BIGHORN WILDLAND

ALBERTA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION DISCLAIMER Those contributing to the content of this book in the area today. Place names used throughout are Wilderness Association (AWA) have conducted their research and written to the those of common usage and most are of European Box 6398, Stn. D, , AB T2P 2E1 best of their knowledge. AWA cannot claim origin. AWA understands that the Stoney Nation www.albertawilderness.ca responsibility for variance of content with the is assembling a list of aboriginal place names for views or knowledge of others. Wilderness travel is the area, but these are not yet available. not without risk. Readers are advised to seek BIGHORN WILDLAND advice, ensure that they are suitably equipped and OPYRIGHT ISBN: 0-920074-20-0 realistically assess their experience level before C 2003 venturing into the backcountry. by Alberta Wilderness Association (AWA) Printed in

Any use of the terms he/him and man/men are not All rights reserved. No part of this work Designed by: meant to exclude the female gender and are used covered by the copyright hereon may be Ball Creative & Communications generically to refer to humankind. Aboriginal and reproduced or used in any form or by any Printed by: First Nations are terms used to describe indigenous means - graphic, electronic or mechanical - Topline Printing Inc. peoples both from the distant past and those living without the written permission of AWA. ALBERTA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION BIGHORN WILDLAND

Defending Wild Alberta through Awareness and Action

Alberta Wilderness Association is the oldest wilderness conservation group in Alberta dedicated to the completion of a protected areas network and the conservation of wilderness throughout the province. Formed in 1965 in rural southwest Alberta by backcountry enthusiasts, ranchers and outfitters, AWA has grown to include a wide diversity of backgrounds and skills in its membership. With almost four decades of successes, it is known for its tenacity, memory and integrity. It is a non-profit, federally registered, charitable society with a great deal of its work being carried out by volunteers. AWA’s mission is to defend wild Alberta through awareness and action. Through this book we invite you to explore one of Alberta’s last pristine big wilderness areas and join us in standing up for its protection. It is our goal that one day our children’s children will see the Bighorn as we do, in all its wild splendour.

I

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Alberta Wilderness Association (AWA) appreciates Joyce Hildebrand capably ushered the book the colour photographs; Peter Jones for the vision and dedication of Vivian Pharis in through its final edit. The Association recognizes permission to modify, from his original work, the completing this book. Writing a book about this the many contributors who so willingly and geological map and cross-sections (Jones and magnificent wilderness has been her dream for supportively gave of their personal time and Workum 1978) appearing in Chapter 12 as many years. Vivian guided the book through its made this vision a reality. Figures 3 and 4 and for supplying the aerial view early drafts and was the primary contact with of the Brazeau Range appearing in Figure 5; and chapter contributors. She wrote several chapters AWA gratefully acknowledges generous grants Dave Sargent of G.S.C. Calgary, who digitized and assisted in the early editing of contributed from TD Friends of the Environment Figures 2 to 5. Some of the entries in the glossary pieces. Dorothy Dickson lent her expertise as an Foundation; Alberta Sport, Recreation, Parks and were modified from glossary entries in Mussieux editor for many of the chapters, and Peter Wildlife Foundation; Aurum Lodge; Mountain and Nelson (1998). Sherrington did the first critical read-through Equipment Coop, ; and the family of and edit of the entire manuscript. Dr. Herb Ray Sloan. Always remembered as an explorer, Elaine Gordon thanks Vivian Pharis for her Kariel and Pat Jackson were consultants and their interpreter and defender of wildlife, Ray would inspiration and beautiful photographs, John material regarding landmarks, geography and the have been thrilled to see this book published. Rintoul of the Alberta Natural Heritage area’s climate was incorporated throughout. AWA Information Centre for plant information, and staff coordinated development of the maps, Roger Macqueen thanks Margot McMechan, her husband, Don Gordon, for his helpful proofread, edited subsequent versions of the Vivian Pharis, Dave Sargent and Glen Stockmal suggestions. Also special thanks to Joyce Gould manuscript, researched elements of the book and for useful suggestions on revision of his paper; for her expertise and for providing the tirelessly completed final revisions and edits. Vivian and Richard Pharis, who supplied most of exceptional photograph of the Lapland rosebay.

III

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION –––––––––– 1 CHAPTER 7 –––––––––––––– 52 CHAPTER 15 ––––––––––––– 118 CORAL CREEK-JOB CREEK FIRST NATIONS CHAPTER 1 –––––––––––––– 2 Vivian Pharis Andy Marshall BIGHORN WILDLAND HAPTER Vivian Pharis C 8 –––––––––––––– 60 CHAPTER 16 ––––––––––––– 126 CLINE EARLY EXPLORATION Vivian Pharis BIGHORN MAPS –––––––––– 8 Joyce McCart CHAPTER 9 –––––––––––––– 66 CHAPTER 2 –––––––––––––– 14 KOOTENAY PLAINS CHAPTER 17 ––––––––––––– 134 CONSERVATION MILESTONES ECOLOGICAL RESERVE OUTFITTERS Tamaini Snaith Dorothy Dickson and Julia Cook Vivian Pharis History of Eastern Slopes Watershed Protection Early Forest Rangers by Vivian Pharis and Robert Stevenson CHAPTER 10 ––––––––––––– 72 by Robert Stevenson SIFFLEUR WILDERNESS CHAPTER 3 –––––––––––––– 22 Don Wales CHAPTER 18 ––––––––––––– 144 PANTHER CORNERS THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES Vivian Pharis CHAPTER 11 ––––––––––––– 76 Philip Clement and Alan Ernst WHITE GOAT WILDERNESS Wilderness Ethics by Don Wales CHAPTER 4 –––––––––––––– 30 Don Wales UPPER CLEARWATER GLOSSARY &REFERENCES ––– 152 Vivian Pharis CHAPTER 12 ––––––––––––– 82 GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION Importance of Wetlands and Watersheds PHOTO CREDITS –––––––––– 158 by Heinz Unger Dr. Roger Macqueen AUTHORS’ BIOGRAPHIES –––– 159 CHAPTER 5 –––––––––––––– 36 CHAPTER 13 ––––––––––––– 94 RAM HEADWATERS PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN Vivian Pharis Elaine Gordon

CHAPTER 6 –––––––––––––– 44 CHAPTER 14 ––––––––––––– 104 WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY WILDLIFE OF THE BIGHORN Vivian Pharis Dr. Luigi Morgantini Birds by Rod Burns - Fish Community by Ken Zelt

V

INTRODUCTION

Since the early 1970s I have been keenly aware of the succeeding generation must settle for an increasingly road vehicle and helicopter-assisted recreation, and treasure we have so close at hand in the unspoiled, degraded world and know the experience of the past there is increasing pressure to develop its petroleum wild and beautiful Bighorn Wildland. This is, from books and pictures only. Must the future be reserves. In addition, there have been recent increases perhaps, because I have had the privilege of satisfied with mediocrity because nothing better will in drilling, logging and off-road vehicle recreation experiencing wilderness in other parts of the world be known?” just outside its boundaries. All of this makes the both similar and vastly different from Alberta’s ecological integrity of the area increasingly Eastern Slopes Rockies. My travels abroad suggest For more than thirty years Alberta Wilderness precarious. Will the Bighorn’s future be one of that in other countries this magnificent piece of Association (AWA), other conservation groups, area continued splendour or of degradation? wilderness would be recognized for its natural values outfitters and many members of the general public and therefore coveted and protected. The words of have fought for legislated protection of the Bighorn This book has been designed and written to tell the American wilderness writer Michael Frome, in his Wildland. They have worked for many years with story of the Bighorn Wildland. It is also an invitation book Battle for Wilderness, express some of the the government in order to fulfill this dream. to become more personally involved in its destiny. I frustration I feel over the lack of official interest in Despite sustained, scientifically sound and eloquent hope that this book will create an impetus for action and understanding of the value of Alberta’s oral and written representations, our wish to have on behalf of the Bighorn so that future generations wilderness: “How much wilderness does it take to this exceptionally special place afforded real will be able to experience it as we do now. fulfill the needs of civilization? That really isn’t the protection has not been achieved. Recent decisions key question. What counts more is whether each legally open much of the Bighorn Wildland to off- Vivian Pharis

1 BIGHORN WILDLAND VIVIAN PHARIS BIGHORN1 WILDLAND

Nestled along the Eastern Slopes of Alberta’s lie 4000 sq km of superb wilderness. The magnificent sweeping vistas encompass wildflower meadows, lush forested valleys and grassy ridges that contrast dramatically with snow-covered mountains. These wildlands are home to a rich tapestry of life. Wild horses roam freely with elk, and grizzly bears; wolves call across wide valleys, harlequin ducks float down pristine streams and eagles hunt along the ridges.

Within such a large landscape animal life can be elusive to the casual visitor, but the Bighorn will reveal its secrets to those with patience. 4 BIGHORN WILDLAND broad, shallow, hard-bottomed fords canbefound. horses, butseveral kilometersbelow andabove, wouldnotbeasafechoiceforfording with This stretch oftheBrazeau River nearLongview Parks abut. In fact,muchof theBighorn Wildland national parks lands,just where Banff andJasper jigsaw puzzlepiece,into agapofprotected River system. The area fitsneatly, likeamissing River, oftheSouth Saskatchewan amainartery southern reaches thatdrain intotheRed Deer Saskatchewan drainage,withtheexception of area oftheBighorn iswithintheNorth diagonal.Almosttheentirenortheast-southwest Thompson Highway, bisectsthearea alonga Road liestotheeastandHighway 11,theDavid inthenorth. The North Forestry between theRed Deer River inthesouthand is about155kmlongand55wide,extending Divide, ormainrange,oftheRocky Mountains. It the Bighorn Wildland parallelstheContinental Lying onanapproximate axis, northwest-southeast T HE B IGHORN and Cirrus Mountainand Cirrus inthe White Goat Wilderness Area; Mounts McDonald andStewart Loudon, Dolomite andKentigren intheSiffleur Peaks intheClineRiver area; Mounts Siffleur, Job Creek; Cline,Resolute andthe White Goat 3000 metres Mountain includeObstruction near Bighorn. Other outstandingpeaksthatare around Cline, at3361metres, isthehighestpeakin western border withthenationalparks. Mount metres, butmostofthehigherpeaksliealong highest pointintheBighorn Rangeitselfis2556 they namedthemore outstandingpeaks. The When Europeans cametotheBighorn Wildland, our eye andtestourmettle. and wears awaythedistinctfeatures thatsoplease beforetheir aestheticperfection, erosion fillsin places liketheBighorn Wildland atthe peakof highly sculptedvistas. We are perhaps glimpsing thousandyearsin thepastfew have leftbehind we seetoday. The glaciersthathave retreated only years that ithastakentoformthelandscapesthat Wildland, discussingthehundreds ofmillions geological expeditionthrough theBighorn Geological Survey, leadsreaders onafascinating Macqueen, anemeritusscientistwithCanada’s oftheregion. Inscenery Chapter12,Dr. Roger Bighorn’s geologythatproduces themagnificent Bighorn Wildland. It isthecomplexityof associated foothills,constitutethelandscapeof The Bighorn, RamandFront Ranges,andtheir vision. to thisconservation water fortheprairies. The Bighorn area wascentral recognized asthesource of fortheirimportance years agothe watershedsoftheEasternSlopes were provincial andfederallands.Almostahundred system alongtheEasternSlopes thatincludesboth ecologically logicaladditiontoaprotected areas was onceincludedinthenationalparks andisan BIGHORN WILDLAND 5 Stewardship has been part of AWA’s Bighorn agenda Bighorn has been part of AWA’s Stewardship Lake was first cleaned. since 1972 when Pinto cleared and camps were trails 1984 to 1994, From posted with of garbage, and campsites were in place to handmade signs. Some of these remain this day. boundaries. The Bighorn and the national parks national and the The Bighorn boundaries. future. and heritage ecological a common share Gordon Elaine and author botanist Edmonton that of the plants compelling picture paints a wilderness. She beautiful but harsh in this thrive why the alpine about of the secrets some reveals on blasted thrive and nodding pink wallflower alpine poppy to find the rare talus slopes, where and why the edge of Lapland rosebay, and exotic gnarled krummholz into timberline dissolves colonies. the first peoples to know who were know don’t We but likely Wildland, call the Bighorn the lands we have mild microclimates the wildlife and relatively ice retreated since the the area drawn peoples to the digs in Archaeological ago. about 10,000 years Ranch in the upper Tinda Ha Ya vicinity of the and a survey valley River of the Deer Red prior to their flooding in 1978 Plains Kootenay both areas. indicates long and continuous use of chapter on writer Andy Marshall’s Well-known Band Wesley us that while the shows Nations First the today, the area occupies Nation of the Stoney nomadic peoples in the Bighorn earliest known migrants summer probable the Kootenay, were Thompson When David Columbia. British from to trade fur in the late 1700s, the Kootenay, arrived the In all in the area. were and Blackfoot Peigan tribes and native last two centuries, many different within been drawn to the wide valleys nations have the Bighorn. has McCart and author Joyce Historian of the first four the impressions summarized and kept the Bighorn who explored Europeans Thompson was one David diaries of their travels. in and write about the to live of the first Europeans in the late 1700s by was sent to the area land. He Company to establish a fur trade. West the North Two authors tell us about the wildlife and plants authors tell us about the wildlife and Two its as are as much a part the Bighorn of that are has studied Morgantini Luigi landscapes. Dr. and caribou on the Eastern elk bighorn sheep, us a dynamic account and gives extensively Slopes of the animals. Stories of the Bighorn’s of the lives near extinction, the of the elk from return and of the Bighorn, ghosts” mysteries of the “gray told. He and extinct bison are buffalo” its “white essential winter provides the Bighorn how shows habitat for much of the adjacent national parks’ summer habitat for are the parks wildlife and how of that wander without knowledge herds As with mountainous terrain everywhere,As with mountainous visitors for be prepared should Wildland to the Bighorn during even conditions changeable and extreme and August months of July, the most benign days can be warm, with summer, In September. 30° over sometimes reaching temperatures C, and freezing. above usually remain night temperatures days. Snow season is only about 60 The frost-free everycan be expected in and month of the year may fall to –40°winter temperatures C. As a result a wide range of of aspect and elevation, and in the mountains created are microclimates This partially accounts for the wondrous foothills. of plant and animal communities found variety drier partThe eastern, of the the area. throughout (around precipitation most of its receives Bighorn the whereas 450 mm) in the summer as rain, most of part mountainous receives more western, mm) in the winter as snow. 735 (around its moisture Wilderness Area; and Candor Peak, Tomahawk, Peak, Candor and Area; Wilderness Dormer and Barrier Rock, Warden Wapiti, Clearwater, of the Upper in the vicinity Mountains the peaks are These . and Panther Deer Red forms many of the that in the backdrop pinnacles drawn views, and they have western Bighorn’s years. than a hundred for more to the area mountaineers 6 BIGHORN WILDLAND erElo ek nteDavid Thompson Highway, anearly snowfallNear catchesAbraham Elliot Peak, Lakebefore freeze-up. onthe BIGHORN WILDLAND 7 Clamshells fossilized in limestone hold secrets of Clamshells fossilized in limestone hold secrets geological time. Dorothy Dickson and Julie Cook, all of whom all Cook, Julie and Dickson Dorothy have Bighorn, of the knowledge intimate have area that describe the nine chapters written the has Wales Don perspective. a traveller’s from Wildland, parts in travelled of the Bighorn Wilderness and Siffleur Goat White the including ski. by foot and by summer and winter, in Areas, of the Bighorn’s has seen many Dickson Dorothy Cook has a horse, and Julie the back of trails from summers on or near several live been privileged to her and Pharis Vivian Plains. the Kootenay photographed and trekked have husband, Richard, early 1970s. since the the Bighorn throughout these areas. through as they travel them now Join a to become inspired become hope that you We perhaps use this book and defender of the Bighorn adventures. own for planning your In this magnificent wilderness, there remain many remain this magnificent wilderness, there In it is still possible to escape entirely places where pace and taste the wild frontier hectic life’s from only a for adventurers that was common fare Wales, Don Pharis, Vivian ago. years hundred Mary’s words were still echoing amongst the cliffs still were words Mary’s Wilson Tom when early guides and outfitters like in began including the Bighorn Simpson and Jim 1920s, the operations. Around their commercial fishermen guiding wilderness seekers, hunters and for a number became a livelihood into the Bighorn continued in have families, some of which of hardy generations, until the the business for two or three interviewed Pharis Vivian two pioneering present. the and guide and outfitter families, the Sands of their escapades in some The stories McKenzies. of the most stunning country in the world, sometimes in truly conditions, of their adverse livelihoods tough determination to make their how few the stamina, shows have would where the land undaunted the human spirit can be when held as precious. and a way of life are After David Thompson, half a centuryThompson, passed After David Hector like James other notable explorers, before and into the area Carnegie, ventured and James impressions. their decidedly different recorded and diarist Mary Schäffer American adventurer 1905 and times between three visited the area Mary forebodingly her final visit, wrote 1907. On loss of this wilderness and the of the impending peoples. way of life of resident In 1807, after establishing a trading post at Rocky post a trading establishing 1807, after In an inexhaustible Thompson, House, Mountain canoe horse and way by fought his explorer, Plains the Kootenay and floods to deadfall through briefly establish to Pass the Howse across and then Columbia. in British a newtrading area MAPSOFTHEBIGHORN MAPS OF THE BIGHORN 39 ILDLAND W IGHORN B HE T 10 MAPS OF THE BIGHORN W APIABI - B LACKSTONE - J OB - C ORAL 4 MAPS OF THE BIGHORN 11 EADWATERS H AM - R IVER R LINE C 12 MAPS OF THE BIGHORN U PPER C LEARWATER - P ANTHER C ORNERS - S HEEP C REEK 6 MAPS OF THE BIGHORN 13 IGHORN B EGIONS OF THE R ATURAL N CONSERVATION MILESTONES TAMAINI SNAITH CONSERVATION2 MILESTONES

Alberta is currently experiencing economic growth at an unprecedented rate. A large portion of our public land has been affected by forestry, oil and gas extraction, mining, farming and urban development. As a result, Alberta’s wilderness is increasingly threatened by the degradation of natural ecosystems and the loss of biodiversity. Conservation biology provides evidence that current protected areas are not sufficient for the long-term maintenance of biodiversity and local wildlife populations. We need more protected areas, and they need to be bigger, more connected and surrounded by appropriate transition zones where compatible activities occur.

We are running out of opportunities to protect nature. As a large, unroaded and relatively pristine wilderness, the Bighorn has tremendous value for wildlife, water and backcountry recreation. To protect these values, we must keep this area free from further human disturbance. CONSERVATION MILESTONES HISTORY In 1986 the government of Alberta announced the In the 1970s and 1980s, the government of Alberta naming of the Bighorn Wildland Recreation Area. initiated regional zoning efforts to plan for This designation was a step toward fulfilling a appropriate resource allocation and the resolution of 1975 government promise to protect at least land-use conflicts. The Eastern Slopes Policy was 70 per cent of the Eastern Slopes in “a natural created at a regional scale and was based on extensive or wilderness state.” Although the area has public consultation. The highest priority was placed never been protected by legislation, the Wildland on watershed protection, and the policy declared has been reinforced over the years by a number that resource management must be consistent with of government commitments, maps and conservation and environmental protection. The publications. However, in 2001 the government of Eastern Slopes Policy provided the basis for more Alberta began to erode protection for the area by detailed, local Integrated Resource Plans (IRPs). removing it from official maps, announcing its non-existence and initiating an access Due to the high conservation value and management process that would undermine environmental sensitivity of the Bighorn, both the protective land-use policies. In the fall of 2002, the Eastern Slopes Policy and the local IRP placed

CONSERVATION MILESTONES CONSERVATION government legalized the use of motorized much of the region under the most protective recreational vehicles in the area and failed to provide category: the Prime Protection Zone. According to meaningful protection from industrial development. the Policy and the IRP, the intent of this designation is “to preserve environmentally The future of the Bighorn is uncertain, as sensitive terrain and valuable aesthetic resources.” competing interests vie for access. A number of Non-motorized backcountry recreation is large Canadian and American oil companies have encouraged in the Prime Protection Zone, but bought subsurface leases and will likely want to more intense uses such as industrial development, explore for sour gas; forest companies operate in logging and motorized recreation are prohibited. adjacent areas; off-road vehicle (ORV) and Adjacent areas were designated as Critical Wildlife snowmobile clubs are lobbying for more trails; Zones, “to protect specific fish and wildlife and environmental groups continue to demand populations by protecting ... habitat,” and protection for the Wildland. Multiple Use Zones, where more intense human use could be accommodated.

Following the creation of these policies, the government announced the creation of the Bighorn Wildland. The Wildland would formally protect the Prime Protection Zones and a small portion of Critical Wildlife Zone. However, the government failed to provide legislation for Willow species like this Salix barrattiana with its the area, leaving the Bighorn vulnerable to startlingly large catkins are common throughout future downgrading. the Bighorn. 16 CONSERVATION MILESTONES 17 LOPES S ONING Z ASTERN OLICY E P under the has been managed 1977 the Bighorn Since to resolve was created which Policy, Eastern Slopes the primaryconflicts and had land-use of objective watershed protection. the Bighorn Policy, the Eastern Slopes Under and Critical Protection as Prime is zoned Wildland Use Multiple extensive are There Zones. Wildlife Wildland. adjacent to the Zones Zone Protection Prime terrain sensitive preserve environmentally “To Intent: aesthetic resources.” and valuable prohibited. use are and ORV development Industrial Wildlife Zone Critical protecting by wildlife populations protect “To Intent: habitat that is essential to those populations.” permitted. use are and ORV development Industrial Zone Use Multiple for the management and provide “To Intent: resources, of the full range of available development for watershed while meeting long term objectives protection.” management and environmental permitted. use are and ORV development Industrial Eastern the revised from excerpted These quotations are 1984. Policy Slopes 18 CONSERVATION MILESTONES by mistand spray inearly winter. Ice ontheBighorn River, crystals nature’s formed art competitors and predators; andincreasing hunting degrading habitat; providing accessfor disturbing rangingpatterns; fragmentingand by These disturbancesleadto wildlifemortality lineardisturbances likeroadswith few andtrails. inlargeareasgrizzly bearsare onlylikely tosurvive Biologists have foundthatlargemammalssuchas paramount concern. and ORV users,accesshasbecomeanissueof to therecent encroachment ofindustrialactivity including petroleum explorationandforestry. Due industrial interests threaten theBighorn region isincreasing.intrusion Anumberofcompeting is notprotected by legislation,thethreat ofhuman industrial development. However, becausethearea the area hasseenlittlefragmentationby roads and relatively intactwildernessareas So inAlberta. far The Bighorn isoneofthelastremaining largeand C URRENT T HREATS maintained roads.” usedforrecreationof transport offofregularly Off-Road Vehicle(ORV): use ofthearea. andtoensureconstruction, responsible recreational to prevent oilandgasoperationsroad governmentAlberta tolegallyprotect the Wildland, three decades.AWA willcontinueto press the toprotectthe front theBighorn linesofefforts for Alberta Wilderness Association(AWA) hasbeenon Bighorn are becomingseriouslydamaged. and ORV ofthe destinationisworrisome,as parts seen. The area’s growing popularityasasnowmobile to monitorandcontrol thisactivityremains tobe the Prime Protection Zone. The government’s ability motorized recreational useinsensitive areas within The recent accessplanningprocess legalized within itsboundariesbeprevented. be protected by legislationandthatdevelopment increasingly thattheBighorn important Wildland the surrounding area continues,itbecomes the Bighorn Wildland. Asindustrialactivity in energy companiesforsourgasextractionwithin In recent years, thegovernment hassoldleasesto acceleration ofsoilerosion andsedimentation. processes suchasfire orwaterflow, andthe ofnatural species andhabitats,thedisruption leads todecreased biodiversity through thelossof humans. On alargerscale,accessdevelopment pressure, andconflictswith road mortality “any mechanized mode CONSERVATION MILESTONES 19 Eroding trails leading to Landslide Lake in the leading to Landslide trails Eroding declining fishery and the lake’s region and proper indicate the need for protection management for such areas. IMELINE T protection of the natural values of the Eastern Slopes. of the natural values of protection Eastern natural or will be maintained in present Region Slopes wilderness areas.” use. off-limits to industryZone, and ORV region. for the Bighorn , Policy. Slopes areas. protected Alberta’s including a map and regulations. about the area, brochure a park-like releases areas. protected in a letter to AWA. Area Recreation be formally designated. Area Recreation Wildland Wildland. inside and adjacent to the Bighorn Areas Significant Ecologically maps. it from removes and vehicles off-road policy explicitly prohibits where access into areas industrial development. in portions of the Bighorn. recreation 1974 emphasized recommends Report Conservation Authority The Environment 1975 of 70 per cent of the minimum that “a promises The Alberta government 1977 Protection Prime as designates most of the Bighorn Policy The Eastern Slopes 1981Thompson Country status, similar to David proposes The government 1986Eastern the reinforces Plan Resource Integrated River Deer -Red The 1986 as one of Bighorn maps include the and provincial publication government A 1986 and Area Recreation Wildland names the Bighorn of Forestry Minister The 1986 as one of Alberta’s includes the Bighorn publication government A 1992 Wildland of the Bighorn protection reinforces of Forestry Minister The 1993 that the Bighorn 2000 recommends Places for Special committee provincial The 1995-98 number of document a large reports A series of government-commissioned 1990s2001Wildland. subsurface sells gas leases within the Bighorn The government and is not protected Wildland that the Bighorn declares government The 2001 to plan initiates an access management planning process The government 2002 motorized and legalizes Land Zones six new Forest creates The government 20 CONSERVATION MILESTONES Rocky Mountain sheepisoneofmanyspecies ofwildlifethatfindrefuge bighorn andsuperbhabitatin the Bighorn. CONSERVATION MILESTONES 21 anagement and protection. lopes, and the provincial government lopes, and the provincial A sub-watershed basin collects flow from Jap from collects flow A sub-watershed basin Corners and carries it in the Panther Mountain basin. Such River Deer norththe major Red to as they are basins must be protected, Slopes Eastern provinces. the prairie supply across to a water integral uses. domestic, industrial and agricultural Integrated and Policy The 1979 Eastern Slopes continued to recognize Plans Resource as the priority use of the watershed protection the 1980s through However, Eastern Slopes. provincial and 1990s, both the federal and and staff in resources reduced governments m watershed research, governmentfederal The supported once a 13- on the active group member watershed research Eastern S the had a specific watershed section within gone. now Service, but both are Alberta Forest government As of 2002, the provincial upholding the principles of withdrawal from has been ominous. Policy the Eastern Slopes protection. In 1927 it was recognized that “forests 1927 it was recognized In protection. of run-off in the control factor” the greatest are water needs. waters and in supplying downstream that a continuous supply of to recognition Due policies, the quality water is fundamental to forest been largely protected have forests Eastern Slopes forests Eastern Slopes for most of the past century. the prairies supply most of the water for use across basin, River The Saskatchewan to Manitoba. the Bighorn much of its water from which derives following was designated for protection Wildland, Eastern of the federal-provincial the 1947 creation The board Conservation Board. Forest Rockies and manage Eastern was established to research so as to particularly water, natural resources, Slopes downstream balance supplies with increasing ASTERN E ATERSHED W ISTORY OF ROTECTION LOPES H S P and R. E. Stevenson Pharis Vivian by Eastern watersheds of Alberta’s The forested and particularly of the Bighorn Slopes, since the federal coveted been have Wildland, surveys of the 1880s. A 1927 government’s the regarding of Canada brochure Dominion was clear in Forest National Mountains Rocky the stating that in mountainous regions, make necessity, by primary may, use of forests subservienttimber production to watershed PANTHER CORNERS VIVIAN PHARIS PANTHER3 CORNERS

In the fall when the aspen turns an intense, luminous yellow, the complex of mountains, forests, meadows and streams known as the Panther Corners-Ya Ha Tinda is among the most strikingly beautiful scenery in Canada.

These 570 sq km provide some of the best wildlife habitat along Alberta’s Eastern Slopes and is a favoured site for horse trail riders. 24 PANTHER CORNERS In anydirection, theviewsfrom Marble Mountain are panoramic. meaning “Mountain Prairie.” High elevation Panther CornersandRed Deer River, Ya Ha Tinda The Stoney callthesubalpinegrasslandsof meet theRed Deer River. the historicCornersbefore makingafinalplungeto Barrier, Dormer andOtuskwan Peaks, andjoinat meadows. They stealawayfrom theprotection of through theFront Ranges intothe Wildland’s Dormer Rivers similarlyburstfrom thepark and Bighorn Wildland. To thesouth,Panther and the icypeaksofBanff National Park toenterthe just where theRed Deer among leaves itsbirthplace These twomassifsflanktheriver likeguardian lions Rock and Wapiti Mountain. kilometres, reaching footof west tothevery Warden plateau sweeps ingrassygrandeuracross several Tinda RanchontheRed Deer River, abroad demeanour ofthelandscapesoftens.At Ya Ha stretches offoothillsreappear, andthewhole expansive natural meadows. Gently rolling open confluence withBighorn Creek, forests give wayto joins Dogrib Creek andbefore theRed Deer’s from lower elevations. Where thePanther River Panther andRed Deer River valleys isnotvisible The dramaticallysuddenupstream wideningofthe backdrop along theBanff Park boundary. far distance,3000-metre peaksformthedominating loom incraggylayers above forested valleys. In the Upstream, thefoothillsriseinstature untilthey the scenicRed Deer River slidingpasttheirbases. crowned foothillsgreet visitorsto Ya Ha Tinda, with the Bighorn Wildland. Gentle, open-faced,forest- ofthelocalecologyandhumanusepatterns part rather thanprovincial jurisdiction,itisanintegral Although the Ya Ha Tinda Ranchisunderfederal P ANTHER C ORNERS PANTHER CORNERS 25 Looking eastward, down the Panther River from the base of Jap Mountain, with Dogrib Creek valley entering valley Creek with Dogrib Mountain, the base of Jap from River the Panther down Looking eastward, the left. from Warm chinook winds that push through the broad chinook winds that push through Warm slopes and lower from mountain passes clear snow floors, maintaining open grasslands of rough valley microclimate The rainshadow grass. fescue and June is unique for its mildness and dryness.of the area large horses and park While consistent grazing by of grasses and herbs the growth ungulates promotes overgrazing and helps to keep shrubs invading, from that is changing the is a persistent problem eliminating composition of plant communities and certain fescue. choice species, including rough past century the in has resulted over fires Curtailing of shrubsshrinking grasslands, due to the invasion brush the east of clearing to Mechanical and trees. shrub Ranch is an attempt to control Tinda Ha Ya in the allowed were clearcuts 1987 In growth. ostensibly Creek, headwaters of Bighorn protected appears that grazing. It additional winter to provide those with less elevations, only the cuts at lower in winter. grazed are snow, The natural region where open forests of aspen and of aspen forests open where region The natural as Montane. grasslands is known conifer overtake of best and most intact examples of Alberta’s Some the Panther are region this uncommon ecological Clearwater and the nearby Tinda Ha Corners-Ya grasslands and montane have Tinda’s Ha Ya valley. and humans since the ice to wildlife been attractive age. Artifacts indicate that the ancient peoples from 10,000 years. has been inhabited for nearly area been sites have 60 archaeological than More pits eagle capture traditional surveyed. Recently, near the ranch. recognized were meadows that abut and rise up adjacent slopes are slopes adjacent rise up abut and that meadows the in Here Wildland. the Bighorn of characteristic most they are Tinda, Ha Corners-Ya Panther habitat for critical and provide remarkable wildlife. overwintering 26 PANTHER CORNERS from the YafromHa road. Tinda The beautifulBighorn Falls are hike onlyashort been popularfor mostofthelastcentury. camping onthePanther’s scenicopenbencheshas bears.Informalfences asprotection from hungry canvas tents,whichtheysurround withlow electric favourite campsitesearlyintheyear, erecting large Along thePanther River, outfitters oftenclaim the Wildland. the before outside turning north, a largefire thatswept thevalley andcarriedondown In October 2001,theDogrib valley wasburnedin Red Deer River attheBighorn campground. descending Wolf Creek toeventually reach the Dogrib Creek, crossing Ribbon Flats and with cutthroat trout. Ahistorichorsetrailfollows and highelevation Ice andBarrier ,stocked recreational fishingwithintroduced brook trout, lower elevation Dormer Lake,whichisstockedfor face have become populartrails. Trails alsoleadto sides. Reclaimed coalexplorationroads thatcross its Trails ascendfrom boththePanther andRed Deer and thesplendid360-degree from views itstop. A mainattractiontohorseridersisJap Mountain regenerate, anderosion isagainaproblem. point where trailscannot theformertruck wagons. Unfortunately theirusehasgrown tothe roads have becomepopularforhorse-drawn Use Zone, offlimitstomotorized use. Today theold Corners wasdesignatedin1985asaForest Land eroded by off-road vehicles untilthePanther ForestAlberta days. Service These were heavily trails thatdatetoearlyNational Parks and Service exploration roads have replaced sometraditional . Within theCorners,resource townsite nearLakeMinnewanka andthethird, with Rivers. The firsttwotrailsconnectwithBanff park trailsalongtheDormer, Panther andRed Deer Ya Ha Tinda from thenationalpark usingexcellent Adventurers canaccessthePanther Cornersandthe development, andHeritage Trust Fund monieswere forever excluded thissensitive area from coal Corners. The passingofthe1976Coal Policy on Jap Mountain ofthePanther intheheart In 1971extensive coalexplorationwascarriedout twice excluded from, thepark. changes, thisarea of, wastwicemadepart and Rivers. andadministrative Due toboundary Corners junctionofthePanther andDormer rangers andforest wardens usedacabinatthe Rocky Mountain National Park. Bothearlypark as farback1902,whenthearea wasincludedin werehabitat anditsexceptional recognized scenery The Panther Corners’ value assuperbwildlife the Panther-Ya Ha Tinda complex. proliferation ofuseandtrailsthatisoccurringin volunteers alonewillbeabletomaintainthe admirable job. However, itcannotbeexpectedthat group of volunteers whohave beendoingan maintained by theFriends oftheEasternSlopes, a with daytriphorseriders. They are both property. Bothcampgrounds have becomepopular the Bighorn campground is insidetheranch just outside Ya Ha Tinda’s easternboundary, while campgrounds. The Eagle Creek campground is more formalBighorn andEagleCreek spotsalongtheriverconfined toafew andthe sideoftheRedOn thenorth Deer, campingis and onsteepslopesthroughout thearea. especially onpopulartrails,asalongBighorn Creek, are resulting unfortunately inincreased erosion, riding theopenrangesandmanymountaintrails loop trips. The unsurpassedscenery, thelure of up mostaccessibleslopesandvalleys, manyallowing and EagleCreek campgrounds, multipletrailslead are amagnetforhorsetrailriders.From theBighorn The opengrasslandsandslopesofthe Ya Ha Tinda PANTHER CORNERS 27 September’s aspen are nowhere more brilliant than along Dogrib Creek. It will be some time before similar will be some time before It Creek. brilliant than along Dogrib more nowhere aspen are September’s was burned fire. during the 2001 Dogrib because this area views reappear

HERE T ETTING

G the which visitors can reach by two roads are There main entrance to this part of the Bighorn Sundre from west 591 leads Highway Wildland. Road) Trunk 940 (the Forestry and Highway comes north Calgary from Edson. and south from Reserve to the Forest 591 is paved While Highway these roads where From 940 is unpaved. boundary, further can take travellers meet, local roads the follows road One Wildland. into the upstream for nine km. to a River south side of the Panther and another follows large equestrian staging area, for 25 km to River Deer the north side of the Red equestrian camps. and Eagle Creek the Bighorn Exploration for oil and gas occurred throughout the throughout oil and gas occurred for Exploration the 1950s and in Tinda Ha Corners-Ya Panther of just west and wellsite road 1960s. An abandoned wellsite can still be seen. One the ranch buildings on the east side of a valley was punched into road Wilderness Corners as late as 1983. Alberta Panther challenged drilling in this Association formally company and the area, Zone Protection Prime damage was The access without drilling. withdrew Canada, the 2001 Shell In subsequently reclaimed. primary stated in the area, leaseholder petroleum the Prime publicly that it would not drill in Deer and Red Panther the between Zone Protection road. Tinda Ha Ya of the west Rivers used to reclaim Jap Mountain’s roads and roads Mountain’s Jap to reclaim used of reclamation Unfortunately, pits. exploration not completely lands was these high-elevation the us into remind as the scars will successful, distant future. 28 PANTHER CORNERS Why Protection, Management andEnforcement Are Necessary T RASTO HREATS Lodges onperimeterthat threaten tobecomemajortourist developments • On Ya Ha Tinda Ranch,conflict between horsenumbersandwildlifeforavailable • Brush andforest encroachment ontograsslands • ORV encroachment intoprotected areas anddamagetoadjacent landsandwaterways • Industrial development onadjacentlands– oilandgas,logging,cattlegrazing • Proliferation trails ofbackcountry • Snowmobile impactiondamagetosoils,plantsandsmallmammalswintering • Snowmobile harassmentofwildlifeinnearby ScalpCreek boundary alongthenorthern • campsites ofsomebackcountry Overuse • Erosion around stagingareas andequestrianbaseleaseson Wildland boundary • anderosion Overuse causedby equestriansandhorse-drawn wagons,especiallywithina • fodder, andconsequent overgrazing under thesnow of Ya Ha Tinda Ranch hourstravelfew from stagingareas andpopularcampgrounds E COLOGICAL I NTEGRITY into medicines for the Asian market.into medicinesfortheAsian slopes inthePanther andsoldtobeground Corners gathered from Jap Mountain andneighbouring In thelast15years, thousandsofantlershave been other nearby valleys. Red Deer andPanther Rivers, ScalpCreek and huntingcamps,highupthe pack intobackcountry hunters, whooccupyroadside campgrounds or summer dayridersare replaced by elkandsheep mule deerare allsoughtafter. ComeSeptember, Tinda recreation. Trophy elk,bighornsheepand Fall huntingisahistoric Panther Corners-Ya Ha animals thatcomehere tooverwinter. bleached elkantlers,attestingtothenumberof market, theseslopeswere strewn withsun- that castantlercouldbeacommodityintheAsian habitat. Prior tothediscovery inthe late1980s creststhat are are grassedtotheirvery superb ridges withexposedsouth-andwest-facing slopes from Barrier Mountain, andotherneighbouring Jap Mountain, a2500-metre east ridgeprotruding of introduced gamefishare foundhere. species ofbirds, native bulltrout andthree species squirrels frequent thesubalpine.More than150 marmots, pikasandgolden-mantledground found inpocketsofold-growth forest, whilehoary rare . Pine andred martens squirrels are wolf, thegrizzlyandblackbear, thecougarand tail deer, andarangeofpredators, including the residents as400bighornsheep, muleandwhite- winter. They share therangewithsuchyear-round Today upto1000elkusethearea topassthe tool, untiltheybecamepoliticallyunpalatable. hunts were usedinthe1970sasaherd reduction and Jasper National Parks. Weeklong mid-winter migrate intothearea inlatefall,mainlyfrom Banff Herds aslarge2000have beenknown to elkwinterrangesinAlberta. the mostimportant The Panther Corners-Ya Ha Tinda formsoneof S UPERB H ABITAT PANTHER CORNERS 29 Vivian Pharis and her husband, Richard, have trekked and photographed throughout the Bighorn the throughout photographed and trekked have Richard, her husband, and Pharis Vivian at the Eastern Slopes in presentations both involved They were since the early 1970s. Wildland of Integrated during the 1980s in the development of these lands, and 1973 on behalf hearings in explorations into began The Pharises Wildland. Bighorn lands of the that included Plans Resource company of such in the they travelled tours. Often extended backpacking through the Bighorn with as as well Wales, Don and Ray Sloan presidents AWA former enthusiasts as fellow wilderness their built horses and slowly acquired the late 1970s the Pharises others. In and Wolf Ed Olson, Dan or nine, enough horses to comfortablypack string to eight and friends on extended themselves take of cleaning assisted in 10 years pack string also The Pharis many trails. the Bighorn’s trips over backcountry in maintaining the historic Bighorn camps and trails, and the Bighorn’s garbage from since 1994. Trail After the snows of winter melt, the grasslands of the Ya Ha Tinda become lush with native grasses and forbs. grasses become lush with native Tinda Ha Ya of the of winter melt, the grasslands After the snows ANCH R INDA T

A

H

A Park boundaries incorporated and excluded the Ya the boundaries incorporated and excluded Park again 1917 when the area times. In several Tinda Ha Park National Mountains fell within Rocky facility for jurisdiction, it became the park’s use. training and wintering horses for park breeding, Banff from Although the ranch was finally excluded between in 1930, a 1958 agreement Park National Canada and Alberta the federal government gave The province management jurisdiction for the area. for wildlife and mineral rights. became responsible the situation to the present. This remains A Stoney Nation mountain guide, William Twin William mountain guide, Nation A Stoney Brewster the well-known introduced Hunter, around area Tinda Ha Ya to the family of Banff outside was Tinda Ha Ya that time, the 1904. At Park, National Mountain the boundaries of Rocky able to establish a ranch at were and the Brewsters horses to and broke they bred the site, where supporttheir guiding and outfitting business. Y Banff and Wildland the Bighorn by Surrounded Ranch covers Tinda Ha Ya the Park, National grasslands and mixed- of hectares almost 4000 Deer along the north the Red side of wood forest horse ranch operated is the only federally It River. and train raise used to breed, in Canada and is backcountryin the horses for warden patrols and Yoho Jasper, – Banff, four mountain parks horses spend the about 180 Today, Kootenay. Tinda. Ha Ya winter at UPPER CLEARWATER VIVIAN PHARIS UPPER CLEARWATER4

North of the Panther Corners-Ya Ha Tinda complex, trails lead hikers and horse trail riders into a varied landscape of elongated open ridges, thickly forested foothills and magnificent peaks, their beauty often accented by exquisite jewel-like lakes nestled in their folds.

Glaciated valleys snake west to east through the landscape, the dominant one being the valley of the Clearwater River, whose sprawling course catches all the waters flowing from this portion of the Bighorn Wildland. 32 UPPER CLEARWATER Clearwater ForestClearwater LandUse Zone. of theBighorn boundary Wildland andUpper campground andstagingarea on theeastern approximately 15kmwest totheCutoff Creek Seven Mile Flat. This localroad takesvisitors from Highway 940,theForestry Trunk Road, at valley isCutoff Creek Road, whichcan bereached The onlyvehicle accesstotheUpper Clearwater enhance itscourse. neighbouring Panther Corners-Ya Ha Tinda the subalpinegrasslandsthatcharacterize provincially uncommon Montane ecoregion andof valley widensconsiderably, andpocketsofthe park intotheBighorn Wildland, theClearwater’s corner ofBanff National Park. Near itsexitfrom the peaks andamyriadofturquoise lakesinaremote River arisesamongstglacier-laden The Clearwater U The Clearwater’s braided stream isoneroute intotheupperClearwater Valley. PPER C LEARWATER hues ofadozen varieties ofIndian there paintbrush, hidden sidevalleys suddenly alive withthevibrant smooth limestonenotchesinto seductive poolsto venture intothem.From thatslipthrough waterfalls hold delightfulsurprisesforthose willingandableto The upperreaches ofScalp andForbidden Creeks human being. wildlife andlittlechanceofencounteringanother choice ofgentleorchallengingterrain,avariety of week ormore, experiencingincredible vistas,a maps, hardy trekkers canexplore this region fora compass orGPSandtheappropriate topographical forextendedoff-trailhiking. opportunities With a ofthe to thenorth Ya Ha Tinda Ranch,offersuperb headwaters ofScalp, Skeleton andBighorn Creeks, sense ofadventure, themanyopenridgesin For skillsanda thosewithsufficientbackcountry 300 metres to agemoflaketuckedinto aclassic valley,climbs outof theClearwater risingabout used trailtravels north. The LostGuide trail Headwaters trails,anotherwell- andClearwater About 12kmdownstream, atthejunctionof eventually totheNorth Saskatchewan River. oftheRamHeadwatersthrough theheart and adventure onahighcountry visitors north, downstream ofthe Banff Park andleads boundary valley about 1.5km. climbs outoftheClearwater Within the Wildland, thehistoricHeadwaters trail down theSiffleur River. the Pipestone River ortotheKootenay Plains to theBanff-Jasper Highway, toLakeLouisedown River.Clearwater Park trailsmaythenbefollowed ofBanffportion Park intheheadwatersof trail maybefollowed west intoawilderness park permitsobtained,theClearwater necessary If anextended triphasbeenplannedandthe both thepark andprovincial sidesofPeter’s Creek. River, totheClearwater north following routes on From upperForbidden Creek, atrailcontinues forbs growing inthefineblack shaleofthepass. that oftenfeedonthenutrient-richgrassesand Park. This isagoodplacetospotbighornrams be ahiker’s route across toDivide Creek inBanff A highpassattheheadofForbidden Creek could Forbidden Creek, ontheBanff Park boundary. road) branches west intothehighmountainsof before River, reaching theClearwater atrail(old drainage.JustCreek andintotheClearwater Tinda RanchupScalpCreek, down Skeleton abandoned explorationroad thatleadsfrom Ya Ha Bighorn Wildland. One populartrailisan the Siffleur Wilderness reaches orfurther ofthe including extendedtripsintoBanff National Park, of trails,theUpper hasmuchtooffer, Clearwater For thosewhotravel by horseorprefer thesecurity are treasures here rarely glimpsedby thehumaneye. UPPER CLEARWATER 33 The upper reaches of Scalp Creek that lie on the national park boundary are a newly boundary that lie on the national park are of Scalp Creek The upper reaches area. frolic designated snowmobile NTEGRITY I wintering wildlife small mammals to soil, plants and snow wintering under the on the eastern development boundary Wildland of the Bighorn boundary lands and motorized Land intrusions into the Forest Zone Use and heavily used trails and wagons that cause erosion large for inappropriately allow and elaborate backcountry camps • impaction damage Snowmobile • exploration and Petroleum • Logging on the eastern boundary • use on vehicle off-road Increasing • horse use on steep from Erosion • use of horse-drawn Increasing • harassment of Snowmobile HREATS TO COLOGICAL Why Protection, Management and Management Why Protection, Necessary Are Enforcement T E 34 UPPER CLEARWATER sparkle withwaterjewels liketheserock pools. The upperreaches ofScalp andForbidden Creeks wildlife harassment problems, untiltheentire unit exploration roads caused watershederosion and industry. Intensive off-road vehicle useof of theCoalPolicy, whichmeansitisoff-limitsto Zone oftheEasternSlopes Policy 1 andCategory region fallsunderthePrimeClearwater Protection seen onslopesabove ScalpCreek. Today the exploration evidenceremains tothisday, ascanbe foothills, and throughout theClearwater edge, allwere abandoned.Coalwasalsosought Although several wells were drilledontheeastern ofBanff National boundary to thevery Park. including onelinethattraverses themaindrainage seismic activitywasconductedintheClearwater, In thelate1960sandearly1970s,extensive sheep andelkbeingthemainsought-afterspecies. hunting isapopularfallactivity, withbighorn pelts, usetheClearwater,mainly pinemarten and feral horsesalsolive there. Trappers, whotake area, althoughnotinlargenumbers,andsome Grizzlies, wolves andcougarsoccurthroughout the while othersmeanderinandoutofBanff Park. the Clearwater, somebeingpermanentresidents Bighorn sheepfrequent openslopesthroughout more likelytobeseenalongvalley bottomtrails. nearby hills, deerandtheoccasionalmooseare the summer, whentheelkhave dispersedinto are elkwinterrange.In important the Clearwater horses. The openforests andvalley grasslandsof ground with accessiblewaterandgoodgrazingfor outfitter camps;mostare well locatedonhigh Within theUpper are manyold Clearwater divide are sufferingerosion from overuse. has meantthesteeptrailsonbothsidesofthis catch acutthroat trout andtoseeapicturesque lake lead intotheRamHeadwaters area. The chanceto steeply intotheRangerCreek valley, where trails the heightoflandnearlake,traildrops cirque, surrounded by LostGuide Mountain. From also beendeclared opentosnowmobile frolicking. ofBanff Parkheadwaters ontheboundary have Ranch toEagleLake.Formerly pristineScalpCreek of Ya boundary along thenorthern Ha Tinda through key elkandbighornsheepwinterrange permission, snowmobiles willeven beallowed at theScalpCreek Natural Area. With special over Skeleton Creek intotheScalpCreek drainage across 40 Mile Flats, valley and uptheClearwater snowmobilenew route wasapproved in2002 elkwinteringhabitat.A asimportant Clearwater reversed earlierprotection andrecognition ofthe New recreational decisionsin2002appeartohave Forest LandUse Zone legislationin1986. of theUpper wasputunderprotective Clearwater of afive-star hotel. of asnugcamparecomforts greater thanthose At theendofalongdayinsaddle, the UPPER CLEARWATER 35 Sensitive wetlands purify water and provide purify water and provide wetlands Sensitive essential wildlife habitat. ATERSHEDS W ETLANDS AND W MPORTANCE OF I Unger Heinz by of the wetlands the watersheds and taught us that have and research experience Intuition, climate and regional local water quality, volumes, flow important for stream are Eastern Slopes our senses and as for salving economic benefits, as well natural habitats and and precipitation, and beauty. their richness our spirits through renewing entities. unique hydrological watersheds are to the soils beneath, forested canopy the forest From in more and resulting erosion peak runoffs, preventing significantly reduces cover Forest undisturbed stream soils and healthy, Trees, the year. rates throughout and flow flows equalized and human use. high water quality for aquatic life water and ensure channels filter and river be tarns, sloughs, bogs or which may wetlands, enhanced by quality and quantity are Water off-stream effective and they provide , beaver by may be created wetlands muskegs. Such life. of plant and animal variety habitats for a great are Wetlands storage and water treatment. to watershed service Up another valuable has pinpointed forests. from research Recent mainly forest from evapotranspiration from falling inland derives of precipitation two-thirds are as ensuring water quality and quantity, as well local rain and snowfall, Providing vegetation. and appreciated. not always recognized which are important forests, economic benefits from costs of water undervalued include the avoided and wetlands Other watersheds benefits from associated with water. and tourism as the recreation as well storage and treatment, RAM HEADWATERS VIVIAN PHARIS RAM HEADWATERS5

Like the Panther Corners and Clearwater regions of the Bighorn, much of the Ram once fell under national park protection. It was excluded from the park system prior to 1930 because of possible provincial interest in extraction of the mineral resources.

Today the Ram remains an area of high aesthetic value and sensitive terrain with broad opportunities for dispersed backcountry recreation. From expansive alpine scenery, wildlife in wild settings, intimate waterfalls and water-sculpted rock pools, to a dipper’s secluded nest, the Ram abounds in natural delights. Many believe these have far greater worth than the minerals underlying portions of the area. 38 RAM HEADWATERS emerald tarns. surprisingly gentlelandscape dotted with isa oftheSouthRam The middletributary to bePrime Protected lands. off-road vehicle incursionsintowhatare supposed Headwaters hasbeenallowed todegeneratefrom places. Unfortunately, theecologyof commemorative plaquesometimes marks such along thetrailspecialto them. Anunobtrusive have chosentohave theirashesscattered atplaces ofpeoplethatasurprisingnumber won thehearts their ranges.Sites alongtheSouth Ramloophave so andwildlifeathomeon lakes, plungingwaterfalls valleys andtheircompositionofglaciers,hanging could bespentexploringeachofthree tributary idyllic camphighontheSouth RamRiver, days exquisite Onion Lake.Midway ontheloop, from an Hummingbird andOnion Creeks, andpast back inabigloopalongthetopsofCanary, Headwaters trailtotheSouth RamRiver, and equestrian stagingarea, across thehistoric packing upRangerCreek from theHummingbird “Heaven onearth” coulddescribeaweek ofhorse inAlberta. most primefalloutfittingterritory range ofgamefish.It hasareputation assomeofthe habitat forungulateanimals,largecarnivores anda subalpine terrainisrenowned foritsbeautyand Headwaters region. However, thealpineand considered thegreatest contributionfrom theRam Saskatchewan River. Watershed are services oftheNorthWildland tobecomeamajortributary snow andrain. The tworivers joinoutside the Rivers, which catchlargequantitiesofnew-fallen because itisthesource oftheNorth andSouth Ram flank oftheRamRangehasbeencalledHeadwaters exceptional aesthetics.Historically, thewestern watersheds, keywildlifehabitatsandlandsof Mountains .Here are prime terrain thatisthesouthernextensionofRocky The RamRangeisabroad swathofmountainous R AM H EADWATERS outfitter holds thenon-resident bighorn sheep growth iflandmanagementimproves. Today one historic useofthearea, andausedestinedfor longer packingtrips,isanother establishedand hunting season.Summer trailriding,especially grizzly andwolfare also soughthere during record-book trophy bighornsheep. Elk, moose, presence intheRam,anarea famousforitsmany Guided fallhuntinghasalong-established along Whiterabbit Creek, are breathtaking. of theLittlehornandBighorn, from highlands Views ofAbraham ranges Reservoirandtherugged these ridgesofferwideandenthrallingviews. yellows andsaucyscarlets.In anymonth,however, meadows offlowers indeeppurples,brilliant and movement asthewindsrippleacross vast year, theseridgesputonadazzlingshow ofcolour be reached onoldoutfittertrails.In July ofeach from the tops ofopenridges,manywhichcan The beautyoftheNorth Ramisbestappreciated recover naturally from thedamage. legislation iseffective, thearea mayover time except designatedtrails.If this oncertain Land Use Zone, whichprohibits motorized use in 2001,but2002were protected asaForest meadows andstreambeds from off-road vehicle use sustained considerabledamagetowetland have been remote wildernessenclaves. These areas The North RamRiver and Whiterabbit Creek that eventually leadsoverland to Whiterabbit Creek. junction ofNorth RamandKiskaCreek –atrail climbs west upstream from astagingarea atthe Another trailtothehighreaches oftheNorth Ram Saskatchewan River neartheBighorn . then befollowed allthewaytoNorth north continuation oftheHeadwaters trail,whichcan The North Ramregion maybereached ona RAM HEADWATERS 39 Entering the North Ram from Onion Lake, the trail breaks out into a willow-filled meadow. out into a willow-filled breaks the trail Lake, Ram Onion from the North Entering Some 600 bighorn sheep inhabit area ridges in 600 bighorn sheep inhabit area Some and the Park drifting in and out of Banff summer, goats Mountain Rocky Area. Wilderness Siffleur significant population losses in the 1960s suffered penetrated partswhen exploration roads of the their since 1969, protection Ram. Despite to historic still not recovered populations have summer below well also numbers are Elk levels. carrying use of key capacity and winter motorized Creek, habitats, especially along Hummingbird of Ram Falls, and west Lake, Kiska Creek Onion their numbers even will undoubtedly reduce in these areas sheep overwintering Bighorn further. will also suffer. Relatively remote open slopes and lush forested open slopes and remote Relatively some of are drainages within valleys richest and least disturbed Alberta’s animals still exists in the for these habitat. Refuge along Ram, tributaries of the South three of the much and through Whiterabbit Creek Ram. Canaryrugged and Hummingbird North is common grizzly habitat. It also prime are Creeks apart torn slopes extensively by to find Ram area the animals’ of bears, a result black and grizzly and vetch of sweet rhizomes for the starchy search A mother squirrel. for the occasional fat ground feeding season in and cubs may spend an entire systematically digging and eating one high valley, along its slopes. permits for the South Ram, and another holds these another Ram, and South for the permits guide outfitters Two Ram. North in the permits and one Ram, the South rides through summer trail Ram. North the landscapes of the guides in 40 RAM HEADWATERS beautiful pools sculptedintolimestonebedrock. terrain,visited by humansbecauseofitsrugged are ofthelowerOn atributary , rarely Whether the partial controls onmotorizedWhether the partial compromised, theywill takedecadestorepair. watersheds andwildlife habitatsare so affected area withintheBighorn Wildland. Some today theRamremains the mostheavilyusedand lovely landscapewasincreasingly abused, and legislation never materialized. This sensitive and forgrizzliesandfish,protectiveparticularly Resource Plan toprotect watershedsandhabitats, in theRamHeadwaters sectionoftheIntegrated steep andsensitive areas. Despite strong direction trails, andoff-trailexcursions were scarringwet, reclaimed roads hadbeenwornbackintovehicle already significantlyincreased. Previously and adjacentlands,off-road vehicle damagehad Plan, includingguidelinesformanagingtheRam Nordegg-Red Deer River Integrated Resource However, by thecompletionin1986of Whiterabbit asfullyprotected seemedassured. Prime Protection Zone. The future oftheRam- almost alloftheRam-Whiterabbitunder hearings, the1977EasternSlopes Policy placed recommendations from theEasternSlopes Kootenay Plains Ecological Reserve.Following Wilderness, andthecandidate of already protected areas –theSiffleur Heritage Trust Fund. The area abuttedanumber eastern sidehadbeenreclaimed usingAlberta’s exploration. Several exploration roads onthe causedby coalandoilgas disruption elevation land hadbeenspared majorhuman Slopes atthehearings.Much ofthehigher citizens concerned withprotecting theEastern the focusofpresentations madeby manyofthe winterrange for ungulates. important The area was summer-fall habitat.Parts were alsorecognized as considered highestqualitywildernessand the 1973EasternSlopes hearings,thearea was the Ram-Whiterabbitasaprotected Wildland at When Alberta Wilderness Associationproposed once thesource iseliminated. will healintime, Ram headwaters of the South ORV damage towetlands likethese inthe watersheds andhabitats. ability toregenerate alpineandsubalpine oftheRamwill become aclassictestofour portion Onion Lake. The Hummingbird-Canary-Onion open slopesintheRangerheadwatersandabove October 1 toApril 30aswell asfrolic areas on winter habitats,includingRangerCreek, from playgrounds inRamRiver watershedsandcritical each year. Snowmobiles are allowed broader open tooff-road vehicles fortenmonthsof protection undertheEasternSlopes Policy, are Creeks, allofwhichare zoned forhighest motorized use.Canary, Hummingbird andOnion lands have beendesignatedforcontinued vehicle use under2002legislation,otherBighorn Whiterabbit Creek are now off-limitstosummer While RangerCreek, bothRamdrainagesand will allow thearea torecover remains tobeseen. recreation thatwaslegislatedintoeffectin2002 RAM HEADWATERS 41 An old research station stands at what used to be station stands at what old research An it Today in 1960. the tongue of the Ram Glacier the rapidly away from is almost a half kilometre thawing ice pack. NTEGRITY I COLOGICAL E under the snow and noise pollution and detracting degradation, stream trailers, causing erosion, a wilderness experience from • that often pull laden vehicles off-road by the area numbers of hunters using Increasing • on steep and soft trails causing erosion and unmanaged horse use Increasing • portions into protected incursions vehicle Off-road • trail in Hummingbird/Canary/Onion/Headwaters erosion vehicle–caused Off-road • harassment and snowmobile vehicle of off-road wildlife populations because Declining • to soils, plants and small mammals wintering compaction damage Snowmobile HREATS TO T Necessary Are Enforcement and Management Why Protection, 42 RAM HEADWATERS Dwarf birchDwarf andwillow painttheforeground ofanearly Creek autumnviewofthe Ranger headwaters. RAM HEADWATERS 43 Garbage from campsites, some with more than 60 some with more campsites, from Garbage the of accumulation, was bagged throughout years period. a 10-year over Bighorn stacked for lift-out by bags of garbage were Heavy Service. Forest the Alberta ARBAGE G NTRIGUE AMONGST THE I has a history Association Wilderness Alberta backcountry of cleaning camps that goes trails and baggers garbage AWA Lake. Pinto around the area first cleaned when the Association back to 1972 a 10-year initiated Pharis Vivian in 1984 AWA’s Corners in 1983, and the Panther blitzed Bighorn. of the of the rest systematic purging length and a long history camps along its entire Ram drainage has of in the South Ranger Creek packed in before Pachal and Dianne Pharis Vivian was dirtyin 1987. and slated for cleanup use. It on foot. Camp was to follow who were for volunteers to set up a base camp long weekend the July meal drew As the evening to graze. hobbled the horses were and the creek, located midway along leaden a bank of by overhung and was soon sky became an eerie yellow to a close, the eastern and Vivian shook the ground. in Ranger Creek until the pounding That night it poured clouds. of had no chance of days and that their walking crew stuck for a matter knew they were Dianne joining them. two grubbed a mix of drizzle and sun as the abandoned seismic through The next few days were the end of the bags so heavy they could only drag them. By camp and outfitter garbage, and filled rained a bit in the night and they rode two headwaters camps. It day they had cleaned all but third a high camp in the shelter of heavy the next morning. As they approached in mist up the valley They amiss. was seemed dank and ominous. Something The atmosphere mist engulfed it. trees, plastic tarp that was filled and sagging with water. wall tent draped with a blue a canvas circled inside. out the door and a table was collapsed strewn Clothes and bedding were spoiled of the morning bagging the they decided the situation was safe and spent the rest Finally, jettisoned spurs and They had even in an awful hurry. belongings of people who had left Service was able to on the medication, the Forest information medication. From prescription the tent. Apparently and make them come back to remove owners the camp’s track down eventually so was turning bad, fall just as the weather late the previous a pair of hunters had killed an animal camp – a camp mule and fled, leaving behind an entire they had loaded it onto their one pack sinister than to find something a lot more for a while at least, the two trail riders expected where, ridge pole. the tent’s wieners hanging from a bag of rotten WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY VIVIAN PHARIS WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY6

The Wapiabi-Blackstone is the haunt of the wolf. Here, more often than elsewhere in the Bighorn, its plaintive wails may be heard between dusk and dawn. Occasionally a curious wolf will sit at a distance from a Wapiabi camp, watching the movement of campers and sometimes answering an authentic- sounding human “call of the wild.” 46 WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY series oficytarns. To theeastof Vimy Ridge, Vimy Creek arisesfrom a the mostsplendidinCanadian Rockies. Wapiabi-Blackstone, are theviews comparableto ridges suchas Vimy. From highvantages inthe Bighorn RangeandothersascendFront Range willing toexplore. Some climbtothetop of the Challenging trailscanbefoundhere too,forthose in theBighorn. intheareacamping opportunities are unsurpassed years. With orwithouthorses,theinformal troublesome forhorsesthough,especiallyinwet throughout. Areas ofmuskegcanprove roads andthere islittleelevation change for ridersbecausemanyare abandonedexploration trails, atleastingoodweather, poselittlechallenge gentlest landscapeintheBighorn. Valley bottom The Wapiabi-Blackstone isundoubtedlythe Tinda, onlyhere theyare more wildand remote. are reminiscent ofthePanther Corners-Ya Ha Wapiabi, George, Blackstone andChungoCreeks Open and grassyvalleys oftheSunkay, Vimy, mountains. straddles thedistancebetween theseparallelsetsof andsuperiortrailridingcountry stunning scenery approximately 40km.Some ofAlberta’s most peaks intothevalleys, alongadistanceof Range extendsfinger-likeridgesfrom 3000-metre rises to2500metres, whilethewesterly Front southeast. To Bighorn theeast,rugged Range wide valley systemthattrends to northwest Between twoimposingmountainrangesliesa aesthetically andgeographicallydistinctlandunit. Wildland, the Wapiabi-Blackstone formsan In corneroftheBighorn thenortheastern W B LACKSTONE APIABI - - S UNKAY least sixbringhuntersinto the area eachfall. this area forextendedsummer trailrides,andat wilderness setting.Four outfitters currently use drawn toseektrophy bighornsheep andelkina of thearea’s useoccurs inthefallwhenhuntersare Blackstone forextendedsummertrailrides.Most outfitters are increasingly usingthe Wapiabi- , hasbeengenerallylow, although summer use,withtheexception ofthearea around and peacefuldemeanour. Anotherreason isthat ofthereasonThis ispart forthearea’s wildnature hikers andhorseriders,free from off-road vehicles. Blackstone tobeusedinatraditionalmannerby FLUZ protection hasallowed the Wapiabi- wing ofFLUZ law. the EasternSlopes Policy, fallundertheprotective of theSunkay, whichare zoned asMultiple Use by motorized recreation. Even theextensive wetlands Land Use Zone (FLUZ) legislationthatprohibits been quasi-protected since1986underForest Slopes Policy, muchofthe Wapiabi-Blackstone has Despite the lackofprotection undertheEastern industrial development, includinglogging. Crescent Falls, thezoning allows forgeneral even less protected, andinalargearea around drainages oftheSunkay and Tershishner Creeks, is south endofthe Wapiabi-Blackstone, inthe atthe exploration anddevelopment. Aportion Habitat status, adesignationthatallows industrial Slopes Policy, andinsteadgiven Critical Wildlife from the Prime Protection zoning oftheEastern the surface, Wapiabi-Blackstone wasexcluded of thepossibilitynaturalgaslyingunderits doesn’t have thesamelevel ofprotection. Because Blackstone from therest ofthe Wildland –it Another feature distinguishesthe Wapiabi- WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY 47 Volunteers lay the stringers for a corduroy bridge lay the stringers for a corduroy Volunteers on the wetland a sensitive that was built over historic trail. Some years the number of blown down trees along trees down the number of blown Some years into the hundreds. well number the historic trail and chain saws to use hand saws, axes Volunteers clear the trail. RAIL T IGHORN B ISTORIC H HERE T ETTING TEWARDSHIP AND THE G of the Forestry west Gap, Wapiabi 11 or at off Highway Falls Crescent may be gained from Access A of Nordegg. of the town 18 km west about is reached turnoff Falls The Crescent Road. Trunk Falls six km to the Crescent that can be followed to a local road highway sign points west Road Forestry off the North turns west Gap Wapiabi to The road and staging area. campground This wellsite Road. it is signed as the Blackstone-Chungo where about 15 km north of Nordegg, also and Chungo Gaps Blackstone Gap. Wapiabi a further 16 km to the must be followed road access to these but vehicle leading to the boundaryWildland, old exploration roads have of the is difficult or impossible. S Service, Alberta Alberta the by Forest promoted program a trail adoption 1994, under In Bighorn of the historic 100 km of approximately maintenance Association assumed Wilderness to be equestrian trail This was the first Wapiabi-Blackstone. the heart through the of Trail of horse- the Association takes a small group in July, Each year program. adopted under the days to carry for 10 the area into on a portionassisted volunteers out work the trail. of cleaning of debris of volunteer (1984-1994) 10 years followed Trail of the Bighorn Adoption The clean-up campaign was a trails and backcountryfrom the Bighorn. campsites throughout Service, who Association and the Alberta Forest Wilderness joint undertaking Alberta between 20 approximately years, 10 In the volunteers. garbage bagged by to remove used their helicopters out. and flown gathered were tonnes of garbage They Service. Parks Service and National Alberta is at least as old as the Forest Trail The Bighorn as far north as the trail system along the Eastern Slopes jointly built, used and maintained a and the Plains the Kootenay between Trail evidence that the Bighorn is There River. Athabasca has investigation archaeological times. Although little was used in prehistoric River Athabasca It places. been found in several have gravesites Nations First Wapiabi-Blackstone, in the occurred Plains the Kootenay dispersing from bison herds peoples followed Nations that First is probable valleys. and Blackstone Wapiabi of the Sunkay, into the lush meadows 48 WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY The famousMcConnell faultstoppedhereThrust andproduced amagnificentrow ofpeaksthatborder thewest sideofthe Wapiabi River headwaters. WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY 49 The main Wapiabi stream is joined in this spreading stream Wapiabi The main the east and west. tributaries from by meadow Although little coal exploration has marred the has marred coal exploration little Although Blackstone in the drilled were wells two gas area, around Creeks and Mons of Opabin tributaries dry were were 1972. Both roads and their access Fund. Trust Heritage Alberta’s through reclaimed has the Alberta this, Despite government Wapiabi- in the leases to sell petroleum continued from pressure is increasing and there Blackstone, to drill. industry the area to re-enter that the abandoned must be warned Hikers traditional horse trails in the and exploration roads or horse use, for vehicles designed were area crossings. stream impeded by neither of which are and caution trails on all area frequent These are Even of high water. during times must be exercised especially if tryingequestrians must take care, to Rivers or Bighorn Blackstone Wapiabi, the cross should also be cautious when in flood. Equestrians should of muskeg, and under no circumstances meadows Sunkay the lower they attempt to cross to the road wellsite Creek or try to ride the Mons boggy because of the dangerously River Blackstone conditions. NTEGRITY I COLOGICAL E HREATS TO • Natural gas drilling • Natural boundaryWildland dense drilling on the eastern • Increasingly on the northern• Logging encroaching and eastern boundaries activity on the northern eastern boundaries and ORV • Increasing exemptions becoming backcountry cabins trappers exploiting ORV lodges; Trapper • wagons horse use, including • Increasing T Necessary Are and Enforcement Management Why Protection, In the last century, the feral horse has replaced the the feral horse has replaced the last century, In Wapiabi- bison as a primarywithin the herbivore the nearby that escaped from Horses Blackstone. area found the Reserve have Indian Horn Big probably basis and are hospitable on a year-round Elk of wolves. for a healthy population one reason common, although not abundant, probably are and a lack of due to consistent hunting pressure of elk suitable winter range. An examination suggests that many actually skeletons in the area to verylive old ages and finally die when their natural worn to the gum line. Several teeth are of mineral licks, such as that in the headwaters places to watch for a excellent are Creek, George of Some range of wildlife, including wild horses. most popular bighorn sheep country is Alberta’s and Bighorn found on the high slopes along the naturalists and hunters. Ranges, attracting Front Like the Panther Corners-Ya Ha Tinda, the Tinda, Ha Corners-Ya the Panther Like prehistoric of evidence shows Wapiabi-Blackstone skulls have peoples. Bison Nations First use by First as have the valleys, throughout been found a lonely vigil keeps such grave One graves. Nations In Plains. Wapiabi the highest point on atop the the are people, who of the Stoney the language the to use the lands of Nation First most recent means “grave.” wapiabi the word Bighorn, 50 WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY Sunkay Valley. Remains ofwildhorsecorrals inthelower Wapiabi Valley. The Pharis packstringmakesitswayacross the peace. Alongwithsevere winterconditions, wolves provide population control by takingfoals. roundup ofwildhorses,andsincethen thehorsesof Wapiabi-Blackstone have roamed ingreater were soldtobecomehumanandpet food.In thatrestricted 1993a law waspassedinAlberta the In earlierdaysthehorseswere rounded uptobebroken asworking stock,butin later years they begins toclimbsteeplyfrom thelower Sunkay meadows totheuppermeadows. through theforest. One dilapidatedcorralcanbeseenalongtheBighorn Trail, just where thetrail In thelower Sunkay valley, theremains ofcorralswithlongwingleadscanstillbefoundscattered During thepastcentury, wildhorseshave ofthe beenrounded upinparts Wapiabi-Blackstone. manure dotthelandscapefrom valley rock bottomtovertical faces. Such anexperienceispossibleinthe Wapiabi-Blackstone, where theterritorialpilesofstallion hobbled packhorseswhostare, transfixed andonguard, from theprotection ofagrove oftrees. especially sowhentheactiontakesplaceinasubalpinemeadow where you are camping withyour teeth barred, lashingoutwithforelegs andsnake-like necksandscreaming likebanshees. This is utterly fascinatingtowatchapairofwildstallionsfaceeachotheronhindlegs,earsflattenedand Few North Americanwildanimalscanfire thehumanimaginationlikewildhorse.It is W ILD H ORSES WAPIABI-BLACKSTONE-SUNKAY 51 The Sunkay meadows lie along the eastern edge of the Bighorn Wildland. The boggy meadows are sure to challenge even those with the longest legs! to challenge even The boggy sure are meadows Wildland. lie along the eastern edge of the Bighorn meadows The Sunkay CORAL CREEK - JOB CREEK VIVIAN PHARIS CORAL CREEK7 - JOB CREEK

Job-Coral is the wild and splendid heart of the Bighorn. Except for a segment abutting Highway 11, the Job-Coral region of the Bighorn Wildland lies in grand isolation, surrounded by , Whitegoat Wilderness and the Bighorn’s Wapiabi-Blackstone.

A trip into the area involves a major commitment of time, energy and careful planning. It is worth it though, as this is one of the last places in Alberta where wilderness can be experienced much like it was a hundred years ago. 54 CORAL CREEK - JOB CREEK Unfortunately, theyhave now beendesignated asasnowmobile playground. These verdant inalloftheRockies. ridgesneartheheadwaters oftheBighorn someofthemostspectacularscenery River form CORAL CREEK - JOB CREEK 55 The vivid colours of Upper Job Creek indicate its indicate Creek Job The vivid colours of Upper Park. mountains of Jasper to the iron-rich proximity valleys choked with massive limestone blocks, each limestone massive with choked valleys not a This is beyond. just investigation, beckoning for those lacking the timid, nor for valley it offers some of experience, but travel mountain best scenery. wildest and the Bighorn’s side trail, each main Job’s along Downstream, tributaries Some adventure. could be a day’s valley into Job that drop valleys lead into high, hanging passes, end in impossible-looking Lake. Some with which indented trails indicate the ease where between mountain goats move bighorn sheep and Wapiabi, drainages of the and the Creek Job camps Outfitter Rivers. and Littlehorn Bighorn although some are Creek, Job along scattered are of because of the fickle nature no longer useable which erupts the surface to the creek, or disappears years. places in different at different underground a renowned Beaver, for Job Lake, named Job is the mountain man and explorer, Stoney is set amongst photogenic lake. It most Bighorn’s long green peaks, where red-streaked snow-crested, horse, Job slopes fall into deep blue waters. By about seven valley, of Job ride west Lake is a day’s Creek. Wilson km along the full length of trout than a decade, fishing for cutthroat more For There dream. sweetest an angler’s Lake was in Job and in the province, was no finer fishing anywhere species-pure the chance to catch a five-pound with bright pink meat became a cutthroat the insatiable fishing magnet. Finally, sportsman’s collapse and industry the fishery’s trade triggered 1989. A the lake has been closed to anglers since Wilson the mudslide into the spawning beds at of the outlet has thwarted recovery natural Creek the outcome of but slow population. A positive of the been the recovery has closure fishery’s ecology. damaged lakeshore’s REEK C OB - J REEK C

ORAL Once back on the main trail and over Job Pass into Pass Job back on the main trail and over Once a choice can be made to proceed valley, Job although the established trail or down, upstream camps be no obvious will and there leads down worth is well a long Job this junction. Upper above in toil on foot though, to immerse yourself day’s mountains, stunning waterfalls and picturesque Before turning into the switchbacks that head out turning into the Before the Pass, to Job valley of the Coral Creek beckon the headwaters of Coral Creek of into a lake-studded alpland adventurous hikers equipped with the For beauty. incredible it is possible gear and skills for further adventure, Coral high passes at the top of several to cross within Creek to McDonald and descend Creek and Creek or into Job Wilderness, White Goat Lake. another high pass to upper Job over C the from Coral Creek, access trail is up The main just northsigned trailhead Cline River of the is so valley 11. Coral Creek Highway bridge on were crews the 1960s seismic even that rough few for the first kilometres and except deterred, Coral of roads. free the trailhead, it remains above than foot, with more by to travel is a mean route tumultuous, bolder-strewn of the 30 crossings a triathlete. and enough deadfall to tire stream on one stream would be wise to remain Hikers Camping spots of high water. bank during times upper particularly in Coral’s fairly frequent, are of grass for a good supply and most have reaches, is one of nearly 2500 metres, at Pass, horses. Job pinnacle viewpoints. Unfortunately, the Bighorn’s much worn away of passing pack strings have years the top of the pass, and the steep of the soil from has become a metre- Creek into Job down route deep trench. 56 CORAL CREEK - JOB CREEK and rough. Whisker isonfoot;theterrain above thefallsissteep falls. The rest oftheday’s exploration ofupper branch of Three Whisker Creek tumblesover acraggy About 10kmabove its junction withJob Creek, one hospitable and vehicle-free Blackstone valley atthe horse trailleaves theBrazeau andentersthemore along thisstretch. Afterapproximately 15km, the summer, theno-see-em fliescandrive horsesmad occasional muskegboghas tobecrossed. In use. The trailsare softinmanyplacesand the lines thatare now designatedforoff-road vehicle along acombinationofcuthorsetrailsandseismic Downstream, travellers are facedwithatoughday and thepriorpositioningofpickupvehicles. and theBrazeau River requires careful planning Continuing atripfrom thejunctionofJob Creek several daysoftravel tothenearest road. to Jasper National Park. Either direction means following theeastbankofBrazeau River, next be madetogoupordownstream, thistime At themouth ofJob Creek, anotherdecisionmust well would require several daysofexploring. beauty.rugged To getto know thisJob tributary whisker valley isitselfanindividual,withitsown into several “whiskers” initsupperreaches. Each Whisker. This valley comesfrom theeastandsplits enticing valley withthewhimsicalnameof Three Nearer themouthofJob Creek isanotherlong, into view. turquoise Lake break waters ofupperObstruction setsofcliffsmustbeassailedbeforeobstructive the here, astheycangonofurther. Two lesserbutstill “obstruction,” orsetofcliffs.Horses mustbetied considerable hikeorrideeven tothefirst trout on the lake’s surface. This lakerequires a lounging onitsalpineshores andby thesplashof by aherd ofplacidbighornlambsandewes a rough rock setting, asettingthatisoftensoftened LaketothewestObstruction isadiamondcastin continue. side valley explorationopportunities Downstream ofthetrailtoJob Lake,campingand of theLittlehornandBighorn Rivers. orasinvitingtolingerintheupperreachesview Coral Creeks. Few placesintheRockies are asfairof towers andsnow-clad peaks,justeastofJob and where thewatersoriginateamongstamyriadofrock highlands oftheLittlehornandBighorn Rivers, shale slopesatabout2600metres. These are the Elusive alpinepoppiesare at homehere too,onsoft and-seek withagolden-mantledground squirrel. thermals, andeven arare wolverine mayplayhide- lazily inplainview. Golden eaglescatchthe plunge andthesheep, goatsandfatmarmotsfeed strewn meadows where streams waterfalls rush, Wildland. Here are high,expansive andflower- section isthecrowningofBighorn glory Arising inthesoutheastcornerofJob-Coral crossings, and onlywhentheriver islow. attempted onlyby thoseexperiencedwithriver is achallengeforhikers,however, andshouldbe and alongNigel Creek. Crossing theBrazeau River Park, andonouttoHighway 93over Nigel Pass upstream andacross theBrazeau River intoJasper correct route canbefollowed permits,awonderful Lake. the trailtoLongview With planningandthe good campsalongtheway, suchastheonebelow to motorized recreation. Again,there are several of theBrazeaupleasant, andthispart isoff-limits Upstream, are farmore travelling andthescenery to Wapiabi Gap orCrescent Falls. trails canbefollowed withintheBighorn Wildland endofthe north Wapiabi-Blackstone. From here, CORAL CREEK - JOB CREEK 57 The headwaters of Coral Creek arise from a series of exquisite alpine tarns. a series of exquisite arise from Creek The headwaters of Coral OVELY OSEBAY L R ARE AND APLAND R L two only have Mountains Rocky Canada’s gangly white- the rhododendron, species of and its astounding little cousin, variety flowered Lapland purple Lapland rosebay. the royal tangled shrub that blooms in a is a low, rosebay right at the time of purple azalea-like cups show arctic, of Canada’s An inhabitant of snowmelt. also established in scarce this small plant is particularly in Slopes, pockets along the Eastern and most particularly in Wildland, the Bighorn Job-Coral locations throughout certain treeline Range. Front Wapiabi and the people would fail to notice this shrub Most blooms unless they happened to see its exotic of or the first week of June during the last week Lake places, as on the slopes east of Job In July. obstruction on the or on the top of the lowest is to Obstruction Lakes, Lapland rosebay route locally common but often goes unnoticed with it. amongst the heather species growing Lapland rosebay in royal purple splendour – a rare in royal Lapland rosebay seldom seen. treat 58 CORAL CREEK - JOB CREEK worth theeffort. worth Lakeisachallengetoreach,Obstruction butwell Nestled amonghighpeaksandsurrounded by cliffs, summer recreational vehicle use,theyhave recently the Littlehorn-Bighorn are officiallyoff-limitsto Although thehighlyscenicmeadows atthetopof energy andexperiencetoexplore them. surprising delightsforthosewhohave thetime, flanked by intriguingtributariesthatare fullof to atrailby slumpingsoils.Bothriver valleys are old explorationroad thatinplacesisbeingnarrowed landslide andbeginsabriskascent. The wayisan it passesthrough atightnotchmadeby arecent The valley oftheLittlehornislongandrocky before Pass intothetopreaches. It istoosteepforhorses. will beabletomakethefinalascentover Bighorn have trails suitableforhorses,althoughonlyhikers Littlehorn River. Beyond thisjunction,bothvalleys the Bighorn River upstream toitsjunctionwiththe From Crescent Falls offHighway 11,atrailfollows without value, except foritsextractable resources. an erawhenwildernesswasconsidered infiniteand minerals. The road scarswill lingerasreminders of tranquility hasbeenscarred by thesearch for exploration roads, andthisplaceofbeauty Highway 11.All,unfortunately, are theremains of Whitegoat Creek, from thewastetransfersiteoff rivers, andanotherclimbsover LittlehornPass, up Trails intothesealpine meadows ascendboth Why Protection, Management andEnforcement Are Necessary T Trail erosion, especiallyover Job Pass • Impact ofhelicoptertourismon wildernessqualitiesandonfishwildlifepopulations • Snowmobile compactiondamagetosoils,plants and smallmammalswinteringunderthesnow • Impact ofsnowmobiles onwildlife inthevalleys andhighlandsoftheLittlehornBighorn Rivers • Impact ofoff-road vehicles alongtheBrazeau River andinJasper National Park • RASTO HREATS E COLOGICAL I NTEGRITY Job-Coral andtheBighorn-Littlehorn. spectacular settingsasthoseoftheheadwaters in particular, isstillpossibleinsuchwildand otherplaceswherefew hunting,forbighornsheep seeking trophy bighornramsandelk. There are outfitters guideforeign andresident hunters generations. Several springbear outfittersandfall trail ridersandhunterstothearea fortwo association withJob-Coral andhave beenbringing McKenzie andColosimofamilieshave along extensive tours. The Sands (now retired), outfitters whoare equippedtotaketouristson Job-Coral three supports summertrail-riding atsuchtimes. Coral, andhikersmustbealert bears mayconcentratealongsuchtrailsaslower September, ripening, attheheightofbuffaloberry throughout. During late August andearly Grizzly andblackbearswolves are found however, are wellcapacity. below summercarrying in thisremote area. Elk andmoosenumbers, population ofmountaingoatsintheregion isfound population ofbighorns,andthestrongest The Job-Coral region isknown foritsvigorous over LittlehornPass. with theaccesstrailbeingup Whitegoat Creek and been designatedasageneralwinterplayground, CORAL CREEK - JOB CREEK 59 Ridges and open slopes at the top of Coral Creek provide excellent bighorn excellent sheep habitat and the haunt of isolation-seeking grizzly bears. provide Creek Ridges and open slopes at the top of Coral CLINE RIVER VIVIAN PHARIS CLINE8 RIVER

The most rugged portion of the Bighorn Wildland lies in the region of the Cline River. Bordered by the White Goat and Siffleur Wilderness Areas, Banff National Park and the , the Cline region is almost a separate entity from the rest of the Wildland.

High glaciated peaks, striking alpine lakes, abundant waterfalls, open foothills slopes and serpentine river valleys make this an especially scenic recreation area and one with a long history of use and appreciation. 62 CLINE RIVER Wildhorse Creek toward the David Thompson highway. to the2500metre saddlebefore dropping steeply into Above LandslideLakeabackpackercontinuestoascend The rewards campingintheClineRiver area ofwilderness watersLandslide Lake. includewakingtothecrystal sheer, limestonecliffs. an azure mirror circled by dark green forest against boundary, where canbeglimpsedofPinto views Lake, Creek andpastNorman Lake tothepassandpark trail climbsinaseriesofswitchbacks upNorman of themostpopularhikingtrails intothearea. This Sunset Pass trailfrom Highway 93inBanff Park is one following CataractandMcDonald Creeks. The White Goat Wilderness Area trails,suchasthose can entertheClineregion from several Siffleur and trail. Foot travellers have more choice,however. They junction ofHighway 11andthe Wildhorse Creek the otherisabouteightkm.towest, atthe trail stagingarea southoftheClineRiver bridge,and points offHighway 11.One beginsatthePinto Lake Vehicle accesstotheClineregion islimitedtotwo C LINE R IVER in Banff Park andtheSiffleur and White Goat that wandered through theseandneighbouring lands known foritsremnant herd ofrare mountaincaribou The ClinesectionoftheBighorn Wildland usedtobe added pressure ofhelicopter fishing. foot- andhorse-powered anglers and,since2000,the strapped government agency, toomuchattentionby combined effectsofunder-attentionby aresource- golden trout. Allthree are sufferingfrom the with cutthroat trout, andMichele Lakes,stockedwith smaller LandslideLakeandoftheFalls, stocked repeated innearby stockedlakes. These are themuch ofPinto Lake’sThe story collapseisbeing fishery random camping. will allow thelake’s shores torecover from decadesof current planstoreopen fishing;this thelaketosport Due totheslow populationrecovery, there are no depletion, whichforced thelake’s closure in1989. and increasing fishingpressure causedpopulation area. But whentheyare abused,allgoodthingsend, use datesatleasttotheearliestrecorded ofthe history fordecades.Firstoutfitters andprivate parties Nations of bulltrout seemedinexhaustibleandattracted recreational use.Pinto Lake’s phenomenalpopulation Traditionally, fishinghasbeenanothermajor mountaineering fraternity. metres. Such peakshave longbeenadrawtothe peaks like Whitegoat andResolute are over 3100 tallest peak,risestojustover 3300metres, andnearby attributes. Glaciated ,theBighorn’s mountaineers cametoenjoy thearea’s special continued toincrease. Hunters, fishermenand road wasupgradedtoall-weather standards, use Cline region wasrelatively high.In 1966whenthe forerunner ofHighway 11,recreational useofthe road alongtheNorth Saskatchewan, whichwasthe Even priortotheold“four-wheel drive only” forestry CLINE RIVER 63 Mt. Wilson within Banff Park and its extensive Park Banff within Wilson Mt. throughout high elevations icefields can be seen from the Cline area. NTEGRITY I COLOGICAL E HREATS TO • tourism on wilderness qualities and fish and wildlife populations of helicopter Impact • River Saskatchewan along the North tourism development Increased • on steep slopes erosion Trail • Over-fishing T Necessary Are and Enforcement Management Why Protection, come forward throughout the years, some eliminated the years, forwardcome throughout the others by and zoning Policy Slopes the Eastern by Wilderness and Siffleur Goat White of the designation and concerted in a prolonged The public, Areas. the effort, by a 1984 decision through was successful Alberta the grandiose in defeating Court of Appeals Crossing. River near Cline proposed Resort Odyssey Whitegoat Lakes 700-hectare the Today, an north Crossing, of Cline River Node Development documents as sensitive described in government area contains development, and suitable for low-impact McKenzie’s Resort, Thompson the modest David an unobtrusive Lodge, Aurum trail-riding concession, Helicopters and the Icefield ecotourism venture, for further and is available development. staging area, county was given Helicopters 1999 Icefield In mouth of the Cline to locate a base at the approval the steadily increased since then, they have River; per day and number of helicopters, number of flights These flights are dawn to dusk. flight times from and effect on wilderness recreation having a growing the region, the peace and solitude of the Cline of Jasper and the Columbia Icefields Plains Kootenay Park. National Since the 1960s, the area’s mountains have been mountains have 1960s, the area’s the Since surveyed and the for potential ski developments, for has been researched valley River Saskatchewan for each have proposals Various sites. potential resort Portions of the trails to Michele Lakes, Lake of the of the trails to Michele Portions fall into a restricted and Landslide Lake now Falls category only between that permits horse travel an are These restrictions 30. 1 and May October sections of deeply eroded recovery attempt to allow weather during wet pressure and to remove conditions. Only two main horse and foot trails traverse the Cline foot trails traverse two main horse and Only the along the north boundary, follows One region. it Lake, where to Pinto River south bank of the Cline with the trails area and wilderness connects park south of Cline River 11 staging area Highway about the Cline River The other trail leaves Crossing. climb steadily to Landslide to km. upstream, five pass before a 2500-metre This trail traverses Lake. to Creek Wildhorse descending steeply down the Landslide from A trail branches west 11. Highway and its outstanding to Lake of the Falls Trail Lake closely along An informal hiking trail follows scenery. trail takes a and a horse Creek, Waterfalls the banks of Michele to lovely the forest through longer route boundary. Park almost on the Banff Lakes, which are Wilderness Areas. Today there is scant evidence of the evidence is scant there Today Areas. Wilderness Cline of the Parts the region. in beast anywhere noble are Cataract Pass, Lake and Pinto including region, sheep make Bighorn goat ranges. key mountain their and grassy slopes Lake and other high Landslide have and black bears homes. Grizzly summer Lake, vicinity of Pinto the frequented traditionally along the lake’s vegetation because of lush probably outlet. the lake’s from and meals of bull trout shores on local helicopter traffic The effect of increasing to be assessed. wildlife has yet 64 CLINE RIVER order torehabilitate. should beofficiallyclosedfor at leastfive years in campfirethan adozen scars.Acamplikethis exotic weed from thissite.Thesitecontainsmore 2003 AWA several pulledandburned of armloads standing trees are sufferingfrom root damage.In tied totrees forextendedperiods.Forty-seven Wapiabi Creeks shows severe damagefrom horses An oldhorsecampatthejunctionof Vimy and used forextended periods,supplementalfeed that for maintainingthesesites. When suchcampsare them by theForest and theyare Service, responsible campsthatare assignedto permanent backcountry Established outfittersoften have favourite semi- basis inorder toallow rehabilitation. need managementattentionandclosure onarotating damage from horseslefttiedtotrees. Such camps growth, aproliferation offire rings and tree root sites, however, doshow soilcompaction,weed for theinevitablewoodcutting.Other backcountry Some oftheseshow remarkably littledamageexcept Nations peopleshave usedthemforalongertime. continuously forthepast100years andpossiblyFirst have usedsomehorsecampsintheBighorn sites backpackersmightchoose.Indeed, Europeans valley bottom sitesthatare oftenlesssensitive than Generally, horsecamps are locatedinlower elevation trailsdownnew steepslopes. trails andtoavoid cuttingswitchbacksandindenting Corners. Care mustbetakentokeephorsessingle the vicinityof Ya Ha Tinda RanchandthePanther andPantherthe Clearwater Cornerstrailheadsandin junction oftheRamandHummingbird Creeks, at favourite campsites, suchasHummingbird atthe problems are withinaday’s rideoftrailheadsand are notbeingadequatelyaddressed. Most such oftheBighornmanagement problems inparts and proliferation anderosion are becomingmajor cognizant oftheirimpactonthelandscape. Trail use increases, equestrianstoo,mustbecomemore backpacking inhighelevation, sensitive sites.Ashorse In Chapter18,Don Wales describeslow impact OF R DCN THE EDUCING H ORSE U SE I MPACT Common Sense Horse Use: reduce theneedtopackinhorsefeed. habitat andgrazingsitesforrecreational useandto need toreturn toprescribed fire managementof overgrown birch andwillow. withdwarf There isa grazing sitesassociatedwitholdhorsecampsare now largely suppressed, andmuchoftheopenvalley campsite grazingwithfire. Today, however, fire is reputed tohave managedwildlifehabitatandtheir around their traditionalcamp. Outfitters, too,are create goodgrazingforbothwildlifeandhorses First Nations peopleswouldhave freely usedfire to forage isalimitingfactorforhorsecamps.In thepast, that establishthemselves. The availability ofnatural may behauledorairliftedincanbringexotic weeds Pick andburn anyweeds andbringonlyweed- • Pack out allnon-burnablegarbage. • Keep horsenumberstoaminimum.Generally • Camponlyanightortwoinonespotand • Rehabilitate your fire ringby removing rocks, • • Avoid proliferation offire rings–usegas Bring ashovel toscattermanure. • Campbackfrom creek banks. • Avoid tyinghorsestotrees, especiallyfor • Keep toestablishedtrails,avoid braiding, • free supplemental feed. weeklong trip. one packhorseisadequate per rider, fora leave thesitecleanandtidy. growth.new couple ofscoopsorganicsoiltoencourage couple ofscoopsmineralsoilfollowed by a scattering cold,wet ashesandthrowing ona stoves orcleanupand reuse establishedrings. between trees orallow horsestoroam onhobbles. extended periods.Use highpicketlines cutting switchbacksandtrailproliferation. CLINE RIVER 65 Mountaineers have been drawn to the challenging Cline River area peaks since the early 1900s. The area contains the Bighorn’s highest peaks. contains the Bighorn’s The area 1900s. since the early peaks area to the challenging Cline River been drawn have Mountaineers KOOTENAY PLAINS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE DOROTHY DICKSON & JULIA COOK KOOTENAY PLAINS9 ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

A long natural corridor extends from the Columbia River drainage in , over the on the Continental Divide, to the North Saskatchewan River drainage in Alberta. The trail along its length passes spectacular mountain scenery, glaciated valleys, turbulent streams and dark forests, but the landscape changes abruptly where the North Saskatchewan River emerges from the confines of the Front Ranges of the Rockies about 14 km from the eastern gate of Banff National Park. Here the river flows out into the broad, grassy Kootenay Plains of the Montane ecoregion. 68 KOOTENAY PLAINS RESERVE broad andfascinatingstudyofNature’s artwork. Plains. The wintericeonAbraham Lakeprovides a The fourseasonsbringfresh delightstotheKootenay mammals, especially bison,elkandmule deer. been amajor winteringground forhoofed humans. For thousandsofyears thegrasslands have east hasbeenreasonably easy forbothwildlifeand access totheKootenay Plains from bothwest and Since thecuttingoftrailsinforests tothe east, vulnerable topsoilinplace. andcreeping juniperhelptoholdthe bearberry Low-growingcommon shrubs. speciessuchas andwildroses areareas. Canadabuffaloberry stands ofaspen,butwillows grow insomeriparian limber pine.Because itissodry, there are few Douglasspruce, firand,onexposedrocky ledges, trees are mostlylodgepolepinewithsomewhite such aspussytoe,strawberry, yarrow andaster. The grasses are interspersedby typicalmontaneforbs grown here butwere destroyed by overgrazing. The is speculatedthatfescuegrassesmayoncehave wheatgrass ratherthanfescue.Itgrass andnorthern south, thegrassesheregrasslands further are June to windandwatererosion. Unlike inthemontane susceptible the region andvery isalmostdesert-like Prairie.” With itsthin,fragilelayer ofsandysoil, the area wasKadoona Tinda, meaningthe“Windy the Howse Pass. Indeed, theaboriginalnamefor dried here by thechinookwindsblowing through interspersed withstandsoftrees iswarmedand The typicalMontane ecosystemofgrasslands Wildland, ends. area, oftheBighorn theonlyoneinthispart land becomesheavilyforested, andtheMontane Saskatchewan River valley continues eastward, the ClineRiver region.rugged AstheNorth andwest,Ram River the drainageandtothenorth To thesouthandeastofPlains istheNorth E K COLOGICAL OOTENAY P LAINS R ESERVE bordered by theremnants ofthe Plains. once were. Now you willseeafloodedvalley sight ofgrasslandsteeming withwildlifeasthey differentbeautiful andinteresting, from is very the seasons. But whatyou seetoday, whilestill explore andenjoy theKootenay Plains inall boundary, manymore peoplehave beenableto was paved andextendedtotheBanff Park Since Highway 11,theDavid Thompson Highway, number ofvisitorscontinuestoincrease tothisday. visit theKootenay Plains forrecreation, andthe and roads crept westward, comingto peoplestarted andminingenterprisesmultiplied posts, forestry other speciesgreatly reduced innumber. Astrading hunting pressure thatthebisonwere extirpatedand wild wintergrazers, whichwere undersuchheavy Horses were addedtotheteemingpopulationsof remains unfulfilled. in 1910were promised landthere –apromise that who eventually settledpermanentlyinthearea and lucrative fur tradeforthemselves. It wastheStoneys British Columbiatokeepthegoodhuntingand horses andguns,drove alltheKootenays backinto FirstAlberta-based Nations, by now suppliedwith inhabitants theyfoundthere. However, various in theearly1800s,theynamedPlains afterthe Thompson andJoseph Howse, camefrom theeast the winter. When thefurtraders,suchasDavid and othersfrom British Columbia joinedthemfor Many Kootenay peoplelived ontheEasternSlopes, wolves and humans. were naturallyfollowed by theirpredators, mainly routes tohigherland,asthecongregations ofprey stayed onthefringestobeclosetheirescape areas, whilethebighornsheepandmountaingoats Groups ofwoodlandcaribouusedthewooded KOOTENAY PLAINS RESERVE 69 A three-toed woodpecker feeds his noisy brood in a cavity in one of the Kootenay Plain’s old trees. The Plains old trees. Plain’s in a cavity in one of the Kootenay woodpecker feeds his noisy brood A three-toed fir on the of animal and plant species, including one of the largest stands of Douglas home to a wide range are Slopes. Eastern Many trails start from Highway 11 and lead trails start Highway from Many rugged to more Plains the Kootenay through described in trail country well these are beyond; is also much of there However, guides for the area. easily accessible within the Plains interest on the south side Whirlpool Point At themselves. limber pines cling to the rocky, of the road, least at are of these trees ledges. Many windswept estimated to be nearer old and some are 400 years and constant growth Their slow 1000 years. winds cause them to the prevailing from pressure the very from slowly spiral, turning very, in a grow The eastern winds. of the mono-directional force has one of the largest natural end of the Plains This is fir on the Eastern Slopes. stands of Douglas to identify – just look one of the easiest evergreens between sticking out from for the “mouse-tails” the scales of the large cones. While the reservoir has flooded valuable wildlife While the reservoir valuable has flooded from Nations the First grazing lands and displaced it has once promised, they were much of the land mountains enhanced the views of the surrounding of the water and the colours the ever-changing by that formations rock of the convoluted reflections as was once is not, however, It it. above tower because of the hoped, of use for recreation is too sterile to winds, and the shoreline dangerous habitat for wildlife because of the create fluctuating water levels. Construction of the near the Dam Construction Bighorn of the North and Bighorn of the confluence for was completed Rivers Saskatchewan The long reservoir was in 1974. Abraham, Lake after Silas named Abraham who lived family, Abraham Stoney of the patriarch and whose years than 150 for more on the Plains under the water. now are homes and gravesites 70 KOOTENAY PLAINS RESERVE generations ofFirst Nations peoples. ’s flooding,thePlains over-wintered largeherds hometo ofwildlifeand waspermanent Antlers shedontheKootenay Plains testifytothearea’s useby ungulatesinthefallandwinter. Prior to showing thetrailsbeyond. west ofNordegg andhasagoodon-sitemap of theroad. The parking area and accessis62km oftheReservelieseast included, butthemajorpart the low landalongbothsidesofthehighwayis Plains asanEcological Reservein1987.Most of designated muchofwhatislefttheKootenay and cherished,theprovincial government found elsewhere, makingitaplacetobeprotected areas inthefoothillsandthatithasfeatures not Recognizing montane thatthisisoneofthefew above thatnever freeze. cliff facefrom theslightlysulphurous springs “ice-fall” formedby smallseeps andtricklesonthe the winter. This isnotafrozen butan waterfall Cavalcade Group Camp, alargeice-wallformsin for traditionalsundanceceremonies. Near the see theFirst Nations sweat lodges,built eachyear Two O’clockRidgeorstayontheeasyslopesand You cancontinueupward tothealpinezone on wildflowers andnestingbirds inearlysummer. overdelightful views thevalley andmany exploring,with behind thecampground isworth better bethere before twoo’clock! The ridge waterflow –soifyou wanttogetacross you had glacier thatfeedsittomelt,givingthecreek agood afternoon, thesunhascausededgeof campground namedafterit.However, by mid- waterflow inthiscreek, eastofthe whichruns morning inthesummerthere islittleorno Creek gotitsoddnamebecauseearlyinthe accessed from thecampgrounds. Two O’clock Interesting features ofthehighwaycanbe north KOOTENAY PLAINS RESERVE 71 NTEGRITY I COLOGICAL E HREATS TO • Overuse areas of the fragile • Reserve in the Ecological with regulations Non-compliance • regulations the effects of use and enforce to monitor Lack of financial and human resources • Plains of the Kootenay a tourist operation east helicopters from Overflightsby T Necessary Are Enforcement and Management Why Protection, Before damming and flooding of the North Saskatchewan River, the Kootenay Plains was one of Alberta’s most was one of Alberta’s Plains the Kootenay River, Saskatchewan damming and flooding of the North Before is Montane is left of the area’s most of what Today ecological region. Montane outstanding examples of the rare Reserve. as an Ecological protected The Kootenay Plains may hold just a small fragment Plains The Kootenay but they Wildland, of the wonders of the Bighorn of our natural and human historyhold more than go in this precious you Wherever most other areas. for the past and with respect lightly, place, tread with hope of preserving it for the future. The most popular hiking trail is to the Siffleur The most popular hiking trail is to different several takes visitors through It Falls. flowers, The zone. typical of the Montane areas of spring, and the especially the calypso orchids including bluebirds than 60 species of birds, more and species of both swallows and several The trail to see and hear. a joy woodpeckers, are the Siffleur passes near the spectacular gorge of a “whistlers,” named after the siffleurs, or River, nickname for the hoary marmots found in the themselves The Falls mountains of its headwaters. Visitors dangerous. but deceptively picturesque are wise to stay behind the barriers. are The primaryThe is Reserve of the Ecological purpose the Montane of features the natural to protect long had the region because However, ecosystem. such and – unlike most for recreation been used much used isolated – was more reserves, which are strictly regulated it was decided that the public, by be biking would and mountain horse riding designated established trails were Three permitted. to access mainly to provide for these uses, leading further traditional routes south. being abused these privileges are Unfortunately, is to the fragile soil cover and off-trail damage at all, it will plants recover the native If increasing. opportunistic and take many years, plants such as disturbed areas. the often invade chickweed SIFFLEUR WILDERNESS DON WALES SIFFLEUR10 WILDERNESS

At 254 sq km, the is small by wilderness standards, but it contains some of the most spectacular scenery in the Eastern Slopes. Like the White Goat and Ghost Wilderness Areas, it is protected by the Wilderness Areas, Ecological Reserves and Natural Areas Act, which prohibits vehicle access, helicopter access, hunting, fishing and trapping. It is a “benchmark” wilderness or “living museum,” where collecting plants, fossils and artifacts is illegal without a permit. Much of the Siffleur is more than 2800 metres above sea level, and it contains the headwaters of Porcupine, Escarpment, Loudan and Spreading Creeks. The bisects this wilderness area from its headwaters at Pipestone and Dolomite Passes. 74 SIFFLEUR WILDERNESS bushwhacked up ataxingroute from Highway 93. Once inSpreading Creek meadows, thetowers ofMt.Murchison reward hikerswhohave scrambled and listed here are inascendingorder ofdifficulty. establishedtrails. few points The suggestedentry due todeadfallanderosion, leavingthearea with 1960s. Most oftheselineshave becomeimpassable lines were cutthrough valleys inthe1950sand trails were abandonedwhenseismicexploration of accessare simplyroutes. Some originalhorse trails canbeblockedwithdeadfall,andothermeans fitness andknowledge ofwildernesstravel. Existing requiring several daysofhiking,ahighlevel of Fortunately fortheSiffleur, accessisdifficult, Dolomite Creek andtheSiffleur River. isneartheconfluenceof of thesouthernboundary Whiterabbit Creek drainage;andanindistinctpart rangeofpeaksseparating Siffleurrugged from the the North Saskatchewan River; theeastby a lineapproximately fourkmsouthfromimaginary by an thenorth easternboundary; Banff’s The west andmuchofthesouthare boundedby The Siffleur’s boundariesare relatively indistinct. S Probably theeasiestaccessisover apedestrian • IFFLEUR valley bottomwithrestricted views. deadfall. This accesstotheSiffleur isentirely route isreported tobedifficultbecauseof headwaters ofEscarpment Creek, butthis suggest itispossibletoaccessthelakesat Porcupine Lakeandbeyond. Guidebooks 18 kmfrom thetrailhead,atrailbranchesto dodging duetoa1974forest fire. At about degenerates intoanexercise indeadfall logging road paralleltotheSiffleur River soon parking lotonHighway 11.Anabandoned Saskatchewan onatrailfrom theSiffleur Falls swing bridge,whichcrosses theNorth W ILDERNESS SIFFLEUR WILDERNESS 75 is reached in an easy day hike across in is reached Falls Siffleur Plains. the Kootenay Lake provides perhaps the best overview the perhaps of the provides Lake views west as breathtaking as well Siffleur, eastern jewels of and the turquoise Peak to Howse Lakes. Chephren and Cirque Mistaya, and due foot travel, permit only Areas Wilderness is required. backpacking involved, to the distances of protection with disposal of human wastes, Care impact camping are and minimum water sources Fires fragile environment. this essential to protect as for emergency purposes, discouraged except are in the alpine. Following is at a premium firewood rules,these simple common-sense a well-prepared backcountry hiker can expect a wilderness to none. experience second Vistas of towered peaks, including Chephren and Chephren peaks, including of towered Vistas a fall camp in Spreading unfold from Murchison, at the heart of the Siffleur. meadows Creek Highway 93 is up Totem Creek. The trailhead Creek. Totem 93 is up Highway a tough Lakes and involves Waterfowl is near pass a high tight bushwhack and scramble over Creek. of Spreading into the alpine meadows Creek Totem A truly connects alpine route 93, and a also off Highway Creek, with Noyes to take you will steep descent eastward Lake. Porcupine begins at Highway 93 and follows a trail past a trail follows 93 and at Highway begins Dolomite Lakes, over and Katharine Helen Lake to the south Isabella and past Pass all the way but the This trail is good boundary. and is sometimes with grizzlies is popular area a the way requires camp along To closed. permit. A longer wilderness national park would be 29 km from the south access from alternate Pass; Pipestone Lake Louise over Lakes are Lakes or Devon Fish from routes trail guides. Park in Banff described in detail • from exhausting route A spectacular but • the south from access spectacular A more A recommended area to linger is the campsite at area A recommended Lake, but for a trulyexperience alpine Porcupine and to see the very beautiful Siffleur, best of the The meadows. Creek’s nothing beats Spreading alpine lakes, exquisite access features Creek Totem and its Chephren a spectacular view of Mount and the hanging glaciers on , massive could be Days Murchison. backside of Mount and exploring the alpine flowers spent enjoying ridges, waterfalls Bighorn nearby and canyons. one of the be and it may well found here sheep are of the mountain caribou. I last southern refuges but I am sure seen grizzly sign here, never have White Goat, life, as in the Bird they pass through. persist here Snowfields is typical of alpine areas. if they melt at all. A rough into late summer, well or east to Porcupine Creek to Noyes alpine route WHITE GOAT WILDERNESS DON WALES WHITE GOAT11 WILDERNESS

Quietly tucked along the eastern boundary of Banff National Park and the southern boundary of Jasper National Park is one of Canada’s best kept wilderness secrets: the White Goat Wilderness. This benchmark wilderness area was protected by the Provincial Wilderness Areas Act in 1960, at which time it comprised 1259 sq km. In 1971, when the Act was changed, it was reduced in size to 445 sq km.

Much of the area removed is described in the chapters on Job–Coral and the Cline River. 78 WHITE GOAT WILDERNESS boundary peaks as , peaks asCirrus shownboundary here. The Cataract Creek trail thatbisectsthewestern halfofthe White Goat passesby suchnotableBanff Park difficulty are theseaccessroutes: experience initself. Listedinincreasing order of ofthe Getting to theheart White Goat isan Cline River, thesouthernboundary. Creek constitutestheeasternboundary, andthe separates CoralCreek drainagefrom McDonald Jasper National Park. lineofpeaksthat Arugged istheupperBrazeau boundary River and northern national parks peaksofover 3000metres. The isaseriesofspectacular The western boundary map andcompass. wilderness travel androute-finding skillsusing involving a highlevel offitness,experiencein protected by itsisolation.Access isdifficult, bans onhunting,fishingandtrapping.It isalso aircraft andhorse,whileitswildlifeisprotected by by vehicles,legislation, whichprohibits entry White Goat’s wildernessvalues are protected by W For atantalizingtasteofthewestern Cataract • Creek andMcDonald Creek. be problematic, withdifficultfords ofCoral the ClineRiver toPinto Lake. This route can River Crossing onHighway 11 andtravels up Goat’s from Cline starts southernboundary route ofthe toalessspectacularview White hiking andanelevation gainof595metres. A to CataractPass, butinvolves some off-trail Highway 93andtraverses toNigel Pass andon alternate accesstothesamepointleaves Creek to thealpinemeadows ofClinePass. An Lake, apassable13-kmtrailparallelsCataract Lake, Sunset Pass andPinto Lake.From Pinto established trailsfrom Highway 93toNorman Creek ofthe portion White Goat, take HITE G OAT W ILDERNESS WHITE GOAT WILDERNESS 79 Afternoon Peak shown in the distance is an explorer’s landmark at the north end of the White Goat. After an White Goat. at the north landmark end of the an explorer’s in the distance is shown Afternoon Peak area. Wilderness White Goat much of the offers views over easy climb up, the crown access is over a high ridge east of Cline Pass. A A a high ridge east of Cline Pass. access is over because bit of confusion may exist here this rugged ridge to topographical maps show pass is actually the while the be Cline Pass, the Cataract Creek height of land between running northdrainage and the creek into the ascends from the route Regardless, Brazeau. left to Cataract Pass, Pass 93 to Nigel Highway a heart-pounding by followed to Cline Pass, But ridge top. grind up to the 2700-metre The descent is not much easier, what a view! slopes, huge fields of ankle- with steep snow surprising cliff bands. turning talus and several Creek, of McDonald fork This is the western of the Lakes. Valley often called the the White Goat, you must access the must access you White Goat, the easiest The Creek. of McDonald headwaters north, the to be from way appears taking Pass 93 to Nigel Highway trails from excellent Points to Four River Brazeau the and down wilderness (a park in Jasper Campground routes several here, From permit is required). They Afternoon Peak. either side of traverse River substantial Brazeau the fording involve on game trails to a 2710- and bushwacking of the middle fork col overlooking metre An alternate access, Creek. McDonald David Alberta’s Hiking mentioned in Thompson Country, ascends McDonald but this 44-km the Cline River from Creek a lot of and difficult fords has several route not tough bushwhacking, and is therefore recommended. • A truly spectacular but physically demanding • true the experience of qualities wilderness To 80 WHITE GOAT WILDERNESS They are togetthem. well theeffort worth The Valley oftheLakesincludesmore different exhibitingadozen tarns thanadozen coloursandotherdistinctive characteris tics. WHITEGOAT WILDERNESS 81 Mt. McDonald on the Bighorn’s northwestern on the Bighorn’s Mt. McDonald boundary dominates and defines the northern White Goat. boundary of the Mount McDonald. Views of the Columbia of Views McDonald. Mount and peaks north and of expanse in Jasper Icefield spectacular. are White Goat south in off-limits to horses, has been this area Although signs of these fishing and trapping, hunting, of cabin at the fork including an old remain, of the Cline Michael Trapper Creek. McDonald of built it. Some Company may have Bay Hudson’s horse been forged by to have the trails appear is There wildlife. kept open by now traffic and are camp with its characteristic the odd old outfitter midden of rusted and whisky bottles. bean cans and Stoney Peigan the Kootenay, Historically Later visitors visited this area. have Nations the Earl of Carnegie in 1859, included James A. P. in 1892, geology professor Southesk Mary Coleman in 1902 and the adventurous century. Schäffer at the beginning of the twentieth as the White Goat to maintain the order In encouraged to wilderness jewel it is, visitors are guidelines, no-trace wilderness travel follow water bodies, properly camping away from stoves disposing of human waste, using backpacking national and packing out garbage. As in adjoining White the nothing can legally be taken from parks, photographs and fond memories. except Goat involves a long climb from Job Lake past a Lake Job from long climb a involves a high col over tarns and series of spectacular The Creek. of McDonald fork to the east The somewhatdescent is and hazardous. steep unnerving. can be especially scree moving • heart. faint of for the access is not A final It The eastern fork is gentler. Near treeline is an old treeline Near is gentler. The eastern fork base which makes an excellent camp, outfitter’s the energetic, a route For which to explore. from alpine past waterfalls and two frozen up the creek summit of to the 3162-metre tarns takes you The middle fork of McDonald Creek is an Creek of McDonald The middle fork deeply incised by meadow willow extensive and is home to tributaries of the main creek of bighorn sheep. moose, grizzly and large herds patches on the slopes of Afternoon Peak, snow On mountain caribou may still be spotted. rare a flat spot to be Camping is difficult, with barely tangles. found among the willow Once you get there it is spectacular! The western it is spectacular! get there you Once lakes and a dozen over of the Lakes features Valley tarns, some crystalsome clear and brilliant blue, and some glacial run-off, from perpetually silted is Camping into summer. well frozen that remain is which it lake, from at the lowest recommended day exploring the upper lakes. possible to spend a cliff bands the valley’s goats frequent Mountain rugged is dominated by Mount and the whole area the heart is a massive of the valley In Stewart. finger of a rock cairn, made with skill and care, Who made it is a Stewart. pointing to Mount south contains to the An adjoining valley mystery. Lake, which has a trail meeting it, McDonald valley. Creek McDonald arising from apparently of the Lakes appears to be “grizzly Valley The the amount of bear scat in the central,” judging by area. GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION ROGER MACQUEEN, PH.D. GEOLOGY12 & EXPLORATION

Earth scientists know much about the geology of the Bighorn Wildland region from more than a hundred years of geological mapping* and more recently, from seismic studies and from drilling for oil and natural gas in the foothills.

It’s the geology of the Bighorn Wildland that is responsible for the magnificent scenery of today. ROGER MACQUEEN, PH.D. GEOLOGY12 & EXPLORATION

Earth scientists know much about the geology of the Bighorn Wildland region from more than a hundred years of geological mapping* and more recently, from seismic studies and from drilling for oil and natural gas in the foothills.

It’s the geology of the Bighorn Wildland that is responsible for the magnificent scenery of today. 84 GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION slopes, whichare inclinedbeddingplanesexposedby erosion. by lessresistant-weathering brown andorange Mesozoic rocks inleftofphoto. Note thewell-developed dip West-dipping andresistant-weathering gray Upper Paleozoic carbonatesfrom righttocentre ofphoto, overlain Figure 1.Rocky Mountain Front Ranges. View inLongviewLakesarea, north northwest Bighorn Wildland. * References at theendofbook. andtermsinbluetextare defined brieflyinaglossary in Alberta a finegeneralreference writtenfornon-specialistsentitledAtraveller’s guidetogeological wonders Readers canlearnmore includingthatoftheBighorn aboutthegeologyofAlberta, Wildland, in (Mussieux andNelson, 1998). made upofsandstone, The younger, overlying wedge isthe mountain-building intheregion. During little thislongtimeperiod,there wasvery approximately 150millionyears ago(Fig. 2). one billionyears agotomid-Mesozoic time range inagefrom Proterozoic time approximately km thickwhendeposited.Platform wedge rocks reconstructions suggestthatitwasmore thanthree complete platformwedge inoneplace,but beside theancientcontinent. We don’t seethe 1), whichwere depositedinshallow basinsonand limestones anddolomites–withsome rocks are mainlycarbonaterocks Canadian Shield metamorphic rocks two, theplatformwedge , overliesigneous rock called “sedimentary wedges.” The olderofthe rocks forming twoquitedifferent thicknessesof basin totheeast,are mostlylayered sedimentary The Rockies, andtheundisturbedsedimentary deformed western edge. Yukon toMexico andmakingupNorth America’s Mountain Belt bigger –thehugeNorth AmericanCordilleran They are however, alsopart, ofsomethingmuch BasinSedimentary western edgeofthe the crumpled The CanadianRocky Mountains andFoothills are G ago. Again,we don’t seethe completeclasticwedge 170 millionyears agountilabout55 million years American platefrom mid-Mesozoic timeabout the Pacific Ocean were squeezed againsttheNorth tectonic mountains resulted from compressive plate from therisingmountainrangestowest. These EOLOGY interactions inwhichtectonic platesof to the northeast. Platform wedgeto thenortheast. extending from thenorthern continuous withtheexposed that underliestheprairies. siltstone and shaleeroded Western Canada clastic wedge, shales – thatis, (Fig. and GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION 85 Figure 2. Simplified geological time scale. The geological time scale. 2. Simplified Figure Era, is divided into the Cenozoic Eon Phanerozoic time Precambrian Era. and Paleozoic Era Mesozoic and the Archean Eon is divided into the Proterozoic Archean no known are as there (not shown, Eon in years given Ages Wildland). in the Bighorn rocks dating. radiometric from derived were of the Rocky of the . The westernmost partThe westernmost the of . Front Ranges geological province province geological Ranges Front Most of the Bighorn Wildland (Figs. 3 and 4) is in 3 and (Figs. Wildland the Bighorn of Most the Mountains, except for the Blackstone-Wapiabi for the except Mountains, to the Corners northeast to the and Panther area partof the Foothills both of which are southeast, province geological Lake toward Abraham of west Wildland, Bighorn in a small part takes of the Crossing, Saskatchewan . Ranges geological province Main extends east as far as province The Foothills 3). and faulting is found (Fig. folding Cordilleran part Central of the are Foothills Wildland Bighorn and the Bow between the area Alberta Foothills, of the Central The geology Rivers. Athabasca two major west- by is controlled Alberta Foothills thrust and the dipping thrusts, the Brazeau thrust, hundred both several Creek Bighorn-Cripple in length and with displacements of up kilometres the thrust above This means that the rocks to 30 km km to the east of where about 30 moved fault have 3 and 4)! (Figs. they once were has a series of thrust- Ranges province The Front These west. faulted slices, mostly dipping to the thrust gray- slices expose platform wedge 2) (Fig. Paleozoic and Upper Middle weathering and in the upper parts,carbonate rocks Mesozoic rocks These Mesozoic of the clastic wedge. rocks so and erosion, weathering to soft and prone are of the Bighorn usually found in the valleys they are 6). (Fig. Wildland or folds. and where rocks where normal faults, : nearly 40 different formations are found are formations different : nearly 40 (Fig. 5) and synclines. (Fig. in the Bighorn Wildland region. Figure region. Wildland in the Bighorn anywhere, but likely it was more than five km thick km than five was more likely it but anywhere, many have wedges Both deposited. when formations Mountain the Rocky 3 and 4 show Figures structure major rock shows map, geological 3, a generalized including faults units and structures in the Bighorn Wildland. Their study is importantTheir in Wildland. in the Bighorn and any these rocks the origin of understanding and Mussieux they may contain. that resources information on additional (1998) provide Nelson of the Rockies. the geology and origin Most Bighorn Wildland faults are thrust faults, faults are Wildland Bighorn Most thrusts be slightly inclined to – faults that may surface, but at the earth’s steeply inclined the the surface; above commonly flatten below – – pushed, really been moved have fault rocks the below to rocks distances compared some great are Mountains Thrustfaults in the Rocky fault. for what geologists call crustal mainly responsible the effects of thrustThrough faulting shortening. masses perhaps 100 km in width and folding, rock been shortenedwhen deposited have of to widths two geological 4 shows only 50 or 60 km Figure in and close to the Bighorn cross-sections in these sections thrust faults caused Wildland: normally older rocks units, of rock overlapping with a thrust rocks fault on younger resting partThe westernmost of the the two. between Wildland has Bighorn dropped on one side of the fault plane have Thrust faults the other side. on to rocks compared a kind of telescoping of compression, produce of extension but normal faults produce rocks, – units with normal faults may be wider or rocks can also faulting. Rocks than before longer in area kinds: be bent to form folds of two different anticlines 86 GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION (1978, p.2).Used withpermission. Modified from Figure 1,inJones and Workum Nordegg, andSundre. shown ingreen; (g)cityofCalgary, andtowns of approximate area ofBighorn Wildland 1999); (f) oftheFoothillsboundary (from Hamilton etal. Cordilleran marking theeastern deformation D, shown inFigure 4;(e)approximate edgeof (d) locationsofgeologicalcross-sections A-BandC- sketch; filledcircles indicatedown sidesoffaults; faultsinMain west Ranges, (c) normal sideof direction massescame; from whichthethrust arrows faultspointtoward onthethrust the Pipestone Pass [Main Ranges Thrust Thrust]); and Bourgeau-Siffleur Thrust Mountain Thrust; Sulphur McConnell Thrust; Creek Thrust; (from easttowest: Brazeau Bighorn-CrippleThrust, of Alberta; faults,somenamed (b)majorthrust major groups ofrock unitsintheCentral Foothills Figure 3.Geological sketchmapshowing (a) GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION 87 5) Exploration wells in both sections are located in in both sections are wells 5) Exploration anticlinal folds drilled where were and the Foothills hydrocarbon Foothills most commercial present: are of the kind found in anticlinal structures are traps here. shown the same, scales are The vertical and horizontal 6) view of the geological structure a realistic providing the surface. below shown C-C’ and D-D’ cross-sections from Modified (1978, p.17). Workum and in Jones with permission. Used above the basement. above below the surface, along lines on the surface.below can see the following: you these cross-sections On Ranges and Front The boundaries of the Foothills, 1) A-B. the top of cross-section across Ranges, Main shown basement, the igneous and 2) Precambrian underlies Shield, of the Canadian metamorphic rocks is and the sedimentary Mountains of the Rocky rocks in thrust faulting or folding. not involved in sections A-B and C-D The thrust faults shown 3) the surface, joining to formflatten below a master fault folded. of the thrust4) Many faults are Figure 4. Geological cross-sections A-B and C-D, cross-sections 4. Geological Figure are These cross-sections 3. on Figure locations shown explanations of vertical slices into the earth, showing the surface from to depths of of the rocks the structure sections such Geological sea level. 5 to 7 1/2 km below constructed surface from geologyas these are as seen in 2; information from the geological sketch map, Figure petroleum from logs, cuttings and cores well and named on is shown (one well wells exploration and named shown are wells A-B and five cross-section C-D); and seismic sections from on cross-section structure geophysical studies completed to discover 88 GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION (right of photo) is vertical. Geologists(right ofphoto)isvertical. callthisan “east-facing” fold, showing from thewest. thrusting (side) oftheanticline(left photo) dipsgentlytothewest, butthebeddinginrightlimbofanticline Rocks seenare Upper Paleozoic carbonatesinthecore Note oftheRange. thatthebeddinginwest limb Foothills eastoftheBighorn Wildland. David Thompson Highway isseenatthetopofphototoleft. Figure 5. View from anairplanetoward north ananticlinalfoldinBrazeau Rocky Range, Mountain blind thrust faultsthatcanonlybeseen onseismic blind thrust faultsdon’tsome thrust reach –theyare thesurface more interesting, recent work alsoproves that Fig. 4),once considered rare. To makethingseven of theFoothills province are themselves folded(see drilling. Recent work shows faults thatmostthrust more recently from seismicwork andoilgas dimensional informationthatwe have acquired can’t bewell understoodwithoutthethird excellent foritsday, butthegeologyoffoothills structure. The earlygeologicalmapping was material orvegetation, thushidingmuchofthe over time,orelse itiscovered by soil, glacial becausemuchoftherock hasbeenerodedsurface hard tounderstandby lookingonlyatrocks onthe back tothenineteenthcentury. Foothills geologyis foothillsgoes Geological mappingintheAlberta steep andhigh(Fig. 8). faults. thrust Weathered mountainfaceshere are broad, open foldsunderlainby nearlyflat-lying Lower Paleozoic/Proterozoic (Fig. 2)rocks in In theMain Rangesprovince we have resistant the platformwedge tothesurface. resistant Lower Paleozoic andProterozoic rocks of (Figs.Thrust hard, 3and4),whichbringsvery Ranges Province fault, the Main isathrust Range clastic wedge. oftheFrontThe western boundary now, directly above Upper Mesozoic rocks ofthe were displacedfrom thewest towhere theyare to Lower Mesozoic rocks oftheplatformwedge overthe surface andalongwhichLower Paleozoic fault (Figs. 3and7)in1887. faultis This thrust identified andrecognized ofthis theimportance Geological Survey ofCanada(G.S.C.),whofirst fault, namedafterR.G.McConnell ofthe the Foothills province –istheMcConnell Thrust province of –whichisalsothewestern boundary oftheFrontThe easternboundary Ranges GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION 89 Figure 6. Rocky Mountain Front Ranges, view Front Mountain 6. Rocky Figure to distant Abraham Creek Whiterabbit north along peaks to the right gray Lake. Resistant-weathering carbonate rocks, Paleozoic Upper west-dipping are Mesozoic Lower recessive-weathering by overlain and occupying mostly tree-covered rocks, valley. Creek Whiterabbit for geological mapping of a number of 1:50000 for geological mapping of a number G.S.C. by topographic sheets in the region last 30 The geologists in the 1930s and 1940s. seen new have geological mapping in the years that blends provinces Ranges and Foothills Front surfaceand subsurface information, leading to and structure better understanding of geological possible oil and gas traps. Early geological exploration by A. R. C. Selwyn, G. M. A. R. C. Selwyn, Early geological exploration by all famous nineteenth- or and D. B. Dowling, Dawson twentieth-century was conducted G.S.C. geologists, in for coal (references mainly to help in the search was completed on foot 1989). Early work Smith and using horse parties, that a style of fieldwork lasted until the1950s. As coal exploration became exploration less important the 1920s onward, from for oil and natural gas became an important reason sections or analyzed from petroleum well data well petroleum from sections or analyzed is importantThis because it 1988). (e.g., Jones helps us to understand structural traps, reservoirs and seals that may contain fossil fuels. 90 GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION implementation oftheCoal Policy of1976. exploration intheBighorn Wildland since governmentAlberta hasnotpermittedcoal Eastern Slopes Resource Management Policy, the exploration hastakenplace(Fig. ofthe 9). As part and somereclamation ofthedisturbancefrom coal Wildland, ofwhichhave afew beenwell explored, the railways.Some coalseamsoccurintheBighorn closure in1955owing toreduced demandfrom of coalfortherailwaysfrom World War Iuntil area oftheBighorn Basin source wasanimportant mostly eastoftheBighorn Wildland. The Nordegg found intheBighorn Basin ofFoothills Belt, District (SmithClearwater 1989).Coalisalso British ColumbiaandthePanther River- Mountain Front Rangesbetween , Mesozoic clasticwedge rocks oftheRocky Canada’s Early geologicalwork showed thatabouthalfof R ESOURCES bituminous coal is foundinUpper occur. drillingshouldnot Association positionisthatfurther terrain intheseareas, the Alberta Wilderness Blackstone-Wapiabi. Because ofthesensitivity Pantherof interest toindustry: Corners and discovered. Bighorn Wildland foothillshave twoareas Basin,Sedimentary butthatthere couldbemore tobe discovered ofthe naturalgasreserves Western Canada and the Yukon have about14percentofthe Britishsuggest thatthefoothillsofAlberta, Columbia, Mountain, Nordegg andothers.G.S.C.scientists Bighorn Wildland includePanther River, Limestone or pastproducing gasfieldsinthevicinityof field, foothillspoolsonlyproduce naturalgas.Present provincial Other reserves. thanthe Turner Valley oil and theyfallmostlywithinnationalparks or forpetroleumunfavourable exploration structurally traps. bounded structural The Front Rangesare Natural gasisfoundinfoothillsanticlinaland fault- construction. material wouldbeforlocalroad orbuilding Bighorn Wildland buttheonlyreason to produce this gravel ofglacialandriver originare foundinthe be foundintheBighorn Wildland either. Sand and and zinc,goldsilver –theseare notlikelyto rocks are lead that geologistslookforinsedimentary we’ll finddiamondsthere. Other interesting minerals Bighorn region however, andit’s likelythat notvery which containdiamonds.None are known inthe than 40kimberlite where inCanadathatincluded Alberta, morerush in theNorthwest Territories sparked ahugestaking The discovery ofwhatisnow theEkati diamondmine distance above theMcConnell Thrust. showing Rocky Mountain Front inthe Ranges across Red Deer River valley toScalpCreek area Bighorn southernmost Wildland. View northwest Figure 7.RidgeinFoothills, Panther Corners, occurrences are known, someof GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION 91 Figure 9. Foothills of Panther Corners area, Corners area, of Panther 9. Foothills Figure Mesozoic, Upper Wildland. southernmost Bighorn sandstones and and orange brown soft-weathering Upper to gray view west shales in foreground; the Ranges above of the Front rocks Paleozoic former coal reclaimed Thrust. Note McConnell foreground. in rocks on Mesozoic road exploration Figure 8. Rocky Mountain Main Ranges, Ram Glacier area, headwaters of Ram River, west-central west-central of Ram headwaters River, area, Ranges, Main Ram Glacier Mountain 8. Rocky Figure bedding planes) horizontal flat-lying (i.e., nearly nearly Paleozoic Lower showing Wildland, Bighorn Ranges steep faces and castellated peaks, typical of Main Note carbonate rocks. resistant-weathering Valley. River Lake Louise in the Bow and above Mountain carbonates as also seen on Castle 92 GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION Bighorn Wildland. developed inPaleozoic carbonaterocks, LostGuide Canyon trail area, River, Clearwater south-central Figure 10.Rocky Mountain Front showing Magnificentcirque Ranges. localscenery (cirque andtarn lake) (Fig. 11), hangingvalleys, rock basinsandrock glaciers. tarns (cirque lakes)(Fig. 10),U-shapedvalleys cirques (head-of-valley armchair-shapedhollows), ridges), horns(sharp-pointed triangularpeaks), high country. These includearêtes(sharp-edged the superbglacialeffectswe seenow, especially inthe hasnotbeenlongenoughtodestroythe icedeparted sculpturing! Fortunately, theperiod of erosion since soft, somehard), high-relief topographyandglacial upliftedrocks thatweather differentlyscenery: (some relief topography. This is whatgives usthegreat today’s features are ofaglaciallysculptured part high- are remnants ofthemostrecent iceage),mostof (present glacierssuchasthoseoftheColumbiaIcefield mostly free thousand years oficeinthelastfew Because the Rocky Mountain landscapebecame the pasttwomillionyears. alpine andvalley glaciersoftheCordilleran icesheetof Mountains have onlyrecently beenfreed from the two millionyears. The second factoristhattheRocky relief topographythatwasglaciatedduringthepast new, high-relief topographytodevelop. It isthishigh- this recent upliftgreatly increased erosion, allowing years since mountainbuilding compared tomostoftheapproximately 55million uplifted over millionyears thepastfew (when Mountains andfoothillsseemtohave beenstrongly factors are important. The firstisthattheRocky underlying geologyisthemajorcause,buttwomore Ranges. How wasthislandscapecreated? The broad valleys andjagged,majesticpeaksoftheFront treed ridgesofthefoothillschangewestward intothe In theBighorn Wildland thelushvalleys andwell- S B EEYAND CENERY IGHORN W ILDLAND H ended inthisarea), and ERITAGE 12 GEOLOGY & EXPLORATION 93 , living heritage wildlands – Our Slopes Eastern Figure 11. View from Mountain Rocky from View 11. Figure Ranges, looking Front Mountain Rocky toward west Ha Ya toward River Deer along Red upstream side of Panther Ranch a high ridge, east from Tinda modern U-shaped valley; meander Corners. Note a which meanders over River, Deer belt of Red cut on northglacial outwash plain; and road (right) side of river. Kolar and Brawn (1986) and other authors discuss (1986) and other and Brawn Kolar a number of Alberta settings, and present wildland preservation plea for the of Alberta’s a strong Wildland The Bighorn unique wildland heritage. has an important heritage too, from geological of geological time sweep evidence of the broad in made humans have we to the progress geological the appreciating understanding and I hope origin and importance of this grand area. helps readers that what is briefly sketched here perhaps with a new and the Bighorn, enjoy origin and of humbling sense of the majesty of its the importance for of preserving this magic area generations. future In Glacial deposits, including sand, gravel and glacial sand, gravel including deposits, Glacial rare are features modern Truly also present. till, are the because features with glacial in comparison they include geologically; is so young landscape and minor rivers plains of the present outwash such as landslides. features PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN ELAINE GORDON PLANTS13 OF THE BIGHORN

The highly varied plant life of the Bighorn Wildland is related to the diversity of the five different natural subregions*, including the Alpine, Subalpine, Upper and Lower Foothills and Montane.

Each subregion offers a wealth of plant treasures for wildflower enthusiasts. PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN home for plants such as mountain heathers, moss campion, woolly everlasting, creeping beardtongue Much of the Bighorn is made up of long, open and purple saxifrage. Rock cress, double upper foothills ridges that rise in elevation toward bladderwort, alpine wallflower and nodding pink the peaks of the Front Ranges to the west. These cling tenaciously to dry slopes and ridges, and even are ideal habitat for wildflowers, particularly to steep talus slopes. How do they do it? during prime blooming season from approximately early July to mid-August. Some Surprisingly, it is often the snowfall itself that years provide better displays than others, but these provides not only shelter in the form of insulation, ridges can usually be relied upon to burst into a but also nourishment from meltwater dissolving cycle of colours as different species bloom through essential minerals in the rocks. The constant the short five- to six-week flowering period. When freeze-thaw process of water opens cracks and the monkshood and larkspur are flowering in breaks rocks into smaller pieces, which plants may August, slopes that are normally gray-brown can then use to their advantage. Both high altitude and be blue as far as the eye can see. high latitude plants are almost always perennials with small leathery or hairy leaves that keep them This unique area contains several rare or from drying out. Small creeping or tufted growth PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN PLANTS OF uncommon plant species, and care must be taken to forms also help to avoid desiccation and allow protect them and their habitats. Therefore, when plants to absorb heat from adjacent rocks. In these visiting these areas, please stay on established trails ways, the plants of these extreme environments and do not collect any plants or pick any flowers. work with the limited resources available to them But do enjoy them all and take home as many to survive where little else can. photos of these beautiful plants as you like. Alpine poppies startle people who unexpectedly LPINE come on these exotic little plants at the highest A elevation where things still grow in the mountains, The Alpine subregion refers to the high altitude area up around 2800 metres. They can be found in rare that is too cold and windy to support trees. This is spots along the Front Ranges, on high ridges in the not an area for the fainthearted of any species! Forbidden Creek drainage and on the high passes at Winter starts early and ends late. During their active the top of the Littlehorn and Bighorn Rivers. White forget-me-not (Myosotis alpestris) are an growing season, the resilient little plants that grow Another unusual and strikingly beautiful plant uncommon and beautiful variant of the normal here are exposed to daily summer temperature found in rare places in the Bighorn is nodding blue-coloured flower. fluctuations, ranging from blistering hot sun in the arnica. It covets sheltered nooks well above treeline, daytime to freezing cold at night. They are but not up at the top of the world where the poppies constantly battered by wind and precipitation, blow. This plant occurs as a clump about 15 cm tall, usually in the form of snow. Dwarf shrubs such as with a profusion of nodding yellow flowers on the white mountain dryads and sturdy little arctic reddish stems. Slightly more common in the and reticulated willows dominate most of the area, Bighorn’s Alpine subregion, and a wonderful find * The Natural Regions Map of the Bighorn can spreading in dense low-growing mats hugging the when in bloom, is one of the talus-slope lovers, the be found on page 13. windswept ground. Any form of shelter, whether a alpine wallflower. rock, a crevice or an east-facing slope, provides a 96 PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN 97 (Papaver endures the rigors of exposed sites in the endures The hardy and uncommon alpine poppy and uncommon alpine poppy The hardy kluanensis) occurs in It level. the 2800-metre alpine around the Bighorn. sites throughout scattered These broken remnants of the fir-spruce forest at of the fir-spruce forest remnants These broken typical on a high ridge in the South Ram are treeline of krummholz the Bighorn. throughout OLONIES C RUMMHOLZ K krummholz means word The German term This wood.” or “elfin wood” “crooked is perfectly of the stunted forests descriptive at the that occur in the These delightful edge of the treeline. extreme and the imagination spark little forests is easy to think of their the spirit. It inspire In elves. as inhabited by tangled branches these could be the Canadian context or golden-mantled quizzical chipmunks is not unusual to find It squirrels. ground standing on hind either of these creatures apparently in front, legs, hands neatly folded lecturing on life in the high country a from krummholz pulpit. subalpine and smooth-barked Flat-needled rough-barked fir and square-needled, the most common spruceEnglemann are species to form krummholz in the Bighorn habitat they occupy, the severe In Wildland. species, true krummholz tree species are blasting winds. off by stunted and sheered higher than the They cannot grow them during the that protect snowdrifts height of winter storms. 98 PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN calcareous soilandlotsofnitrogen, sotheyare foundneardungandinalpine rock piles. Theplantsare perennial biennial orshort-lived spreading twoyears intherosette stageandquickly flowering anddying. They prefer (approximately onecmindiameter). Pallas’ wallflower pallasii), (Erysimum although fairly commoninthearctic, isrelatively rare inthealpine oftheRockies. The individual flowers are actuallyquit e big PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN 99 Indian paintbrush (Castilleja miniata). This Indian showy often puts on displays of colour on well- flower slopes during summer. southerly drained The strikingly beautiful Lapland rosebay, a rosebay, Lapland beautiful strikingly The so flowers family, rhododendron of the member it in privilege of seeing few had the early that have subalpine species gorgeous of This most bloom. and to the Bighorn pockets throughout occurs in After Park. parts in nearby some extent of Banff or twice, enthusiasts the plant once finding location, typical treeline for its an eye develop slopes. but slightly sheltered usually on open Pinto on slopes above is found Lapland rosebay drainage, in the Ram Lake, in parts of the South on the slopes of River, Bighorn headwaters of the Ranges and along the Front tributaries Creek Job River. Wapiabi the above crystal down tumbling streams Icy-clear mountain form pools, the rampartsfrom and seepages above mountain sorrel, where areas and wet streams bracted lousewort, leafy asters and alpine buttercups species. vie for space with other moisture-loving subalpine altitudes, juniper shrubs and lower At spruce, as Engelmann such larch trees coniferous providing and subalpine fir begin to dominate, shade-tolerant plants. Here shelter for the more (belonging to one can look for the wintergreens and twinflower ), bunchberry, the genus Pyrola into heart-leaved arnica, all of which extend well might be alpine harebells luck, With the Montane. talus slopes, spotted on the craggy cliffs and open columbines may be seen in open while yellow slopes among the conifers, alders woods and rocky cliffs and ledges it calcareous On and willows. and determination to detect takes a good eye and smooth cliff brake. scented everlasting

UBALPINE Displays of paintbrush in subalpine habitats Displays in colour as as highly varied are within the Bighorn hemi- These plants are can be found anywhere. trees, grasses and of various parasites on the roots making them a hybridize, and they readily their hybridization also But to identify. nightmare than variable brings out an array of colours more From variety. wildflower any other Bighorn deep magenta, pink and orange and to yellows a every the paintbrushes in between, are variation riot of colour. This is an area where, in summer, meadows of meadows in summer, where, This is an area masses of bloom in breathtaking wildflowers hikes that for the arduous colours, a just reward species of must undertake. Here lovers wildflower paintbrush, golden fleabane, alpine forget-me-not, (which the bears sweetvetch bluebell, cress, rock sagewort jasmine, mountain rock and other love), woody intermingled with low alpine species grow heather purple mountain shrubs as bearberry, such and the beautiful Lapland rosebay. S subregion of the high Subalpine altitude The lower but and precipitation, to high winds still is subject is somewhat that of warmer than the temperature altitudes, the upper subalpine In the Alpine. sprucelimber pines, Engelmann scrawny and dwarfedthe by and misshapen subalpine fir are as krummholtz. forms known wind into unique by characterized and shrubsKrummholtz are trees side, and on their windward a lack of branches their distorted asymmetry is symbolic of the them making special area, wildness of this and photographers. among painters favourites 100 PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN bleak alpinelocations. Bladder campion(Melandrium attenuatum), accessible areas by flower pickingbutcanstillbefoundinsecludedfoothillspocketsthroughout theBighorn. Franklin’s lady’s slipper(Cypripedium passerinum). This fragrant littleorchid hasbeeneliminatedfrom many looking like tiny lanterns, arelooking liketinylanterns, anunexpecteddelight inotherwise forests uptothetimberline. lilies maybefoundongrassy slopesandinopen Early inspring,justasthesnow ismelting,glacier are oftenfoundwithnumerous species ofsedges. wetlands, mare’s tailandthebeautiful buckbean source ofnutritionformigratingungulates.In throughout thisregion andprovide animportant andrough fescuearerye abundantgrasses Northern wild reed grass,tuftedhairhairy over alders,chokecherry, willows andwolfwillows. by aspenandbalsampoplarsthatformacanopy plantcommunitiesgenerallydominated supports The rolling landscapeoftheLower Foothills its rangeallthewaytoSubalpine. Northern twayblade,foundinthisregion, extends in wetter areas several bogorchids are common. orchids and lady’s slippersprefer moistwoods,while keep aneye calypso outfororchids. Colourful speciesareshrub found.Here tooisagoodplace to In aspenandbalsampoplarforests manycommon areas are hometobothpaperbirch andbogbirch. ofcommonreindeer lichens. understory Wetter areas, lodgepolepineforests provide acanopyforan of thevalley, sweet bedstrawandsedges.In drier together withshowycommon shrubs, aster, wildlily balsam firandpineprovide acanopyformany Herethe highramparts. beautifulforests ofspruce, fed by the clearmountainspringsandstreams from Rocky Mountains watersheds containsimportant intermingle. This area alongtheeasternfaceof landscape provides auniquearea where species ecoregion, thewarmerairandgentlediversity ofthe As theSubalpine gives waytotheFoothills F U OOTHILLS PRAND PPER L OWER 8 PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN 101 , below. rotundifolia) (Orchis orchid Round-leaved calcareous in damp woods and wet common Fairly can be flowers its springs where mineral bogs fed by on. mid-July seen from , above. The flowers (Cornus canadensis), above. Bunchberry clusters of by followed dogwood are of this miniature the woodlands later berries which decorate bright red in the summer and fall.

ONTANE Grassy valleys and grassy slopes throughout the grassy slopes throughout and valleys Grassy support fescue, rough Wildland Bighorn grass, interspersed California oat grass and June sagewort,with wild blue flax, pasture Mackenzie’s These hedysarum species of sedges. and several integral to the survivalgrasslands are of all ungulate species on their migrations to both their winter and summer ranges. The Bighorn lost its most significant Montane to lost its most significant Montane The Bighorn when much of the Kootenay human development generation behind was flooded for power Plains Saskatchewan on the North Dam the Bighorn examples of this important Smaller River. Ya Corners, at intact at Panther remain ecoregion Ranch and in pockets along the Tinda Ha Wildland. all within the Bighorn Clearwater River, and essential winter habitats for park These are The open grasslands associated wildlife. Bighorn just or occurring at elevations with the Montane, to as sometimes referred are the Montane, above subalpine grasslands. M in common was never ecoregion The Montane Albertasteadily less is becoming and it as it is convertedcommon use. Small to human large contribution is its ecological in area, range for is key winter the Montane because is The Montane wildlife. much of Alberta’s associated with river often, but not necessarily, as open subalpine grasslands flats and occurs a canopy of sheltering and grasslands with pine and including aspen, trees savanna-like valley River The Bow fir. sometimes Douglas is a good townsites and Canmore near Banff ecoregion, Montane of Alberta’s representative it is rapidly lost to of how and a good example urban development. 102 PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN and mountain seepsoftheBighorn. Mossy streams are frequent in the old-growth forests 100 years. Crusty rock lichensgrow aboutaninchevery presence indicates ahealthyecosystem. provide afoodsource formanyungulates. Their Lichens are intheirown important rightand alive andthetree colours. lichenstakeonrich new patches ofsilver Stereocaulon lichenare suddenly forests ofred-capped Cladonialichens.Broad spring tolifewithleafyPeltigera andminiature from tree branches.Afterarain,mossyforest floors andareshrubs, often seen hanginglikeoldbeards of bothconiferous anddeciduoustrees andon They are commonontheforest floor, onthebark in theAlpinetoreindeer lichensintheMontane. regions withintheBighorn, from therock lichens plant specieslists.Lichensare foundinallthe lichens are notplants,theyare usuallyincludedin oftheother.contributes tothesurvival Although are madeupofafungusandanalga;each Lichens are actuallytwoorganismsinone. They O THER L IFE F ORMS richness oftheflorathisregion. hopefully instilasenseofgratitudeforthesingular areasample ofthediversity ofthisimportant and However, thosementionedwillgive avisitor because there are fartoomanytoinclude. mosses, thathave notbeenreferred tohere simply There are plantspecies,including manyimportant slopes justaround treeline. pine characteristic cinnamonbouquetappearondry solidmushrooms withtheir softball-shaped, very especially insecret spotsintheBighorn, these Bighorn, rings.In and ofteninprolificAlberta, fairy the coveted Japanese matsetake,arisesinthe place andattherighttime,pinemushroom, or August–early September. This iswhen,intheright provide atreat for real connoisseursmostyears inlate endowed withfungalvariety. The area canalso the shingle-toppedhedgehogs,Bighorn iswell delicate earcups,brilliantred-capped Boletus,and tobrightorangecoralfungiand purple Cortinarious into amazingdisplaysofrichcolourandform.From mushrooms, theBighorn’s canconvert forest floors warmdays,fungalflora,orwild and afew In combinationofAugust thewakeofaperfect rains 10 PLANTS OF THE BIGHORN 103 In the late summer a profuse variety of mushrooms and other fungi can be found throughout the woodlands of the Bighorn. the woodlands fungi can be found throughout and other of mushrooms variety the late summer a profuse In WILDLIFE OF THE BIGHORN LUIGI MORGANTINI WILDLIFE14 OF THE BIGHORN

The varied terrain and landscape, complex glacial history, diverse vegetation and climate of the Bighorn have created a wide and exceptional quality of wildlife habitat. The Bighorn Wildland provides certain habitats not available within adjacent national parks, especially critical wintering habitats. Park and Bighorn wildlife ranges often overlap, and much of the wildlife from adjacent national parks relies on habitats in the Bighorn at different times of the year. 106 WILDLIFE The Bighorn containssomeofAlberta’s bestelkwinterhabitat. Brought backfrom thebrinkofextinction,elkisonce againarelatively commonEastern Slopes resident. Clearwater Rivers oftheBighornClearwater Wildland. outside thepark alongthePanther, Red Deer and common throughout Banff National Park andpresent British Columbia.By thelate1930s,elkwere native elkandpossiblywithmoving infrom between 1917and1920. These elkinterbred with release ofelkbrought from Yellowstone National Park population isbelieved tohave originatedfrom the Kootenay National Parks. The current elk Alberta insecludedvalleys withinBanffsurvived and on theBrazeau River. animalsmayhave Afew remnant populationremained inwest-, Canadian Rockies. Apparently onlyonesmall the late1800selkhadalmostdisappeared from the the Kootenay Plains intheearly1800s.However, by and fellow furtraderAlexanderHenryhuntedelkon elkas“plentiful”observed alongtheRed Deer River, speciesinthelate 1700s.David Alberta Thompson The North Americanelk,orwapiti,wasanabundant T wildlife numbershave rebounded. to thedecline.But inthelastseveral decades, fire are considered amongthefactorscontributing hunting, severe wintersandlossofhabitatdueto apparently haddisappeared from theregion. Over- However, by theearly1900smostlargeherbivores landscapes withdiverse andabundantwildlife. Reports from earlyexplorers describerich Mountains priorto1900isnotwell known. The distributionofwildlifethroughout theRocky B W IGHORN HE LLF FTHE OF ILDLIFE G REAT M IGRATORS WILDLIFE 107 Wildlife biologist IanWildlife these animals who loved Ross, 2003, in July in a plane crash and died tragically cougar. this treed photographed and includes a cumulative height gain of 2000 gain of height a cumulative includes and is unique migration elk a remarkable Such metres. only caribou Amongst ungulates, in Canada. migrations. extensive undergo similar occur herds elk resident, mostly Smaller, the wherever Wildland the Bighorn throughout and topography provide combination of vegetation is also a seasonal Migration suitable habitat. limited elk, although on a more behaviour of these winter ranges they elevation lower scale. From upper to the surrounding disperse in the summer meadows. foothills and alpine Around the Ya Ha Tinda Ranch, the warm and dry Tinda Ha Ya the Around of the development has allowed microclimate lodgepole pine by grassland surrounded extensive of fescue grass and The presence and aspen. the winter conditions make snow-free relatively Ranch winter home Tinda Ha Ya of the meadows the northernto most of the elk from half of Banff spring and early summer, Every Park. National and the receding traditional routes following from as many as 2000 animals migrate snowline, summer alpine ranges in the to Tinda Ha Ya the 1600 sq km of across they disperse where park, winter autumn and early mountainous terrain. In out of their high summer the animals, driven to their winter return deepening snow, ranges by This annual region. Tinda Ha Ya range in the 52 and 138 km between migratory covers cycle Today elk is one of the dominant, most widely most dominant, one of the elk is Today has It Wildland. Bighorn in the species distributed the to know the elk is know “To been said, In shape their lives. for the seasons season,” the first and turn yellow as the leaves autumn, to gather male elk begin ground, whitens the snow of bugling – with echoes resound Valleys harems. season. In elk during breeding the sound of bull limiting forage, female and snow with cold winter, bands and disperse to lower elk form small open or shrubby to forage in meadows, elevations of slopes and in the shelter on gentle snow-free the breeding after elk, tired Bull aspen groves. suitable habitat in secluded season, disperse to females with their young Later in the year, valleys. that concentrate along major may form large herds Deer and Red the Panther from valleys, river in the south to the ClearwaterRivers and North further Rivers north. of the Saskatchewan One most important elk winter ranges in Alberta – the along the Corners region Tinda–Panther Ha Ya Wildland. – is in the Bighorn River Deer Red 108 WILDLIFE north, habitat lossduetoclearcutnorth, loggingandhighwaykills are considered limitingfactors. primary continuous presence there untilrecently. The reasons for itsdeclineintheBighorn are unknown, althoughtothe Although never commonintheBighorn, themountain subspeciesofAlberta’s woodland caribouhashada on lichensand otherpalatablewinterforage. meadows tonearby mature forests, where theyfeed round, shiftingfrom summergrazingonalpine Rather, theyremain inmountainousterrainyear distances asdomountain caribouelsewhere. These mountaincaribou do notmigratelong Upper CoralandJob Creek valleys. from thisherd are stilloccasionallysightedinthe to theClineandNorth Saskatchewan Rivers. Animals extend intotheBighorn Wildland, from CataractPass Park, southofHighway 16.However, theirrangedoes range mostlywithintheconfinesofJasper National population containssome150to200animals. They The Jasper–White Goat mountaincaribou of thisherd’s historicrange. since thelate1990s,nocaribouhave beenseeninthearea ghosts” intheregion oftheSiffleur River. Unfortunately, several people were whentheycameupon“grey startled coloured pelagemayindicategeneticisolation.In 1990 light- interchange withotherpopulations,andtheirvery boundary. What isleftoftheherd apparently hasno range reportedly extended50kmormore eastofthepark appears tohave declinedsincethemid-1900s,whentheir Siffleur Wilderness Area. This group ofmountaincaribou Porcupine andSpreading Creek drainageswithinthe drainages withinBanff National Park, andtheSiffleur, upper Clearwater, upperPipestone, Dolomite andSiffleur population ofsome25to40animalsusedincludethe Wilderness region. The distributionoftheBanff–Siffleur other some20kmsouth,withintheBanff–Siffleur populations: oneintheJasper–White Goat area andthe includes theBighorn Wildland, whichhastwo distinct dwindle. range oftheirAlberta The southernportion and theirnumbersintheBighorn Wildland continue to Mountain caribouare anendangered speciesinCanada boreal forest –themountainvariety ofwoodlandcaribou. The Bighorn Wildland ishometothe“grey ghosts” ofthe G REY G HOSTS WILDLIFE 109 The bighorn the Bighorn is ubiquitous in sheep Wilderness across freely it ranges where Wildland, national park Reserve and Ecological Area, boundaries. matched sets of horns will establish who is king of the who is king establish horns will sets of matched of cracking the where battles, in dominance herd Lamb up to a mile away. may be heard horns together open grassy gentler, frequent tend to and ewe herds away pesky to blow enough breezy are slopes that also be found in sheep can Bighorn biting insects. seen grazing occasionally bands are and small valleys, attracted to They are grasslands. elevation on lower occur along the steep banks of mineral licks that may or in dense shrubby meadows. small creeks IGHORNS B

AJESTIC

In summer and early fall, bighorn rams tend to summer and early fall, bighorn rams tend In usually gender and seek the company of their own rugged habitat than more steeper, occupy higher, sheep bighorn do the lambs and ewes. Individual and December, in November herds between travel determines size Horn facilitating genetic exchange. used for are dominance in rams, and the horns and to establish dominance defence, display, rams generally live Although strength. through with well- the larger animals peacefully together, M of considerable importance is Wildland The Bighorn summer and winter provides It sheep. for bighorn west may range as far a population that habitat for east of the and Parks National and Banff as Jasper the habitats along elevation to lower Ranges Front rivers. and Brazeau Panther Saskatchewan, North often found on grassy subalpine sheep are Bighorn and steep usually near rough and alpine slopes, widely they are summer, In terrain. “escape” alpine ridges and extensive dispersed throughout occur on windswept they winter, In meadows. Some Ranges slopes. Front south- and west-facing critical are Wildland Bighorn winter ranges in the in that spend summers to the survival of herds bighorns what drives Just adjacent national parks. and the back and forth the national park between it is understood. However, is not well Bighorn Corners, in the Panther that bighorn herds known Clearwater of the Bighorn regions and Ram River and also part herds of national park are Wildland herds, Some ecology. of national park therefore of the Front such as those all along the east side remain Range, Ranges and along the Bighorn round. all year Wildland within the Bighorn 110 WILDLIFE of spruce along theBighorn River.of spruce owl’s summerhomeisan isolatedandancientstand Boreal owls are winged symbols ofwilderness. This people. and isoftenattracted by tobrightcoloursworn Rufous hummingbird. The maleiselegantlycoloured rumped warblersinhabitconifertrees.rumped The often nestnearoreven underwaterfalls. Yellow- easiest tolocateduringnestingseasonasthey rare harlequinducksmaybefound.Dippers are Blackstone andNorth RamRivers, dippersand On several swift-flowing streams, including the the western great Mexico. plainsandnorthern the fallastheymove southtowinteringareas in grounds inthe Yukon orAlaska,andagainin tobreedingin springontheirwaynorth thousands ofgoldeneaglespassthrough thearea migration routes forbirds ofprey. Eachyear the Front Rangesandfoothillsare important glimpsed atthetopofalonesnag. The richesof breeding seasonandmayoccasionallybe owls andpygmyowls are resident duringthe windswept ridges.Elusive hawkowls, boreal elevations where foodiseasiertoreach along slopes, butinwinteritmoves tohigher bluegrouse isfoundonfoothills colourful Townsend’s solitaire. In springandsummerthe grouse, boreal chickadee,winterwren and including thethree-toed woodpecker, spruce coniferous forest oftheBighorn’s foothills, A variety ofbirds are associatedwiththe unique totheEasternSlopes. throughout theprovince toseveral thatare wide variety ofbirds from thosecommon The Bighorn Wildland provides habitatfora by Rod Burns T HE B IGHORN ’ S B IRDS to lower elevations forthewinter. species eithermigratefrom thearea ordescend crowned rosy finchspendthesummer. Allbird along cliffsandscree slopes,flocksofgray- white-tailed ptarmigan.High above treeline, habitat forhornedlarks, Americanpipitsand Open alpinemeadows andscree slopesare colonies scattered attheedgeofalpine. sparrow breed above treeline, inthekrummholz hardyCertain specieslikethegolden-crowned in nearby lower elevation forests. Nutcrackers breed inthesubalpineandwinter Panther CornersandontheKootenay Plains. pine, asinpocketsalongDogrib Creek inthe Clark’s nutcrackermaybefoundwithlimber in areas where conecrop isheavy. thespruce The treeline. Crossbills mayoccuringreat numbers frequent thetopsofconiferous trees around golden-crowned kingletand red crossbill Wilson’s warblerare subalpinespecies. true The subalpine region, butthegoldeneagleand Some foothillsbirds are alsofoundinthe between the Bighorn andthe Front Ranges. isolatedsightingsofthelazulibunting a few thick cover attheforest’s edge. There have been observe. White-crowned sparrows frequent mature where spruce, itisoftendifficultto callsbeautifullyfromvaried thecrown thrush of WILDLIFE 111 Adult male harlequin ducks like these are unmistakable in their exotic feathered regalia. The harlequin duck is The harlequin regalia. feathered in their exotic unmistakable ducks like these are male harlequin Adult in the cold, fast waters it breeds in summer where inland to the Rockies actually a maritime species that moves Creek. Wapiabi such as of high mountain streams This splendid specimen of the white-tailed ptarmiganThis splendid specimen of the white-tailed is in full winter plumage and will convert to a pledge which will perfectly for summer, of mottled grey surroundings. rocky blend it into it’s 112 WILDLIFE in theBighorn, possibly duetoalackoffire-induced habitat. Moose range throughout theBighorn andoldcastantlers indicatethebullsatleastsometimesoccupy winter. highexposedridgeslateinto Their numbersare currently low WILDLIFE 113 The “white buffalo,” as it was called by early called by as it was buffalo,” The “white in of numbers recovery is making a slow Europeans, goats was after hunting of mountain the Bighorn banned in the 1980s. Among other herbivores, moose, mule moose, herbivores, other Among distributed widely are deer white-tailed and with associated They are Wildland. the throughout with pine forests, and lodgepole deciduous slopes. Hybrids and gentle open meadows shrubby, been deer have deer and white-tailed mule between and it is River, Deer along the Red documented see the two species associating not uncommon to Wildland. the Bighorn with each other throughout at a historically low currently numbers are Moose to a combination of wolf perhaps due level, – young and a lack of their main forage predation suppression. – because of fire willows AND ” UFFALO ERBIVORES B H

HITE

THER The true buffalo, or bison, was also an abundant in historic times. Remnant animal of the Bighorn still occasionally found bones, especially skulls, are the Bighorn throughout valleys in the broader northward, Deer the tributaries of the Red from Creek. on the ruggedand even tributaries of Job peoples followed Nations early First Undoubtedly like those of the into valleys the bison herds Clearwater Blackstone, and Red Wapiabi, Sunkay, during their summer wanderings. Rivers Deer Tinda Ha Ya digs in the vicinity of Archaeological food for Ranch confirm the use of bison as human in the Bighorn Today thousands of years. wild horses occupy some of the range Wildland, unlike the However, that the bison used to roam. bison, the wild horse is not migratory. Early European settlers called mountain goats called mountain settlers Early European peoples referred Nations First and buffalo” “white These of the mountain.” the “wisdom to them as widely white-coated herbivores, impressive are Wildland, the Bighorn distributed throughout mountainous terrain, rock associated with craggy and alpine tundra. In cliffs, ridges outcroppings, seek the conditions, they may weather extreme close to live they choose to Usually shelter of caves. Mountains, of the Rocky the Continental Divide occur in isolated pockets although some herds Their along the eastern boundaryWildland. of the in the Bighorn is low growth rate of population possibly due to winter mortality Wildland, as 73 per amongst the kids that may be as high hunting is from decades of protection cent. Several size. in herd increase in a slow resulting “W O 114 WILDLIFE Long-term survival of grizzlies is dependent on maintaining large wilderness landscapessuchastheBighorn ofgrizzliesisdependenton maintaining largewilderness survival Long-term Wildland. The majesticgrizzly, canbefoundin mostBighorn habitats. the quintessentialsymbolofwilderness, Their numbers province-wide, however, are dangerously low. WILDLIFE 115 is surveying his Ursus americanus, Ursus This black bear, climbing is quite Tree branch. a tree situation from of common for this species, and observant explorers on claw marks may find characteristic the Bighorn a black bear by Escaping the area. throughout trees is unwise. climbing a tree succumbed to winter. With green-up and receding green-up With winter. to succumbed to foraging their shift grizzly bears snowlines, to gradually move and forbs, and grasses, sedges sections of western along the open meadows higher, healthy currently are There Wildland. the in the Bighorn. and grizzlies of wolves populations have area of the fur-bearers used The commercially almost no scientific examination. received use of the Bighorn has been a historic Trapping end of the dating back to at least the Wildland, eighteenth century Mountain and the early Rocky and Thompson trading posts of David House wolf and beaver , Marten, Alexander Henry. amongst the primary taken. are pelts now prized were and fisher lynx, wolverine Historically, catch animals. such as mice and voles, The small fur-bearers, chipmunks, squirrels, and tree packrats, ground often overlooked. are marmots, pikas and hares, their contributions, especially as prey However, vital to the and as distributors of seeds, are ecosystems found in the functioning of the diverse of the variety of Protection Wildland. Bighorn of habitats that can sustain viable populations is essential for the well-being these small creatures and birds. of all the larger mammals and of the fish

BEARERS

-

UR Grizzly and black bears are widely dispersed within and black bears are Grizzly about but little is known Wildland, the Bighorn bears, Grizzly their distribution and movements. very large territories. especially the males, range over bear can The home range of an individual grizzly than 1000 sq km, so could more extend over and and both Jasper include parts of the Bighorn As bears emerge from Parks. National Banff shrubby elevation low onto hibernation, they move looking for over-wintered slopes and meadows of elk, moose or deer that berries and the carcasses Bordering the protected confines of two national protected the Bordering secure provides Wildland the Bighorn parks, the 1950s and In and wolves. habitat for cougars number in 1960s, these animals fluctuated in inside and programs control to predator response is Wildland the Bighorn Today outside the parks. their prey wolf packs that follow home to several of the in and out valleys, along all the major river abundance about the current Less is known parks. in 1992 the and distribution of cougars. However, was estimated cougar density of the region sq km 1.5 and 2 animals per hundred between and grouse from of prey, Cougars feed on a variety been seen They have to deer and elk. porcupines stalking bighorn ewes on open slopes. F Wildland the Bighorn of nature The wilderness species such as habitat for wildlife ideal provides marten, lynx, black bear, grizzly and wolf, cougar, is Little fisher. and wolverine rare and weasel of predators the abundance about known in the early that is believed It in historic times. low, populations were 1900s, when ungulate as However, also scarce. and cougars were wolves have predators increased, ungulate numbers rebounded. correspondingly 116 WILDLIFE Ice Lake Kinglet Lake Obstruction Lakes Obstruction Lost Guide Lake KingletLake LandslideLake Lake Entry Lake oftheFalls Ice Lake HAVE BEENSTOCKED WITH CUTTHROAT TROUT HIGH MOUNTAIN LOCATED LAKES WITHIN THE BIGHORN WILDLAND THAT TABLE 2. * introduced species Lake trout Brook trout * Brown trout * Rainbow trout* Cutthroat trout* Golden trout * Bull trout Mountain whitefish Mountain sucker White sucker Longnose sucker Spoonhead sculpin Brook stickleback Longnose dace Pearl dace Lake chub Burbot Source: Nelson andPaetz (1992) FISH SPECIES RECORDED FROM THE BIGHORN AREA WILDLAND TABLE 1. (Salvelinus namaycush) (Salvelinus fontinalis) (Salmo trutta) (Oncorhynchus mykiss) (Oncorhynchus clarki) (Oncorhynchus aquabonita) (Salvelinus confluentus) (Prosopium williamsoni) (Catostomus platyrhynchus) (Catostomus commersoni) (Catostomus catostomus) (Cottus ricei) (Culaea inconstans) (Rhinichthys cataractae) (Margariscus margarita) (Couesius plumbeus) (Lota lota) streams. Recent onthe North surveys are bulltrout spawning historically important River anditstributary,Clearwater Timber Creek, spawning habitatsofmajor streams. The movement ofthetwospecies.Bothutilize the in theupperreaches of many streams limitsthe whitefish andbulltrout. The presence ofwaterfalls distributed throughout thearea, are mountain The predominant native gamefishspecies, forfishproduction. which are necessary limits thedevelopment ofrooted aquaticplants, presence ofglacialsiltandtheannualdrawdown provides over-winter fishhabitat;however, the in thecreation ofAbraham Reservoir. The reservoir In 1974theBigHorn Dam wascompleted,resulting temperatures limittheirfish-producing capabilities. Long periodsofice-cover andlow water Wildland, andthemajorityoccurathighelevations. There lakeswithintheBighorn few are very C. Cto18° 10° where summerwatertemperatures rangefrom are predominantly coldwaterfishhabitats, The mainstemsystemsandtheirtributaries the mainstemofNorth Saskatchewan River. andBrazeauRam, Clearwater Rivers contributeto within theNorth Saskatchewan River system. The ofthe Bighornmajor portion Wildland falls Aside from theRed Deer River tothesouth, area (Table 1). species are recorded withintheBighorn Wildland 12native andfivefound inAlberta, introduced Of the51 native andeightintroduced fishspecies by K.A.Zelt C T HE OMMUNITY B IGHORN ’ S F ISH WILDLIFE 117 Rivers, and into Wapiabi, Brown and Chungo Brown Wapiabi, and into Rivers, collected by of sizes The distribution Creeks. successful fisheries biologists in 2001 suggest that in occurred spawning of the stocked fish has Lake Job and Chungo Creeks. Brown Wapiabi, sport- also used to provide are trout cutthroat fishing opportunities in alpine lakes within the is not reproduction Since Wildland. Bighorn stocked are possible within these systems, the lakes 2). schedule (Table on a regular are trout and rainbow trout brown trout, Brook North occasionally collected within the mainstem These and some of its tributaries. Saskatchewan undoubtedly the descendants specimens are trout fish. Hatchery-produced of historically introduced into basis on a regular still stocked are trout brook and Allstones Lakes. Dormer In 1965 Job Lake was stocked with cutthroat trout with cutthroat Lake was stocked 1965 Job In National Marvel Lake in Banff obtained from This stock was able to spawn in the outlet Park. the lake. In in and successfully reproduce stream 1971 the lake was closed to sport fishing and stock source brood trout designated as a cutthroat Spawn stocking program. trout for Alberta’s Lake is incubated at the Sam Job collected from fryThe resultant Livingston Hatchery in Calgary. subsequently and are size to fingerling reared are Lake was opened to stocked in other locations. Job sport until stocks for a number of years fishing 1989. dwindled, and it has been closed since trout cutthroat Wildland, the Bighorn Within been stocked Lake have Job from produced with the goal of establishing self- elsewhere been put into They have populations. reproducing and Blackstone Deer Red Panther, the Bighorn, This West Slope cutthroat trout is a pure form of wild native Alberta cutthroat trout. The markings and colours The markings trout. cutthroat form Alberta of wild native is a pure trout cutthroat Slope West This this high-spirited catch. the anglers who enjoy by and easily recognized distinctive are In 1955 a West Slope strain of cutthroat trout, strain of cutthroat Slope West 1955 a In Columbia, was southeastern British obtained from waterfalls within above stocked into fishless areas and was successful Ram Rivers the Ram and North These populations. in establishing reproducing in the Ram River resulted have introductions fishing. system offering good trout In 1977 golden trout obtained from Wyoming obtained from 1977 golden trout In Lakes. Coral and Michele stocked into were a unique species adapted to high are trout Golden in Coral altitude lakes. Both of the populations sustained themselves Lakes have and Michele their survival depends upon naturally; however, limited harvest for the protection and habitat tributaries and outlet stream. inflowing Specimens of lake trout, a native species, are a native of lake trout, Specimens North the Upper from collected periodically Reservoir. Abraham above River, Saskatchewan thought to be possible downstream These fish are within Lake the stock in Glacier migrants from Park. National Banff Saskatchewan River above Abraham Reservoir have Reservoir Abraham above River Saskatchewan bull trout, mature of population a modest indicated as identified tributary and several were streams Lake, located Pinto sites. and rearing spawning supports drainage, Cline River within the a unique that is able to of bull trout population native the lake. from stream spawn in the outlet successfully to angling, of bull trout of the vulnerability Because fishing in 1989, and the Lake was closed to Pinto was reduced province entire limit for the bull trout This non-harvest strategy is in 1998. to zero fish. of this native for the recovery designed to allow FIRST NATIONS ANDY MARSHALL FIRST15 NATIONS

A European-centred perspective still tends to view the first white explorers’ sojourns into the foothills region and beyond as the beginning of real history in the West. Yet archaeological evidence suggests that First Nations people inhabited the Bighorn Wildland at least 9000 years ago and reveals a long and deep connection with the region. Through carbon dating and other scientific methods, we know that artifacts found in the area go back as far as 5000 years. They show a pattern of fairly regular winter camping for several thousands of years after that. In other words, First Nations people savoured the glories and natural abundance of the Bighorn for many hundreds of generations before the arrival of the first European people. Their occupancy of the region had clearly intensified by the time people like David Thompson and Alexander Henry passed through in the early nineteenth century. 120 FIRST NATIONS Big Horn Band andlives ontheBig Horn Reserve. may bemadeby afamily member. Dressed intraditional costume, thisbeautifulyoung girl isamemberofthe atpow haveOrnaments specialmeaningsandmanyofthehandmadeoutfitsworn wows are cherishedand rebellion in1885. from Saskatchewan afterthesecondLouisRiel Nation, andtheSunchild of the Cree Nation the O’Chiesegroup, oftheSaulteaux part region. Even more recent were thearrivals of Nation (alsoSioux descendants)moved intothe past twocenturies,theStoney Nakoda First moving intothearea about500years ago. In the occupied theheadwatersofMissouri River) (descendants oftheDakota Sioux, whoformerly There isalsoevidenceoftheAssiniboine valleys of the Bighorn. throughout theEasternSlopes, Frontal Rangesand Ha Tinda areas, theKootenay peopleranged has beendirected attheKootenay Plains and Ya the focusofarchaeological work andlandclaims more permanentsettlementstothewest. While likely tookdriedmeatandpemmicanbacktotheir After theirhuntingforays,theKootenay people nutrition-rich grassesintheregion’s widevalleys. attracted by theherds ofbisonwinteringonthe River beyond Golden through theHowse Pass, Bighorn likelymadetheirwayfrom theColumbia seasonally available. The people whocameintothe moving from placetoasfoodsources became Kootenay travelled throughout theirterritory, western Montana Idaho. andnorthern The large area includingsoutheastBritish Columbia, the KtunaxaNation, whomadetheirhomeina Bighorn region were theUpper Kootenay, of part The earliest-known nomadicpeopleinthe F IRST N ATIONS FIRST NATIONS 121 The wolf, ever fascinating and revered, occurs in fascinating and revered, The wolf, ever lonely calls good numbers in parts Its of the Bighorn. and often linger in the night air along the Sunkay Creeks. Wapiabi Wapta meaning “Loon River.” It is located It River.” meaning “Loon all First Nations people and placed, in many of in many and placed, people Nations all First on where restrictions punitive at least, eyes their carry they could and how ways on their traditional of life. is the only Nation of the Stoney Band Wesley The A any part still occupying group Bighorn. of the Horn Big on the people live couple of hundred word they use the Stoney Reserve, for which Mnotha is now near what Plains northeast of the Kootenay entitlement formally The land Reservoir. Abraham took effect in 1948. bands, and likely other Stoney Band, Wesley The for many Plains occupied the Kootenay during the generations and established themselves nineteenth century as a large, thriving community Saskatchewan, North living along the Brazeau, They watersheds. Clearwater River Deer and Red other places had semi-permanent campsites at Lake, Burnt Swan Tinda, Ha Ya including the the this day, To Lake. Lake and Buck Timber and other partsPlains of the Bighorn Kootenay continue to serveWildland as a productive and an important location for hunting area and encampments. traditional ceremonies some members of the O’Chiese Wesley, Like the to hold onto the lifestyle of strive and the Sunchild moose (the their ancestors, hunting for elk and of course), long since disappeared, bison have gathering berries and harvesting plants for and other spiritual medicinal purposes. Sundances on the Kootenay activities still take place regularly now Wow, Pow Horn annual Big The Plains. is a major event. Waptan, called Kiska The Plains Cree, centred in northern centred Cree, The Plains also relatively were and Manitoba, Saskatchewan able to act to central Albertalate arrivals and were the fur companies and the as middlemen between the whites by introduced tribes. Diseases western of later took their toll, as did the introduction in the 1870s The signing of the treaties liquor. further of prompted dramatic changes to the lives Coincidental with its acquisition of guns early in Coincidental with the eighteenth centuryof and the introduction gradually forced Confederacy horses, the Blackfoot the Continental across westward the Kootenay territoryThe Blackfoot continued to Divide. the North expand, soon extending from south to the headwaters of the Saskatchewan in River the Qu’Appelle and from River, Missouri Nomadic to the Rockies. central Saskatchewan undoubtedly bison hunters, the Blackfoot of Because region. occupied part of the Bighorn warlike behaviour of the more the apparently wary the white settlers remained of Blackfoot, the fur trade flourished with the them. However, the tribes, leading to Nations help of the First in 1799. House Mountain building of Rocky Although we have less ongoing evidence of their evidence ongoing less have we Although the inhabited other tribes of a number activities, of the the arrival 1700s, before the by region Territorial Sunchild. O’Chiese and Stoney, and fluctuated not definitive were boundaries who joined Blood, and the The Peigan constantly. become part people to of Blackfoot the dominant among were Confederacy, Blackfoot the powerful Tsuu the people, now The Sarcee these groups. the once occupied T’inanear Calgary, Nation and enjoyed area River Saskatchewan upper North the Blackfoot. a loose alliance with 122 FIRST NATIONS religious traditions orsymbolsrooted inlegend. dancers signify specialevents orhonours,special dance competitions. Someoftheregalia by the worn Pow wows are celebrations, socialgatheringsand and pliablewillow twigs. colder months.Hats were madefrom rawhide,fur frocks andsoft,knee-lengthleggings duringthe moccasins. The womenwore undecorated skin from twohides,leggings,breechcloths and men wore withafullcollarmade buckskinshirts errandsfortheelders.Forto running clothing, did avariety oftasks,from helpinggatherfirewood meals andgatheringfood.Children inthecamp were responsible formakingclothing,cooking The men’s jobwastogohunting,whilethewomen generationthewaysof life. and teachingeachnew were the leaders,responsible formakingdecisions children, hadaplaceinthecommunity. Elders with otherNations, allpeople,from elderstothe distinct from thoseofotherFirst Nations, butas The Kootenay orKtunaxa language wasquite unexamined sitesinthearea. speculated thatthere mightstillbehundreds of might bebuiltatasinglecampsite.Reeves across the mountains. Ten or12oftheselodges lodges, likelymadefrom woven reeds easytocarry thousands ofyears. Signs were foundofmat suggest useofthearea asatool-makingsitefor mines alongShundraevidence. Chert Creek arrowheads andbutchered ofthe bonesformpart people ofallages.Boneandstonescrapers,knives, of winteroccupationby groups of50to100 region, Reeves drew apicture ofthousandsyears his discovery ofaboutahundred sitesinthe Dam, which created Abraham Reservoir. Based on North Saskatchewan wasfloodedfortheBig Horn and consultant,completedastudybefore the Reeves, aformerUniversity professor ofCalgary has beendoneintheBighorn region sinceBrian No known archaeological work ofanysignificance C ULTURE modern sensitivities. from naturalsurroundings oftenseemsidyllic to often harsh,theabilitytoobtain foodandcomforts was undoubtedlyachallengeandconditions survival a thin,pliablebonefrom alynx’s front leg.Although or alargelegbone,whilefishhook wasmadeusing traded flintstone.Ahidescraperwasmadeofstone backbones. Arrowheads were carefully chippedfrom string fromofdeerorbison thelongsinews Bows were orbirch, andthe madefrom chokecherry onthelongpine-tree andsupported trunks. sinews made from cured animalhidesstitchedtogetherwith occurred singlyorinsmallgroups. Teepees were scattered existence,lookingformountaingamethat on themuchlargerbisonherds, theylived amore Kootenay. Unlike theprairieNations, whodepended around the area insmallernumbersthanthe The AssiniboineandStoney peoplelikelymoved into theirseventies andeighties. remained relatively disease-free andmanylived well usually abundantmeatandplants,mostpeople Living inthegreat outdoors,subsistingonadietof Europeans before modernmedicinewasdeveloped. for example,generallylived muchlongerthan and weapons ofwar. Scientistsbelieve theKootenay, residency before thewhitemencamewithdiseases look backwithlongingtotheirextendedperiodof It isnotsurprisingthatmanyFirst Nations people Cline River andcouldbeupto1000years old. series oflinesonarock, hasbeenfoundintheupper likely more intheregion, theonlyknown a rock art, associated withvisionquests.Althoughthere are Bighorn.northern Rock isbelieved tobe art documented burialsitesalongasingletrailinthe the Assiniboine. Today there are aboutonehundred likely datetorelatively recent timesandthearrival of and circular, oval orhorseshoe-shapedcairns. These Archaeologists have found signsofvisionquestsites FIRST NATIONS 123 This majestic wapiabi (“grave” in Stoney) is found in the Wapiabi Valley. Visitors to this site are often greeted to this site are Visitors Valley. Wapiabi is found in the in Stoney) This majestic wapiabi (“grave” gravesite. of guests to this Stoney hawk, announcing the arrival with the call of a red-tailed ONTACT C

UROPEAN

Although it ultimately disruptedAlthough it ultimately their way of life, the early at first welcomed many Nations in other capacities. acting as guides and Europeans, it is Plains, importance the of the Kootenay Given was presence not surprising that a fur trade Although accurate information established there. the eighteenth before about activities in the region that the it is clear century is in short supply, trade with white men attracted First lucrative economies Traditional a wide area. from Nations trading posts. became dependent on visits to the kettles and other items soon knives, axes, Guns, the addition to their goods, became essential. In measles diseases – from newcomers also brought disease. and venereal to tuberculosis and smallpox was incorporated into Canada in 1870, The area Although many introduced. were and treaties of life, the bands sought to maintain their way the 1880s final disappearance of the bison in to the government-surveyed most to return forced reserves to try and forge a newand unfamiliar way of life. E was a era pre-contact that the believe The Stoney for and prosperity happiness, peace time of great area. inhabitants of the the original their ancestors, and the Great harmony with nature, in They lived The of the people. for all the needs provided Spirit country was lots of rich with game, and there was The land all the people. food and land for had made Spirit Great The belonged to the people. the country everything and had given to their in it people to use. 124 FIRST NATIONS Tinda property. Ranch used by ancientpeopleswere recognized on Ya Ha route forbirds ofprey. Recently, eagle-capture pits the Bighorn Wildland, migration animportant Each year thousandsofgoldeneaglespassthrough Slopes inthewest, asshown inthe mapspublished Red Deer River inthe southandtheEastern wasbordered by the ofAlberta territory inthispart rations intheevent offamine. The Treaty 6 implements andseedgrain, plusapromise togive ItAlberta. includedaprovision foragricultural people ofwhatisnow Saskatchewan andcentral Treaty 6wassignedin 1876, mostlyby theCree mean muchtothem. formula forestablishingthesize didnot ofreserves occupied. Issues suchastitletolandorstrict the rightstolandwhichtheyhadoncefreely suggest theydidnotrealize theywere handingover They, too,wantedpeace,butinterpretations today a different perspective onwhattheywere signing. First Nations representatives mighthave had quite considerable culturalandlanguagebarriers,the developed forthewhitemen.Because of Territories –sotheycouldbe –includingAlberta government wantedtitletotheentire North West commercial andterritorialneeds. The federal for theirownestablishing certainty expanding making peacewiththeaboriginalpeoplesand For theEuropean settlers,thetreaties were awayof have been deepandserious. the misunderstandingssurrounding thetreaties From oftheStoney, thepointofview forexample, understandably, dependingonwhoonespeaksto. Interpretations oftheintenttreaties vary, complicating theirimpactontheregion. oftheBighorn,intersect inthesouthernpart the territoriescovered by Treaties 6,7and8 this book.However, itisinteresting tonotethat various First Nations groups isbeyond thescopeof Detailing thesigningoftreaties withthe L T AND ETE AND REATIES C LAIMS Kootenay Plains, whichremain unresolved tothisday. O’Chiese, too,have ongoingclaims onthe signed anagreement before shortly that. The 1950 asanadhesionto Treaty 6;theSunchild had Mountain House, wasofficiallyrecognized in ofRockyboundaries andabout50 kmnorth The O’ChieseReserve,eastoftheBighorn information, simplyoverlooked thegroup. matters andwithoutsufficientbackground treaty commissioners,intheirhastetoresolve these Kootenay Plains group wasquitesmall,andthe Snow speculatesoneofthereasons wasthatthe an adhesiontoanytreaty since.Former Chief 8 settlement.Nor have theybeenpermittedtosign Plains were inthe notinvited toparticipate Treaty 1899. But theStoneys oftheBighorn–Kootenay was notdiscovered untilthesigningof Treaty 8in was omittedfrom allthetreaties. The discrepancy this day. The Kootenay Plains area intheBighorn that isthesource ofresentment andcontroversy to geographical boundariescreated aseriousoversight For First Nations people,atleast,thesettingof south. people further signed wastomakepeacewiththeBlackfoot motivation forthewhitesettlerstohave Treaty 7 is todaytheBritish Columbiaborder. Aprime Deer River, beingwhat withthewestern boundary of boundary northern Treaty istheRed 7territory of it becamepart Treaty 7,signedin1877. The National Park, Nevertheless, andextendingnorth. even Treaty 8,whichincludeswhatisnow Banff of to have been part Treaty 6,anadhesiontoit,or been more logicalthenfortheStoney settlement From ageographicalpointofview, itwouldhave Treaty 6territory. sacred places. Thus, mostoftheBighorn area isin in John Snow’s book,Thesemountainsare our FIRST NATIONS 125 This tree is marked with cuts that a Stoney elder with cuts that a Stoney is marked This tree the number of days spent explained represent is found near the this site. It to reach travelling about two Trail, beginning of the historic Bighorn River. the Bighorn km above grasslands at the Plains, claiming the Stoney could Stoney the claiming Plains, at the grasslands better. for them care between years in the past three discussions During issue of the over and the province environmentalists the then-head Wildland, the Bighorn for protection his his concern that voiced Nation of the O’Chiese Nation out. “Thepeople had been left O’Chiese First lands to some of the Crown traditional ties has strong Bradshaw. said Danny within this area,” still somewhat details are Although the historical understanding of for a better can strive we sketchy, particularly Bighorn, ties with the Nations First hike or ride along As we area. Plains the Kootenay its and camp by magnificent trails the Bighorn’s on can meditate and lakes, we life-giving streams us gone before people who have the numerous We circumstances. under dramatically different can try their experiences, their to recall and their connections with the perspectives and mystical rhythms of the region. relentless That obligation was partially met in the mid-1970s was O’Clock Creek Two when a section of land by bearing in mind the special status. However, given historical context, conservationistsbroader may have people Nations understand better why First with enthusiasm their attempts not always greeted as a natural, Wildland to set aside the Bighorn the early charged in Snowss Chief area. protected in the Kootenay natural area 1970s that a provincial had been established without consultation at Plains for the Stoney the place traditionally used by to be a sundances, and that this action appeared The our culture.” to destroy attempt “deliberate of the stewardship Alberta’s chief also criticized As we have alluded to, for the Stoney and other First and the Stoney alluded to, for have As we was the treaties people, the signing of Nations treachery. and even misunderstanding tarnished by history the importance of the to Stoney Given how it is remarkable Plains, of the Kootenay return when the details. But about the little is known to in 1972 was preparing government provincial Stoney and flood historic Dam Horn launch the Big member of the newly a senior Yurko, Bill gravesites, of the Conservative government elected Progressive time said: “These in this land for lived people have flooding the now are The fact that we centuries. and where buried, their ancestors were land where located, are buildings of historical significance land for a places us under an obligation to provide historical site.” sacred, After many years of petitions and promises (some promises and of petitions many years After Wesley the records), Stoney to according broken, was Plains Kootenay claim to the Nation’s First the of the creation in 1948 with finally recognized a have Wesley The Reserve. Horn Big 5000-acre to expand their under way process specific claims the the O’Chiese and from claims Further territory. federal court. Canada’s also still before are Sunchild EARLY EXPLORATION JOYCE MCCART EARLY16 EXPLORATION

The nineteenth century marked the appearance of the first Europeans in the Bighorn Wildland. They came for a variety of reasons – trade, science, adventure – but their presence was light, and the only sign of their passage is the writing they left behind.

Four individuals in particular, all of whom kept journals, typify these early visitors: David Thompson, James Hector, the Earl of Southesk and Mary Schäffer. 128 EARLY EXPLORATION Archives oftheCanadian Rockies. explorers andphotographers. This photois from the mountains andwidesweeping valleys inspired early From rocky outcrops likethisone,magnificent Y fromspectacular view the Ya Ha Tinda Ranch. knowl,” andwrote thefirst descriptionofthe a broad plain. There heclimbeda“very high Deer River, through milesofforest, totheedgeof meet them. The ridetookhimwest alongtheRed coming across theRockies, Thompson decided to when word camethatabandofKootenays was was stationedatRocky Mountain House, and and theKootenay Plains. In thefallof1799,he Bighorn –the Ya Ha Tinda, theNorth RamRiver Thompson explored three different areas ofthe During thefirstdecadeof19thcentury, master geographerthathewas. to berecognized asthedeterminedexplorer and (some30years afterhisdeath),hebegan surfaced candidate forfame,butoncehismapsandjournals educated by charity, Thompson was anunlikely the North West Company. Borninobscurityand recently marriedandemployed asafurtraderby was David Thompson. He was30years old, Of thefour, thefirsttoventure intotheBighorn E Rockies. By June 13,1800 theexpeditionwaswell thefurtradeacross the first attempttocarry The following spring, ofthe Thompson waspart Summits oftheMountain” (Belyea 1994,6). one behindanotherhigherandtothesnowy lying nearly parallel totheMountain, andrising North, where itwasevery ofwoodyHills Ranges the southward extendingby thewestward tothe extensive “I hadavery from View oftheCountry: A ARLY H A T INDA E 1799 XPLORATION Point, androde outontotheKootenay Plains. from thewreckage ofaburntforest, crossed Windy children. Three weeks later, theridersemerged cavalcade ofpackhorses,hunters,womenand Saskatchewan, thenfollowed onhorsebackwitha dispatched aloadedcanoeuptheNorth chance attheRockies. On May 10,1807he Seven years went by before hewasgiven asecond expedition turnedback. their limbs,”andmuchto Thompson’s disgust, the slope wasimpossibletodescendwithout“breaking packs down themountain.But themenswore the reach theNorth Saskatchewan iftheycarriedthe Whiterabbit Creek, andhefigured theycould and scrambledover thedivide.Below, hecouldsee Thompson pushedontothefarendoflake Road withtheHorses”a farther (Belyea 1994,29). its western Side, equallyloftybutbroken, deniedus Head intheClouds,accessibletoEagle only, & Sidedeep Lake...whoseeastern &hidits rose abrupt were obligedtostop, forattheendofthiswasa tolerably exposedtotheAction oftheSun –here we “For thelast1/4ofaMile we were onabare Spot M And there thetrailcametoanend. North RamRiver toitsheadwatersinMud Lake. crossed theriver and ledtheexpeditionup Saskatchewan (astheKootenays hadadvised), “useless guide,”insteadoffollowing theNorth however, where Thompson wantedtobe.His into theRamRangeofmountains–nowhere near, UD L AKE 1800 EARLY EXPLORATION 129 Mud Lake marked the end of the trail for David Thompson in 1800. The terrain beyond the lake proved beyond The terrain Thompson in 1800. for David end of the trail the Lake marked Mud in British and establish a fur trade effortsthe Rockies to cross Thompson’s impassible to horses, thwarting Columbia. 1807 LAINS P OOTENAY Half a century later, science came to the Bighorn a centuryHalf later, of an energetic in the person arrived It Wildland. old, a – 24 years Hector Scot named James young graduate of medical school and a member of recent was first love Hector’s Expedition. the Palliser century, but in the mid-nineteenth geology, and in natural science was a branch of medicine, a had to become he’d to study geology, order that however, was in the field of geology, It doctor. he is Zealand, New he made his name. In head of the New Hector, James as Sir remembered Survey. Geological Zealand The travellers camped near Two O’Clock Creek, O’Clock Two near camped The travellers snows until the mountain they stayed where and his Thompson of June, the third melted. On a Pass, the Howse to cross headed west retinue on the North Plains that put the Kootenay move Rockies. the across trade route Company’s West can be called traffic yearly that traffic – if twice But the summer of In – lasted less than four years. Howse Joseph Company’s Bay 1810 the Hudson’s bears his name for the the pass that now crossed increasing first and last time, and that fall, the Thompson David drove hostility of the Peigans the opening With north of a safer route. search in in 1811, the fur trade Pass of Athabasca Plains. Kootenay the from disappeared “[Course] thro’ the Kootanae Plains, where we put we where Plains, Kootanae the thro’ “[Course] on, came fast – we & People Canoe up near the notwithstanding Valleys, The Trot. sound often at a of of the Chain appearance the rugged snowy one might pass pleasant, & are about us, Mountains come have in such places we summer an agreeable 1994, 41). (Belyea the last 4 Miles” thro’ K 130 EARLY EXPLORATION remain asevidenceofthisarea’s richhistory. for trapping boxes Martin martin. likethisone trap linesremain today. Early trappers builtboxes wildlife andtrap lineswere establishedearly. Many culture. The Bighorn Wildland wasrichwith The furtrade hadamajorinfluenceonwestern doubt early explorers dealtwithapackrat ortwo. stealing treasures andgenerally causinghavoc. No become quiteanuisance,gettingintoeverything, branches, twigs,sticksandotherdebris. They can Packrats live innestsbuiltofplantmateriallike K of theKootenay Plains. Point (now Whirlpool Point) forabird’s-eye view upper North Saskatchewan wastoclimbPine of theirgeology, andhisfirstactonreaching the surprisingly, Hector lookedatlandscapesinterms Horse River); thesecondayear later. Not kicked by ahorseonthebanksofKicking in September weeks of1858 (afew afterhewas Hector madetwovisitstotheBighorn –thefirst misprint for Mouflon, French formountain Thompson had calledittheMuleton (possibly a though itwasn’t David forwantoftrying. winter. The river itselfhadyet tobenamed, to theKootenay Plains toprovision hispostforthe Cline hadmadeanannualtrek from Trail, andthatyears before, fur traderMichael told himthetrackalongriver wasOld Cline’s concerned theClineRiver. AStoney hunterhad Hector’s lastnotesbefore leavingtheplains sandstone” thatoncechurnedtheriver intorapids. Reservoir), andnotedthe“ledgesofquartzose Saskatchewan (now thebanksofAbraham and sandoftheterracesenclosingNorth andlimestone,gravel helistedthequartzite north, of Two O’ClockRidge.Ashecontinuedtoride devoted a page ofhisjournaltodetailingthestrata climbed 1128metres upMount Ernest Ross and From hiscampsiteon Two O’ClockCreek, he trees”and smallcherry 1968,327). (Spry excepting only intheravines where there are poplars terraces are quitefree from timberofanykind, growth, butfree from underwood. The widest higher onesare covered withcypress pinesofsturdy hundred feetabove theriver. ofthe The surfaces are beautifullymarked, risingsuccessively many terraces alongtheedgesofKootanie“The Plain OOTENAY P LAINS 1858 EARLY EXPLORATION 131 Early exploration required skill at moving through at moving skill required exploration Early on horseback, carrying gear and mountainous areas food on pack horses. 1859 LAINS P OOTENAY “We marched a few miles, in a southerly direction, a few miles, in a southerly marched “We and halted Saskatchewan North up the course of the This so-called plain is merely Plain. at the Kootanie – a valley enlargement of the an inconsiderable and covered of trees bare space of some fifty acres, 235). (Southesk 1875, grasses” with short prairie and after Hector, only two weeks arrived Southesk though he knew about the coincidence (he came hear didn’t Hector markers), one of Hector’s across a It’s about it until the two men met in Scotland. discussing the same wonder they knew they were on The only thing they agreed piece of country. River. on the upper Siffleur was the “bleak moor” and pines, Southesk saw poplars Hector Where Their most startling difference, saw only grass. of the of the size was in their recollection however, Plains. Kootenay or eight “seven the plains were view, Hector’s In – in other miles wide” miles long and two to three to Southesk’s compared some 12,000 acres words, view of the for the latter’s possible reason 50. One at arrived one. He have didn’t plains is that he really a heavy dusk, camped in the rain and left lamenting his view of the mountains. mist that obscured and bedding, a table, a camp stool, a rubber camp stool, a table, a and bedding, bath Shakespeare. William of works and the the to approach first European was the Southesk of eastern boundaries the following by Bighorn He Wilderness. Goat White the and Park Jasper to its Coral Creek followed Pass, Job crossed 18, Cline, and on September confluence with the Saskatchewan. of the North the valley 1859 reached K 1859 ILDERNESS W IFFLEUR S Hector’s second visit to the Bighorn was the Bighorn visit to second Hector’s reached than his first one. He marginally longer this time 28, 1859, on August Plains the Kootenay Pipestone trail up the Nations a First following by Pass. to Pipestone River sheep); James Hector named it the Wapateehk (or Wapateehk the named it Hector James sheep); Mary Schäffer goat”); for “white Stoney Waputik, a falls on the (now to it as the Cataract referred alpinist Norman was 1902 before but it river); named it the Cline. Collie finally Soon after, a Scot named James Carnegie, the a Scot named James after, Soon in the Bighorn arrived Earl of Southesk, Ninth and widower was 32, a recent Southesk Wildland. on safari for the benefit of his health. As currently befitted a person of rank, his entourage consisted cook and a string of of a party of men, an Iroquois tents packhorses loaded with guns and trophies, Hector named the Siffleur River (French for (French River the Siffleur named Hector after the cheeky little marmots that “whistler”) he rode The next morning, whistle along the trail. and Saskatchewan the plains to the North across the Over Whirlpool Point. set up a camp opposite an elk and next four days, his men shot a moose, then turned most of the meat bighorn sheep, five paid the 3 Hector September into pemmican. On the to cross hunters, loaded his horses and set out Pass. Howse “After crossing the highest point, we made a gentle made the highest point, we crossing “After moorland...we a bleak miles over descent for five of a densely wooded then came to the brink next day descend along the Siffleur valley...The a path cut by stream...travelling a very rapid River, reached verythrough nightfall...we dense woods. At Saskatchewan of the North the wide open valley (Spry 1968, 442). Plain” opposite to the Kootanie 132 EARLY EXPLORATION adventure andhopethatbrought peopletothis region. It is more where oftenthannottheelementsthatdetermine peoplecanlive. Cabins likethisone thatstandstodayontheKootenay Plains, reminding usofthe EARLY EXPLORATION 133 Trail and survey markers, evidence of early travel and survey evidence of early markers, Trail standing off from squared were the area, through in the Bighorn and can be found along trails trees Wildland. 1907 1907 LAINS P OOTENAY “To see the Plains at their best, one should come one should at their best, see the Plains “To and look down in August, trail the Pipestone over the South. hills to the rolling from on the scene floods grasses of the ripened golden-brown Then the winds and river light, for miles the with the valley ringing of a bell to east...the faint west twists from specks on the landscape are denotes that a few tiny tepees of the the white dots are horses, and really and softer dryer, the air is sweeter, Here Indians. could the world and here I know, than anywhere in a dream” life pass by easily be forgotten and (Schäffer 1911, 70). the plains, Mary on Schäffer her last evening On The cabin. Barnes’ attended a dinner partyEliot in company included the party a cluster of travellers, Silas dark, women, and once it grew of Stoney a merryThey were Beaver. and Samson Abraham but as Samson lot, full of teasing and laughter, – face, to light his pipe at the fire crouched Beaver – once the glow braids and brass earrings lit up by “I was regret. again her account was tinged with which in a this picture even “for glad,” she wrote, few can be no more.” years K At the end of a 25-mile ride from Pinto Lake – Pinto the end of a 25-mile ride from At – she turns” and baked by chilled, “stormswept, and last for the third Plains the Kootenay reached writing was light time. As a rule, Mary Schäffer’s a somber but that fall, her mood took and witty, that had left The trickle of Europeans turn. a trace on the plains was turning into a scarcely places” flood, and convinced that the era of “secret was coming to an end, she took up her pen to write Plains. a tribute to the beauty of the Kootenay Her travels took her into the Bighorn three years three took her into the Bighorn travels Her she descended the trail through 1905, running. In to camp on the Kootenay Wilderness the Siffleur summer she was on a mission to That Plains. The alpine collection. complete her husband’s for a second visit, summer she returned following trips,” “short but in 1907, suddenly impatient with the countryshe decided to explore that (apart from of province families) was the exclusive the Stoney the Rockies was a pack trip through The result men. that lasted the length of the summer. At the beginning of the twentieth century, an century, twentieth of the beginning the At Wildland. in the Bighorn up turned American Mary Schäffer raised in Philadelphia, Born and to tackle a rugged seem the type on the life didn’t her and by well-to-do, were her parents trail. Both a pampered enjoyed she’d account, own whose hobby married a doctor She upbringing. she accompanied him and though was botany, they every to collect plants in the Rockies, summer in a hotel and rarely train, put up by arrived after she was only It the railway. far from strayed and chaps appeared that buckskins was widowed at 43, and in her otherwise fashionable wardrobe, a guide and Marylearned to ride, hired Schäffer into the wilderness. ventured OUTFITTERS VIVIAN PHARIS OUTFITTERS17

Who knows better the intricacies and intimacies of the Bighorn Wildland than those who work and live there? In the modern era, these are the guide-outfitters who often set up their camps in snow in May and remove them in the snow of late November.

Some of the Bighorn’s guide-outfitters have worked in, known and admired the area for two and three generations. 136 OUTFITTERS a beautifulfull-curl ram. Chester Sands (left)andhissuccessfulclientshow off near andbefore theriver wasdammed. River toPinto Lakebefore roads cameanywhere North Saskatchewan River andalongtheCline ofthe throughout themountainousterrain north would civilize andspoilthearea. He ledthem Shäfferhunters whomMary sawasthosewho of thefirsttoleadexpeditionstouristsand River andtheKootenay Plains. Clarence was one wilderness placesasCataractCreek, theCline impending floodofvisitorsintosuchsecret Schäfferwrote1907, Mary forebodingly ofthe On herlasttripthrough theKootenay Plains in Schäfferbymissed meetingMary only12years. Plains and moved toBritish Columbia.Clarence up hisattemptstogainownership oftheKootenay 1919, around thesametimethat Tom Wilson gave Bighorn. Clarence beganguidingandoutfittingin barely preceded Chester’s father, Clarence, inthe area intheirextendedguidingoperations. They now oftheBighorn ofthe part andincludedparts National Park famehadinterests inlandsthatare Simpson ofearlymountainexplorationandBanff territory. Boththenotorious Tom Wilson andJim earliest outfittersandguidestooperateinthis The Sands familyfollowed ontheheelsof what hasbecomeknown astheBighorn Wildland. of these lands,guidingandoutfittinginmanyparts years, Chester Sands andhis familyhave roamed timberline intheteethofblastingwind.For 78 the roots of trees thatholdtightattheedgeof are anchored intothemountainsoilsasfirmlyare The Sands family’s roots intheBighorn Wildland C AND HESTER H IS F S AMILY ANDS rocky slopes. They were notpretty horses,but their difficult terrainofheavydeadfall, muskegandsteep, Cayuse horseswere preferred for working inthis claims tobealostbreed ofhorse,theCayuse. Bighorn. They were assistedthenby whatChester about 200kmintotheirfall hunting grounds inthe Sunchild Road west ofRocky Mountain House, trailed theirpackstringsfrom theirranchonthe Highway 11hadbeencutthrough, Chester’s family In earlydays,before theNorth Forestry Road and for anotheroutfitter. with himandseveral additionalyears ofworking his fatherin1954,aftersixyears ofapprenticing Chester tookover theCline–Job–Coral area from hunting operationsintheSouth Ramever since. trail ridingoperationsintheNorth Ramandfall Lorne Hindbo, whohasably continuedsummer his non-resident rampermitsabout20years agoto several years intheSouth RamRiver before selling Sam’s sonDon carriedonthefamilytraditionfor Whiterabbit Creek andtheNorth RamRiver. career intheBlackstone butmoved operationsinto and CoralCreeks, whileSam beganhisguiding Myrtle’s guidingarea includedtheBlackstone, Job spectacular andbountifulplace. fromtheir livelihoods, this atleastinpart, followed theirfatherintothe Bighorn andmade their sister, Myrtle Ravio. Allthree offspring was passedontohissons,ChesterandSam, andto and itswildlife,therivers, trailsandweather accumulated over more than30years oftheland in 1952. The vast knowledge thatClarence territory and elk,untilhepassedintoawholenew what were oftenrecord-book trophy bighornsheep adventurers intotheseareas, helpingthemtofind and CoralCreeks. He continuedtoescort Wapiabi andBrazeau Job Rivers andoftherugged Clarence wasanearlyexplorer oftheBlackstone, OUTFITTERS 137 Chester Sands and his able pack string not only carried hunters, fishermenChester Sands and tourists into the backcountry; lands in the and adjacent national park into the Bighorn they also accommodated geological expeditions 1950s and 1960s. Chester regrets that in his 51 years of working and of working that in his 51 years Chester regrets took his clients only ever guiding in the Bighorn, is It the area. rams from trophy two record-book hunting view of selective that many years Chester’s the local gene pool rams altered for the best trophy dominate. so that small-horned animals now observation is that bighorn Chester’s However, about the same today as they sheep numbers are The same is not true for the elk ago. 50 years were population, which he observes to be greatly was in the 1960s. Although what it from reduced campaign in 1951 poisoning predator a massive the elk population to swell, and 1952 allowed may have control Chester suggests that fire reducing by influenced the subsequent collapse feels that the Bighorn’s He forage availability. at a historically high currently grizzly bears are Over the years, most of Chester’s hunting clients Chester’s most of the years, Over and many returned States, the United came from clients especially admired Return for trips with him. challenging countrythe wild, scenic and they found and along the and Coral Creeks in places like Job particular One Rivers. and Brazeau Blackstone that is proud 17 times. Chester client returned one American doctor made under his guidance sets of trophies slams,” or hunted three “grand three American species of horned all four North from with a bighorn. completing each sheep, heavy bone structure allowed them to carrythem to large allowed bone structure heavy of on the tops them feet kept broad and their loads horses were Cayuse broken, Once muskegs. – ideally suited for and steady strong unflappable, countryrough into the early expeditions in and Wildland. the Bighorn around 138 OUTFITTERS of the diamond hitch knot will hold everything securelyof thediamond hitchknotwillholdeverything untilthenextcamp isreached. place by arope cincheddown tothepanniers.Over allofthisgoes aprotective tarpaulin, andthenaversion panniers (orpackboxes) hangfrom thepacksaddletree pannierropes. by permanent The toppackisheldin Packing horsesisanintricateandvanishing skill.Each packerusesvariations onatheme.In thiscasethered stands ontherightinthisPanther camp. Corners Semi-permanent outfittercampsare sometimessetupinMay andremoved in November. Abear-safecache century generationofguidesandoutfitters. century to theeasthave done,andbelostto a twenty-first- Bighorn wouldfalltodevelopment justasthelands not encouragehissonbecause hethoughtthe grandfather intotheBighorn asaguide.Chesterdid wistful thathissonwillnotfollow hisfatherand greater andmore lastingdamage.He isperhapsabit and motorized travel cause far the effectsofindustry environment, theforce ofasinglemajorfloodand while horseandfoottravel doessomedamagetothe company andare notputoffby it.He admitsthat hunters andwildernessseekersexpecttofindabitof there usedtobe,butChesterconcedesthattoday’s There are than more peopleinthebackcountry Job–Coral area, have remained unchanged. virtually remote oftheBighorn,a few parts likethe ofacentury,quarters yet hefindsitremarkable that eastoftheBighorn overcountryside thepastthree- Chester haswitnessedvast changestothe rock formations. companies likeShell Canadamappedoutcropping neighbouring nationalpark lands,where intheBighornexpedite geologicalsurveys andinto and stringofpackhorsesto used hisexpertise fulfilled manyfishermen’s dreams. Chesteralso lake’s renowned salmon-likebulltrout musthave trail ridesintoPinto Lake,where fishingforthe Reservoir in1978,Chesterransix-daysummer involved hunters.Prior tothefillingofAbraham Not allofChester’s guidingandoutfitting the Siffleur, Cline,Job andCoralvalleys. tracks are onlyoccasionallyseentodayinplaceslike animalswhose the area, few have dwindledtoavery Mountain caribou,though,whilenever plentifulin population isholdingitsown orslowly increasing. population level andthatthemountaingoat OUTFITTERS 139 Campfire cooking at day’s end is especially fine when cooking at day’s Campfire is on the menu. mushrooms a bounty of fresh ANGERS R OREST F ARLY E R. E. Stevenson by in 1906 Reserve established Forest Mountain is partof the larger Rocky Wildland The Bighorn watershed. Since of Alberta as forested Slopes the Eastern to protect the federal government by Service. of the Alberta Forest primarily been the responsibility have Bighorn then, the lands of the 1910 forestry permanent offices in Calgary staff established In Rangers, many of and Edmonton. them temporaryhorse and wagon trails to their of season, began to build a network for the fire Their primary reserve. the forest lookouts throughout log cabin stations and fire remote water of logging to ensure and the regulation fire from of forests was the protection responsibility on the prairies. supplies vital to new settlements and agriculture and outfitter trails as they paths Nations existing First and rangers followed foresters Initially, and wildlife. Ranger cabins and forest water forests, mapped and took inventory Eastern Slopes of mountains. Most the foothills and points throughout soon located at strategic caches were fire evident of these old buildings are horseback ride apart. Some one day’s spaced about cabins were Vimy built in 1912. Although the Ram River, cabin on the South such as the Headwaters today, the new of cabin is a fine example has been replaced, River, cabin, on a tributaryWapiabi of the the sortof log cabin craftsmanship often found in early cabin construction. rangers spent much of their time maintaining trails As the pattern of stations became established, the headquarters. lookouts and their cabins to various and telephone lines that connected In number of portable sawmills supplying for a growing areas foothills, the rangers laid out logging and coal mines. Rangers also servedtimber for new and expanding settlements, railroads as game contact for trappers, outfitters and early recreationists the main government and were guardians wardens rangers and national park forest between A close liaison in places like the Bighorn. of the early Many boundaries. poaching activities along park and for fire watch” “shared a allowed and their pride in their work colourful characters who took great were wardens rangers and park like the lands of the Bighorn. large areas, of authority over the voice territories, and they were 140 OUTFITTERS The historicHeadwaters patrol cabinin1928.It stillstandsonabluffoverlooking nearthetrail theSouthRam junction to Whiterabbit Creek. OUTFITTERS 141 testament to the drive and spirit of Ed and of Ed and spirit the drive to testament McKenzie’s son Ron, by operated Now Mildred. the served has over of clients thousands West Trails backcountry or extended with day-long years trips country of the most spectacular into some along camps were Other Eastern Slopes. Alberta’s (or and at Job Creek at the top of Coral established often trips were Lake. Clients on extended Blue) to stay the rugged trail up Coral Creek taken over the crossing camp before and Diamonds at Hearts to camp at and riding on Pass Job breathtaking Lake. Blue picture-perfect Agency Wildlife and Fish Alberta’s many years For cutthroat Lake as a reservoir of pure operated Job 1970s the lake was in the early eggs. But trout opened to sport fishing, and it soon became an large and plentiful, The fish were mecca. angler’s only Not deep pink flesh. and had especially tasty, This but so was the scenery. was the fishing superb, unfortunate, as so many combination proved were that there visitors descended on the area around sometimes as many as 200 horses grazing severe suffered Pass Job Steep shores. the lake’s the added Finally, shores. as did the lake’s erosion, of helicopter fishing in the mid-1980s pressure the fisherybrought collapse and forced to near the banned around were official action. Horses to fishing in lake in 1986 and the lake was closed the lake’s a decade later, than more 1989. Now, and fishing has is still in a state of recovery shore their moved The McKenzies not been reinstated. km to the junction of Lake camp about seven Blue and clients Creek, and Job Creek (or Blue) Wilson continued to access the lake on day rides. hunters was the primaryGuiding part of the a government operations before McKenzies’ decision in the 1980s limited the all-important permits for bighorn sheep and elk in non-resident In 1954 a road was extended west of Nordegg as of Nordegg west was extended road 1954 a In – part of a continuing Point Whirlpool far as a to develop business interests area attempt by in Banff Pass the Howse across trading route horses and gear allowed road This Park. National to be trucked points into closer to take-off much 1957 the By Wildland. Bighorn the what is now was carved of the road further shore along the west to the Cline River Saskatchewan North the That year junction. Creek River/Coral of in the valley work to employed were McKenzies Ravio outfitter and guide Myrtle by Coral Creek and when of heavy rains was a year It (nee Sands). more for the valley came down the McKenzies that the new was supplies, they found road left their hobbled They washed out. extensively on the Kootenay pack and saddle horses to graze vehicle. by and continued to Nordegg Plains that it took them eight hours to recalls Mildred – far longer Nordegg to Coral Creek from drive 20 km down than it had taken them to ride about flooded Coral Creek. the dangerously outfitting and own got into their and Mildred Ed chance when a business deal guiding business by and the with another outfitter fell through obliged to accommodate hunters felt McKenzies They 1966. who had booked trips in the fall of gear and some horses and began borrowed tragedy struckThe next year their operations. burned their fire fledgling company when a forest ranch buildings and they lost newly acquired saddles and other equipment. and soon began again the McKenzies Undaunted, of Coral established a base camp at the junction River. Saskatchewan and the North Creek trail was born, and regular West Trails McKenzie’s The 1972. the site by in operation from rides were company and base camp continue to exist as ENZIE K C AMILY M F ER H

ILDRED AND A bright and lively girl from Crossfield caught Ed’s Crossfield girl from A bright and lively That in 1954. married and he and Mildred eye, the newlyweds made an epic fall hunting trip, year River, to the Blackstone Stauffer riding from a combination of truck trails, horse trails following got a sudden and and game trails. Mildred as the to life on the trail introduction thorough The life partnerworking of a guide and outfitter. as she was still out on the trail suited her, obviously in the and acting as camp cook for her son Ron sudden and after Ed’s 2000, six years year unexpected death. Ed grew up at Stauffer, just east of Rocky up at Stauffer, grew Ed a family steeped in the in House, Mountain of the outdoors, hunting and horses. His culture horse and wagon as far goods by father freighted of as the booming coal-mining town west fall, the extended McKenzie the In Nordegg. west travel family would load up their wagons and into good hunting territory to lay in the in order his learned from Ed Young supply of meat. winter’s and to to handle horses and guns earliest days how ruggedfind his way through terrain. As a young man in the early 1940s, Ed McKenzie, Ed in the early 1940s, man As a young up the husband, took McKenzie’s Mildred of backcountry work challenging in the guiding Mountain of Rocky west foothills and mountains outfitters for established worked first Ed At House. He family. the Sands Thompson and like Ken and worked license in 1948 guide’s gained his own the early 1950s, Thompson through for Ken and facilitate large geological helping to outfit and mapping landscapes were expeditions that House. Mountain of Rocky west outcrops M 142 OUTFITTERS McKenzie rest againstahorsetheyhave justpacked. On atypicaldayonthetrail, Mildred andEd a familyofninechildren onthefamilyranch, bound clients.She didallthesejobsaswell asraise Mildred forcamp- alsohadtobecomeentertainer Arainydaymeantthat clients feltout-of-sorts. being nurse,consolerandcampconfessorwhen camp cook.She oftenhadherrole extendedto included triporganizer, goodspurchaser andchief Mildred’s roles inthefamily outfittingbusiness possibly somedayriding. between camps,followed by adayatcampand usually onedayofridingwiththepackstring Creek and Job Lake. The patternoftravel is River, andfrom there uptheBrazeau River toJob over thehistoricBighorn Trail totheBlackstone or Crescent Falls ontheBighorn River andtravel Job Lake,ortheymaybeginat Tershishner Creek Coral Creek valley andover into Job Creek and Extended trips maytakeclientsupthespectacular Mildred establishedMcKenzie’s Trails West. oftheiroperations ever sinceEdintegral part and In additiontoguiding,trailridinghasbeenan equipment were coatedinice. snows were deepandtheropes, hobblesandpack endurance, ifthestreams were freezing over, the Removing campsofteninvolved extreme them inblizzards attheendofNovember. up springcampsinthesnow andsometimesend would openinMay andtheMcKenzies wouldset search of trophies. In earlieryears, grizzlyhunting into theJob Creek valley anditstributariesin McKenzie continuestooutfitandguideclients bighorn sheepandtwoelkpermits. Today Ron were decidedby bid,theMcKenzies acquired four business. When thenon-resident permitnumbers order toencouragemore outfittersintothe Adopt-a-Trail program. Creek trail,underthelocal Forest Service’s officially adoptedthemaintenanceofCoral In Ed’s memory, theMcKenzie familyhas escape forawhileandbecomerefreshed. beauty liketheBighorn Wildland, where theycan today’s fast-pacedlifeneedplacesofsolitudeand convinced thatpeoplesufferingthestresses of who wanttoseewildandscenicplaces.Mildred is to tourismandcouldcontinueattracttourists the province thathascontributed somuch –apart of protecting thismostwildandspectacularpart there isnow noobvious officialinterest in in theirbusiness.Mildred expresses disbeliefthat that theyloved somuchandthatsustainedthem protection forthebeautifulvalleys andmountains togain attended dozens ofmeetingstotry wrote dozens ofletterstogovernment officialsand the Bighorn Wildland. Over theyears thetwo association, theybothstrove fortheprotection of of theexecutive. Privately andthrough the Outfitters AssociationandwereAlberta members For years, Mildred andEd were involved inthe frontier is agreat consolationtoMildred. see andexperiencearemnant ofAlberta’s wild were inthefamilybusinessand abletoparticipate and organize thenexttrip. That allofthechildren with tripsbackhometoshop, packhorsepanniers tripsalternated were oftenablurofbackcountry at thepeakoftheirbusiness,summersandfalls charge oftriporganization. When sheandEd were the backcountry, butMildred wouldstillbein young, thecompanyoftenhired cookstowork in where shestilllives. When thechildren were very OUTFITTERS 143 A patient pack pony is entrusted with an awkward load, the head and rack of a bull moose, to carefully maneuver out of a rough piece of country. out of a rough maneuver of a bull moose, to carefully load, the head and rack A patient pack pony is entrusted with an awkward THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES PHILIP CLEMENT & ALAN ERNST THE VALUE18 OF WILD PLACES

Large and intact wilderness areas, especially those as aesthetically pleasing and accessible as the Bighorn Wildland, have become rare and valuable commodities in our increasingly developed world. A host of truly sustainable economic values can be realized from unimpaired ecosystems. These values run the gamut from basic ecosystem services such as water purification to entrepreneurial ecotourism ventures.

The unspoiled landscapes of the Bighorn, if managed for ecosystem protection, will provide diverse economic returns into the distant future. Such management will require public endorsement, political will and science-based decision making. 146 THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES water production, wildlife habitat,aircleansingand climatic stability. Wild landslikethisdivide between Coral andJob Creeks offercountless benefitsincludingaestheticrecreation, protecting thelandscape. existing wealth thatwouldbemaintained by through resource extraction,compared to the example, thepotentialwealth thatmightbecreated and soilformation.It isnow possibletoassess,for for suchintangibleresources asrecreation, aesthetics values economic analyseshave calculatedmonetary protect theresources onwhichitdepends.Recent sound environmental managementandmust resources, however, goodeconomics mustinclude Because alloftheseultimatelydependonnatural consumerism, corporationsandresource industries. economy isbasedonthestockmarket, is now centered oncashvalue. To mostpeople,our economics hasbecomemore narrowly definedand air, land,waterandnaturalresources. However, oikos the Greek oikos The root of botheconomy E OOYAND CONOMY comprises ourtotalenvironment, including meaning “house.”Conceptually, our and E ecology COLOGY comes from THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES 147 What value would this fishermanWhat value attribute to his experience at this splendid location on the Ram River? Albertans enjoy wilderness for its recreational, for its wilderness Albertans enjoy places go to wild We values. and aesthetic cultural turn We and bodies. our minds refresh and to relax inspiration and for adventure, to wilderness photographs, hike, ski, take We spiritual renewal. collect wild We wildlife. and study watch birds we these pleasures, enjoy To and hunt. berries, fish on facilities, deal of money spend a great Albertans fact, equipment and expertise. spent In in 1996, activities $1.2 billion on nature-based gross $1.5 billion to the contributing over supporting and domestic product 23,600 jobs in This kind of economic activity will the province. if tourism and recreational be sustained only Ecosystem- managed. appropriately activities are has become a viable based tourism management worldwide. economies to extractive alternative ILD W ALUE OF

V

HE LACES Economists have demonstrated that communities have Economists have wilderness areas adjacent to large protected multi-business communities become prosperous the high quality of attracted by because people are These people bring expertise, jobs, life in the region. contrast, By to the region. business skills and wealth a boom- economies follow resource-based extractive and lack a sustainable economic and-bust cycle Rocky Caroline, The communities of Sundre, basis. ideally situated are Nordegg and House Mountain if it is the long-term benefits of the Bighorn, to reap protected. appropriately Wild areas offer countless benefits to Albertans. offer countless areas Wild life-support essential provide areas Natural traditionally been not that have functions as part of the economic spectrum.considered that these recognizing are we however, Increasingly, and both precarious support systems are us with an provides Nature valuable. tremendously stabilizes clean water and air, adequate supply of nutrients required soil, cycles local climates, builds habitat for wildlife provides for food production, Wildland, Bighorn The and maintains biodiversity. vital watershed services. Much for example, provides Red and Saskatchewan North of the water in the and naturally systems is gathered River Deer these two rivers Together, purified in the Bighorn. two supply clean drinking water for approximately users in places like Edmonton, million downstream and Saskatoon. Deer Red T P 148 THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES enthusiast are endless. Outdoor programs are offered year round by localoperators. foreven themostextremeThe opportunities industries and canprovide asmany jobsasresource andagriculturecomparable tothatoftheforestry economic potentialofprotected landscapes is governmentAlberta studyfoundthatthe A1996 most oftheirprofits outsideAlberta. owned andpetroleum companiesdirect forestry through thelocalcommunity. By contrast,foreign- operated, andthebulkofincomecirculates and ecotourismbusinessesare locallyowned and that occasionallyoperateinthearea. Outfitting guiding andoutfittingbusinesses,aswell asothers The Bighorn approximately stillsupports 30 businesses. important guided huntingwasamongtheregion’s most to towns likeSundre andRocky Mountain House, brought boomconditions the petroleum industry inthearea.has alongandrespected Before history photographersandtourists geological surveyors, outfitting forhunters,anglers,mountaineers, for more thanahundred years. Guiding and provide employment andincometolocalresidents relied onthewildernesscharacterofarea to purposes forgenerations. These activitieshave economic, spiritual,recreational andtourism The Bighorn hasbeenusedforavariety of welfare oflocalpeople.” theenvironment andimprovesconserves the “responsible travel tonaturalareas, which application. The IESdefinesecotourismas narrowing itsdefinitionand standardizing its torescue ecotourism’strying integrityby the International Ecotourism Society (IES)are sceptical ofitsmeaning.Responsible groups like broadly appliedthatmanypeoplehave become time,itisalreadyour lexiconforonlyashort so Although thetermecotourism E COTOURISM has been a part of has beenapart THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES 149 For these two hikers, the superb views and totally For Creek Whiterabbit landscapes along wild and free monetary beyond value. are area, appropriate ecosystem-based management ecosystem-based appropriate area, these nodes. for developed must be requirements as the Bighorn for protection proposed The area size just about half the is 4000 sq km, or Wildland allocated area management forest of the adjacent Ltd., a medium-sized Products Forest to Sunpine approximately forestry company that employs number of people 1100 people. A comparable in and adjacent in ecotourism could be employed job variety greater with Wildland, to the Bighorn in subsidies, and resulting and fewer government far less ecological damage. treasure is an international Wildland The Bighorn and biological diversity. size because of its beauty, is important to Albertans of water as a source It and long-term economic opportunities. Protecting such as this one makes good large wilderness areas and protection appropriate With economic sense. can Bighorn management strategies, places like the contribute be maintained in a wilderness state and in perpetuity. to our economic well-being A large majority of visitors to the area favour low- favour A large majority of visitors to the area that will preserve the pristine impact development The local wilderness character of the region. of the two areas has identified government 11) as development (along Highway Bighorn will suitable ecotourism ventures nodes, where compatible with the to remain they are flourish. If Surrounded on three sides by national parks, the national parks, sides by three on Surrounded has escaped high-impact Wildland Bighorn and is uniquely positioned tourism development While Banff, to become an ecotourism mecca. heavily developed are Valley and the Bow Jasper is characterized the Bighorn and commercialized, developments small-scale, ecologically sensitive by unobtrusive wilderness enjoyment. that emphasize Tourists come to Albertato visit the spectacular Tourists for Demand parks. of our mountain wilderness has travel educational low-impact, nature-based, annually, of 10 to 15 per cent at rates been growing Costa Rica, some countries like worldwide. For the single most importantecotourism has become as is wilderness is increasing, of The value industry. is left. Alberta, what the need to protect however, small proportion of its a relatively has protected has government The provincial land base. cent of Alberta; only 4.5 per protected far more industries. resource extractive land is dedicated to survey demonstrated federal government A recent America million people in North that about three tourism in in nature-based interested alone are the Alberta Columbia. Until Albertaand British places the need to protect recognizes government demand the growing Wildland, like the Bighorn be met in for wilderness-based tourism will not this province. extraction industries, without the environmental the without industries, extraction these industries. with associated damage 150 THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES beautiful scenery offeredbeautiful scenery intheBighorn Wildland. in thecrispsnow asthisadventurer enjoys the Winter solitudeisbroken ofboots onlyby thecrunch base ifpossible.If not,remove ground cover in If fires must bebuilt,choosearock ormineral branches anddeadfall. dry the impactthatcomesfrom harvesting required, theymustbekeptsmalltominimize that have establishedfirepits, butiffires are outfitter campsthroughout theEasternSlopes warmth. There are literallyhundreds ofold there or isanemergencyrequiring drying backpacking stoves are betterthanfires unless stay more thantwonightsatanyonesite.Gas trampling ofvegetation around thesites,don’t bare ground, ifpossible. To reduce the 30 metres from shore lines,andestablishedon creeks andlakesforriver travellers, atleast Campsites needtobelocatedwell awayfrom treasured by adventuresome backpackers. randomcampingisaprivilege Backcountry to packoutgarbageandhumanwaste. vegetation atcampsiteswithnofire policiesand by wearing low-tread hikingboots,toprotect the are madeby recreationists toreduce wear ontrails wilderness areas inNorth America,seriousefforts accelerated over thelastdecade.In heavilyused travel ethicshas The evolution ofbackcountry by Don Wales AND W ILDERNESS R IVER T RAVEL E HC FOR THICS B ACKPACKING whatever ittakesto“travel without atrace.” traveller istodo backcountry goal ofevery helps prevent braidingoftrails. The ultimate existing trailsnomatterhow muddytheyget wilderness resources. When walking,stayingon be madetoreduce ourimpactonprecious In Alberta’s should EasternSlopes,effort every ofthehumus. become part outand rockslide ortalusslope,where theydry should bedepositedbetween thebouldersofa appropriate bacteria,andintheseareas waste high alpinedoesnotnecessarilycontainthe decomposition ofthewastes. The soilinthe for contains thebacteriaandfunginecessary wastes shouldbeburiedinsoilthatlikely Never washdishesinrivers orlakes.Human dumped well awayfrom anybodyofwater. in biodegradablesoapandthewashwater get consumedinafire. Dishes mustbewashed liners ofbackpackingfoodpackagesthatdon’t must bepackedout. This includesthefoil All garbage,includingbiodegradablematerial, unburnt wood,replace rocks andwaterthesite. with rocks. When finishedremove thestonesand sods, digdown tomineralsoilandringthepit THE VALUE OF WILD PLACES 151 We go to wilderness to refresh our minds and challenge our bodies, to experience adventure and to gain inspiration and spiritual renewal. and to gain inspiration adventure our minds and challenge our bodies, to experience go to wilderness to refresh We GLOSSARY OF GEOLOGICAL TERMS

BITUMINOUS COAL CORDILLERAN MOUNTAIN BELT FOLD Coal describes rocks made up of carbon-rich The major series of mountains that occurs on the A geological feature in which a rock mass has been material derived from former living plants and tectonically active western edge of North, Central bent or flexed into rounded shapes. The two most altered by burial (heat and pressure) over time. The and South America, and represents the interaction common kinds of folds are anticlines, which in general sequence of coal formation is peat, lignite, of tectonic plates of the Pacific Ocean with those cross-section look something like upside down U’s bituminous coal and anthracite; thus bituminous of the North and South American continents over or V’s, and synclines, which in cross-section look coal is an intermediate step in coalification. many millions of years. like right side up U’s or V’s.

CANADIAN SHIELD CRUSTAL SHORTENING FOOTHILLS GEOLOGICAL PROVINCE The large mass of igneous and metamorphic rocks The process by which rock masses have been In Alberta, the region of low, rounded hills of Precambrian age seen on the surface of the compressed by telescoping along thrust faults and bounded on the east by the Interior Plains and on North American continent. These rocks continue by folding. the west by the Front Ranges. as basement below the surrounding Phanerozoic sedimentary basins including the Western Canada DIP FORMATION Sedimentary Basin. The angle between a horizontal plane and a surface The basic unit for naming an assemblage of rocks. A such as a bedding plane or fault. formation normally represents a similar depositional CARBONATE ROCKS OR CARBONATES environment, can be shown on a geological map and Sedimentary rocks made up of the minerals calcite FAULT may be traceable into the subsurface. (calcium carbonate, or limestone) and/or dolomite A fracture in rock with some relative movement of (calcium and magnesium carbonate). rock masses on either side. Thrust faults or thrusts FRONT RANGES GEOLOGICAL PROVINCE are surfaces, usually slightly to steeply inclined, along In Alberta, the northwesterly trending, high-relief CLASTIC WEDGE which rocks have been displaced such that older ranges of the Rocky Mountains bounded by the Main The thickness of sedimentary rocks, mostly rocks overlie younger rocks. Normal faults occur Ranges to the west and the Foothills to the east. sandstones, siltstones and shales, eroded from where rocks on one side of a fault have been lowered rising mountain ranges that developed along the compared to rocks on the other side of the fault. tectonically active western edge of North America from mid-Mesozoic to early Cenozoic time.

152 GEOLOGICAL MAP MOUNTAIN BUILDING SHALE A special type of map that shows the kinds and The collection of geological processes, normally A fine-grained sedimentary rock formed from the distribution of geological material – normally rocks part of or related to plate tectonic interactions, by cementation of clay and silt. or sand, gravel and so on – that occurs at the surface. which new mountains are formed. Geological maps also show structural features such as SILTSTONE faults and folds. When you look at a geological map, PLATE TECTONICS A sedimentary rock made up of particles between it is as if you are suspended up in the air, looking The interactions of the approximately 16 rigid 1/16 and 1/256 mm in diameter. straight down at what you see on the surface. interlocking rock masses of the earth’s crust called plates. Plates are created at mid-ocean ridges, zones STRUCTURAL TRAPS IGNEOUS ROCK of crustal production, and are consumed at Subsurface geological features in which oil and/or Rock that has solidified or hardened upon cooling subduction zones such as those found today off the natural gas may have accumulated by being trapped from a molten mass known as a magma. west coasts of North, Central and South America. within anticlines or fault-bounded structures. A successful structural trap has porosity and KIMBERLITE PLATFORM WEDGE permeability (holes that are connected) in the A type of igneous rock that has come from deep The thickness of sedimentary rocks that was reservoir rocks, and some kind of seal – for example, within the Earth to the surface and may carry deposited on or beside the tectonically inactive a shale unit that oil and gas can’t pass through. diamonds that grew under conditions of very high western edge of the North American continent temperature and pressure. from Late Proterozoic to mid-Mesozoic time. STRUCTURE OR GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE The geometry of rocks – their surfaces, planes, MAIN RANGES GEOLOGICAL PROVINCE SANDSTONE lines, and contacts with other rocks. Geometry In Alberta and B.C., the northwesterly trending A sedimentary rock made up of particles, most involves describing and classifying; another mountain ranges that extend from the Continental commonly the mineral quartz, between 2 and important part of geological structure is the study Divide on the west side to the Front Ranges on the 1/16 mm in diameter. of the origin of geological structures. east side. SEISMIC STUDIES U-SHAPED VALLEY MASTER FAULT OR SOLE FAULT Studies carried out by earth scientists to determine A valley with steep upper walls that grade A major thrust fault normally found at depth the kinds and structural nature of rocks below the downward into a flat, wide valley floor; such below the surface and consisting of a collection of surface. Energy from explosives or from large valleys are usually eroded/excavated by ice. several to many thrust faults joining at depth to vibrating hammers is sent into the ground at one form one continuous fault, the master fault. or more points, and the energy that is reflected WESTERN CANADA SEDIMENTARY BASIN back to the surface from rocks at depth is recorded The thickness of sedimentary rocks that was METAMORPHIC ROCK on a number of instruments widely spaced away deposited on the igneous and metamorphic Rock formed without melting from a pre-existing from the explosive or hammer source. basement rocks of the Canadian Shield and rock in response to major changes in temperature and underlies Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba. pressure, normally well below the Earth’s surface.

153 KEY REFERENCES

CHAPTER 2 Alberta Forestry, Lands and Wildlife. n.d. Forman, R. T. T., D. S. Friedman, D. Fitshenry, Alberta Energy and Natural Resources. n.d. Protected areas in Alberta’s mountain forests. J. D. Martin, A. S. Chen, and L. E. Alexander. Forest Land Use Zones. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Edmonton, AB: Alberta Forestry, Lands and 1997. Ecological effects of roads. In Habitat Energy and Natural Resources. Wildlife Forest Service. fragmentation and infrastructure, edited by K. Canters, 40-54. Delft, Netherlands: Ministry of Alberta Energy and Natural Resources. 1977. A Alberta Forestry, Lands and Wildlife. 1987. Alberta’s Transport, Public Works and Water Management. policy for resource management of the Eastern Bighorn Wildland Recreation Area. Edmonton, AB: Slopes. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Energy and Alberta Forestry, Lands and Wildlife. Government of Alberta. 1986. Press release: Natural Resources. Nordegg–Red Deer River Integrated Resource Plan Alberta Snowmobile Association. 2001. approved: Bighorn Wildland Recreation Area Alberta Energy and Natural Resources. 1984. A 2001/2002 Alberta guide to snowmobiling. announced. Edmonton, AB: Government of Alberta. policy for resource management of the Eastern Edmonton, AB: Alberta Snowmobile Association. Slopes. Revised 1984. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Jalkotzy, M. G., P. I. Ross, and M. D. Nasserden. Energy and Natural Resources. Alberta Sustainable Resource Development. 1997. The effects of linear developments on wildlife: 2002. The Forest Land Use Zones of the Bighorn A review of selected scientific literature. Calgary, Alberta Environment. 1975. Policy statement: Backcountry. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Sustainable AB: Arc Wildlife Services. The development of the Eastern Slopes. Resource Development. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Environment. Sierra Club. 2001. Off-road use of motorized Bentz, J. A., A. Saxena, and T. T. Normand. vehicles. Sierra Club Conservation Policies. Alberta Environment Conservation Authority. 1995. Environmentally significant areas Accessed December 4, 2001 from http:// 1974. Land use and resource development in the inventory: Foothills natural region, Alberta. www.sierraclub.org/policy/conservation/offroad.asp. Eastern Slopes: Report and recommendations. Prepared by Geowest Environmental Consultants Edmonton, AB: Alberta Environment Ltd. for Alberta Environmental Protection. Soule, M. E., and J. Terborgh (eds.). 1999. Conservation Authority. Continental conservation. Washington, D.C.: Dobson, S., and J. Thompson. 1996. Parks and Island Press. Alberta Forestry. 1986. Nordegg–Red Deer River protected areas: Their contribution to the Alberta Sub-Regional Integrated Resource Plan. economy. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Environmental Sparrow, D. Letter to V. Pharis, AWA Director, Edmonton, AB: Alberta Energy and Natural Protection. October 26, 1992. Resources.

154 Sweetgrass Consultants Ltd. 1997. Chinnappa, C. C., and B. Hallworth. 1997. Kolar, B., and A. Brawn (eds.). 1986. Eastern Environmentally significant areas of Alberta. Plants of Kananaskis Country. Calgary, AB: Slopes wildlands: Our living heritage. Calgary, AB: Prepared for Alberta Environmental Protection. University of Calgary Press. Alberta Wilderness Association, 119p.

Timoney, K. 1998. Environmentally significant Gadd, B. 1986. Handbook of the Canadian Mussieux, R., and M. Nelson. 1998. A traveller’s areas inventory of the Rocky Mountain natural Rockies. Jasper, AB: Corax Press. guide to geological wonders in Alberta. Calgary, AB: region of Alberta. Prepared by Treeline Ecological Federation of Alberta Naturalists and Canadian Research for Alberta Environmental Protection. Hart, E. J. 1979. Diamond hitch. Banff, AB: Society of Petroleum Geologists, 254p. Summerthought Ltd. CHAPTERS 3 TO 11 Smith, G. G. 1989. Coal resources of Canada: Alberta Energy and Natural Resources. 1981. McCart, J., and P. McCart. 2000. On the road Geological survey of Canada, Paper 89-4, 146p. Ecological land classification for Red Deer–James with David Thompson. Calgary, AB: Fifth House and Ram–Clearwater. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Ltd. CHAPTER 13 Energy and Natural Resources. Kershaw, L., J. Gould, D. Johnson, and J. Morgantini, L. 1995. The Ya Ha Tinda: An Lancaster. 2001. Rare vascular plants of Alberta. Alberta Forest Service. 1973. Foothills resource ecological overview. Ottawa: Parks Canada. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Native Plant Council allocation studies for Red Deer Drainage District; and University of Alberta Press. Clearwater Drainage District; Ram Drainage CHAPTER 12 District; Upper Brazeau Drainage District; Hamilton, W. N., M. C. Price, and C. W. Moss, E. H. 1983. Flora of Alberta. 2d ed. Cline–Siffleur Drainage District; North Langenberg (compilers). 1999. Geological map of Revised by J. G. Packer. Toronto: University of Saskatchewan Drainage District. Edmonton, AB: Alberta: Alberta Geological Survey, Alberta Energy Toronto Press. Alberta Forest Service. and Utilities Board, Map No. 236, scale 1:1,000,000. Scotter, G. W., and H. Flygare. 1986. Wildflowers Alberta Forestry, Lands and Wildlife. 1986. Jones, P. B. 1988. Structural geology of the Alberta of the Canadian Rockies. Edmonton, AB: Hurtig Rocky–North Saskatchewan Sub-Regional Foothills Front in the Calgary region: Field trip Publishers Ltd. Integrated Resource Plan. Edmonton, AB: guidebook. Calgary, AB: Prepared for the Alberta Forestry, Lands and Wildlife. Canadian Society of Petroleum Geologists, 32p.

Kolar, B., and A. Brawn (eds.). 1986. Eastern Jones, P. B., and R. H. Workum. 1978. Geological Slopes wildlands: Our living heritage. Calgary, AB: guide to the Central Foothills and Rocky Mountains Alberta Wilderness Association. of Alberta. Calgary, AB: Canadian Society of Petroleum Geologists, 61p.

155 CHAPTER 14 Gardiner, K., K. Fitzsimmons, and D. CHAPTER 15 Allen, J. H. Personal communication, 2002. Rystephanuk. 2001. Cooperative Fisheries Andersen, R. R. 1970. Alberta Stoney (Assiniboine) Inventory Program. Catalogue of sample sites origins and adaptations: A case for reappraisal. St. Allan, J. H. 1980. Life history notes on the Dolly conducted in 1998/99 and 1999/2000. Rocky John’s, NF: Memorial University. Varden Char (Salvelinus malma) in the Upper Mountain House, AB: Alberta Conservation Clearwater River, Alberta. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Association Report. Reeves, B. Personal communication, January, 2003. Energy and Natural Resources, Fish and Wildlife. Gardiner, K., and S. Herman. 2001. Upper Snow, Chief J. 1977. These mountains are our Berry, D. K. 1994. Alberta’s bull trout North Saskatchewan River bull trout assessment. sacred places: The story of the Stoney Indians. management and recovery plan. Edmonton, AB: Rocky Mountain House, AB: Alberta Toronto: Samuel-Stevens. Alberta Environmental Protection, Fish and Conservation Association Report. Wildlife Services, Fisheries Management. De Paola, P. Personal communication, January, Nelson, J. S., and M. J. Paetz. 1992. The fishes of 2003. Berry, D. K. 1995. Alberta’s golden trout Alberta. Edmonton, AB: University of Alberta management plan. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Press and University of Calgary Press. Getty, W. E. A. 1973. Perception as an agent of Environmental Protection, Natural Resources sociocultural change for the Stoney Indians of Services, Fisheries Management. Parks and Protected Areas Publication #1/800. Alberta. Master’s thesis, University of Calgary.

Brewin, M. K. 1991. Assessment of bull trout Rees, K. 1992. Clearwater bull trout project: Jonker, P. M. 1983. Stoney history notes. Morley, (Salvelinus confluentus) spawning activity using Interim report. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Forestry, AB: Chiniki Band. redd counts in the Upper Clearwater River. Lands and Wildlife, Fish and Wildlife. Edmonton, AB: Alberta Enhancement Fund, Kariel, P., and E. Schneider. 1995. Hiking Alberta Fish and Wildlife. Salt, R., and B. Wilk. 1966. Birds of Alberta. Alberta’s David Thompson Country. Calgary, AB: Edmonton, AB: Queens Printer. Greenways Press. Brown, R. S., and W. C. Mackay. 1995. Spawning ecology of cutthroat (Oncorhynchus Tebby, C. D. 1974. Fishes of Abraham Lake Kennedy, Michael S. (ed.). 1961. The clarki) in the Ram River, Alberta. Canadian (Reservoir) and the upper North Saskatchewan Assiniboines. Norman, OK: University of Journal of Fish and Aquatic Science 52:983-92. River, Alberta. Master’s thesis, University of Alberta. Oklahoma Press.

156 Reddekopp, G.N. 1997. The Wesley Stoney Spry, I. (ed). 1968. The papers of the Palliser Covault, J. 1992. Wilderness: Its role in our claim to the Kootenay Plains. Edmonton, AB: Expedition 1857-1860. Toronto: The Champlain economy. In The economic value of wilderness: Alberta Aboriginal Affairs. Society. Proceedings of the conference. Jackson, WY: United States Department of Agriculture. Bradshaw, D. 1999. Our voices echo in Bighorn CHAPTER 17 Country. Edmonton Journal. March 14, 1999. Hart, E. J. 1980. A hunter of peace: Mary T. S. Dobson, S., and J. Thompson. 1996. Parks and Edmonton, AB. Schäffer’s Old Indian trails of the Canadian Rockies. protected areas: Their contribution to the Alberta Banff, AB: Whyte Museum of the Canadian economy – A discussion paper. Edmonton, AB: CHAPTER 16 Rockies. Alberta Environmental Protection. Belyea, B. 1994. Columbia journals: David Thompson. Montreal: McGill-Queen’s University Press. Hart, E. J. 1979. Diamond hitch. Banff, AB: Environment Canada. 2000. The importance of Summerthought Ltd. nature to Canadians: The economic significance Karamitsanis, A. 1991. Place names of Alberta. of nature-related activities. Ottawa: Environment Vol. 1. Mountains, mountain parks and foothills. Mckenzie, M. Personal communication, 2002. Canada. Calgary, AB: University of Calgary Press. Sands, C. Personal communication, 2002. Scott, A. C. 1992. Valuing wilderness benefits: McCart, J., and P. McCart. 2000. On the road with Alternatives to economic measures. In The David Thompson. Calgary, AB: Fifth House. CHAPTER 18 economic value of wilderness: Proceedings of the Bingham, G., R. Bishop, M. Brody, D. Bromley, conference. Jackson, WY: United States Schäffer, M. 1911. Old Indian trails of the E. Clark, W. Cooper, R. Costanza, T. Hale, G. Department of Agriculture. Canadian Rockies. Republished as A hunter of Hayden, S. Kellert, R. Norgaard, B. Norton, J. peace, 1980. Banff, AB: Whyte Museum of the Payne, C. Russell, and G. Suter. 1995. Issues in Turner, R. K., W. N. Adger, and R. Brouwer. Canadian Rockies. ecosystem valuation: Improving information for 1998. Ecosystem services value, research needs, decision making. Ecological Economics 14:73-90. and policy relevance: A commentary. Ecological Southesk, Earl of. 1875. Saskatchewan and the Economics 25:61-65. Rocky Mountains: A diary and narrative of travel, Costanza, R., R. d’Arge, R. de Groot, S. Farber, sport, and adventure, during a journey through M. Grasso, B. Hannon, K. Limburg, S. Naeem, the Hudson’s Bay Company’s territories, in 1859 R. V. O’Neill, J. Paruelo, R. G. Raskin, P. Sutton, and 1860. Facsimile edition, 1969. Edmonton, and M. van den Belt. 1997. The value of the AB: M. G. Hurtig, Ltd. world’s ecosystem services and natural capital. Nature 387:253-60.

157 PHOTO CREDITS

Alberta Wilderness Association sincerely appreciates the generosity of the following photographers who have contributed to this book. Some are amateurs, others professionals, all share a passion for the wilderness and wildlife of Alberta.

MARK ARNESON HERBERT KARIEL DAVID REID Page 103. Page 29. Page 71.

RAYMOND BLANCHARD AYNE YNCH W L IAN ROSS Page 117. Pages 106, 108 and 121. Page 107. CHRIS BRUUN ILL C EAN B M L CHESTER SANDS Page 36 centre. Pages 2 centre, 14 left, 14 centre, 14 right, 15, Pages 28 and 137. 16, 19, 20, 118 left and 120. ALAN CAREY CYNDI SMITH Page 114. CHRISTYANN OLSON Page 111 right. Pages 8 centre, 8 right, 44 right, 46, 47 upper, 50 NIGEL DOUGLAS both, 51, 64, 118 centre, 119, 123, 125, 126 left, TAMAINI SNAITH Pages 22 centre and 26. 130 lower, 133, 134 left, 134 centre, 134 right, Pages 8 left, 45, 49, 72 left, 75 right and 94 ANNETTE ELLIOTT 135, 138 lower and 139. right. Front Cover left. Page 23. RICHARD PHARIS DON WALES ALAN ERNST Pages 1, 2 left, 2 right, 4, 5, 21, 22 left, 22 right, Pages 60 left, 60 centre, 60 right, 61, 62 both, Pages 3, 6, 7, 18, 30 centre, 30 right, 35, 44 24, 25, 27, 30 left, 31, 33, 34 left, 34 right, 36 63, 72 centre, 72 right, 73, 74, 75 left, 76 left, centre, 65, 66 left, 66 centre, 66 right, 67, 68, left, 36 right, 37, 38, 39, 40 left, 41, 42, 44 left, 76 centre, 76 right, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 95, 98 69, 70, 94 left, 100 upper, 101 right, 104 centre, 47 lower, 48, 52 left, 52centre, 52 right, 53, 54, and 100 lower. 104 right, 105, 109, 110 upper, 111 left, 112, 55, 56, 57 right, 58, 59, 82 left, 82 centre, 82 right, 83, 84, 89, 90, 91 left, 91 right, 92, 93, 94 CLEVE WERSHLER 115, 118 right, 122, 126 centre, 130 upper, 132, Pages 104 left, 113 and 124. 144 left, 144 centre, 145, 148 and 150. All on centre, 96, 97 left, 97 right, 99, 101 left, 102 Back Cover. upper, 102 lower, 110 lower, 126 right, 127, ARCHIVES OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES 129, 131, 138 upper, 144 right, 146, 147, 149 Page 128. JOYCE GOULD and 151. Front Cover centre and right. Page 57 left. UNKNOWN VIVIAN PHARIS Pages 136, 140 and 142. PETER JONES Pages 32, 40R, 43 both and 143. Page 88.

158 AUTHORS’ BIOGRAPHIES

ROD BURNS is a fisheries manager with Alberta ALAN ERNST was born in Switzerland and his ROGER MACQUEEN is an emeritus scientist Sustainable Resource Development, Fish and primary career was in international banking. In 1997 at the Geological Survey of Canada, having Wildlife Division. An avid birder for many years, Alan and his wife, Madeleine, decided to combine a received his B.Sc. and M.Sc. from the University Rod is keenly interested in the protection of the love for nature with a new business challenge, an of Toronto and his Ph.D. in geology from Bighorn Wildland as prime wildlife habitat. ecotourism venture called Aurum Lodge. The David Princeton. Many parts of Canada, Europe and the Thompson Highway through the Bighorn area was Middle East have known his geological scrutiny, JULIE COOK grew up in rural Ontario and in chosen as the site for the lodge because this was the and he has published more than a hundred papers on aspects of geology. He has taught at the 1968 moved to Alberta, where her earlier- only accessible area in the Eastern Slopes that had Universities of Waterloo and Toronto. Roger discovered love of nature could flourish. Between not been significantly affected by industry and served for five years as editor of the journal 1989 and 1993, she and her husband were development. Geoscience Canada and is currently associate editor campground caretakers in the Nordegg area, and of a Geoscience Canada series of papers on the Kootenay Plains became their focus for nature ELAINE GORDON attended the University of Geology and Wine. study and photography. Alberta, gaining a B.Sc. in plant systematics and an M.Sc. in plant systematics and ecology. She teaches NDY ARSHALL is a former Alberta daily DOROTHY DICKSON was born in Australia botany, plant identification and environmental A M newspaper journalist living in Cochrane. He founded and educated in England before coming to Canada studies, and is developing a series of books and and operated for five years two weekly newspapers: the with her husband and children in 1963. Dorothy has workshops on basic plant identification for Airdrie Echo and the Rocky View Times. Andy is a been active with AWA since 1971 and remains active children and adults. frequent contributor to the Wild Lands Advocate, the with national and local conservation groups. She journal of Alberta Wilderness Association. served as vice-chair of the Public Advisory Committee to the Environment Conservation Authority, and for her efforts, received awards and JOYCE MCCART has a B.A. in Philosophy, a lifetime memberships from the Canadian Nature B.Ed. in English and a background in technical Federation and the Federation of Alberta Naturalists. writing. Her recent interest in Canadian history She has travelled in the Bighorn for 30 years. resulted in the publication of the travel guide On the road with David Thompson.

159 LUIGI MORGANTINI gained one Ph.D. in ROBERT STEVENSON was raised in the DON WALES is a recently retired natural science from the University of Rome and a second Calgary area and attended university in Idaho, sciences instructor from Red Deer College. Don is a Ph.D. from the University of Alberta in wildlife obtaining an M.Sc. in forestry. Bob worked for the life-long avid backpacker, cross-country skier and productivity and management. He has worked in Canadian Forest Service in Alberta and the N.W.T. kayaker. He has circumnavigated Baffin Island and environmental research and management for more before transferring to the Alberta Fish and Wildlife explored much of the Labrador coastline by kayak. than 25 years. Luigi is currently the chief biologist Division in 1980. There he served as director of Over the years Don has guided multi-day and forest ecologist coordinator for Weyerhaeuser Information and Extension Services; he retired in backpacking trips for Canadian Nature Tours and Canada and is an adjunct professor at the University 1992 from his position as head of Commercial Blackfeather. He has extensive knowledge of the of Alberta. He is the recipient of Alberta’s Emerald Wildlife. Bob remains active in researching Alberta’s Bighorn Wildland and neighbouring landscapes. Award for life-long environmental stewardship and forestry and wildlife management history and in of a Wildlife Habitat Canada award for leadership in taking backcountry horse trips to pursue his hobby KENNETH ZELT obtained a B.Sc. and an caribou conservation. of repeat photography of the province’s landscape. M.Sc. from the University of Alberta in zoology and aquatic ecology. He then worked as a fisheries VIVIAN PHARIS holds degrees in biology and HEINZ UNGER was born in Vienna, Austria biologist with the Alberta government until his education and is a veteran environmental and is a professional engineer. Heinz has more than retirement in 2000. Ken’s other primary interest is advocate. Vivian and her husband, Richard, have 35 years of Canadian and international experience horses and travelling with them in the travelled the Bighorn by foot and by horse for in water resources engineering, including working backcountry. He has served as president and on the more than 30 years. They are both past-presidents for the environment department of the World Bank boards of several provincial equestrian groups and of Alberta Wilderness Association and Vivian is in Washington D.C. Locally, he has recently joined is currently vice-president of recreation for the currently a director of the Association. the Board of Directors of Alberta Wilderness Alberta Equestrian Federation. Association and is active on the Basin Council.

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This book has been designed and written to tell the story of the Bighorn Wildland. It is also an invitation to become more personally involved in its destiny.