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Blacktailbutte.Pdf the future is free TETONCLIMBING.COM Tetonclimbing.com is an experiment in what we believe is the future of climbing guidebooks. We will continue to bring you updated topos for all the Jackson Hole Area sport climbing areas, and we will continue to do it for free. Please visit the site often, click on our sponsors, and if you feel the urge, donate to the cause. Whether it be $1 or one t-shirt, every little bit helps. viva la revolucion! NOTE: Some of the areas in this guide lie within Wilderness Area boundaries and/or National Park. Please obey all regulations specific to the area you are climbing. !!! ROCK CLIMBING IS AN INHERENTLY DANGEROUS ACTIVITY !!! While the author of this guide has made every attempt to produce a highly accurate guide, it is only that. A guide. It is NOT an instruction manual. It is the users’ responsibilty to utilize this information in a responsible and safe manner. In plainspeak...You were born with a brain, do your best to use it. TETONCLIMBING.COM TETONCLIMBING.COM YELLOWSTONE N.P. MAP NOT TO SCALE 89 IDAHO WYOMING 9 MORAN GRAND TETON JUNCTION TOGWOTEE N.P. 2 26 PASS Driggs, ID GTNP VISITOR CENTER 1 TO SLIDE MOOSE LAKE 7 KELLY 22 NATIONAL ELK REFUGE Victor, ID 8 TETON VILLAGE TETON PASS WILSON JACKSON 26 HOBACK JUNCTION 3 4 10 5 ALPINE 191 HOBACK CANYON6 189 SNAKE RIVER CANYON 1 • Blacktail Butte 6 • Hoback Shield 2 • Boulder Island, Bouldertown 7 • Tram Area/Rocksprings Buttress Jenny Lake Boulders 8 • Teton Pass/The Reef 3 • Rodeo Wall 9 • Teton Canyon 4 • Montgomery Cliff 10 • Cueva de las cabras 5 • Heechee Wall TETONCLIMBING.COM Blacktail Butte: Located 13.7 miles north of the town of Jackson on HWY 89. Park in the pullout located on the east side of the road. C D A B A - Lower Blacktail - North Wall C - Upper Blacktail B - Lower Blacktail - Main Wall D - The Old Mill B xx xx 4 xx xx xx xx xx 8 3 7 5 1 2 6 1) Left Overs ** - 5.10d - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 2) As You Wish - 5.11d - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 3) Inconceivable - 5.11a - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 4) Inconceivably Busted ** - 5.10c - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 5) Raven Crack - 5.9+ - Gear, no anchor 6) Do the Right Thing ** - 5.11c - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 7) Waterstreak **** - 5.12b - bolts, 3 bolt anchor 8) Waterstreak Direct - 5.12d - bolts, 2 bolt anchor the future is free TETONCLIMBING.COM xx B xx xx xx xx 10 11 12 9 13 14 9) Waterstreak **** - 5.12b - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 10) Waterstreak Direct - 5.12d - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 11) Arch Direct ** - 5.12d - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 12) Arch **** - 5.12a - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 13) Kehoe Cling * - 5.12c - Gear, no anchor 14) Jingus Road * - 5.12b - bolts, 2 bolt anchor Bolt Route - This was probably first done by John Gill as a boulder problem A xx Blacktail North: From the parking lot, follow a faint trail north, contouring around the Butte. After 100m, turn right up the Butte. 19) Junior ** - 5.11a - Bolts, 2 bolt anchor 20) Stiffy ** - 5.11a - Bolts, 2 bolt anchor 19 20 the future is free TETONCLIMBING.COM B xx xx xx xx xx xx 12 18 17 16 13 14 15 12) Arch **** - 5.12a - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 13) Kehoe Cling * - 5.12c - Gear, no anchor 14) Jingus Road * - 5.12b - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 15) Higher Education ** - 5.12a - bolts, 2 bolt anchor 16) Diagonal Crack * - 5.11b/c -gear, 2 bolt anchor 17) Time Flies When You’re Alive ** - 5.10c - bolts - 2 bolt anchor 18) Right Crack - 5.9+ - gear - no anchor Bolt Route - This was probably first done by John Gill as a boulder problem xx D The Old Mill - From the parking lot, follow the xx trail south. Proceed past the Upper Blacktail xx turn up the talus. Continue straight for 20m. 21) Go You Huskies *** - 5.11d - bolts - 2 BA 22) State and Main ** - 5.11a - bolts - 2 BA 23) Gift for Friction * - 5.12b - bolts - 2 BA 21 23 22 the future is free TETONCLIMBING.COM Upper Blacktail: Follow the dirt trail south out of the parking lot for 20 minutes, passing through an aspen grove and crossing a small stream. Continue until you find an obvious trail through the scree field. This leads you to the base of the Middle Wall. C xx xx 27 29 25 26 28 24) Power Trip * - 5.9+ - bolts, 2 bolt anchor - (NOT SHOWN) 25) Mac 10 - 5.10c - 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor 26) Blitzkrieg ** - 5.11d R - 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor 27) Crackin’ the Cherry *** - 5.11a - 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor 28) Muy Macho *** - 5.10c/d - 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor 29) Tec DC-9 - 5.10a R - 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor 200 meters left of #2 lies the SOUTH WALL All these climbs are runout, poorly protected and loose. They are all highly unrecommended. (Listed Right to Left) 30) Rock Candy Nugget - 5.10b - 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor 31) Americana - 5.12a R - 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor 32) Disconnected - 5.11c R - 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor 33) Graceland *** - 5.11b/c - bolts, 2 BA 34) General Crook *** - 5.10a - bolts/gear, 2 BA 35) Goldstein - 5.11d - bolts, 2 BA 36) Winston - 5.11c - bolts, 2 BA 37) Strong Arm Direct - 5.10c -bolts/gear, 2BA the future is free TETONCLIMBING.COM C 33 34 35 36 34 38) Strong Arm - 5.11b/c - 5 bolts, fixed head/Gear 39) Wild at Heart **** - 5.11b - Bolts, 2 BA 40) Senior-itis ** - 5.10a - bolts/gear - !!CHOPPED!! C xx xx 38 37 39 40 the future is free.
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