Essential Eats & Drinks

TASTE OYSTER TASTING WITH RENO 12 MAGAZINE ESSENTIAL CHEFS EATS & SNACK DRINKS FOOD SECRETS

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RM0506_001-011_TOCLetter_V1.indd 1 4/13/17 4:24 PM EDITOR’S LETTER Magazine made over

ou could say that I’ve been writing about food for a long time. My sister used to journal and would encourage me to do Ythe same. Instead of writing about my life, turn to page 12 to find out if your favorite I’d find myself writing about dinner, lunch chef is divulging his or her dirty little secret. TASTE OYSTER TASTING WITH RENO — anything — but especially new foods I We’ll also be hosting one event per issue 12 MAGAZINE ESSENTIAL CHEFS EATS & SNACK DRINKS FOOD discovered while traveling. I later became a as part of our relaunch effort, so we have a SECRETS food writer, wine writer and then married a story on oysters that previews Oysters on the chef, so I’ve had plenty of material. Terrace June 5 at Rapscallion Seafood House www.RenoMagazine.com $5.00 US But my education began in my mother’s & Bar. Oysters are interesting little creatures. May/June 2017

kitchen when I was a child. Mom is an Did you know they change gender once or ON THE COVER: accomplished home cook. Holidays are always more during their lifetimes? I’m excited The Atomic Burger at spent in dayslong prep and cooking — the about these events — they’ll be unique Midtown Eats is one holiday table laden with dishes that come back experiences that members of the community of our 12 things you to visit each year like old friends. I always can attend to learn a new skill or taste must eat and drink in Reno. loved to help — especially with the baking something spectacular. DAVID CALVERT/ — edging my sisters out of the kitchen in We also take a look at the ingredient that’s RENO MAGAZINE my bossy, bossy way. I still love to bake and responsible for a great deal of flavor in any find it meditative — the measuring, pouring dish — salt. Kosher, iodized, sea and rock and mixing. salts all have their place at your table. So welcome, dear readers, to the latest issue On the wine and spirits front, wine of RENO Magazine. This issue differs from columnist Rebecca Davidson gives a primer the ones that have come before. Firstly, it’s on green wine — no, not the “Green Eggs and TASTE brought to you by RENO Magazine Ham” kind of green — we’re talking organic, — we’ll have two TASTE issues per year biodynamic and sustainable wines. What do going forward. Also, the magazine looks a all those words mean, anyway? Find out. little different — it’s been redesigned and will Finally, learn all about the spirit beloved be featuring new fashion, beauty and home by Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, Pablo content in future issues. Picasso, Vincent van Gogh and Oscar Wilde This particular issue is an homage to food — absinthe. and drink. We have a story on the 12 things you must eat and drink in Reno, and although I’ve tried most of the items on the list, there are still a few I have yet to taste. Local chefs talk guilty gastronomical LAURA LONGERO pleasures — ahem, junk food. The chef in my RENO MAGAZINE EDITOR house loves tarted-up ramen, you’ll have to [email protected]; 775.788.6597

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RM0506_001-011_TOCLetter_V1.indd 3 4/13/17 4:25 PM RENO MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2017

TASTE 14 SALT 101 What’s the deal with salt, anyway? Here’s your primer on all things salt, your basic kosher to Fleur de Sel.

22 WINE GOES GREEN Natural, biodynamic, sustainable and organic — these terms are popping up everywhere on wine labels. What do they mean?

36 ALL THE FOOD; ALL THE BOOZE Reno is becoming an amazing food town. 26 Here are the top Food & Drink events in our region through the end of the year.

ON THE COVER IN EVERY ISSUE GUILTY PLEASURES 12 38 CALENDAR What is your favorite local chef eating when he or she In brief: things to see, do and attend in gets home from work? You might be surprised. Northern Nevada during May and June. 42 OUT ON THE TOWN BEAUTIFUL BIVALVES 18 Join Johnathan L. Wright, RGJ Media’s The chubby, briny shellﬁ sh we know and love star in food and drink editor, for dispatches from RENO Magazine’s inaugural experience event, an Northern Nevada’s social swim. oyster tasting at Rapscallion Seafood House & Bar. 48 THE LAST STRAW RENO’S BUCKET LIST 26 The green fairy beckons, and a local distillery Johnathan L. Wright, RGJ Media’s has answered the call. Learn all there is food and drink editor, gives you the 12 best things to know about the anise-ﬂ avored spirit, in Reno that you must taste — or sip. Happy hunting! absinthe.

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RM0506_001-011_TOCLetter_V1.indd 4 4/13/17 4:26 PM RENO MAGAZINE SHOP &SAVE Volume 15, Issue 3 All SummerLong!g

Kelly Ann Scott EDITOR IN CHIEF

Laura Longero EDITOR

Peggy Santoro CONTENT STRATEGIST

Bianca Camano ART DIRECTOR

Johnathan L. Wright FOOD AND DRINK EDITOR

Heidi Bethel, Natasha Bourlin, Rebecca Davidson, Mark Earnest, Mike Higdon, and Johnathan L. Wright CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Andy Barron and David Calvert CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Ryan Kedzierski PRESIDENT OF RGJ MEDIA

PUBLISHED BY RGJ MEDIA CUSTOM PUBLISHING GROUP

Kelly Ann Scott EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Ryan Kedzierski PRESIDENT OF RGJ MEDIA

Advertising 775-788-6464

RENO Magazine is published six times a year by RGJ Media, 955 Kuenzli St., Reno, NV 89502 (P.O. Box 22000, Reno, NV 89520). Single copy sales are $5 per issue. Annual subscription price is $24 for Reno Gazette-Journal subscribers and $40 for non-RGJ subscribers. Blue chip bulk sales (10 or more copies) are $4 per issue. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to RENO Magazine, 955 Kuenzli St., Reno, NV 89502. Copyright 2014 RENO Magazine. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. RENO Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork, even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope.

RM0506_001-011_TOCLetter_V1.indd 5 4/13/17 4:26 PM ADVERTISMENT ADVERTISMENT LEGENDARY DELI time out to highlight the merits of Famed Canter’s Award-winning Eldorado’s signature restaurant.

La Strada serves up What do you think sets La Deli Opens Strada apart from other Italian stellar northern restaurants? this May Inside We’ve created a menu full of Italian cuisine at Italian specialties, such as the Silver Legacy Eldorado’s famous mushroom BY BRANDI SCHLOSSBERG Eldorado ravioli, and the pastas made fresh BY BRANDI SCHLOSSBERG daily in the Eldorado’s pasta shop. From house-made pickles and slabs We make everything from scratch of thick cheesecake to pastrami ong lauded as one of the best and go straight to the source sandwiches piled high and soothing Italian restaurants around, for ingredients. If it’s an Italian matzo ball soup, the authentic deli experience will arrive in Reno at Silver La Strada at the Eldorado ingredient, it comes from Italy. If Legacy Resort Casino this May. The Resort Casino maintains it’s a Mexican ingredient, it comes L from Mexico and so on. Our our famed Canter’s Deli will open next a powerful recipe for success: to the Laugh Factory, bringing with use only the nest ingredients, for the pasta is direct from Italy. The wheat for the our is dierent it a long history of legendary food. hire excellent people and make Established in Los Angeles by the everything in house from scratch. and better. We are also always recipe and very fresh. The plate is Canter family in 1931, this award- searching for the freshest local The stellar La Strada experience nished with a tomato marmalade, winning restaurant is continually restaurant every day to make sure of beef served many dierent ways, is shaped by two experts in the ingredients. Eggs, vegetables, rabbit which we also make in house. We packed with guests who are eager to things are done the right way. We’re Thanksgiving dinner served every day art of traditional northern Italian — anything that can be fresh and purchase as little pre-made items enjoy the addictive avors of authentic very excited to be able to expand our and our homemade pickles. cuisine — Eldorado Executive local, is. as possible — if we can make it, Jewish deli cuisine. Owner Mark Canter restaurant’s footprint and have our Chef Ivano Centemeri and La we do. It just makes it better all is happy to dish on the enduring food served in Reno for the very rst What are a few of the stand-out Strada Head Chef Massimo Tell us about one of the most around. success of his family’s business — and time. foods your deli is famous for? Riggio — and the result is nothing popular entrées on the menu. the excitement of opening a location short of award-winning. La Strada Our lamb chops are marinated for Anything new on the horizon for La right here in Reno. Can you give our readers an idea The pickles because they are just so 24 hours in red wine, mustard and good and we pickle them in house. has been named one of the top 10 Strada? Your family’s Los Angeles restaurant has of the range of dishes available at fresh herbs, then grilled and served Our rye bread because we bake it Italian restaurants in the nation While we always keep the most been thriving for decades. What makes Canter’s Deli? with seasonal vegetables. We go by ourselves and then double bake it and is consistently voted a favorite traditional and staple La Strada you excited to have a Canter’s Deli in right before we serve it, and we also the season very, very much. The There’s all of our staple items, such among locals as well, along with dishes on the menu, we are also Reno now, too? slice it in a special way one slice at a as hot corned beef or pastrami taking home the Wine Spectator lamb chops come with a mean constantly moving toward the time. Our matzo ball soup because it’s The Canter family has been serving served as sandwiches and Reubens, Award of Excellence for 10 years salsa verde that we make in house, seasons with new items. For one-of-a-kind and just so comforting great food for over 85 years — it’s the matzo ball soup, potato pancakes, in a row. Recently, Centemeri took instead of a mint jelly. It’s our own example, we released 12 new menu and true to its nature. Our Reubens four generations of experience and cheese blintzes, smoked salmon on items for spring. We’re also now because of their gigantic size and the the fact that we are hands-on in the a bagel with cream cheese, brisket open seven days a week, and we’ll way we make them taste so good by be remodeling soon to add a patio, not cutting any corners in the process where you can enjoy La Strada on making them to order. food in a more trattoria-style What else can folks ﬁnd at setting. Canter’s Deli?

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RM0506_001-011_TOCLetter_V1.indd 6 4/13/17 4:26 PM ADVERTISMENT LEGENDARY DELI time out to highlight the merits of Famed Canter’s Award-winning Eldorado’s signature restaurant.

RM0506_001-011_TOCLetter_V1.indd 7 4/13/17 4:26 PM ADVERTISMENT FOOD COURT FAB Fresh, Fast And Family- Friendly At Circus Circus Reno BY BRANDI SCHLOSSBERG Thanks to recent renovations across the Eldorado Resorts Reno complex, there are big changes under the big top at Circus Circus Reno. Along with remodeled rooms, a reimagined Midway and three new food- and-beverage options — El and Circus Circus Reno into and chargrilled over an open Jefe’s Cantina, Kanpai Sushi a one-stop shop for dining, ame. Guests can upgrade to and Sips Co ee and Tea — the entertainment, gaming and a double Charburger with two resort is revamping its bu et into more. Instead of having a bu et patties or request theirs Santa an all-new food court. Located at each property, we thought Barbara-style with two patties, across from the Midway, the food one of the best ways to utilize the cheese and avocado on grilled court boasts three brand-name space and maximize our value sourdough. Guests can also eateries and more than 180 seats to our guests was to increase enjoy the unique tempura green in a wide-open common area. the number of eatery options. beans as an alternative side to Rob Stone, vice president of With Circus Circus Reno being traditional French fries. food and beverage for Eldorado, our family-friendly property, it Silver Legacy and Circus Circus seemed to make the most sense What about Piezzetta Pizza Reno gives us the inside scoop to have fast-casual dining there, Kitchen? where every member of the on this fresh spot for fast-casual All of Piezzetta’s pizzas are baked food, featuring the Habit Burger family can nd something to eat and served hot in three minutes Grill, Piezzetta Pizza Kitchen and quickly and at a good price. Plus, or less without compromising Panda Express. we are able to bring two brand- the taste. Ingredients like ground new restaurants to northern What is the reasoning lamb, goat cheese and true Nevada — the Habit Burger Grill oil are sourced to build the most behind changing the buffet and Piezzetta Pizza Kitchen. avorful, eclectic or traditional into a contemporary food combinations right in front of your court? Tell us about a couple eyes. popular options at the Habit As the Eldorado Resorts Reno Burger Grill. Why are you excited to properties undergo $50 million have Panda Express on the in renovations, we were given At Habit Burger, the Charburger is the opportunity to really make the original kahuna, made from property? the Eldorado, Silver Legacy 100-percent fresh ground beef Panda Express, of course, has their famous orange chicken, as well as their health-minded WokSmart selections. WokSmart dishes make up more than half the Panda Express menu and have the same Chinese-inspired avors that many crave, such as Kung Pao Chicken, with a lot of protein and 300 calories or less. You never have to choose between healthy food and good avor — it’s all there. FOOD COURT Circus Circus Reno 500 N. Sierra St. 775-329-0711 - circusreno.com

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RM0506_001-011_TOCLetter_V1.indd 9 4/13/17 4:27 PM ADVERTISMENT Elevated seafood at Atlantis Oyster Bar Sky Terrace restaurant keeps the focus on fresh What makes the Oyster Bar What are a few of the most BY BRANDI SCHLOSSBERG the go-to seafood spot for popular dishes at the Oyster locals and visitors alike? Bar? lending elements of For one thing, we have a lot of Our rich pan roasts, generous sea and sky in one items on the menu — it’s a huge fish and chips, and classic breathtaking setting, seafood menu — so guests know seafood Louies have always the Oyster Bar on the they can find all their favorites BSky Terrace offers delectable here, and the quality of the been extremely popular, along dishes that span the spectrum ingredients is second to none. with our seafood scampi dish from fresh oysters on the half — guests love the fact that it’s Can you give us an idea of the served in a carved-out French shell and colossal seafood range of options on the Oyster bread boat. The Seafood Voyage cocktails to savory pan roasts and Bar menu? for two is another big hit, classic seafood Louies. Located We have everything from pan in an elevated, glass-enclosed roasts and massive seafood featuring snow crab, lobster claw space at the Atlantis Casino cocktails to shrimp scampi and meat, jumbo shrimp and oysters Resort Spa, the Oyster Bar offers fish and chips, and so many on the half shell. diners an unforgettably delicious other dishes in between — pan Any other fan favorites readers seared sole, jambalaya, cioppino experience. Atlantis Corporate might want to try? Executive Chef Bob Katausky — and lobster rolls, just to name a few. Then, of course, there’s the The Seven Seas Crab Sampler is who’s been on the Atlantis team oysters. pretty impressive — it’s a one- for nearly three decades — shares pound combination of chilled why the Oyster Bar continues to Tell us about the oysters you snow crab, Alaskan king crab serve up on the Sky Terrace. be an all-time favorite. and Dungeness crab served Our oysters are always with cocktail sauce and drawn fresh. They come butter. Our guests also love the straight from the Colossal Mazatlán Cocktail, cold waters of Penn Cove in Washington which offers a mouthwatering State, and you can sit blend of shrimp and scallops and watch them get with tomato, avocado, onion shucked and served and lemon. right before your eyes. Order them up by OYSTER BAR ON THE SKY the dozen on the half TERRACE shell or try our large, ATLANTIS CASINO RESORT SPA delicately battered 3800 S. VIRGINIA ST. fried oysters with 824-4434 dipping sauces. ATLANTISCASINO.COM

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RM0506_001-011_TOCLetter_V1.indd 11 4/13/17 4:28 PM after trufﬂed potatoes, POTATO CHIPS RENO CHEFS REVEAL THEIR SNACKING AND FAST FOOD SECRETS

BY JOHNATHAN L. WRIGHT

HEFS TYPICALLY AREN’T FOOD SNOBS. They tend not to food shame. And they never call themselves “foodies.” (They leave that to civilians, to habitués of variously tiresome online fora.) ¶ Public perceptions to the contrary, chefs (especially fine dining chefs) don’t eat as elaborately away Cfrom their restaurants as they cook in their restaurants. ¶ Like most of the rest of us, chefs sometimes eat less healthfully than they should — whether out of fatigue after a punishing shift or out of convenience while on the go or, simply, out of fondness for a food they enjoyed long before they cooked professionally. ¶ With that in mind, RENO Magazine asked a group of local chefs about their (occasional) eating habits away from the line: their snack food secrets, their guilty pleasures from the drive- through, the comfort foods they fork into (sometimes sheepishly). ¶ Or, put another way, artisan this, heirloom that — now which way is Taco Bell?

RM0506_012-013_GuiltyPleasures_V2.indd 12 4/14/17 1:15 PM ERIKA PINTO BEN DEINKEN LIBERTY FOOD & WINE EXCHANGE TOURNANT POP-UP CINNAMON TOAST CRUNCH CEREAL RESTAURANT AND WEST SHORE CAFÉ “I am a confi rmed sweets lover and prefer STOUFFER’S CREAMED CHIPPED BEEF to eat dessert before dinner. I have had an a nity for these sweet little squares “My secret indulgence is chipped beef and since I was young, and nothing has changed gravy on toast. I always buy the Stou er’s as I have aged. It seriously satisfi es on frozen chipped beef at the store, but I make all levels. I especially love the bowl of sure that no one sees me buy it. I always cinnamon sugar milk at the end.” worry I’ll run into someone I know, another chef, and they’ll see me buying frozen food.” CHRISTIAN CHRISTENSEN JESSICA SHAPIRO NICHOLLE SÜP RESTAURANT ALUMBAUGH JACK IN THE BOX THE CHEESE BOARD AMERICAN BISTRO HOMAGE BAKERY SOURDOUGH JACK SPAGHETTIOS SAUTÉED MCDONALD’S SPICY “Buttery grilled sourdough, WITH HOT DOGS CHICKEN WITH TOMATO burger patty, ketchup, mayo, “I am so guilty of being a junk food junkie. My “Name a place, and I can tell you what I’m bacon ... mmm. Usually, it comes no-shame SpaghettiOs sautéed with hot dogs a glutton for — McDonald’s Spicy Chicken down to me rushing somewhere ... holds a sort of sentimental value because with Tomato. Honestly, when you spend and not planning ahead and that it reminds me of home. I’m still holding out for hours a day working ... as a cook/chef, damn sign calls to me. The drive- those weird pregnancy cravings that I’ve been you’re allowed to have a meal of whatever through shame weighs heavy on hearing so much about.” you’d like.” my mind as I roll down my rear window in an e ort to hide my Süp logo.” KHOUN KRYSTA BEA JACKSON CHANTALASIN ELDORADO RESORTS INC. SUGAR LOVE CHOCOLATES DAVID SUNFLOWER SEEDS AWFUL AWFUL BURGER FROM THE LITTLE NUGGET DINER “I have to work hard to not chow down a large bag of these in one sitting. And they make “The amount of food they give you and the such a mess! But I love the salt. These are tastiness appeal to me. I don’t think people defi nitely a guilty secret done in the privacy recognize me without my uniform, so I go of my own home and never when a potential in, sit there quietly and watch how other romantic partner is around.” people eat while I’m consuming it myself.”

COLIN SMITH ROUNDABOUT GRILL AND ROUNDABOUT CATERING & PARTY RENTALS. SOUR CANDIES WHITNEY DERI “OK, I have a few junk food obsessions for BLEND CATERING sure, but I am really addicted to sour hard KETTLE BRAND POTATO CHIPS candies. Anything that is sour is a trigger “My favorite junk food is Kettle chips. I love for sure. I love sour Jolly Ranchers and how crunchy and salty they are! I must SweeTARTS and Sour Patch Kids.” always have them in the house. It is the one bad food habit I can never quit.”

M · J 2017 | 13

RM0506_012-013_GuiltyPleasures_V2.indd 13 4/13/17 4:44 PM SALT 101: FOOD-FORWARD SALTS AND HOW TO USE THEM BY NATASHA BOURLIN PHOTOS BY GETTY IMAGES & PROVIDED BY NATASHA BOURLIN

RM0506_014-017_Salt101_V2.indd 14 4/13/17 4:45 PM M · J 2017 | 15

RM0506_014-017_Salt101_V2.indd 15 4/13/17 4:45 PM ALT, THE UBIQUITOUS CRYSTALLINE SUBSTANCE we know today, was once a rare and prized commodity for cultures across the globe because of its varied

uses. ¶ According to “Brilliant Food Tips and Cooking Tricks” by David Joachim (2001, Rodale Inc.), salt is composed of two types of ions: 40 percent sodium and

60 percent chloride. It also is one of the five basic tastes. ¶ Made from evaporated seawaterS or mined rock deposits frequently found in underground ancient sea beds, the cubic structure of salts can differ depending on the method of acquisition. Humans have long known of salt’s benefits, with mines dating to 6,500 B.C.E. having been found in Salzburg, Austria, according to Joachim. Prior to refrigeration, salt was used to help preserve food from spoiling

because salt inhibits the microbial and fungal growth within food. ¶ Salt’s composition can nimbly penetrate food. Modern chefs celebrate the seasoning’s structures and flavors because of their varied contributions to dishes. Today, salt production facilities can be found on nearly every continent, with each region’s geologic composition contributing to the veritable rainbow of salts available.

THE BASICS The various forms of salt are table, iodized, kosher, sea and rock salt, according to Joachim. Table salt is one of the most prevalent, finding its way to its namesake only after refining has stripped away traces of other naturally occurring minerals. Chemical additives are sometimes blended in to prevent clumping of this fine-grain salt, there by providing accuracy in measuring for bakers. Iodized salt is fortified with iodine that might have been removed during processing. The fortified salt was the result of a Midwest goiter epidemic in the 1920s blamed on iodine deficiencies. Kosher salt is coarse-grained with no additives, prepared under specific conditions required by the Orthodox Jewish faith, and initially used for koshering meats. It is

RM0506_014-017_Salt101_V2.indd 16 4/13/17 4:45 PM SPRINKLE, THEN SAMPLE: Woodall says. “But I also use them in Salty-Savory-Sweet Spices our pulled pork sandwich.” and Teas on California Avenue Professional chefs and those in the includes testers of its salts. spice business recommend using these as finishing salts to complete a dish — especially if experimenting with new blends — so that you don’t have to scrap a whole dish if the salt is too heavy- handed or the flavors don’t mesh well. Some ideas for using flavor-infused salts are on popcorn, meats, vegetables and French fries; in sparkling waters and compound butters; on the rim of cocktails; to counterbalance sweetness in desserts or fruits — even sprinkled atop fresh tomatoes when they’re in season.

THE SALT SPECTRUM Salty-Savory-Sweet Spices and Teas owner Lindy Pastor talks about how the various salt hues come from the clay or volcanic rocks where each is found. Different geographic locations produce salts with varying trace mineral contents. often a more affordable alternative to Napa-Sonoma Grocery Company, Salty- Examples include the higher iron content gourmet varieties. Savory-Sweet Spices and and Teas on found in Himalayan pink salts, and the Sea salt is the result of a time- California Avenue, Williams-Sonoma and black and red salts of Hawaii colored by consuming seawater evaporation Whole Foods Market. the islands’ activated volcanic charcoal process that maintains each fine or “Flavored salts are a great opportunity and red clay, respectively. coarse grain’s mineral composition. It to give your dish another subtle layer These minerals can subtly to tends to have trace minerals such as such as lavender finishing salt, or dramatically impact salt flavor, like the iodine, magnesium and potassium that a strong confident pop like a lime pungent, dark Kala Namak salt from are naturally present. serrano chile salt,” says chef Christian the Himalayas. Its aroma and flavor are Texture and color of sea salts Christensen, owner of Süp restaurant. sulphurous, which can add an almost vary more than flavor, which can be “Salts are used to bring out the flavors egg-like profile to dishes. fresher and lighter than other types. of other ingredients, so flavoring salts Taste tests perhaps offer the best Maldon and France’s Fleur de Sel are themselves can be a fun twist, with glimpse into the flavor differences, and popular varieties. endless possibility.” sampling is encouraged at Salty-Savory- Rock salt is unrefined and generally Lemon, truffles, chile peppers and Sweet. found in large crystals, often tinged with even wine and espresso are used to Pastor and her husband and business gray because of its mineral composition. complement the base salt flavor and add partner Brent operate in a front-of-house, It’s used for shellfish presentation or dimension to dishes. Sometimes, salts are back-of-house fashion. Lindy develops in hand-cranked ice cream makers, even smoked. the spice and tea blends they create for example. Chef Michael Woodall of Bistro 7 also in-house; her husband mans the shop. likes the way infused salts can enhance “We got into this business from FLAVORFUL FUSIONS a dish with either complementary or traveling,” says Lindy Pastor, a native Flavor-infused salt is created by blending contrasting flavors. Nevadan. “We wanted to give people salts with other ingredients. They can “I use smoked salt to finish our something they are used to, and then be made by hand or purchased in stores butterscotch pudding because it brings give them something they’ve never tried around Northern Nevada, including out the smokiness of the Scotch,” before to expand their palate.” RM

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RM0506_018-021_Oysters_V2.indd 18 4/13/17 4:46 PM aw, shucks

JOIN RENO MAGAZINE FOR OYSTERS ON THE TERRACE AT RAPSCALLION SEAFOOD HOUSE & BAR

BY JOHNATHAN L. WRIGHT

RM0506_018-021_Oysters_V2.indd 19 4/13/17 4:46 PM ENRY WARD BEECHER, THE 19TH CENTURY ABOLITIONIST, pondered the oyster. It was “the mouthful before all other Hmouthfuls,” he said, while also acknowledging “the exterior is not persuasive.” ¶ Indeed it is not. But beneath the craggy mien of the oyster lies a

plunge to the briny deep, one enjoyed by humans since ancient times. ¶ Of course, to get at its sweet, salty, savory, flinty flesh, someone must shuck the oyster, a process involving heavy gloves, a thick squat knife, and sharp shells that can do some serious slicing of their own. Given the rigmarole, do you blame folks for not giving a shuck?

RM0506_018-021_Oysters_V2.indd 20 4/13/17 4:47 PM Cava and La Marca prosecco donated by Breakthru Beverage also will be served. According to Rapscallion general manager Patrick Dalton, the timing is right for our bivalve bash. “There has definitely been a resurgence in the oyster. When I got here in 2004, it was really tough to get people to buy oysters. Now, everybody is eating them.”

LIFE CYCLE But not every oyster is eaten. Edible oysters mainly belong to one family. Other types of oysters are harvested for pearls or for their shells. Oysters are filter feeders, drawing in plankton, particles and excess sediment for food. This filter feeding helps clean their marine environments. Oysters can filter up to 50 gallons of sea water a day. Oysters initially reproduce as males (by releasing sperm), then as they grow larger, as females (by releasing eggs). An oyster’s life begins as a tiny spat, or seed, the size of a grain of sand — 5,000 could fit in your hand. OYSTERS ON THE There are several methods TERRACE of cultivating oysters. At Featuring oyster stations; famed Hog Island Oyster condiments; Cava and prosecco Co. on Tomales Bay in sparkling wine pairings rural Marin County, spats WHEN: 5:30 to 7 p.m. June 5 are placed by the millions WHERE: Rapscallion Seafood in mesh cylinders in the House & Bar, 1555 S. Wells Ave. bay. The cylinders roll with COST: $25 Rapscallion Seafood House & Bar, a Wells the tides, allowing the TICKETS: tickets.rgj.com/e/ Avenue district mainstay, is joining with water to tumble around the RENO Magazine for an oyster tasting on oysters-on-the-terrace June 5. limited seating for 35 baby oysters. When they’re about three- quarters of an inch in size, Well, on June 5, they won’t have to. That’s when RENO the oysters are transferred to mesh bags that are elevated above Magazine is hosting an oyster tasting on the terrace at the bay floor. The bags are tumbled and knocked regularly Rapscallion Seafood House & Bar, a longtime mainstay of the so the oysters develop the harder shells that help preserve Wells Avenue district. them longer. The folks at Rapscallion are doing the shucking, then On the other hand, at its original farm, Fanny Bay uses a raft presenting the oysters in four or five stations. and tray system to rear its oysters. Spats are placed in trays that Oyster availability changes weekly, but it’s likely Bluepoints are suspended using flotation devices in the chilly waters off (from Long Island Sound), Fanny Bays (from British Vancouver Island. When the weather warms, the trays can be Columbia), and Kumamotos (cultivated along the West Coast) lowered into deeper water to protect the oysters from the sun. will make an appearance, along with one or two varieties that Like humans, different oysters have different life cycles. will come to market in early June. In general, oysters can grow to full size in nine months, but Folks can anoint their oysters with classics like cocktail farmers grow them for a year or more to develop better flavor sauce, mignonette and spurts of lemon juice, plus some and texture. surprise condiments from the Rapscallion kitchen. Nothing On June 5, we’re celebrating those qualities as we slurp the goes with oysters like sparkling wine, so flutes of icy Naveran early evening away. RM

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RM0506_018-021_Oysters_V2.indd 21 4/13/17 4:47 PM NOTES FROM THE VINE GOING

RM0506_022-025_Wine_V2.indd 22 4/13/17 4:47 PM GOING GREEN in the world of wine

BY REBECCA DAVIDSON

ONE OF THE BIGGEST TRENDS IN WINE TODAY is the explosive growth of the “green and friendly” category. From sustainability to organic certifications, this broad spectrum covers a whole range of wine making and grape growing philosophies and practices. Navigating this diverse world, however, can be difficult and confusing for the average consumer. So, whether you’re concerned about your carbon footprint or just trying to embrace a healthier lifestyle, here is a quick rundown to help you sort things out.

ORGANIC PRACTICES In a nutshell, organics refers to grape growing and/or wine making without the use of manufactured fertilizers, pesticides, or other banned products like sulfur dioxide. Many countries (as well as the European Union) have their own rules, regulations and certifications regarding organic practices. (Note: You might not always see these certifications on the label of foreign wines sold in the U.S. If you are looking for organic wines from, say, France, you might need to do a little internet research.) In the U.S., the USDA establishes the criteria for organic wine, and certification is offered through USDA-accredited local or regional bodies. In reality, there aren’t that many U.S. producers with organically certified wines because sulfur — one of the banned products — is still widely used as a preservative for wine. The next best thing for the consumer might be to seek out wines that are labeled as “made with organic grapes.” While you won’t see the USDA organic seal on the label, the only real difference might be that a small amount of sulfur dioxide was used during the wine making process. Something to keep in mind, as well — the odds are good that you’ll be exposed to more sulfites at that restaurant salad bar than you ever will from a glass of wine.

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RM0506_022-025_Wine_V2.indd 23 4/13/17 4:48 PM BIODYNAMIC PRACTICES While natural farming practices are centuries old, the “spiritual science” of biodynamics was developed in the early part of the 20th century by Rudolph Steiner, an Austrian philosopher. Kind of like the Farmers’ Almanac on steroids (and with a cult-like following to boot), biodynamic farming assumes that all parts of the land are interconnected as an ecosystem. Using special compost preparations, cover crops and native pest management, the goal is to create a natural balance in the vineyard. The forces of nature are considered to be an integral part in preserving the health of the land. When to water, when to prune, when to harvest or just when to leave the vineyard alone: It’s all determined by the elements, the phases of the moon, the alignment of the planets. The biodynamic approach is like taking organic processes for the most part and adding some metaphysical touches. While many producers practice varying degrees of biodynamic viticulture, relatively few are actually 2014 HANDLEY CELLARS A certified by the two international programs, Demeter NDERSON VALLEY RIESLING and Biodyvin. The benchmark for production of cool-climate whites from Mendocino County, California, Handley Cellars SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES makes the majority of its wine from organically grown By far, this is the broadest category of “green wine,’’ fruit in Anderson Valley, sourced from either their estate simply because the philosophy of sustainability in vineyards or responsible local growers. farming addresses so many relevant issues today — In addition, the vegans among you will be happy whether that’s viability of land and crops or consideration to note that as of 2012, all of their whites are vinified of social and economic goals. “free of animal products,” meaning no dairy, eggs Global concerns about climate change, greenhouse or animal-derived materials were used at all in the gas emissions, water conservation, erosion control and winemaking process. protection of endangered species often provide the With only 233 cases produced, the 2014 riesling is like impetus for these initiatives. a breath of fresh air. Crisp and clean, with racy acidity Although these concerns are global, a growing number and pronounced minerality, it’s made in a dry style that of sustainable certifications in recent years have been will appeal to most white wine drinkers. developed to address the environmental and economic Typical notes of petrol — a marker for the grape — are issues unique to a particular locale. balanced by tart tropical fruit on the nose. Citrus flavors From smaller areas such as Lodi, California’s “Certified of lime, grapefruit and orange burst at the seams, making Green” program; to multi-state collaborations such this wine a must-have in my summer beverage arsenal. as “Salmon Safe” encompassing Oregon, Washington, APPROXIMATE RETAIL: $18 California and Idaho (as well as British Columbia); to whole-country campaigns such as South Africa’s 2016 SPIER STELLENBOSCH “Integrity and Sustainability Certified” program — SOUTH AFRICA CHENIN BLANC sustainable practices are found everywhere that grapes Even in a country where sustainability practices are are grown. emphasized on a national level, Spier stands out. So, the next time you pick up a bottle of wine, look on Not only is the winery organically certified and the label for the logo of a green program — Mother Earth an adopter of biodynamic and sustainable practices, will thank you. Here are a few green wines to try. but it also has received many accolades from various

RM0506_022-025_Wine_V2.indd 24 4/13/17 4:48 PM If only more producers in Napa showed the same level of commitment to the land as they do to their wines. APPROXIMATE RETAIL: $35

2012 CARDWELL HILL CELLARS ESTATE BOTTLED WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR Employing sustainable agricultural practices, Cardwell Hill is a certified member of Salmon Safe, an organization whose mission is to protect the water quality and biodiversity in the Willamette Valley and other important Pacifc Northwest salmon watersheds. By planting cover crops, applying natural means for pest and weed control, and monitoring run-off water quality, Cardwell Hill meets rigorous standards to maintain this yearly certification. A portion of the vineyard and other acreage also is set aside as a home for the Fenders blue butterfly, an endangered species. The 2012 Estate pinot noir offers up lovely floral aromas of lavender and roses, as well as enticing notes of cherry and raspberry on the palate. An underlying earthiness — a slight “forest floor” quality — adds depth international organizations — the World Wildlife but never, ever detracts from what a pretty wine this is. Federation to the Fair Trade in Tourism Organization — Drink a glass of pinot, save a butterfly — I can’t think for its enormous eco-friendly commitment. of a better way to spend your time. The winery’s commitment to quality follows through APPROXIMATE RETAIL: $30 in the glass. The 2016 chenin blanc, with its classic notes of apple and pear and aromas of white flowers and fruit 2012 CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET PAUILLAC blossoms, is a refreshing alternative to chardonnay or As the first classified Bordeaux estate to go green, pinot grigio. Pontet-Canet received its organic certification from Bright acidity keeps the wine interesting on the palate Ecocert in 2010, as well as biodynamic certifications from and makes it a perfect pairing for soft cheeses like Brie. Biodyvin and Demeter in 2010 and 2014, respectively. With such an attractive price, it could easily become your The château’s commitment to the land is seen in house white. practices like the Breton draft horses quietly working the APPROXIMATE RETAIL: $9 vineyards — an alternative to the tractor’s heavy hand on the soil. 2013 GRGICH HILLS ESTATE This Grand Cru Classé house has a reputation for NAPA VALLEY CHARDONNAY producing some of the best wines in the world, and When one of the most venerable estates in Napa makes its 2012 cabernet sauvignon-based blend certainly a commitment to organic and sustainable practices, you doesn’t disappoint. know that it’s not just a trend, it’s a movement. Full of energy, the wine shows a balance of power and All five Grgich vineyards are certified organic precision that can only be achieved at this level. The — farmed naturally, without artificial pesticides or brightness of the fruit — both red and black fruits — herbicides. The Grgich Hills Estate chardonnay has positively sings with expression, tempered by savory always been the benchmark for California’s production of notes of earth and herbs. Judicious use of French oak adds the grape. the finishing touch. The 2013 vintage was a nearly perfect growing year. Pricey stuff, I’ll admit, but well worth it. Ripe stone fruits of pear and yellow apple on the nose are APPROXIMATE RETAIL: $100 RM equaled by the ripeness of the tropical fruit on the palate.

The wine is rich and creamy as a result of extended Rebecca Davidson is a wine professional with Total Wine & More “sur lie” aging, but balanced so well by natural acidity. in Reno.

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RM0506_022-025_Wine_V2.indd 25 4/13/17 4:48 PM COVER STORY

BETTER BY THE DOZEN

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RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 26 4/13/17 5:16 PM THIS HERE FOOD AND DRINK GIG TYPICALLY OUR FOOD INVITES ONE OF THREE QUESTIONS FROM AND DRINK FOLKS: Do restaurant owners recognize you? (Some do, some don’t.) Is it hard to keep your EDITOR weight down? (It sure is.) What’s your favorite restaurant? (I SHARES don’t have just one.) 12 OF HIS With that last question, I go on to explain that my reason for visiting a restaurant might depend on the occasion or its location FAVORITE (drive? walk?) or — most importantly — what I want to eat or EATS AND sip. In other words, I visit different places for different dishes and drinks. DRINKS With that in mind, I’m sharing my favorites from a dozen IN RENO different spots. As I like to joke, these are some of the standouts on which I’ll spend my own money, not just my expense account. BY JOHNATHAN L. WRIGHT PHOTOS BY DAVID CALVERT Another day, another time, I might choose a different dozen.

RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 27 4/13/17 5:16 PM CHAPEL TAVERN: WAKEY WAKEY BLOODY MARY There are bloody Marys, and then there is Chapel Tavern’s Wakey Wakey bloody Mary. It’s a bloody marvelous lollapalooza built with horseradish vodka and fresh horseradish, stout beer, bacon, seasonal skewered vegetables and a grilled cheese garnish. AKA: all the food groups in a glass. chapeltavern.com

MANHATTAN DELI (ATLANTIS CASINO RESORT SPA): MATZO BALL SOUP East meets West at Manhattan Deli. East Coast meets West Coast, that is. Reno’s only New- York style Jewish deli composes a matzo ball that’s just right: not too soft, not too ﬁrm. The ball rises from a light yet substantial chicken broth populated with carrots and celery. The bowl size is a meal in itself. atlantiscasino.com

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RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 28 4/13/17 5:17 PM LA STRADA (ELDORADO RESORT CASINO): MUSHROOM RAVIOLI Mushroom ravioli, the Eldorado’s signature dish, are served in three of the property’s restaurants, but their best expression occurs in ﬂagship La Strada, where they arrive fresh from the pasta shop upstairs. The ravioli are stued with earthy porcini mushrooms, then splashed with velvety porcini cream sauce. The exact recipe remains secret. eldoradoreno.com

LULOU’S: PORK BUNS Many consider LuLou’s to be the region’s ﬁnest restaurant. Its pork buns have helped build this reputation. They’re a modern twist on char siu bao meets Peking duck, one featuring meltingly rich pork belly, shiitakes, and jabs of pickled cucumber, all enrobed by a soft bun. Spicy dunking sauce adds to the pleasure.

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RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 29 4/13/17 4:51 PM IMBIB CUSTOM BREWS: NEVADA WEISSE Whether you’re a beer geek or new to craft beer or somewhere in the middle (like me), the folks at Imbib approach the subject with expertise and passion that’s never pretentious. Start with a refreshingly tart, always-on- tap Nevada Weisse (or one of its fruited versions), then explore from there. imbibreno.com

RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 30 4/13/17 4:52 PM DYNASTY CHINA BISTRO: PORK AND VEGETARIAN DUMPLINGS When it comes to jiaozi, a style of Chinese dumpling, a thin wrapper indicates a dumpling properly made. At Dynasty China Bistro, the jiaozi are superlatively thin- skinned, the regular parcels carrying a cargo of ground pork, the vegetarian version sporting green wrappers made with spinach. dynastychinareno.com

RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 31 4/13/17 4:52 PM DEATH & TAXES: FOREIGN RELATIONS COCKTAIL I’m a creature of cocktail habit. Few bars can consistently convince me to sip beyond a martini. Death & Taxes is one of the few. Its Foreign Relations cocktail supplies a malty, bittersweet conclave of Japanese and Scotch whiskies and two Italian aperitivos, garnished with D & T’s moody swank. deathandtaxesreno.com

CAMPO RENO: CARAMEL BUDINO I’m not a sweets person (I save those calories for wine and booze.). I’m not a fan of restaurant food in jars (a twee, tired trend). But when it comes to Campo’s caramel budino, I overlook all that as I excavate sweet, salty, creamy, crumbly strata of chocolate cookie, salted caramel pudding and whipped cream. camporeno.com

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RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 32 4/13/17 5:18 PM MIDTOWN WINE BAR: WINE BY THE GLASS Midtown Wine Bar lies within Reno’s buzziest district — and feels a little apart from it, too. Which is to say, it doesn’t take itself too seriously. Come for a glass of Washington riesling or an a ordable red blend from France. Hungry? Order in from one of the surrounding restaurants. For folks who like a ﬂoor show with their grape, there’s live entertainment ﬁve nights a week. midtownwinebarreno.com

MIDTOWN EATS: ATOMIC BURGER Whenever I visit, I vow to order something besides the atomic burger. And then I end up ordering it again. But do you blame me? The burger features a brawny half-pound patty that’s fashioned from natural Painted Hills beef, then swagged with mixed greens, habanero, avocado and chipotle aïoli. In keeping with its name, the burger is truly spicy. midtowneatsreno.com

RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 33 4/13/17 4:53 PM TACOS EL REY: TACOS AL PASTOR The restaurant has three locations, making it easy to grab great tacos. Although Tacos El Rey o ers nearly two dozen taco meats, my favorite is the pastor, the pork juicy and slightly crisp, with a nip of chile heat and traditional pineapple sweetness. Onions, cilantro and spatters of salsa ﬁ nish the tacos. At $1.25, they’re one of Reno’s best meal deals. Facebook

RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 34 4/13/17 4:53 PM SMILING WITH HOPE PIZZA: NEW YORK SLICE New York-inspired pies — thin crust, swipes of tomato sauce, whole- milk mozzarella, pecorino Romano, Parmigiano-Reggiano — emerge blistered and bubbling from two hulking Blodgett pizza ovens. To eat, fold slices in half, New- York style. Elevating the experience? Smiling with Hope’s training program for people with disabilities. smilingwithhopepizza.com

RM0506_026-035_CoverStory_V2.indd 35 4/13/17 4:53 PM tastiest events of

2017BY HEIDI BETHEL

WHO DOESN’T LOVE getting dressed to the nines to go to the premier event in town, mingle with your favorite folks,

and enjoy fine libations coupled with tasty bites? ¶ Epicurean happenings abound in the Biggest Little City and elsewhere in the region. Here are the can’t-miss occasions ahead that should be on every food-loving socialite’s calendar this year.

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RM0506_036-037_FoodEvents_V1.indd 36 4/13/17 4:54 PM After a record-breaking Bistro, Wolfdale’s Cuisine JUNE JUNE winter, A Toast and Taste of Unique, Sunnyside Restaurant Summer Wine & Food Expo will & Lodge, Bistro 7, Twisted Fork, nd th 15 celebrate all the deliciousness and Rapscallion Seafood House 2 -10 A TOAST & TASTE that comes with the & Bar. sunny season. Enjoy fi ne French, German OF SUMMER Encore Beverage brings and Italian wines and gourmet RENO CRAFT BEER WEEK WINE & FOOD together culinary talent from bites while supporting the renocraftbeerweek.com EXPO around the Truckee Meadows, Reno Initiative for Shelter Celebrating all things barley, hops, malt and encorebeverage.com including chefs from Beaujolais and Equality. yeast, Reno Craft Beer Week is the time to shine for local brews. Revel in the area’s thriving sudsy culture while learning more about beer. Food enthusiasts get their fi x with pairing events and chef collaborations. SEPTEMBER 8 8th-10 th 26th ⁄27 32ND AUTUMN AN EVENING WITH CANFEST FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL JOHNATHAN L. WRIGHT canfestbeer.com northstarcalifornia.com atlantiscasino.com/dining Canfest organizers have this goal: To give As vibrant autumn colors emerge and Johnathan L. Wright, RGJ Media’s food canned beer the spotlight it deserves. temperatures begin to fall, the 32nd and drink editor, is emcee for a lavish Afi cionados gather to crush anti-aluminum Autumn Food & Wine Festival o ers true dinner at Atlantis Steakhouse featuring notions as they pop the tops on more than solstitial comfort with farm-to-table prized wines from Lewis Cellars, a highly 100 di erent brews from around the world. dinners, celebrated chefs, hands-on cooking regarded Napa Valley winery. In 2016, the A silent disco, live music, ra e and more — demonstrations, food and beverage pairings, Wine Spectator named a Lewis Cellars there’s no need to kick the can to fi nd fun at tasting hikes, seminars, and the Grand cabernet sauvignon as the No. 1 wine of this event. Tasting fi nale. the year.

OCT. 9-15 BARRELS & BITES NOVEMBER RENO BITES barrelsandbites.com WEEK 11 Barrels & Bites, presented by Southern Glazer’s Wine renobitesweek. & Spirits to benefi t the Boys & Girls Club of Truckee com ⁄3 Meadows, is one of Northern Nevada’s grandest events for food and drink connoisseurs. 18 The sixth annual In addition to more than 500 wines from around the world, attendees sample Reno Bites Week is a FANTASIES IN craft beers, spirits, specialty cocktails and fi ne food within creatively themed culinary celebration CHOCOLATE tasting areas. that takes place at RGJ.com dozens of restaurants Fantasies in Chocolate brings together and other venues the region’s best chefs to o er cocoa- citywide. The week th infused bites — both sweet and savory features special NOVEMBER 11 — that are served alongside wine, beer dishes, prix fi xe TH and spirits. Fantasies also showcases menus, signature 19 ANNUAL BUBBLES PARTY a VIP dinner, live music and luxury events and, as a fi nale, whisperingvinewine.com goods vendors. the Chef Showdown, Ready to indulge in more than 50 sparkling wines? The 19th annual Bubbles The gala black-tie evening helps a Top Chef-like Party is a toast to e ervescent delight! Whispering Vine Wine Co. on West support RGJ Foundation scholarships cook-o before an Fourth Street will uncork the bubbly in plenty of time to decide which label and grants for local individuals, enthusiastic crowd. will take the spotlight on your holiday table. schools and nonprofi t groups.

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RM0506_036-037_FoodEvents_V1.indd 37 4/13/17 4:54 PM CALENDAR MAY/JUNE

MUSIC

EASTON CORBIN 8 P.M. MAY 13 Although his more recent music has the pop and rock touches that are now all over country radio, the early sound of Easton Corbin was a refreshing throwback to the classic twang of yore. Still, that mix of old and new school will likely be present as Corbin performs hits such as “Roll With It,” “All Over the Road” and “Baby Be My Love Song.” $22 to $42 Grand Theatre, Grand Sierra Resort and Casino 2500 E. Second St. 775-789-2000 grandsierraresort.com

CELTIC WOMAN 7:30 P.M. JUNE 2 With some popular PBS specials and big concert tours in their history, this Irish quartet has brought the sound of traditional folk to the mainstream. Music and dance fuse in this latest show, called “Voices of Angels,” that continues to mix old-world acoustic music with pop and jazz hits from a variety of eras. $44 to $64 Reno Events Center 400 N. Center St. 775-827-7623 renoeventscenter.com

THEATER AIR SUPPLY 8 P.M. MAY 13 “ROGERS AND HAMMERSTEIN’S CINDERELLA” The duo of Russell Hitchcock and Graham Russell is still $35 to $75 8 P.M. MAY 19 AND 20, 2 P.M. MAY 20, 1 going strong. These two Aussies rode a wave of big chart Ballroom, Nugget P.M. AND 7 P.M. MAY 21 success in the ’80s with melodic pop-rock hits such as Casino Resort A TV version in the late ’90s helped cement “All Out of Live” “Sweet Dreams” and “The One That 1100 Nugget Ave., Sparks this musical’s reputation as a stage classic, You Love.” 775-356-3300 with touring companies now bringing its nuggetcasinoresort.com pumpkins, glass slippers and future princesses to life around the world. With a live orchestra as part of the tour, expect gorgeous versions of the musical’s tunes, including “It’s Possible” and “In My “Seagull” — and this modern take on the and music. A cast of 22, including several Own Little Corner.” Check the Pioneer Russian’s tale shows the sardonic aspect of former Cirque de Soleil troupe members, will Center’s website for ticket information. romance — with a bit of bird hunting on entertain during this surreal and playful show. the side. Ticket prices, dates and times are available at Tickets start at $49 the Eldorado website. Pioneer Center for the Performing Arts $20 advance, $25 door, $18 students and 100 S. Virginia St. seniors Eldorado Theatre, Eldorado Resort Casino 775-323-6393 Bruka Theatre 345 N. Virginia St. pioneercenter.com 99 N. Virginia St. 775-786-5700 775-323-3221 “STUPID F****** BIRD” bruka.squarespace.com 8 P.M. MAY 19 THROUGH JUNE 17; 2 P.M. STAGE SHOWS MAY 21 AND JUNE 4 “LE NOIR” JUNE 2 TO AUG. 27 “THE RAT PACK IS BACK” Leave it to the iconoclasts of Bruka Theatre 7:30 P.M. THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND to put on a summer show with such an The latest show at the Eldorado Theatre SATURDAY THROUGH JULY 1 outrageous title. The bird in question is uses a color scheme to bring emotional a literary one — author Anton Chekhov’s heft to a show featuring acrobatics, dancing In what would surely give old-school Renoites

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RM0506_038-041_Calendar_V2.indd 38 4/13/17 4:56 PM a charge, this show at Harrah’s features three COMEDY “COLOR FUSION: THE ART OF DICK actor/singers portraying Frank Sinatra, Sammy MARCONI” Davis Jr. and Dean Martin in full-on Rat Pack Now through July 30 mode, trading banter as well as classic songs from pop and jazz. This latest Arte Italia exhibit features the vibrant art of Marconi, who was partially $29.50 and $40.50 blinded as a young man and then began to Sammy’s Showroom, Harrah’s Reno see brighter, more saturated colors when he 219 N. Center St. regained some eyesight back. The result are 775-786-3232 paintings that seem to leap off the canvas harrahsreno.com when viewing. Noon to 5 p.m. Thursday through Sunday DANCE Free Arte Italia “COPPELIA” 442 Flint St. 8 P.M. MAY 6 AND 2 P.M. MAY 7 775-333-0310 A.V.A. Ballet Theatre returns with Van arteitaliausa.org Alstyne’s dance fantasy. Guests from Ballet West in Utah will be part of this performance, CHARITY EVENTS the story of a doll brought to life by a lonely doctor. RHYTHM AND RAWHIDE $22 to $54 6 P.M. MAY 19 Pioneer Center for the Performing Arts A dual fundraiser for the Reno Philharmonic 100 S. Virginia St. and the Reno Rodeo Association, this event 775-323-6393 features a mix of two excellent musical styles: pioneercenter.com the orchestral sounds of the Phil and the country music of top Nashville touring/studio MUSEUMS musicians and songwriters Brett James and PAULA Chris Destefano. Table and individual ticket WILBUR MAY CENTER SPRING/ POUNDSTONE purchase information is online. SUMMER EXHIBITIONS 8 P.M. JUNE 3 6 p.m. start 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M. Downtown Reno Ballroom WEDNESDAY THOUGH SATURDAY, This longtime comedian still treads 401 N. Center St. NOON TO 4 P.M. SUNDAY the boards with her trademark style of 775-323-6393 renophil.com/rhythm-rawhide A pair of regional-artist-centered exhibitions observation and real-life humor. But are on display this spring and early summer she’s also had some interesting side SPRING WINGS BIRD FESTIVAL at the Wilbur May. “Honoring Mother jobs to keep fans interested, including Nature” (now through June 4) features Sierra a voice role in Pixar’s film “Inside Out,” MAY 19 AND 20 Watercolor Society’s work depicting flowers, two books and a regular role on fun NPR Field trips, activities and speakers abound plants and nature. quiz show, “Wait Wait, Don’t Tell Me.” for this fun event that’s for bird watchers of “New Directions in Fiber and Mixed $36 and $44 all stripes. The main site, the Lahontan Valley Media” (June 17 to July 23) has a group of Pioneer Center for the Performing Arts Wetlands close to Fallon, is home to hundreds women artists from Nevada City, California, 100 S. Virginia St. of bird species. See the website for all events showcasing their own takes on textile work. 775-323-6393 and locations. The festival also includes a pioneercenter.com dinner on May 20 to benefit the Friends of Free Stillwater conversation group. The Wilbur D. May Center Museum 1595 N. Sierra St. 775-666-8031 775-785-5961 springwings.org washoecounty.us/parks/maycenterhome RENO CRAFT BEER WEEK “SCIENCE DISTILLED: THE BIRDS “JUDITHE HERNANDEZ ON THE RISE AND THE BEES” JUNE 2-10 OF CHICANO ART” 7 P.M. MAY 24 Reno-Sparks enjoys a growing reputation as 2 P.M. MAY 6 a brewers’ hub, and the return of this week As part of this new lecture series at the is a clear sign of that. Many of the city’s As part of the continuing “Miradas” exhibit, Discovery Museum, experts from the Desert brewers host evening events and tastings. one of its artists talks about the history of this Research Institute will talk about hawks The week also is a fundraiser for Project style that she helped pioneer. Her talk at the adapting to live in the city, how insect Great Outdoors. NMA will center on Chicano art as it relates communities respond to modern ecosystems to the civil rights awakening of Latinos in and how bees’ collection of pollen has The two biggest events are the annual the 1970s. changed over the decades. Backwash small brewers competition on June 2 and the CollaBREWation Gala on June 10 $12, $8 members, $5 students $15, $10 members in Victorian Square, Sparks. Check the beer Nevada Museum of Art Terry Lee Wells Nevada Discovery Museum week website for all the individual prices, 160 W. Liberty St. 490 S. Center St. venues, times and dates for events. 775-329-3333 775-786-1000 nevadaart.org nvdm.org renocraftbeerweek.com

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RM0506_038-041_Calendar_V2.indd 39 4/13/17 4:56 PM SCRAMBLE FOR SCIENCE GOLF TOURNAMENT 1:45 P.M. SHOTGUN START, JUNE 23 For the second year, afternoon golfers will take to the links at Lakeridge Golf Course for the Scramble for Science that beneﬁts the Discovery Museum. The tournament features a hole-in-one challenge, prizes and a dinner at Lakeridge for golfers. See the Discovery’s website for price and other details. Lakeridge Golf Course 1218 Golf Club Drive 775-786-1000 nvdm.org

FILMS

“THREE MINUTE FILM COMPETITION” 6 P.M. MAY 25 Hosted in conjunction with the Holland Project and KNPB-TV, this annual festival features very short ﬁlms in a wide range of styles from young ﬁlmmakers. Attendees can cast their own votes for their favorites. $5 Nevada Museum of Art 160 W. Liberty St. 775-329-3333 nevadaart.org

SPECIAL EVENTS RENO-TAHOE ODYSSEY JUNE 2-3 MIDTOWN’S FOURTH ANNUAL SIDEWALK SALE An odyssey is correct: This event is one of the wildest of 775-825-3399 11 A.M. TO 4 P.M. MAY 7 the charity runs in the region. It features a 178-mile course renotahoeodyssey.com Midtown District Reno presents its fourth through Reno and Lake Tahoe, or a 63-mile relay run. annual Midtown Sidewalk Sale. Participating Running teams make the big trek every year, and as business will offer discounted and sale before, it’s a benefit for both the Northern Nevada items, and participating restaurants are Children’s Cancer Foundation and the Tahoe-Pyramid offering discount food and drink items. Bikeway Project. Registration cost and route information Participating businesses: Black Hole Body is online. Piercing, Brasserie St. James, Community Yogi, Dragonfly Bath & Body, Happy Happy Joy Joy, Junkee, Mountain Music Parlor’s Folk Music Shoppe, Never Ender, Purposeful Living Healing Center, Recycled Records, Simple Ice Cream, Sippee’s Children Store and more. RENO RIVER FESTIVAL HOT AUGUST NIGHTS MAY 13-14 SPRING FEVER REVIVAL Midtown District Reno MAY 19 AND 20 It will be busy in downtown Reno as RENO SCULPTURE FEST this festival returns along with the Reno A sort-of pre-game to the bigger event in MAY 12-14 Sculpture Fest. August, this car show does feature the main parts of Hot August Nights: show-n-shines, Featuring rafting as part of the USA Freestyle Now in its third year, this one-of-a-kind live music, food and beverages, and nostalgia National Championships on the Truckee River, festival returns to Reno with sculptures large items on display and for sale. and small, from whimsical to topical, all from there’s also lots of food and drink villages, local and national artists. The event also live music from regional and national artists, Free includes a music stage, interactive displays and a wacky, costumes-encouraged 5K group Downtown Reno and several late-night after parties. bike race called the Reno River Roll on the 775-356-1956 first day. hotaugustnights.net 11 a.m. start each day Free Free admission ReTrac Plaza, downtown Reno Wingfield Park, downtown Reno 775-391-0278 775-841-4444 renosculpturefest.com renovriverfestival.com

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RM0506_038-041_Calendar_V2.indd 40 4/13/17 4:56 PM STREET VIBRATIONS SPRING RALLY many options for the family and a midway STEWART FATHER’S DAY POWWOW JUNE 2-4 complete with rides. JUNE 16-18 Like the mini-Hot-August-Nights above, the Popular side attractions include Mutton This free event draws hundreds to the Stewart Spring Rally is like a pre-event before the big Bustin’ and the Special Kids Rodeo. Indian School site in Carson City to see a event, which is September’s Street Vibrations Admission prices for the arena and times vary variety of American Indian heritage and arts motorcycle rally. Expect live music and on each day: see the website below for the presentations. More than 100 dancers are entertainment, vendors and food and drink. full schedule. expected at the event, which also includes arts and crafts, food and music. Free Livestock Events Center Downtown Reno 1350 N. Wells Ave. Grand Entry times: 7 p.m. June 17, 1 p.m. 775-329-7469 775-329-3877 and 7 p.m. June 18, and noon June 19. roadshowsreno.com renorodeo.com Free admission Stewart Indian School THE MIGHTY TOUR DE NEZ THE GREAT ELDORADO BBQ, BREWS 5500 Snyder Ave., Carson City JUNE 10 & BLUES FESTIVAL 775-687-8333 JUNE 16-17 stewartindianschool.com After a break of many years, this Reno Another of the summer’s classic events, this summer event returned last year. As with the SIERRA NEVADA LAVENDER AND comeback in 2016, the Tour de Nez bike race annual festival features barbecue in many HONEY FESTIVAL winds through downtown Reno. Pros and forms, as well as other food and drink and a JUNE 25 amateurs can be a part of different course ton of live music. options for this race, which also features live The musical selections have been pretty Two types of natural goods that are produced music and refreshments. Registration cost and varied in the past — there’s been blues for in northern Nevada take the spotlight in this route information is online. sure, but also alternative rock and country — summer festival at Victorian Square. Events include product sales and displays, guest tourdenez.com so check the website for the performers when they are announced. speakers, arts and crafts, food and drink, live music and a children’s fun area. RENO RODEO Free admission JUNE 15-24 Outdoors at the Eldorado Resort Casino 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free The rodeo is one of the most popular summer 345 N. Virginia St. Victorian Square, downtown Sparks events in the region. As in past years, expect 775-786-5700 775-690-2581 a parade through downtown Reno (June 17), eldoradoreno.com www.lavenderandhoneyfest.com Xtreme Bulls, all of the classic rodeo events,

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RM0506_038-041_Calendar_V2.indd 41 4/13/17 4:56 PM OUT ON THE TOWN PEOPLE, 1 2 PLACES AND PARTIES BY JOHNATHAN L. WRIGHT PHOTOS BY KRYSTA SCRIPTER AND TOM R. SMEDES 3 4

BREW HAHA Art met ale (and a brace of beards) on Jan. 27 as the annual Brew HaHa fundraiser for the Sierra Arts Foundation returned to the Rose Ballroom of the Nugget Casino Resort in Sparks. The evening featured all- 5 you-could-responsibly-drink beer, an artists village, a raffle, and a no-host bar for folks who wanted a break from 7 the hops.

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1. Courtney Wilson and Joel White 2. Benny and Amanda White 3. Denette and Steve Morgan 4. Brooke Talancom and John Masserschmitt 5. Trevor Polland and Kyle Hanna 6. Jill Simpson and Beth Weber 7. Mike and Jackie Medey 8. Raul Ramierez and Magali Cooks 9. Crystal Medina and Charlie Barone 10. Sam Zavodny and Rian Bardin

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RM0506_042-047_Society_V2.indd 42 4/13/17 4:59 PM WINTER WONDERLAND Local beer, booze and bites took over the place on Feb. 2 at the Atlantis Casino Resort Spa. The occasion? The inaugural Winter Wonderland, a benefit for the Nevada Diabetes Association. The NDA, an entirely local nonprofit, serves about 10,000 people a year with advocacy, education, support, medical supplies and youth camps.

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1. "Siberian Ice Queen" Shannon Abraham and Donald Intihar 2. Matt and Lani Eldridge 3. Chris Mikulich and Donna Bates 4. Rachel and Mark Held 5. Allan and Linda Pedersen 6. Heather Ho man and Jodi Jury 7. Eric and Debbie Dewitt 8. Shannon Bell and Lucas Clark 9. Ryan Hood and Patrick McGuire 10. Dominic Silva-Martin and Kristina Tuason

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RM0506_042-047_Society_V2.indd 43 4/13/17 5:05 PM 1 2

The women in red (and the occasional fella in red, too) brightened the Downtown Reno Ballroom on Feb. 3 for the American Heart Association’s Go Red for Women Luncheon. The yearly gathering, a highlight of the Reno

social season, supports AHA outreach 5 7 that raises awareness about women, heart disease and healthy living.

1. Trista Dewese and Lindsay Hoskins 2. Lady Militante and Kodi Dettliny 3. Amanda Mephail and Clinton Fisher 4. Linda Petrini and Cheryl Adlington 5. Chairwoman Ellie Lopez-Bowlan and Executive Director Karen Rudd 6. Skylar 6 and Dian Vanderwell 7. Jolie Ross, Ashlee Remington, and Leah Medo 8. Danielle Hammons and Ari Henry 9. Peyton Hodel and Marie Moretti 10. Tammy Malley and Lori Brio

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RM0506_042-047_Society_V2.indd 44 4/13/17 5:06 PM 3 4

Folks were feeling blue on Feb. 10 as the Peppermill DISTRIBUTOR OF IT Resort Spa Casino once again WORKS, BARBARA played host property for CONBOY the Blue Tie Ball, a popular Tighten, tone, ﬁrm, and fundraiser for University reduce cellulite bumps with our exclusive Ultimate Body of Nevada student-athlete 4 Applicator, See results in scholarships. Highlights of the as little as 45 minutes with evening: the delicious spread progressive results in just 72 12 the Peppermill provided and hours. Ask me about our other amazing wellness products! ranks of student-athletes It works! performing a dance routine. It Works! barbswrapolution.com 775-240-3595

1. Hiley Dobbs and Adria Barich 2. Great local photos Maddie Dobbins and Sherra Williams make unique gifts 3. Angel Merryweather, Katie Prosser, Our RGJ photographers Nycole Mitsuyasu, and Bryanna Wiehe capture the people, places 4. Mary Ross, Itohan Osayaren, and Kira and events of our vibrant 13 Scott 5. Travis Fredborg and Stephen Osborne 6. Jessica Katsuyama and community. Give a one- Jared Crews 7. Derek Ne and Al King of-a-kind gift of a photo 8. John, Yvonne and Soﬁ a Anxo that was published in the 9. Jamy Keshmiri and Patrick Tanner newspaper or our online 10. Zoe Lei and Sharae Zheng 11. Karla galleries. For information on and Corey Solferino 12. Jessica Hansen ordering a photo reprint, call and Taylor Rothfuss 13. Morgan Beye, Maria Sanchez, and Aubrie Ciesunski 775-788-6342.

RM0506_042-047_Society_V2.indd 45 4/13/17 5:07 PM 1 2

The Cioppino Feed, a beloved charitable evening that benefits the Boys & Girls Club of Truckee Meadows, ran Feb. 25 this year at — as it always 3 does — the Boys & Girls complex in East Reno. Attendees deployed their bibs for bowls of seafood stew, then readied their bids for the feed’s famously lavish auction items.

1. Christi Quatro, Kelli Newman and Be-Be Adams 2. Tyler and Dylan Nall 3. Jessica and Tim Clausen 4. Amanda and Olber Sandoval 5. Eric and Katie Brown 6. Paul and Rosanne Anderson 4 5 6 7. Lauren Sankovich and Emily Angelopoulos 8. Nicole Chavez and Carlo DeSantis 9. Chris Burroughs and Sarah Collin 10. Ron and Kathryn Roose

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RM0506_042-047_Society_V2.indd 46 4/13/17 5:08 PM 1 2

Show us your beads! The Rotary Club of Reno presented its Mardi Gras bash on Feb. 28 at the Reno Events Center. The fête featured tastes from local restaurants, bourbon and lots of other brown spirits, jazz, a silent auction, and scads of purple, gold and green. 4 Tickets and sponsorships helped fund the Rotary Club of Reno’s programs.

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1. Victoria Bernabe and Jared Apostol 2. Tanya and Dominic Polli 3. Gerry Perez and Janel Lovato 4. Amanda McLernon and Caitlin Stewart 5. Sue Tomlinson and Michael McKinney 6. Kris Barbieri and Nancy Meredith 7. Jennifer Henderson and Heidi Thompson 8. Lindsay Goodenow and Sam Samon 9. Rachel Ryback and Donald Eddington

RM0506_042-047_Society_V2.indd 47 4/13/17 5:09 PM L A S T STRAW

greenThe lure of the fairy BY MIKE HIGDON

ABSINTHE MIGHT NOT CAUSE the proof of the alcohol, HALLUCINATIONS (as it was once absinthe just makes thought to do), but that doesn’t make you very drunk.” it any less fun to drink. The green fairy To slow down that spirit started making a comeback after drunkenness, absinthe is it was re-legalized in the U.S. 10 years not something you should ago. Now, it’s appearing in craft bars drink straight like whiskey. around Reno and is being produced by a You can. But just probably regional distiller. shouldn’t. The black licorice-flavored drink looks ornate and could make a great uses anise, fennel, wormwood and other DRIP, DRIP, DRIP bar centerpiece. herbs to create its green color and flavor. Absinthe is one of those old European Smaller absinthe drippers are made for The distillation is like gin in that it drinks best enjoyed with way too many single-glass use and are about $35. Or, starts out as a basic grain-based clear steps. Traditionally, pour one or two you can use a small carafe and just pour spirit that is later infused with herbs. ounces of absinthe into the bottom of slowly over a bar spoon of regular sugar. Except gin herbs don’t impart a color, so an absinthe glass (similar to a Picon Just don’t tell anyone. there’s that. punch glass with a bulb at the bottom of the stem). LOCAL FAIRY THAT SPARKLING FEELING Next, place an absinthe spoon over If you end up enjoying the spirit, it’s worth The high alcohol proof puts absinthe into the top of the glass. Put a sugar cube on another category of booze and is probably the spoon. Finally, slowly drip ice water comparing local Frey Ranch absinthe to responsible for the mythical hallucinations. over the sugar cube using an absinthe absinthe from other American distillers The average bourbon is 90 to 100 proof, fountain until the water melts the sugar like St. George Spirits or Germain-Robin, while the average absinthe is 120 to 140 and fills the glass. available separately in Reno at Whispering proof. “Cask-strength” bourbons come See, absinthe even has its own tools Vine Wine Co., Ben’s Fine Wine & Spirits, closer to this range. and accoutrements. Because it’s French. Total Wine & More, or Craft Wine & Beer. The absinthe herbs can give people a The result is a somewhat murky green For the absinthe fountain experience certain “clarity,” a “sparkling” feeling or white glass of diluted absinthe. The in Reno, stop into Chapel Tavern with and focus after the first drink or two. dilution helps tame the bitter, black a few friends or do it alone at 1864 “This seems to wear off after 20 or 30 licorice flavor and makes it more pleasant. Tavern. And try the absinthe cocktails at minutes, leaving one with an alcohol And also addictive if you like sugar. the Depot or Death and Taxes. RM buzz,” according to Original Absinthe, a Absinthe fountains are a bit expensive,

British absinthe trading company. “Two though (about $200), and probably not Mike Higdon is the city life reporter at RGJ Media. to three glasses of absinthe seems to do something the casual home drinker will He can be found on Instagram @MillennialMike the trick. More than that, depending on use very often. Though the fountain and on Facebook @MikeHigdonReno.

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RM0506_000_Covers_V2.indd 4 4/13/17 3:46 PM Thank youPeter and Turkey Stremmel for bringing architectural significance to our region.

Stremmel House -Sold April, 2017

and very special thankstoour creative team - Mark Curtis, Ron Taft, Jeff Dow, Adam Dalhaus, &Lis Bartlett

RENO

RM0506_000_Covers_V2.indd 5 4/13/17 3:46 PM