precious opportunity before the season kicks off to sure we give them all the food they need and somewhere Collect your order from our Islington depot at 11 finish overdue projects. Order in seed potatoes, especially ‘first safe to live, by planting wild flowers, flowering herbs earlies’. These can be chitted and planted out around mid-March, Ronalds Road N5 1XL or have it delivered to your and fruit trees, even in pots on the windowsill; and by weather permitting. avoiding using too much concrete and chemicals in your door. march garden. Buying bee-friendly food, like organic, or making ❋❋ Start off chillies, as they require a long growing season. The seed a bee hotel out of old logs, can help wild bees too.” Wonderful mix of organic and free range produce. needs extra heat to germinate – around 21°C, so use a heated Gardening organically is also important, as chemicals can A range of meat, fish, dairy and veggies that you propagator or snug spot such as an airing cupboard, then grow sometimes have an adverse effect on bees and other wildlife. just don’t get through most high street shops. them in your sunniest spot. Urban environments, like London, are particularly ❋❋ For an early crop of strawberries, cover your plants towards the good for bees because of the variety of forage available to them year-round in parks and gardens, and lots of people 40 participating local farmers and food producers, end of the month. with fleece, bell or recycled bottle cloches. When the plants are flowering, remove the cloches during the are becoming interested in city beekeeping. If you reckon ensuring low food miles, and sustainably produced day to promote pollination. keeping bees is for you, start by contacting your local food. association and going along to one of their beginnersʼ Tom Moggach of City Leaf* courses before you invest in your hives and equipment. www.farm-direct.com No obligatory boxes, no commitments, no minimum * City Leaf provides food-growing training to groups and schools. For more information, call 020 7485 9262 or see www.cityleaf.co.uk order value: what you want, when you want! 0845 519 2415

The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 19 Reader’s kitchen London food link Featured London s an overseas travel journalist and reviewer for A many years, Julie Bundy always enjoyed visiting Food Link member farmers’ markets and food fairs. Back in London, she was equally taken by the capital’s pop up restaurants Westminster and markets, which further inspired her to develop baking her love of good food into a business. The result is Artisans her company Westminster Artisans, which runs two markets: Maida Hill in W9 and Tachbrook Street in Pimlico SW1. Maida Hill, running since late 2009, is a regular street market with local and regional traders, and an occasional farmers’ market on a Saturday. Julie was instrumental in developing the market and the popular pop-up coffee shop, Maida Hill Café Gallery, both of which have helped increase visitors to the area. Tachbrook Street (pictured, with Julie third from left) was relaunched in October 2010, and is managed by Westminster Artisans on behalf of Westminster Council. The market is a mix of established traders and modern new food stalls that Clare Hill enjoys a scented spin around the kitchen have been a hit with local residents and businesses. Julie’s market food epiphanies include Masih of keen baker and organic enthusiast Jemima Roberts  Did you know that as a trader with Westminster ❋ Masala’s take away Indian food (another London Artisans you’re not permitted to swear? Food Link member) and London traiteur (catering he aroma of freshly baked cookies in Jemima’s ideas for what to do with beetroot.” ʻBarlotto’ – a barley- business) Madame Gautier’s ‘La Boucherie’. kitchen is a giveaway. “This looks like a set up,” based version of risotto – with beetroot and goat’s cheese, she says almost apologetically. “It’s not like this and roasted beetroot borscht, are two recent creations. every Saturday, but I really do love baking.” At the moment Jemima is cooking just for herself, On the bench, plump hazelnut and ginger as her partner is away at sea. “If anything, I’m guilty of cookies vie for space with trays of crunchy over-catering sometimes, I’m used to cooking for lots of Membership form London Food Link granola flavoured with molasses and cinnamon. Later on, people. But it means I always have something homemade London Food Link she reveals cupboards filled with jars of homemade pear to share when I see friends, or I freeze the surplus.” Name and chilli, and beetroot and horseradish chutneys. It seems Jemima has left virtually no stone unturned Love the Jellied Eel? Business/organisation Jemima says she buys virtually everything organic, and when it comes to sustainable eating, while enjoying Join us! Join London Food Link and have a copy delivered to your door likes making most meals from scratch. But surely most an interesting range of food that continues to inspire Address every quarter. London Food Link is a network of organisations people don’t have the time and/or funds to do this? She is her. But she points out: “An important thing missing and individuals: farmers and food writers, caterers and bemused by the question: “Yes it can take time. But I choose for me is land to grow food, there’s no outdoor space Postcode community food projects, restaurants and reviewers. We work to spend time on that rather than something else – in short, here at the flat. I’m planning to return to Wales and on increasing the availability of sustainable food in London Tel what else would I rather be doing? I work from home; I love put down my roots there, I’d really like some land.” through training, advice and campaigning. The Jellied Eel is cooking and approach it as a pleasure more than a chore.” From the sea, to the big smoke and then to the Email a free magazine we publish to raise awareness of ethical food On the subject of cost, she is resolute about looking at the countryside, the next issues in London and London’s growing local and sustainable bigger picture: “Organic food more expensive? The reality is chapter in Jemima’s Your website/Facebook/Twitter address food movement. We are a charity. more complicated: often non-organic is subsidised – taxpayers food adventures is Scorecard nearly funding agrochemical-dependent agriculture, for example.” certain to be well High scores for buying Member benefits markets It’s helpful that Jemima lives a stone’s throw from Stoke catered-for. everything from farmers’ ❋❋ get our magazine the Jellied Eel with London news and Please write a brief summary of who you are/your interest in local food and for Newington Farmers’ Market, promoted as UK’s only all- and independent shops, articles delivered to your door organic farmers’ market. This also means usually not having to organic. Jemima gets a free buying ❋❋ make useful London food contacts choose between ‘organic’ and ‘local’. The rest of her groceries goody bag from the Slight deductions for sometimes ❋ are from nearby Mother Earth, a whole food shop in Albion ❋ find out what’s going on around London with our regular splendid ladies at Happy Road. She also uses its fruit bag and veg box scheme. over-catering. email updates including local food news and funding info Kitchen as a thank you £20 – individual or not-for-profit community project Jemima’s sustainable food knowledge, and fervour, “I couldn’t live without... occasional ❋❋ invites and discounted entry to our regular London Food Link  for letting us through an for their £40 – charity, social enterprise or company with less than have undoubtedly been shaped by her stint at sea as Alphonso mango.” Renowned soirées and affiliated training/events – great for networking her door. they £100,000 annual turnover an assistant chef for Greenpeace, experience working superior flavour and fragrance, and accessing expertise in India and  for food co-ops and an idyllic-sounding childhood If you would like us to are ripened on the tree £70 – public body, or company with £100,000–£1,000,000 so are How to join in rural Wales, with a veggie patch, fruit-laden consider putting your have a short shelf life, annual turnover Online: Go to www.sustainweb.org/londonfoodlink/membership, hedgerows, and a jersey cow called Bronwen. kitchen under likely to be air-freighted. £100 – company with more than £1,000,000 annual turnover When she’s not baking treats, everyday meals are another our microscope, complete the form and send it to [email protected], then chance to experiment with ingredients. “I’m the sort of please contact click the ‘make a payment’ link. Post: Complete this form and Rate If the fee is not, for whatever reason, a fair reflection of your ability to send it with a cheque made payable to ‘Sustain’, to 94 White Lion pay membership, then please get in touch. If you are a community project, person who could wake up in the middle of the night with [email protected] food business or local authority, contact [email protected] for more Street, London N1 9PF. information on how you can be involved with London Food Link.

20 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org 21 what’s on Capital Growth A.B.Seed Seeds glorious seeds education competition Family fun food-growing activities 17 January London-wide February 23, 25 & 27 half-term Carshalton Challenges educational institutions – from pre-school to Planting potatoes and seeds, all ages welcome. colleges and universities – to get growing to be in with Advance booking needed. www.ecolocal.org.uk a chance of winning some fantastic prizes. London Food Link network do www.capitalgrowth.org/schools/abseed 23 February 4.30–7.30pm FARM:shop, Dalston Capital Growth funding round Gathering of folks interested in good food. Hear from some 17 January London-wide of the most exciting ethical food enterprises and initiatives Launch of funding round for new growing spaces. Deadline in the capital. £15 (£10 for LFL members). for applications: 14 February. www.capitalgrowth.org [email protected] www.londonfoodlink.org Get your hands dirty – grow food Fairtrade Fortnight 26 January 11–2pm Spitalfields City Farm 28 February–13 March Food-growing course held most weeks The theme for this year is ‘show off your label’, so tell the www.spitalfieldscityfarm.org/what-s-on world about your cake made extra special by using Fairtrade Grow, pick, cook & eat garden course sugar and spice, your most tempting bottle of wine, your comfiest pants! www.fairtradelondon.org.uk 29 January 2–3pm every Saturday Kingʼs Cross Learn basic gardening skills at the Calthorpe Project.Courses Youth enterprise event for parents and children. www.calthorpeproject.org.uk March, date and location TBC City Shoots : sprouting sustainable www.capitalgrowth.org action in schools Real Food Festival Markets 8 February City Hall 4–6 February Southbank, 25–27 March Brent Cross An event promoting sustainable food in primary schools, More details at www.realfoodfestival.com PRODUCE providing an opportunity for teachers, head teachers, parent helpers and community organisations to learn more about food growing. Registration essential. http://cityshoots.wordpress.com jellied eel starstockist MARKET Unpackaged oused in a former dairy, H Unpackaged retains an authentic, traditional and local charm, despite THE BEST LOCAL, SEASONAL AND having opened only three years ago. wastage Over that time, owner Catherine (because you can SUSTAINABLY PRODUCED FOOD Conway has transformed it into a choose how much you want), and very forward-thinking and unusual reducing the material being sent to Sourced Market brings the best from local and artisan producers to the corner shop. landfill. You can, of course, stock The clue to its singularity is in the up on the Jellied Eel here too – no heart of St Pancras International. Open seven days a week, bursting at the name – everything is sold without packaging, just good stuff inside! wrapping, bulky foam trays or http://beunpackaged.com seams with a fantastic range of carefully sourced produce. unnecessary stuff: just pure, organic and Fairtrade produce. The Jellied Eel would like to thank Customers are encouraged to bring Unpackaged and its staff for their along their own containers to fill continued support. with a variety of whole foods, fresh produce, chutneys and preserves, Are you a shop, restaurant, café, trader environmentally-friendly household or community centre with sustainable cleaning products, herbs, spices, and food at its heart that wants to help even wine! The Unpackaged model us spread the word around London? tackles several sustainability issues Get in touch with thejelliedeel@ head on – reducing CO2 emissions by sustainweb.org about stocking the w w w . SOURCEDMARKET . COM using less packaging, reducing food Jellied Eel.

22 The Jellied Eel www.thejelliedeel.org is isnot not about about making making big profitsprofits for for shareholders shareholders but butcreating creating value for its members. value for its members.