Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Costa Rica Photo Journey

16-25 July 2017

Tour Leader: Jay Packer

Many thanks to Deepak Ramineedi for allowing us to include his photos in this trip report.

This Yellow-throated Toucan at Laguna del Lagarto wasn’t bothered at all by the rain.

Note: Except where noted otherwise, all photos in this trip report were taken by Jay Packer.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Introduction

This Costa Rican photo journey featured visits to five regions of this small Central American country. We covered the moist Caribbean slope, Caribbean lowlands, dry forests on the Pacific slope, a large tropical river, and cloud forests of the volcanic highlands. The clients on the tour were a young couple and their 8-month old son. Given the considerations of traveling with an infant, the pace of the tour was relaxed and much of the photography was done at feeders or from the car. Even so, the diversity of Costa Rica was impressive as we encountered almost 200 species, photographing most of the targets that we hoped to see. Photographic highlights of the trip included stunning shots of toucan species in the rain, great multiflash photography, a nesting pair of Turquoise-browed Motmots, Spectacled , King Vultures, Resplendent Quetzal, very cooperative Great Green and Scarlet Macaws, Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl, and more.

16 July 2017

We began the tour with a drive out of San Jose to the well known Casa de Cope, west of Guápiles. Here, local artist and conservationist Cope caters to photographers with an impressive backyard habitat that features fruit feeders and hummingbird nectar. We spent three hours in the morning enjoying an introduction to the of the moist Caribbean slope. Passerini’s , Green , Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, and Long- billed Hermit all offered great pictures, while an elusive White-tipped Sicklebill toyed with us, darting in to feed on nearby Heliconia flowers but then leaving as fast as he arrived. Non-avian highlights included Strawberry or “Blue Jean” Poison Dart Frogs and an Eyelash Pit Viper.

The camouflage of the Eyelash Pit Viper is exquisite. Photo courtesy of Deepak Ramineedi.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

This male Green Honeycreeper enjoyed the fruit feeders at Casa de Cope.

Bronze-tailed Plumeleteers fiercely guarded the feeders at Casa de Cope.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

After lunch at a nearby restaurant owned by Cope’s friend, we continued our drive to Selva Verde, a lodge protecting some 500 acres of wet Caribbean-slope lowland forest. We enjoyed a relaxing evening before dinner and enjoyed views of the basilisk lizards (capable of running short distances over water with their large hind feet), Green and Black Poison Dart Frogs, and a shy Rufous Motmot.

17 July 2017

In the morning, we were greeted by Mantled Howler Monkeys who graciously provided a wake-up call at 5am, despite not being asked to do so. After a delicious breakfast with our daily infusion of coffee, we headed west to Finca Calaveras, a farm owned by Don Alvaro. It is here that a group of Scarlet and Great Green Macaws have become habituated to a steady supply of peanuts on offer each morning. Witnessing the routine alone is impressive enough. “Lapaaaaa! Lapa, lapa, lapa, lapa, lapa, come lapaaaaaaa!” (Macaws! … Come eat, macaws!) The pictures were the icing on the cake.

One of the many habituated Scarlet Macaws at Don Alvaro’s farm.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

When the farmer calls them for food, they fly in nice and close for their daily treats.

Great Green Macaws also come in to feed at the farm.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Where there’s food to be stolen, you’ll find White-throated Capuchins ready to steal it.

Having enjoyed the macaws, we returned to the lodge for some lunch and well earned rest. Satisfied, we headed back out in the afternoon to Dave and Dave’s Nature Park, the home of one of Costa Rica’s premier photographic destinations. Formerly known as Nature Pavilion, the location is the home of Dave Sr. and his son Dave Jr. The former was a native of San Francisco that moved to Costa Rica some 40 years ago, and his son now helps run the family business. Their house features extensive feeders with fruit and sugar water for the toucans, tanagers, and that spent the day enjoying the buffet set out for them. We spent a little time at the fruit feeders but decided to focus instead on using multiflash photography to capture the variety of hummingbirds coming in to feed. Dave Sr. was incredibly helpful as we setup on his back porch to enjoy and capture the afternoon show and the furious burst of activity that occurred as dusk fell. Multiflash uses multiple off camera flashes to freeze fast motion in birds like hummingbirds. The results can be stunning, and we were certainly pleased with our results at Dave and Dave’s. Highlights included Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, a species largely confined to Central America, the beautiful Crowned Woodnymph, and more common denizens like White-necked Jacobins and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds. We were also awed by our first looks and pictures of a toucan when a Yellow-throated Toucan decided to yelp from the top of a tree above us for an extended period of time.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, one of the common species at Dave and Dave’s feeders.

We returned to Selva Verde for dinner and a well-deserved night’s sleep.

18 July 2017

Blessed by howler monkeys that evidently decided to sleep in themselves, we awoke this morning at 6am. After packing up and grabbing a quick breakfast, we hit the road for a bit of a drive to the lowlands of Laguna del Lagarto, a lodge in northern Costa Rica not far as the Harpy Eagle flies from . As we drove from paved roads known to Google Maps to dirt tracks off the labeled path, it began to rain – a phenomenon not unknown in rainforests. It didn’t let up either, and we feared that the afternoon would be lost to the weather.

When we arrived at the lodge, we walked into the covered dining area to witness a continuous stream of activity that had us immediately running back out into the rain to the car to grab our camera gear. We spent the next six hours, save a short break for lunch, photographing the nonstop activity that came into the feeders and the surrounding trees from the lodge, all while staying dry and enjoying the occasional refreshing glass of juice.

For much of the afternoon, we had repeated opportunities to photograph all three toucan species in the area. Yellow-throated Toucans, the iconic Keel-billed Toucan, and the slimmed down Collared Aracari all came in throughout the day at close range. The real challenge at times was fitting them into a 500mm lens! www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 7

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Keel-billed Toucan, perhaps the most famous in Central America.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Yellow-throated Toucans also sat for absolutely stunning portraits.

In addition to the croakers and the yelpers above, we enjoyed a large supporting cast around the lodge that included at least three separate nests of Black-cheeked Woodpeckers, Long-tailed Tyrants, and Black-crowned Tityras.

Also offering excellent photos were a host of tanagers including Passerini's, Blue-gray, Palm, Golden-hooded and the three : Shining, Red-legged, and Green. A troop of Montezuma Oropendolas came through from time to time scaring everything off, like a band of teenaged misfits at the local shopping mall. To top it all off, we saw Brown-hooded, Mealy, and Red-lored Parrots in the area as well as a pair of Great Green Macaws that announced their presence with a scream as they flew past the lodge.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

A mother Collared Aracari with her nearly full-grown chick.

This Black-cheeked Woodpecker was just one of 30 species seen from the lodge dining room on our first afternoon at Laguna del Lagarto.

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The Golden-hooded is one of Costa Rica’s most beautiful tanagers.

The Brown-hooded Parrots around the lodge were downright adorable.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Long-tailed Tyrants are distinctive little flycatchers with tails longer than their bodies.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

The can be separated from the similar by its bright yellow (as opposed to red) legs.

The Montezuma Oropendola is an extremely large and odd member of the blackbird family.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

As we tore ourselves away in the late afternoon for a canoe trip through the lagoon, we were greeted by a White-nosed Coati walking by as though he owned the place. Nothing demonstrates trust for your guide quite like getting into a boat and hoping for the best. We returned safe and sound, having only gotten stuck once for five minutes on a fallen tree. We didn’t see much – a Black-bellied Whistling Duck, a pair of Green Kingfishers, and a heard (never seen) Great Tinamou – but the experience of canoeing through still waters was the perfect end to an amazing day in the tropics.

This White-nosed Coati, a member of the raccoon family, took his sweet time crossing the lodge grounds.

19 July 2017

Our second day at Laguna del Largarto began much the same as the first. It rained. We enjoyed the show at the feeders again but lamented the weather and the impact it would likely have on our hopes of photographing King Vultures (more on this later).

In addition to the repeat customers from yesterday, we had great looks at the recently split Russet-naped Wood- Rail, a couple of Slaty-tailed Trogons, and a family of Great Curassows complete with a male, female, and a young bird about 2/3rds the size of the adults.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

A pair of Russet-naped Wood-Rails seemed to enjoy the rain.

Black-crowned Tityras were one of several species nesting outside the lodge.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

This Slaty-tailed Trogon created quite a stir as he streaked by and perched in a nearby tree.

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Laguna del Lagarto is perhaps one of the best places in the world to photograph King Vultures, a species that needs large tracts of undisturbed tropical forests. Through the use of a permanent hide built low into the ground, photographers can get up close and personal with this spectacular, colorful vulture. When the rain finally broke, we didn’t have to wait long before spotting several in a tree above the blind. After a quick hike up the road, we reached the blind and settled in for the show. One bird was visiting the hide, snapping and hissing his supremacy towards the horde of Black Vultures tyring to challenge him.

A King Vulture struck a majestic pose at the vulture hide of Laguna del Largarto.

The morning a resounding success, we returned to the lodge for a good lunch and then took some rest in the afternoon. When we returned for dinner, we were privy to a pair of Scarlet Macaws that flew by and as it was getting dark, views of Short-tailed Nighthawks fluttering over the lodge. The real surprise came as we started our night walk. We had a Crested Owl perched in a tree right by the lodge, giving good looks to all. He never made a sound. Though they’ve been seen in the forest, this was a first sighting by the lodge itself, and I can confidently say that this was the first time I’ve ever looked up in a tree at night and just happened to see an owl sitting silently. Not anticipating photos, we naturally had left the cameras behind. Still, it was quite an experience. We also enjoyed good looks at several Spectacled Caiman along the lagoon’s edges before returning to the lodge for some night photography. We got excellent shots of confiding Red-eyed Tree Frogs and Strawberry or ‘Blue Jeans” Poison Dart Frogs and then returned for bed, tired but happy.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

For those with the energy to power into the night, Costa Rica’s frogs are a sight to behold. This Red-eyed Tree Frog sat on a Heliconia flower for photos. Photo courtesy of Deepak Ramineedi.

One of Costa Rica’s most popular frogs is the tiny Strawberry or “Blue Jeans” Poison Dart Frog. Photo courtesy of Deepak Ramineedi. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 18

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

20 July 2017

During our final morning enjoying the beautiful birds at the feeders, we added Violet-headed Hummingbird in the lodge’s gardens. After breakfast, we packed up and made the long but scenic drive west, across the volcanic mountains that divide Costa Rica.

We bid farewell to the Collared Aracari and his toucan friends as we headed west to the Pacific slope.

After lunch in La Fortuna, we drove past the large and scenic Lake Arenal before reaching our final destination, Hacienda Solimar. A working cattle ranch situated in the dry forests on the Pacific side of the country, the ranch gets its name from the Spanish words for Sun and Sea, as the Colorado Gulf is visible on a clear day from the ranch’s highest hills. The habitat changes decidedly here, with much shorter trees adapted to long periods in the year with reduced rainfall. Our visit to the dry forest coincided with the rainy season, however, so the vegetation was lush and green. We arrived in the late afternoon, in time to enjoy flocks of curious Groove-billed Anis and vocal Yellow-naped Parrots.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Don’t be fooled. The Groove-billed Ani is not a blackbird but a member of the cuckoo family.

Tired from the drive, we relaxed, sitting outside on the large front porch where we enjoyed the sweeping vistas of the hills and forests as the sun drifted below the horizon. A Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl sounded off as it got dark. We then enjoyed an excellent dinner and made an early departure to bed in anticipation of the day to follow.

21 July 2017

We got an early start this morning, grabbing the life-sustaining chemicals in coffee and then heading out at 5:30am to the vast wetlands of Hacienda Solimar. Paradoxically, the conditions are a little harder this time of year during the wet season, since the large amount of suitable habitat has species spread out across the landscape instead of congregating in dwindling puddles.

We were greeted by a plague of small doves, consisting of Ruddy, Common, and Plain-breasted Ground-Doves along with a smattering of Inca Doves that flew up from the road in huge numbers as we drove out from the house. As we entered the wetlands, a lone Jabiru greeted us but sadly flew before we could obtain pictures.

The wetlands were teeming with life, but we had to work harder for our shots. We had perhaps grown a bit lazy, spoiled by the excellent hides and feeders at our previous location as the birds came to us. We had ten species of www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 20

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017 wading birds this morning, with opportunities to photograph Wood Stork, Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, and Roseate Spoonbill. Colorful Northern Jacana seemed to fly about everywhere we went.

Seen well, the Bare-throated Tiger-Heron might just be one of the most beautiful herons in the world.

We also enjoyed a pair of confiding Double-striped Thick-knees running along the road before us in beautiful morning light. Scientists place these large terrestrial shorebirds in their own family due to their unique features. Found across the world, only two species occur in the Americas. Fun fact: they are noisy and active at night. For this reason, some people in Latin America like to have them around as "guard dogs."

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The Double-striped Thick-knee is a large terrestrial shorebird that’s noisy at night.

Northern Jacana have massive toes to walk on aquatic vegetation and spikes on their wings to fight off rivals.

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The highlight of the morning though was undoubtedly a pair of hungry Laughing Falcons. Having spotted one from the car, we stopped and got out for pictures. That’s when one of the birds flew down to pounce on a snake. His grab for food successful, he then flew around excitedly with the snake, his mate calling nearby as a couple of photographers’ jaws hit the ground and silent prayers for sharp focus and high shutter speeds went up.

Watching this Laughing Falcon catch a snake was the highlight of the morning.

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We returned to the house for breakfast and a break. Refreshed, we went back out in search of day-roosting . Make no mistake. It was hard work. Carrying our camera gear, we hiked for an hour in a forest that had more mosquitos than trees. It was hot and the humidity was absolute. Our shirts looked like they’d been taken directly from the washing machine, only we didn’t feel quite as fresh. But you know what they say about hard work paying off… We were ecstatic when we finally found our bird, a roosting Spectacled Owl. We patiently found an angle unobstructed by vegetation and then waited long periods of time between the bird’s naps to capture a moment where he paid us any attention. With an extra spring in our step from the thrill of success, we hiked back out of the forest leaving the owl undisturbed.

This day-roosting Spectacled Owl took a lot of work to find but sat confidingly for photos.

We were greeted back at the house by a pair of Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls who seemed eager to earn our appreciation as well. Tired and happy, we ate lunch and took rest from the work of the morning.

In the evening, we ventured back out for a drive through the countryside. Unfortunately, it began to rain and the activity was suppressed. We did have a Crested Bobwhite, at least a couple thousand Gray-breasted Martins perched on powerlines, and a very cooperative Stripe-headed Sparrow that posed outside the windows.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

A Stripe-headed Sparrow struck a pose out the car window on a rainy afternoon.

After dinner, we walked around outside and tried our luck with owls. We quickly had a Barn Owl fly around over our heads, while a Pacific Screech-Owl began to sing. While looking for the screech-owl, we spotted a sleeping Turquoise-browed Motmot in the same tree! Cognizant that a screech-owl might eat a motmot, I quickly turned off the light. After a couple of minutes, the screech-owl gave good looks but no pictures.

22 July 2017

In the morning before returning to the wetlands, a White-throated Magpie-Jay made a brief appearance in the trees near the house. On our drive out to the wetlands, we spotted an adult Spot-breasted Oriole feeding a young bird. The wetlands were once again productive with large numbers of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks and 12 species of wading birds, exceeding even yesterday’s total. One of the birds that we picked up was a small group of Boat-billed Herons that made life difficult for photographers by doing their best to put a few branches between themselves and us.

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Boat-billed Herons are crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk) and use their large eyes to find prey in dim light. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 26

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks were common in the wetlands of Hacienda Solimar.

Another highlight this morning was a pair of massive tractors with giant ‘wheels’ that mowed the vegetation. They were working in a field, and the number of birds in attendance was immense. We saw the opportunity to practice some flight photography, as each time a tractor mowed a strip towards us, a group of birds came flying in behind it to feed on the and that were disturbed. Wood Storks, Great, Snowy, and hundreds of Cattle Egrets, Green Herons, Black-crowned Night-Herons, and White Ibis all flew around with abandon as we filled up memory cards and pushed the limits of how long we could hand hold our heavy lenses.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

There’s something that feels almost prehistoric when you watch a Wood Stork fly by.

After breakfast, we made a run for Pacific Screech-Owls. We found a pair roosting under a barn, but the background wasn’t great for photography. Silly owls, roosting in a place where they were guaranteed to be out of the sun and rain. So we packed up, had a quick shower, and then headed south, hugging the coast on our way to Cerro Lodge. We arrived in time for lunch but got distracted by birds coming in around the lodge. A pair of Scarlet Macaws got everyone at the restaurant excited and a Lineated Woodpecker seemed intent to leisurely hammer away on a tree, providing our first photos of the trip. White-throated Capuchin Monkeys made quick work of the bananas set out for the birds.

Following lunch, we made our way down to the Rio Tarcoles for a private afternoon cruise. There’s just something about rivers that I can’t get enough of. There’s tons of things to photograph, it’s relaxing, there’s lots of light for photography, and the birds are often totally unafraid since you’re in a boat instead of lumbering up to them as a big scary . We sailed upriver, away from the coastal forests which we left unexplored until tomorrow. Highlights included a nesting pair of Turquoise-browed Motmots, an estimated 30 Scarlet Macaws, a sunning American Crocodile on the river bank, and many more. We sailed back down the river to its mouth, where it empties into the Pacific Ocean and enjoyed the sunset.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

A river cruise is an excellent way to photograph Green Herons, which often stay hidden in the shadows.

A sunning American Crocodile showed his pearly whites in the golden light of the late afternoon.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

A pair of stunning Turquoise-browed Motmots brought food to a nest on the banks of the river.

23 July 2017

Forgoing breakfast, we returned to the Rio Tarcoles to explore the rich mangrove forests. We set out with Wilke, an excellent boat captain with a knowledge and passion for the river’s birds. We were greeted by swarms of Mangrove Swallows that proved too difficult to photograph in flight but posed serenely in the soft light of early morning. A female Green Kingfisher allowed close approach, more interested in hunting in the waters below than the humans drifting ever closer. Large numbers of Scarlet Macaws screamed as they woke up and prepared to fly out to parts unknown for the day.

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Mangrove Swallows were plentiful along the Rio Tarcoles, but we met our match when we tried to photograph them in flight. We settled instead for excellent portraits.

This female Green Kingfisher shakes what she’s got, creating a beautiful photogenic spray.

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Before going out to face the day, it’s important to look your best! Just ask this Scarlet Macaw.

The held notable birds as well, perhaps none more exciting, and frustrating, than Mangrove Hummingbird. This little bird, plain and unremarkable by hummingbird standards, is noteworthy nonetheless for being endemic to Costa Rica and the only hummingbird to live entirely in mangroves. It feeds primarily on the white flowers of a single tree, the Tea Mangrove. We glimpsed a single bird with our eyes and saw another zip by in flight. Can’t photograph ‘em all.

Another highlight was good looks at Mangrove Yellow Warbler. This is just that. It’s considered a geographic race of the Yellow Warbler. These birds are distinct though, with a rich chestnut hood on the head. Full species or not, we enjoyed seeing it.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Mangrove Yellow Warbler, a distinct geographic race of the Yellow Warbler.

We returned to Cerro Lodge for breakfast and then hit the road in search of the famed cloud forests found on Costa Rica’s volcanos. We drove through some of the heaviest rains of the trip on our way to our hotel, Paraiso Quetzal. After lunch, the rain subsided enough to allow photography on the back porch of the restaurant. The number of species wasn’t high – we recorded only 14 – but the quality was. We had some real stunners. The feeders were guarded by angry Talamanca Hummingbirds, a species split only three weeks prior from the bird formerly known as Magnificent Hummingbird. We were also blown away by the one-of-a-kind Fiery-throated Hummingbird, a species found only in the mountains of Costa Rica and western Panama and one that we would spend three days trying to get the perfect shot of. Other highlights included Black-and-yellow and Long-tailed Silky-flycatchers as well as several flocks of very distant Barred Parakeets that flew by in the evening.

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This Talamanca Hummingbird provided a unique opportunity for photos in the fading light of sunset.

After dinner, we relaxed by the fire, the cold temperatures at 8,000 feet a welcome change from the heat of the lowlands.

24 July 2017

We began the day with coffee and a light snack, followed by a drive down the road to the nearby community of Esperanza. The word means hope in Spanish, an apt name as we certainly had high hopes of seeing perhaps the most beautiful bird in the word, the Resplendent Quetzal. In this region, hotels and guides have partnered with local communities so that everyone benefits from the tourism that the cloud forest generates.

Not long after visiting our first farm, we found ourselves face-to-face with a Resplendent Quetzal. Males normally have flowing tails that extend some two feet beyond the bird. Only it’s not technically a tail. Instead, the upper tail coverts — feathers that are above the tail — are elongated in this species. At least they should be. Unfortunately for us, the bird that we saw was a molting immature male and lacked the long feathers. He just needs a little more time to reach his full potential.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

This immature male Resplendent Quetzal was cooperative but needs just a little more time to grow his feathers out and reach his full potential. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 35

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

We waited around in the hopes of finding a male quetzal in full regalia but sadly it wasn’t meant to be. Our consolation prize was a decidedly more austere Ochraceous Wren, who was pretty interested in the guests hanging out to photograph quetzals. Normally shy and secretive, he posed for just an instant for photos.

An Ochraceous Wren poses for just an instant in the volcanic highlands.

About to leave for breakfast, we received a call that another farm nearby had spotted a Costa Rican Pygmy- Owl. We raced over to check out the action, arriving seconds too late. The bird had just flown, but we knew he was nearby because a flock of angry songbirds was still bitterly complaining of the owl’s presence. After five minutes of checking the trees, we located our bird. He was a rufous morph, the rarer of the two colors found in this species. (The other is the brown morph, which looks surprisingly different with more prominent white spots on the crown.) This species was recently split from the Andean Pygmy-Owl when genetics and comparisons of vocalizations revealed they are actually more closely related to the Northern Pygmy-owl and deserving of their own species. Never easy to find, they occur in the mountains of Costa Rica into western Panama.

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The Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl can be a very hard bird to find, so we counted ourselves lucky when we got a tip from a local farmer who had located a bird.

After breakfast, we hit a local blind near the hotel where a pair of Acorn Woodpeckers were hard at work caching food for the future. We also grabbed some shots of White-winged Tanagers as a pair visited the feeders.

We enjoyed lunch back at the hotel and then setup on their private patio for a session of multiflash photography where we enjoyed a feisty contingent of Talamanca Hummingbirds fighting over the feeders. We were also excited to see two highland specialities come in nearby, Spangle-cheeked Tanager and Golden-browed Chlorophonia. We worked until dark and then packed it up for dinner.

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A female Talamanca Hummingbird fuels up before the cold night. Photo courtesy of Deepak Ramineedi.

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25 July 2017

On our last morning of the trip, we departed again once more to look for Resplendent Quetzals. We had hoped to find an adult male in all his glory but it began to rain so we conceded defeat and retreated to breakfast.

The weather improved, we dedicated ourselves to capturing a perfect shot of Fiery-throated Hummingbird. Sometimes an obsessive personality comes in handy because these guys made it hard. To begin with, there weren’t that many of them and they didn’t come in that often. When they did, they were harassed and bullied by the larger, more aggressive Talamanca Hummingbirds. We often had mere seconds to try and lock focus and take the shot. And to top it all off, the colors on this species seem especially difficult to capture as the angle has to be just right. The slightest deviation and the throat looks dark. Our persistence finally prevailed!

Getting the perfect shot of Fiery-throated Hummingbird took far more work that we imagined.

Triumphant at last, we broke for lunch and then worked the hotel grounds where we had opportunities to photograph Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush, more Black-and-yellow and Long-tailed Silky-flycatchers, Large- footed Finch, and Hairy Woodpecker.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush may be drab, but their beautiful songs create an enchanting atmosphere in the cloud forest.

Another common bird of the highlands with subtle beauty is the Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Nearing the end of our fantastic trip, we had one surprise still to come. A flock of Swallow-tailed Kites appeared in the afternoon as the sun broke through, warming the air and creating thermals. The hotel has a very tall observation tower overlooking the valley, and sensing the opportunity, we headed up with our cameras. Sure enough, several birds obliged and a did a close flyby. Wow!

In our final moments, a flock of Swallow-tailed Kites gave us a show from an observation tower.

The smiles from the kites still lingering on our faces, we loaded up the car to head back to San Jose. It was a wildly successful trip, with so many photos we’ll be busy for weeks picking out and polishing the gems.

– Jay Packer

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Bird and Other Species Lists:

The following bird list records all species seen or heard on the trip. Not all species were seen by all participants, nor was every species photographed.

Species marked with (E) are endemic to the region (mostly Costa Rica and the mountains of western Panama).

The of the bird list follows the eBird checklist. This list is up to date with the major changes published by Cornell through August 2017.

TINAMOUS: TINAMIDAE Great Tinamou Tinamus major DUCKS, GEESE, AND WATERFOWL: ANATIDAE Black-bellied Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata GUANS, CHACHALACAS, AND CURASSOWS: CRACIDAE Great Curassow Crax rubra NEW WORLD QUAIL: ODONTOPHORIDAE Crested Bobwhite Colinus cristatus STORKS: CICONIIDAE Jabiru Jabiru mycteria Wood Stork Mycteria americana FRIGATEBIRDS: FREGATIDAE Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens CORMORANTS AND SHAGS: PHALACROCORACIDAE Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus ANHINGAS: ANHINGIDAE Anhinga Anhinga anhinga PELICANS: PELECANIDAE Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis HERONS, EGRETS, AND BITTERNS: ARDEIDAE Bare-throated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma mexicanum Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias Great Egret Ardea alba Snowy Egret Egretta thula www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 42

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Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Green Heron Butorides virescens Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius IBISES AND SPOONBILLS: THRESKIORNITHIDAE White Ibis Eudocimus albus Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja NEW WORLD VULTURES:

CATHARTIDAE Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa OSPREY: PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus HAWKS, EAGLES, AND KITES: ACCIPITRIDAE Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Common Black-Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus Gray Hawk Buteo plagiatus RAILS,GALLINULES, AND COOTS: RALLIDAE Russet-naped Wood-Rail Aramides albiventris Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus LIMPKIN: ARAMIDAE Limpkin Aramus guarauna THICK-KNEES: BURHINIDAE Double-striped Thick-knee Burhinus bistriatus STILTS AND AVOCETS: RECURVIROSTRIDAE www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 43

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS: CHARADRIIDAE Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus JACANAS: JACANIDAE Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa SANDPIPERS AND ALLIES: SCOLOPACIDAE Sanderling Calidris alba Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius GULLS, TERNS, AND SKIMMERS:

LARIDAE Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus PIGEONS AND DOVES: COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon Columba livia Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Inca Dove Columbina inca Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina Plain-breasted Ground-Dove Columbina minuta Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica CUCKOOS: CUCULIDAE Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana BARN-OWLS: TYTONIDAE Barn Owl Tyto alba OWLS: STRIGIDAE Pacific Screech-Owl Megascops cooperi www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 44

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl (E) Glaucidium costaricanum Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum NIGHTJARS AND ALLIES: CAPRIMULGIDAE Short-tailed Nighthawk Lurocalis semitorquatus SWIFTS: APODIDAE White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris Vaux's Swift Chaetura vauxi HUMMINGBIRDS: TROCHILIDAE White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora White-tipped Sicklebill Eutoxeres aquila Long-billed Hermit Phaethornis longirostris Stripe-throated Hermit Phaethornis striigularis Lesser Violetear Colibri cyanotus Talamanca Hummingbird Eugenes spectabilis Fiery-throated Hummingbird (E) Panterpe insignis White-throated Mountain-gem Lampornis castaneoventris Volcano Hummingbird (E) Selasphorus flammula Violet-headed Hummingbird Klais guimeti Scaly-breasted Hummingbird Phaeochroa cuvierii Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer Chalybura urochrysia Crowned Woodnymph Thalurania colombica Mangrove Hummingbird (E) Amazilia boucardi Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl TROGONS: TROGONIDAE Resplendent Quetzal Pharomachrus mocinno Slaty-tailed Trogon Trogon massena MOTMOTS: MOMOTIDAE Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii Turquoise-browed Motmot Eumomota superciliosa KINGFISHERS: ALCEDINIDAE Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 45

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Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana TOUCANS: RAMPHASTIDAE Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus torquatus Yellow-throated (Chestnut-mandibled) Toucan Ramphastos ambiguus swainsonii Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus WOODPECKERS: PICIDAE Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus Black-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes pucherani Hoffmann's Woodpecker (E) Melanerpes hoffmannii Hairy Woodpecker Picoides villosus Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus FALCONS AND CARACARAS:

FALCONIDAE Barred Forest-Falcon Micrastur ruficollis Collared Forest-Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans NEW WORLD & AFRICAN PARROTS: PSITTACIDAE Barred Parakeet Bolborhynchus lineola Orange-chinned Parakeet Brotogeris jugularis Brown-hooded Parrot Pyrilia haematotis White-crowned Parrot Pionus senilis Red-lored Parrot Amazona autumnalis Yellow-naped Parrot Amazona auropalliata Mealy Parrot Amazona farinosa Orange-fronted Parakeet Eupsittula canicularis Great Green Macaw Ara ambiguus Scarlet Macaw Ara macao Crimson-fronted Parakeet (E) Psittacara finschi TYPICAL ANTBIRDS: THAMNOPHILIDAE Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 46

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

OVENBIRDS AND WOODCREEPERS: FURNARIIDAE Northern Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae Cocoa Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus susurrans Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii Buffy Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes lawrencii lawrencii Ruddy Treerunner (E) Margarornis rubiginosus TYRANT FLYCATCHERS: TYRANNIDAE Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Panama Flycatcher Myiarchus panamensis Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Gray-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus MANAKINS: PIPRIDAE White-collared Manakin Manacus candei TITYRAS AND ALLIES: TITYRIDAE Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae VIREOS, SHRIKE-BABBLERS & ERPORNIS: VIREONIDAE Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis CROWS, JAYS, AND MAGPIES:

CORVIDAE White-throated Magpie-Jay Calocitta formosa Brown Jay Psilorhinus morio SWALLOWS: HIRUNDINIDAE Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea WRENS: TROGLODYTIDAE House Wren Troglodytes aedon www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 47

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Ochraceous Wren (E) Troglodytes ochraceus Rufous-naped Wren Campylorhynchus rufinucha Stripe-breasted Wren (E) Cantorchilus thoracicus Bay Wren Cantorchilus nigricapillus Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys THRUSHES AND ALLIES: TURDIDAE Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush (E) Catharus gracilirostris Sooty Thrush (Robin) E Turdus nigrescens Clay-colored Thrush (Robin) Turdus grayi SILKY-FLYCATCHERS: PTILOGONATIDAE Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher (E) Phainoptila melanoxantha Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher (E) Ptilogonys caudatus NEW WORLD WARBLERS: PARULIDAE Flame-throated Warbler (E) Oreothlypis gutturalis Yellow (Mangrove) Warbler Setophaga petechia bryanti Black-cheeked Warbler (E) Basileuterus melanogenys Buff-rumped Warbler Myiothlypis fulvicauda Wrenthrush (Zeledonia) (E) Zeledonia coronata TANAGERS AND ALLIES: THRAUPIDAE Passerini's Tanager Ramphocelus passerinii Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Golden-hooded Tanager Tangara larvata Spangle-cheeked Tanager (E) Tangara dowii Plain-colored Tanager (E) Tangara inornata Shining Honeycreeper Cyanerpes lucidus Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza Slaty (E) Diglossa plumbea Variable Seedeater (Caribbean) Sporophila corvina corvina Variable Seedeater (Pacific) Sporophila corvina hoffmanni White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola Coereba flaveola www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 48

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens BUNTINGS AND NEW WORLD SPARROWS: EMBERIZIDAE Sooty-capped Chlorospingus (E) Chlorospingus pileatus Stripe-headed Sparrow Peucaea ruficauda Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Large-footed Finch (E) Pezopetes capitalis CARDINALS AND ALLIES:

CARDINALIDAE White-winged Tanager Piranga leucoptera Red-throated Ant-Tanager Habia fuscicauda TROUPIALS AND ALLIES: ICTERIDAE Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna Montezuma Oropendola Psarocolius montezuma Black-cowled Oriole Icterus prosthemelas Streak-backed Oriole Icterus pustulatus Spot-breasted Oriole Icterus pectoralis Red-winged Blackbird Agelaius phoeniceus Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus Melodious Blackbird Dives dives Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus FINCHES, EUPHONIAS & ALLIES: FRINGILLIDAE Golden-browed Chlorophonia (E) Chlorophonia callophrys Olive-backed Euphonia Euphonia gouldi

MAMMALS Nine-banded Long-nosed Armadillo Dasypus novemcinctus White-throated Capuchin Monkey Cebus capucinus Mantled Howler Monkey Alouatta palliata Red-tailed Squirrel Sciurus granatensis Variegated Squirrel Sciurus variegatoides www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 49

Tropical Birding Trip Report Costa Rica Photo Journey: July 2017

Northern (Common) Raccoon Procyon lotor White-nosed Coati Nasua narica OTHER WILDLIFE (a selection) AMPHIBIANS Marine Toad Rhinella (Bufo) marina Red-eyed Tree Frog Agalychnis callidryas Green and Black Poison Frog Dendrobates auratus Strawberry Poison Frog Oophaga (Dendrobates) pumilio REPTILES Black River Turtle Rhinoclemmys funerea Common Basilisk Basiliscus basiliscus Emerald Basilisk Basiliscus plumifrons Green Iguana Iguana iguana Common House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus Eyelash Pit Viper Bothriechis schlegelii Spectacled Caiman Caiman crocodilus American Crocodile Crocodylus acutus INSECTS Common/Peliedes (Blue) Morpho Morpho peleides Illioneus Giant Owl (butterfly) Caligo illioneus Rhinoceros Dynastinae sp.

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