Stokes Drift in Internal Equatorial Kelvin Waves: Continuous Stratification Versus Two-Layer Models
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Transport Due to Transient Progressive Waves of Small As Well As of Large Amplitude
This draft was prepared using the LaTeX style file belonging to the Journal of Fluid Mechanics 1 Transport due to Transient Progressive Waves Juan M. Restrepo1,2 , Jorge M. Ram´ırez 3 † 1Department of Mathematics, Oregon State University, Corvallis OR 97330 USA 2Kavli Institute of Theoretical Physics, University of California at Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara CA 93106 USA. 3Departamento de Matem´aticas, Universidad Nacional de Colombia Sede Medell´ın, Medell´ın Colombia (Received xx; revised xx; accepted xx) We describe and analyze the mean transport due to numerically-generated transient progressive waves, including breaking waves. The waves are packets and are generated with a boundary-forced air-water two-phase Navier Stokes solver. The analysis is done in the Lagrangian frame. The primary aim of this study is to explain how, and in what sense, the transport generated by transient waves is larger than the transport generated by steady waves. Focusing on a Lagrangian framework kinematic description of the parcel paths it is clear that the mean transport is well approximated by an irrotational approximation of the velocity. For large amplitude waves the parcel paths in the neighborhood of the free surface exhibit increased dispersion and lingering transport due to the generation of vorticity. Armed with this understanding it is possible to formulate a simple Lagrangian model which captures the transport qualitatively for a large range of wave amplitudes. The effect of wave breaking on the mean transport is accounted for by parametrizing dispersion via a simple stochastic model of the parcel path. The stochastic model is too simple to capture dispersion, however, it offers a good starting point for a more comprehensive model for mean transport and dispersion. -
Arxiv:2002.03434V3 [Physics.Flu-Dyn] 25 Jul 2020
APS/123-QED Modified Stokes drift due to surface waves and corrugated sea-floor interactions with and without a mean current Akanksha Gupta Department of Mechanical Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur, U.P. 208016, India.∗ Anirban Guhay School of Science and Engineering, University of Dundee, Dundee DD1 4HN, UK. (Dated: July 28, 2020) arXiv:2002.03434v3 [physics.flu-dyn] 25 Jul 2020 1 Abstract In this paper, we show that Stokes drift may be significantly affected when an incident inter- mediate or shallow water surface wave travels over a corrugated sea-floor. The underlying mech- anism is Bragg resonance { reflected waves generated via nonlinear resonant interactions between an incident wave and a rippled bottom. We theoretically explain the fundamental effect of two counter-propagating Stokes waves on Stokes drift and then perform numerical simulations of Bragg resonance using High-order Spectral method. A monochromatic incident wave on interaction with a patch of bottom ripple yields a complex interference between the incident and reflected waves. When the velocity induced by the reflected waves exceeds that of the incident, particle trajectories reverse, leading to a backward drift. Lagrangian and Lagrangian-mean trajectories reveal that surface particles near the up-wave side of the patch are either trapped or reflected, implying that the rippled patch acts as a non-surface-invasive particle trap or reflector. On increasing the length and amplitude of the rippled patch; reflection, and thus the effectiveness of the patch, increases. The inclusion of realistic constant current shows noticeable differences between Lagrangian-mean trajectories with and without the rippled patch. -
Acoustic Nonlinearity in Dispersive Solids
ACOUSTIC NONLINEARITY IN DISPERSIVE SOLIDS John H. Cantrell and William T. Yost NASA Langley Research Center Mail Stop 231 Hampton, VA 23665-5225 INTRODUCTION It is well known that the interatomic anharmonicity of the propagation medium gives rise to the generation of harmonics of an initially sinusoidal acoustic waveform. It is, perhaps, less well appreciated that the anharmonicity also gives rise to the generation of a static or "dc" component of the propagating waveform. We have previously shown [1,2] that the static component is intrinsically linked to the acoustic (Boussinesq) radiation stress in the material. For nondispersive solids theory predicts that a propagating gated continuous waveform (acoustic toneburst) generates a static displacement pulse having the shape of a right-angled triangle, the slope of which is linearly proportional to the magnitude and sign of the acoustic nonlinearity parameter of the propagation medium. Such static displacement pulses have been experimentally verified in single crystal silicon [3] and germanium [4]. The purpose of the present investigation is to consider the effects of dispersion on the generation of the static acoustic wave component. It is well known that an initial disturbance in media which have both sufficiently large dispersion and nonlinearity can evolve into a series of solitary waves or solitons [5]. We consider here that an acoustic tone burst may be modeled as a modulated continuous waveform and that the generated initial static displacement pulse may be viewed as a modulation-confined disturbance. In media with sufficiently large dispersion and nonlinearity the static displacement pulse may be expected to evolve into a series of modulation solitons. -
The Stokes Drift in Ocean Surface Drift Prediction
EGU2020-9752 https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-egu2020-9752 EGU General Assembly 2020 © Author(s) 2021. This work is distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License. The Stokes drift in ocean surface drift prediction Michel Tamkpanka Tamtare, Dany Dumont, and Cédric Chavanne Université du Québec à Rimouski, Institut des Sciences de la mer de Rimouski, Océanographie Physique, Canada ([email protected]) Ocean surface drift forecasts are essential for numerous applications. It is a central asset in search and rescue and oil spill response operations, but it is also used for predicting the transport of pelagic eggs, larvae and detritus or other organisms and solutes, for evaluating ecological isolation of marine species, for tracking plastic debris, and for environmental planning and management. The accuracy of surface drift forecasts depends to a large extent on the quality of ocean current, wind and waves forecasts, but also on the drift model used. The standard Eulerian leeway drift model used in most operational systems considers near-surface currents provided by the top grid cell of the ocean circulation model and a correction term proportional to the near-surface wind. Such formulation assumes that the 'wind correction term' accounts for many processes including windage, unresolved ocean current vertical shear, and wave-induced drift. However, the latter two processes are not necessarily linearly related to the local wind velocity. We propose three other drift models that attempt to account for the unresolved near-surface current shear by extrapolating the near-surface currents to the surface assuming Ekman dynamics. Among them two models consider explicitly the Stokes drift, one without and the other with a wind correction term. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Stokes Drift and Net Transport for Two-Dimensional Wave Groups in Deep Water
Stokes drift and net transport for two-dimensional wave groups in deep water T.S. van den Bremer & P.H. Taylor Department of Engineering Science, University of Oxford [email protected], [email protected] Introduction This paper explores Stokes drift and net subsurface transport by non-linear two-dimensional wave groups with realistic underlying frequency spectra in deep wa- ter. It combines analytical expressions from second- order random wave theory with higher order approxi- mate solutions from Creamer et al (1989) to give accu- rate subsurface kinematics using the H-operator of Bate- man, Swan & Taylor (2003). This class of Fourier series based numerical methods is extended by proposing an M-operator, which enables direct evaluation of the net transport underneath a wave group, and a new conformal Figure 1: Illustration of the localized irrotational mass mapping primer with remarkable properties that removes circulation moving with the passing wave group. The the persistent problem of high-frequency contamination four fluxes, the Stokes transport in the near surface re- for such calculations. gion and in the direction of wave propagation (left to Although the literature has examined Stokes drift in right); the return flow in the direction opposite to that regular waves in great detail since its first systematic of wave propagation (right to left); the downflow to the study by Stokes (1847), the motion of fluid particles right of the wave group; and the upflow to the left of the transported by a (focussed) wave group has received con- wave group, are equal. siderably less attention. -
Final Program
Final Program 1st International Workshop on Waves, Storm Surges and Coastal Hazards Hilton Hotel Liverpool Sunday September 10 6:00 - 8:00 p.m. Workshop Registration Desk Open at Hilton Hotel Monday September 11 7:30 - 8:30 a.m. Workshop Registration Desk Open 8:30 a.m. Welcome and Introduction Session A: Wave Measurement -1 Chair: Val Swail A1 Quantifying Wave Measurement Differences in Historical and Present Wave Buoy Systems 8:50 a.m. R.E. Jensen, V. Swail, R.H. Bouchard, B. Bradshaw and T.J. Hesser Presenter: Jensen Field Evaluation of the Wave Module for NDBC’s New Self-Contained Ocean Observing A2 Payload (SCOOP 9:10 a.m. Richard Bouchard Presenter: Bouchard A3 Correcting for Changes in the NDBC Wave Records of the United States 9:30 a.m. Elizabeth Livermont Presenter: Livermont 9:50 a.m. Break Session B: Wave Measurement - 2 Chair: Robert Jensen B1 Spectral shape parameters in storm events from different data sources 10:30 a.m. Anne Karin Magnusson Presenter: Magnusson B2 Open Ocean Storm Waves in the Arctic 10:50 a.m. Takuji Waseda Presenter: Waseda B3 A project of concrete stabilized spar buoy for monitoring near-shore environement Sergei I. Badulin, Vladislav V. Vershinin, Andrey G. Zatsepin, Dmitry V. Ivonin, Dmitry G. 11:10 a.m. Levchenko and Alexander G. Ostrovskii Presenter: Badulin B4 Measuring the ‘First Five’ with HF radar Final Program 11:30 a.m. Lucy R Wyatt Presenter: Wyatt The use and limitations of satellite remote sensing for the measurement of wind speed and B5 wave height 11:50 a.m. -
Nearshore Current Pattern and Rip Current Occurrence at Jungmun Beach, Jeju by Numerical Computation 1. Introduction
한국항해항만학회지 제41권 제2호 J. Navig. Port Res. Vol. 41, No. 2 : 55-62, April 2017 (ISSN:1598-5725(Print)/ISSN:2093-8470(Online)) DOI : http://dx.doi.org/10.5394/KINPR.2017.41.2.55 Nearshore Current Pattern and Rip Current Occurrence at Jungmun Beach, Jeju by Numerical Computation Seung-Hyun An*․†Nam-Hyeong Kim *Coastal, Harbor and Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Sekwang Engineering Consultants Co., LTD. †Department of Civil Engineering, J eju National University, Jeju 63243, Korea Abstract : A nearshore current or a wave-induced current is an important phenomenon in a nearshore zone, which is composed of longshore, cross-shore, and rip currents. The nearshore current is closely related to the occurrence of coastal accidents by beachgoers. A considerable number of coastal accidents by beachgoers involving the rip current have been reported at Jungmun Beach. However, in studies and observations of the nearshore current of Jungmun Beach, understanding of the rip current pattern remains unclear. In this study, a scientific approach is taken to understand the nearshore current and the rip current patterns at Jungmun Beach by numerical computation for year of 2015. From results of numerical computation, the occurrence and spatial characteristics of the rip current, and the similarities between the rip current and incident wave conditions are analyzed. The primary results of this study reveal that the rip currents are frequently generated at Jungmun Beach, especially in the western parts of the beach, and that the rip currents often occur with a wave breaking height of around 0.5 ~ 0.7 m, a wave period of around 6 ~ 8 seconds, and a breaking angle of around 0 ~ 15 degrees. -
Stokes' Drift of Linear Defects
STOKES’ DRIFT OF LINEAR DEFECTS F. Marchesoni Istituto Nazionale di Fisica della Materia, Universit´adi Camerino I-62032 Camerino (Italy) M. Borromeo Dipartimento di Fisica, and Istituto Nazionale di Fisica Nucleare, Universit´adi Perugia, I-06123 Perugia (Italy) (Received:November 3, 2018) Abstract A linear defect, viz. an elastic string, diffusing on a planar substrate tra- versed by a travelling wave experiences a drag known as Stokes’ drift. In the limit of an infinitely long string, such a mechanism is shown to be character- ized by a sharp threshold that depends on the wave parameters, the string damping constant and the substrate temperature. Moreover, the onset of the Stokes’ drift is signaled by an excess diffusion of the string center of mass, while the dispersion of the drifting string around its center of mass may grow anomalous. PCAS numbers: 05.60.-k, 66.30.Lw, 11.27.+d arXiv:cond-mat/0203131v1 [cond-mat.stat-mech] 6 Mar 2002 1 I. INTRODUCTION Particles suspended in a viscous medium traversed by a longitudinal wave f(kx Ωt) − with velocity v = Ω/k are dragged along in the x-direction according to a deterministic mechanism known as Stokes’ drift [1]. As a matter of fact, the particles spend slightly more time in regions where the force acts parallel to the direction of propagation than in regions where it acts in the opposite direction. Suppose [2] that f(kx Ωt) represents a symmetric − square wave with wavelength λ = 2π/k and period TΩ = 2π/Ω, capable of entraining the particles with velocity bv (with 0 b(v) 1 and the signs denoting the orientation ± ≤ ≤ ± of the force). -
Calculating Stokes Drift: Problem!!! Stokes Drift Can Be Calculated a Number of Ways, Depending on the Specific Wave Parameters Available
Quantitative Investigation of Stokes Drift as a Surface Transport Mechanism for Oil Plan and Progress Matthew Clark Center for Ocean-Atmospheric Prediction Studies, Florida State University Introduction: Demonstrable Examples of Stokes Drift In April 2010, the Deepwater Horizon (DWH) exploded and sank, triggering a massive oil spill in the in the Northern Gulf of Mexico: northern Gulf of Mexico. The oil was transported both along the ocean surface and at various depths. The response of various government, private, and academic entities in dealing with the spill The plots below show how large Stokes drift velocities can be at any given time, based on primarily was enormous and swift. A great deal of data was collected. This data can be used to verify and wave speed and height. Obviously these factors are dependent on weather conditions, but the tune oil-spill trajectory models, leading to greater accuracy. largest values can approach 15-20 km/day of lateral motion due solely to Stokes drift. This alone demonstrates the importance of properly calculating or parameterizing Stokes drift in an oil- One of the efforts by governments in particular was the use of specialized oil-spill trajectory models trajectory model. to predict the location and movement of the surface oil slicks, in order to more efficiently direct resources for cleanup and impact mitigation. While these models did a reasonable job overall, there is room for improvement. Figure 2: Stokes drift calculated for April 28, 2010 at 03Z. A cold front was moving south across the region, prompting offshore flow. The maximum magnitude shown here is about Stokes Drift in Oil Trajectory Models: 10 km/day. -
Impacts of Surface Gravity Waves on a Tidal Front: a Coupled Model Perspective
1 Ocean Modelling Archimer October 2020, Volume 154 Pages 101677 (18p.) https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2020.101677 https://archimer.ifremer.fr https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00643/75500/ Impacts of surface gravity waves on a tidal front: A coupled model perspective Brumer Sophia 3, *, Garnier Valerie 1, Redelsperger Jean-Luc 3, Bouin Marie-Noelle 2, 3, Ardhuin Fabrice 3, Accensi Mickael 1 1 Laboratoire d’Océanographie Physique et Spatiale, UMR 6523 IFREMER-CNRS-IRD-UBO, IUEM, Ifremer, ZI Pointe du Diable, CS10070, 29280, Plouzané, France 2 CNRM-Météo-France, 42 av. G. Coriolis, 31000 Toulouse, France 3 Laboratoire d’Océanographie Physique et Spatiale, UMR 6523 IFREMER-CNRS-IRD-UBO, IUEM, Ifremer, ZI Pointe du Diable, CS10070, 29280, Plouzané, France * Corresponding author : Sophia Brumer, email address : [email protected] Abstract : A set of realistic coastal coupled ocean-wave numerical simulations is used to study the impact of surface gravity waves on a tidal temperature front and surface currents. The processes at play are elucidated through analyses of the budgets of the horizontal momentum, the temperature, and the turbulence closure equations. The numerical system consists of a 3D coastal hydrodynamic circulation model (Model for Applications at Regional Scale, MARS3D) and the third generation wave model WAVEWATCH III (WW3) coupled with OASIS-MCT at horizontal resolutions of 500 and 1500 m, respectively. The models were run for a period of low to moderate southwesterly winds as observed during the Front de Marée Variable (FroMVar) field campaign in the Iroise Sea where a seasonal small-scale tidal sea surface temperature front is present. -
CHAPTER 100 Another Approach to Longshore Current Evaluation M.A
CHAPTER 100 Another approach to longshore current evaluation M.A. Losada, A. Sanchez-Arcilla and C. Vidal A simple model to predict the longshore current velocity at the breaker line on a beach with oblique wave incidence, is presented. The model balances driving and resistance terms (gradients of radiation and turbulent Reynolds stresses and bottom friction) to get a general expression for the velocity. This equation shows explicitely the influence of Iribarren's parameter on longshore current generation. It has been tested with field and laboratory data, obtaining a reasonable fit to measured values. The resulting (predictive) model is expected to be valid for any type of breakers though the calibration has been mainly done for spilling and plunging types, due to the scarcity of results for other breakers. 1.- INTRODUCTION Longshore currents in the surf zone have been acceptably modelled using the radiation stress concept (Longuet-Higgins,1970). The longshore-trust (Nw/m ) due to an oblique wave approach, given by the gradient of the radiation stress, is balanced (in stationary and longshore-uniform conditions) by bottom friction and horizontal mixing (Bowen, 1969), (Longuet-Higgins, 1970). The gradient of the radiation stress is evaluated using sinusoidal theory (as a first approximation for slowly varying depths) and turns out to be proportional to the local rate of energy dissipation, D (joules/(m x sec)), regardless of its origin. Inside the surf zone a significant fraction of D comes from wave breaking because the turbulence associated to the breaking process is responsible for most of the dissipated energy. Bottom friction plays a minor role in this context, being important only in special cases (e.g.