6 november 1, 2017

fashion The Hunt’s on at ● With Christopher Bailey soon Christopher Bailey creative team of late with the hire earlier exiting the British house, this year of Sabrina Bonesi, who had pre- viously worked for Prada and , as will ceo Marco Gobbetti stick design director for leather goods and to his word of experimenting shoes, a new role. He has also promoted to “create a new energy a designer from within the company to work on women’s wear and is understood and positivity?” to be in the process of hiring a men’s wear By Samantha Conti with contributions one. from Katya Foreman, Luisa Zargani Gobbetti said that while he’s sad to see and Natalie Theodosi Bailey leave, “We have a clear vision for the next chapter to accelerate the growth and success of the Burberry brand. I am LONDON — The heat is on to find Chris- excited about the opportunity ahead topher Bailey’s successor at Burberry, and for our teams, our partners and our the question remains, will Marco Gobbetti shareholders.” be true to his word? It’s up to Gobbetti now to make his Burberry’s new chief executive officer, own mark on Burberry — something that a fashion management star who helped would have been difficult with Bailey still steer and Céline to success, around. And while his inbox may already declared during his first annual general be brimming with tasks, his top priority meeeting in July that Burberry needed to now is finding a new designer who’ll help take more risks. him pen a new chapter for the 161-year- The company, he said, “must evolve old brand. and try new things. We have to experi- It’s unlikely that person will have the ment, to create. We have to ask ourselves title of chief creative officer — which was tough questions, and be bold in all areas created for Bailey when Ahrendts was ceo of the business in order to create a new — and he or she will answer to Gobbetti, energy and positivity.” rather than the chairman of the board. It’s Gobbetti was expected do all that along- “We have a clear vision for the next also unlikely that Burberry will promote side Bailey, Burberry’s president and chief talent from within its ranks. creative officer, but that was not to be: chapter to accelerate the growth and success “It’s a huge position and they need a On Tuesday, Bailey said he plans to step of the Burberry brand.” strong creative head — what happened down in 2018 after 17 years on the job. with Alessandro Michele at is pretty And now Bailey’s exit could trig- — Marco Gobbetti, Burberry rare,” said Riccardo Tortato, fashion ger another big shuffle in fashion’s director of e-commerce, and men’s fash- merry-go-round. Phoebe Philo ion director at Tsum. Many would argue that Gobbetti’s new Philo and Gobbetti are a proven team, creative chief is right under his nose: and there are those who say it’s high time Phoebe Philo, whose future at Céline has for a woman — and an English one in par- been the subject of speculation, and who’s ticular — to take the Burberry helm. said to be getting itchy feet after nine “Phoebe has the vision,” said Laura years at the LVMH-owned fashion house. Vernier, partner at the -based head- If Philo does take up the role next year, hunter Jouve & Associés. “She is truly she’ll need replacing at Céline, creating one of a kind, a highly intelligent artistic more uncertainty in the designer mar- director — and English.” ket. It’s still unclear when, if and in what Agnès Barret, principal of the Par- capacity Kim Jones might land at , is-based creative search firm Agent Secret, while ex-Givenchy couturier Riccardo called Burberry “the most British of Tisci remains on the sidelines — but still British brands” and said Philo, has a “real working with Nike — after his Versace knack” for reviving heritage labels. “She gig fell through. Alber Elbaz has been has a perfect understanding of clothing keeping a low profile after leaving , and would be capable of injecting moder- although he’s said to be working on a nity into the brand, while staying true to project in London, unrelated to Burberry. its patrimony and DNA.” Bailey, one of fashion’s longest-serv- Katie Grand, stylist and editor of Love ing creative directors along with Marc magazine, said it’s the right moment for Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, Elbaz at Lanvin, Burberry to hire a woman: “Phoebe is Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta — and Karl hugely talented and has proven that she Lagerfeld at Chanel and Fendi — had long works well within big corporations.” talked about a forging a strong partner- Grand also pointed out there were ship with Gobbetti, much like the ones “a lot of beige macs” in Philo’s lat- he enjoyed with former ceo’s Rose Marie est Céline collection in what might have Bravo and Angela Ahrendts. been a stealth audition for the big role. While Bailey was never expected to stay In retrospect, that navy trench dress and at Burberry forever, his quick exit — a few the white the leather poncho that closed months after passing the ceo torch to Gob- Céline’s spring show might have also been betti — took many by surprise inside and a wink at Philo’s former boss. outside the company. On Tuesday, Burb- Rachel Saywell-Burr, founder and man- erry shares closed down 1 percent at 19.02 aging director of Talent Atelier, a creative pounds on the London Stock Exchange. headhunting agency, said while Philo Bailey’s decision marks the end of an would bring a very different aesthetic era and of the Burberry he fashioned, to Burberry, the move would be a good with its rumpled edges and polished one. “The next step for her really is to Mario Testino campaigns, its military take on something enormous, like Burb- details, sweeps of classic tailoring, and erry, or step out on her own, which is an nods to his beloved worlds of pop music, incredibly overwhelming proposition.” 20th-century British art and retro-ro- Saywell-Burr added there’s also the risk E ichner Steve Philo by u/ A P/ RE X/Shutterstock; mance with many a pleat and ruffle. that Burberry goes too commercial with Next February will likely be the last its next creative leader. “The move of incent Y time that Bailey runs out at the end of the getting Marco on board from Céline shows show, and if a replacement isn’t found in that the owners of the business want to time, his design studio will take care of keep that element of luxury there — and the September 2018 collection. when we think of luxury, we naturally

Bailey has been busy reinforcing his Continued on page 7 V by photograph B ailey november 1, 2017 7

York-based handbag and ac- launched earlier this month. — told WWD that he can’t be in handle corporate personali- cessories maker, from Loewe, He designs men’s wear and the same place all the time, so ties? Can he handle working Who Could Take where he had been creative women’s wear. adding London to the mix might for a FTSE 100 behemoth like director. Prior to that, Stuart be tricky. He refers to himself Burberry? Christopher Bailey’s Vevers was the creative direc- Cons: Would Tisci’s fierce and an “intense worker,” and said tor of Mulberry from 2005 to edgy image work for the British he has to remove himself from 2008. Vevers has also worked heritage label, and would he time to time, otherwise people Role at Burberry? at Calvin Klein, Bottega Veneta, be able to capture the English who work with him will go crazy. Givenchy and Louis Vuitton. aesthetic? Could he handle a Also, it’s unlikely that Kering While Phoebe Philo may be the first name on He is recognized as one of the big machine like Burberry? would agree to a Burberry many lips, WWD takes a look at some of the top accessories designers in tie-up. the business, which would be a other candidates for the Burberry job. boon for Burberry.

Cons: About every six months, Cons: Would Vevers want to rumors surface that Philo is leave a label that he’s success- Kim Jones ready to exit Céline, and LVMH fully reshaped? Would he want Pros: Currently men’s artistic has said she is not leaving just to leave New York and return to director at Louis Vuitton, Kim yet. While Philo is considered cloudy London? Jones is known for his sporty, one of the biggest stars of street style and cool-kid vibe. her generation and while she The English designer joined has an affinity for men’s wear Tomas Maier Vuitton from Dunhill where he design, her focus remains was creative director from on women’s wear. That said, Pros: German-born Tomas Alber Elbaz 2008 to 2011, and he’s also Maier has been the creative Phoebe Philo her masculine creations for Pros: Last month, when WWD worked at Uniqlo, Topman, Céline, including trousers, boxy director of Bottega Veneta asked Alber Elbaz about his Umbro, Mulberry, McQ by Alex- Pros: Phoebe Philo, the British jackets and button-down shirts, since 2001, and founded his future projects he said, “silence ander McQueen, Hugo Boss designer known for her sleek suggest otherwise. namesake men’s wear and is a beautiful thing.” That said, and Iceberg. He also has an and sophisticated aesthetic, women’s wear brands in 1997, he’ll be speaking at the Vogue intrinsic understanding of what has been creative director at which, thanks to a partnership Fashion Festival next month kids today want to wear. Céline since 2008, and before with Kering, has expanded in Paris. The Moroccan-Israeli that logged a seven-year Riccardo Tisci into a full lifestyle proposition. fashion designer rejuvenated Cons: While the designer has stint at the creative helm of Pros: Riccardo Tisci is a major He has also worked at Guy Lanvin with his delicate draping made his mark creating men’s Chloé. At Céline she worked Italian talent and he’s no longer Laroche, Sonia Rykiel and and ultra feminine aesthetic. wear, Jones has no design closely with Burberry’s current headed to Versace to work Revillon, where he was creative His striking use of jewelry and experience in women’s wear, chief executive officer Marco with Donatella. Recruited for director. Maier spent nine years his soft touch could be a boon although that hasn’t stopped Gobbetti, ramping up sales to Givenchy by Marco Gobbetti working at Hermès, where he for Burberry. him from pursuing a job at nearly a billion euros, and there designed women’s rtw and

X/Shutterstock when Tisci was an unknown, Versace. He’s still contracted are those who suspect that RE the designer notched 12 some leather goods and ac- Cons: While Elbaz certainly to Vuitton, although sources her spring 2018 show, with its successful years at the French cessories. An all-rounder. has the design talent, he is a say he wants to move to . oung/ Y trenches and rugged outer- Stuart Vevers house and has currently been sensitive soul and an emo- Talking to Burberry would only wear, was a test run for the Pros: In 2013, the British working with Nike, most recent- Cons: Maier — who lives tional man. Does he have the complicate things further. ichard ichard Burberry job. between New York and Florida R designer joined Coach, the New ly on a basketball range, which strength — or patience — to — Lorelei Marfil

can handle the Burberry heat. could also take an unexpected turn: annualized savings by fiscal 2018-19. The Hunt’s on “I put my hands together and pray that “We’ve seen other luxury brands look Against the new, more austere back- At Burberry they don’t do a Dior and make havoc with outside the traditional circuits, opting for drop, Bailey waived his bonus in fiscal X/Shutterstock; Jones by by Jones X/Shutterstock; the brand,” said Emma Davidson, man- unusual and disruptive choices — think of 2016-17 for the second year running, RE / continued from page 6 aging director of London-based Denza, Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga. Maybe that although he was still able to collect about BFA which specializes in design and non-de- is another way to go.” 10.5 million pounds when part of a 1 migrate over to Phoebe.” sign recruitment for the fashion industry. Anita Barr, group fashion buying direc- million chunk of shares he was awarded She said Céline is “the number-one “I think Phoebe Philo would be a great tor at Harvey Nichols, said her money in 2013 vested last July. brand when you think true luxury, what choice — British, strong character but a is on Tisci. “I think both Riccardo and Bailey’s salary last year was 1.1 mil- enjamin Lozovsky/

B she’s done is so new, innovative and little bit softer. There were great people Phoebe Philo would bring something new lion pounds, flat on the previous year. different to what we had seen. Look at the internally at Burberry who would have to Burberry and I’m excited to see who it He received benefits and allowances of lbaz by lbaz by

E brand beforehand when Michael Kors was been good to ‘do a Gucci,’ but they left. I will be,” she said. 469,000 pounds; 330,000 pounds in pen- at the helm. She has already worked with would like to see a couple doing it. Like at Asked about possible successors to Bai- sion contributions, and 240,000 pounds, Marco, they have that synergy, he trusts Jil Sander. Not just a single person. It would ley, Giovanna Brambilla, partner at Milan- in a share plan. her opinion.” make a nice image. Whoever it is, the brand based executive search firm Value Search, In addition, he scooped an exceptional

X/Shutterstock; X/Shutterstock; As much as a Gobbetti-Philo encore could do with softening up,” she said. said Gobbetti will have to make a choice share award of 1.4 million pounds, as part RE / might work, it’s not a given. While sources Mathias Ohrel, founder of m-O, a depending on whether he wants Burb- of a performance-linked bonus agreed BFA have told WWD that Philo has slowly Paris-based luxury recruitment firm, sees erry “to embrace accessible or affordable in 2014 when he took on the added role ell/

arr been preparing her exit, a spokesman for Bailey’s successor as someone experi- luxury, or pure luxury. Only by knowing of ceo. That 1.4 million pounds payout F

illy LVMH “categorically” denied “any immi- enced in accessories and leather goods, Burberry’s strategic positioning could we represents a fraction of the share tranche B nent departure” of Philo from Céline. “where you need to be marketing and guess the designer — and it’s up to the ceo that he received.

aier by aier by Even if she does leave Céline, there’s business savvy as much as creative.” and the board to define that.” Going forward, new management hires M no guarantee Philo will want to take on as He pointed to former Bally design Mary Gallagher, European associate for at Burberry will see their perks slashed big a machine as Burberry, with its 2.77 director Pablo Coppola. “But will Burb- the New York-based search firm Martens and the company also plans to trim billion pounds in revenue and a market erry take the risk?” he asked. He also & Heads, which counts Burberry among pension contributions for new, external capitalization of 8.14 billion pounds. named “the uber-talented” Johnny Coca, its clients, said the new designer would executive director appointments. Burb-

y Stephen Lovekin; Lovekin; y Stephen Céline’s turnover is now in the ballpark who has already worked with Gobbetti at have to respect the very British DNA of erry will also remove “sign on” bonus of 800 million euros, having more than Céline.” Coca is already taken, though, the brand that Bailey helped to craft. or share awards, other than buyouts on isci b T quadrupled in size since Philo arrived — having joined Mulberry as creative direc- “If Clare Waight Keller hadn’t gone to recruitment. and the French brand doesn’t have to live tor in 2015. Givenchy, I would have felt her a shoo-in. In line with the more straightened times, in the blinding glare of financial markets Saywell-Burr of Talent Atelier said Elbaz And someone like Kim Jones would be Burberry confirmed on Tuesday that Bailey such as Burberry. is someone who “certainly still has a lot another strong contender for Burberry,” waived some of the future share awards he X/Shutterstock; X/Shutterstock;

RE “The signs are pointing in Phoebe left to do, but with something as large as Gallagher said. would have been entitled to as part of the Philo’s direction for a number of reasons, Burberry and with such a huge focus on “Had some of the people not already brand’s incentive plans. Based on yester- ermin/ F including the fact she has worked with digital and retail, it may not suit the level been sewn up by other groups or brands, day’s share price, those awards are worth bel

A Marco before,” said Caroline Pill, vice of company that he would work with.” like a Christopher Kane or a Nicholas 16 million pounds. president, global executive search Kirk One Italian headhunter suggested Tisci Kirkwood or a Stella McCartney, those The company also pointed out that Bai- vers by by vers e Palmer Associates. as a potential candidate, calling him an designers could also be very strong for ley won’t receive any cash bonus for the V “Her appointment would make beauti- “innovator” who would bring added value Burberry because I think you need some- period after March 2018, when he steps ful sense. That said, we’ve been surprised to the brand. Other industry insiders one who can steer a very big ship.” down from the board of directors. by many things this year, so it’s hard to argued that while Tisci may be a creative Whomever the new designer is, they That said, Bailey doesn’t have to worry

X/Shutterstock; X/Shutterstock; say what will happen.” genius, he’s not an easy personality and will be walking into a very different com- on the fiscal front. When he leaves the RE / Industry sources have also floated might have trouble coping with a com- pany than the one Bailey knew for most of company in December 2018, Bailey will

BEI Elbaz, Jones, Tisci, Maier and Stuart pany the size and scale of Burberry. his career at Burberry. walk away with a payout of up to 12 Vevers as possibilities — but only if they The headhunter added that Burberry In 2016, on Bailey’s watch as ceo, Burb- million pounds, from his salary, benefits, erry laid out a restructuring and cost-sav- pension payments and share awards. ings plan aimed at reshaping the company He said Tuesday he plans to pursue for a future of slower growth in fashion new creative projects, and sources have “I am excited about the opportunity ahead for and luxury goods and a digitally engaged, said Bailey won’t be bouncing to another want-it-now customer base. brand any time soon. Both Bailey and our teams, our partners and our shareholders.” As part of that plan, Burberry is aiming Gobbetti declined to comment following

Philo photograph by Gregory Pace/ Gregory by Philo photograph — Marco Gobbetti, Burberry to deliver at least 100 million pounds in the announcement Tuesday morning.