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EMPRESS MAIL MOTOR ROAD ACROSS THE ROCKIES

\\T HEN Sir George Simpson, in 1S41, made his overland journey round the world, in the interests of the Hudson Bay Company, no region impressed him with its sublimity and wild grandeur more than the ridge of the Rockies between the prairies and the Upper Columbia Valle7. The pass by which he crossed this ridge still bears his name and is used by a few of the more adventurous tourists, but still more by Alpine climbers with ambitions to scale Mount Assiniboine, a pyramidal monarch of nearly 12,000 ft. high.

HTHE grades over the Rockies at this point are too great for any commercial railway, but the scenery is so wonderful that a proposal was made and is being carried out to construct a high road suitable for automobile traffic connecting Banff with the Upper Columbia Valley which separates the Rockies from the Selkirk Mountains. One proposal was to follow Simpson's route, but the Government surveyors ultimately decided that a less expensive road could be built a few miles west through the Vermillion Pass which joins the Simpson Pass trail on the farther side of Mount Ball. The improvement of the Simpson Pass trail was, however, not lost sight of, ard eventually may form an alternative route to the lovely shores of Lake Windermere. The road as now located leaves the Canadian Pacific Railway near Castle Mountain and climbs up to the Great Divide through an area devastated by forest fires. The stream of the Vermillion rushing down to join the waters of the Kootenay River takes its name from the red ochre beds which lie to the right near Tokum Creek. Spruce, jackpine, and fir line the banks of the creek, over which tower the peaks of Storm (10,309 ft.), Whymper (9,3i9 ft.), Mitchell (10,225 ft.), Ball (10,825 ft.), and Vermillion (8,682 ft.), while Deltaform (11,225 ft.) and Hungabee (11,447 ft.) can be seen at intervals on the right. Canyon follows canyon till the Vermillion joins the Simpson Creek in an open park-like country. "At this point," to quote the description of the Hon. W. W. Foster, in an address to the Progress Club of Vancouver, "the view north-west up the Vermillion, east into the valley of the Simpson, or south following the Kootenay down the distant Shephard range, is a panorama of natural beauty which words could never describe. The Kootenay Valley is connected to the Columbia via Sinclair Pass, a pass used for years by Indians, who, after incursions into the rich hunting lands of the Vermhlion and Kootenay, where moose, elk, and other game still abound, crossed the Divide to visit the Hot Springs on the western slope, now known as the Sinclair Springs. The little emerald lake on the exact summit on the trip over the Sinclair, the wonderful canyon with the bright red walls towering hundreds of feet on either side of where the road will pass right through the centre of the canyon itself, the magic springs, or the enchanting view from the grassy plateau above, looking east through the canyon into the Vermillion range, or west across the wide valley of the Columbia, through which the river turns, to the snow-capped Purcell range beyond, time does not permit to dwell upon; but again may I repeat that, as a scenic route, this road will be without a peer, and despite the fact that it crosses the main chains of the Rockies and traverses seventy miles of

CANADIAN PACIFIC HIGHWAY OF THE GREAT DIVIDE

CONSTRUCTION CAMP AT SINCLAIR, ON THE BANFF-WINDERMERE AUTOMOBILE ROAD. EMPRESS MAIL THE "STOLEN CHURCH

our most typical and pictures ]ue mountain scenery, will be a standard road, not exceed­ ing an average of 3J per cent, except for a short distance up the east approach of the Sinclair Pass."

PHE construction of the Banff-Windermere automobile road has proceeded from both ends, but owing to financial stringency construction has latterly been somewhat slow, and it is not certain whether the completion may be expected in time for next summer. A very enjoyable trip, however, can be made from the Windermere and through the Sinclair Canyon, past Summit Lake into the Kootenay Valley. About twenty-three miles of this had been built from the old Government road,at Sinclair when the writer last was there, and the wonderfully picturesque scenery, together with the easy grades and excellent road surface, is not easy to parallel in Canada.

"VT EAR Sinclair Canyon are radio-active hot springs which Mr. St. John Harmsworth had the intention of piping into a Kur-Hotel before the war broke out, and certainly the site selected was ideal for its purpose, commanding a magnificent view of the Selkirk Mountains. The springs were formerly used by miners suffering from rheumatism, who came here in winter and camped in the snow beside the steaming waters. Pictographs, which some claim to be Indian, are to be found on the great cliffs which tower over the road.

A T the village of Windermere, on the east side of the lake, is the so-called " Stolen Church," ihe history of which is not without humour. Originally built for the moral benefit of the railroad camp at Donald—about a hundred miles north—at the time of the construction of the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway in the early eighties, this church appears to have gained the affections of one of the contractor's engineers. The said engineer had also been attracted by the charms of Lake Winder­ mere, so when the construction camp was broken up he decided to settle down in the valley on the Lake Shore and take the church with him. In vain the Bishop at New Westminster fulminated. The church had already been placed on its new foundations, ninety miles from the railway, and it was too costly an operation in the engineer's opinion to bring it back.

AT the mouth of Toby Creek are the traces of the old Kootenay House, established by the explorer David Thompson, in 1807, as a centre for his geographical studies. Toby Creek is named after the dog which accompanied Earl Grey in his hunting trips in this region. While Governor-General of Canada, Earl Grey had a hunting lodge on the pass over the Selkirks which bears his name, and in his opinion there is no more beautiful or romantic scenery in Canada than what one finds in this Upper Columbia Valley.

C A N AD IAN P A C I F. I C HIGHWAY OF THE GREAT DIVIDE

MOTOR ROAD THROUGH THE SINCLAIR PASS. EMPRESS MAIL THE CANADIAN PACIFIC OCEAN SERVICES LTD. MANAGERS AND AGENTS FOR "CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY OCEAN STEAMSHIP LINES" AND "THE ALLAN LINE STEAMSHIP CO., LTD." MARCONIGRAMS

London. Germans, and it is believed that the Chicago.

It was stated here yesterday, that offensive will relieve the pressure on Reports from the Republican R.M.S. u MISSANABIE." David Lloyd George was to have taken the Italian front. National Convention, indicate less FRIDAY, JUNE 9th, 1916. the trip to Russia with Lord Kitchener, Chicago. harmony between the Republicans and

but was prevented by the Irish crisis. The Republican situation at the Progressives, and that two separate

Marconi Wireless Press From Tientsin. convention is unchanged, but the tickets will probably be the outcome.

American troops have been ordered general belief is, that Mr. Hughes will The Republican sentiment for ARLINGTON. to hold themselves in readiness for be nominated. The Progressives will Mr. Hughes grows, while the Progressives instant departure to Peking. French J in all probability nominate Colonel demand Colonel Roosevelt. The troops have already been despatched to Roosevelt to-night, forestalling the proceeding has not as yet reached the LATEST WAR NEWS, the capital. Republican old guard managers, who balloting stage. Paris. wish to eliminate him from the fight, New York. Berlin. Fighting on the Western Front and perhaps force the Republicans Two south bound elevated railroad An official statement, given out by continues in the vicinity of the Vaux trains of the third avenue line, collided to endorse the progressive nomination. the Admiralty yesterday, indicates Fort. The French have conceded the yesterday, injuring thirty persons. loss of the fortress, which was rendered that the Cerman losses in the Jutland Rome. London. battle, in the main conform with the useless by the German bombardment. It is reported that the Austrian Count and Countess Plunkett, who British reports. The new figures include The Serbian-Russian offensive has advance has been halted along the were arrested last month in connection the cruisers " Lutzow," and " Rostock " already resulted in the capturing of entire line, and that the Italians are with the Irish revolt, were released from which were not previously mentioned. large numbers of Austrians and holding their positions firmly. custody yesterday, and ordered to leave Dublin by next Saturday.

CANADIAN PACIFIC EMPRESS MAIL ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA

"VTOUNTAINEERING is at once the most catholic and most democratic and most sublime of all the sports invented by man. It is also the most aristocratic, if we interpret the word as standing only for honour, discipline, refinement and intellect. All genuine mountaineers—there may be spurious here as in all human activities—find friends on the mountains and make friendships there only if they find the universal human qualities of fortitude and resource, good-humour and unselfishness, whether their com­ panions be'princes or peasants. True, those Englishmen, who first made mountain-., climbing a sport over half a century ago, were men distinguished in science, law, and the higher professions; but since then men in humble walks of life have learned the mountain craft and have also experienced the exaltations of the " final pitch " and of the high top on many a peak once believed inaccessible. Savant and poet, clerk and peasant, are at one when afoot with the "quiet gods" on high white altitudes. Their rewards, both of achievement and of beauty, are essentially moral and aesthetic, and are as permanent as the mountains themselves. They have not only looked unto the hills for help, but have sought and found it in their highest fastnesses. While all this is true, mountain climbing solely as a sport has achieved much for geological and^ geographical science, as its, history will show.

T N Canada, where an, enormous alpine territory was unknown to the world before surveyors sought a passage, for the C.P.R., little climbing was done, and that by Englishmen.and Americans mainly, until the Alpine Club of Canada was organised in 1906. Under its President, Mr. A. O. Wheeler, this young club immediately devised and carried cut a scheme, not only to awaken Canadians to a knowledge and an appreciation of their own mountains, but to initiate Canadians into the hardships and delights t of climbing them. How entirely successful it was all the world knows, and the club speedily took rank with the best Alpine Clubs in the world. Every " summer it has operated a school for mountaineering which consists of a meeting lasting two weeks, and has produced mountaineers who have shown remarkable skill and initiative on both ice and rock. Its membership, now over 800, includes climbers from Great Britain, India, Italy, South Africa, the United States, and from other parts of the world. Moreover, the object has been attained of inspiring its members to climb quite apart from these summer camps which are the great and popular feature of the club.: Also scientific investigations have been carried on year by year on the larger glaciers along the C.P.R. and valuable data recorded.

IV/r R. WHEELER conducted in three seasons three fruitful expeditions, the most important being in 1911 in the scarcely known Rainbow Range, north of the Yellowhead Pass, dominated by Mount Robson, now the centre of attraction in the Rockies. During August of 1913, after the usual camps in the Rockies south/some sixty active members of the club—for a nominal price each, according to expeditions involving pack-trains, outfitters, guides, and long, remote trails—camped on Robson Pass and explored a large number of glaciers and new mountains. The weather-gods were unusually propitious, and the chief object of the camp was successful, namely, to find some feasible route, some right way for future climbers up Mount Robson, the highest and most dangerous peak known so far in the Rockies. A traverse then made *• of this mountain is the most-brilliant and scientific in the annals of the Canadian Alps, and will no doubt rank with more than one famous feat in Switzerland.

CANADIAN PACIFIC A DAY'S OUTING WITH NOVICES

THE CANADIAN ALPINE CLUB—A PRACTICE CLIMB NEAR HECTOR, B.C.

EMPRESS MAIL SASKATOON, YESTERDAY AND TO-DAY rr HE train from Winnipeg snaked into Saskatoon, the booming city of Central *• Saskatchewan, that only a few years ago was a mere handful of houses and a hotel at a river crossing, a place looked upon as at the back of beyond. We got out upon the platform, and passed straightway into the mo^t amazing scene of a town in the making. VERYTHING was going on at once. On all sides was hammering cf carpenters E putting up frame houses. Derricks swung here, swung there, tan ing blocks of granite, soaring up, and gently laying them in place. In the middle of the streets tremendous horses (like the horses that draw brewers' carts in England), in sinewy teams of six, dragged ploughs on to which men hung—half a dozen men to a plough. The prairie that had known nothing but the trampling of buffalo hoofs, rain, wind, sun, cloud-shadows, snow, and occasional trailing travois poles of wandering Crees, was being torn up so that Saskatoon's electric tram-lines might be laid. The swish and thud of heavy hammers driving spikes went on all day long. In the central streets there was a sound of steely crunching and stony mastication, where concrete-making machines were being fed at one end with stones and something that looked like cement, and slithering out concrete sidewalk at the other. In the centre of the city wooden sidewalks were being torn up to prepare the way for these advancing concrete-discharging contraptions, N the environs of the city other squads of men were laying wooden sidewalks—to the I consternation of gophirs or prairie dogs. There, too, the carpenters' hammers sounded, putting up suburban bungalows. Buggies came and went everywhere—and motor-cars. Beside the post office, indeed, is a motor-car rank. The place showed every feature of a new town, except that feature known of old as "whooping it up." They have, as they say, " cut that out" nowadays. EN years ago there was here nothing but grazing steers, followers of the vanished T buffalo. They, too, are now gone. Twenty years ago, had you wanted to cross these plains, you might have done so in a Red River cart, the ungreased axles of which screamed so that for miles off they could be heard announcing an arrival out of the expanse of windy grass ; as for their wheels—they were made in a dubious circle, so that there was a bumpety-bump all the while. Now three railway systems can book you thither, and, having arrived, you go over the prairie to see your town lot in a motor-car out of a new Arabian Nights, all springs and buoyancy. FREDERICK NIVE'N (in The World's Work).

THREE STAGES OF SCHOOL GROWTH, SASKATOON

CANADIAN PACIFIC NORTH BEND AS A SYMBOL

HP HERE are really two North Bends. The one is North Bend, a Divisional Point on •* the C.P.R. into which men come from railway camps, with time-cheques, to draw their wages and spend some, and move on again to look for fresh work. Years ago I knew that North Bend. I recall sitting on the old platform of those days. I remember a man skulking there in some trepidation, waiting for the coming of a train on which he proposed getting out of the place with ten dollars given him by some Indians to buy whisky for them. They were in the bushes across the track wondering why he tarried. HE other North Bend is the North Bend some yards farther West—the North Bend T of a C.P.R. hotel, of green lawns sloping down to the railway track, with a portable fountain at the end of yards of tubing spraying rainbows into the sunny day, and sweet- peas giving off their scent round the broad veranda, and a pair of humming-birds darting among these jungles of the dark blue, the blue, the pale blue, the pink, the red, and the snow-white flowers. The man with his bundle of blankets on his back, " hitting the ties" into North Bend with a time-cheque in his pocket, sees a very different Canada from the man in the rocking-chair on the broad veranda of that pretty chalet. The Canada that the tourist sees is circumscribed. So is the Canada of the labourer. Both miss a lot. The real Canada—like the real anywhere—is a place of wolf-teeth and rainbows blent. N my last visit to North Bend I stepped off a Pullman car, a coon placing a little pair O of steps for me to alight by. A Japanese carried my "grip " up to the hotel. It was a blazing, sunny day. Everything sparkled. The sky was like a turquoise. As I went down the little steps and handed the coon his expected gratuity, I remembered the prior arrival—the freight train coming in at early morning, and I peeping through a crack in the side to make sure that it was North Bend, then peeping out of the little end wicket of the car to see that no one observed me, feeling in my pocket to be sure I had not dropped my time-cheque while dozing on the way hither, then slipping out on to the bumpers, dropping my blankets on to the track, and alighting softly on them, hearing a step—and standing on guard, expectant of the precipitate assault of some breaksman who had espied me, and seeing instead a benign and grey-headed old man who closed one eye at me and passed on. FREDERICK NIVEN (in The World's Work.) : ' m: .::iy ly'y •. K w§ •' s i ;#| . y§§y§. 'Siiiili .;•:-.;;..

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ROUND THE CAMP FIRE IN THE YOHO VALLEY, B.C. EMPRESS MA I L THE KING : A WESTERN VIEW

OTHING amuses the Canadian more than to read the solemn discussions in N English newspapers about his loyalty. Why, bless you, the average Westerner has a streak of it in him that would make most Englishmen blush. For the meaning of devotion to Crown and Empire you want to traverse the Last Best West, and when you reach the Pacific you must acknowledge you knew nothing about it on the Atlantic. OU may go sight-seeing in Montreal, where the chief sights are banks and churches Y —criteria both of success, though of different kinds ; you may stop off for a day's shooting in that marvellous labyrinth of lakes and rivers and trees called New Ontario ; you may roll across the never-ending wheatfields of Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta, visit the northern lumber camps, converse with the river drivers, penetrate high up among the Rockies, where the scenery has Switzerland counted right out, and drop in on any little mining town to peruse its very twentieth-century newspaper; finally you come to the cities of the Pacific, in the free libraries of which you find Punch, the Illustrated London News, and other old friends—and everywhere it is " God save our King." But when any event touches the person of His Majesty the real loyalty of the Westerner stands revealed, for nothing else is of such absorbing interest to them. True, they have some queer ideas about lords and dukes—people who wear monocles and. coronets and oppress the poor—but the King, God bless him ! is above all that; a wise, good, far-seeing and powerful father, who watches his Colonies with kindly eye, rejoicing in their prosperity, and to whom the Blackfoot Indian and the Montreal millionaire may appeal alike. ANADIANS born may pretend occasionally to despise Englishmen, but in the C bottom of their hearts they have a deep admiration for the tough little island that leads the world, and a very real love for the man who symbolises its majesty, while often and often you come across families that have Anglomania—not always mildly, either. Suppose you are there for Sunday tea. Your host is a true Easterner, and has pros­ pered since he reached the West. The room you are sitting in shows that. Around him is his family, the Misses Joanna Canuck embarrassingly interested in you, while the rest of the party ask you to describe the Strand, the Houses of Parliament, and the Old Country piecemeal. Wait a bit, though. For, first of all, before you are fairly seated, they want to know if you have seen the King; and if so, happy art thou if thou mayest describe him even to the veriest detail of His Majesty's raiment; and if thou art not put to shame by the unaffected loyalty of these fellow-subjects, right loyal wert thou already. O O much for Canadians born. How about Americans ? As a rule they rather like •^ the idea of a new kind of President, reports to the contrary notwithstanding, and when they find they are as absolutely free as they were under the Stars and Stripes, while law and order are pleasantly prominent, the vast majority become as aggressively loyal to the King as they were before enthusiastic for the President. A true incident illustrates this. T was the annual concert at the Narrow Lake schoolhouse—if you have an up-to-date I map of Central Saskatchewan you will see Narrow Lake, as bold as print can make it, away north-west of Saskatoon—and the company was singing "God Save the King" at the end with a swing that made the rafters ring. There were two American families, however, who had newly come to the country, and they insisted on. singing " God Save McKinley." Afterwards they wished they hadn't, for the settlement (made up of about equal proportions of Americans, Canadians, and Englishmen) socially ostracised them until they were very sorry and didn't do it again. ITH regard to the Englishman, distance lends enchantment, and the little island W back across the seas, with all that therein is, becomes something sacred to him. He marvels how his thoughts of loyalty and patriotism were not warmer before, and, with the other people of the Great Plains, throws a world of earnestness into bis voice when he sings : " Send him victorious, happy and glorious, Long to reign over us, God save the King." E. P. WHEATLEY. EMPRESS MAIL