RThe Saears ch foer MloroHcco ’s aSecnret Sopicue Blten:d BY ANDREA LYNN & KATE MULCRONE

hile many tourists fruit-filled desserts. There’s simply near Jemaa el Fna, the largest square are baffled by the nothing comparable to it in the United in . Its 35 were ground to labyrinthine streets of States, and for that reason a bag of ras a pleasing but ultimately baffling Marrakech and Fès, the true el hanout struck us as the perfect sou - terra-cotta colored powder. There was mysteries of are venir of Morocco as well as a real chal - no hope of naming more than the top Wfound in its pantries. Right lenge for any hound. “What the notes of , and next to jars of cinnamon, heck is in this stuff?” we wondered. . This was a rookie mistake. cumin and dried root, Determined to crack the case of How can you determine the blend you’ll find , a this mystery spice, we bought a bag of after it’s all ground? Not to be blend of anywhere from 10 to it in Marrakech from a market stall deterred, the next day we bought a 100 spices that is the carefully guarded secret behind any Moroccan cook’s reputation. Ask as politely as you want, but Morocco’s famous hospitality does not extend to revealing the spices or proportions contained in this legendary spice blend.

Ras el hanout became an obsession of ours on a recent trip through Mo - e b

rocco. Translated as “top of the shop,” a r A

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each store makes its own secret blend o s i a

of ingredients. The , also re - M

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ferred to as the lazy wife’s spice, is used f o

y s e for practically everything—to flavor t r u o c

meat in stewlike tagines, to add pi - s o t o quancy to or even to perk up h P

52 CHILE PEPPER NOVEMBER 2009 At dusk, Marrakech’s marketplace Jemaa el Fna, the largest square in Africa, is a spice lover’s paradise.

Buying Ras el Hanout: Buy it ground or purchase it whole and grind it yourself for fresher results. kalustyans.com seasonedpioneers.co.uk thespicehouse.com wholespice.com store.zamourispices.com bag of unground ras el hanout at a stall in the Jewish Quarter of Marrakech and packed it away in the suitcase.

Unpacking Ras El Hanout Some of the spices were a cinch to identify just by sight: star , cinnamon bark, and bright mace. Encouraged by these easy victories, we poured the entire bag of ras el hanout into a large white bowl and began prospecting. There were two slightly different varieties of white and - corns as well as allspice, , , cumin, , and dried and flaked ginger. But what was this caramel- colored seed the size of a popcorn kernel housed in a fragrant pod, the gorgeous bright purple petals or the bitter bark that turned white after chewing it? Cooked are a popular and delicious appetizer in Morocco (top); Morocco’s hospitality extends itself to a constant offering of mint tea everywhere you go, including Jnane Tamsna (below).

Desert Oasis: Where to Stay in Morocco La Maison Arabe, Marrakech First launched as a restaurant in 1946, it was quickly established as one of the leading food destina - tions in the country. Current owner Fabrizio Ruspoli purchased the property in 1995 and spent the next three years renovating and restoring it. The result is a charming hotel with a friendly staff, gorgeous rooms and fabulous food. Also, authentic Moroccan cooking workshops are held at the hotel’s Country Club. lamaisonarabe.com

Jnane Tamsna, Marrakech Developed by Meryanne Loum- Martin over two decades, this countryside collection of individual houses is nestled among nine acres of lush gardens, providing a home- like atmosphere and all the comforts of a hotel. Hands-on cooking workshops available. jnanetamsna.com

Amanjena, Marrakech This resort provides the same We turned to the experts for seven years that Wolfert had the idea superior luxury and service that answers. We’re not the first ones to to introduce the United States to the sets the entire Aman hotel chain smuggle the spice into our suitcases to wonders of Moroccan cooking and ras apart from all others. Vast circular hunt through the ingredients. Thirty- el hanout with her book Couscous and rooms open up to private patios with reflection pools, and guests five years ago, food writer Paula Other Good Food From Morocco , first are treated to classical Spanish Wolfert came home from Morocco published in 1973. Currently, she is cuisine in the restaurant. with a stash of ras el hanout and a revising the edition for a 2011 publi - amanresorts.com/amanjena similar yen to know just what she was cation date. Terres d’Amanar packing. “There’s something so Culinary adventurer Peggy Markel An outdoor wonderland where you d r engaging about ras el hanout. It can leads food tours throughout the world, a can get away from the stress of the o B

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have anywhere from 15 to 100 spices including in Morocco. On her tour, city to enjoy star-gazing, hiking, s i r u each,” she said. “A spice master has students carefully study ras el hanout. zip lines and mountain biking. o T

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terresdamanar.com a c

their own version—blending spices is “The ingredients alone distinguish it c o r really an art.” Wolfert was so intrigued from other cuisines. We pick apart the o M

Sofitel Palais Jamais, Fès e h t that she had a spice importer help her whole ingredients to have a look at Built in 1879 in the finest Moorish d n a

analyze the exact spices in her souvenir what’s really in there and to see if we k style, this luxury hotel with r u T

charming, quaint rooms has s blend. It was composed of 26 spices, can identify them all,” Markel says. i n a J

anything you could ask for, from including ash berries and belladonna. “Not to mention that the blend f o

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restaurants and a spa to a piano s e

One spice listed as gouza el asnab later changes as it goes up and down the t r

bar. Surrounded by superb u o c turned out to be nothing more than coast. Further north it may contain gardens, the Palais Jamais sits high y h p a seeds adhered together with lavender, ginger, galangal, orris root above the Fès medina. sofitel.com r g o t o dirt. It was after living in Morocco for and rose buds. ” h P

54 CHILE PEPPER NOVEMBER 2009 Ras el hanout is somewhat of a in Morocco, are the true selling points. wonder spice. Not only does a pinch of Some versions are even recommended Couscous 101 it add an extra element to dishes both to help women conceive. What? You say you’ve been savory and sweet, it is also known to At Jnane Tamsna, a beautiful villa making couscous by throwing it into have a “warming effect on the blood,” in Marrakech where tourists can take boiling water? Apparently, that’s not but that’s with the addition of a former cooking classes, we poached pears in the way the Moroccans do it. ingredient, cantharides, also known as honey and a careful sanding of ras el According to translator/guide Spanish Fly, which is now banned hanout. The pears become infused Mohammed Nahir, couscous is best when it’s steamed in a double boiler, from being sold in Moroccan spice with the aromatic, woody blend that preferably over flavorful stock. markets. The powder made from the marries well with the fruit of the dish Medium grain couscous is the best, desiccated remains of an emerald and the caramel’s sweetness. Markel since fine grain can get clumpy and green beetle is a known aphrodisiac enjoys it ground with coffee beans, large grain takes much longer to cook. that has been used by humans for and Wolfert also recommends putting Moroccans serve couscous with two bowls of the steaming liquid on centuries. Wolfert theorizes that the a pinch into tagines that incorporate the side: one is the broth straight out reason shopkeepers are so tight-lipped sweetness: “It’s delicious when mixed of the double boiler, and the other is about the exact ingredients in ras el with honey because it mellows out mixed with . “Never follow the hanout is not only because they don’t the sweetness and gives a contrast.” directions on the back of the cous - want to give up the secrets of their Wolfert adds that it’s a hard sell to cous,” urges Paula Wolfert. That package will only yield 6 cups, own blend but because the mystique get Americans onto the homemade ras whereas if you steam it, you can get behind aphrodisiacs like Spanish Fly— el hanout bandwagon because of the 18 cups of the lightest, fluffiest cous - which might not be in it anymore— sheer number of ingredients required. cous to hit your taste buds. and bird’s tongue, another aphrodisiac “In this economy, you can’t ask people d r a o B m s i r u o T n a c c o r o M e h t f o y s e t r u o c o t o h P

NOVEMBER 2009 CHILE PEPPER 55 n n y L

a e r d n A

d n a

e n o r c l u M

e t Cooking instructor/chef Baijah Lafridi roasts chiles for a Moroccan a K

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recipe at Jnana Tamsna; (right) Just a few of the bounty y h

of spices and chiles found at Terres d’Amanar, right on the hills of p a r g

the Atlas Mountains o t o h P to buy 24 spices and put in a pinch of and organic blends of ras el hanout. Sometimes, you’ve got to let these things each,” Wolfert said. Instead, she Okay, so we’ve succumbed to the go and just enjoy how a variety of spices recommends buying the blend at fact that we’ll never conquer the mystery can come together as an ingredient and Kalustyan’s or Seasoned Pioneers out of the exact ingredients in the mix. create something that is greater than of England, which sells both traditional But in the end, does it really matter? its individual components.

Only some like it hot Although Moroccans are spice addicts, they haven’t always been partial to Chicken Tagine adding a dose of heat to their food. Markel points out that, like in any culture, the with Preserved use of spices is personal. “Moroccans prefer spice as opposed to heat. They like it and Olives as an accent. They don’t seem to use it to ‘thin the blood’ as they do in other cultures; it is used more for taste. I see it used more traditionally, in olive mixes and as Yield: 4 servings • Factor: Mild well as in the broth for couscous.” Recipe adapted from La Maison Arabe. Peggy Markel says that Moroccans believe it’s important to keep the system warm. “Tagine” refers to a stewlike entrée that’s “They are not at all interested in digesting cold food. They drink hot tea in the summer - cooked in a clay pot, as well as to the time, and they eat meat with spices and cooked fruit. They have chosen only spices to vessel itself. Tagines (the clay pot) can be slightly lift the palate and keep their bloodstreams warm. A cold system breeds disease.” set on the stovetop or soaked in water and Harissa, a thick, hot paste of red chiles, cumin and olive oil that is a staple in neighboring and Tunisia, is making inroads in Morocco. “When I first used on the grill. Don’t have a tagine? walked on Moroccan soil, harissa didn’t even exist,” says Paula Wolfert. “At that Never fear; just use a Dutch oven. time, it wasn’t in the tradition of Moroccans to use harissa. Moroccan food is more sweet and savory, not sweet and spicy. It was foreigners, like us, who would find 2 preserved (recipe, page 58) the food a little bland.” 3 cloves, minced Harissa can be found all over North Africa, but some Moroccans aren’t afraid to import their heat from further afield. It was Mohammed Nahir, our tour guide and 1 bunch , minced a translator at La Maison Arabe’s cooking workshop in Marrakech, who admitted 1 bunch cilantro, minced that an American favorite is just as popular in Morocco as harissa—Tabasco . 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper “For the last 20 to 30 years, Tabasco has been available in big markets. I use it in 2 teaspoons salads with tomatoes and peppers to make things a little spicy,” he said. 2 teaspoons ras el hanout

56 CHILE PEPPER NOVEMBER 2009 Chicken Tagine with and Olives Tagine courtesy of Emile Henry, emilehenry.com e n l i M l l i B y b o t o h P 1 1 pinch , optional If the juice released from the ⁄4 cup ( ⁄2 stick) unsalted butter 1 1 whole chicken, cut into pieces squashed fruit does not cover them, 1 ⁄2 cups 1 red onion, finely chopped add freshly squeezed lemon juice. 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 3 tablespoons olive oil Leave ⁄4 inch of air space at the top 1 teaspoon ground ras-el-hanout 15 to 20 kalamata olives of jar, and seal. Let the lemons ripen in a warm and core the pears, then trim Cut the preserved lemons in half, and place, shaking the jar each day to the bottoms slightly so they sit flat. separate the flesh from the peel. distribute the and juice, for 30 In a large, heavy saucepan over 1 Reserve the peel, and chop the flesh. days. To use, rinse the lemons, as medium heat, stir the sugar with ⁄4 In a large bowl combine lemon, needed, under running water. There is cup water until it dissolves. Raise the garlic, parsley, cilantro, pepper, no need to refrigerate after opening. heat to high, and cook until the turmeric, ras el hanout and saffron. Preserved lemons will keep up to a syrup comes to a boil and turns Coat the chicken in this marinade, year, and the pickling juice remaining golden brown, about 5 minutes. and add in onion. in the jar can be reused to make a new Remove the pan from the heat, whisk In a large tagine or Dutch oven, batch of preserved lemons two or three in the butter and 2 tablespoons of warm the olive oil over medium heat, times over the course of a year. water. Slowly, whisk in orange juice and sear the chicken on all sides for to combine. about 20 minutes. After the chicken Add the pears to the sauce, posi - has been seared, add 3 cups of water, tioning them well apart from each and simmer for 45 minutes. After the Ras el Hanout Spiced other. Sprinkle with cinnamon, and sauce has thickened, add the lemon Poached Pears cook over low heat for 10 minutes, peel and the olives. Cook for another Yield: 4 Servings • Zest Factor: Mild pushing the pears around occasion - 5 minutes and serve. Recipe adapted from Jnane Tamsna’s ally with a spatula, so they won’t cooking workshop. stick. Sprinkle ras el hanout over the pears, and cook until softened, about 4 large Anjou pears 15 minutes longer. Serve drizzled 3 Moroccan Preserved ⁄4 cup sugar with sauce. Lemons 1 Yield: 1 ⁄2 cups • Zest Factor: Mild Recipe adapted from Paula Wolfert’s book, Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco . If you want to add extra zing, Ras el Hanout Spiced add a few chiles to the mix. Poached Pears

For the lemons: 5 lemons 1 ⁄4 cup salt, divided, plus extra if needed For safi mixture (optional): 1 cinnamon stick 3 cloves 5 to 6 seeds 3 to 4 black peppercorns 1 freshly squeezed lemon juice, if necessary

Partially quarter the lemons by slicing 1 them from the top, stopping ⁄2 inch from the bottom, sprinkle salt on the exposed flesh, then reshape the fruit. Place 1 tablespoon salt on the bottom of a Mason jar. Pack in the lemons, and push them down, adding more salt, and the safi spices, if using, between the layers. Press the lemons down to release their juices and to make room for the remaining lemons.

58 CHILE PEPPER NOVEMBER 2009 Yield: 1 cup • Zest Factor: Hot Recipe by Andrea Lynn. Do you need to rev up a meal in a hurry? This fabulous multipurpose blend can be used as a hot sauce, paste or marinade. It’s an easy go- to blend for any food that needs a spicy pick-me-up. Marinate tilapia in cher - moula for 30 minutes, and then broil, stir it into , or spread it under the skin of chicken thighs before sautéing. The options are endless. Remove the seeds from the serrano chiles if you want to tame the fire of this sauce.

1 small yellow onion, peeled and chopped, or 3 whole scallions, chopped 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 serrano chiles, diced 1 teaspoon 1 teaspoon cumin salt and black pepper Harissa 1 ⁄2 teaspoon lemon juice 1 1 ⁄4 to ⁄2 cup canola oil juice of half a lemon 1 pint cherry tomatoes In a food processor or blender, add salt, to taste 4 garlic cloves, whole onion or scallions, garlic, chiles, 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided paprika, cumin, salt, pepper, lemon salt and freshly ground pepper juice and 2 tablespoons water. Purée In a food processor or blender, add 2 tablespoon chopped parsley the ingredients, adding a thin stream all ingredients except salt. Purée, 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed of canola oil while blending to emul - slowly pouring in the olive oil to lemon juice sify and thicken the mixture (Note: emulsify and thicken mixture (Note: 1 teaspoon cumin 1 All of the oil may not be needed.). All of the oil may not be needed.). ⁄2 teaspoon sweet paprika 1 Adjust salt, pepper and lemon juice Season to taste with salt and extra ⁄2 teaspoon harissa or hot sauce to taste. lemon juice. In an oven-safe pan or foil-lined baking sheet, combine eggplant, toma - toes, garlic, 1 tablespoon olive oil, salt Harissa Zaalouk and pepper. Place in a 400° oven, and 1 Yield: about ⁄2 cup • Zest Factor: Hot Yield: 2 cups • Zest Factor: Medium roast about 30 minutes. Keep an eye Recipe by Andrea Lynn. The traditional Recipe by Andrea Lynn. Chopped on the garlic cloves and remove them authentic way to make harissa is to grind salads came to Morocco courtesy of if they start to burn. the ingredients in a mortar and pestle. But the French who moved there. Transfer the roasted garlic to a who can argue with the ease of a blender Moroccans put their own spin on it, medium bowl, mash it to a paste, and or food processor? Harissa is nothing using mainly cooked ingredients and whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons more than a Moroccan hot sauce, so use serving them warm or at room temper - olive oil, salt, pepper, parsley, lemon it the same way. We like to mix it, ature. Fès has glorious cooked salads juice, cumin, paprika and harissa or Moroccan-style with olives, dollop it into with grilled chiles, marinated carrots, hot sauce. Add roasted tomatoes and or spread it onto a sandwich. puréed cauliflower and . eggplant to the dressing. Stir to Zaalouk is a traditional Moroccan combine, and refrigerate until cool, 2 whole roasted red peppers, seeds cooked made from eggplant and about 2 hours. CP removed tomato, that works well as a side to 1 garlic any meal. 1 tablespoon cayenne powder Kate Mulcrone is a writer and editor living ⁄2 in Brooklyn, NY. Kate and Senior Editor 1 ⁄2 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 large eggplant, peeled and chopped Andrea Lynn both united in their love for 1 ⁄2 teaspoon cumin to a medium size this unique spice blend for this feature.

NOVEMBER 2009 CHILE PEPPER 59