Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 440 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS David Eimer Thanks to Sarah Reid and all the LP crew. As Many thanks to the travellers who used ever, much gratitude to everyone who passed the last edition and wrote to us with on tips, whether knowingly or unwittingly. helpful hints, useful advice and inter- esting anecdotes: Danny Wongworawat, Damian Harper Dennis Vervlossen, Jamison Firestone, Jilly Many thanks to all who eased the way and MacPherson, Kaori Hashimoto, Kerry Colmer, came up with ideas, help and suggestions; Virginia Scott most notably, gratitude to Neal Bambridge, Charoon Juntra, Brigitte Gomm, Matt Rubin, Jessica Meier, Eveline Fortuin, Amanda, Su- AUTHOR THANKS watchai Praesomboon, Stanley Chang and Mark Beales Mark Tewari. Loved the company of the charm- ing family on the train from Hat Yai to Surat First, thanks to Sarah Reid for offering me the Thani, you are fine people and I wish you every chance to return to this guide. In Bang Saen, good fortune. Cheers also to my brother and Michiel and Mynd had some great tips and Thailand enthusiast, John. Thanks to Daisy, on Ko Kut, Seren was a star. On Ko Chang, Tim and Emma, as always. thanks to Ian, Lisa and Olivier, who all helped immensely while Eric and Issac had some great Isabella Noble ideas. The staff at TAT were as helpful as ever, Thanks to everyone who helped out on the especially K.Suladda and K.Kesorn. Lastly, road, whether knowingly or not, particularly thanks to Ann and Daniel. Jamie Monk and Lee Cobaj for the stellar Austin Bush Phuket intel. Cheers to Paul on Ko Phayam, elephant-expert John Roberts, the Gibbon My thanks to the previous authors of this Rehab Project crew and Ann for Thai language guide, Andrew Burke, Joe Cummings and China tips. Thanks to my hardworking co-authors, Williams – believe it or not, some of your words especially fellow island experts Mark Beales live on!; Destination Editor Sarah Reid; part- and Damian Harper. Extra special thanks to time research assistants Kathy MacLeod and Andrew, Raquel and Papi for pitching in, and to Maher Sattar; and the rest of the kind folks on my favourite research assistant, Jack Noble. the ground in Bangkok. 441 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Illustrations pp58–9 and pp64–5 by BEHIND THE SCENES Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Ko Phi-Phi islands, Jack Malipan Travel Photography/Alamy ©. THIS BOOK Destination Editor Sarah Book Designer Cam Ashley Reid Language Content This 10th edition of Lonely Product Editors Joel Branislava Vladisavljevic Planet’s Thailand’s Islands & Cotterell, Elin Berglund Cover Research Naomi Beaches guidebook was re- Assisting Editors Susie Parker searched and written by Mark Ashworth, Melanie Dankel, Thanks to Joe Bindloss, Beales, Austin Bush, David Bruce Evans, Simon Daniel Corbett, Andi Jones, Eimer, Damian Harper and Williamson Anne Mason, Wayne Murphy, Isabella Noble. This guidebook Regional Senior Cartogra- Karyn Noble, Alison Ridgway, was produced by the following: pher Diana Von Holdt Luna Soo, Angela Tinson, Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 442 Index A area codes 419 Bangkok continued bus travel 423, 424-5 Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall art galleries, see museums Riverside 84 business hours 416 68-9 & galleries Sathon 80-1, 86, 88, 68-9 accommodation 21-2, 411- arts 380-3, see also books, scams 95 film, theatre C 12, see also individual shopping 91-9 locations ATMs 415 car travel 19, 423, 425-6 Siam Square 80, 86-7, language 435 Ayuthaya kingdom 365-6 driving licences 425 74-5 hire 425 activities 23-5, see also sights 56-69 individual activities insurance 425 Silom 80-1, 86, 88, air travel 422-3, 424 B 68-9 language 438 bà·mèe 48, 392, Sukhumvit 81, 86-7, 88-9, airlines 20 392 caves Ban Bang Bao 125 70-1 airports 20, 422 Ao Khanom 230 Ban Krut 167-9 tailors 92 fares 422-3 Khao Sok National Park Ban Phe 112-13 Thonburi 56-62, 75-6, to/from Thailand 422-3 257 Ban Salak Phet 126 83-5, 87, 60-1 within Thailand 424 Ko Lanta 327 Ban Si Raya 327 toilets 94 alcohol 390 Ko Muk 342 Bang Saen 101 tourist information 94 Chalong Bay Rum 287 Ko Phi-Phi Leh 325 Bang Saphan Yai 167-9 tours 72-3 wine 152 Ko Tarutao 352 Bangkok 15, 54-99, 55, 78-9 travel seasons 54 Railay 311 Andaman Coast 52, 243- travel to/from 94-6 358, 244-5 accommodation 54, 74-83 Tham Kaew 162 travel within 96-9 accommodation 243 activities 69 Tham Khao Bandai-It 143 bargaining 19, 418 climate 243 Banglamphu 56-62, 75-6, Tham Khao Luang 142 83-5, 87, bathrooms 420 food 243 60-1 Tham Phraya Nakhon 162 children, travel with 73 beaches 20, 21, 34-40 highlights 244-5 Tham Sai 162 Chinatown 62-3, 76-80, beer 390 Ang Thong Marine National cell phones 419 85, 87 bicycle travel, see cycling Park 226-7 censorship 375 climate 54 Big Buddha 288 animals 148, 396-7, 409-10, Cha-am 147-9 see also wildlife, individ- courses 69-72 birdwatching Chalong Bay Rum 287 drinking & nightlife Cha-am 147 ual species Chanthaburi 118-21, 119 87-9, 91 Khao Sam Roi Yot volunteering 127 Chatuchak Weekend emergencies 93 National Park 162 Ao Bang Thao 298-300, 298 Market 93 entertainment 89-90 Black May demonstrations Ao Khanom 230-2 child prostitution 385 events 74 370 Ao Nang 307-10 children, travel with 49-50 festivals 74 Bo Phut 185-6, 184 Ao Phang-Nga 15, 265-9, Bangkok 73 food 54, 83-7 boat cruises 265, 15 food 50 gay travellers 89 Ao Phang-Nga 265 Ao Phang-Nga National Park Phuket 276 highlights 55 Bangkok 72-3 266-7 safety 50 history 55 Ko Phi-Phi Don 319 aquariums Chinese New Year 23 internet access 93 boat travel 424 Phuket Aquarium 281 chow lair 382 Siam Ocean World 92 itineraries 56 books 360, 365, 377, 383 Chumphon 169-72, 170 Songkhla Aquarium 234 Ko Ratanakosin 56-62, border crossings 417, 423-4 churches & cathedrals architecture 382-3, see also 75-6, 83-5, 87, 60-1 Cambodia 118, 124, 133 Cathedral (Chanthaburi) palaces LGBT travellers 89 Malaysia 242, 347 118-19 medical services 94 Myanmar 248 climate 16, 23-5, 412, see money 94 boxing, see moo·ay tai also individual regions Map Pages 000 Phahurat 62-3, 76-80, Buddhism 378-9, 403-4 climbing, see rock climbing 85, 87 Photo Pages 000 budget 17, 411, 414 clothing 18 443 coffee 389, 390 diving & snorkelling exchange rates 17 Hat Noppharat Thara 310 conservation 44, 397, 398- continued Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu 402, 410 Khao Lak 258-60 Ko Phi-Phi National consulates 413-14 Ko Chang (Andaman F Park 310 festivals & events 23-5, Coast) 249-50 Hat Patong 291-5, cooking courses 46 see also individual 292 Bangkok 69-70 Ko Chang (Eastern locations Hat Sai Noi 159 Seaboard) 128 INDEX Hat Kata 286 Chinese New Year 23, 74 Hat Surin 296-8, 298 Ko Jum 325 Hat Patong 291 Hua Hin Jazz Festival Hat Tham Phang 106 Hua Hin 154 Ko Lanta 327-8 24, 154 Hat Yai 235-7 Ko Lipe 354-5 Ko Chang (Eastern King’s Birthday 25, 74 health 428-33 C-K Seaboard) 128 Ko Ngai 340 Loi Krathong 24, 74 books 428 Ko Lanta 328 Ko Pha-Ngan 197-8 Pattaya International children’s 433 Ko Phi-Phi Don 319 Ko Phayam 251 Music Festival 23, 109 insurance 428 Ko Samui 179 Ko Phi-Phi Don 20, Songkran 23, 74 internet resources 428 316-18 Phuket Town 276-7 Vegetarian Festival vaccinations 428 Ko Samui 178-9 costs, see budget 24, 74 hepatitis 430 Ko Tao 13 counterfeit goods 418 film 360, 381 hiking 22, 38-9 Ko Yao 267 courses, see also cooking food 21, 45-8, 386-91, 392- history 362-75 Phuket Island 269 5, see also individual courses Ayuthaya kingdom 365-6 Railay 312 locations acrobatics 213 Black May costs 414 diving 43, 214 Ranong 246 demonstrations 370 language 435-7 language 180 safety 42-3 Thai massage 403-4 southern Thai cuisine moo·ay tai 72, 109, 179- Similan Islands Marine hitching 426 National Park 262-3, 188 80, 215 14 HIV 430 supplies 93 freediving 43, 213 underwater photogra- holidays 416 phy 213 Surin Islands Marine fruit 387, 389 hot springs 246 credit cards 415 National Park 254-5, 14 Full Moon Parties 199, Hua Hin 52, 149-59, 150, culture 376-7, 378, 391, wrecks 20 208-9 160 408, 409 dolphins 230-1 accommodation 155-6 currency 415-16 Ao Khanom 230-1 G activities 153-4 customs regulations 412-13 dôm yam 392, 392 gà·teu·i 89 drinking 157-8 cutaneous larva migrans drinks 389-90 gaang kĕe·o wăhn 392 entertainment 157-8 430 language 435-7 galleries, see museums & food 156-7 cycling 424 driving, see car travel galleries medical services 158 Bangkok 72 drugs 417 gay travellers 89, 414 sights 150-3 Hat Kata 286 dugongs 344