Diary of a mantella man FEATURE | MANTELLA MAN be like. We finally arrived at the forest entrance; I stopped for a moment to admire its utter unspoiled beauty, before Searching for the critically carrying on. endangered golden mantella The winding path alone revealed an (Mantella aurantiaca) at the incredible diversity of fauna and flora. I Menalamaba locality. couldn’t believe what I was seeing. Our first encounter with an amphibian involved a species of frog that was similar in size to a mantella species, looking very similar to Mantella betsileo. It turned out to be a member of a different genus, called Mantidactylus Mantellas are very small, and far from conspicuous in their native habitat. melanopleura. We watched it for awhile, where he was and then the caption ecstatic to have reached as it moved through appeared on-screen, explaining that it my destination, and the vegetation, until it was footage from a programme entitled with all the excitement, I disappeared. Zoo Quest to Madagascar, which had been was up ready to go at Carrying on our hike, broadcast in 1961. 6.30am - hours earlier than the pathway became That was it! I had to learn more about was needed! steeper and steeper and this strange place so I grabbed my After a relatively short day at much denser, thanks to the children’s encyclopedia, and began the facility for my first day, I started foliage surrounding it. Suddenly, flicking through the pages until I did to walk back, stopping at the reception my guide stopped unexpectedly. I discover something about Madagascar. area beforehand so I could check the ‡ One of the more almost ended up knocking him over in Little did I know then that what I found prices for the guides and see the different demanding treks you can the process and instinctively apologised, would change my life completely, tours that are available. In a moment of go on is in the Mitsinjo but without speaking, he simply pointed Forest Reserve. shaping my entire future, and driving me spontaneity, I decided to try my luck and towards the foliage. I stared hard, to pursue a career in the field of zoology. enter the forest to find the famous Indri scanning the area until I spotted a tiny I saw these incredibly small but brightly lemur (Indri indri) and more importantly movement that revealed what he had coloured species of frogs that were to me, any species of reptile or amphibian found. described as mantellas. They were so that happened to be there. It was a stunning brown horned beautiful that it started a passion that I had been listening to the siren-like pygmy chameleon (Brookesia superciliaris). before long had expanded to embrace all calls of these lemurs for most of the I grabbed a nearby stick and the lizard the wildlife endemic to this amazing morning, but I had never anticipated that climbed upon it, allowing me to study it Joshua Ralph fulfills a long- island. And now, I finally had the they would be so easy to hear and also, ˆ An Indri lemur in the more closely. Even though it is not the time ambition, and heads to opportunity to go there for the first time that the lemurs would be so near! I Madagascan forest. smallest species of Brookesia, it was still † Adventures in in my life. decided, much to the shock of my guide, the Mitsinjo Amphibian that I would go on the 4-5 hour hike, Breeding Facility in Andasibe, ● Dateline March 1st, 2015: even though I had still not fully recovered 12.30pm to 5.25pm. from the flights of the previous day. Madagascar, from where he Mitsinjo Forest, Andasibe – sends this report. into the forest. Initial sightings This is my first proper day in Madagascar. So, we headed off into the forest, and I Madagascar Journeys around the island can be slow, was keen to locate the wildlife that I had Introduction and it had taken me all of the previous dreamt about seeing for so long to see. It had been a dream of mine, ever since I day to travel from the capital My head was an assortment of different was a young boy of seven years old, to Antananarivo to Andasibe. Now I am thoughts and I was curious as to what it travel to the mysterious island known as Madagascar that lies off the east coast of A lot of species in Madagascar Africa, and has the title of “Island of are yet to be given common Marvels”. This country is home not just to names, just like this Mantidactylus melanopleura an incredible range of fauna and flora, but specimen that I found in the it also boasts some of the most unique Mitsinjo forest Reserve. wildlife on the planet. The island offers some of the most dramatic landscapes as well, in addition to being one of the world’s most significant biodiversity hotspots, attracting increasing numbers of botanists, ornithologists and herpetologists. For me, it all started when I saw some old black and white clips during a BBC documentary with Sir David † In spite of the island’s Attenborough. I sat watching Sir David position close to Africa, the wildlife on walking around woodlands and climbing Madagascar is generally trees to show viewers different species of unique, being found chameleon. I remember wondering nowhere else. All photos except p38b, p39t, p39br, p40-41t courtesy of the author. p39br, p39t, p38b, except All photos 38 | Practical Reptile Keeping MAY 2014 | 39 FEATURE | MANTELLA MAN

A golden mantella (Mantella unbelievable how tiny it was - yet aurantiaca) breeding pond, obviously, it has everything it needs to but Joshua’s trip took place live - a miniature heart, liver, lungs, towards the end of their everything… Truly amazing! Its horns breeding season in the wild. above the eyes nevertheless looked quite imposing. After this encounter, my guide then disappeared into the forest saying that he was going to look for the Indri lemurs and would work out which route we should follow, to have the best chance of finding them… An amphibian paradise! After 10 minutes, he returned and pointed me in an easterly direction, so we carried on making our way through the forest. I was eager to see more species as A female golden mantella we headed off again. I didn’t have long to (Mantella aurantica). wait either. All of a sudden, we left the forest and emerged into an open area with an incredibly large pond at its centre. A huge chorus of both anuran and invertebrate calls literally rang in my ears as I stood there. It really was that loud! We were then in an area known as the Parc des Orchidee (Orchid Park) and amphibians were everywhere around us. The most common species that I spotted, which is incredibly numerous within its distribution, is the Madagascan jumping frog (Aglyptodactylus madagascariensis). This is a species that I had seen before in many different ‡ Boophis species of thirty specimens in total; it was an the reality of the situation and the risk, but tree frog can also be books, but never in life. vividly coloured, like awe-inspiring sight, and definitely one of there could be no turning back, now that Males undergo a mantellas. the highlights of the walk for me. I’d come this far! In fact, I had quite a sense remarkable colour change Sadly, the time passed very quickly, and of exhilaration once we were all safely before the breeding Left: The Malagasy before long, we had to head back to the across. Years after I first saw these frogs in jumping frog season, being transformed (Aglyptodactylus entrance to the forest. It was a wonderful my children’s encyclopedia, I was finally to a beautiful bright yellow madagascariensis) is introduction to the biodiversity that exists there, at the famous and most studied site or orange, reminding me of incredibly common within on the island, It truly was an enthralling of the locality population of the golden the colours of a canary. its distribution range. first time out in the forest, and I simply mantella. There wasn’t just a solitary couldn’t wait to explore more of the The woodlands were not only boggy male here or there. We must island… because of the rains, making perfect have seen approximately twenty to breeding habitat for this species, but the ● Dateline March 3rd, 2015: trees and shrubs themselves were also time 06.36am incredibly close and dense. This made it Menalamba, Torotorofotsy Wetlands very difficult for someone of my height to – in search of wild mantellas traverse the area without getting caught Four days into my adventure to up in branches. Madagascar and with only two weeks (at We searched and searched, listening most) left of the breeding season for intently for the highly recognisable calling mantellas in the wild, I decided that I of the species, under the calling of multiple would take the chance to see if I could other species of amphibians, including find wild specimens of both the golden members of the Boophis and Guibemantis mantella (Mantella aurantiaca) and yellow genera and more, but to no avail. I studied mantella (Mantella crocea) in their severely the breeding ponds closely, peering into fragmented distribution areas in the Boggy surroundings After a short hike of some 45 minutes, ‡ Most of the primary the water to see if tadpoles were present. Andasibe region. The route we followed was along an old, we reached the sign informing us that we rainforest left outside the However, all that I could see were reserves can be found on So after hiring a recommended guide, abandoned train line that had been used were now about to enter the Torotorofotsy the tops of hillsides, like Mantidactylus-like offspring. Fano, and a local guide called Rennie, to transport timber for years from the Wetlands. However, before I could begin this area that I saw on the Devin Edmonds and myself decided to Torotorofotsy region. The route was now my eagerly awaited search for the way to the Torotorofotsy. Moving on A pygmy horned travel to the Torotorofotsy Wetlands, and obviously abandoned, apart from the odd mantellas, one major obstacle lay ahead. After an hour of fruitless searching, I made chameleon (Brookesia started our hike to the Menalamba area small collection of huts along the way. It We had to cross an insecure makeshift my way back to the pathway and met with superciliaris) that we stumbled upon in the (which translates basically as ‘red cloth’ in was also flooded in parts, because of heavy bridge about 7.6m (25ft) in length, above a Devin. We discussed our options and undergrowth, concealed Malagasy). This is known to be a locality of overnight rain that had saturated the soil. It now fast-flowing stream. decided to move on to the next locality. by perfect defensive the critically endangered golden mantella made walking difficult, causing us to slip A mixture of thoughts and emotions We called out to our guides. They camouflage. (Mantella aurantiaca). and sink into the resulting mud. went through my mind. It brought home responded by beckoning us over to them. 

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Rennie,the local guide who only spoke Malagasy, informed us that his colleague The Torotorofotsy Wetlands – to the top left of the photo lies the direction of the Ambatovy Nickle Mine, which is believed to have caused the extinction of four localities Fano had succeeded and found of this species. specimens. This was incredibly exciting, and I headed in haste in the hope of fulfilling my childhood dream. Each step felt like time had slowed, as if my mind was savouring this historical moment, until finally, I came across Fano kneeling upon the floor guarding and protecting the two most beautiful golden mantella specimens that I had ever seen. These were a completely different colour to what I was used to, being a much richer Our entrance into the shade, and they were bigger in size as Menalamba locality of the well. Torotorofotsy Wetlands. I stood in awe at first, and then crouched down to get a better view, photographing them at the same time to capture this unforgettable moment. They stumbled upon next. were a true pair, and apparently, the male Walking through the brush, I could have sensed the disturbance in the almost lost my footing and area, because he was only calling in landed partly in a deep unusually short bursts. Nevertheless when square-shaped hole. I knew he had stopped at one stage, the female what this was immediately, emerged and was spotted by our guides. but as we were in the It had taken Fano and Rennie an entire protected area that was hour to track the pair down on the forest patrolled, so I hadn’t floor. thought that we would I spent 20 minutes studying the frogs encounter one of these and admiring their elegance and beauty. excavations. It was a 6m Interestingly, apart from the difference in ‡ It took a long time and (20ft) deep shaft dug by a lot of patience, but we their appearance, both were different in finally found a true pair of gold miners. their colouration. Eventually, I knew it was golden mantellas This is apparently very time to go, as I did not want to stress (Mantella aurantiaca). common, however, according to them unnecessarily. my guide. Worryingly, it also The walk back was full of promise, but appeared to be a new hole. Part of the also made me wonder what else we problem is that in areas where golden might find that day, as we still had the † Joshua with his mantellas are to be found, so local people possibility of discovering more mantellas dream realised. down yellow mantellas in the locality of to reach our destination. When we finally ‡ A gold mining shaft in believe there is gold. The view is that veins at the next locality, not to mention on our Bakozetra, which is just north of the arrived, it was immediately clear that this a protected area. of gold can be found beneath their hike through the Mantadia forests. Torotorofotsy Wetlands. However, first we was an entirely different environment, breeding ponds, accounting for the frog’s went to another locality where golden which was interesting as it was much more colouration. Of course, there is no link, but ● Dateline March 3rd, 2015: ˆ These mantellas are mantellas are known to exist. This like rainforest than boggy marshland. unfortunately, sometimes gold has been time 10.08am not so much golden as represents a bigger site than the one we found in these localities, reinforcing the Bakozetra, north of the Torotorofotsy orange-red in colour. This had just visited, being home to many more A hidden trap rumour, as well as posing another direct may be the result of their Wetlands – seeking wild yellow mantellas. diet or genetics – or a specimens. Heading off with a spring in my step, I threat to the survival of these beautiful The day was still relatively young as we combination of both of After our success earlier that day at the soon began to hear what I thought was amphibians.  headed off again, in the hope of tracking these factors. Menalamba locality, we decided to make a calling coming from towards the stream. I detour in the hope of finding members of waited a short while, and was full of † A wild Malagasy lemon orchid (Aerangis citrata) the Torotorofotsy Wetlands population. It excitement in the anticipation of at Bakozetra. The flora on was a short drive away, and it took us potentially hearing that beautiful call. the island can be 10-15 minutes down some more dirt tracks However, I wasn’t prepared for what I spectacular.

Malagasy yellow-striped water snake (Liopholidophis lateralis) – formally regarded as a member of Thamnophis, the garter snake genus.

42 | Practical Reptile Keeping JUNE 2015 | 43 Malagasy climbing rain frogs (Plethodontohyla mihanika) are common, but rarely seen. FEATURE | MANTELLA MAN

The fall distracted me for a few (Liopholidophis lateralis). I encountered it in moments, before I finally heard that call I the most unusual place, quite near to the was so familiar with from keeping and top of the mountain, but clearly there was breeding this species. I motioned to a purpose in its presence here. These Rennie, using the word ‘mandre’, (which is snakes are recognised as batractivores Malagasy for ‘hear’) and we headed (frog-eaters), and they often tend to follow towards what we thought was the anurans (frogs and toads) up the direction of the sound. After 20 minutes of mountainside. searching, however, we discovered that it We moved on and saw many other was in fact an entirely different species of species of flora and fauna, including a frog, with an almost identical call to the spectacular blooming Malagasy lemon golden mantella, although it was to be orchid (Aerangis citrata), as well as found up in the tops of the surrounding Malagasy green burrowing frogs pandanus trees. (Scaphiophyrne marmorata) and Following this disappointment, I an anuran species I did not decided to call off the hunt to locate more recognise. golden mantellas and to move on instead After a 30 minute trek, we in the hope of of finding the yellow reached the first site of mantella at Bakozetra. One lasting image the local yellow mantella that I have though is the destruction that population. people are still causing to the Unfortunately, after completely foreign to environment. It is one thing designating searching and searching, me; it was more of a an area such as the Torotorofotsy Wetlands we simply could not find reddish-yellow colour as a protected reserve, but quite another any specimens at this site, with glorious red flash to protect it effectively from on-going although we did find marks, which is a trait deforestation and habitat destruction. other species such as carried only by wild Malagasy climbing rain frogs specimens. I carefully picked it A snake that hunts amphibians (Plethodontohyla mihanika) and up to examine more carefully, After dropping Devin back at the edge of Malagasy jumping frogs and immediately it displayed the Andasibe village, Fano and I headed (Aglyptodactylus madagascariensis). characteristic behaviour of thanatosis - towards to the locality known as Bakozetra. playing dead. This helps to protect these This location is sometimes misnamed as A difficult journey ‡ Yellow mantella frogs from predators that then ignore part of Mantadia National Park. I was still brings reward (Mantella crocea) from them, so they can escape later. The buzzing with excitement from our earlier We therefore decided to move to the the Bakozetra locality. behaviour of this individual allowed me to encounter with the pair of golden second and final breeding pond and at see the beautiful colouration on the mantellas, but I also had to accept the fact this point, it started to rain incredibly hard! ventral side of its body. that realistically, it was pretty much the Drenched, we proceeded to cross a small We found a further four specimens in end of the breeding season, so the yet increasingly fast flowing river that you that locality, and satisfied with the results chances of success again, with yellow could only get over by traversing a of the trip, we headed back before it got mantellas, were not high. slippery 9m (30ft) log with no ropes or any dark. Once we arrived at the Jeep, Fano It took approximately an hour to reach other support. Let’s just say… I discovered proceeded to take off all the leeches had the base camp, but it seemed a much that I definitely have good balance, even anchored on to him, which thrive in these shorter journey however, as exhaustion with my hiking boots on. humid surroundings. kicked in and I fell asleep at several points After 10 more minutes, we arrived in a ˆ1: A yellow mantella I checked myself and could find as we drove along. Once we started our denser area of vegetation with a pond. I playing dead. nothing… Then once out on the road, I descent down the mountainside, with the began to make a start searching through noticed the top left breast of my 2: Joshua with one of the local Indri lemurs providing a musical the leaf litter, fallen lengths of bamboo, yellow mantellas. long-sleeved top had turned a dark red. I accompaniment, thanks to their whale-like rotten logs and other debris on the forest then spotted an engorged leech crawling vocals, we came across many different floor. Then I spotted the characteristic 3: Many species of away and lifting my top, I noticed blood species, including my first sighting of a movement and flash of colour that I was Arthropoda in running down my side. But this was a Madagascar are yet to be snake. looking for – I’d finally found an example named commonly or even small price to pay to have finally been able It was a striking and delicate-looking of the endangered yellow mantella. scientifically, just like this to realise my dream of finding mantellas in Malagasy yellow-striped water snake Its colouration, however, was pill millipede. the wild. ✥

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