Page 1 Class 8C Robinson GCR Class 8C LNER B1 The Class 8C was a trial build of a 4-6-0 soon after Robinson decided on a big engine policy. While impressed by the work done by Churchward at Swindon, he seems to have adopted a cautious approach so decided to build 4 locomotives, essentially with all the major features the same, but the 8C as a 4-6-0 and the 8B as a 4-4-2 Atlantic. 6’ 9” coupled wheels were fitted. The work was done by Beyer Peacock and was based on the earlier 4-6-0s, the so-called “fish” engines which were Class 8 under the Great Central way of categorising things.
Both were built in 1903/4 by Beyer-Peacock with saturated steam boilers. They were withdrawn in December 1947. Neither of them received BR numbers, their replacement by the Thompson B1 meant that neither were re-painted or re-numbered. They were re-classified as B18 in 1943.
195 was superheated in 1912 but this was later removed and replaced by the original saturated type in 1920. After grouping both were superheated quite quickly by the LNER.
As with the other Robinson locomotives, chimneys were a varying feature. The classical GCR chimneys were not approved by the LNER because of the loading gauge issues (in common with most of the GCR classes) so were replaced initially by the LNER flower-pot version. Later a pseudo-GCR chimney was fitted. Flattened or angular domes were used at various times, the angular domes seemed to appear during WW2. The movement of the whistle from the cab top onto the boiler happened for the same reasons of loading gauge.
For guidance:-
Number Year Chimney Dome Safety Valves
195 1912 Original Original Ramsbottom 5195 1923 Original Flattened Ramsbottom with casing 5195 1926 Flowerpot Flattened Ross 5195 1936 Gorton Pseudo Flattened Ross 5196 1930 Flowerpot Flattened Ross 5196 1943 Gorton Pseudo Flattened Ross 5195 1946 Gorton Pseudo Angular Ross 1480 1947 Gorton Pseudo Very Short Ross
Numbering Built Withdrawn GCR # LNER LNER Renum 1 LNER Renum 2 BR
12/1903 12/1947 195 5195 1470 1479 N/A 1/1904 12/1947 196 5196 1471 1480 N/A
Additional Notes LNER Numbering - there were huge variations in how LNER numbering was applied. Sizes varied, location carried, style varied, sometimes just ‘NE’, sometimes still with the GCR cab side plate and the letter ‘c’ added to the LNER number, sometimes on the tender but mainly on the cab once the LNER got themselves sorted out.
Photographs should be consulted when deciding what number to have. Of course in GC days it was all rather simpler.
Locomotives could have a carriage heater connection at the front as they became used on passenger trips which would mean that a heating pipe should also be added to the tender.
Smoke box wheels for this class lasted the life of the locomotives.
There are more versions of the chimneys and domes than catered for by the kit. The original chimney was of a much finer appearance and rapidly failed in service.
Ramsbottom 2 column valves were originally fitted and a branching arrangement used for the traditional 4-column appearance. These were originally uncased but casing was added later. Ross valves replaced the Ramsbottom valves during superheating. Tail rods on the cylinders were removed before grouping but I have no dates for this, I suspect it was quite early in the life of these locomotives as with other GC classes.On super-heating a snifting valve was fitted behind the chimney. At the same time the ash ejector was fitted on the right of the Smoke Box.
Centre steps were removed before the grouping.
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Livery was perplexing. Originally in full GCR green regalia, they soon reverted to lined black and then the LNER painted them green again until WW11, when they all became black again. The beading was always unpainted and usually unpolished under LNER management.
Tenders when built were the GCR 3,250 gallon version but these were soon replaced by the group standard with plated sides.
As with all models from this era, the best thing a modeller can do is refer to published literature such as
Ÿ “Locomotives of the LNER Part 2B” from RCTS
Ÿ “Locomotives of the Great Central Railway” by E. M. Johnson
Ÿ Photographs from various collections - usually available at shows such as Scaleforum and Scalefour North
Ÿ “Yeadon’s Register of LNER Locomotives - Part 22”
Important Note This kit has been designed for P4 or EM standards. Alternative parts have been designed into the brass and nickel silver frets. There are plenty of spare parts for the smaller items. Considerable additional work will be needed to build this kit to ‘00’ standards. Remember that ‘00’ wheels will cut into the boiler. For EM modellers care must be taken not to increase the upward movement of the wheels by filing out the axle slots in the frames should springing or compensation be used.
Notes on the kits and constituent parts The etched parts in this kit have been designed using a CAD program (TurboCAD 18.2) to ensure accuracy when fitting the parts together. Included in these notes are:-
Ÿ A list of etched and cast parts
Ÿ A list of additional and optional parts
Ÿ Drawings of the etch fret
Ÿ Detailed step-by-step instructions with the drawings extracted from the CAD originals
The original CAD drawings were prepared from GA drawings obtained from MOSI in Manchester and scaled at 12” to 1’. During the design process a number of compromises had to be made (such as the frame widths) because of the materials and parts available to the modeller and the P4 and EM standards. These compromises were used to draw a full size CAD drawing which was then used to provide the instructions and construction drawings and the final etch parts. The etch parts of the drawing were scaled down very accurately to produce etches for the 4 mm modeller.
The kit prototype was built by the designer. The first trial etch was used as a feasibility project and to write outline instructions. A second, partial, etch was needed to modify a few parts, to confirm the instructions and produce the assembly diagrams. A modeller familiar with etch brass kit construction should be able to build an accurate model if these instructions are followed, generally as written. However, fine-scale modellers being who we are, other ways of building the kit will be tried!
The Instructions More years ago than I care to remember I was involved in validating and writing Master Work Sheets for the Royal Air Force. These were sets of instructions that had to be followed to the letter by technicians world-wide even though they may never have met that particular piece of equipment before. Deviations were never permitted to the technicians – given that the machines being tested were vital to safe flying – and any permission to be deviant to be granted by senior authority was subject to a very close monitoring process.
However, senility and pending obsolescence have taken their toll – nobody is perfect – so if you find anything in these instructions you feel to be wrong it will be examined closely and amended where appropriate. Likewise, with the measurements of the parts, if there is something which you feel may be wrong then, please let me know. It would be nice if this was supported by drawings, or copies of drawings with time stamps if possible. Photographs are useful as well. But be warned, the available drawings are neither consistent nor accurate if my research means anything at all and there were so many cosmetic changes made to these locomotives over nearly 50 years that photographs without a date stamp must be treated with some caution.
Things to note In a few areas there are alternative ways of doing things. For this kit the springs have been printed using 3D CAD technology, they are fitted to the frames in the same way as traditional metal springs. Note that these are heat sensitive and will melt as quickly as white metal castings. Using these means that the wheels can also be removed for ‘servicing’.
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Continuous Springy Beams (CSBs) may be fitted - they seem to be all the vogue these days. I am a little uncomfortable with the idea for an arrangement such as a 4-6-0 and prefer to stick with the prototype idea where each axle is sprung by itself. A deciding factor was that the ‘ideal’ CSB points seemed to be exactly where the ‘scale’ frame spacers were placed. Short handrail knobs are used for the spring mounts. EM modellers may use frame blanks to remove the need for springing.
Stephenson’s Valve Gear would have been visible only by looking very carefully, for this engine. Extra parts are provided so you can experiment with the way it fits together. If you are tempted to try this then please do remember not to solder the parts in situ ‘after’ you have fitted your plastic centred wheels. The valve gear may be fitted in working order or as a very loose fit on the centre axle. In the second case they will be visible but will not move except around the axis of the axle.
The Stephenson’s Valve Gear is tricky to get working well and may be left out. The rest of the engine will still look good.
Rear and centre frame spacers - those supplied on the etch are to scale and may be fitted if desired - you can create frame spacers which are a good representation of the originals but these are difficult to see when the model is completed. In practice the rear spacer construction was used to steady the front of the fire box but this may be omitted without weakening the whole chassis. P4 and EM versions of these spacers are supplied together with some generic spares. These are not standard widths though. Use the spares in appropriate places if you do not need the scale spacers or wish to add your own parts for additional electrical pick-up.
There is substantial current collection capability in the tender. I was tempted not to have pick-ups in the locomotive since they would detract from the scale frame spacers and the valve gear and since there is plenty of space in the tender with or without the optional DCC chip this may be a good option. The two wires for the motor may then represent the vacuum and heating pipes.
The part numbers and descriptions (where space permits) are half etched on the frets as near to the parts as sensible and match the description that appears in the Parts List. These annotations will appear in the form “212”, or “223,224” or 213-217” or 218- 225+3”. Where something like “212EM” appears on the fret then that is the EM version of a part that will also have a P4 (unlabelled) part on the fret. Where the “+” appears in the part number it shows that additional parts have been included and the number following shows that 3 additional parts are on the fret. This allows for two possibilities a) losing very small parts in the carpet after cutting them from the fret b) practising the assembly in cases where some difficulty may be expected
Also on the fret there are a couple of blocks on which to practice your skill at pushing out rivets. Try these first to test the consistency of your efforts. Refer to photographs to check if these parts were actually riveted early in life, Robinson abhored ‘proud’ rivets and there is some photographic evidence to show that they may not have been used in the early days
The instructions also use the Part Number and Full Description. This may seem a little pedantic but can help where there may be some uncertainty. I also list all parts separately and do not group sets of parts together (i.e. Springs Qty 7) so that you will find the parts list will show each layer in a built up assembly as an individual item.
Assembly Instructions The frets are made from 12’ brass and 15’ N/S. They are fragile and the edges are sharp. Take care when assembling and especially when drilling out holes. Rotating brass or N/S will cause a lot of skin and tissue damage if the drill sticks and tears. For preference use a hand drill or pin chuck.
You may also find it easier to drill out all the locating holes while the parts are still within the main etch, and even to assemble some of the parts together - simply because this helps to hold at least one of the parts firmly in place.
Do not use force at any time, you are likely to bend the parts beyond repair. The tabs and slots are designed to be a semi-tight fit and on occasion a little easing with a strip of wet & dry sandpaper may be needed, especially on the slots in the smaller parts. If needed, where parts fit into a slot, very lightly dress the mating edges with a fine file.
Unless otherwise stated, the folds are all done with the half etch on the inside.
TAGS are on the fret and hold the individual parts in place when the fret is etched. TABS are on the parts to fit into SLOTS in the corresponding parts. In many areas on the fret TAGS have been arranged so that they fit onto TABS solely to help minimize any possible damage to the component when the TAGS are removed since the TABS will all in the end be invisible.
Do not confuse TAGS and TABS and file off any TABS!
It may be easier to do a number of preparatory jobs before removing parts from the main etches, such as opening out holes used to locate parts. There are a few rivets that have to be pushed through from the rear of some parts, the main frames for example. The smoke box wrapper was flush riveted when built but as the LNER super-heated the locomotives they would
Page 3 Class 8C Page 4 Class 8C normally have been replaced by the usual, highly visible rivets. Front buffers sometimes had rivets added after superheating but not necessarily at the same time. The smoke box wrapper may also have had further rivets added as well as the smoke box front around the door, which seemed to have happened in the late ‘30s and early 40s.
As always, if you are really keen on authenticity then the best thing to do is to examine a photograph of the engine you are modelling.
Decision time The kit has been designed to use frame spacers that approximate to the frames on the original engines, which means that stiffeners are also added to the inside and outside of the frames. Should you decide that adding these scale spacers is a step too far since they will be almost invisible then alternative spacers are included for P4 and EM.
Cosmetic spring mechanism are provided. These are removable using screws for those of us who like to be able to remove the wheel sets easily.
Sufficient parts are included to make this kit to either P4 or EM standards. Because the EM wheel back-to-back is a little smaller than P4, the spacers for EM are narrower and the frames will not have the distinctive kink at 4’ 0” from the front of the frame. Do not mix up the P4 and EM parts since you will find there a world of pain. Remember that EM parts are identified on the fret with a suffix ‘EM’ after the Part Number.
The kit as designed will go around a 1250 mm radius curve before the bogie wheels hit the frames. A tighter turning circle will mean that the main frames have to be cut back to allow the bogie wheels further side play, there are half etch marks on the inside to indicate the best place to cut. Note also that for something like a 1000 mm radius that the rear inside of the cylinders will need trimming.
Soldering I use ‘Nealetin’, a liquid solder with its own flux. This allows very close control of the initial solder join. Most initial joints will be secure using this (or a similar liquid solder). Motion parts should be soldered with a higher temperature solder. Once you are convinced things are square then it is possible to run a small fillet of solder along critical joins by first priming with a little ‘Nealetin’. I purchased my last tub from Hobby Holidays near Doncaster.
I have never used lead free solder for making models.
Square Frames There are a couple of mechanisms, neither of which I have used, which have been acclaimed for the ease with which they permit a square frame to be built. While these are expensive to start, many modellers have sung their praises.
Under Etched parts On occasion some parts may be a little under etched. The individual frets have outer frames which are the same width as the vast majority of the slots - just use a short section of this to free up any dubious slots. In any event it is always wise to prepare parts using a very fine file to remove any bits of ‘cusp’ left from the etching process, before assembly.
Health & Safety Experienced modellers will know all this already but -
Ÿ The frets are made from 12’ brass and 15’ nickel silver. They are fragile and the edges are sharp. Take care when assembling and especially when drilling out holes. Rotating brass (which tends to grab drill bits, especially near the end of their cut) or nickel silver will cause a lot of skin and tissue damage if the drill sticks and tears. For preference use a hand drill or pin chuck.
Ÿ Soldering entails the use of toxic materials such as lead and acid flux. Observe the warning notices that come with these products and especially use adequate ventilation. Wear suitable eye protection where needed.
Ÿ Solder also gets very hot when melted, as do the parts when heated to solder them together. Take care to hold parts carefully with insulating material where needed and to let them cool properly before handling. This is especially true if annealing parts so they can be bent into shape more easily. It is also true where several layers may have been used to build up an assembly.
Ÿ When painting, ensure proper ventilation, especially is using a two part etch solution. Some of these carry hazardous chemicals.
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Ÿ On a few occasions there will be a wire across the frames or bogie soldered at both ends. Do not be tempted to cut this after assembly with the normal wire cutters, this will force the frames apart and cause some damage. Use something like a triangular file or a disc cutter to make the first cut!
Note on bending parts with half etched lines Tighter bends may be achieved as follows if thought to be necessary (notes extracted from some thoughts by Will Litchfield).
1. Deepen the fold line with a triangular 4 cut needle file till a witness line shows though to the other side.
2. Hold the etch on a flat surface with a your trusty steel rule along the fold line.
3. Run a craft knife blade long under the etch to start the fold on it way.
4. When the edge stands well way from the flat surface, use another steel rule to complete the fold.
You get a sharper bend this way, because a of step 1 and it is accurately placed on the centre of the fold line.
Notes on wheel choices The frames on this kit are set to a design width of 16.15 mm for P4 so that with cusp removal on the spacers approximately 16.00 mm is the final frame width. This is slightly less than some kits, but more than other kits, especially those which were designed for the ‘00’ market and then had options added for the finer scale gauges of ‘P4’ and ‘EM’. To this width must be added the outer flange of the horn blocks, which will vary depending on horn block supplied - the ones supplied are from Markits.
For the fine scale gauges, side play can be an important issue especially where small radius curves of less than 1200 mm are to be tackled.
There are three wheel sets available, from Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Exactoscale. For P4, the Alan Gibson wheels have a rear boss which is 0.5 mm deep. This will impact side play, especially for P4 modellers and less so for EM modellers. This rear boss should be removed from Alan Gibson wheels.
Potential purchasers in the fine scale gauges are urged to consider these points. There are, as always, strategies to ameliorate such issues. Further reading on these points are in :-
Side Play Supplementary Notes
Design Notes
Both of which are available on the web site at www.greatcentralmodels.co.uk on the ‘instructions’ page.
Page 5 Class 8C Page 6 Class 8C Locomotive Chassis Brakes 55. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 1 0.015’ 0.375 mm Nickel Silver 56. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 1 57. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 1 Locomotive Frame 58. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 1 59. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 1 1. Frame Left - Sheet 1 60. Brake Frame Mount - Sheet 1 2. Frame Right - Sheet 1 61. Brake Pull - Sheet 3 3. Front Buffer Beam - Sheet 1 62. Brake Pull Rear Bracket - Sheet 3 4. Front Buffer Beam Overlay - Sheet 1 63. Brake Pull Rear Bracket - Sheet 3 5. Rear Buffer Beam - Sheet 1 64. Brake Pull Centre Bracket - Sheet 3 6. Rear Buffer Beam Overlay - Sheet 1 65. Brake Pull Centre Bracket - Sheet 3 7. Cylinder Spacer Front - Sheet 1 66. Brake Pull Front Bracket - Sheet 3 8. Cylinder Spacer Rear - Sheet 1 67. Brake Pull Front Bracket - Sheet 3 9. Cab Base Support - Sheet 3 68. Vacuum Cylinder Link - Sheet 3 10. Firebox Base - Sheet 3 69. Brake Mount - Sheet 3 11. Smoke Box Base - Sheet 3 70. Brake Mount - Sheet 3 12. Rear Frame Spacer - Sheet 3 71. Brake Mount - Sheet 3 13. Rear Frame Spacer Brace - Sheet 3 72. Brake Mount - Sheet 3 14. Rear Frame Spacer Stiffener Left - Sheet 1 73. Brake Mount - Sheet 3 15. Rear Frame Spacer Stiffener Right - Sheet 1 74. Brake Mount - Sheet 3 16. Centre Frame Spacer - Sheet 3 75. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 3 17. Centre Frame Spacer Stiffener Left - Sheet 1 76. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 3 18. Centre Frame Spacer Stiffener Right - Sheet 1 77. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 3 19. Valve Guide Support Spacer - Sheet 3 78. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 3 20. Valve Guide Support Spacer Stiffener Left - 79. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 3 Sheet 1 80. Brake Mount Top Layer - Sheet 3 21. Valve Guide Support Spacer Stiffener Right - 81. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 3 Sheet 1 82. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 3 22. Slide Bar Support Left - Sheet 3 83. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 3 23. Slide Bar Support Right - Sheet 3 84. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 3 24. Buffer Support Left - Sheet 1 85. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 3 25. Buffer Support Right - Sheet 1 86. Brake Shoe Base - Sheet 3 26. Sandbox Left - Sheet 1 87. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 3 27. Sandbox Right - Sheet 1 88. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 3 28. Brake Cylinder Support Left - Sheet 1 89. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 3 29. Brake Cylinder Support Right - Sheet 1 90. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 3 30. Guard Iron Left - Sheet 1 91. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 3 31. Guard Iron Right - Sheet 1 92. Brake Shoe Top Layer - Sheet 3 32. Buffer Mount - Sheet 1 93. Brake Cylinder Link - Sheet 3 33. Buffer Mount - Sheet 1 94. Brake Cylinder Link - Sheet 3 34. Coupler - Sheet 1 95. Rear Brake Pull - Sheet 3 35. Coupler - Sheet 1 96. Rear Brake Pull - Sheet 3 36. Rear Buffer Housing Plate - Sheet 1 37. Rear Buffer Housing Plate - Sheet 1 Coupling Rods 38. Footplate Fixing Bracket - Sheet 2 39. Front Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plate - Sheet 1 97. Coupling Rod Left Front - Sheet 2 40. Front Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plate - Sheet 1 98. Coupling Rod Left Rear - Sheet 2 41. Rear Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plate - Sheet 1 99. Coupling Rod Left Front Overlay - Sheet 2 42. Fire Box Brace - Sheet 1 100. Coupling Rod Left Rear Overlay - Sheet 2 43. Drag Link - Sheet 1 101. Coupling Rod Left Boss Front - Sheet 2 44. Drag Link - Sheet 1 102. Coupling Rod Left Boss Front - Sheet 2 45. Drag Link - Sheet 1 103. Coupling Rod Left Boss Centre - Sheet 2 46. Firebox Right - Sheet 1 104. Coupling Rod Left Boss Centre - Sheet 2 47. Firebox Left - Sheet 1 105. Coupling Rod Left Boss Rear - Sheet 2 48. Bogie Mount - Sheet 3 106. Coupling Rod Left Boss Rear - Sheet 2 49. Cylinder Head - Sheet 3 107. Coupling Rod Right Front - Sheet 2 50. Cylinder Head - Sheet 3 108. Coupling Rod Right Rear - Sheet 2 51. Cylinder Head - Sheet 3 109. Coupling Rod Right Front Overlay - Sheet 2 52. Cylinder Head - Sheet 3 110. Coupling Rod Right Rear Overlay - Sheet 2 53. Safety Loop - Sheet 1 111. Coupling Rod Right Boss Front - Sheet 2 54. Safety Loop - Sheet 1 112. Coupling Rod Right Boss Front - Sheet 2
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113. Coupling Rod Right Boss Centre - Sheet 2 168. Bogie Spring Hanger - Sheet 1 114. Coupling Rod Right Boss Centre - Sheet 2 169. Bogie Spring Hanger - Sheet 1 115. Coupling Rod Right Boss Rear - Sheet 2 170. Bogie Spring Hanger - Sheet 1 116. Coupling Rod Right Boss Rear - Sheet 2 Cross Heads Connecting Rods 171. Cross Head Rear - Sheet 2 117. Connecting Rod Left - Sheet 2 172. Cross Head Rear - Sheet 2 118. Connecting Rod Left Overlay - Sheet 2 173. Cross Head Overlay - Sheet 2 119. Connecting Rod Right - Sheet 2 174. Cross Head Overlay - Sheet 2 120. Connecting Rod Right Overlay - Sheet 2 175. Cross Head Inner Layers A - Sheet 2 121. Connecting Rod End Overlay - Sheet 2 176. Cross Head Inner Layers A - Sheet 2 122. Connecting Rod End Overlay - Sheet 2 177. Cross Head Inner Layers A - Sheet 2 123. Connecting Rod End Overlay - Sheet 2 178. Cross Head Inner Layers A - Sheet 2 124. Connecting Rod End Overlay - Sheet 2 179. Cross Head Inner Layers B - Sheet 2 180. Cross Head Inner Layers B - Sheet 2 Slide Bars 181. Cross Head Inner Layers B - Sheet 2 182. Cross Head Inner Layers B - Sheet 2 125. Slide Bar Left Upper Main - Sheet 1 183. Cross Head Top Overlay - Sheet 2 126. Slide Bar Left Lower Main - Sheet 1 184. Cross Head Top Overlay - Sheet 2 127. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 128. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 Valve Gear 129. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 130. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 185. Valve Rod Left Outer - Sheet 2 131. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 186. Valve Rod Left Inner - Sheet 2 132. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 187. Valve Rod Right Outer - Sheet 2 133. Slide Bar Right Upper Main - Sheet 1 188. Valve Rod Right Inner - Sheet 2 134. Slide Bar Right Lower Main - Sheet 1 189. Outer Rod End Strip - Sheet 2 135. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 190. Outer Rod End Strip - Sheet 2 136. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 191. Outer Rod End Strip - Sheet 2 137. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 192. Outer Rod End Strip - Sheet 2 138. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 193. Outer Rod End Spacer - Sheet 2 139. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 194. Outer Rod End Spacer - Sheet 2 140. Slide Bar Overlay - Sheet 1 195. Inner Rod End Strip - Sheet 2 196. Inner Rod End Strip - Sheet 2 Bogie 197. Inner Rod End Strip - Sheet 2 198. Inner Rod End Strip - Sheet 2 141. Bogie Frame - Sheet 1 199. Inner Rod End Spacer - Sheet 2 142. Bogie Side Overlay - Sheet 1 200. Inner Rod End Spacer - Sheet 2 143. Bogie Side Overlay - Sheet 1 201. Eccentric - Sheet 2 144. Bogie Equalising Bar - Sheet 1 202. Eccentric - Sheet 2 145. Bogie Equalising Bar - Sheet 1 203. Eccentric - Sheet 2 146. Bogie Equalising Bar - Sheet 1 204. Eccentric - Sheet 2 147. Bogie Equalising Bar - Sheet 1 205. Eccentric Bracket - Sheet 2 148. Bogie Stretcher 206. Eccentric Bracket - Sheet 2 149. Spring Face Plate - Sheet 1 207. Eccentric Bracket - Sheet 2 150. Spring Face Plate - Sheet 1 208. Eccentric Bracket - Sheet 2 151. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1 209. Eccentric Short Bracket - Sheet 2 152. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1 210. Eccentric Short Bracket - Sheet 2 153. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1 211. Eccentric Short Bracket - Sheet 2 154. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1 212. Eccentric Short Bracket - Sheet 2 155. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1 213. Lifting Arm - Sheet 2 156. Spring Backing Plate - Sheet 1 214. Lifting Arm - Sheet 2 157. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1 215. Lifting Arm - Sheet 2 158. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1 216. Lifting Arm - Sheet 2 159. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1 217. Rotation Arm - Sheet 2 160. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1 218. Rotation Arm - Sheet 2 161. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1 219. Rotation Arm - Sheet 2 162. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1 220. Rotation Arm - Sheet 2 163. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1 221. Rotation Arm End Spacer - Sheet 2 164. Bogie Pivot - Sheet 1 222. Rotation Arm End Spacer - Sheet 2 165. Hex Bolt Head - Sheet 1 223. Rotation Arm End Spacer - Sheet 2 166. Hex Bolt Head - Sheet 1 224. Rotation Arm End Spacer - Sheet 2 167. Bogie Spring Hanger - Sheet 1 225. Balance Arm - Sheet 2
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226. Valve Rod End - Sheet 2 P4 Only 227. Valve Rod End - Sheet 2 26. Spring Wire Ernie Ball Gauge 12 (2x200 mm Spares supplied) 27. Drwg. 226 MarkitsRAXFBsq601 axle boxes (6 228. Alternative Cylinder Cover Left supplied) 229. Alternative Cylinder Cover Right
Templates 230. Eccentric Template - Sheet 2 231. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3 232. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3 233. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3 234. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3 235. P4 Width Template - Sheet 3
EM Only 236. Drwg. 230 EM Blanking Plates
Common Parts 1. Reversing Axle Tube 1/16”x1/32” (1.6 mm x 0.8 mm) Eileen’s BRT0201G (50 mm supplied) 2. Reversing Axle Rod 1/32” (0.8 mm) Eileen’s BSW080A (20 mm supplied) 3. Valve Rod Tube 3/32” x 1/16” (2.4 mm x 1.6 mm) Eileen’s BRT0302G 300 mm (20 mm supplied) 4. Valve Rod 1/16” (1.6 mm) Eileen’s BSW116A (120 mm supplied) 5. Brake Spacers 1 mm long 1/16”x1/32” (1.6 mm x 0.8 mm) Eileen’s BRT0201G ( cut from tube - 6) 6. Brass Wire 0.3 mm Eileen’s BSW031A (250 mm x2 supplied) 7. Brass Wire 0.45 mm Eileen’s BSW045A (250 mm x2 supplied) 8. Brass Wire 0.7 mm Eileen’s BSW070A (250 mm x1 supplied) 9. Coupling Rod Rivet Eileen’s 08MBV07B Domehead Brass Rivet M0.8mm x 7mm 100 Pack (2 supplied) 10. Vacuum Pipe Markits (1 supplied) 11. Steam Heating Pipe Markits (1 supplied) 12. Drwg. 203 Footplate Side Cover (2 supplied) 13. Drwg. 210 Centre Axle - drilling guide 14. Drwg. 211 Counter Weight (1 supplied) 15. Drwg. 212 Cylinder Front (2 supplied) 16. Drwg. 215 Eccentric Plate (4 supplied) 17. Drwg. 216 Rear Buffer (2 supplied) 18. Drwg. 217 Reversing Axle - assembly guide 19. Drwg. 218 Vacuum Cylinder (1 supplied) 20. Drwg. 219 Bogie Pivot (1 supplied) 21. Drwg. 225 Bogie Axle Box (4 supplied) 22. Drwg. 209 Centre Axle Coil Spring (2 supplied) 23. Brass Round Tube 0.8mm x 0.4 x 305mm (MT2) Eileen’s BRT0804D (used for springs and smoke box hinges) (50 mm supplied) 24. 12 BA Bolts (2 supplied) 25. 14 BA C/S (12 supplied)
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52. Fire Box Brace - Sheet 5 Locomotive Body 53. Fire Box Brace - Sheet 5 54. Fire Box Brace Sheet 5 0.012’ 0.3 mm Brass Cab Boiler 55. Cab Side Left - Sheet 5 1. Boiler - Sheet 4 56. Cab Side Left Overlays - Sheet 5 2. Boiler Front - Sheet 4 57. Cab Side Right - Sheet 5 3. Boiler Rear - Sheet 4 58. Cab Side Right Overlays - Sheet 5 4. Smoke Box Frame +EM- Sheet 6 59. Cab Side Splasher Overlays - Sheet 5 5. Smoke Box +EM - Sheet 6 60. Cab Side Splasher Overlays - Sheet 5 6. Smoke Box Wrapper - Sheet 5 61. Cab Opening Edging Left Strip - Sheet 5 7. Smoke Box Wrapper Riveted - Sheet 5 62. Cab Opening Edging Right Strip - Sheet 5 8. Smoke Box Step - Sheet 4 63. Cab Front - Sheet 5 64. Cab Window Overlay - Sheet 5 Footplate 65. Cab Window Overlay - Sheet 5 9. Footplate Left +EM - Sheet 6 66. Cab Window Overlay - Sheet 5 10. Footplate Right +EM - Sheet 6 67. Cab Window Overlay - Sheet 5 11. Footplate Rear +EM - Sheet 6 68. Roof - Sheet 5 12. Footplate Front - Sheet 6 69. Reversing Arm Cab End - Sheet 4 13. Footplate Hinge - Sheet 6 70. Reversing Arm Chassis End - Sheet 4 14. Footplate Hinge - Sheet 6 71. Reversing Arm Cab Arm - Sheet 4 15. Lamp Bracket Footplate - Sheet 6 72. Reversing Arm Rear Actuator - Sheet 4 16. Lamp Bracket Footplate - Sheet 6 73. Reversing Arm Front Actuator - Sheet 4 17. Lamp Bracket Footplate - Sheet 6 74. Reversing Arm Front Actuator Top - Sheet 4 18. Valence Left - Sheet 4 19. Valence Right - Sheet 4 Cupboards 20. Splasher Side Left Front - Sheet 4 75. Cupboard Left - Sheet 5 21. Splasher Side Left Centre - Sheet 4 76. Cupboard Right - Sheet 5 22. Splasher Side Right Front - Sheet 4 77. Door Hinge - Sheet 5 23. Splasher Side Right Centre - Sheet 4 78. Door Hinge - Sheet 5 24. Not Defined 79. Door Hinge - Sheet 5 25. Not Defined 80. Door Hinge - Sheet 5 26. Splasher Top Left Front +EM - Sheet 6 81. Footboard Left - Sheet 5 27. Splasher Top Left Centre +EM - Sheet 6 82. Footboard Right - Sheet 5 28. Splasher Top Right Front +EM - Sheet 6 83. Shelf Left - Sheet 5 29. Splasher Top Right Centre +EM - Sheet 6 84. Shelf Right - Sheet 5 30. Footplate Support Top+EM - Sheet 6 85. Cab Handle - Sheet 5 31. Footplate Support Top+EM - Sheet 6 86. Cab Handle - Sheet 5 32. Footplate Support Top+EM - Sheet 6 87. Cab Handle - Sheet 5 33. Footplate Support Top+EM - Sheet 6 88. Cab Handle - Sheet 5 34. Footplate Support Bracket+EM - Sheet 6 89. Cab Floor - Sheet 5 35. Footplate Support Bracket+EM - Sheet 6 36. Footplate Support Bracket+EM - Sheet 6 Steps 37. Footplate Support Bracket+EM - Sheet 6 90. Centre Step Plate Left - Sheet 4 38. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 4 91. Centre Step Left Upper - Sheet 4 39. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 4 92. Centre Step Left Lower - Sheet 4 40. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 4 93. Centre Step Plate Right - Sheet 4 41. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 4 94. Centre Step Right Upper - Sheet 4 42. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 4 95. Centre Step Right Lower - Sheet 4 43. Oil Filler Caps - Sheet 4 96. Rear Step Plate Left - Sheet 4 Fire Box 97. Rear Step Left Upper - Sheet 4 98. Rear Step Left Lower - Sheet 4 44. Fire Box - Sheet 4 99. Rear Step Stabiliser - Sheet 4 45. Fire Box Cab - Sheet 4 100. Rear Step Plate Right - Sheet 4 46. Inspection Cover - Sheet 5 101. Rear Step Right Upper - Sheet 4 47. Inspection Cover - Sheet 5 102. Rear Step Right Lower - Sheet 4 48. Inspection Cover - Sheet 5 103. Rear Step Stabiliser - Sheet 4 49. Inspection Cover - Sheet 5 50. Inspection Cover - Sheet 5 Cylinders 51. Fire Box Brace - Sheet 5 104. Cylinder Cover Left - Sheet 4
Page 9 Class 8C Page 10 Class 8C
105. Cylinder Cover Right - Sheet 4 8. Drwg. 203 Footplate Side Cover (2 supplied) 9. Drwg. 205 Oil Boxes (6 supplied) Springs 10. Drwg. 206 Sand Box Filler (2 supplied) 11. Drwg. 258 Smoke Box Door (1 supplied) 106. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4 12. Washout Plugs Eileen’s LF4WP01 Pkt 25 £5.00 (8 107. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4 supplied) 108. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4 13. Hand Rail Knobs Markits M4HRKM 2.0 mm Pkt 12 109. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4 £2.40 (6 supplied) 110. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4 14. Hand Rail Knobs Markits M4HRKS 1.6 mm Pkt 12 111. Axle Box Spring Mount - Sheet 4 £2.40 (3 supplied) Wheels 15. Drwg. 229 Whistle Markits M4WhistGW2 (1 supplied) 112. Centre Wheel Weights - Sheet 5 16. Drwg. 201 Backhead (1 supplied) 113. Centre Wheel Weights - Sheet 5 17. GC Smokebox Door Handle M4SBDH4 114. Wheel Weights - Sheet 5 115. Wheel Weights - Sheet 5 GCR Class 8C 116. Wheel Weights - Sheet 5 18. Drawing 254 Dome Original (1 supplied) 117. Wheel Weights - Sheet 5 19. Drawing 251 Chimney Original (1 supplied) Bits and Pieces 20. 4M778 Alan Gibson GCR 4 column 118. Lamp Bracket Top - Sheet 4 LNER B1 119. Smoke Box Handle - Sheet 4 21. Drwg. 252 Chimney Flowerpot (1 supplied) 120. Smoke Box Handle - Sheet 4 or Drwg. 253 Chimney GCR Pseudo (1 supplied) 121. Regulator Lever - Sheet 4 22. Drwg. 255 Dome Flattened (1 supplied) 122. Regulator Plate - Sheet 4 or Drwg. 266 Dome Angular (1 supplied) 123. Regulator Plate - Sheet 4 23. Drwg. 228 Snifter (1 supplied) 124. Footplate Connection - Sheet 4 24. Drwg. 231 Ross Pop Safety Valves Markits 125. Smoke Box Door Hinge - Sheet 4 MASftyV7 £3.26 (1 pair supplied) 126. Cab Roof Blanking Plate - Sheet 5 127. Ramsbottom Actuators - Sheet 4 Additional Parts Required - not part of the kit 128. Ramsbottom Actuators - Sheet 4 129. Ramsbottom Side Cover - Sheet 5 Wheels, motors and gears are a personal choice - these were 130. Not Defined the ones used by the designer 131. Not Defined 25. Wheels Alan Gibson 4880B 6’ 8” Dia. Assembly Aids 26. Crank Pins 4M42B Alan Gibson 27. Bogie Wheels G4842 3’ 6” Dia. Alan Gibson 132. Valence Spacing Aids +EM - Sheet 5 28. High Level Gear Box HighFlier 40:1 2mm shaft 133. Valence Spacing Aids +EM - Sheet 5 29. Mashima Motor 2mm shaft 134. Valence Spacing Aids +EM - Sheet 5 30. Buffers AG 4M4901 £5.00 set of four or 4M4909 135. Valence Spacing Aids +EM - Sheet 5 or Markits LNER Stepped 136. Footplate Assembly Aid - Sheet 4 31. Markits Double Slide bar and Crosshead 137. Cab Assembly Aid - Sheet 5 (M4CRHDSns) 138. Cab Assembly Aid - Sheet 5 32. Markits Screw Couplings MCOUP/S 139. Fire Box Support Aid - Sheet 5 140. Fire Box Support Aid - Sheet 5 Recommended Tool 141. Belpaire Filing Aid - Sheet 5 If 14 BA bolts are used to fix the cosmetic springs Common Parts CSTB141 Carbon Steel Taper Tap 14BA Eileen’s £10.00 1. Cab Roof Front Brace (‘L’) Eileen’s L01010D 1.0 mm x 1.0 mm x 250 mm £1.50 (80 mm supplied) Recommended little helpers 2. Cab Roof Centre Brace (‘T’) Eileen’sT010101E 1.0 mm x 1.0 mm x 250 mm £1.50 (80 mm supplied) Wood - 100mm x 20mm x 45mm 3. Cab Roof Rear Brace (‘L’) Eileen’s L01010D 1.0 Balsa - 3-4mm thick mm x 1.0 mm x 250 mm £1.50 (80 mm supplied) Dress Makers Pins 4. Brass Wire 0.3 mm Eileen’s BSW031A £2.50 for Miniature Bulldog Clips 10 (250 mm x2 supplied) 5. Brass Wire 0.45 mm Eileen’s BSW045A £2.50 for 10 (250 mm x2 supplied) 6. Brass Wire 0.7 mm Eileen’s BSW070A £2.50 for 10 (250 mm x1 supplied) 7. 12 BA Nuts (4 supplied)
Page 10 Class 8C Page 11 Class 8C Main Frame Preparation 1. Frame Layout Note
You may wish to leave the main frames in the fret while preparing them. I have found this a lot easier and only remove the frames from the fret when I am ready to join the frames together
Note 9. Cab Base Support There seems to be a little photographic evidence that when first built there were no visible, proud rivets on the frames under the 0.65 mm smoke box. Check photographs if this is of concern. Your designer 0.5 mm Wheel Height Centres
has assumed that the rivets should be pushed through - they Spring Mounts make a strong artistic statement ...
Before pushing out the rivets around the top of the frame under
the smoke box and those on the fire box sides you may wish to Cosmetic Removable Springs test the pressure needed using the spare half etched holes which 0.5 mm are on Sheet 1. 0.65 mm 10. Fire Box Base Note that the frames on this locomotive have a distinct bend 0.7 mm
inwards under the smoke box and this is modelled in P4 only. Brake Shaft
Since the frames need to be closer together for EM gauge, they 0.65 mm must remain straight and therefore a short piece of 0.45 mm Spring Mounts
wire should be soldered into the bend slot to strengthen the 0.33 mm frame at this point. Fire Box Fitting Holes 0.33 mm Note - small radius running 12,13,14,15. Rear Frame Spacer
On the inside of the frames above the position of the bogie are 0.65 mm half etched lines. These indicate the cutting needed to allow the 0.33 mm bogie to move much more than would be prototype practice. If 0.7 mm your curves are less than 1200 mm radius then these must be cut 0.33 mm out. It is better to do this when the frames are assembled and Brake Shaft have some rigidity. 0.65 mm 0.5 mm
Push out the rivets under the smoke box, be careful with the top 16-18. Centre Frame Spacer row, they are close to the edge. Use the “Play Pen” area on Sheet Reversing Arm 2 to practice. Spring Mounts 0.8 mm
Drill out the frame stiffener locating holes to 0.3 mm in Frame Cosmetic Removable Springs Left (1) and Frame Right (2), 5 each side - see picture right. 0.65 mm 0.5 mm
Measure the short handrail tails which will be used for the 19-21. Valve Guide 0.7 mm
springs (they will be about 0.65 mm diameter). Drill out the 6 0.33 mm spring mount positions each side shown from the inside through Brake Shaft the half etch marks (and marked as 0.65 mm in the picture on the right) if you require active springing. Push the handrails 26,27. Sand Boxes supplied into place on the inside of the frames, using a length of 0.3 mm steel wire through the holes to align them and solder them into place. Carefully file off the protruding tails on the outside of the frames. Cut Out Guides for small radii running 11. Smoke Box Base Drill out the holes for the cosmetic, removable springs, 4 each side, which are located either side of the horn block spacing for the front and rear axles only, to 0.80 mm to clear 16 BA c/s bolts (not supplied) or 1.05 mm to clear 14 BA c/s bolts (supplied).
Carefully countersink the outer face very slightly for the fixing 48. Bogie Mount bolts.
Drill out the brake shaft holes, 3 each side, to 0.7 mm - see picture right. 38. Footplate Fixing Bracket 24,25. Buffer Supports
Page 11 Class 8C Page 12 Class 8C
Drill out the fire box fitting holes, 2 each side, to 0.45 mm - see picture right. 3. Main Frame Spacers
Drill out the reversing arm holes to 0.8 mm - see picture right.
Drill out the fire box fitting holes to 0.45 mm, 2 each side.
Fire Box Note 38. Footplate Fixing Bracket The firebox is inset from the sides of the frames as on the prototype. This is located into the inside of the frame using 48. Bogie Mount locating holes and brass wire.
Locate Fire Box Left (47), Fire Box Right (46) and Fire Box Brace (42) on the fret, drill the 0.45 mm holes in the fixing tabs, press out the rivets from the back and then remove from the fret. Bend to shape and and solder into place inside the main frames using
0.45 mm wire to locate them. Fit Fire Box Brace (44) at the front Half view - left side only shown
of the fire box at the correct angle to match the front slope only 11. Smoke Box Base if you are using the supplied P4 or EM spacers.
2.Fire Box 19-21. Valve Guide Spacer
Left side shown with front
of chassis on the left of Half view - left side only shown picture 16-18. Centre Frame Spacer Scale frame cross members Locate parts Rear Frame Spacer Stiffener Left (14) and Rear Frame Spacer Stiffener Right (15). Drill out the very small locating holes to 0.3 mm. Remove these parts from the fret and 12-15. Rear Frame Spacer with the aid of some 0.3 mm brass wire locate and solder into place on the inside of both frames.
Locate parts Centre Frame Spacer Stiffener Left (17) and Centre Frame Spacer Stiffener Right (18). Drill out the very small locating holes to 0.3 mm. Remove these parts from the fret and with the aid of some 0.3 mm brass wire locate and solder into place on the inside of both frames. 10. Fire Box Support Locate parts Valve Guide Support Spacer Stiffener Left (20) and Valve Guide Support Spacer Stiffener Right (21). Drill out the very small locating holes to 0.3 mm and the larger holes to 0.7 mm. Remove these parts from the fret and with the aid of some 0.3 mm brass wire and some 0.7 mm brass wire for the larger, lower holes locate and solder into place on the inside of both frames.
Generic frame cross members
On Sheet 3 there are 2 generic cross members for either P4 or 9. Cab Base Support EM. You may wish to use these in place of the scale cross members. They are labelled as P4 or EM. Choose the locations
Page 12 Class 8C Page 13 Class 8C you prefer to use bearing in mind possible locations for pickup wiring and make a light pencil mark. Note that you will probably not need more than one of these and that it must not interfere with the action of the Stephenson’s Valve Gear if that is fitted.
Connecting the frames together Note P4 Only
The frames have a half etch bend close to the front. Now is the time to very carefully bend this inwards (it is only 2 degrees), Use a pair of flat nosed pliers to hold the frames so that the elongated hole for the cylinder spacers is covered and will be held flat. The smoke box base is etched to allow for this bend.
Note
The etching process is not always accurate so it may be wise to lightly file the cusp from the spacers where they meet the frames before fitting, it is usually the tiniest bit that is needed. In an ideal world the width over the frames should be no more than 16.16 mm for P4 and 14.80 for EM. Use +/- 0.1 mm as a general guide although it won’t hurt too much if a little more under sized.
Use the P4 or EM Width Templates (231-235) to check if you do not have a micrometer.
Only solder the next parts solidly into place after they have all been fitted and checked. Even with very light tacking the frames will be solid enough work on.
Remove parts Cab Base Support (9 or 9EM), Fire Box Base (10 or 10EM), Smoke Box Base (11 or 1EM) and Bogie Mount (48 or 48EM) from the fret, check the tabs are clean, bend to shape and one by one do a test fit into between the two frames. Smoke Box Base (11 or 1EM) should have an 8 BA nut soldered under it to enable the body and chassis to be screwed together. This can then be done through the chimney or the Front Footplate Fixing Bracket (38).
Solder each of these parts into place very lightly starting with Cab Base Support (9 or 9EM). Ensure it is fitted the correct way, the larger holes are on the underneath and are there to fit the cab and upper body to the chassis.
Fire Box Base (10 or 10EM) should be fitted in place and initially soldered on one side only.
Remove parts Valve Guide Support Spacer (19 or 19EM), Centre Frame Spacer (16 or 16EM), Rear Frame Spacer (12 or 12EM) and Rear Frame Spacer Brace (13 or 13EM). Solder these in place checking the width of the frames carefully after each one (16.20 mm for P4 and 14.80 for EM).
Once these are fitted and you are certain the frame is within the specified width then the Firebox Base (10 or 10EM) can be soldered up on both sides.
Ensure that the large holes in Valve Guide Support Spacer (19 or 19EM) are clear so that the 2.4 mm tubing can fit in them. The Smoke Box Base (11 or 11EM), Valve Guide Support Spacer (19 or 19EM) and Bogie Mount (51 or 51EM) can now be added to the frames.
Make sure there is no ‘fillet’ of solder on the upper side of Smoke Box Base (11) or the smoke box itself will not seat correctly.
Check the chassis is still square after soldering each part lightly into place. 4. Slide Bar Supports and Sand Box Slide Bar Supports Locate parts Slide Bar Support Left (22), Slide Bar Support Right (23). Drill out the very small locating holes to 0.3 mm and the larger holes to 0.7 mm - the larger hole is also the Sandbox Left (26) brake pivot axle. Remove these parts from the fret and with the aid of the locating wires solder to the outside of both frames noting that the stiffener part is to the rear of the frames.
Brake Frame Mounts Remove parts Brake Frame Mounts (55-58) from the fret and solder to the outside of the frames using 0.7 mm brass wire to locate for the centre and rear wheels only. When trimming this 0.7 mm wire do not use a pair of cutters between the frames since this will seriously distort them. Use a disc cutter or a triangular file to grind away a cut in the centre. Slide Bar Support Left (22)
Page 13 Class 8C Page 14 Class 8C
Now add the brake spacers - these are used to ensure the 5.Cylinders and Slide Bars brake shoes are at the correct distance from the frames. They are made from brass tubing which is 1/16” x 1/32” (1.6 mm x 0.8 mm ) and are 1 mm in length. Solder into place. Later, the Cylinder Spacers (7,8) brake shoe assembly will simply clip over these.
Sand Boxes Remove parts Sandbox Left (26) and Sandbox Right (27) from the fret and fold to shape - locate the tabs just to the rear of the smoke box and solder lightly to the main frames.
Caveat Cylinder Heads (49-52)
It will look nice if you fit the buffers next but it will be wrong because it may inhibit the ease with which the parts of the Slide Bar Assembly cylinders can be fitted such as when holes need to be reamed out slightly etc Cylinders Note
The Cylinder Spacers (7,8) have a number of guide holes in them. The inner pair are for the valve guide rod tubing. Just outside of these are two 0.3 mm holes which can be used as guides for locating the spacers accurately across the frames (use the inner pair of these for EM and the outer for P4). There are also two 0.45 mm holes each end which are used to locate the Cylinder Heads (52-55). The two rectangular holes locate the slide bars.
You may wish to consider using the Markits Double Slide bar and Crosshead (M4CRHDSns) instead of the supplied cross head.
Drill out the 0.3 mm and 0.45 mm holes. Drill the larger, central, holes for the valve rod to 1.6 mm minimum, for an easier fit of the working valve gear this should be 1.8 mm. Drill or ream the large outer holes to 2.4 mm if you intend to use a tube down the centre of the cylinders or 2.1 mm for the Markits crosshead.
Remove Cylinder Spacers (7,8) from the fret and fix into the correct position using 0.3mm brass wire as a guide, the outer holes are for P4 and the inner holes are for EM. The cylinder tubes fit in the central end holes with the two rectangular holes used to locate the slide bars.
Drilling Note
When drilling out the cylinder heads it may help to stabilise them if you solder temporarily a length of 0.9 mm brass wire across one side since drilling them to 2.4 mm will put quite a strain on the tag holding them into the etch.
Drill the two small holes in Cylinder Heads (49-52) to 0.45 mm. Drill the large centre hole to 2.4 mm or for the Markits crosshead 2.1 mm. Remove Cylinder Heads (49-52) from the fret and solder securely in place on the front of the front cylinder support and the rear of the rear cylinder support using 0.45 mm brass wire to align them.
For the supplied crosshead, fit a length of 3/32” x 1/16” brass tube (2.4 mm x 1.6 mm) so that it is just proud at the front and is 2 mm proud at the rear, 14 mm in total. Alternatively, for the longer version of the tail rods (removed before ‘grouping’) it may be useful to make this longer so that if fits through the cylinder front and the 1.6 mm rod used to represent the actual tail rod will sit in it securely, although not too far down so that it restricts the cross head!
Slot short lengths of 1.6 mm rod through the inside holes of the Cylinder Spacers (7,8) so that it also runs through the Valve Guide Spacer (19). Then slot a short length of 2.4 mm tube into the Valve Guide Spacer (19) so that at the rear there is 2mm showing and about 4 mm at the front. This will align the rods to the valve chest if fitted along with the Stephenson’s Valve Gear and simulates the bearing and oiler on the full size locomotive. Solder this in place and remove the 1.6 mm rod.
Slide Bars Note
Alternatively, the slide bars may be made up from 1 mm x 1 mm nickel silver bar, soldering one part on the top of the other and filing to shape or using 2 mm x 1 mm bar and again filing to shape.
Parts 125-140 form Qty 4 identical slide bars. These are built up in four layers and soldered together with the aid of 0.3 mm brass wires to locate and secure the individual layers. These are then filed to the correct shape.
Page 14 Class 8C Page 15 Class 8C
6. Slide Bar Measurements
Note that the short layer at the top is positioned the correct way around!
Remove Slide Bar Left Upper Main (125) (long), Slide Bar Overlay (127) (long with half etch section), Slide Bar Overlay (128) (medium) and Slide Bar Overlay (129) (short) from the etch. Locate using 0.3 mm brass rod and solder up well using high melting point solder with Nealetin as the flux - or similar.
Complete the other slide bar parts as above and file to correct profile. They should be 1 mm wide and at the deepest point 1.2mm.
Insert a pair of slide bars into each side of the frames and check they locate correctly and not too tightly into the cylinder head rectangular slots with a small protrusion at the front. Ensure that they fit between the Slide Bar Supports (22,23).
Do not solder up at this stage, first the crossheads must be assembled and then tested for a smooth sliding fit! It is likely that a small adjustment with a file will be needed to the slide bar supports to achieve the desired 4.66mm spacing all along the slide bars.
Crossheads Note
An alternative to the crosshead assembly provided is the Markits Double Slide bar and Crosshead (M4CRHDSns). However, while this looks very nice it is not deep enough between the slide bars, which means that the locating holes in the cylinder heads must be adjusted very slightly inwards. The upper and lower slots of the cross heads must be slightly widened to suit the slide bars.
The Crossheads provided are built up in layers. There are two outer layers (one of them partly half etched to show the profile), two inner layers one of which is half etched and two inside layers which are shaped to allow the Connecting Rods to partially rotate. All of these should be used unless you are confident of great accuracy in which case the half etch layer may be left out. 7. Cross Heads
Remove the two sets of Cross Head parts (171-184) from the fret and align each set locating them in place with a steel pin or Cross Head Rear (171) something else suitable through the centre into several layers of balsa or other hardwood. If using hardwood such as Ramin then Cross Head Inner Layers B drill a hole as deep as possible to suit the steel pin. In preference use a higher melting point solder than normal and use lots of heat. This will allow the parts to be re-aligned should they move.
Solder these layers together. Do not pick this up too soon, it will have got very hot!
Trim and file to finish, the top and bottom edges should be filed down to less than the depth of the slide bars. Do a test fit to make sure these slide easily.
In the end of the cross heads drill a small hole 1.6 mm to accept Cross Head Inner Layers A the cross head rod which is 1/16” brass rod of length 25 mm. Cross Head Overlay (173 Solder this in place ensuring that the cross head is securely Cross Head Top Overlay (183)
Page 15 Class 8C Page 16 Class 8C clamped. Do a test fit to ensure it slides easily into the 8. Coupling Rods Coupling Rod Rear Bosses cylinder tubing.
Check the measurements for the sliding faces on the Coupling Rod Left Rear (98) crossheads - this should be 4.67 mm for the supplied Coupling Rod Left Front (97) version (equivalent to 1’ 2”). For the corresponding slide bars the distance between them is 4.8 mm. Ensure this is Coupling Rod the case, filing and trimming as needed. This will make a Left Rear nice close fit without being too tight - a little oil helps here. Overlay(100) File down the top and bottom carefully so that they do not Coupling Rod Centre Bosses hit the Slide Bar Supports (22,23) and can move freely along the length of the slide bars. Coupling Rod Left Front Overlay (99) Coupling Rods Note Coupling Rod Bosses
The coupling rods are a mirror pair - so take care that all the oil boxes end up at the top! The knuckle for the coupling rods for this engine is to the rear of the centre axle.
A range of extra parts are provided either full depth or half etched to be attached to the bosses on the coupling rods either to the front or the rear. These will allow you to choose how far to off-set the wheels from the coupling rods.
There is very little space behind the connecting rod in P4 so if 9. Connecting Rods using the Alan Gibson crank pins and locknuts then the leading hole in the Coupling Rods Left and Right Front (97, 107) should be opened up to 1.8 mm so that the locknut can fit into into it in Connecting Rod Left (117 reverse. In Extremis is it just possible to open out the hole in either top boss or the overlay to 2.5 mm so that the whole nut is countersunk. Connecting Rod End A better solution may be to use the crank pins designed by Tim Overlay (122) Venton (see Scalefour Society Forum). These are threaded and Connecting Rod End Overlay (121) the front one is countersunk into the coupling rods hole.
Drill 1.5 mm to 1.6 mm through all the other crank pin holes to Connecting Rod Left Overlay (118) suit your crank pin bearings. The front crank pin is rather shorter than on the other axles if the crank pin nut is reversed.
Drill out the coupling rods to suit your choice of crank pins. Remove Coupling Rod Left Front (97), Coupling Rod Left Rear (98), Coupling Rod Left Front Overlay (99), Coupling Rod Left Rear Overlay (100) from the fret. The rear coupling rods should overlap the front coupling rods on both sides - use a folded up piece of Rizla cigarette paper (or other suitable paper) with a little light oil in the half etched ends to stop solder affecting these parts.
Remove Coupling Rod Bosses (101-106) from the fret, select and solder in place to inside and outside of main coupling rods.
Use a 0.8 mm rivet to fix the front and rear parts together, (lightly hammer in place or solder according to preference), ensuring that the joint is loose enough so that there is free movement. A piece of 0.8 mm wire would do just as well if these have not been supplied.
Repeat for the right side coupling rods using parts (107-116).
Connecting Rods Note
Page 16 Class 8C Page 17 Class 8C
The Connecting Rods are a mirror pair. 10. Rear Buffer A (from rear) Remove parts Connecting Rod Left (117), Connecting Rod Left Rear Buffer Beam (5) Overlay (118), Connecting Rod End Overlay (121) (square), Connecting Rod End Overlay (122) (round) from the fret and solder together. Rear Buffer Beam The hole which fits over the centre axle crank pin should be Overlay (4) opened out to (1.5 mm to 1.6 mm) to suit your crank pin bearing. The small end of the Connecting Rod should fit inside the Crosshead Assembly and is secured with a 0.5 mm rivet (lightly hammer in place or soldered on the rear according to preference). A short piece of 0.45 mm brass wire will suit as well. Drwg. 216 Rear Buffers Leave the front slightly proud to represent the fixing bolt. Rear Buffer Beam Repeat for the other connecting rod. Draw Bar Plate (41)
Buffers - rear Rear Buffer Housing Plates (36,37) Note
There is no reason why the buffer layers should not be made part of the foot plate and soldered to the ends of the footplate using the rear and front foot plates and the valences as a guide, which 11. Rear Buffer B (from front) may make fitting body and chassis together a little easier. If this is done the tabs on the ends of the frames should be carefully filed flat since they will no longer have a purpose. Slots for frame tabs (P4 outer) The rear buffer has two layers. Drill holes 0.45 mm in Rear Buffer Beam (5), Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (6) and Rear Buffer Housing Plates (38,39). Drill large holes in Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (6) and Rear Buffer Housing Plates (38,39) to 2.0 mm which will locate the un-sprung rear buffers.
The Rear Buffer Beam (5) has two slots for the frames, the outer pair is for P4 and the inner pair is for EM.
Remove Rear Buffer Beam (5) from the fret and solder over the end of the frames ensuring it is the right way up, the two slots are nearer the bottom. Slots for frame tabs (EM inner)
Remove Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (4) from the fret and solder half etched Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (6) in place again ensuring it is the right way up. The holes and slot are nearer the top. 12. Front Buffer A Remove Rear Buffer Housing Plates (36,37) from the fret and solder into place. Ream out the central holes and fit the Cast or Frames - shown in turned Rear Buffers. P4 mode - curved inwards Remove Rear Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plate (41) from the fret and solder it in place to match the draw plate slot.
Fit Drwg. 216 Rear Buffers in place and solder.
Buffers - front Front Buffer Beam Note Draw Bar Plates The Buffer Mounts (32,33) are optional. When first built they (39,40) were not fitted but were added later. If fitting the Gibson Front Buffer Beam Overlay (4) recommended buffers then the overlay for the front buffer should be reamed out so that the the buffer will fit flush just inside the overlay. The four small holes in the corner may be used to locate Buffer Mounts (32,33) the buffer mounts and again optionally, the Gibson buffers may be drilled out in each corner to 0.3 mm so that the fixing bolts may be simulated. Front Buffer Beam (3)
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The front buffer has two layers. To simulate the bolts that hold Foot Plate Fixing the buffers to the buffer beam drill the locating holes in Front Bracket (38) Buffer Beam (3), Front Buffer Beam Overlay (4) and Buffer Mounts (34,35) to 0.3 mm. 13. Front Buffer B
Remove Front Buffer Beam (3), Front Buffer Beam Overlay (4), Buffer Support Left (24), Buffer Support Right (25) and Buffer Mounts (32,33) from the etch.
Solder the buffers to Buffer Mounts (32,33) then drill through 0.3 mm from the rear for the corner fixing bolts.
Remove Foot Plate Fixing Bracket (38) from the fret and fit between the frames, (this will match the front of the foot plate when the body is all but finished). An alternative is to screw through the chimney. Buffer Supports (25,26) Fix the Front Buffer Beam in place to the frames at the same time as the Buffer Supports noting that the buffer beam slot is closer to the top. Check the front buffer beam is square since for P4 the frames have a distinct bend at 4’ from the front buffer 14. Brake Cylinder Supports and if the bend if different at each side the buffer will not be central. P4 and EM modellers use the same front slot for the frames. Left frame only shown, Cab Base and Rear Buffer Ensure the Front Buffer Beam (3) is flat and then using 0.3 mm brass wire and a couple of clamps locate the buffers, Front Buffer Beam Overlay (4) and Buffer Mounts (34,35) and solder carefully into place. Trim off the 0.3 mm wire to represent the bolt heads on the buffers.
Remove Front Buffer Beam Draw Bar Plates (39,40) from the fret, clean up where needed and solder into place.
Remove Couplers (34,35) from the fret and solder into the front buffer beam. Brake Cylinder Supports (28,29)
Brake Cylinder Support Remove parts Brake Cylinder Supports (28,29) from the fret, drill the smaller hole to 0.45 mm (this takes the safety chain link to 15. Valve Gear Outer Rod the tender) and drill the larger hole to 1.0 mm for the actuating axle for the brakes.
Solder into place under Cab Base Support (3) and check they are Valve Rod Right Outer (187) square to this base.
Fit the cast/turned/printed Drwg. 218 Vacuum Cylinder. Outer Rod End Strips (189,190) Stephenson’s Valve Gear Note Outer Rod Spacer (193) The Stephenson’s Valve gear consists of mirror images of parts on the centre axle. They can be configured to work by locking them to the centre axle or may be left to rotate freely. 16. Valve Gear Inner Rod Make sure that the correct parts are on the outside or the eccentrics may become twisted. Also note that parts for the Valve Rod Right Inner (188) eccentric have a ‘tab’ on them and additional fixing holes to help in getting them soldered up. After soldering these and before fitting into the main motion these tabs are filed to the correct Inner Rod Spacer (199) shape. High melting point solder is recommended. Brass wire 0.3 mm is used to locate the parts accurately. Inner Rod End Strips (195,196) For parts 185-200 drill out all the locating holes to 0.3 mm.
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Valve Rods 17. Valve Gear Eccentric
Start with the valve gear for the right hand side. Main Eccentric (203,204)
Remove Valve Rod Right Outer (187) and Valve Rod Right Inner Eccentric Short Brackets (209,210) (188) from the fret. With a small piece of wet and dry paper ease out the large holes to 5.7 mm so that they revolve easily round Eccentric Bracket 205,206) the brass eccentric plates (Drwg. 215).
Remove Outer Rod End Strips (189,190) and Outer Rod Spacer (193) from the fret and using a 0.3 mm piece of brass wire locate these parts as shown and solder up. 18. Final Eccentric Shape
Remove Inner Rod End Strips (195,196) and Inner Rod Spacer (199) from the fret and using a 0.3 mm piece of brass wire locate these parts as shown and solder up.
Eccentric 19. Lifting Gear
Note
Since these parts are the ones that tend to get either lost in the carpet or are difficult to solder together a rear tag with an extra Rotation Arms (217-218) locating hole is provided for them. Rotation Arm End Spacers (221,222) For the eccentric itself (201,204) drill out the holes at each end to 0.6 mm. These will fit on to the Lifting Arms. Lifting Arms (213-214)
Remove the eccentric parts 201-212 from the fret, complete with their extensions and use 0.3 mm wire to locate them and solder together as shown in the diagram.
Clean up as much as possible and cut and file the rear of the 20. Valve Rod eccentric assembly to shape.
Lifting Arms 1.6 mm Brass Rod Valve Rod End (226) For Lifting Arms (213-216), Rotation Arms (217-220), Rotation Arm End Spacers (221,224) drill out the smaller holes to 0.5 mm and the larger holes in the bottom end of Lifting Arms (213-216) to 0.7 mm. This is the end that is locked through the centre of the eccentric. 21. Overview of eccentric and lifting gear Steam Chest Rods
Remove Valve Rod Ends (226,227) from the fret and roll round a piece of 1.6 mm brass rod on which the ends have been filed flat over a length of 2 mm, drill through the locating holes and fix in place by soldering. The flat should be such that the width of the finished sub-assembly is no greater than 1.6 mm.
At this stage with a little judicious fettling it should be possible (but only just) to slide this up and down the eccentric. It may be easier to leave this in the fully up or fully down position since they may never move when the engine is running.
Fit short lengths of 2.4 mm brass tubing (ideally this should be 4 mm long) into Valve Guide Support Spacer (19 or 19EM) and using some 1.6 mm brass rod, align it through the Cylinder Spacers (7,8) ensuring that the rod slides very easily.
Brass Plates
In Drwg. 215 Eccentric there are four plates which fit either side of Valve Rod Outers (185,187) and Valve Rod Inners (186,188). There is Eccentric Template (230) on the fret which can be used
Page 19 Class 8C Page 20 Class 8C to mark the holes to be drilled. Check that the brass plates will sit in the hole in the template, using a bit of wet & dry to ease as 22. Assembly of brass plates needed. Remove this from the fret and fold over with the half etch on the outside and solder up. Right Inner
Lay the brass plates in the template ensuring the centre mark is Eccentric absolutely central and lightly mark the small holes by drilling with a 0.45 mm drill. Brass Eccentric Plates At this stage it should be possible to do a trial fit with a 3 mm Drwg. 216 drill, using a couple of lengths of 0.45 mm wire to fix in place. Check the plates can rotate within Valve Rod Outers and Valve Right Outer Rod Inners without any friction.
There are two ways to fix these permanently, both of which have 23. Reversing Axle A proved satisfactory under test. Short lengths of 0.45 mm wire can Balance Arm (225) be soldered either side of the plates or the second plate can be Counterweight drilled out to 0.8 mm and the front counter sunk for a 16 BA bolt. Weight Drwg. The first plate is then drilled to 0.6 mm and tapped to 16 BA and 211 a couple of 16 BA counter sunk screws fitted and trimmed off. Reversing Arm 1.6mm tube cut Once fixed and solid the centre hole should be carefully reamed Actuators - see as spacers on out to 1/8” to make an interference fit over the axle. brass etches 8mm rod
The connectors at the eccentric end of the rod may be trimmed Rotation Arms (217-220) down to represent a curved connection.
Now do it all again for the left side mechanism. Lifting Arms (213,214) Reversing Axle and Balance Weight The Counterweight Weight Drwg. 211 will need a 1.2 mm hole drilled in the side halfway along into which can be soldered 24. Reversing Axle B Balance Arm (225).
Note
For completeness of the reversing axle description the Reversing Arm Chassis End (70), Reversing Arm Front Actuator (73) and Reversing Arm Rear Actuators (72,73) are mentioned here. These are in Brass and are on Sheet 4. Reversing Arm Front Actuator (73) should be fitted just inside the right frame over the 0.8 mm axle.
Fold Reversing Arm Front Actuator (72) to create a bend while leaving Reversing Arm Front Actuator (73) is flat. The Reversing Arm Chassis End (70) fits inside the open end.
The measurements shown in the diagram of the axle are exact and it may be necessary to slightly undercut the spacers in order to fit the eccentric lifting assemblies and the Balance Arm (274). 25. Brake Shoe Assembly
Brakes Brake Mount (55) Brake Shoe Base (81) Note
All the holes in the brake parts 55-97 are 0.45 mm - make sure these are clear. A couple of pieces of balsa wood will aid assembly Brake Shoe Top Brake Mount by forcing brass locating wires through the parts and into the Layer (87) Top Layer (75) balsa.
Brake Shoes
Solder Brake Shoe Bases (81-86) to Brake Shoe Top Layer (87-92) using 0.45 mm brass wire to locate them with respect to each other.
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Make up the brake shoes from Brake Mounts (69-74) and Brake 26. Brake Assembly Pull Rod Hinge - 1.6 mm Mounts Top Layer (75-80) sitting these over the Brake Shoe tube Bases and Brake Shoe Top Layers using the 0.45 mm brass wire to help locate them. These are layered as shown in the diagram. Brake Pull Centre Trim the 0.45 mm wire to represent the fixing bolts. Brackets (64,65) Brake Pull Rear Main Brake Assembly Brackets (62,63) Remove Brake Pull (61) and the supporting brackets (62-67) from the fret. Assemble as shown using 0.45 mm brass wire to locate the parts making sure the right bits point to the front. Brake Pull (61) Trim the locating wires to represent the fixing bolts. Brake Pull Front Bracket (66,67) The rear split hinge is simply a piece of 1.6 mm brass tube soldered to the rear of the Brake Pull (61) and its Brake Pull Rear Brackets (62,63). Once fitted this can be cut centrally to allow Rear Brake Pulls (95, 96) to be fitted. 27. Vacuum Cylinder Connection Ensure the brake shoe assemblies will fit over the ends of the Brake Pull (61) - gently filing the rectangular ends as needed. Vacuum Cylinder Link (68) Note that the set next to the Valve Guide Spacer may need trimming with a file so that it lies tight against the Slide Rail Spacer at the correct angle. Rear Brake Pull (95,96) Rear Brake Assembly
Remove Brake Cylinder Links (93, 94) from the fret, bend to Brake Cylinder Link (93,94) shape so that Rear Brake Pulls (95, 96) will fit between them.
Remove Rear Brake Pulls (95, 96) from the fret and solder together. Pin to Brake Cylinder Links (93, 94) using a short piece of 0.45 mm brass wire. Connect Vacuum Cylinder Link (68) to fit between the two upper arms.
Test Fitting 28. Brake Assembly Overview Using a short piece of 1.0 mm brass wire locate the rear brake assembly between the Brake Cylinder Supports (28,29) under the frames so that the Vacuum Cylinder Link (68) fits into the Vacuum Cylinder.
Clip the main brake assembly into place, pushing the bottom of the front brakes right up against the Valve Guide Support Spacer (20). Solder the brake shoes to Brake Pull (61).
It should now be possible to connect the front and rear brake assemblies through the split hinge on the rear of the main brake assembly using a piece of 0.8 mm brass wire.
By removing this piece of wire and unclipping the main brake assembly it should be a simple matter to drop out the wheels when needed.
Put all these to one side until final assembly and painting. These parts are easily damaged.
Drag Link Note
The drag link is optional, this is just how it is done on the prototype. The chequered plate between the tender and locomotive may be simply hooked on the front of the tender using a couple of pieces of wire.
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Remove Drag Links (43-45) from the fret and solder together. A 5 29. Bogie Main Frame mm pin through the Cab Base Support (9) front hole will hold it in place. This should be made removable, there is room under the cab floor.
The tender end of the drag links should be rounded off, trimmed Bogie Frame (141) to a suitable length and a thread cut over the last 10 mm to match the fixing position in the tender. With a weak spring fitted this will give a convincing movement when the locomotive starts with a heavy load.
Guard Irons Remove Guard Iron Left (30) and Guard Iron Right (31) from the fret, bend to shape and solder in place on the insides of the frames ensuring the front face is vertical and the inset on the front edge fits just under the bottom of the front buffer beam.
Front Bogie Bogie Side Overlays (142,143) Note 30. Bogie Stretcher The Adams Bogie rotates around a central pin and can move side to side under spring control. This is combined with the compensating beams fitted on either side of the frame on top of the axle boxes.
The Adams Bogie was used in many locomotive classes including Bogie stretcher (148) the LNER G5 of which a new one is being built. See picture. While this is not identical to the one in the kit there are many similarities.
Bogie Frame
Push through the rivets on the reverse of the Bogie Frame (141) and drill out the four end holes to 0.9 mm.
Solder the Bogie Side Overlays (142,143) in place using a piece of 0.7 mm brass wire to locate them accurately.
Remove Bogie Frame (141) and Bogie Side Overlays (142,143) from the fret and fold as shown. Note that the outer bends are folded back with the half etch on the outside since the fold is a full 180 degrees. Ensure this is square before soldering.
Use a piece of 0.9 mm wire to act as a fixing strap across the 31. Bogie Equaliser Bars front and rear of the bogie. Leave about 1 mm proud to represent the end nuts. Equalising Bars (144-147) Drill out the 12 holes in Bogie Stretcher (148) to 0.3 mm. These are a set of alternative fittings for the wire that will spring the wheels.
Remove Bogie stretcher (148) from the fret, bend to shape and solder in place underneath Bogie Frame (141) so that the Bogie Spring Hangers (167-170) elongated hole is properly aligned, trying not to block the spring holes with solder.
Equalising Bars
Note
The pairs of equalising bars fit outside the springs to give an impression of real depth although for EM modellers it is better to make these much thinner and only use one spring layer.
Page 22 Class 8C Page 23 Class 8C
The Equalising Bars (144-147), Spring Face Plate (149,150) and Spring Backing Plates (151-156) have locating holes to help assemble them. Drill these out to 0.3 mm. 32. Bogie Springs And Hangers
Remove Equalising Bars (144-147), Spring Face Plate (149,150) and Spring Backing Plates (151-156) from the fret, fold the Spring Backing Plates (151-156) Equalising Bars as shown and solder the tips, which sit on top of the axle boxes, together.
Solder Spring Face Plate (149) and Spring Backing Plates (1151- 154) together for one side and then repeat for the other side. Spring Face Plate (149,150)
Solder the equalising bars and springs to the side/top of the main bogie with the springs between the pairs of equalising bars and the half etched leaf spring showing. Remove Bogie Spring 33. Bogie Completed Hangers (167-170) from the fret if required and use a piece of 0.45 mm wire to locate.
Drill out the bottom holes in Bogie Frame (141), the holes in Bogie Side Overlays (142,,143) and the holes in the Bogie Pivots (157-164) to 0.7 mm.
Remove Bogie Pivots (157-164) from the fret and solder up the in two sets, making sure the central hole is cleared to 0.7 mm, file them square and then solder in place over the Bogie Side Overlays (142,143). Trim and file the 0.7 mm brass wire proud of the surface then remove the Hex Bolt Heads (165,166) from the fret and solder these in place.
And finally for the Bogie 34. Bogie Completed Underneath Add side play steel spring control to front fixing strap so that it fits around the Drwg. 225 Bogie Pivot which sits in Bogie Mount (48).
Glue Qty 4 Drwg. 225 Bogie Axle Box in place but check they are not over the B-B for your gauge.
Add wheels and check the B-B. If needed the front of the axle boxes may be carefully reduced.
Add Ernie Ball Gauge 12 steel wire for wheel springs - these should fit lightly over the axles and through one of the holes in Bogie Stretcher (148) depending on the downwards force required.
Add the turned Bogie Pivot (Drwg. 219) to the underside of Bogie Mount (48) on the chassis so that the long part will hang 35. Axle Box Frame through the bogie when it is fitted. Add thin washers when Axle Box Spring Mount (106-111) testing to increase downwards force if needed.
Fitting wheels 0.8 Note mm x This is where a small block of wood will come in handy since soldering the axle boxes and their spring covers on top of it will cause them to stick slightly to the wood and thus make it easier to add the brass tubing for the spring wire.
Solder brass parts Axle Box Spring Mount (106-111) over Drwg. 226 Horn Blocks. These parts are on Sheet 4. EM Modellers may use the EM Blanking Plates on Sheet 3 if springing is not needed. Drwg. 226 Markits Horn Block Cut some short lengths of the 0.8 mm x 0.4 mm tube simply by rolling a sharp knife over it, it will cut very easily and solder these
Page 23 Class 8C Page 24 Class 8C to the tabs - there is a small notch on the tab to indicate the ideal height. Ensure the hole is free by test drilling with a 0.3 mm drill.
Clean up and ensure that they are a good fit and will slide easily, but not loosely, in the chassis. The brass tubes should be between the Axle Box Spring Mounts (106-111) and the chassis frames. If you are fitting the internal valve gear then fitting the first and second wheel assembly to the chassis may be fiddly. It will help to file off a small triangle for the front and centre axles on the frames, but no more than 1 mm on a side.
The spring wire supplied is 12 gauge steel guitar string from Ernie Ball. This will fit in the handrail knobs on the insides of the frames.
Add wheel weights, fitting them opposite to the crank pin will usually be correct ( but see photographs for details). The centre wheel weights are the larger pair. Use Araldite sparingly for best results.
Note that Gibson wheels will need the rear boss filed off carefully so that they fit as close to the frames as in the prototype.
Driving Axles side play Front wheel - as little as possible since there is only a very small space between the coupling rod and the back of the connecting rod. Use a full width spacer. For the centre Wheel use half width spacers
Fit crank pins to wheels and fit wheels to axles, quarter until satisfied
Fit coupling rods, rear pair only to start and check there is no binding. Then add the front axle to the combination and check again. Try this with a motor fitted.
Add connecting rods, check they are a free fit in the slide bars before fitting to the centre axle.
Fit reversing axle in place with Drwg. 211 Counter Weight.
Valve Gear (if fitted) Slide the Stephenson’s Valve Gear on to the centre axle and either fix in place with something like ‘Loctite’ or use a brass pin through the axle and solder the brass plate inners to these. Alternatively allow the valve gear to revolve freely by reaming out above the 1/8 axle diameter.
The valve gear must be free to rotate without any binding before any attempt at fitting coupling rods is made. If there is a point where binding is felt, it is usually at the eccentric.
Fit the gear box over the rear axle.
Slide the axle boxes into position one by one and check there is a good sliding fit.
Plan to secure the Stephenson’s valve gear around the front axle but it is better to leave the bottom connection as a removable one using 16 BA C/H nuts and bolts.
Fitting furniture for the chassis Fit front buffers and springs.
Add 0.9 mm brass wire as a sanding pipes to both side - front wheel only, the rear wheels on this locomotive are done from the tender.
Araldite in place Drwg. 212 Cylinder Front - note that Cylinder Cover (97,98) are supplied with extras and are on the N/S etch and on the brass etch. These should be soldered in place at the same time to ensure a good fit. Drwg. 212 Cylinder Fronts are drilled to 2.4 mm, a short piece of tube should be fitted with 1.6 mm rod inside to represent the tail rods (long or short).
Centre Axle Spring Drwg. 209 if fitted should be super-glued to the bottom of the centre axle box or the EM Blanking Plate if fitted.
Motor, DCC Chip and pickups Fit motor and test run the mechanism until satisfied everything runs freely. For modellers of the DCC persuasion there are many to choose from. You may wish to use one of the additional functions to drive a RED LED in the firebox.
Fit as many pickups as possible and wire up. There is plenty of space under the motor for a small piece of PCB.
Page 24 Class 8C Page 25 Class 8C Body Work 36. Cab Front Notes Window Overlays (64-67) Cab Front (63) Parts are included for P4 and EM for both these variants. Take care not to get the P4 and EM parts confused.
The metal used is 0.3 mm brass. This is delicate, especially so with these style of locomotives where the foot plates are quite narrow. Take care when drilling by using a pin chuck, not a power drill. A number of parts are best assembled while the larger part is still attached to the fret.
Cab Fronts With a very sharp blade and a slicing motion remove the Window Overlays (64-67) from the fret. There are double the quantity needed. Clean these up using a very fine file while holding the very fragile part in a pair of flat nosed pliers. 0.45 mm for hand rail Apply some solder paste around the insets on Cab Front (63) and solder them into place.
Remove Cab Front (63) from the fret.
Cab Sides Note 37. Cab Side (Left) On the inside of the cab sides there is a half etch mark which is at the centre of the brass number plate if fitted. Cab Side Overlay (56)
Drill through the half etch number plate mark 0.45 mm on Cab Sides (55,57) if you intend to fit a pair of the GCR brass numbers. Drill the cab side rail holes to 0.45 mm, note that the hand rail was set forwards when side screens were fitted, so choose the right pair.
Remove Cab Side Overlay (56) and Cab Side Splasher Overlay (59) from the fret and using solder paste, solder into the half etched sections of the Cab Side (55). These will represent the brass beading on the splasher and cab side.
Remove Cab Side Left (55) from the fret and gently file round Edging Strip (61) the cab opening to remove spurious bits of metal .
Remove Edging Strip (61) from the fret and solder around the cab opening. Do this a very small part at a time and ensure Cab Side Splasher Overlay (59) that the holes at each end line up vertically for the cab side hand rail. Cab Side Left (55) Repeat for Cab Side Right (57).
Fit cast number plates if required using the guide hole drilled earlier.
Footplate Remove Footplate Assembly Aid (136) from the fret, drill out the holes to 0.45 mm, fold up at a right angle and solder firmly. This piece is used to separate the foot plates at the correct distance using locating holes towards the front of the footplate. On the foot plates these holes later become the Half etch from location for oil boxes and sand box fillers. The semi-circular inside to centre 0.45 mm recess in Footplate Assembly Aid (136) will help locate the the brass number boiler later on and should be towards the rear. plate 38. Cab Side (Left) Inside View
Page 25 Class 8C Page 26 Class 8C
Select the correct foot 39. Footplate and Cab plate pair, Foot Plate Left (9) and Footplate Right (10) or if modelling in EM Foot plate Left (9EM) and Footplate Right (10EM). Footplate Assembly Aid (136) Drill the holes to match Footplate Assembly Aid (136) to 0.45 mm and the foot plate grab rail holes to 0.45 mm 0.3 mm. Remove Foot Plate Left (9) and Footplate Right (10) from the fret. 0.3 mm Hand Rail Using a couple of pieces of balsa as a base lightly solder Footplate Assembly Aid (136), Foot plate Left Foot plates (9,10) (9) and Footplate Right (10) together. The rear end Balsa Base of the footplate should overhang the balsa by about 20 mm. It is worth 40. Footplate and Cab (2) while checking this assembly is square. The width should be 33.0 mm +0 mm - Cab Front (63) Cab Assembly Aids (137,138) 0.2mm. Use brass pins into the balsa to hold this in place. Subsequent work will lock this in place and the measurement is just a guide.
Fitting Cab Sides Remove Cab Assembly Aids (137,138) from the fret, fold at a right angle and solder up.
Insert Cab Sides Left (55) and Cab Side Right (57) into the footplate using the front and centre slots only. The rear tab should overhang the balsa. Use Cab Assembly Aids (137,138) as shown to assist in getting these vertical.
Firebox Note Cab Sides (55,57) The front of the fire box will need filing to shape, there is a template supplied but it is simple to do this by eye. There are two ways to prepare for this - read on. 41. Fire Box Bracing Either way the fire box front curve is bulked up will cause the Fire Box Braces (51-54) assembly to get rather warm. Use clips to hold the parts firmly and insulate when holding the parts.
The simple way to prepare the front of the fire box for filing is to drop some solder in the corners, covering the area with flux and then slowly add more solder with a very hot iron.
A better way may be to use Fire Box Braces (51-54) to build up a solid foundation.
Filing this area will allow the correct fire box curve at the front. Use Belpaire Filing Aid (141) to guide the filing, better to have too little than too much removed.
Remove Fire Box (44) from the fret and carefully remove all tags but even more carefully leaving the Tabs that will locate Fire Box Support Aid (139)
Page 26 Class 8C Page 27 Class 8C this into the front of the cab. If you plan to use the AG Ramsbottom Safety Valves, there is a half etch mark on the 42. Fire Box Arrangement inside that should be drilled out to suit. Fire Box (44) Remove Fire Box Support Aids (139,140) from the fret. Drill out the four holes in each to 0.45 mm and drill out the corresponding holes in the side parts of the fire box. Roll the main fire box to shape using a piece of 4 mm rod (or a drill) with the half etch on the inside and bend the side and top parts inwards, locate it with the Fire Box Support (139) and lightly solder. This may be removed later once the assembly of the fire box is finished.
If you wish to bulk up the inside of the fire box then remove Fire Box Braces (51-54) from the fret and insert into the inside Inspection of the fire box using the same 0.45 mm wires to locate Covers (46-50) securely and accurately - then solder up using lots of heat.
Now curve the splasher part of the cab front that fits over the wheels to shape using the fire box as a guide, it is better that 43. Fire Box Arrangement Inside Cab this is slightly over-curved since it will be easier to solder in place. Note also that the curve starts just below the Fire Box Cab (45) rectangular hole for the reversing lever. The half etch at the bottom should just fit onto the footplate.
Locate the fire box into the front of the cab using the six slots provided - take care that the fire box sits flush since it will be difficult to adjust later.
Repeat this with the part of the fire box that fits inside the cab. Remove Fire Box Cab (45) and the second Fire Box Support (Aid 140). There is only one tab which locates centrally at the top.
Once the fire box is secure and square, solder can be run round the various joints. Fire Box Support Aid (140)
If you want to fit the Inspection Covers (46-50) (not always fitted - see photographs) to the curved part of the fire box Washout Plugs (8) then remove Inspection Covers (46-50) from the fret, curve to shape and solder in place. These are fitted along the centre of the curved part of the boiler and at 3 mm, 13 mm and 23 mm from the front of the cab on the left and 8 mm and 20 mm from the front of the cab on the right side. These have a 44. Splashers nominal spacing of 2’ 6”. Splasher Tops (26-29) Add Washout Plugs (8) to both sides of the fire box.
Fitting Cab Front & Sides Position the cab front BETWEEN the cab sides. The half etch end on the end of the splasher will lie flat on the footplate. Very lightly solder the top corners first to get the position correct and then slowly complete the soldering around the curve.
Front and Centre Splashers Remove Splasher Sides (20-23) from the fret and solder onto the footplate ensuring that the half etch representing the Splasher Sides (20-23) brass trim is on the outside.
Remove Splasher Tops (26-29) from the fret, roll to shape so that the half etch parts are on the inside of the curve, bending over the half etch ends so they will lie flat on the footplate and
Page 27 Class 8C Page 28 Class 8C solder into place. Note that the splasher tops fit level with the 45. Rear Footplate top of the Splasher Sides and NOT on top of them!
Note that the rear pair of the splashers should be trimmed so that they fit between the Splasher Side and the Fire Box side Frames since they will not fit under the fire box side.
Rear Foot Plate Remove Footplate Rear (11) from the fret and fold up the centre section, the tabs of which will act to locate the Cab Floor (89).
Ease the slot out that will fit over the chassis frames with a little wet & dry. Footplate Rear (11) can now be slid onto the chassis over the ends of the frames. Solder a couple of 12 BA nuts in place on the top so that the chassis and body can be screwed together later. Check the holes are in line and are clear. Foot Plate Rear (11) Roll the half etched section into a curve to form the front end 12 BA Nuts on top of the footplate, noting that the half etched parts will be on the underside, trim very slightly if needed. The end should sit under the end of the foot plate. 46. Rear Footplate and Cab Floor
Cab Floor Cab Cupboard Remove Cab Floor (89) from the etch and fold up the three Locating ends so that they will lift the cab floor from the rear footplate. Tabs Bend upwards, by about 45 degrees, the two side pieces, these will curve so that they become part of the splasher inside the cab. The slots in these curved parts will locate on the tabs of the part of the fire box inside the cab.
Cab Cupboards Solder a couple of Door Hinges (77-80) on each of the Cab Cupboards (75,76) over the holes and add a 0.3mm piece of wire to represent the threaded part of the hinge.
Drill through the door knob holes 0.3 mm. Solder in a short piece of 0.3 mm brass wire to represent the door knob.
Remove Cab Cupboards (75,76) from the fret and fold to shape and check that they locate into the slots in Cab Floor (89). Very lightly solder in position. Rear Footplate (11) locating tabs fit here
Remove Footboards (81,82) and Shelves (83,84) from the fret and fold with the half etch on the inside (this is to give the 47. Cupboards impression of a curved edge to the wooden boards). Solder or Position of Shelf Left (83) glue in place on the bottom part of the cupboards and the top part of the cupboards respectively. Ensure there is a small overlap at the rear. The reversing gear will sit on top of the Hinges (77,78) right shelf.
Check that the cupboards will lock in place using the two Position of Foot bottom tabs but don’t solder up yet. The outside of the Board Left (81) cupboards sits against the cab sides, so check the assemblies fit comfortably. The cupboards should be easily removable for painting if needed.
Cupboard Left (75)
Door Knob 0.3 mm brass
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48. Cab Arrangement 1 49. Cab Arrangement 2 50. Cab Arrangement 3
51. Roof
Cab Roof Roof Blanking Plate (126) - if required Note ‘L’ Shape Brace The cab roof has ‘T’ and ‘L’ sections which are from milled brass. These can be bent carefully to shape but it is easier to anneal these first and then bend them.
Remove Roof (68) from the fret and curve to shape.
The hole in the roof should be to the front and is for the whistle. The whistle was later moved to the front of the cab when the LNER reclassified the locomotives. In this case remove Roof Blanking Plate (126) from the fret, push out the rivets and solder on top of the roof. Roof (68) Anneal the shaped brass ‘L’ and ‘T’ sections using the domestic ‘T’ Shape Brace gas cooker jets or similar when the management is attending to other matters.
Curve the ‘L’ shaped brass and solder to the front and rear of the roof. There is a short piece of ‘L’ that fits between the front and rear sections.
Curve the ‘T’ shaped brass and solder to the centre of the roof or centre it at 11.5 mm from the front to be accurate. 52. Foot Plate Support Check the roof fitting but do not solder in place until the cab is fully painted. Use the Cab Assembly Aids (137,138) to assist Foot Plate Support Top (30) alignment.
Footplate Supports Remove Footplate Supports (30-33) and Footplate Supports Tops (34-37) from the fret. Solder together the pairs. For the front pair it is useful to file down the outside by 0.3 mm (the width of the brass sheet) so that the supporting plates for the centre steps may be fitted between them and the valence.
Solder these under the foot plates to locate centrally on the two stubs of the foot plate.
Centre Steps Note
Alternative chequer steps are provided for the centre steps Foot Plate Support Bracket (34)
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Remove Centre Step Plate Left (90), Centre Step Left Upper 53. Centre Step (91) and Centre Step Left Lower (92) from the fret. Bend Centre Step Plate Left to shape as shown, there is a distinct kink a few inches below the valence to move the steps away from the loading gauge but in reality the displacement is only the thickness of 0.6 mm. Centre Plate Left (90) Fold Centre Step Left Upper (91) to shape noting the the rear part that attaches to the main plate folds downwards. Solder into place. 2 deg. kink
Fold Centre Step Left Lower (92) into shape and solder into place. Centre Plate Left Upper (91) This will now fit between the foot plate supports and the valence - but it may be better to do this later. Centre Plate Lower Left (92) Repeat for the centre steps on the right side.
These fit behind the valence but final fitting should be done later since handling errors can easily bend these out of shape.
Rear Steps Note 54. Rear Step 1 Rear Steps Stabiliser (99) Alternative chequer steps are provided for the rear steps
Remove Rear Step Plate Left (96), Rear Step Left Upper (97) and Rear Step Left Lower (98) from the fret. Bend Rear Step Plate Left (96) to shape as shown, there is a distinct kink a few inches below the valence to move the steps away from the loading gauge, noting the displacement is only 0.6 mm.
Fold Rear Step Left Upper (97) into shape and solder into place.
Fold Rear Step Left Lower (98) into shape and solder into Rear Step Plate Left (96) place.
Repeat for the rear steps on the right side.
Leave the Rear Steps Stabilisers (99,103) until final fitting of Rear Step Left Lower (98) the steps to the body - just in case! Rear Step Left Upper (97)
The steps will later fit behind the valence .
Valences Note
If you have chosen to fit the buffer assemblies (front and rear) 55. Rear Step 2 to the foot plate, now is the time to solder them in place.
Tabs from the splashers may interfere with fitting the valences so ensure they are filed flat against the underside of the foot plates.
Remove Valences Left & Right (18,19) from the fret and very carefully file off any remaining tags. There is a reverse curve in the valence under the place where the foot plate widens so curve the valences to suit then solder into place against the foot plate support brackets (34-37) with the steps in position temporarily).
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Use Valence Spacing Aids (132-135) to get the position as accurate as possible. Two of these are slightly longer and are used in front of the valence bend but not before the frame bend begins - i.e. over the cylinders.
You Are Here Just as a summary, the picture shows the parts made so far. Its time to start making this thing look like a steam engine.
57. You are here 2 56. You are here 1
58. You are here 3
The cab base should slide over the end of the chassis frames, ensuring that ALL of the slot in the cab base is taken up. Place the cab body and foot plates on top of this so that the rear tab on the cab sides locates in the cab base as well as the hand rails, it may be necessary to ease the front of the foot plates over the rivets in the frame. 59. Smoke Box Frame When satisfied this is square solder up.
Place the cab cupboards and solder both to the cab floor and the cab side. Very little solder is needed here, they should be a snug fit. The foot plate overlaps the rear buffer by about 0.5 mm which is the depth of the rivets!
Boiler Note 8BA Nut to lock smoke box to The boiler will slide into the smoke box by about 5 mm. frame if needed
Remove Boiler (1) from the fret and roll to shape with the locating marks on the outside. The longitudinal ends should Smoke Box Frame (4) meet exactly.
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Remove Boiler Front (2) and Boiler Rear (3) from the fret and solder into place. Check these are a good fit inside the boiler. After removing Fire Box Support Aid (139) from the front of 60. Smoke Box the fire box check that it is a good fit. Make sure you are finished with filing the Belpaire curve.
Fit Hand Rail Knobs (Qty 4 2 mm, two each side) once you are satisfied with the fit. If you do it now you can solder from inside the boiler and get a better joint. Top Hand Rail Knob
At the same time fit a 2 mm Hand Rail Knob either side of the fire box.
Smoke Box Remove Smoke Box frame (4) from the fret and fold to shape. Smoke Box (5) Remove Smoke Box (5) from the fret and roll to shape ensuring that it is a tight fit over the end of the boiler. There is an access hole at the bottom to allow an 8 BA bolt to be passed through the chimney so that it screws into Smoke Box 61. Smoke Box Wrapper Base (11). This an alternative way of fixing the body to the chassis.
There is a hole (used later for the snifter) on the Boiler (1) and Smoke Box (5) to help get the alignment correct. The main (visible) boiler should be 60 mm long with about 5 mm inside the smoke box assembly. Fixing Pins
The circular part of the Smoke Box Frame sits inside Smoke Box and there are two notches to assist in the location. Before soldering the Smoke Box (5) to the Smoke Box frame (4), ensure that the two sit parallel. If the boiler and/or the Smoke Box have not been rolled exactly circular then it may be necessary to file away the rear of the Smoke Box Frame until they do sit parallel. It is difficult, even with roller bars, to ensure circularity where the boiler and Smoke Box joins are Smoke Box Wrapper (6) made.
Smoke Box Wrapper Slots for Footplate Front (12) Note
There are two smoke box wrappers provided, the one with 62. Footplate Front rivets is for the superheated version. Both are marked with ‘front’ and ‘rear’ as an aid to fitting correctly. Small curve Smoke Box Wrapper (7) is set back a little from the front edge, Handles a very small curve should be made in the front of the main smoke box assembly.
Remove Smoke Box Wrapper (6) or Smoke Box Wrapper (7) from the fret and carefully file off the remains of the tags. Using the hole for the upper lamp bracket, the hole for the Hinges (14,15) Hand Rail Knobs and the hole for the chimney locate the Smoke Box Wrapper around the Smoke Box (5) and, ensuring it is a tight fit, beginning at the top, solder into place.
File the bottom part of the wrapper flat, this is slightly overlong by design, this will sit directly on the Smoke Box Base (11) which is part of the chassis.
File the front of the Smoke Box flat. Fit the Qty 2 1.6 mm Hand Lamp Brackets 16-18) Rail Knobs, on either side of the smoke box.
Vacuum Pipe Location Foot Plate Front (12 )
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The ash ejectors were always fitted on the right hand side. If you have used fitting pins to locate the wrapper, when you remove the one from the snifter location, for the saturated locomotive this will need a dab of solder to fill it in.
Smoke Box Step Drill the hole in Smoke Box Step (8) and the hole in the front of the Smoke Box Frame (4) which is on the lower right side to 0.3 mm. Remove Smoke Box Step (8) from the fret and use a short length of 0.3 mm brass wire to locate the step in position. Solder into place and clean up.
Smoke Box Front Hand Rail Knob Ensure that the hand rail knob will fit into the hole at the top of the smoke box. Do not solder in place yet until the hand rail has been fitted, it will be impossible to get a good fit on the hand rail unless this is left right until the end.
Front Foot Plate In Footplate Front (12), drill three holes to 0.3 mm for the lamp brackets , drill one hole 0.8mm for the vacuum pipe and two to 0.3 mm for the knobs on the curved part next to the smoke box. The original Alan Gibson used to prefer ‘staples’ for this, they were always more robust.
Solder a couple of 12 BA nuts to the underside locating over the half etch circles.
Remove Footplate Front (12) from the fret. Bend the Foot Plate Front (12) to the correct curve so that the half etched lines will be on the under side.
Insert the tabs on Front Foot Plate (12) into the two slots on the front of the smoke box.
Add Footplate Hinges (14,15) at the joint line and add a short piece of 0.3 mm brass wire to represent the hinge.
Insert a couple of short lengths of 0.3 mm wire near the top to represent the knobs used to open the ‘piano’.
Boiler and Smoke Box Ensure that the rear end of the boiler is a good fit and the front end of the smoke box will sit between the frames.
Solder the boiler rear to the fire box keeping the two location marks aligned exactly. Once satisfied that it is never going to be moved solder them firmly together from underneath.
Hand Rail Bend a length of 0.45 mm brass wire to suit the curve at the front of the smoke box, thread on the Hand Rail Knob for the smoke box and push the two ends through the hand rail knobs on the smoke box and boiler sides and into the holes just under the cab front windows. Solder into place inside the cab then solder the hand rail on the front of the smoke box into place if needed, use a dab of glue in preference.
Lamp Brackets Note
The supplied brackets have an etched bend which is vulnerable to mishandling. An alternative is to use a short length of 1 mm wide brass and make a sharp fold in it. Staples have been recommended elsewhere as another customer choice.
Drill out the locating holes in Lamp Brackets (15-17). Remove Lamp Brackets (15-17) from the fret, bend to shape and fit to foot plate using 0.33 mm brass wire to locate them.
Trim any excess wire and file down.
Vacuum Pipe Locate the Markits Vacuum Pipe. Drill out the corresponding hole in the front foot plate and solder into place. Ensure it is vertical.
Hand Rails (Cab Side) Fit a short length of 0.45 mm brass wire into the two holes on the cab sides. This should be about 0.9 mm from the cab side. When the side brackets were fitted, the handrail moved forwards.
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Foot Plate Grab Handles If the centre steps are fitted then there should be a grab handle on the footplate. Clear the holes in the foot plates between the leading and centre splashers to 0.45 mm and fit a short length of 0.45 mm brass wire setting it to 0.9 mm above the foot plate.
Reversing Arm Note
The reversing arm consists of several very fine pieces which are connected using 0.3 mm brass wire through holes in the etch. This should be fitted to the body just before the painting stage to ensure it is not damaged. There are two sets of parts on the etch just in case.
Drill out holes in Reversing Arm parts (69-74) then remove them from the fret, file off any tags and connect as shown in the diagram opposite.
The actuator arms slide behind the front splasher and in theory should connect to the mechanism on the chassis. This is impractical for modellers so once the position is final it is probably easier to solder Reversing Arm Chassis End (63) to the rear of the front right splasher.
63. Reversing Arm Assembly
Reversing Arm Cab Arm (71)
Reversing Arm Cab End (69)
Reversing Arm Rear Actuator (72)
Reversing Arm Front Actuator (73,74) Fit to reversing axle
Scrap 2 mm x 2 mm x 2 mm drill 0.45 mm
Reversing Arm Chassis End (70)
Top Lamp Bracket Note
The original position for the top lamp bracket was on top of the smoke box. To suit LNER loading gauge restrictions this was moved variously to the hand rail by the smoke box door or the front of the smoke box door itself.
Lamp Bracket Top (118) should provide these later options, otherwise use the standard spares from Lamp Bracket Footplate (15- 17).
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Foot Plate Connection Foot Plate Connection (124) is supposed to represent the chequered plate which stops the engine crew falling down the gap between the locomotive and tender. As such, it should be fixed to one or the other and free to lift about a hinge, which may be fitted either to the tender or the locomotive footplate..
The tradition way for modellers to fit this is to attach a couple of small hooks to Foot Plate Connection (124) and a couple of loops to either the tender or locomotive according to preference.
Fitting Furniture for the Body Note
For preference solid brass or white metal parts should be araldited in place. If you solder up a brass dome and get it slightly wrong a very large amount of heat will be required to adjust it!
Chimney and Dome - araldite in place. Drwg. 251 Chimney Original and Drwg. 254 Dome Original or Drwg. 252 Chimney Flowerpot or Drwg. 253, Chimney Pseudo-GCR, Drwg. 251 Dome Original or Drwg. 254 Dome Flattened or Drwg. 255 Dome Angular.
Footplate Side Covers Drwg. 203- araldite the moulded side covers Drwg. Xxx in place. The front should fit at or slight to the rear of the fold in the frame. Ensure that they do not overlap the edge of the footplates or it will be difficult to separate the frame and body over the rivets of the frame.
Safety Valves - araldite in place Ramsbottom 4-column safety valve supplied or a pair of Ross Pops which were sometimes fitted before superheating during the 1920s.
Whistle - solder in place on roof or after the grouping to the front of the cab - note that some very early locomotives had a pair of whistles which were used for signalling.
Back Head Drwg.201 - fit inside cab - preferably before soldering roof in place so that it can be painted. Add Cab Handles (85-88) and Regulator Lever (121-123) . Note that the back head is not heat resistant.
Sand Box Fillers Drwg. 206 - ream out locating holes (one on each side of smoke box ) and fit from the top, solder in place. Make sure that they do not interfere with the fitting of the frames.
Oil Boxes Covers Drwg. 205- ream out 3 locating holes on each side by the smoke box to suit parts provided fit from underneath so that the flange is a snug fit against the underside of the foot plate. One side of the flange should be filed off or it may impinge on the chassis sandbox thus preventing a proper fit (in my test case it bent the footplate!). Add Oil Filler Caps (38-43) to the top with the hinge (flat) to the front of the locomotive if these are required (hardly noticeable).
Smoke Box Door Drwg. 258 - Remove Smoke Box Door hinge (125) from the fret - solder one hinge to door side and use the extension as a support for the hinge mechanism consisting of some very short lengths of 0.8 mm tube and 0.45 brass wire - its easier than it sounds and looks far more accurate than a cast part.
The smoke box door is pre-drilled 1 mm for the Markits door handle.
Smoke Box Door Handle - use the supplied Markits version, then fit the smoke box door to the front of the smoke box using araldite.
Snifter Drwg. 228 - for superheated locomotives fit just behind the chimney.
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