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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS David Eimer Thanks to Sarah Reid and all the LP crew. As Many thanks to the travellers who used ever, much gratitude to everyone who passed the last edition and wrote to us with on tips, whether knowingly or unwittingly. helpful hints, useful advice and inter- esting anecdotes: Danny Wongworawat, Damian Harper Dennis Vervlossen, Jamison Firestone, Jilly Many thanks to all who eased the way and MacPherson, Kaori Hashimoto, Kerry Colmer, came up with ideas, help and suggestions; Virginia Scott most notably, gratitude to Neal Bambridge, Charoon Juntra, Brigitte Gomm, Matt Rubin, Jessica Meier, Eveline Fortuin, Amanda, Su- AUTHOR THANKS watchai Praesomboon, Stanley Chang and Mark Beales Mark Tewari. Loved the company of the charm- ing family on the train from Hat Yai to Surat First, thanks to Sarah Reid for offering me the Thani, you are fine people and I wish you every chance to return to this guide. In Bang Saen, good fortune. Cheers also to my brother and Michiel and Mynd had some great tips and enthusiast, John. Thanks to Daisy, on Ko Kut, Seren was a star. On Ko Chang, Tim and Emma, as always. thanks to Ian, Lisa and Olivier, who all helped immensely while Eric and Issac had some great Isabella Noble ideas. The staff at TAT were as helpful as ever, Thanks to everyone who helped out on the especially K.Suladda and K.Kesorn. Lastly, road, whether knowingly or not, particularly thanks to Ann and Daniel. Jamie Monk and Lee Cobaj for the stellar Austin Bush Phuket intel. Cheers to Paul on Ko Phayam, elephant-expert John Roberts, the Gibbon My thanks to the previous authors of this Rehab Project crew and Ann for Thai language guide, Andrew Burke, Joe Cummings and China tips. Thanks to my hardworking co-authors, Williams – believe it or not, some of your words especially fellow island experts Mark Beales live on!; Destination Editor Sarah Reid; part- and Damian Harper. Extra special thanks to time research assistants Kathy MacLeod and Andrew, Raquel and Papi for pitching in, and to Maher Sattar; and the rest of the kind folks on my favourite research assistant, Jack Noble. the ground in Bangkok. 441 BEHIND THE SCENES Naomi Naomi Cam Ashley Joe Bindloss, Joe Bindloss, Lauren Wellicome Lauren Book Designer Book Content Language Vladisavljevic Branislava Research Cover Parker to Thanks Andi Daniel Jones, Corbett, Murphy, Anne Wayne Mason, Alison Karyn Ridgway, Noble, Tinson, Angela Luna Soo, -

Sarah Sarah Susie Susie

Joel -

Diana Von Holdt Diana Von Destination Editor Reid Editors Product Elin Berglund Cotterell, Assisting Editors Melanie Ashworth, Dankel, Simon Bruce Evans, Williamson Cartogra Senior Regional pher - Hydrology and Earth System System and Earth Hydrology , 11, 1633–44. 11, , Thailand’s Islands & & Islands Thailand’s guidebook was re was guidebook Illustrations pp58–9 and pp64–5 by by pp58–9 and pp64–5 Illustrations Jack islands, Phi-Phi Ko photograph: Cover Isabella Noble. This guidebook guidebook This Noble. Isabella following: the by produced was Planet’s Planet’s Beaches Mark by written and searched Austin Bush, David Beales, Damian Harper Eimer, and THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Michael Weldon. ©. Photography/Alamy Travel Malipan Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, MC, Peel from adapted data map Climate ‘Updat (2007) TA & McMahon BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger of Map World ed Classification’, Sciences ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 442

Index

A area codes 419 Bangkok continued bus travel 423, 424-5 Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall art galleries, see museums Riverside 84 business hours 416 68-9 & galleries Sathon 80-1, 86, 88, 68-9 accommodation 21-2, 411- arts 380-3, see also books, scams 95 film, theatre C 12, see also individual shopping 91-9 locations ATMs 415 car travel 19, 423, 425-6 Siam Square 80, 86-7, language 435 Ayuthaya kingdom 365-6 driving licences 425 74-5 hire 425 activities 23-5, see also sights 56-69 individual activities insurance 425 Silom 80-1, 86, 88, air travel 422-3, 424 B 68-9 language 438 bà·mèe 48, 392, Sukhumvit 81, 86-7, 88-9, airlines 20 392 caves Ban Bang Bao 125 70-1 airports 20, 422 Ao Khanom 230 Ban Krut 167-9 tailors 92 fares 422-3 Khao Sok National Park Ban Phe 112-13 Thonburi 56-62, 75-6, to/from Thailand 422-3 257 Ban Salak Phet 126 83-5, 87, 60-1 within Thailand 424 Ko Lanta 327 Ban Si Raya 327 toilets 94 alcohol 390 Ko Muk 342 Bang Saen 101 tourist information 94 Chalong Bay Rum 287 Ko Phi-Phi Leh 325 Bang Saphan Yai 167-9 tours 72-3 wine 152 Ko Tarutao 352 Bangkok 15, 54-99, 55, 78-9 travel seasons 54 Railay 311 Andaman Coast 52, 243- travel to/from 94-6 358, 244-5 accommodation 54, 74-83 Tham Kaew 162 travel within 96-9 accommodation 243 activities 69 Tham Khao Bandai-It 143 bargaining 19, 418 climate 243 Banglamphu 56-62, 75-6, Tham 142 83-5, 87, bathrooms 420 food 243 60-1 Tham Phraya Nakhon 162 children, travel with 73 beaches 20, 21, 34-40 highlights 244-5 Tham Sai 162 Chinatown 62-3, 76-80, beer 390 Ang Thong Marine National cell phones 419 85, 87 bicycle travel, see cycling Park 226-7 censorship 375 climate 54 Big Buddha 288 animals 148, 396-7, 409-10, Cha-am 147-9 see also wildlife, individ- courses 69-72 birdwatching Chalong Bay Rum 287 drinking & nightlife Cha-am 147 ual species Chanthaburi 118-21, 119 87-9, 91 Khao Sam Roi Yot volunteering 127 Chatuchak Weekend emergencies 93 National Park 162 Ao Bang Thao 298-300, 298 Market 93 entertainment 89-90 Black May demonstrations Ao Khanom 230-2 child prostitution 385 events 74 370 Ao Nang 307-10 children, travel with 49-50 festivals 74 Bo Phut 185-6, 184 Ao Phang-Nga 15, 265-9, Bangkok 73 food 54, 83-7 boat cruises 265, 15 food 50 gay travellers 89 Ao Phang-Nga 265 Ao Phang-Nga National Park Phuket 276 highlights 55 Bangkok 72-3 266-7 safety 50 history 55 Ko Phi-Phi Don 319 aquariums Chinese New Year 23 internet access 93 boat travel 424 Phuket Aquarium 281 chow lair 382 Siam Ocean World 92 itineraries 56 books 360, 365, 377, 383 Chumphon 169-72, 170 Songkhla Aquarium 234 Ko Ratanakosin 56-62, border crossings 417, 423-4 churches & cathedrals architecture 382-3, see also 75-6, 83-5, 87, 60-1 118, 124, 133 Cathedral (Chanthaburi) palaces LGBT travellers 89 242, 347 118-19 medical services 94 248 climate 16, 23-5, 412, see money 94 boxing, see moo·ay tai also individual regions Map Pages 000 Phahurat 62-3, 76-80, Buddhism 378-9, 403-4 climbing, see rock climbing 85, 87 Photo Pages 000 budget 17, 411, 414 clothing 18 443 coffee 389, 390 diving & snorkelling exchange rates 17 Hat Noppharat Thara 310 conservation 44, 397, 398- continued Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu 402, 410 Khao Lak 258-60 Ko Phi-Phi National consulates 413-14 Ko Chang (Andaman F Park 310 festivals & events 23-5, Coast) 249-50 Hat Patong 291-5, cooking courses 46 see also individual 292 Bangkok 69-70 Ko Chang (Eastern locations Hat Sai Noi 159

Seaboard) 128 INDEX Hat Kata 286 Chinese New Year 23, 74 Hat Surin 296-8, 298 Ko Jum 325 Hat Patong 291 Hua Hin Jazz Festival Hat Tham Phang 106 Hua Hin 154 Ko Lanta 327-8 24, 154 Hat Yai 235-7 Ko Lipe 354-5 Ko Chang (Eastern King’s Birthday 25, 74 health 428-33  C-K Seaboard) 128 Ko Ngai 340 Loi Krathong 24, 74 books 428  Ko Lanta 328 Ko Pha-Ngan 197-8 Pattaya International children’s 433 Ko Phi-Phi Don 319 Ko Phayam 251 Music Festival 23, 109 insurance 428 Ko Samui 179 Ko Phi-Phi Don 20, Songkran 23, 74 internet resources 428 316-18 Phuket Town 276-7 Vegetarian Festival vaccinations 428 Ko Samui 178-9 costs, see budget 24, 74 hepatitis 430 Ko Tao 13 counterfeit goods 418 film 360, 381 hiking 22, 38-9 Ko Yao 267 courses, see also cooking food 21, 45-8, 386-91, 392- history 362-75 Phuket Island 269 5, see also individual courses Ayuthaya kingdom 365-6 Railay 312 locations acrobatics 213 Black May costs 414 diving 43, 214 Ranong 246 demonstrations 370 language 435-7 language 180 safety 42-3 Thai massage 403-4 southern Thai cuisine moo·ay tai 72, 109, 179- Marine hitching 426 National Park 262-3, 188 80, 215 14 HIV 430 supplies 93 freediving 43, 213 underwater photogra- holidays 416 phy 213 Marine fruit 387, 389 hot springs 246 credit cards 415 National Park 254-5, 14 Full Moon Parties 199, Hua Hin 52, 149-59, 150, culture 376-7, 378, 391, wrecks 20 208-9 160 408, 409 dolphins 230-1 accommodation 155-6 currency 415-16 Ao Khanom 230-1 G activities 153-4 customs regulations 412-13 dôm yam 392, 392 gà·teu·i 89 drinking 157-8 cutaneous larva migrans drinks 389-90 gaang kĕe·o wăhn 392 entertainment 157-8 430 language 435-7 galleries, see museums & food 156-7 cycling 424 driving, see car travel galleries medical services 158 Bangkok 72 drugs 417 gay travellers 89, 414 sights 150-3 Hat Kata 286 dugongs 344 geography 396 tourist information 158 Hua Hin 154 Dusit Palace Park 66-9 gibbons travel to/from 158 Ko Yao 267 Cha-am 148 travel within 159 Krabi 307 Kaeng Krachan National language 438 E Park 146 Eastern Seaboard 51, 100- Khao Sok National 39, 102-3 I Park 256 immigration 376, 420-1, D economy 361, 378 Phuket Gibbon 422 Dan Singkhon Border electricity 20, 413-21 Rehabilitation Project Market 167 influenza 430 elephants 409-10 302 dance 383 insurance 414-15 Ban Kwan Chang 125 go-go bars 89 dangers 40, see safety car 425 King’s Cup Elephant Polo golf Deep South 237-42 health 428 Tournament 154 Hua Hin 153-4 demographics 376-7 internet access 415 Kuiburi National Park Ko Samui 177 dengue fever 430 163 internet resources 17 Grand Palace 57, 58-9 diarrhoea 431 embassies 413-14 Islam 47-8, 379 guerrilla war 240-1 disabilities, travellers emergencies 17 itineraries 26-33 with 420 language 437 Bangkok 56 diving & snorkelling 41-4, endangered species 397 H Gulf Islands 177 408-9 environmental issues Hat Chao Mai National Ko Chang 127 Ao Nang 20, 307 398-402 Park 339 courses 43, 214 Hat Kamala 295-6, 298 Erawan Shrine 66, 67 J Hat Karon 289 etiquette 19, 379, 408, 409 Hat Karon 289-90, 285 jellyfish stings 432 Hat Kata 285-6 events 23-5, see also Hat Kata 284-9, 285 Jim Thompson House 66 Hat Patong 291 individual locations Hat Khao Tao 159 444 K Ko Kut 10, 138-9, 137, 10 drinking & nightlife measles 431 Kaeng Krachan National Ko Lan 109 223-4 media 375, 417 Park 146-7 Ko Lanta 12, 326-36, 327, entertainment 224 medical services 429 kayaking 22 329, 12 food 221-3 military coup (2014) 373 Ko Chang (Eastern Ko Libong 344-5 medical services 225 military dictatorship Seaboard) 127 Ko Lipe 13, 353-7, 354 shopping 224 369-70 INDEX INDEX Ko Samui 177 Ko Loi 105 tourist information 225 mobile phones 419 Ko Yao 267 Ko Ma 197 travel to/from 225-6 money 17, 415-16 Krabi 304, 308 Ko Mak 136-8, 137 travel within 226 monkeys 143 -K-N Phuket Island 271 Ko Muk 341-3 Ko Tarutao 351-3 Phuket Gibbon Rehabili  Railay 312 Ko Tarutao Marine National tation Project 302

Ko Ngai 340-1  monks 379 Khao Khitchakut National Ko Panyi 266 Park 349-58, 350 Park 120 moo·ay tai Ko Pha-Ngan 10, 194-211, Ko Wai 135-6 Khao Lak 258-62, 259 195, 197, 11 kôw mòk 394 courses 72, 109, 179-80, 215, 295 Khao Lak/Lam Ru National accommodation 198-206 kôw soy 394 Park 258 stadiums 90 activities 197-8 Ko Yao 267-9 Khao Luang National motorcycle travel 423, drinking & nightlife 208 Ko Yo 234 Park 233 425-6 food 206-8 Krabi Province 303-36 Khao Phra Tamnak 109 scams 194 medical services 209 Krabi Town 303-6, 304 Khao Phra Thaew Royal muay Thai, see moo·ay tai sights 196-7 Kuiburi National Park 163 Wildlife & Forest museums & galleries tourist information Reserve 302 Ancient City 73 209-10 Khao Sam Roi Yot National L Ancient Cloth Museum tours 198 Park 161-3 ladyboys, see gà·teu·i 68 travel to/from 210 Khao Sok National Park 14, Laem Phanwa 281 Anek Kusala Sala (Viharn 256-8, 14 travel within 210-11 Sien) 108-9 Khuraburi 253-4 Ko Phayam 250-2 252-3 International Tsunami kitesurfing 22, 11 Ko Phi-Phi Don 12, 316-24, lâhp 392 Museum 258 Hat Noppharat Thara 317, 320, 12 language 19, 434-9 Museum of Siam 73 310 Ko Phi-Phi Leh 324-5 courses 180 National Museum Hua Hin 153 Ko Phra Thong 255-6 legal matters 415 (Bangkok) 62 Ko Samui 180 Ko Phuket, see Phuket leptospirosis 431 National Museum Island (Nakhon Si Tham- Krabi 308 LGBT travellers 89, 414 Ko Ra 255-6 marat) 232 Phuket Island 272 literature 380, see National Museum Ko Rawi 358 also books (Songkhla) 234 300 Ko Samet 20, 113-18, 114 Lower Gulf 52, 173-242, Ko Adang 357 Ko Samui 13, 52, 176-94, Phuket Thaihua Museum 174-5 275 Ko Bulon Leh 348-9 178 Royal Thai Elephant Ko Chang (Andaman accommodation 180-7 Museum 68 Coast) 249-50 activities 177-9 M macaque monkeys 143, 148 Satun National Museum Ko Chang (Eastern courses 179-80 345-6 Seaboard) 14, 124-35, malaria 431 drinking & nightlife 191-2 Suan Pakkad Palace 126, 14 maps 415 entertainment 192 Museum 66 accommodation 128-32 markets 63 food 187-91 Thalang National activities 127 Asiatique 93 medical services 193 Museum 302-3 drinking 132-4 Chatuchak Weekend shopping 192 music 90, 381-2 food 132-4 Market 93 sights 176-7 music festivals medical services 134 Dan Singkhon Border tourist information 193 Market 167 Hua Hin Jazz Festival sights 124-6 24, 154 travel to/from 193-4 Gem Market (Chanth- tourist information 134 travel within 194 aburi) 118 Pattaya International travel to/from 134 Music festival 23, 109 Ko Si Boya 325-6 Khlong Toey Market 63 travel within 134 Ko Si Chang 106-7 Nonthaburi Market 63 Ko Jum 325-6 Ko Sireh 281 Or Tor Kor Market 63 N Ko Khao Phing Kan 266 Ko Sukorn 345 Pak Khlong Talat 63 Nakhon Si Thammarat Ko Kradan 343-4 Ko Tao 13, 211-26, 212, 218 Talat Mai 63 232-4 Ko Kret 82 accommodation 216-21 Talat Rot Fai 93 Nakhon Si Thammarat Province 230-4 activities 211-16 Thanon Khao San Nam Tok Phlio National diving & snorkelling Market 93 Map Pages 000 Park 120 211-14 massage, see Thai Photo Pages 000 massage Narathiwat 239-41 445 Natai 264-5 parks & gardens travel seasons 16-17 Similan Islands Marine national parks & reserves King Taksin Park 119 plants 397-8 National Park 262-4, 398, 400-1 Lumphini Park 73 politics 67, 360-1, 374-5 263, 22 Ang Thong Marine Tsunami Memorial Park population 361, 376-7 Sirinat National Park 300-2 National Park 197, 260 postal services 416 snakes 73, 433 226-7 passports 420-1, 422 Prachuap Khiri Khan 163-7, snorkelling 41-4, see also

Ao Phang-Nga National diving & snorkelling INDEX pàt pàk bûng fai daang 164 Park 266-7 394 Pranburi 160-1 sôm·đam 394, 394 Hat Chao Mai National pàt tai 392 Songkhla 234-5 Park 339 prostitution 384-5

Pattani 238-9 Songkhla Province 234-7  N-T Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu public holidays 416 Pattaya 107-12, 108 public transport 426 spas, see also Thai  Ko Phi-Phi National massage Park 310 Phang-Nga 265-6 Andaman Coast 278 Kaeng Krachan National Phang-Nga Province Park 146-7 253-69 R Bangkok 69 rabies 431 Khao Khitchakut Phanomyong, Pridi 369 Ko Samui 179 National Park 120 Phetchaburi (Phetburi) radio 417 STDs 431 Khao Lak/Lam Ru 142-6, 144 Railay 9, 311-16 Suan Pakkad Palace National Park 258 photography 416 Ranong 246-9, 247 Museum 66 Khao Luang National Phra Nakhon Khiri Ranong Province 246-53 Sungai Kolok 241-2 Park 233 Historical Park 142 Rawai 281-4, 282 Surat Thani 227-30, 228 Khao Phra Thaew Royal Phra Ram Ratchaniwet 143 Rayong 112-13 surfing Wildlife & Forest Phuket Gibbon reefs 44 Hat Kata 285 Reserve 302 Rehabilitation Project religion 67, 361, 378-80 Phuket Island 271-2 Khao Sam Roi Yot 302 reserves, see national Surin Islands 14 National Park 161-3 Phuket Island 11, 52, 269- parks & reserves Surin Islands Marine Khao Sok National Park 303, 270, 11 rock climbing 22, 38 National Park 254-5 14, 256-8, 14 activities 269-72 Ko Phi-Phi Don 318 Ko Tarutao Marine children, travel with 276 National Park 349-58, Ko Yao 267 courses 272 T 350 Railay 311-12, 9 medical services 273 tailors 92 Kuiburi National Park rum 287 taxis 273, 426 163 tours 272 travel to/from 273 tea 389 Laem Son National Park technical diving 43, 213 252-3 travel within 273 S safety 40, 416-18 telephone services 419 Nam Tok Phlio National Phuket Town 20, 274-81, children 50 temples & shrines, see Park 120 274 diving 42-3 wáts & shrines Similan Islands Marine accommodation 276-7 Thai boxing, see moo·ay tai National Park 262-4 activities 276 environment 432-3 Thai language 434-9 Sirinat National Park courses 276-7 hitching 426 Thai massage 403-6 300-2 drinking & nightlife road 425-6 Surin Islands Marine 278-9 tsunami 260 courses 406 National Park 254-5 food 277-8 San Jao Phaw Khao Yai 106 Hua Hin 154 Thung Sam Roi Yot 162 shopping 279 Sanctuary of Truth 107 Ko Chang (Eastern Seaboard) 127 newspapers 417 sights 275-6 Satun 345-7, 346 Ko Samui 179 noodles 388 taxis 273 Satun Province 345-58 Thalang District 302-3 nuns 379 tourist information 280 scams 95, 194, 417 theatre 90, 383 travel to/from 279, 280-1 scuba diving, see diving & theft 417 travel within 280-1 snorkelling O 294 opening hours 416 planning, see also sea gypsies, see chow lair individual regions separatist conflict 373-4 time 419 beaches 34-40 sex industry 384-5 language 437 P budgeting 16-17 Shinawatra, Thaksin 67, tipping 19, 416 PADI courses, see diving calendar of events 23-5 371-2 toilets 420 courses children, travel with Shinawatra, Yingluck 67, tourist information 420 painting 383 49-50, 73, 276 360, 372 touts 411, 417 Pak Bara 348 diving & snorkelling 41-4 shopping 418-19 train travel 423, 426-7 palaces internet resources 16-17 language 437 Trang 336-9, 338 Dusit Palace Park 66-9 itineraries 26-33 Si Racha 104-5, 104 Trang beaches 339-40 Grand Palace 57, 58-9 repeat visitors 20 Siam Square 63-6 Trang Islands 9, 340-5 Phra Chudadhut Palace Thailand basics 16-17 Similan Islands 14 Trang Province 336-45, 106 Thailand’s regions 51-2 337 446 transport 422-7 Visakha Bucha 24 Wat Samret 177 Reserve 302 language 437-8 visas 420-1 Wat Suan Mok- Khao Sok National Trat 121-3, 122 volunteering 410 khaphalaram 231 Park 256 travel seasons 16, see also Ko Chang (Eastern Wat Tantayaphirom 336 Ko Ra 255 individual regions Seaboard) 127 Wat Tham Seua 303 Ko Tarutao Marine travel to/from Thailand Ko Lipe 355 Wat Tham Yai Phrik 106 National Park 349-58,

INDEX INDEX 422-4 Ko Samui 177-8 Wat Traimit 62-3 350 travel within Thailand Sirinat National Park 301 waterfalls Kuiburi National Park 163 424-7 Ao Khanom 230 Libong Archipelago T-Z trekking Kaeng Krachan National Wildlife Reserve 344 Kaeng Krachan National W Park 147 -wakeboarding Phuket Gibbon Rehabili  Park 146 Khao Phra Thaew Royal tation Project 302 Khao Sam Roi Yot Ko Pha-Ngan 198 Wildlife & Forest National Park 162 Ko Phi-Phi Don 316 Reserve 302 Similan Islands Marine National Park 263 Khao Sok National Phuket Town 276 Khao Sok National Park 257 war 240-1 Park 257 Surin Islands Marine National Park 255 Ko Chang (Eastern wáts & shrines Ko Chang 124 wine 152 Seaboard) 127 Erawan Shrine 67 Ko Kut 138 women travellers 421 Ko Tao 215 etiquette 19, 379, 408, Ko Tarutao 352 health 433 Similan Islands Marine 409 Nam Tok Hin Lat 176 National Park 263 Wat Ao Noi 164 Nam Tok Khiri Phet 126 Surin Islands Marine Wat Arun 60-99 Nam Tok Na Muang 176 National Park 255 Y Wat Hin Lat 176 Nam Tok Phaeng 196 yachting 272 tsunamis 258, 260, 371 Wat Kamphaeng Laeng Nam Tok Than Mayom Yala 237-8 turtles 143 125 yam 392 Rayong Turtle Conserva- Wat Khunaram 176 Nam Tok Than Sadet 196 tion Centre 115 yoga Wat Kuha Pi Muk 237 Pirate’s Falls 358 TV 416 Hat Kata 286 Wat Laem Saw 176 weather 16, 23-5, 412, see typhoid 431 Ko Chang (Andaman Wat Mahathat also individual regions Coast) 250 Worawihan 142 whale sharks 42, 215, 318 Ko Lipe 355 U Wat Pho (Bangkok) wildlife 148, see also Ko Samui 179 Upper Gulf 52, 140-72, 141 57-60, 406, 64-5 conservation, individual Ko Tao 216 species Wat Pho (Ko Pha-Ngan) Ko Yao 267 196 wildlife watching V Wat Phra Kaew 57, 58-9 Ao Khanom 230-1 vacations 416 Wat Phra Mahathat Hat Chao Mai National Z vegans & vegetarians 391 Woramahawihaan 232 Park 339 ziplining Vegetarian Festival 24, Wat Phra Thong 303-4 Kaeng Krachen National Bang Saen 101 74, 391 Wat Phra Yai 176 Park 146 Ko Chang (Eastern Vimanmek Teak Wat Phu Khao Noi 196 Khao Phra Thaew Royal Seaboard) 125 Mansion 67 Wat Poramai Yikawat 82 Wildlife & Forest zoos 73, 101

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 447

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Mark Beales Need to Know, First Time, What’s New, Ko Chang & Eastern Seaboard After working as a journalist for 13 years, Mark swapped the chilly shores of England for the sunnier coasts of Thailand. Since 2004 Mark has lived in Thailand, where he has contributed to around a dozen books for Lonely Planet, been a TV presenter and dragged his backpack to every country in Southeast Asia. Mark lives with his wife, Ann, and their son, Daniel. For more on Mark’s work, visit www.markbeales.com.

Austin Bush Bangkok, Eat Like a Local, Food & Drink, Food Spotter’s Guide Austin Bush came to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study programme hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led Austin to Bangkok. City life, employment and spicy food have managed to keep him there since. He is a native of Oregon and a writer and photographer who often focuses on food; samples of Austin’s work can be seen at www.austinbushphotography.com.

David Eimer Hua Hin & Upper Gulf, Deep South section of Ko Samui & Lower Gulf, Thai Massage, Responsible Travel, Directory, Transport, Health A decade of visiting Thailand in search of beaches and fine food prompted David to relocate to Bangkok in 2012. Since then, his work as a journalist for a variety of newspapers and magazines has taken him from the far south of Thailand to its northernmost extremities, with many stops in between. He also contributed to Lonely Planet’s Thailand.

Damian Harper Month by Month, Itineraries, Choose Your Beach, Diving & Snorkelling, Travel With Chil- dren, Ko Samui & Lower Gulf, People & Culture, Environment Damian traded a career in bookselling for a four-year degree in Chinese, a decision that propelled him towards the Far East and a sharp change of tack into travel journalism and guide- book writing. Since the late 1990s, Damian has worked on Lonely Planet guides to places as diverse as China, Malaysia, & , , Hong Kong, Macau and Guangzhou, London and Ireland. You can find him at www.damianharper.com.

Isabella Noble Welcome to Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Top 15, If You Like, Regions at a Glance, Phuket & Andaman Coast English-Australian-Spanish Isabella writes about Thailand, India, Spain and beyond for Lonely Planet, Telegraph Travel and others. A big fan of Phuket despite its touristy reputation (she also penned Lonely Planet’s Pocket Phuket), Isabella first fell for the Andaman on a 2008 backpacking extravaganza. She lives in London and blogs at www.isabellanoble.blogspot.com. Find her on Twitter and Instagram (@isabellamnoble).

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – July 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 873 0 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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