Rocktopos Climbing Guide Costa Blanca Castells

RockTopos Climbing Guide Costa Blanca

RockTopo climbing guides are intended to provide documented information, directions and Castells routes for the rock climbing at the cliff or area covered by the guide. The guides are intended to supplement the publish guides to these climbing areas. The guides will be updated to reflect new routes and to provide current access details. RockTopo guides may be obtained by free download from the Internet. RockTopo guides may be distributed free of charge.

A free rock climbing guide provided by RockTopos http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/ A free climbing guide provided by RockTopos http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/ http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/ Published 2006-2007 Published 2006-2007 (Version 2) RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos INFORMATION English Graded List

8b+ All rights reserved. Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007. □ 8b Every effort has been made to make this publication as accurate as possible however the information □ provided is on an as-is basis. The descriptions of routes and the grades are recorded to assist the 8a+ climber to attempt routes within their ability. Where the correct route name is not known a substitute □ is added in brackets (). 8a □ The publication of this topo does not imply any right of access or right to climb on this cliff. 7c+ The author does not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third par- □ ties or property arising from the use of the information provided in this publication. 7c □ Timor New information and updates to this guide are available at http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/ 7b+ □ http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/ 7b □ Solitudes If you have any comments, additional routes or corrections please e-mail these to [email protected] □ Introspection 7a+ □ Endeavour □ Thrutch INFORMACIÓN Español □ La Cruz 7a Todos los derechos reservados. © RockTopos 2006-2007 del copyright. □ Era of Illusions 6c+ Se ha hecho todo tipo de esfuerzo de hacer esta publicación tan exacta como sea posible sin embar- □ Todal Recall go la información proporcionada está sobre una base básica. Las descripciones de rutas y de los grados están registrados para ayudas al escalador ha realizar las rutas dependiendo de su habilidad. 6c □ Solstice Donde el nombre correcto de la ruta no se sabe un substituto se agrega en paréntesis (). □ Saltos de Sapos La publicación de este topo no implica el derecho al acceso o el derecho de subir en este acantilado. 6b+ □ El autor no responsabiliza por ningún tipo de dais a lesión, u otro tipo de danos, en escaladores, teresas personas o levantamiento de propiedades por el uso de la información proporcionado en 6b One for GR esta publicación, □

Para mas información y actualización de esta guía puedes encontrarla en: 6a+ □ http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/ http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/ 6a □ Comentarios, rutas adicionales o correcciones: [email protected]

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to Graham Rawcliffe for finding the crag. Also recognition to Alan Austin for his efforts bolting and climbing many of the routes.

LOCATION ______SITUACIÓN

► Richard Davies on the 1st ascent of Solitudes (7b), Sector Barrel Face.

ENGLISH Castell de Castells in the province of Alicante, is your typical Spanish Pueblo that time seems to have passed by, but it is situated only 25km as the crow flies from Benidorm. Castell de Castells is located high in the mountains of the Marina Alta, where the highest peak of the mountain range Serrella is over 1000mts. The picturesque village is situated in the middle of these limestone mountains and has a history that dates back to the Moors and beyond as indicated by the 8000 year old cave paintings that are visible remains of early human presence. The paintings in the Pla de Petracos have been designated as a cultural heritage site. In the Eleventh century the Moors created their own kingdom here, bringing their own cul- ture and introducing crops including oranges, lemons, peaches, apricots, almonds and ol- ives. They built their own vineyards, cultivated and developed the mountainsides by building terraces and defended their whole conquered area with many castles and watchtowers, the ruins of which are still in existence today. The remains of Castle Penya Castelet, and many mosarabic trails litter the area around the village making it an ideal location for walking holidays and it is also becoming very popular with mountain bikers. Surprisingly climbers have not ventured to the village but have stayed closer to the coast. The local village people are friendly and speak Valenciano as their first language. In the village you have the choice of two supermarkets, a butchers, a hotel and 2 casa rurals the Spanish Bed & Breakfast. Typical of Spain there are several bars but also two banks with one having a cash machine. The village offers 2 bread shops, tobacconists, the town hall with the museum which is well worth a visit.

► Richard Davies on the top of Era of Illusions (7a). Page 4 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 25 RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos Recommended Bars ______Bares Recomendados Los Herbias tel. 96 551 8192 (good food & speak English) Calle San Jose 13 Bar Elekto’s (very typically Spanish)

Places to Stay ______Alojamientos Hotel Rural Serrella tel. 965 518 138 http://www.hotel-serrella.com The establishment consists of 8 rooms and 8 apartments, all comfortably equipped to make your stay enjoyable.

Casa Pilar tel. 965 518 157 http://www.casapilar.com The house dates back to the 19th century and is situated in the town centre, with six double bedrooms.

Casa Anna Vera tel. 902 887 264 2 double and 1 twin room all with en suite shower and WC. Both Casa Rurals speak English

Camping at El Castellet with full facilities.

ESPANOL Esta a 25km en línea recta desde Benidorm, Castell de Castells es un típico pueblo espa- ñol al cual el tiempo parece que ha pasado de largo. Situado en el medio de montañas de piedra caliza y rodeado por olivos y almendros, Castell es una villa pintoresca con una historia remontada al tiempo de los Moros y mucho antes con una cueva vieja con pinturas rupestres de mas de 7000 años de antigüedad. Visite de pueblo para conocer a la gente local, los cuales son muy amigables, hablan Va- lenciano como primera lengua. En el pueblo tienes dos tipos de supermercados a elegir, carnicerías, hotel y dos casas rurales. Típico de España, hay muchísimos bares y también dos bancos, una de ellos tiene cajero automático. La villa ofrece dos panaderias, estanco, la plaza con un museo el cual es muy visitado. En siglo 11 los Moros crearon su reino aquí, por su cultura introdujeron diferentes alimen- tos, como la naranja, el limon, el melocoton, el albaricoque, almedras y aceitunas. Forma- ron sus propios vinedos cultivados en la zona de la montana, creando terrenos y defen- diendolos con castillos y torres, los cuales nos quedan sus ruinas. Las ruinas del Castillo Penya Castelet, y muchas mas ruinas mozarabes residen en los alrededores de la villa, lo cual hace que sea un bonito lugar al que visitar en vacaciones, ademas el sitio se esta haciendose famoso para los mountain bikers. Sorpredentemente los escaladores no van mucho por la villa pero si por los alrededores de la costa.

Page 24 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 5 RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos English □ 3. Project...... ?? This publication is a rock climbing guide to the Castell crag in the Costa Blanca region of Spain. 16m. Starting right of Todal Recall before moving left and up the steep rib. This crag is composed of a series of walls and pinnacles situated above a dry river close to the town of Castell de Castells. On the detailed map the crags is named as Almelerals. So far the developments have occurred on the sector Pinturas and the Barrel Face. As the new sectors are developed this topo will be updated.

GENERAL APPROACH Approach by taking the CV720 or CV752 to Castell de Castells from either Jalon or Callosa. The road from Jalon being typically a smoother and quicker approach (although at the time of writing is being improved and may not be fully open until March 2007). From Calpe, the town can be reached in 40 minutes. On reaching the village of Castel de Castells there are three possible approaches.

1. Drive through Castells and take the CV720 signposted to Famorca and Facheca. On leaving Castells you pass over a bridge and from this point measure 4.6k (just after the 19k signpost) and look out for some masts/aerials on the right. On a left bend marked with twin chevron signs, take the track with a crash barrier on its right side. Go past the mast/aerials then down to some outbuildings. Park here unless you have a 4x4 in which case you can venture further down the track. The walls are easily visible across the other side of the valley. Follow the track down into the barranco to reach a damn wall. Step over this and continue down and along the river bed until below sector Barrel Face. From here take the obvious path up onto the hillside and keep heading towards The Cathedral. For sectors Barrel Face and Pinturas there is a track leading back left to the buttresses. This is about a 15 to 20 minute walk. 2. Immediately after leaving the parking and heading down the track there is a path down a rib leading past the obvious tower. This is much quicker although the descent (ascent) is steeper. It also avoids the awkward walk along the river bed. At the foot of the path cross straight over the river bed to join the previous path. This is also better if there is water in the river. 3. On reaching the outskirts of Castell de Castells from Jalon CV720, take the first turn back right into the valley bottom. Follow the road past the sewage treatment works to a junction at the ‘sheep sheds’ and refuse tip. Turn left and continue for 400mtrs and take the first stony track on the right (where the road bends sharply to the left) Keep right and drive across the riverbed shortly afterwards the track splits. Take the right fork and up steeply to arrive at a large flat terrace of olive trees. Park here sensibly. Walk up the narrowing track to an old ‘casita’ Follow the path down but it is better to keep on the higher terrace. Cross this and descend to the river be. Follow the stony riverbed to reach the boulders, to continue to The Cathedral follow the path around the back of King Boulder and follow an indistinct cained path to gain the good footpath below The Cathedral.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE The valley side faces south so the buttresses typically get the sun all day. Sector Unknown Buttress faces south east and looses the sun earlier. Sector Pinturas faces west and remains in the shade until around 2pm. The crags are 620 metres above sea level.

GEAR All the current routes are well protected by 10mm bolts and finish at good belays. The routes are long and a 70 meter rope is essential.

► Richard Davies on the top of Saltos de Sapos (6c). Photo: Graham Rawcliffe Page 6 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 23 RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos Sector 7: The King Boulder In the base of the river bed below the Cathedral is a scattering of boulders of various sizes. The King boulder is the largest of these reaching 16 metres in height. The rock is excellent smooth grey limestone with in-cut pockets. The boulder is best reached by walking up the river bed and the front face is in the sun from mid-day onwards.

□ 1. Saltos de Sapos...... 6c 16m. Start at the centre of the boulder. Pull over the initial bulge and step left to a flake. At the top step left to a groove and further flake. Gain the good jug then pull left to excellent holds. Go up and stretch around the top bulge to reach the belay. F.A. Richard Davies, Graham Rawcliffe 23rd August 2007

□ 2. Todal Recall ...... 6c+ 16m. Start just right of Saltos de Sapos pull past the initial bulge and go right to below the steep wall. Climb this on mostly good incut holds to gain a slab above. Going direct is thin or escape left into the crack. F.A. Richard Davies, Graham Rawcliffe 23rd August 2007 Page 22 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 7 RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos Español

Este publicación es un guía de escalada hacia la ciudad de Castell de Castells en la región española en la Costa Blanca. Este zona de escalada se compone de una serie de paredes y de pináculos situada sobre un río seco cerca de la ciudad de Castell de Castells. En el mapa detallado los zonas se nombran como Almelerals.

DIRECCIÓN—COMO LLEGAR Tomando la carretera de CV720 o el CV752 Castell de Castells desde Jalon o desde Callosa. El camino de Jalon que es típicamente mas fácil y rápido (aunque en estos momentos se está mejoran- do y no puede estar abierto completamente hasta el marzo de 2007). De Calpe a Castells se tarda unos 40 minutos.

En alcanzar la aldea de Castel de Castells hay tres acercamientos posibles.

1. Conducir a través Castells y tomar el CV720 dirección a Famorca y a Facheca. Dejando Castells pasar sobre un puente y desde este punto contar 4.6 kilómetros (enseguida después del poste indicador 19k) Mira a la derecha y veras algunos mástiles/antenas . En una curva izquierda mar- cada con las muestras gemelas del galón, tomar la pista con una barrera de desplome en tu derecha. Ir más allá del mástil/de las antenas a algunas dependencias. Aparcar aquí a menos que tengas un 4x4 en este caso puedes aventurarte más lejos de la pista. Los zonas son fácil- mente visibles a través del otro lado del valle. Seguir la pista abajo en el barranco a donde hay una valla o muro. Salta el muro y continúa hacia abajo y a lo largo de la cama del río hasta abajo del sector Barrel Face. De aquí tomar la trayectoria para arriba sobre la ladera y guardar la dirección hacia la catedral. Para los sectores Barrel Face y Pinturas hay una pista que conduce a la izquierda trasera a las paredes. Esto esta alrededor de una caminata minuciosa de 15 a 20.minutos 2. Inmediatamente de dejar el estacionamiento y dirigiendote abajo del camino hay una senda que te conduce más allá de la torre. Por aquí es mucho más rápido aunque la subida (bajada) es más escarpada. También evita la gran caminata lo largo del río. A pie de camino el rio cruza y hace que se junte con el camino anterior. Además esta opción es mejor si resulta haber agua en el río. 3. Para llegar a las cercanías de Castell de Castells desde Jalon, debes coger el primer giro a la derecha para llegar a la parte de abajo del valle. Sigue la carretera por donde hay unos edificios, coge la siguiente que gira a la izquierda y te llevara arriba del valle. Sigue esa carretera, cuando veas un giro a la izquierda deberás continuar recto siguiendo el cauce del rio. Sigue este camino por la parte izquierda hasta que llegues cerca de un edificio. Ahí podrás estacionar, y deberás de trepar donde el barranco comienza. El cauce del rio es piedra solida pero antes deberás de pasar por un camino escabroso, al cruzar un cactus comenzaras por un camino mas cómodo y confortable. Sigue adelante y cruzaras una terraza pegada al rio, también veras un gran pedrus- co (boulder) el cual le tendrás que bordear y a la derecha veras una indefinida cantidad de rutas debajo de la Catedral.

► The new routing team hard at work in December. Page 8 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 21 RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos Sector 5: Cathedral Walls CLIMA To the right of the big Cathedral buttress are easier slabs. El valle da cara al sur por lo tanto a las paredes les da el sol todo el día. El Sector desconocido da cara al sureste y pierde el sol mas temprano. El sector de Pinturas da al oeste y esta en la sombra sobre las dos de la tarde. Las paredes están a 620 metros sobre el nivel del mar.

MATERIAL Todas las rutas están protegidas por 10mm parabolts y terminadas en descuelgue buenos. Las rutas son muy largas y 70 metros de cuerda es esencial.

There undercut wall just left of the cave containing the paintings has so far a single route finishing at a belay above the small overlap.

Page 10 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 19 RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos Sector 4: The Pulpit □ 1. One for GR...... 6b The back of The Cathedral provides an impressive leaning wall. 20m. Start left of the cave and climb a short wall right of the rib. Move left around this to reach better rock. Go up the middle of the slab to a steep tricky finish. Belay just over the roof. F.A. Richard Davies, 31st December 2006

► Right: Richard Davies on the first ascent of One for GR (6b)

▼ Below: Graham Rawcliffe on the middle part of the same route.

This sector forms the side wall of the main buttress. There are paintings on the wall at the back corner guarded by the obligatory metal bars. The rock is excellent qual- ity and broken by cracks and pockets. Unfortu- nately and unlike the rest of the Costa Blanca both the cracks and pockets can offer poor holds making the climbs more diffi- cult than your initial ap- pearances would suggest.

Page 12 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 17 RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos Sector 3: The Cathedral □ 2. Era of Illusions ...... 7a The middle buttress turns out to be a free standing pinnacle with an impressive front face divided by 30m. Start right of the metal bars and climb direct up the right side of the groove. Gain the flake and large roofs and steep walls. continue easily up the wall to below the steep crack line. Careful footwork make climbing this past the orange hole straightforward to gain eventually excellent jugs below the belay. F.A. Richard Davies, Al Austin, 31st December 2006

□ 3. Introspection ...... 7b 30m. Start at the hole in the rock. Climb the cracked wall to reach a bulge. Take this direct and step left below a wide groove. Enter this and pull awkwardly right to gain good holds in the pockets. Pull steeply through the bulge to gain excellent holds up the rib to reach the belay. F.A. Richard Davies 30th August 2006

□ 4. Thrutch ...... 7a+ 30m. Start right of Introspection and thrutch up the unhelpful cracks to reach a semi-rest below the top bulge. Pull awkwardly up to the big hole and move rightwards to gain jugs leading to the shared belay. F.A. Richard Davies 30th August 2006

□ 5. Solstice ...... 6c 25m. Climb on good holds to a bolt and pull up past an obvious undercut that forms a shallow scoop. This is the crux. Continue upwards and rightwards to join Endeavour at the break. Finish up this. F.A. Al Austin, Graham Rawcliffe 28th December 2006

□ 6. Endeavour ...... 7a+ 25m. Climb the lower red wall to a pod beneath a blank section. Passing this is the crux and finding the nearly invisible holds provides the clue (or not!). Continue easily up cracks to the belay F.A. Al Austin 1st November 2006

Page 16 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 13 RockTopos Castell de Castells Castell de Castells RockTopos Sector 2: Barrel Face □ 4. La Cruz ...... 7a+ The front of the buttress 34m. Step onto an obvious large black foothold, marked with a cross. Go up to a tufa and move left provide a barrel shaped wall onto the wall using excellent pockets. Move back right and make a crux move to gain the groove. Go of good limestone with many up this and the wider groove above to where it steepens. Move on to the rib and back before continu- pockets and short cracks. ing up the much easier final slab to the belay. A 60m rope is NOT long enough to get down! Much higher the buttress F.A. Al Austin, Graham Rawcliffe 28th December 2006 curves back into easier angled slabs. The starts of the routes are much steeper than they initially look!

□ 1. Timor ...... 7c 36m. A series of slots lead up and right to better holds. Pull up with difficulty and follow better holds and then mostly jugs up the leaning wall. Continue up the slab above, pass some blocks and continue up a further slab to where the wall steepens. Step left and up to the belay. A 70m rope is ok to lower off but take 13 quickdraws. F.A. Richard Davies, 2nd January 2006

□ 2...... Project 18m. The line of bolts up the wall to the right, with fewer pockets and hand holds. F.A.

□ 3. Solitudes ...... 7b 34m. Start below a series of cracks containing a old tree root. Climb these with difficulty and swing right on better holds to gain a hole. Go up the middle of the wall and step left into a shallow corner. Continue up the slab to reach the flake. A 60m rope is NOT long enough to get down! F.A. Richard Davies 29th December 2006 ► Richard Davies making the 2nd ascent of La Cruz (7a+). Photo Al Austin Page 14 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2007 Page 15