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#1 2018 GOÛT DE GOODLe magazineTOURS gratiné de Tours Val de Your culinary guide for Tours Metropole in the

PASSEZ À TABLE ! La sélection des meilleurs restaurants

FOOD TRUCKER ALL ABOUT WINE RESTAURANTS MADE IN TOURS GOURMET CALENDAR

WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR WRITTEN JUST FOR YOU!

FOOD JOURNALISTS WRITERS

MassimoMassimo DellaDella PenaPena MargotMargot Besson Besson LydieLydie

Food journalist Food journalist Blogger

www.bienmangeraveclydie.com

WRITERS

Antoine & Léa Julie Alves Clémentine Chauveau

Bloggers Blogger Blogger food writer

www.antoineetlea.fr www.quandjuliepatisse.com www.commerces-de-bouche-a-oreille.com

Publication & editorial: Offi ce de Tourisme Tours Val de Loire - Conception : Adrien Gaubert - Anaïs Dutour Contribution : Tours Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, IEHCA, Ville de Tours, Tours Val de Loire, . Photo credits: Ville de Tours, Anaïs Dutour - SPL Tours Val de Loire Tourisme, Mercedes Tonin, Romain Gadais, Romain Amic-Desvaud, Clémentine Chauveau, Benjamin Dubuis, La Tourangelle, Ronan Rocher, La Maison du Mochi, Terre Exotique, Overways, Le Dago'bar, La Roche le Roy, Ulrike, CCCOD, Casse Cailloux, Pray, Court Circuit, ADT, Agence Kogito, l'Étape Gourmande, CIG37, Pom'Poire, Aida, Gaye, QG, Parfum Culture, Chloé Deroy, Pierre Sourzat, Pexels, Stevens Frémont - CDT , Domaine Bernard Baudry, Yves Plaisantin, La Deuvalière, Virginie Rivain, Cuisine d'Ana, Sébastien Andréi, Kubilaï, Cig. Printing : Imprimerie Graphival.This magazine is published with 15,000 copies. GASTRONOMY IS A HERITAGE

For almost twenty years, the European Institute for the History and Cultures of Food (IEHCA) has been advocating that EDITORIAL our food is a cultural heritage and has encouraged a better understanding of food cultures by the human sciences. The classifi cation of the French gastronomic meal as a UNESCO World Heritage, which we initiated, illustrates this ambition. And it is this ambition that now unites the town of Tours, its local area and its university. It is now embodied in a unique place, the Villa Rabelais, the fi rst cultural centre dedicated to gastronomy. But the support we give to academic research can only be done by sharing the scientifi c culture with the general public. This is a mission that is refl ected in particular by promoting gourmet resources in the Centre-Val de Loire and the Touraine regions. Taste of Tours fully responds to our vocation and we are happy to have been associated with the creation and design of this publication. We are committed to the dynamism of the gastronomic resources of our beautiful town because it is a living heritage, that is to say, in this case, carried by the producers, artisans, chefs and all those who love good food... It is essential to salute their wonderful work and make them known. Taste of Tours is a praiseworthy initiative for our region. This magazine off ers a new and enlightened summary of all those who contribute to the local gourmet life. It allows you to see and meet the women and men who preserve traditional expertise, as well as those - who are sometimes the same ones - who are innovating and inventing. Whether you’re a Touraine resident or a tourist browsing through these pages before strolling around the streets of the town and the local area, you’ll get a complete introduction to all the fl avours which are hidden in this charming corner of . Loïc Bienassis Head of Mission of the European Institute for the History and Cultures of Food

THE CHAIRMAN OF THE TOURS VAL DE LOIRE TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE

Welcome to Tours, located in the heart of Val-de-Loire, in France, where welcoming is a tradition and living well an art. We are pleased to open the doors of our town to show you the richness of our history, the beauty of our heritage and the landscapes that make our region famous. Thanks to these assets, Tours is positioned as the major tourist destination in the Centre Val-de-Loire region and attracts more and more visitors each year. THE ART OF LIVING WELL IS A STATE OF MIND They come here to discover the of living, which expresses itself through the diversity Tours, in the Loire Valley, is at the heart of a landscape classed as a UNESCO world heritage site, a place for of our terroir, the expertise of our artisan restaurateurs, the richness of our produce, our table living well, eating well, and drinking well. No wonder it’s considered to be a gourmet town. dressing, and the friendliness we experience in sharing meals. It is this that has seen the town awarded the UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy label. Famous as the birthplace of French writer and physician Rabelais, and formerly known as the “Jardins It seemed obvious to off er you, the visitor, a guide, allowing you to discover the best ofour de la France”, Touraine also boasts many gourmet specialities: cured meats ( and rillons, andouillettes sausages), poultry (the “géline” breed), foie gras, goats cheeses (of which fi ve varieties have the Appélation d’Origine gastronomy. Protégée certifi cation - Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine, Pouligny saint Pierre, Selles sur , Chavignol et Valençay), sweet In these pages, explore our ‘tasty morsels’, our recommendations and gourmet ideas, testimo- products (prunes, barley sugars, macaroons, Tours nougat, fouace, etc.), Loire Valley fi sh (eels, shad, pike, perch...) nials from winemakers, restaurateurs and many other professionals, delighted to share their garden produce, etc. Touraine is also a reputable wine-producing region with excellent whites (, Montlouis- passion with you! sur-Loire) and famous reds (, , Saint Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). To fi nd out more about our produce visit In the hope that this gourmet journey will live up to your expectations, making your stay unforget- www.touraineterroir.fr. This art of living, which clearly justifi es the label “International Town of Good Food”, manifests itself in the numerous ex- table, I hope you fi nd many beautiful discoveries! periences on off er that tantalise the taste buds: exploring wine cellars, Les Halles de Tours, tasting experiences, mee- tings, workshops, activities and art of living festivals, markets, unique picnics... and is present in all good-quality food. Christophe Bouchet Mayor of Tours First Vice President of the Tours Métropole Val-de-Loire, Delegate for Tourism Tours, International Town of Good Food in the Loire Valley

In 2013 the government established the network of International Towns/Cities of Good Food, duly awarding this status to , , -Rungis and Tours. The association, “Tours Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie en Val de Loire”, ensured that in 2015, Touraine and the Loire Valley would become a three-star destination for the culture of eating well and living well. More information available at www.toursvaldeloiregastronomie.fr Emmanuel Hervé Président Tours cité internationale de la gastronomie en Val de Loire CONTENTS

If you’d like to come through 08 | Tasty morsels 16 | The bis gourmands 17 | Portrait of a chef 20 | Cooking courses in Tours 21 | Chef’s recipes

Brunch in Tours 19 | Places to brunch Cafes and tea rooms

Food Trucker 22 | Selection of food trucks Perfect day for a picnic 23 | Great offers for a100% Loire Valley picnic

Finding your way around 25 | La Touraine Gourmande, C du Centre, Wine cellars of excellence, CIG, Michelin stars

All about wine 28 | Selection of wine bars 29 | A word from the wine trade

Made in Tours 30 | Focus on local produce 33 | Fishing in the Loire 34 | Our tasty shopping recommendations

Tasty curiosities 36 | The main meal, Gabare aperitif, Tour Aperitif, Ingrandes Farm 39 | The rillettes war Tours vs

Gourmet Activities 37 | Top 5 gourmet activities It’s from right here and over there 38 | It has our name it’s not from round here, It comes from somewhere else, but it’s here

Gourmet calendar 40 | The calendar

FIND OUR MAGAZINE IN WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR PLEASE BE SEATED PLEASE BE SEATED

Goût de Tours/Good Tours brings you a se- lection of the best restaurants in Tours and the surrounding area, independently tested by our team of food journalists.

From Michelin starred concept of great food restaurants to street is a moving feast not bistros, and cuisine just to be found in from all over the traditional restau- world, you can count rants. Street food on the chefs of Tou- stalls, brunch cafés, raine to off er a wide food workshops and range of high quality tapas bars are found local produce, with in increasing num- a warm welcome to bers within the area, match. much to the pleasure This list, however, ex- of food lovers every- tends to some of the where. more unusual places We hope that you will to eat, with a choice fi nd some fantastic of tea rooms, street dining experiences food stalls and wine as a result of “top bars also included. picks”... This is because the

6

WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR Massimo Della Pena et Margot Besson IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH

L’HÉDONISTE LES BARTAVELLES TASTY 16, RUE LAVOISIER 33, RUE COLBERT 37000 TOURS 37000 TOURS. +33 (0)2 47 05 20 40 +33 (0)2 47 61 14 07 www.lhedoniste-caviste.com www.bartavelles.fr

FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY L’Hédoniste Les Bartavelles FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY MORSELS 10:00am - 2:30pm 12:00 - 1:45pm 5:00pm - 9:45pm At the foot of the majestic Tours This restaurant is a springboard 7:15pm - 9:30pm , a restaurant where that has launched the new gener- PRICE ≈ €19 to €28 you can enjoy a bistro menu ation of Tours chefs. Currently, PRICE ≈ €28 to €49 that gives pride of place to it's the turn of Didier Renjard and often forgotten classics (pies, Ghislain Damaye to test the water. beef cheek...). A reference for The setting is elegant, the cuisine fi rst-class natural wines, it serves sought after and creative, the COLBERT DISTRICT live beverages too, which can presentation of the dish is very neat, also be enjoyed in the wine cellar. just like the service. A wine list to match any others.

LA PETITE CUISINE LE SHANTI SHANTI 45, RUE VOLTAIRE 107, RUE COLBERT BRETONNEAU 37000 TOURS 37000 TOURS. +33 (0)2 47 61 30 92 +33 (0)9 73 13 58 39

FROM MONDAY TO FRIDAY OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00 - 2:30pm La Petite Cuisine Le Shanti Shanti 8:30am - 2:00pm L’ARDOISE AU RENDEZ-VOUS 7:15pm - 9.15pm 4, RUE BERTHELOT DU BOTANIQUE THURSDAY A little treasure. Marie Paulay has A tranquil pause in this vegetari- 37000 TOURS. JARDIN BOTANIQUE 12:00 - 2:30pm moved just a few metres, to a more an cafe-canteen. Its name reveals PRICE ≈ €10 DE TOURS 7:00pm - 10:30pm spacious, brighter place. In the its ambiance: çanti (pronounced +33 (0)2 47 05 69 14 centre of the dining room, there is shanti) means tranquillity and http://www.restaurant-lardoisetours.com 37000 TOURS PRICE ≈ €16 to €20 always the table d'hôtes where the peace of the soul in Sanskrit. In the +33 (0)7 68 78 00 70 FROM MONDAY TO SATURDAY L’Ardoise Au rendez-vous du www.aurendezvousdubotanique.net residents of Tours come to appre- middle of the books, enjoy the thali 12:00 - 2:00pm ciate the simple, family and modern of the day, an assortment of clever- Chef Didier Darry has been delight- botanique SUNDAY cuisine. Nicely decorated, a few ly spiced dishes (salad, soup, lentil THURSDAY AND FRIDAY ing Tours residents for decades. His Although it is located a little away 2:00pm - 5:30pm more tables, or your can eat at the curry...), accompanied by a tea or 12:00 - 2:00pm latest off ering is discreet, the 90s from the town centre, the Tours counter, facing the piano. lassi (fermented milk drink). FROM 7:00pm decor may not be much to look at, botanical garden deserves a visit FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY but the locals continue to come and 9:00am - 5:30pm even if it’s only for this restaurant. PRICE ≈ €15 to €37 to eat well. The secret is in the home Richard and Anouk serve home cooking, a modest bistro-style that PRICE ≈ €8 cooking, based on fresh and sea- has come back into fashion (leek sonal produce, in a colourful and vinaigrette, rice pudding...). Booking welcoming setting. From a sandwich recommended. to a dessert, everything is carefully prepared. To eat in or to take away.

MAISON COLBERT LE SAINT-HONORÉ 26, RUE COLBERT 7, PLACE DES PETITES HALLES - GRAND MARCHÉ - VICTOIRE 37000 TOURS. BOUCHERIES +33 (0)2 47 05 99 81 37000 TOURS +33 (0)2 47 61 93 82 FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY www.lesainthonoretours.fr 12:00 - 1:30pm Maison Colbert Le Saint-Honoré LA MAISON DES VANNE 7:30pm - 9:30pm HALLES 26, RUE GEORGES L’Arôme used to be the place to be In the charming maze of streets FROM MONDAY TO FRIDAY 12:00 - 1:30pm 19, PLACE DES HALLES COURTELINE PRICE ≈ €15 to €36 for Tours residents. It has now got around the cathedral you can fi nd 7:15pm - 9:00pm 37000 TOURS. a new look and a new name, but one of the town's traditional restau- 37000 TOURS +33 (0)2 47 39 96 90 the good news is that the piano rants. In line with the seasons, PRICE ≈ €40 +33 (0)9 65 10 88 81 and front of house teams have the menu gives pride of place to www.maisondeshalles.com La Maison des Halles Vanne FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY remained the same. The cuisine has the French classics, with a touch FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY 12:00 - 2:00pm Just opposite Les Halles covered A great choice for lovers of Korean gained a new joie de vivre, bistro of modernity here and there. It is 12:00 - 2:00pm 7:00pm - 10:00pm dishes are made with fi nesse and a particularly good during the hunting 7:30pm - 10:30pm market, a place dedicated to good cuisine. The menu is short - a pinch of freedom, the food is great, season. Excellent wine list, with a quality meat. In addition to grilled good sign - and the fl avours PRICE ≈ €16 including vegetarian dishes. good range of Loire Valley vineyards. PRICE ≈ €20 to €28 cuts or perfectly cooked rib of beef, are authentic. And don’t worry there is a choice of other cooked if you don’t know much about dishes, including the traditional Korean cooking, it can all be beuchelle tourangelle and even... a explained to you. Try one of the vegetarian option! A beautiful wine fermented rice drinks from the list to be enjoyed. menu. A delightful, exotic experi- ence. 8 9 IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH

L’IDÉE HALL QG LE CAFÉ MARCEL LA DEUVALIÈRE 47, RUE DE LA VICTOIRE 19, PLACE DU 4, PLACE PLUMERAU 18, RUE DE LA 37000 TOURS. GRAND MARCHÉ 37000 TOURS 37000 TOURS +33 (0)9 81 16 92 29 37000 TOURS. +33 (0)2 47 32 04 20 +33 (0)2 47 64 01 57 +33 (0)2 47 61 49 29 www.lecafemarcel.com www.restaurant-ladeuvaliere.com/fr FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY 12:00 - 1:45pm L’idée Hall QG FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY Le Café Marcel La Deuvalière FROM MONDAY TO FRIDAY 7:00pm - 9:45pm 12:00 - 2:30pm 10:00am - 2:00am 12:00 - 1:30pm The hipster look of the chef and In the ‘Place du Monstre’, as the Tours In the heart of the Vieux Tours, Place A breath of fresh air has blown 7:00pm - 11:00pm 7:15pm - 9:30pm PRICE ≈ €22 to €27 sommelier suggested pastrami and residents call it, the QG has become SUNDAY Plumereau has a rhythm which through this Tours icon, located in natural wine, but that’s far from a landmark for new generation PRICE ≈ €32 10:00 - 6:00pm flows through it from morning to a beautiful 16th century building, a PRICE ≈ €18 to €34 reality. Here, not far from Les Halles, gastronomes. It has a direct supply night. The Café Marcel has adopted little away from the place Plumereau. they serve a fine and careful bistro of raw materials (including fish), PRICE ≈ €10 this rhythm and is open for service While keeping loyal to their French cuisine, accompanied by an excel- an informal atmosphere and a throughout the day and evening: roots, the dishes flirt with spices, lent selection of wines of a rather selection of interesting natural breakfast (brunch at the weekend, they mix sweet and savoury, they classic style. The delicious vegeta- wines. The dishes are delicious, rich of course), lunch, snack, aperitif, deconstruct. Attentive service. bles come from the family garden. and easy to eat, with a light touch. after dinner cocktails... A short and Short wine list, predominantly Loire A little treasure. careful menu, friendly service and Valley wines. modern decor.

LE COURT CIRCUIT LA BONNE ASSIETTE CHEZ ZEIN L’EMBELLIE 16, BIS PLACE DE LA VICTOIRE 75, RUE GEORGES 7, RUE DU COMMERCE 21, RUE DE LA MONNAIE 37000 TOURS COURTELINE 37000 TOURS 37000 TOURS 07 68 78 00 70 37000 TOURS +33 (0)9 83 71 08 21 +33 (0)9 54 61 64 43 courtcircuit-tours.fr +33 (0)2 47 37 04 86 http://chez-zein.com www.l’embellie-restaurant.fr

MONDAY Le Court Circuit La Bonne Assiette MONDAY OPEN EVERY DAY Chez Zein L’Embellie THURSDAY 12:00 - 3:00pm 12:00 - 2:00pm 12:00 - 3:00pm 7:00pm - 9:45pm A lively place, well rooted in its Tours has a large Portuguese 6:00pm -11:00pm Perhaps the best falafel in the In old Tours, in a setting of FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY region. Soups, salads and pies are community and this restaurant is FROM TUESDAY TO SUNDAY town? You can also try the stones and old beams, high- FROM SATURDAY TO MONDAY 12:00 - 10:00pm made from local farm produce; a bit of a landmark. Simple, popu- 12:00 - 2:00pm PRICE ≈ €20 hummus (chickpea puree), keftas lighted by the decoration. The 12:00 - 1:45pm beers, wines and soft drinks come lar cuisine, appreciated by families, 7:30pm - 11:00pm (meatballs), aubergine caviar style of cooking is modern, 7:00pm - 9:45pm PRICE ≈ €9 from the region. But it’s more workers, and students. Cod is natu- and a good pita bread. To enjoy sought after and creative, and fo- PRICE ≈ €20 to €33 generally a meeting point for locals rally present on the menu, prepared PRICE ≈ €15 comfortably sitting down or to cuses as much on plants as on with its concerts, screenings-de- in various ways, but the choice is, of takeaway. A friendly welcome, good, fish (sea or freshwater) and meat. bates, DIY workshops or even shiat- course, not just limited to that. Very quick service. Very reasonable Careful service. The wine list su sessions. reasonable prices. Booking recom- prices. Some tables outside. has some surprises. Bonus: a mended. tasty vegetarian menu.

PLUMEREAU GARE [STATION]

AU CAFÉ D'EN FACE LE BARJU LA MAISON BERBÈRE NOBUKI 21, PLACE DES HALLES 15, RUE DU CHANGE 12, RUE ÉDOUARD 3, RUE BUFFON 37000 TOURS 37000 TOURS VAILLANT 37000 TOURS +33 (0)2 47 38 61 61 +33 (0)2 47 64 01 57 37000 TOURS +33 (0)2 47 05 79 79 courtcircuit-tours.fr www.barju.fr +33 (0)2 47 05 45 09 nobuki.fr www.restaurant-marocain-tours.fr FROM MONDAY TO FRIDAY Au Café d'en Face Le Barju FROM MONDAY TO THURSDAY La Maison Berbère Nobuki FROM MONDAY TO THURSDAY 12:00 - 2:00pm 12:00 - 2:00pm 12:00 - 2:00pm FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY A Berber tent ceiling, floor covered A restaurant with a refined decor Le Café d'Isa has a new name and a The BarJu has been restyled 7:30pm - 9:30pm 12:00 - 2:00pm with rugs, old pottery: the perfect that reminds us, if need be, that SATURDAY new owner. But, happily, the cook- but remains a gourmet bistro where 7:00pm - 9:30pm FRIDAY 12:00 - 4:00pm ing and the atmosphere are just we can appreciate the delicacy of FRIDAY AND SATURDAY setting to (re) discover Moroccan Japanese cuisine is not just maki-su- 12:00 - 2:00pm the same. It’s still a popular place, the dishes, whether they include 12:00 - 2:00pm PRICE ≈ €24 to €38 cuisine, and more specifically shi-sashimi. The cooking is subtle, 7:00pm - 10:00pm PRICE ≈ €17 where local politicians, market trad- high end ingredients or something 7:30pm - 10:00pm Berber cuisine. Deliciously spicy precise and respectful of the ingre- ers, local employees, and groups of more simple. Chef Julien Perrodin tagines, couscous combining tasty dients, the service impeccable: the PRICE ≈ €25 SUNDAY friends mix... There’s something to learned the trade alongside the broth and perfect semolina , without love of a job well done is palpable in 12:00 - 2:00pm tickle your taste buds, too: tartare, greatest. A tasteful and welcom- forgetting the traditional harira and every detail. Short but beautiful list large salads, steak and chips... ing setting, careful wine list and PRICE ≈ €21 to €29 pastilla, all in a warm atmosphere. of Loire wines and sakes. Generous portions at the right desserts that you shouldn’t miss. price. 10 11 IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH GRAMMONT - PRÉBENDES SOUTH TOURS

TOURS À TABLE PARFUM CULTURE LE COIN DE TABLE LA ROCHE LE ROY 45, RUE BERNARD PALISSY 63, RUE BLAISE PASCAL 15, RUE ARTHUR 55, ROUTE DE 37000 TOURS 37000 TOURS RIMBAUD SAINT-AVERTIN +33 (0)6 62 86 99 10 +33 (0)2 47 05 13 66 37000 TOURS 37200 TOURS toursatable.com www.parfumculture.fr +33 (0)2 47 51 68 29 +33 (0)2 47 27 22 00 www.lecoindetable.net/lecoindetable/ FROM TUESDAY TO FRIDAY Tours à Table Parfum Culture FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY Le Coin de Table La Roche le Roy www.larocheleroy.com 11:00 - 5:00pm 12:00 - 2:00pm MONDAY FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY A tasty alternative to sandwiches Just a stone's throw from the station, 7:00pm - 11:00pm Let’s get rid of the elephant in the The setting is magnificent, an 18th 12:00 - 1:45pm 12:00 - 1:15pm PRICE ≈ €15 and salads gobbled up for lunch. a place apart. Intimate, both in room straight away: yes, Le Coin de century manor house surrounded 7:00pm - 9:15pm The cuisine is simple and home- the atmosphere and in the dishes. PRICE ≈ €10 to €40 FROM TUESDAY TO FRIDAY Table is located right in the middle by beautiful parkland. For 30 years, made, prices well thought out. There This is the product of the 12:00 - 1:45pm of a commercial zone. But, any Alain Couturier has been one of the PRICE ≈ €35 to €75 are some local wines to accompany different Asian cultures in Celine's 7:30pm - 9:00pm problems end there. The dishes artisans of Tours cuisine. Now it's the meal. This lunch canteen also family. Through the dishes, we are based on beautiful market fresh the turn of the young Maximilian offers takeaway, picnic baskets, discover the big and small stories PRICE ≈ €20 produce prepared with experience. Bridier. He knows how to retain the cooking classes, and a home dining behind each of them. Here, Very nice wine list at unbeatable classic style in the dishes and the service... you take the time to smell and prices. Booking recommended. service, with just a little extra kick. savour the aroma of the culture. The tradition continues...

TOURS

AU MARTIN BLEU CASSE-CAILLOUX LA PART BELLE LE XII DE LUYNES 34, AVENUE DE GRAMMONT 26, RUE JEHAN FOUQUET 5, RUE DE L’ÉGLISE 12, RUE DE LA 37000 TOURS 37000 TOURS 37210 RÉPUBLIQUE +33 (0)2 47 66 79 33 +33 (0)2 47 61 60 64 +33 (0)2 47 65 36 78 37230 LUYNES www.martinbleu.com www.lapartbelle-rochecorbon.fr +33 (0)2 47 26 07 41 MONDAY AND TUESDAY www.le-douze.com FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY Au Martin Bleu Casse-Cailloux THURSDAY AND FRIDAY FROM TUESDAY TO SUNDAY La Part Belle Le XII de Luynes 12:00 - 2:00pm 12:00 - 1:45pm 10:00am - 7:30pm TUESDAY A Tours icon. With a modern and Not an easy task to take on this This modern building in the A fine and elegant cuisine that 7:30pm - 9:00pm 7:30pm - 9:45pm 7:30pm - 9:00pm elegant decor and a menu rooted in legendary venue created by Patricia FRIDAY AND SATURDAY place de l’église is home to a flirts with a certain relaxation, as if PRICE ≈ €32 its region, that gives pride of place and Hervé Charbonneau, but WEDNESDAY 10:00am - 10:00pm restaurant/grocers. Here, you can to put the customer at ease in the FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY to freshwater fish: eel, pike-perch, Mathieu (in the kitchen) and Elodie 7:30pm - 9:45pm enjoy eating what Tony and his imposing setting of this 12th centu- 12:00 - 1:30pm mullet... With a little nostalgia, (front of house) Laurendeau have PRICE ≈ €17 to €25 second have enjoyed cooking. You ry building. The menu changes with 7:30pm - 9:00pm the menu also features salmon, taken up the challenge with enthusi- SATURDAY can appreciate the clever use of spices the seasons and becomes a very 12:00 - 1:45pm unfortunately no longer found asm! In a discreet and intimate which balance the dishes. Good reasonably priced fixed menu at SUNDAY lunchtime. A wine list to match its 12:00 - 1:30pm in the waters of the royal river. A setting, away from the tourist routes PRICE ≈ €26 to €37 selection of beers and wines. In surroundings. Pretty terrace for fine wine list that highlights the Loire but close to the town centre, they summer, there’s a pleasant terrace. PRICE ≈ €16 to €69 vineyard. serve bistro cuisine with a creative days. touch.

NORTH TOURS

LA MAISON TOURANGELLE L’ÉTAPE GOURMANDE CHARLES BARRIER LE BISTROT DE LA 9, ROUTE DES GROTTES LA GIRAUDIÈRE RESTAURANT TRANCHÉE PETRIFIANTES 37510 101, AVENUE DE 103, AVENUE DE 37510 SAVONNIÈRES +33 (0)2 47 50 08 60 LA TRANCHÉE LA TRANCHÉE +33 (0)2 47 50 30 05 www.letapegourmande.com 37000 TOURS 37000 TOURS www.lamaisontourangelle.com +33 (0)2 47 54 20 39 +33 (0)2 47 41 09 08 La Maison Tourangelle L’Étape Gourmande OPEN EVERY DAY Charles Barrier Restaurant Le Bistrot de la Tranchée FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY 12:00 - 2:30pm www.charles-barrier.fr bistrot.charles-barrier.fr In the charming village of A beautiful 18th century farm a little 12:15pm - 1:15pm 7:30pm - 9:00pm An historical icon in Tours gastron- Located next its big brother, the Savonnières, a beautiful building away from the village. In summer, FROM MONDAY TO FRIDAY 7:30pm - 9:00pm omy. The opulent decor (tapestries, Charles Barrier, the Bistrot de la FROM MONDAY TO SATURDAY overlooking the Cher. Since 2004, the beautiful shaded terrace is a PRICE ≈ €20 to €43 12:00 - 1:30pm 12:00 - 1:30pm an imposing chandelier, tablecloths Tranchée is the bistro version of the SUNDAY Frédéric Arnault, who trained in delight for young and old; the rest 7:30pm - 9:30pm 7:30pm - 9:30pm ...) and service set the tone: this is gourmet restaurant. You can enjoy 12:15pm - 1:15pm fine restaurants, has been here. of the time, you can appreciate the SATURDAY a traditional restaurant. The dishes the classics of this style of cooking PRICE ≈ €13 A pleasantly spicy menu with a charm of the rooms with a blend of 7:30pm - 9:30pm combine classic bases and modern (pie, calf's head with gribiche sauce, PRICE ≈ €32 touch of modernity. The dishes veer stone and exposed beams, and a touches. A beautiful wine list, for all pot au feu, coq au vin...), to which is between standard and improvisa- fireplace. The dishes feature classic PRICE ≈ €22 to €69 tastes and all budgets. added, in the evening, a menu that tion, creating a happy harmony. bases with some touches of origi- plays with creativity. The wine list is Shaded terrace on fine days. nality. Interesting children’s menu. to be enjoyed.

12 13 IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH

L'ATELIER D'OLIVIER ARLOT LA FLEUR DE SEL AU CHAPEAU ROUGE LA MÈRE HAMARD 55, QUAI DES 25 BIS, AVENUE 49, PLACE DU 2, RUE DU PETIT BERCY MAISONS BLANCHES DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE GÉNÉRAL DE GAULLE 37360 SEMBLANÇAY 37540 SAINT-CYR 37300 JOUÉ-LÈS-TOURS 37500 CHINON +33 (0)2 47 56 62 04 +33 (0)2 47 73 18 63 +33 (0)2 47 67 58 09 +33 (0)2 47 73 18 63 www.lamerehamard.com www.auchapeaurouge.fr FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY L'Atelier d'Olivier Arlot La Fleur de Sel FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY Au Chapeau Rouge La Mère Hamard MONDAY AND TUESDAY 12:00 - 2:00pm 12:00 - 2:00pm 7:00pm - 9:30pm A child prodigy of Tours gastrono- Located on one of the shopping TUESDAY Christophe Daguin and his wife In this pretty village, an establish- 7:00pm - 10:00pm 7:15pm - 9:30pm 7:30pm - 8:45pm my, Olivier Arlot has, in recent years, streets in Joué-lès-Tours, the Fleur Murielle own this restaurant that ment rich in over a century of FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY turned to bistro cuisine, without de Sel is a creperie with a tidy and continues the gastronomic culture history. This history is blended with PRICE ≈ €30 PRICE ≈ €13 FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY 12:00 - 2:00pm giving up any of the precision and modern decoration. The dishes that of the Bardet dynasty, part of 12:00 - 1:15pm of the Rabelaisian town. A cuisine 7:00pm - 10:00pm elegance in his dishes. In Saint-Cyr, are very good, with good quali- 7:30pm - 8:45pm which gives pride of place to the Tours gastronomic nobility. Alice in a simple, informal and bright ty galettes with generous fillings. local traditions (freshwater fish, Bardet takes care of the service, SUNDAY setting, he serves a tasty, light menu There is a wide choice. The crêpes SUNDAY poire tapée, beuchelle...), pre- professional and welcoming. Her 12:00 - 2:00pm with a twist on the traditional. are also very tempting. Efficient, 12:00 - 1:15pm pared with great care and without husband, Olivier Loize, breathes PRICE ≈ €60 quick service. Interesting choice of pretension. A family atmosphere new life into traditional dishes. ciders and perry. PRICE ≈ €24 to €32 and a professional welcome.

LES HAUTES ROCHES MOKA AUBERGE POM’POIRE L’ÉVIDENCE 86, QUAI DE LA LOIRE 74, QUAI SADI CARNOT LIONNIÈRE 1, RUE DE MONTS 37210 ROCHECORBON 37550 SAINT-AVERTIN 37190 AZAY-LE-RIDEAU 37250 +33 (0)2 47 52 88 88 +33 (0)9 73 56 15 07 +33 (0)2 47 45 83 00 +33 (0)2 47 26 00 67 www.leshautesroches.com/le-restaurant www.aubergepompoire.fr FROM WEDNESDAY TO SUNDAY FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY 11:00am - 6:00pm: 11:00 - 6:00pm FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY Les Hautes Roches Moka TUESDAY AND THURSDAY Auberge Pom’Poire L’Évidence 12:15pm - 1:15pm 7:00pm - 9:00pm On the edge of the Lake of Rives, Moka PRICE ≈ €6 Historic gastronomic address in 7:15pm - 9.15pm 18th century mansion, troglodyte A beautiful country house surround- SUNDAY bedrooms, terrace overlooking is an unclassifiable place, between Touraine taken on by Gaëtan Evrard, 11:00 - 1:30pm WEDNESDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY ed by orchards. The decor is simple, PRICE ≈ €65 to €125 the royal river: the challenge for the restaurant, tea room and Ali Baba’s neat and welcoming. Which is a bit one of the most promising young 12:00 - 1:30pm: PRICE ≈ €29 to €78 kitchen is to live up to the expecta- cave. Homemade cooking feature 7:00pm - 9:00pm: like the service, where the famil- local chefs. An elegant setting and a tions that such a setting can create. pies and savoury cakes, mixed iar tone does not detract from its creative cuisine that con- If it is sometimes full of spices, the salads, and sweet cakes. The dishes SUNDAY professionalism. The cuisine veys the pleasure the chef base remains classic, playing with can be accompanied by cocktails, 12:00 - 1:30pm adds value to the work of local farm- has in designing the menu. high end produce (foie gras, lobster tea or chocolate in the old fashioned ers by interpreting it in a modern Professional service which ...) and sometimes the seasons. way. In fine weather, the terrace PRICE ≈ €35 way. You can enjoy a meal on the could benefit from being a little Beautiful wine list. at the back of the old building is pleasant terrace on summer days. more relaxed. Beautiful wine list. exquisite. Booking recommended.

OUTSIDE THE URBAN AREA

AUBERGE DE VINCENT DE PRAY LES GUEULES NOIRES PORT VALLIÈRES CUISINIER DE CAMPAGNE RUE DU CÈDRE 66, RUE DE LA 188 D952 19, RUE DE LA 37530 CHARGÉ VALLÉE COQUETTE 37230 GALOTTIÈRE +33 (0)2 47 42 24 04 37210 VOUVRAY +33 (0)2 47 42 24 04 37140 INGRANDES www.chateaudepray.fr +33 (0)2 47 52 62 18 www.auberge-de-port-vallieres.fr +33 (0)2 47 27 22 00 gueulenoirevouvray.wixsite.com/les- Auberge de Port Vallières Vincent cuisinier de campagne http://vincentcuisinierdecampagne. WEDNESDAY Château de Pray Les Gueules Noires gueules-noires FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY 7:00pm - 9:00pm A witness to the fishy In the heart of the vineyards, this blogspot.fr/ 12:00 - 1:45pm Next to the magnificent château, a A troglodyte house in the Vouvray FROM WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY 7:30pm - 9:15pm past of the Loire waters. The pretty building houses a restaurant troglodyte dining room. The decor FROM MONDAY TO SATURDAY FROM THURSDAY TO SUNDAY vineyards, a fire crackling in the 12:00 - 1:30pm establishment clearly shows with the air of a table d'hôtes. With 12:00 - 2:00pm 12:00 - 1:30pm is discreet to highlight the stone, hearth in winter, a pleasant terrace 7:30pm - 9:00pm SUNDAY its gastronomic ambitions: the Olivia and Vincent Simon, we enjoy 7:30pm - 9:00pm 7:00pm - 9:00pm beautiful and imposing. Time almost in summer. As for the cooking, the 12:00 - 1:45pm service, orchestrated by Marie- homemade seasonal cuisine that stands still. The service is elegant bistro tradition is revisited with SUNDAY Hélène Leroux, is attentive with- combines the fruits of their own PRICE ≈ €25 PRICE ≈ €60 and relaxed, the cuisine showcases 12:00 - 1:30pm PRICE ≈ €18 to €58 a light touch. Attentive welcome. out being starched. In the kitch- labour (vegetables, poultry...) and produce from Tours and combines Beautiful wine list where the Loire PRICE ≈ €45 en, her husband puts the those of neighbouring farmers. A tradition and modernity brilliantly. bottles mingle with finds from so-called noble products (lob- beautiful wine list highlights the In the summer, there is a superb elsewhere. Booking recommended. ster, foie gras, langoustine ...) in vineyards of the town and Bourgue- terrace overlooking the royal river. the spotlight. Complementary il. 14 wine list. Terrace in summer. 15 Clémentine Chauveau IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH PORTRAIT THE BIB GOURMANDs

Since 1997, the ‘Bib Gourmand’ has revealed good French restaurants which off er a gastronomic experience for a reasonable price, a maximum of €33 for a complete menu with starter, main course and dessert. Preceding the famous Red Guide and its Michelin-starred restaurants by a few weeks, the Bib Gourmand selection, published by the Michelin Guide, is a keenly awaited event in the restaurant trade, and is also watched carefully by the Tours Creative City of Gastronomy in the Val de Loire Association, which sees within it a demonstration of the dynamism of a profession in perpetual mutation. The "Bib", a contraction of bibendum, the famous mascot of the tyre group, has unveiled a 2018 selection which has 45 names in the Centre-Val de Loire region, of which nearly half the restaurants are in -et-Loire. This is the illustration of the evolution in the restaurant and gastronomy (or semi-gastronomy) sector in recent years, with the combined opening of several establishments in this range, which can be adapted to business meals as easily as to dinners with friends or family. If by chance, you decide to set out to discover them, here is the list of the 21 names in the department.

Amboise - Le Lion d'Or Luynes - Le XII de Luynes Azay-le-Rideau - L'Aigle d'Or Monts - Au Carrousel des Saveurs Azay-le-Rideau – Auberge Pom'Poire Neuillé-le-Lierre - Auberge de la Brenne Bléré - La Boulaye Savonnières - La Maison Tourangelle Returning to France at the age of 19, he spent Chédigny - Le Clos aux Roses Tours - Au Lapin qui Fume a month in a bakery in his hometown to learn Chinon - Au Chapeau Rouge Tours - Le Bistrot de la Tranchée the secrets of bread making. He then continued Chinon - L'Océanic Tours - Le Chien Jaune PORTRAIT his journey in a Michelin-starred restaurant in - Auberge du Cheval Rouge Tours - Le Saint-Honoré Burgundy, spent four years in Switzerland where Fondettes - Auberge de Port Vallières Parçay-Meslay - L'Arche de Meslay he was involved in the opening of a hotel-restau- L'Île-Bouchard - Auberge de l'Île Saint-Cyr-sur-Loire - L'Atelier d'Olivier Arlot rant, and travelled with his partner to explore - Au Coin des Halles Australia, Indonesia, New Zealand and the United MAXIMILIEN BRIDIER States. Back in France, Maximilien Bridier decid- OF A CHEF ed to start looking for his own establishment To this distinction, we should not forget the 11 Michelin starred restaurants which complete the gastronomic range in the Centre – Val de Loire region: between Tours and Orleans. This is how he seized the opportunity to take over La Roche Le Roy in ** Tours in December 2016, a former 18th century Le Domaine des Hauts de Loire, (Loir-et-Cher) mansion and a Michelin restaurant since 1989. In December 2016, Maximilien Bridier took “I didn’t want to take on a star,” says Maximilien * over the La Roche Le Roy restaurant in Tours, Bridier. “But I had fallen in love with the place, and Au 14 Février, in Saint-Valentin (Indre) an iconic establishment, run for thirty years by I liked the traditional cuisine of the former chef, Le Château de Pray, in Chargé (Indre-et-Loire) Michelin-starred chef Alain Couturier. This young Alain Couturier,” he adds. Du bon Laboureur, in (Indre-et-Loire) passionate chef, who aims to soon win his own His goal is to continue to work with the current team, to promote the seasonality of the à la carte La Promenade, in Petit-Pressigny (Indre-et-Loire) star, is back in the game. Les Hautes Roches, in Rochecorbon (Indre-et-Loire) produce, to meet as many local producers as Pertica, in Vendôme (Loir-et-Cher) possible, and... to get his own star in the short L'Orangerie du Château, in (Loir-et-Cher) Originally from Loir et Cher, Maximilien Bridier found himself in the term. It seems like he has already achieved most of Assa, in Blois (Loir-et-Cher) world of cooking by chance, to avoid remaining bored at school. His this goal because Maximilien Bridier managed to La Maison d'à Côté, in (Loir-et-Cher) competitive spirit saw him train with great stars early on. So, he learned employ two additional employees in Le Grand Hôtel du Lion d'or, in Romorantin-Lanthenay (Loir-et-Cher) the trade alongside Jean-Marc Molveaux, at the Orangerie du Château the fi rst year, and redo some works in Blois (41), and then Bernard Robin at the Relais de Bracieux (41). in the restaurant. À la carte local and seasonal With his vocational training certifi cate in hand, he passed the Profes- produce is in the spotlight, and the establishment sional Certifi cate in 2009, coming fi rst in his year, and won two cooking is still very popular with Tours residents. competitions. The young man decided to leave France for the south of England to perfect his English.In under a year, he became chef at a gourmet restaurant and was recognised in a British guide.

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WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR Antoine & Léa BRUNCH IN TOURS A LOCAL RETAIL BANK TO ACCOMPANY YOU INTERNATIONALLY BRUNCH IN TOURS

Faced with the weekend ritual that we all love so much, we PLACES TO ENJOY BRUNCH often ask ourselves the same question: where to go for brunch in Tours, to make the most of a Sunday? We have sampled the menus of the main Sunday res- taurants, and, between culture and travel... believe us, lovers of food are in for a treat!

Le Café Contemporain CCCOD Le café contemporain Quand Julie Pâtisse El Cafecito JARDIN FRANÇOIS 1ER 37000 TOURS CCCOD In the heart of the Jardin des Let’s travel, and not just 06 68 49 21 40 Prébendes, Julie’s little kiosk a short distance! Set a www.cccod.fr/le-cafe-contemporain Because culture feeds the serves home-made brunch- course for Guatemala SUMMER OPENING HOURS spirit, but also our stomachs, es that are hearty and for a pleasant brunch and a (FROM 20/05 TO 17/09): the CCCOD (Centre de Création satisfying between 11am and warm welcome. You will feel FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY: 3pm. Adults and children alike 11.30am | 7.00pm Contemporaine Olivier Debré) immediately at ease. Every THURSDAY: 11.30am | 9.00pm has come up with a concept will take pleasure in eating Sunday, from 11am to 3pm, SUNDAY: 11.30am | 5.00pm to transform our Sundays. In there: Granola, pancakes, the ambience is cosy, and the cured meats and local chees- Quand Julie Pâtisse its café, brunch is served on food served is copious and JARDIN DES PREBENDES D'OÉ Sundays from 11.30am until 5pm, es, fondant crumble and choc- delicious: black beans (frijoles), 37000 TOURS olate cream made with love... comprising: granola, fresh fruit omelettes, plantain bananas, 02 47 20 14 46 Don’t forget to reserve your bacon, all accompanied www.quandjuliepatisse.com salad, Charles Do Vale coff ee... finance your development, table on 02 47 20 14 46 Your with traditional pancakes, fresh FROM MONDAY TO SATURDAY: all organic and locally-sourced. In wallet will be equally pleased: fruit juice and hot drinks. Your 8.30am | 5.30pm terms of juice, you’ll be spoilt for with brunch costing just €17.50 SUNDAY: 10.00am | 5.00pm taste buds will be tantalised, your optimise your cash flow, choice between: Detox, Alkaline for adults and €10 for kids. ears won’t be neglected, and El Cafecito or Energy. The decor itself your wallet won’t suff er: €15 for JARDIN DES PREBENDES D 'OÉ complements the food served: an all-inclusive brunch. This is safeguard your transactions, 37000 TOURS 02 47 20 14 46 enjoy eating whilst contemplating how to enjoy a leisurely Sunday. www.quandjuliepatisse.com the work of art in the middle of etablish yourself internationally. FROM MONDAY TO SATURDAY: the café - a vessel sailing in an oily 10.00am | 7.00pm sea of black by Norwegian artist Per Barcley. We’ve certainly seen worse! Massimo Della Pena & Margot Besson (1) 20 relationship managers CAFÉS AND TEA ROOMS

(1) Brunch et Goût Thé corporate branches 19, RUE JULES FAVRE 4 37000 TOURS 02 47 60 98 46

FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY: 9.00am | 7.00pm 85 000 transactions processed BRUNCH SERVED EVERY DAY FROM 11.00am in 2017 in 90 countries(1) Scarlett 70, RUE COLBERT 37000 TOURS Brunch et Goût Thé Scarlett Le Petit Atelier 02 47 66 94 09 The perfect place to be re- A real Touraine institu- It would seem that the MONDAY: 2.30pm | 6.30pm FROM TUESDAY TO FRIDAY: 11.00am | 7.00pm juvenated. As soon as the tion. A wide selection of coff ee shop bandwagon SATURDAY: 10.00am | 7.00pm Your international expert doors open, you will be teas is complemented with has truly landed in Tours. captivated by the aroma of an original coff ee menu Le Petit Atelier provides (2) (2) Sandra PORCELLI | Phone : 00 33 247 39 84 72 | GSM : 00 33 679 30 59 43 | Email : [email protected] home-made jams beautifully and various sweet drinks. every element you’d expect Le Petit Atelier You can prolong your en- from this theme: choice 61, RUE COLBERT presented on the buff et. Just 37000 TOURS joyment at home with of coff ee preparation as the name implies, you can 02 47 31 94 21 a selection of teas and cof- methods such as fi lter, www.lepetitatelier.coff ee (1) Chiffres arrêtés au 31/12/2016 par le service Affaires Internationales de la Caisse Régionale de Crédit Agricole Mutuel de la Touraine et du Poitou. enjoy brunch here, as well as fees (beans or ground) for espresso, cafétière; leather (2) Coût de la communication variable selon les tarifs appliqués par votre opérateur. lunch and breakfast. WiFi. sale to take away. There are sofas, WiFi... Snacks served FROM MONDAY TO FRIDAY: 7.30am | 7.00pm 19 SATURDAY: 8.00am | 7.00pm CRÉDIT AGRICOLE DE LA TOURAINE ET DU POITOU Société coopérative à capital variable, agréée en tant qu’établissement de crédit - Siège social : 18 rue Salvador Allende - CS50 307 - also tables out on the ter- at lunchtime. Terrace. 86008 - Cedex 1 - 399 780 097 RCS POITIERS. Société de courtage d’assurance immatriculée au Registre des Intermédiaires en Assurance sous le n° 07 023 896 (www.orias.fr). race. WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR

INTERNATIONAL GB A4.indd 1 14/06/18 18:39 Julie Alves IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH IF YOU’D LIKE TO COME THROUGH COOKING COURSES CHEF’S IN TOURS RECIPES

SCALLOPS AND SQUID, ANISEED AND TOASTED BREAD LEARN HOW TO COOK IN TOURS 1 EMULSION BY MAXIMILIEN BRIDIER, LA ROCHE LE ROY

Juliette Camatta – La cuisine autrement Quand Julie Pâtisse – L’atelier For 4 people: PREPARATION In a magical setting, come and cook local, In the heart of the Jardin des Prébend- 12 scallops > Finely chop the fennel, using a mandolin. Sweat the fennel gently in a pan until it is seasonal produce with a chef who is pas- es in Tours, in a bewitching setting, 8 squid bodies steamed through. Season with a pinch of salt and half a capful of Ricard, set aside. sionate and a good teacher. learn to bake and cook mainly local 2 fennel bulbs > Open and clean the scallops and wash the squid. produce, for adults, families or children, Squid ink to taste > For the sauce, brown 100g of bread under the grill. It needs to be burnt, but not too Contact: 45 rue de la Marbellière · 37300 JOUE LES TOURS much or the sauce will be bitter. +33 (0)2 34 53 44 46 · [email protected] everything is possible. Ricard to taste Stale bread > Sweat the thinly sliced onions in a pan, with a knob of butter. Add the burnt bread Contact: Jardin des Prébendes D’oé · 37000 TOURS and the thyme. +33 (0)2 47 20 14 46 · [email protected] ½ litre of milk > Cook until all the liquid has been absorbed and fl ambé with two capfuls of Ricard. 1 onion > Add with milk and cook for 15 minutes. Thyme > Mix, strain through muslin, adjust the seasoning, the salt, pepper and Ricard, to taste. Tours à table Un Arôme 2 chefs > In a hot frying pan quickly cook the scallops and squid bodies on both sides, with Open since 2005 in the town centre of These two chefs will teach you their tips olive oil. > Serve on a bed of hot fennel with the sauce. Tours, this establishment off ers baking, and hints to make cooking easier. Adults or cooking, and wine classes... There are children, there’s something for everyone. La Roche Le Roy · 55 route de Saint Avertin 37200 TOURS · +33 (0)2 47 27 22 00 also packages suitable for children. Their Contact: Horloge Commercial Zone 8 rue du Maréchal Jof- courses are available in the Touraine Box. fre · 37100 TOURS +33 (0)9 83 53 02 69 · [email protected] Contact: 45 rue Bernard Palissy · 37000 TOURS +33 (0)6 62 86 99 10 · [email protected]

LEMON, BASIL AND RASPBERRY TART Zodio Cook and Go 2 BY MICHEL CAILLEAUX OF ESPRIT CACAO This establishment’s name means ‘house’ Learn how to cook in a pleasant setting SWEET PASTRY: in Greek. Their chef will guide you as you and, above all, how to cook for the number 500g of fl our, 300g of butter, 60g of powdered almonds, 180g of icing sugar, 5g of salt, 100g of egg, 1 jar ofraspberry learn how to use the produce from their of people that you want. You can then take jam for assembly. shop and will give you the recipes and your dish home for lunch or dinner. 2 Mix the fl our, powdered almonds, icing sugar, salt and butter together, add the eggs. Mix to a smooth paste. sweet and savoury advice. Children are Contact: 30 rue du Commerce · 37000 TOURS +33 (0)9 Leave it to rest for 12 hours in the fridge. Then roll the pastry out to a thickness of 2.5 -3mm, and place it in your pie mould. Bake welcome. 81 39 21 31 in a hot oven at 170°C for 15 to 20 minutes. Contact: 213-215 Avenue du Grand Sud 37170 CHAMBRAY LES TOURS · +33 (0)2 47 21 89 00 LEMON BASIL CREAM: 165g of butter, 65g of sugar, 110g of lemon juice, 1 zest of lemon, 120g of eggs, 65g of sugar, 6g of basil leaf.

Boil the butter, sugar, lemon zest and lemon juice. Les ateliers culinaires du Château d’Artigny Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until the mixture becomes white. Add the eggs and sugar to the pan and bring to the boil. Add the Within a château, come and create your menu fi nely chopped basil and mix before cooling. and then enjoy it on-site in a friendly atmos- phere. With friends, with family, or just to spend MERINGUE: some time in this magnifi cent site. 1 100g egg white, 200g sugar.

Contact: 90 route de Monts · 37230 MONTBAZON Mix the egg whites and sugar and heat them to 45 - 50°C. +33 (0)2 47 34 30 30 Using a pastry bag, make small drops of the mixture on parchment paper and cook the meringues for 90 minutes at 100°C. Switch the oven off and leave the meringues in there until they cool completely.

ASSEMBLY: Spread a thin layer of jam on the pastry case. Add the lemon cream and smooth. Decorate with fresh raspberry, meringue, and basil leaf.

20 21

WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR Antoine & Léa Lydie FOOD TRUCKERS PERFECT DAY FOR A PICNIC SELECTION OF PERFECT DAY FOOD TRUCKS FOR A PICNIC

Whether you are in a hurry in the offi ce, or want to eat quietly in a park in the sun, food You’ve decided to go for a picnic with your family or friends, but you’ve got nothing prepared? For those who don’t want to bother with the preparations, there is the turnkey package for a trucks are a great idea for a diff erent way to eat. Street food has arrived in Tours, and complete picnic. now we can’t live without it. More than a matter of time, it is also, and mainly, a matter of taste. From every horizon, but with fresh, local produce, the dishes served in these no- madic restaurants will delight everyone’s taste buds. Tours à Table, cooking workshop All year round, from 10 to 12 euros per person, Tours à table supplies picnic baskets. You will have the choice between a duo or quatro package. And for those who appre- ciate the fi ner things, there’s a gourmet package. A completely homemade, fresh and local picnic. It is composed of sal- ad, vegetable cake, rillette, fi sh terrine, sweet treat (fi nancier or chocolate square), fruit (fresh or compotes), bread and drink (juice and alcoholic drinks extra).

For more information, visit: www.toursatable.com To order, call: +33 (0)6 62 86 99 10 Lebanese Amal Béna - Aïda Le Bolid' Gourmand 45, rue Bernard Palissy, à Tours Behind his nomadic counter, Amal Bena Whether you need a breath of Breton air, or a is busy preparing delicious Lebanese charming smile at the lunchtime, you can be sure La Balade Gourmande, delicatessen and on line sales dishes from such as falafels, mezze... of both from Mireille, who prepares us beautiful Specialist in produce from the Loire Valley, you will surely fi nd what something tempt- Local producers, fresh produce, we have to Breton pancakes, made from fresh, seasonal pro- ing from the wide choice. Their philosophy, to have a direct relationship with the pro- recommend this gourmet break, which allows duce. With vegetarian and gluten-free options, it’s ducers and to fi nd products with no artifi cial fl avours or colouring. our tastebuds to travel. And what more can I a defi nite recommendation. Homemade dishes It’s up to you what you choose to go into your picnic basket. Savoury: pork terrine and say, when the welcome is so warm? Find Amal of the day, which are always in keeping with the every Thursday from 11:00am to 6:00pm, season, are also available. And we haven’t even rillette, game, poultry or fi sh, or a goat’s cheese puff Sweet: macaroons, shortbread, Place Jean Jaurès, and on Mondays in front of mentioned the sweet pancakes...! or poires tapées. Accompany your meal with a bottle of Loire wine, a red or the Nouvelle République in Tours. Fridays, it’s Find Mireille in front of MAME every Wednesday Bourgueil, a mellow Vouvray, or a rosé from Azay Le Rideau. Vendome, and Saturday, Blois. lunchtime. Between €6.50 and €10 for a meal. For the undecided, mixed boxes are available. Supplied with cases or Tel.: +33 (0)6 25 34 85 96 Tel.: +33 (0)6 60 07 30 79 small cases, depending on the format. Variable price between €25 and €100. For more information, call: +33 (0)2 47 75 11 65 To order, visit: labaladegourmande.com 23, place du Grand Marché, à Tours

La Maison Clément, delicatessen and wine cellar in the heart of the covered market Last year, the Clément brothers launched picnic baskets for 2 or 4 people. Crockery is provided, including a corkscrew. You will leave with a wicker basket, made in Vil- laine-lès-Rochers. Le Kabumachou Cuisine d'Ana For beautiful days, two packages are available (product list from 2017, 2018 list not yet available). For 2 people, the cost is €29.90 and for 4 people, €34.90. In our opinion, one of the best burgers in Anabela works in her pretty food-truck serving us Package 1: duck sausage with foie gras, Fabrice Dallais terrine, baguette, Tours. Here, everything is homemade, the delicious dishes of the day, quiches and salads, bottle of Trinqu’âme wine. buns are moist, the cheese melting... and made with love, and fresh produce. The dishes Package 2: serrano ham, cream of carrot with spices, duck rillette, chick pea paste, the chips are... delicious? generous? We can’t are varied, all of a superb quality. You can fi nd choose a word to describe this moment of Ana in front of MAME, at the Botanical Garden, baguette, bottle of Chinon. pure joy to you. Smiles aregenerously served. at the Boulevard Béranger fl ea market, and even The Maison Clément’s individuality comes from its foie gras production. A wide range Find them in front of MAME every Tuesday in Montbazon. Follow all her movements on her of duck and goose products are developed in their laboratory in Ballan-Miré. lunchtime... See you there? Facebook page ‘La cuisine d’Ana’. For more information, call: +33 (0)2 47 80 04 71 Tel.: +33 (0)6 65 94 84 50 Tel.: +33 (0)6 15 57 39 37 Place Gaston Paillhou, Les Halles porte G, Tours

22

WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR Follow your heart… MEASURES OF QUALITY It will take you to “the belly of Tours”! FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND

At the entrance, we see them without really noticing them. They’re the gastronomic labels which adorn the restaurants in our beautiful region. Committed to the restaurant trade, the Tours Creative City of Gastronomy in the Val de Loire association gives you some guidance in reading between the lines, for a better understanding of the labels which appear in these establishments.

MAITRES RESTAURATEURS Created in 2010 by the government, the Association Française des Maitres Restaurateurs [the French Association of Master Restaurateurs] guarantees ‘quality cooking’ and certifies that dishes are ‘homemade’. Over 3900 restaurants in France have received this award.

EUROTOQUES For over 30 years, the Euro-Toque association, (created, among others, by Paul Bocuse) and its 2000 European chefs, including 220 in France, place product quality at the centre of the work in the kitchen.

J.R.E The association of Jeunes Restaurateurs Européens [Young European Restaurateurs] has been sponsored by twice three starred chef Yannick Alléno since March 2017. 360 members, 16 countries, 180 Michelin stars. A respect for traditions and the prioritising of local produce are the key elements for these young chefs, under 45 years old.

RESTAURANT DE QUALITÉ, THE LABEL OF THE GRANDS CHEFS Michelin-starred chefs, figureheads in French culinary heritage, are also on the rise. On 8th April 8 2013, Restaurant de qualité was created, a label recognised and initiated by the Culinary College of France, a body co-chaired by Alain The quality Ducasse and Joel Robuchon. RELAIS & CHÂTEAU of the products Very well known, the golden fleur de lys is synonymous with beauty and great luxury. Since 1954, the association of 550 ‘exceptional hotels and restaurants’ has been seen throughout the world. It has made the reputation of the Halles de Tours. MOF And according to a local saying It allows this area to still Here, it is the Chef’s excellence that is highlighted. It involves an extremely difficult contest that may require two to three years of preparation. Cooks who are awarded the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France are respected both from a “the heart of Tours beats at Les Halles”. attract so many different professional point of view and by the general public. Delicatessens, pork butchers, fresh grocers, cheesemongers, people everyday. At a time when we all get TABLE REMARQUABLE (CHÂTEAU AND HOTEL COLLECTION) butchers, bakers, fishmongers, pastry chefs, roasters, restaurants, Chaired by Alain Ducasse, the table remarquable label celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2015 and maintains a desire chocolate makers… At Les Halles de Tours, there is everything to more and more concerned to discover or rediscover inventive and authentic cuisine. It celebrates individual, contemporary and popular cooking. prepare the world-famous “gastronomic meal of the French”, listed with the quality and the origin LABEL FAIT MAISON [HOMEMADE LABEL] in 2010 by the Unesco as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. of the products, this high level Created in 2014, this very popular label is awarded to restaurants who make a of things on site. It could be a mo- Including this really intangible item: the pleasure to rummage through of requirement from torway services or a bistro in a square. the stalls to find your ingredients in a unique friendly atmosphere, the shopkeepers and chefs RESTAURATEURS DE FRANCE, A NATIONALLY RECOGNISED LABEL before going back home to cook and prepare your table. here makes sense Restaurateurs de France is an official label recognised in 1999 by the government, or more specifically by the Ministry of and is much appreciated. Tourism. Created by restaurant owners wishing to promote French culinary heritage, this label focuses on promoting A genuine pearl of the local heritage, les Halles de Tours are traditional French cuisine and local produce. an unmissable crossroads where different generations and social classes mix everyday, from regulars to (gourmet) birds of passage, [email protected] from experienced cooks to lovers of tasty and fresh high-quality leshallesdetours.fr ready-made food. 25 Place Gaston Paillhou 37000 Tours WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR ALL ABOUT WINE ALL ABOUT WINE

In the heart of the Loire Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of Humanity and 3rd largest vine- yard of France with regards to PDO, the Touraine vineyard offers a wide variety of appellations and styles of wine to delight all palates.

First of all, the Touraine appel- A point of interest, to the south lation has its regional roots in of Tours, the recognition of a over 15 centuries of tradition. PDO comes from a production It comes in white wines (in- dating back to King Louis XI, who cluding the famous Touraine had the Touraine Noble-Joué sauvignon), in fruity red wines, on his table. Its main originality from the gamay grape variety lies in the fact that it is a grey or blends, in dry, fresh rosé wine from a subtle blend of 3 wines, sometimes with spicy Pinot grape varieties: the Pinot notes and also fine sparkling Meunier, Pinot Gris and Pinot wines with delicate bouquets. Noir. Other famous names are Beyond the regional appel- the jewels of Touraine, such lation, more denominations as Vouvray, made from the are characterised by a more chenin grape and vinified in limited geographical identity dry, semi-dry, mellow or even and defined grape varieties: in fine bubbles. Let's also men- Touraine-Amboise, Touraine tion the reds, Chinon or Saint Azay-Le-Rideau, Touraine-Che- Nicolas de Bourgueil PDO, nonceaux, Touraine-Mesland from the cabernet franc grape and Touraine-Oisly. The link variety. This palette of flavours to the heritage and the Loire allows multiple food and wine châteaux is never very far from pairings, combining local reci- this region’s way of life and pes or French gastronomy, or gastronomy. We don’t call it an aperitif on the terrace or Touraine, Garden of France for a picnic on the banks of the nothing. Loire.

26 Massimo Della Pena & Margot Besson Clémentine Chauveau ALL ABOUT WINE ALL ABOUT WINE PORTRAIT OF A WINE MERCHANT CHOICE A WORD FROM OF WINE BARS THE WINE TRADE

Ô LIEU DIT VIN COMPTOIR SAINT KERBER 92, RUE JAMES CANE PLACE GASTON 37000 TOURS PAILLHOU +33 (0)2 47 36 95 52 In May 2015, Quebec's Emilie Riopel opened La Cabane à Vin in Chinon, associated 37000 TOURS www.olieuditvin.com with the winemaker Matthieu Baudry. This cellar and wine bar with its organic and +33 (0)2 47 38 38 78 Comptoir Saint Kerber Ô Lieu Dit Vin MONDAY natural leanings has a range of around 200 bottles, two-thirds of which come from www.saintkerber.com 12:00 | 3:00pm Les Halles is a good food landmark of Located just away from the town the Loire Valley. WEDNESDAY TO FRIDAY the Touraine province. It is the place centre, treat yourself to lunch with TUESDAY 9.00am | 1.00pm where Pierre Pichot first set up his a choice of simple and carefully-cre- 10.00am | 7.00pm 3.00pm | 7.00pm bar. Here you can try mussels reared ated dishes that are far from being by his family in Cancale as well as dull. For an aperitif, choose from a WEDNESDAY SATURDAY various other seafood dishes. Wide wide selection of wines, both local- 10.00am | 8.00pm 8.00am | 7.00pm selection of wines. To eat in or to ly-produced and from further afield, Emilie Riopel, what did you think of Touraine take away. cured meats and cheeses, with- THURSDAY, FRIDAY, SATURDAY wines when you lived in Quebec? SUNDAY 10.00am | 8.00pm 9.00am | 1.00pm out forgetting of course its famous I immediately liked the freshness of Loire wines, home-made smoked salmon. , Gamay or Pineau d'Aunis. We drank these rather light wines at the end of service when Could you describe in a few words the I worked in restaurants in Montreal. On the oth- Loire Valley appellations that are important to you? er hand, I hated Cabernet Franc, too predictable It Emilie Riopel: The Chinon appellation represents a third of is true that for the North American palate, people my Loire Valley selection in the shop. I live by Cravant-les-co- LA RÉSERVE LE BAR DU BISTROT DES BELLES who often like roundness and sweetness, the cab- CAVES teaux with my husband (winemaker Yves Plaisantin), and it 84, RUE COLBERT ernet franc is difficult to understand with its com- 23, RUE DU COMMERCE is in this village that we find the greatest concentration of 37000 TOURS plex botanical and tannic notes. Today I couldn’t 37000 TOURS winemakers of the appellation. The Chinon wines have a lot +33 (0)9 84 45 93 09 do without it, and I know how to introduce it to of character, they’re marked by the terroir. +33 (0)2 47 05 71 21 people, connoisseurs or not. The reds (Cabernet franc) are powerful but with soft tan- FRIDAY, SATURDAY www.lebistrotdesbellescaves.fr 11.00am | 02.00am La Réserve Bar du Bistrot des Belles nins, freshness and fruit. And a great minerality for whites A place in which to enjoy an aperitif, FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY (Chenin). I also like the Cour Cheverny appellation (41), with FROM SUNDAY TO WEDNESDAY Caves 12:00 | 3:00pm Matthieu Baudry, what were your motivations a snack, or a final drink at the end its limited surface area of 60 hectares. The Romorantin 11.00am | MIDNIGHT An establishment with many strings 6.00pm | MIDNIGHT for working with your father in the Chinon ap- of your evening. A wide selection of grape variety is very complex and aromatic, with an acidity to its bow. At the entrance, the bar pellation, after your experiences abroad? beer and wines are available to com- but roundness, full and floral in the mouth. It reminds me of with its lounge atmosphere is the plement dishes of mussels, cured I was born in that setting and I did not have enough perfect location in which to enjoy old Muscadets, I often recommend it with foie gras. But it’s meats and cheeses. There is also a perspective at the time to see the wealth in this tapas (smoked fish, rillons, chees- also a perfect accompaniment for shell fish, so it’s perfect for selection of local produce that can be es...) and to choose from one of the land. My experiences in other regions (Mâcon, Bor- New Year celebrations. found at the grocer’s next door, thousand and one wines available deaux) and abroad (Tasmania, California) allowed called l’Epicerie de la Réserve. Beauti- to try. To the rear there is a bistro me to come back in 2000 with a new view and a ful garden terrace. restaurant, and to the side, the wine greater comprehension. I became aware of the Matthieu Baudry: I’m a fan of Vouvray, 100% Chenin, in all cellar. privilege I had to be working on the family estate. its different forms: sec, demi-sec, liqueur sparkling. The rep- Since 2016, I have been the representative of a utation of Vouvray is well established, but the renaissance PDO Chinon committee which values ​​the singular- continues thanks to young, dynamic winemakers and more ities of certain localities in the appellation, shared small-scale domains, as in the Montlouis appelation. I also Ô LIEU DIT VIN by several winemakers, such as the Croix Boissée love the Muscadet, a little further away in the Loire Valley. LE DAGO'BAR 92, RUE JAMES CANE in Cravant-les-coteaux, the Picasses in Chinon, or The appellation has long suffered from a few viticultural er- 31, RUE DU GRAND MARCHÉ 37000 TOURS Pointevinière in . rors, but it is a very beautiful terroir. I particularly appreciate 37000 TOURS +33 (0)2 47 36 95 52 the good quality/price ratio of these wines, which are digest- +33 (0)2 47 61 76 14 www.olieuditvin.com ible and age well.

FROM THURSDAY TO MONDAY MONDAY 6.00pm | MIDNIGHT Le Dago’bar Le P’tit Blanc 12:00 | 3:00pm

A pleasant atmosphere with vintage A real Aladdin's Cave for wine enthu- TUESDAY decor. Cured meats and cheeses siasts with examples from the finest 10.00am | 7.00pm accompanied by a wine menu repre- French vineyards (including famous senting all of France’s wine-produc- wines of quality, wines from popular WEDNESDAY 28 ing regions (including some special producers, old vintages...). Serving 10.00am | 8.00pm 29 examples). It’s sister bar, Le Dagob- simple and tasty bistro dishes at ert, located nearby, offers the same lunchtime; and excellent meals in the THURSDAY, FRIDAY, SATURDAY 10.00am | 8.00pm choice of wines in a bistro setting. evening. The venue also operates as a wine cellar. Clémentine Chauveau MADE IN TOURS FOCUS ON LOCAL PRODUCE

Touraine can pride itself on having many gourmet specialities: cold meats, poultry, cheeses and delicacies for the sweet tooth. A short tour of some of the local mouth watering produce...

The Touraine Goose Poire tapée With its beautiful white plumage, its light blue eyes and Did you know, in Rivarennes, close to Azay-le-Ride- its yellowy-orange beak, the Touraine Goose is a top au, fruit is badly treated! They smack the pears! In this model in the anatidae family, with an air of its cousin, the village, at the edge of the Indre, bicentennial pear trees swan. This old bird, is quite robust and non-aggressive. produce fruit that are then dehydrated and flattened It is often said that the goose has a volatile character; for long-term preservation. We call them poires tapées. the Touraine goose, on the other hand, has a rather This ancestral technique was revived in the 1980s in warm temperament (especially in the oven!). Roast Rivarennes. The fruits are harvested at the end of the goose is usually eaten at Christmas time, but this tender summer then peeled, and heated for several days in a and delicate poultry can be eaten all year round, during wood oven on racks. When dried, the pears are then the grape harvest, or on Saint Martin's day (November flattened with the aid of a torture instrument: the 11th) as tradition dictates. The legend says that Martin platissoire. Formerly eaten as dried fruit, they are now of Tours, not wishing to be elected bishop at the enjoyed in sugar syrup, Loire wine, brandy or Hypocras request of the people of Tours, hid among the geese. (a blend of wine, spices and honey). They can also be But he was quickly unmasked because of the all the combined with savoury dishes, terrines or an accompa- noise from the poultry. Today, there are few breeders niment to meat. Two artisans welcome you to Rivarennes of Touraine geese. Some, like Christine Boisquillon, to discover this speciality: the Maison Hérin and the Blot (‘History of Geese’ in Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine), leads a family (‘Queens of Touraine’). A museum is even devoted real fight to get its taste recognised and to preserve the to it. This ‘beautiful Tourangelle’ is also available in many species, like the Touraine grouse and grey rabbit. delicatessens.

Saffron and Truffles Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine Saffron is obtained from the crocus sativus. This purplish The Ste-Maure de Touraine PDO, made with whole goat's blue flower is harvested from October to November. The milk, is an uncooked soft cheese. Its has an average weight pruning (removal of the pistil) is done directly by hand, to of 250g, a length of 16-17cm. Its other peculiarities are a recover the three red stigmas that will become saffron fine, bluish ash dusting, and a pure white heart, crossed once dehydrated. The ‘red gold’, known as far back as the by a rye straw engraved with the producer’s identifica- Middle Ages, was produced in France, unlike other spices. tion number. This goat’s cheese origins are in the 8th In the 18th century, its production declined considerably, century. Its name comes from the town of ‘SainteMaure it then reappeared in the 1980s, especially in the Tours de Touraine’, one of the main border towns between region. The Touraine Saffron Producers Association, Touraine and Poitou. Arab women (Moors), who had created in 2006, now has some thirty members, such been abandoned in the region following the defeat of the as Valérie Raineau Boucher in La Tour St Gélin, or Alain , would have taught the local population Gaudain in Ste-Maure de Touraine. Another exceptional to prepare this speciality. The Ste-Maure de Touraine product is the Touraine truffle. Tuber Melanosporum was PDO is produced on some farms in the Tours region (eg: cultivated in the Touraine as early as the 18th century, Le Vazereau in La Roche-Clermault) as well as in artisan particularly around Richelieu, where the soil and climate or industrial dairies (eg: La Cloche d’Or in Pont-de-Ru- were conducive to the development of this mushroom an.) Other producers do not have the label, but produce flower. The revival of truffle farming began in the 1970s cheeses which are just as easy to eat, such as the Ferme in the region, and today there are nearly 400ha devoted du Cabri au Lait, which favours organic production and to truffle culture in Touraine. goat are raised in pastures. According to custom, it The ‘black diamond’ is sold at the many truffle markets is necessary to start cutting the log at its biggest end, in winter, especially in Marigny Marmande. It is also otherwise the goat whose milk made the cheese will not celebrated in various local truffle festivals, in Tours or give any more! Chinon, for example. 31 Clémentine Chauveau MADE IN TOURS MADE IN TOURS PORTRAIT FOCUS ON FISHING LOCAL PRODUCE IN THE LOIRE

While fish are swimming smoothly along the Loire, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a handful of professional fishermen work every day on this long river, which is not always quiet. Four professionals fishermen live in Indre-et-Loire: Philippe Boisneau, Thierry Bouvet, Nicolas Herault and Romain Gadais. Tours Nougat Andouillette We meet two of these passionate fishermen on the water between Amboise and Rigny-Ussé... Tours nougat is not, as its name suggests, like the egg Andouillette is cooked sausage, based on the digestive white, honey and nut confectionery that we know. It is a tract of pork, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a mixture travel cake made of sweet pastry and almond macaroni, of spices. Unlike andouilles, andouillettes are never garnished with candied fruits and apricot jam. smoked. It was invented at the beginning of the 16th century, It is traditionally prepared on a rope (or string) in Thierry Bouvet, a geographer by training and the left bank and a little further south of Tours, when Leonardo da Vinci, a great lover of almonds and Touraine, that is to say that the casing, inserted on then Emmaus community leader, has, since in Bréhémont, Romain Gadais has also been candied fruits, lived in Touraine, in Amboise. the side of the rope, is pulled like a sock and unrolled 2014, been a professional fisherman on the working as a fisherman on the Loire since 2014. Its manufacture came back into fashion in the 1990s in through the length of the preparation. In Touraine, it is Montlouis-sur-Loire side. Holder of a BTS qualification in water manage- the Tours region, thanks to the Michelin starred restau- often cooked in a court-bouillon with Vouvray wine. He owes this conversion to his desire to work on ment and control, a DUT qualification in environ- rateur, Charles Barrier, whose version was proclaimed The Hardouin company in Vouvray has the distinction the last wild river in France, and to promote local mental engineering and a Masters in the ecology the official recipe in 1998 by The Confrérie Gourmande of the ‘5A’ diploma awarded by the Association Amicales fishing. He met Philippe Boisneau, a scientist of aquatic environments, this son of a winemak- du Nougat de Tours. There are now around twenty des Amateurs d'Andouillette Authentique. specialising in aquatic ecology, and began his er has used his training for the benefit of his pastry chefs in Indre-et-Loire who create this recogised But other artisan-charcutiers also prepare this recipe, life as a professional fisherman near Ambroise passion, fishing. recipe, such as Nicolas Léger in Tours, Didier Gourreau rooted in the gastronomic heritage of Tours, such as in 1994. After a day of fishing together, Thierry The Loire is part of the public domain river, he is in Joué-lès-Tours, Eric Gauvreau in Amboise, or La Tour Didier Arnoult at Île Bouchard or the Fessard Bouvet was hooked and confirmed his choice. the tenant of 34km (or 1000 ha of surface area) de l'Horloge in Chinon. in Chambray-lès-Tours. Thierry Bouvet's primary motivation is to which he works alone, between Fondettes and preserve the Loire, which he considers a Rigny-Ussé. "The river is my work tool, but it's precious but fragile environment. "If the river is also good for me," says the 29-year-old. Like sick, the tourist image collapses: fishing, but also Thierry Bouvet, he advocates responsible and vineyards and châteaux," he confides. artisan fishing. The ‘Royal River’ is suffering from the impacts The equipment used is "passive", that is to say, of climate change. Thierry Bouvet advocates a not towed. It is the movement of fish that leads peaceful and respectful joint use of the water, them into the trap. The foudraie (local name) is for fishermen, sailors, kayakers and others. the iconic equipment on the banks of the Loire, Thierry Bouvet sells a portion of his fish to local originally made in hemp (nowadays nylon) with restaurateurs and also produces some speci- wicker frames (hemp and wicker are, respec- alities such as smoked wild catfish fillets, wild tively, the flagship trades in Bréhémont and fish fritters from the Loire, and even bottarga its neighbouring village Villaines-les-Rochers) (salted, dried mullet egg bag, traditionally found To round off his activity, Romain Gadais also in Mediterranean countries). dons a chef’s hat to prepare the produce that His ambition today is to reintroduce garum, a he sells in his workshop ‘Pêcheries ligériennes’. lacto-fermented fish sauce with Roman origins. His speciality is rillettes and wild fish soup. This ‘Nuoc-mam Tourangeau’ is part of a desire In summer 2017, he teamed up with Chef to create a simple and clean transformed Ambroise Voreux and opened a restaurant in product. This condiment was prepared with Bréhémont, La Cabane à Matelot, where his or other plentiful local fish (anchovies, fish are given pride of place. On the menu: fried sardines). Thierry Bouvet is currently developing bleak and gudgeon, carpaccio of carp, mullet the project with fish from the Loire, such as carp fish and chips or a Loire burger. or catfish (a historical nod to St , Find the fresh fish and other produce from these a son of Panonie, who, according to Thierry fishermen in local restaurants, AMAP agricultur- Bouvet, probably enhanced his catfish feeding, al association and grocers. the emblematic fish of the Danube). Still on

33

WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR Clémentine Chauveau MADE IN TOURS MADE IN TOURS

SUR LA BRANCHE 2 BIS, PLACE DE LA OUR TASTTY VICTOIRE 37000 TOURS +33 (0)9 87 36 51 31

FROM TUESDAY TO FRIDAY Sur la Branche La Caf'tière 10:00 - 1:30pm Opening in 2017, this grocers off ers spices to washing powder, soap, and In October 2016, the roaster Charles RECOMMENDATIONS organic, local and bulk products. some fresh products. You could fi ll Do Vale, a member of the Culinary SATURDAY 10:00am - 7:00pm With a ‘zero waste’ and locavore your containers with quinoa, College of France, settled into a approach, Anne-Gwénolée Tu off ers Verneuil butter, Jean Hervé's organic charming shop in the Place de la customers the opportunity to come chocolate spread, and add a bottle Resistance in Tours. His concept and shop with their own jars, cloth of vegetable soup from St Genouph, was to sell high quality Arabica bags, iron boxes, etc. or with return- Chedigny yoghurts or some Touraine coff ees (from around twenty places), able containers. No fewer than 500 beer, such as P'tite Maiz or Loere, to always from small producers. These products are on off er, from pasta, your basket. small amounts are hand-roasted by rice, fl our, biscuits, oils, cereals and Charles do Vale, with his ‘vintage’ machine dating from 1975, in his BISCUITHÉ workshop located a few streets away. 25, RUE GAMBETTA The roaster works with his precious 37190 AZAY-LE-RIDEAU grains according to his moods and +33 (0)2 47 05 99 81 the seasons. The India Malabar Arabica, for OPEN EVERY DAY MAISON CLÉMENT example, is a rather winter coff ee, 10:00am - 7:00pm Biscuithé Au Roy Gourmet HALLES CENTRALES which lingers in the mouth. It is a hot, very spicy coff ee. On the other This biscuit factory was opened homemade sorbet, as well as a Since 1988 in Tours covered market 37000 TOURS +33 (0)2 47 53 98 42 hand, the Barahona Arabica from in 2016 by Alain Bodin, owner of range of organic teas and infusions. [Les Halles], and at many markets of the Dominican Republic doesn’t the superb patisserie Au Royal Delicious and nostalgic favourites Indre et Loire, Franck Bourdeau has MONDAY last as long in the mouth, and it Chocolat in Azay-le-Rideau. At are the raspberry barquette (an been selling meat that would even 9:00am - 7:30pm Maison Clément has a pep and freshness perfect for Biscuithé, homemade cookies, hand artisan version of the Barquette de make a vegetarian’s mouth water! summer. The coff ees are available Created in 2010 by the three confectionery and other Iberian decorated and made, are cooked Lu from our childhood), the old-fash- The artisan production laboratory is FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY in beans, ground or in 100% recycla- 9:00am - 7:30pm Clément brothers in Tours covered pork cuts. In our gourmet basket we daily. The raw materials are mainly ioned macaroons, the little butter located around the place des Halles ble capsules, Nespresso compatible. market, this delicatessen has a have: some Mille & Une artisan jam, organic and local: Touraine farm biscuits, the speculoos, and the de Tours, just a stone’s throw from And to accompany your coff ee, try SUNDAY selection of fi ne products from the produced in Chinon with fruit gath- eggs, Fontevraud fl our, Verneuil homemade Viennese shortbread the shop. the pastéis de nata, little Portuguese 9:00am - 1:00pm region and further afi eld, as well ered from private orchards, whole butter... Other high quality ingredi- biscuits with a sandy and melting The raw materials come mainly from fl ans, handmade by the boss. ents are included, such as Piedmont texture at the same time, in a plain Touraine suppliers, but this pork as a range of fi ne wines, beers and duck foie gras, jars of 100% natural hazelnuts, Guérande salt or Valence version or coated with chocolate. butcher also selects pigs from spirits. House specialities include vegetable from Monsieur Appert, almonds. In the pleasant tea room, or . duck and goose produtcs, prepared 100% French gherkins from the you can enjoy an ice cream or Among the many specialities, favour- on the family farm in Ballan-Miré. Maison Marc (there are fewer than ites for aperitifs, there is the fi let Although the semi-cooked foie gras, ten gherkin producers in France), mignon of smoked pork with noble tinned goods, terrines, sausag- and the Fondant Baulois (with its LA CAF'TIÈRE wood (beech or oak), the shoulder es and prepared dishes from the fi ne meringue crust, melting texture knuckle joint, a small cut of pork that farm represent their solid base, the and salted butter caramel tip). 14, PLACE DE LA RÉSISTANCE is so precious and little known, with a Maison Clément also off ers condi- 37000 TOURS great tenderness, confi t it at will, the ments, vinegars, olive oils, biscuits, +33 (0)9 80 77 10 88 AU GRÉ DU LAIT house dried sausage, and the rillons, AVENUE VATEL FROM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY confi t of pork cooked served cold, in 08:30am - 12:00am 37000 TOURS a standard size or mini version. 2:00PM - 6:30PM +33 (0)2 47 53 98 42 Other temptations include the home- made brioche garnished with sausages TUESDAY: MONTBAZON pistachio or sweetbreads. TRITICUM WEDNESDAY: TOURS COTY AND AU GRÉ DU LAIT TOURS RAILWAY STATION JOUÉ RÉPUBLIQUE Dominique and Caroline Desserre and covered with dried wild fl owers 37000 TOURS FRIDAY: ST CYR SUR LOIRE are a feature at the markets in the from alpine pastures. SATURDAY: TOURS COTY AND Tours urban region, with their two Regarding the blue cheeses, the FRIDAY JOUÉ VALLÉE VIOLETTE lorries dedicated to dairy products. Gex blue is the fi rst unpasteurised 3:30pm - 7:00pm SUNDAY: TOURS RABELAIS Their have an organic and a healthy cow's milk cheese with a PDO. It is a Triticum AND JOUÉ RÉPUBLIQUE AU ROY GOURMET agriculture approach. It is with this soft blue, light with a hint of salt and HALLES CENTRALES, Since June 2017, Thibaud Férard has supplied by the Moulin de Sarré (a same spirit that Dominique, passion- mushroom. 37000 TOURS been operating a travelling bakery, family business near ), where ate about wines, off ers some ‘natural’ Other beautiful local, French and +33 (0)2 47 38 54 09 with a scooter which he made it is crushed from Touraine wheat on bottles. The pair refi ne some of the foreign specialities are available, as himself, which he sets up in a stone millstone. goats cheeses, soft cheeses and well as quality dairy and delicatessen FROM TUESDAY TO THURSDAY every Friday after- Among the beautiful breads St-Marcellin. products (yoghurts, churn butter, 7:30AM - 1:30PM noon. He bakes his loaves in a presented are: Triticum bread (a A fantastic discovery is the tomme jams, sausages...) 3:00PM - 7:00PM friend’s bread oven near the station. ‘country’ loaf), bread with two spelts, with Tyrol wildfl owers, an Austrian Trained at the Compagnons du rye bread, Norwegian... All the loaves cheese made with whole cow’s milk FRIDAY AND SATURDAY 7:30AM - 7:00PM Devoir, Thibaud has developed have a touch of acidity due to natu- his expertise through contact with ral leavening, are well baked and SUNDAY seasoned professionals. have a crispy crust. 07:00 - 1:00PM 34 All the raw materials are organic and 35 as local as possible, including fl our Lydie DELICIOUS CURIOSITIES GOURMET ACTIVITIES

3 - Visiting a vineyard Visit the family vineyard, from the vine to the glass. You will find about the wine grower’s -profes sion, the life cycle of a vine and the troglodyte DELICIOUS cellars, on a guided walking tour (circuit of about 2 km). It will be rounded off with a tasting of Touraine wines served with regional dishes (cheese, cold meats). For the youngest, there is a treasure hunt, fun awakening of the senses and blind tasting. CURIOSITIES Every day, departure at 10:00am or 3:30pm All activities and booking on www.rdvdanslesvignes.com Vignoble Alain Robert, Charmigny • 37210 CHANCAY Prices: Adult from €39.90 - Child (over 6 years old): from €12.90

4- Délices des champs, organic oils In Tours, sampling the local food doesn’t necessarily mean a visit to a gourmet restaurant! Recently established at the Paternelle farm, where For maximum cultural discovery, we have a few ideas to help you enjoy an unusual culi- he produces his cold extracted virgin oils, Julien gives nary experience or awaken your curiosity for taste... you a warm welcome. Together with Plantes de la Sévaudière (syrups and herbal teas) and Les savons d'Amélie (soaps), workshops are available on the farm. You can discover the secrets of the manufacturing and Le Grand Repas taste local produce which is sold in their delicatessen. Established locally in 2016, Le Grand Repas unites people with a single menu served at 400 sites within the Loire Valley (including schools, work canteens, retirement Reservations on +33 (0)6 31 80 75 94 10 rue du Petit Bois • 37390 homes...). The association of “Tours Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie en Val de Rates: variable according to activity Loire”, is proposing this year yet another menu representing its core values: taste ed- ucation, reducing food waste, promoting local produce... If that appeals, then the date 5- The Hallard confectioners for your diary is 18th October 2018. TOP 5 An artisan confectioners where you will discover all kinds of delicacies, including lollipops, nougat, fruit jelly, chocolates, and many more.Watch Aperitif visits at the Tour Charlemagne a demonstration of how the sweets are made, sugar blending with natural flavours. A return to childhood The Tour Charlemagne of “ancient Tours”, built in the 12th Century, affords views over GOURMET with forgotten sweet flavours for you to enjoy. the town from a great height. Special visits have been created: After a guided tour of the historic monument, enjoy a mouth-watering tasting session (crushed pear ter- Visits from Monday to Friday from 10:00am to 12:00 and 2:30pm to rine, rillons from Tours, Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine goats cheese...) accompanied with 6:00pm from June to August. Only open during the afternoons during the short school holidays. a glass of local wine. This is a great way to combine a visit to a heritage building and Reservations on +33 (0)6 31 80 75 94 experience a bit of local food culture! 10 rue du Petit Bois • 37390 METTRAY ACTIVITIES Rates: variable according to activity To book please contact the Tourism Office or visitwww.tours-tourisme.fr

Aperitif Loire Cruise After enjoying a drink at the top of the tower, you can also enjoy an aperitif on the water! The Boutavant company offers boat trips on the Loire, all summer long. During a relaxing river cruise lasting 1 hour, a hamper of Touraine specialities, all made from 1- Chant de Blé, flour producers fresh produce, accompanies you on your tour. A unique al fresco tasting experience for you to try! Every Thursday during summer, from 5:00pm to 7:00pm, you will discover To book please contact the Tourism Office or visitwww.tours-tourisme.fr the milling workshop, and saffron, truffles and honey cultivation in a village with an enigmatic spirit. Following this walk, you share a gourmet aperitif with local flavours: toast with truffle butter, saffron cake, goats cheese, foie gras, 7 Vins 7 Jardins accompanied by Safrandisiaque: Touraine rosé with saffron syrup. The TO of Tours and the international City of Gastronomy are inviting you in 7 gardens Reservations on +33 (0)6 47 70 47 11 or at www.chantdeble.fr of Tours for the 2nd year from June, 22nd to August, 17th. Le gros Buisson • 37800 SAINT EPAIN You will discover at least 7 grapes varieties and wine designations during 7 dates in Prices: Adult: €13 - Child: €9.50, under 5s: € 5 summertime. Enjoy an unique moment with a fruity note held by 7 differents wine producers from Touraine. 2- L'orangerie de Château Gaillard “Info and Resa” : www.tours-tourisme.fr After having been forgotten, and thanks to a huge project by craftsmen and women, this site was opened to the pubic again in 2016. This is a unique area for lovers of nature, heritage and the history of France. For a tasty visit: taste and enjoy citrus fruits, citrus and local produce tasting: wines, goats cheese, oranges and chocolate.

Reservations on +33 (0)2 47 30 33 29 For more information, visit: www.chateau-gaillard-amboise.fr 29 allée du pont Moulin • 37400 AMBOISE Rates: From €45 per person 36

WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR Clémentine Chauveau IT’S FROM RIGHT HERE AND OVER THERE TASTY CURIOSITIES

IT’S FROM RIGHT HERE THE RILLETTES Tours WAR vs AND OVER THERE Le Mans

IT COMES FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE, BUT IT’S HERE

Terre Exotique THE ORIGINS Created in 1998 by Erwann de Kerros, distributed, the range is now made up On this point we think we have to declare a draw because rillettes were originally a product of the great west, from the brand sells spices, peppers, berries, of more than 400 products, constant- , just as much as from Touraine or Anjou. This pedantry is lost in the mists of time, homemade from the butch- seeds, and other wild dried fruits. Terre ly enriched by new favourites gleaned ered pig and eaten at home, the archives show no trace of them. There is no record of rillettes as we know them, and Exotique is found on the banks of the from this Breton’s travels and those of called as such, until the 18th century - a comic opera in Tours in 1724 featured, in particular, a rillonnière selling rills Loire, in Rochecorbon, and the brand is his team. and rillettes. sold around the world in the best deli- By making these products of excellence catessens. Let the adventure begin: the accessible, Terre Exotique is becoming FAME plantation of Penja, Cameroon, where more widely known among amateur In Le Lys dans la vallée (1835), Balzac’s hero, Félix de Vandenesse Erwann de Kerros spend four years cooks, starred chefs, new converts and enthuses about, "The famous rillettes and rillons of Tours," appreciated by studying ‘pepperculture’. From just a few professionals, with its oils, spices, salts the petty bourgeoisie but never seen on aristocratic tables - "I had never had bags of Penja pepper brought back and and condiments. the joy of seeing this brown jam on a slice of bread before me." Local pres- tige? Not just local, the rillettes of Tours then achieved a national fame which would last throughout the 19th century and even beyond - they were sold The Maison du Mochi in luxury grocers’ shops in the capital. But this star started to slowly fade with Established in the pretty village of Saint- can be flavoured with essential oils such the rise of the Le Mans rillettes. This was because they had entered the indus- Martin-le-Beau, the Maison du Mochi as yuzu, natural flavours such as berga- trial age. Albert Lhuissier was a pioneer. He opened his delicatessen in 1900 offers on line sales of mochis, tradition- mot, or topped with almond puree or in Connerré (25km east of Le Mans), bought an abattoir and developed al Japanese rice cakes. Workshops are black sesame. Mathilda Motte chose to deliveries to Paris, even creating a factory for this purpose. History has learned regularly organised. After living in Japan, work with mainly organic raw materials. that he was able to take advantage of long train stops at the city's train station to Mathilda Motte decided to introduce the With its feminine and velvety tea-time sell his rillettes to Parisian travellers. He was a trailblazer. delicate and powdery world of mochi to feel, the mochi is akin to the macaroon. It This commercial dynamism finally made Sarthe the homeland of the rillette. Tours France. This speciality is a very soft ball, is however much less sweet, totally plant never stopped making them, but the aura of its "brown jam" was decreased little composed of a glutinous rice coating based and gluten free. by little to just the department. However, surely the Protected Geographical Indi- and a centre that is traditionally based cation (PGI) for "rillettes de Tours", awarded in 2013, should be seen as a sign of on a sweet bean paste, which could be renewed vitality? anko (red bean paste called azukis) or shiroan (white bean paste). These fillings RECIPE What are rillettes? It is minced pork meat cooked in pork fat. The texture cannot be matched, due to the fibres that separate when you bite in to it and the pieces of varying dimensions that melt in the mouth. IT HAS OUR NAME BUT IT’S NOT FROM ROUND HERE MEAT La Tourangelle All rillettes are based on lean pork or sow meat and fat (a sow being a female pig having already had at least one preg- La Tourangelle oil mill is located near Sau- In 2002, La Tourangelle decided to go glob- nancy). The quality depends on the quality of the meat and the cuts, noble or not, which are used. mur, in the heart of the Loire Valley. Its al by establishing a new production site in creation dates back to the end of the 19th California, the world’s number one pro- COOKING century, with the foundation of a small mill ducer of walnuts. Beyond the unmissable In Touraine, the initial browning and the final blast give the famous brown colour that is ‘rillettes’. An important point, driven by a horse to produce walnut oil. best-sellers, the walnut oil and organic vir- in Touraine, rillettes are always cooked uncovered, whereas in the Sarthe it is more normal to cover them with a lid. Since the 1990s, the brand has expanded gin coconut oil, La Tourangelle offers a rich It is the cooking method that has made it a drier pork dish than its Le Mans cousin. In any case, on both sides of the considerably with the Kohlmeyer family. and varied range, with various flavours: border, the total cooking time varies between six and thirteen hours depending on who is cooking. They believe in keeping the artisan exper- avocado, sesame, hazelnut, almond, and tise in walnut oil production, but adapting pistachio, in particular. The brand is distrib- EXTRAS it to modern techniques which respond to uted in fifty or so companies. In Touraine, the addition of white wine - a chenin grape - is authorised and often done. Another original and current stricter quality controls. addition is Patrelle aroma, an onion reduction, which is used to shade and accentuate the colour of the finished prod- uct.

38 Terre Exotique La Maison du Mochi La Tourangelle 39 61 Quai de la Loire Rue de la Gare 11 route du bois de la Casse 37210 Rochecorbon 37270 Saint-Martin-le-Beau ZAC de La Ronde 49680 Neuillé www.terreexotique.fr www.maisondumochi.fr www.latourangelle.fr WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR GOURMET CALENDAR 2018

> Week of wine and vine > Vitiloire from 19th March to 7th April 26th to 27th May Saint-Cyr-sur-Loire Cravant-les-Côteaux

> Poets’ gourmet springtime > Change what you eat 22nd March from 20th June to 11st September Villa Rabelais - Tours Villa Rabelais - Tours

> 16th Bourgueil wine festival > 7 Vins 7 Jardins 24th March 22nd June, 29th June, 6th July, 13rd Boulevard Heurteloup - Tours July, 20th July, 10th August, 17th August > Nowruz Festival, Uzbekistan traditional cuisine >Steak fair 28th March 23rd to 24th June Villa Rabelais - Tours Saint-Genouph

> Tasting evenings: Easter > Aperitif Gabare 28th March from 4th July to 30th August Rochecorbon Tours

> Why choose organic, local and > Aperitif Tours Charlemagne seasonal produce? 6th July, 13th July, 20th July, 27th July, 29th March 3th August, 10th August, 17th August Tour Charlemagne - Tours > Vinaviva 7th to 8th April > Oil and vinegar fair GOURMET CALENDAR OF TOURS VAL DE LOIRE Saint-Étienne-de-Chigny 26th July Place Châteauneuf - Tours > Foire de Tours du 4 mai au 13 mai > Goût de France Parc des Expositions - Tours from 21st to 23th September

> Foire de Tours (Tours Fair) > Le Grand Repas from 4th to 13th May 18th October Guingette - Tours

40 WWW.TOURS-TOURISME.FR