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with walkers and cyclists making good use 7 of the towpath that terminates at the on the edge of the Atlantic. 6 Crinan is home to a remnant of the great 4 3 Atlantic Oakwood, which supports much birdlife and offers views across the Sound 5 2 and the unspoilt raised bog of the Moine 1 Mhor. A steep climb from Crinan also takes you to the Iron Age Castle Dounie. Inland to the north, Kilmartin Glen holds one of the biggest conglomerations of prehistoric and historic artifacts in , including burial cairns, rock carvings, stone circles and standing stones. is bursting with history and Also found here is the little hill of Dunadd, nowhere is this more obvious than on the thought by many to be the birthplace of journey north from . modern Scotland. Whether it is artifacts from the Bronze This part of Mid Argyll is home to many and Iron Ages or the remains of Argyll’s idyllic little islands, including and industrial past, history is everywhere. , two of the Slate Islands named Cutting a course between Lochgilphead after the dominant slate industry of the on Fyne and Crinan on the coast is 18th and 19th centuries. Although the the Crinan , originally devised to save quarries now lie unused, they offer a boats the long and arduous journey fascinating window into the past and are around the Mull of to the Western home to much wildlife, while the coastal Isles. Today, pleasurecraft ply the route, scenery found here is hard to match.

36 Crinan from Crinan Oakwoods Crinan, Kilmartin and the Slate Islands 1 towpath 38 6 Magical Dunadd 48 Take the most enjoyable shortcut in Step back in time on a short but Scotland by following the canal which memorable jaunt up a little hill with links and Loch Crinan a big place in the nation’s history

2 The Dunardry Trail 40 7 Kilmartin Glen 50 Soak up one of the most glorious Burial cairns, standing stones and views on the west coast from the stone circles provide clues to the easily-scaled An Cruach Mor above history of this amazing glen, the most the Crinan Canal unusual theme park in Scotland

3 Crinan and the Atlantic Oakwood 42 8 and Cullipool 52 Explore a perfect habitat for a variety of Hop over the water to explore Luing, wildlife on a short walk through an an island of great natural beauty with ancient Atlantic woodland a fascinating slate-quarrying heritage

4 Castle Dounie from Crinan 44 9 An Easdale round 54 Enjoy the sweeping view over the An unforgettable vision of the islands Sound of Jura from the site of an Iron is the reward for this short walk to Age fort on a hilltop south of Crinan the highest point on the smallest of Argyll’s Slate Islands 5 Rings of Achnabreac 46 Wander through history, looking out for the mysterious rock carvings on this easy stroll east of

37 X3 CRINAN, KILMARTIN AND THE SLATE ISLANDS

Crinan and the Atlantic Oakwood Distance 3km Time 1 hour 30 Crinan to the 12th-century Duntrune Terrain woodland paths, canal towpath Castle, thought to be the oldest Map OS Explorer 358 Access buses from continuously inhabited castle in Scotland. Lochgilphead to Crinan After 750m, with views of the peninsula of Crinan Ferry across the water to your left, Crinan Wood, a remnant of the Atlantic you come to the 19th-century Crinan Oakwood that once extended along much . of Europe’s Atlantic Coast, covers the Cross this bridge over the canal, steep hillside above Crinan. This route overlooked by a lovely cottage, and turn uses a short section of the canal towpath left onto a narrow road. After 20m, take a before climbing through the woodland to flight of rough stone steps on the right the high point of Dun Mor. and climb steeply into Crinan Wood. From Crinan Basin car park, take the As a result of the warm, moist gulf- path to the left of the basin to 15. stream climate, this ancient woodland Cross the Crinan Canal as it reaches its (which also includes hazel, ash, rowan, journey’s end, flowing into Loch Crinan elm, willow, holly and alder) is home to and out into the Sound of Jura. Follow a an array of lichens, mosses and ferns, path past the little Crinan Lighthouse and bluebells, blaeberries, foxgloves and then turn left onto the canal towpath at heather, with wildlife that includes red Lock 14, signposted for . squirrel, roe deer and 24 species of birds; Walk southeast along the north bank of redstart, wood warbler and pied flycatcher the canal, enjoying views across Loch being just a few of them. During the 18th 42 CRINAN AND THE ATLANTIC OAKWOOD

Loch Crinan

century, timber from Crinan was used for a range of industries, from manufacturing to shoemaking. After the path swings right, the gradient eases. The trail now meanders up through and continue to a narrow road. the woodland to a bench with a view Go right and walk downhill towards a across the Moine Mhor to Dunadd. red-roofed cottage but, just before you In a while, keep left at a waymarked reach this, bear left onto a path back into junction and continue on a gradual Crinan Wood. This undulates through the ascent, eventually emerging above the woodland to reach the best viewpoint yet, trees to reach the summit of Dun Mor and with an outlook that extends across sweeping views along the Crinan Canal Crinan and the Sound to Jura and , and the jagged Argyll coastline. the eye eventually resting on Mull’s Cross the summit to find a path mountainous profile. descending steeply back into woodland Bear right and drop steeply down the before curving right. It now drops more path back to the Crinan Canal at Lock 14. gradually across a little clearing (the small Do not cross the canal; instead turn left settlement of Kilmahumaig lies below to and follow a track the short distance back the left) to a crossroads. Go straight on to the car park. 43