BIGHORN WILDLAND ALBERTA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION DISCLAIMER Those contributing to the content of this book in the area today. Place names used throughout are Alberta Wilderness Association (AWA) have conducted their research and written to the those of common usage and most are of European Box 6398, Stn. D, Calgary, AB T2P 2E1 best of their knowledge. AWA cannot claim origin. AWA understands that the Stoney Nation www.albertawilderness.ca responsibility for variance of content with the is assembling a list of aboriginal place names for views or knowledge of others. Wilderness travel is the area, but these are not yet available. not without risk. Readers are advised to seek BIGHORN WILDLAND advice, ensure that they are suitably equipped and OPYRIGHT ISBN: 0-920074-20-0 realistically assess their experience level before C 2003 venturing into the backcountry. by Alberta Wilderness Association (AWA) Printed in Canada Any use of the terms he/him and man/men are not All rights reserved. No part of this work Designed by: meant to exclude the female gender and are used covered by the copyright hereon may be Ball Creative & Communications generically to refer to humankind. Aboriginal and reproduced or used in any form or by any Printed by: First Nations are terms used to describe indigenous means - graphic, electronic or mechanical - Topline Printing Inc. peoples both from the distant past and those living without the written permission of AWA. ALBERTA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION BIGHORN WILDLAND Defending Wild Alberta through Awareness and Action Alberta Wilderness Association is the oldest wilderness conservation group in Alberta dedicated to the completion of a protected areas network and the conservation of wilderness throughout the province. Formed in 1965 in rural southwest Alberta by backcountry enthusiasts, ranchers and outfitters, AWA has grown to include a wide diversity of backgrounds and skills in its membership. With almost four decades of successes, it is known for its tenacity, memory and integrity. It is a non-profit, federally registered, charitable society with a great deal of its work being carried out by volunteers. AWA’s mission is to defend wild Alberta through awareness and action. Through this book we invite you to explore one of Alberta’s last pristine big wilderness areas and join us in standing up for its protection. It is our goal that one day our children’s children will see the Bighorn as we do, in all its wild splendour. I ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Alberta Wilderness Association (AWA) appreciates Joyce Hildebrand capably ushered the book the colour photographs; Peter Jones for the vision and dedication of Vivian Pharis in through its final edit. The Association recognizes permission to modify, from his original work, the completing this book. Writing a book about this the many contributors who so willingly and geological map and cross-sections (Jones and magnificent wilderness has been her dream for supportively gave of their personal time and Workum 1978) appearing in Chapter 12 as many years. Vivian guided the book through its made this vision a reality. Figures 3 and 4 and for supplying the aerial view early drafts and was the primary contact with of the Brazeau Range appearing in Figure 5; and chapter contributors. She wrote several chapters AWA gratefully acknowledges generous grants Dave Sargent of G.S.C. Calgary, who digitized and assisted in the early editing of contributed from TD Friends of the Environment Figures 2 to 5. Some of the entries in the glossary pieces. Dorothy Dickson lent her expertise as an Foundation; Alberta Sport, Recreation, Parks and were modified from glossary entries in Mussieux editor for many of the chapters, and Peter Wildlife Foundation; Aurum Lodge; Mountain and Nelson (1998). Sherrington did the first critical read-through Equipment Coop, Edmonton; and the family of and edit of the entire manuscript. Dr. Herb Ray Sloan. Always remembered as an explorer, Elaine Gordon thanks Vivian Pharis for her Kariel and Pat Jackson were consultants and their interpreter and defender of wildlife, Ray would inspiration and beautiful photographs, John material regarding landmarks, geography and the have been thrilled to see this book published. Rintoul of the Alberta Natural Heritage area’s climate was incorporated throughout. AWA Information Centre for plant information, and staff coordinated development of the maps, Roger Macqueen thanks Margot McMechan, her husband, Don Gordon, for his helpful proofread, edited subsequent versions of the Vivian Pharis, Dave Sargent and Glen Stockmal suggestions. Also special thanks to Joyce Gould manuscript, researched elements of the book and for useful suggestions on revision of his paper; for her expertise and for providing the tirelessly completed final revisions and edits. Vivian and Richard Pharis, who supplied most of exceptional photograph of the Lapland rosebay. III TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION –––––––––– 1 CHAPTER 7 –––––––––––––– 52 CHAPTER 15 ––––––––––––– 118 CORAL CREEK-JOB CREEK FIRST NATIONS CHAPTER 1 –––––––––––––– 2 Vivian Pharis Andy Marshall BIGHORN WILDLAND HAPTER Vivian Pharis C 8 –––––––––––––– 60 CHAPTER 16 ––––––––––––– 126 CLINE RIVER EARLY EXPLORATION Vivian Pharis BIGHORN MAPS –––––––––– 8 Joyce McCart CHAPTER 9 –––––––––––––– 66 CHAPTER 2 –––––––––––––– 14 KOOTENAY PLAINS CHAPTER 17 ––––––––––––– 134 CONSERVATION MILESTONES ECOLOGICAL RESERVE OUTFITTERS Tamaini Snaith Dorothy Dickson and Julia Cook Vivian Pharis History of Eastern Slopes Watershed Protection Early Forest Rangers by Vivian Pharis and Robert Stevenson CHAPTER 10 ––––––––––––– 72 by Robert Stevenson SIFFLEUR WILDERNESS CHAPTER 3 –––––––––––––– 22 Don Wales CHAPTER 18 ––––––––––––– 144 PANTHER CORNERS THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES Vivian Pharis CHAPTER 11 ––––––––––––– 76 Philip Clement and Alan Ernst WHITE GOAT WILDERNESS Wilderness Ethics by Don Wales CHAPTER 4 –––––––––––––– 30 Don Wales UPPER CLEARWATER GLOSSARY &REFERENCES ––– 152 Vivian Pharis CHAPTER 12 ––––––––––––– 82 GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION Importance of Wetlands and Watersheds PHOTO CREDITS –––––––––– 158 by Heinz Unger Dr. Roger Macqueen AUTHORS’ BIOGRAPHIES –––– 159 CHAPTER 5 –––––––––––––– 36 CHAPTER 13 ––––––––––––– 94 RAM HEADWATERS PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN Vivian Pharis Elaine Gordon CHAPTER 6 –––––––––––––– 44 CHAPTER 14 ––––––––––––– 104 WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY WILDLIFE OF THE BIGHORN Vivian Pharis Dr. Luigi Morgantini Birds by Rod Burns - Fish Community by Ken Zelt V INTRODUCTION Since the early 1970s I have been keenly aware of the succeeding generation must settle for an increasingly road vehicle and helicopter-assisted recreation, and treasure we have so close at hand in the unspoiled, degraded world and know the experience of the past there is increasing pressure to develop its petroleum wild and beautiful Bighorn Wildland. This is, from books and pictures only. Must the future be reserves. In addition, there have been recent increases perhaps, because I have had the privilege of satisfied with mediocrity because nothing better will in drilling, logging and off-road vehicle recreation experiencing wilderness in other parts of the world be known?” just outside its boundaries. All of this makes the both similar and vastly different from Alberta’s ecological integrity of the area increasingly Eastern Slopes Rockies. My travels abroad suggest For more than thirty years Alberta Wilderness precarious. Will the Bighorn’s future be one of that in other countries this magnificent piece of Association (AWA), other conservation groups, area continued splendour or of degradation? wilderness would be recognized for its natural values outfitters and many members of the general public and therefore coveted and protected. The words of have fought for legislated protection of the Bighorn This book has been designed and written to tell the American wilderness writer Michael Frome, in his Wildland. They have worked for many years with story of the Bighorn Wildland. It is also an invitation book Battle for Wilderness, express some of the the government in order to fulfill this dream. to become more personally involved in its destiny. I frustration I feel over the lack of official interest in Despite sustained, scientifically sound and eloquent hope that this book will create an impetus for action and understanding of the value of Alberta’s oral and written representations, our wish to have on behalf of the Bighorn so that future generations wilderness: “How much wilderness does it take to this exceptionally special place afforded real will be able to experience it as we do now. fulfill the needs of civilization? That really isn’t the protection has not been achieved. Recent decisions key question. What counts more is whether each legally open much of the Bighorn Wildland to off- Vivian Pharis 1 BIGHORN WILDLAND VIVIAN PHARIS BIGHORN1 WILDLAND Nestled along the Eastern Slopes of Alberta’s Rocky Mountains lie 4000 sq km of superb wilderness. The magnificent sweeping vistas encompass wildflower meadows, lush forested valleys and grassy ridges that contrast dramatically with snow-covered mountains. These wildlands are home to a rich tapestry of life. Wild horses roam freely with elk, bighorn sheep and grizzly bears; wolves call across wide valleys, harlequin ducks float down pristine streams and eagles hunt along the ridges. Within such a large landscape animal life can be elusive to the casual visitor, but the Bighorn will reveal its secrets to those with patience. was once included in the national parks and is an ecologically