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Setting Place at the Table: the Cultural Biogeography of Mole

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Setting Place at the Table: the Cultural Biogeography of Mole SETTING PLACE AT THE TABLE: THE CULTURAL BIOGEOGRAPHY OF MOLE A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE DIVISION OF THE UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I AT MĀNOA IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF ARTS IN GEOGRAPHY December 2016 by David Strauch Thesis Committee: Lyndon Wester, Chairperson Mary McDonald Matt McGranaghan Keywords: Mole, Cultural biogeography, Mesoamerica, Transdomestication, Mexican foodways, Scales of analysis, Iconic foods Strauch: Setting Place at the Table ii Abstract The celebration of mole as the national dish of Mexico draws explicitly on the biogeography of its ingredients, often read as a proxy for the cultural origins of the national character. Mole is represented as coextensive with the Republic, complex, and a synthesis of New World and Old World elements. This thesis assesses these claims with attention to the spatial and taxonomic scales at which they are made, and discusses the implications of scale in narratives of place. A combination of quantitative and qualitative methodologies draws on the dual traditions that (in)form cultural biogeography, and reveals connections between levels of generalization and narrative implication. Determining the biogeographical value of ingredients is found to be complicated by ambiguous taxa, culinary plant complexes, and varied ways of counting. The predominant discourse of mole is found to rely on ahistorical biogeographical essentialism, which supports dichotomous constructions of nationalism, while greater attention to the particular cultural biogeographies of the foodplants, at finer scales, undermines Eurocentric narratives and recognizes the agency of multiple indigenous cultures in transdomesticating plants across varied neotropical ecosystems. Ultimately, mole can be considered representative of Mexico not so much for a single determined identity as for the complexity of its diverse and ongoing interpretations. Strauch: Setting Place at the Table iii Table of contents Abstract ....................................................................................................................................................ii List of tables............................................................................................................................................iv List of figures........................................................................................................................................... v Acknowledgements...............................................................................................................................vi I. Introduction............................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Geographies of food......................................................................................................................... 2 1.2 Speaking of mole .............................................................................................................................. 5 1.3 Getting a taste of mole..................................................................................................................... 6 1.4 Research questions........................................................................................................................... 7 1.5 Mixed methods................................................................................................................................. 8 II. The spatial salience of mole .................................................................................................. 10 2.1 Dishing up the nation .................................................................................................................... 10 2.2 Feeding the cosmic race................................................................................................................. 11 III. Placing mole........................................................................................................................... 13 3.1 The republic of moles .................................................................................................................... 13 3.2 Making sense of difference ........................................................................................................... 21 3.3 Greater Mexico, Greater Mesoamerica........................................................................................ 22 3.4 The rainbow of mole...................................................................................................................... 23 3.5 Other local traditions of mole....................................................................................................... 26 IV. The complexity of mole........................................................................................................ 28 4.1 Counting ingredients..................................................................................................................... 28 4.2 The complexity of complexity ...................................................................................................... 32 V. Weighing ingredients ........................................................................................................... 35 5.1 Taxonomic scales............................................................................................................................ 37 5.2 Ambiguous ingredients and culinary plant complexes ........................................................... 40 5.3 Assessing salience .......................................................................................................................... 42 VI. Biogeography in the scales ................................................................................................. 47 6.1 Three cultural keystone species ................................................................................................... 47 6.2 Aspects of Mesoamerican plant domestication ......................................................................... 53 6.3 Essentializing biogeography ........................................................................................................ 56 6.4 Biogeography and cultural agency.............................................................................................. 57 VII. Conclusions ......................................................................................................................... 59 7.1 The importance of being ambiguous........................................................................................... 59 7.2 One or several moles...................................................................................................................... 59 7.3 Culinary agency and artistry........................................................................................................ 60 Appendix A: Interviews............................................................................................................ 62 Appendix B: Quantitative analysis of mole distribution and composition....................... 63 References ................................................................................................................................... 68 Strauch: Setting Place at the Table iv List of tables Table 3.1. Mexican states with number of associated Spanish-language websites concerning mole.............15 Table 3.2. Subregionalizations of Oaxaca (“√” indicates inclusion in source). .................................................25 Table 3.3. Moles with place-based names in Muñoz Zurita 2012. .......................................................................27 Table 4.1. Number of ingredients of mole distributed by type. ...........................................................................29 Table 5.1. Mole Recipe from Coe and Coe (2007:215) with weights and origins of ingredients. ...................36 Table 6.1. Forest zones per Linares and Bye 2012; species used in or with mole are in bold. .........................55 Table A.1 Mole experts consulted in Mexico, Fall 2007. .......................................................................................62 Table B.1. State mole association dataset field names and types. ........................................................................63 Table B.2. Descriptive statistics for number mole association for all Mexican states, and states divided into central and peripheral groups.........................................................................................................................64 Table B.3. One-sample test comparing median associations of moles in central states with overall median value....................................................................................................................................................................65 Table B.4. Two-sample Mann-Whitney test ranking associations of moles in central states with those in peripheral states. ...............................................................................................................................................65 Table B.6. Ingredients dataset field names and types...........................................................................................66 Table B.7. Descriptive statistics for number of ingredients of mole distributed by type .................................67 Strauch: Setting Place at the Table v List of figures Figure 3.1. Mexican states, showing
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