www.theolivepress.es the olive press - October 2 - October 15 20132323 All about theS errania de Ronda Jon Clarke follows in the footsteps of Michelle Obama... the Moors and the Romans before her WHERE TIME STANDS STILL

PRESIDENTS MEN: Obama and entourage descend into La Mina HERE are over 300 steps down to the bottom of the old siege tunnel of the Casa del Rey Moro T(House of the Moorish King) in the historic historic core of Ronda. But this didn’t deter America’s first lady Michelle Obama from witnessing first-hand how the Arabic defenders used to collect water during the regular sieges in the dark days of the 14 and 15th centuries. On a cultural break to explore the history of the Nasrid dynasty in Andalucia two years ago, she and her daughter spent a day in Ronda. Having wandered around the old town, visited the bull ring and the charming Palacio Mon- dragon, she decided to take a spot of proper exercise. By taking the steep staircase – ‘la Mina’ - down to the bottom of the gorge (which incredibly the vast majority of tourists do not do) she was really getting to ap- preciate the rich history of the mountain town. Restored in 1911, it had been

Photos by Jon Clarke Turn to Page 24 POMP: Torero Fran Rivera Ordonez, who owns the Ronda bullring, en route to Ronda’s famous Goyesca bullfight 24 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 24 Serrania de Ronda special www.theolivepress.es

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dug by Christian slaves to get water from the River Guade- levin during the reign of Ron- da’s Moorish king, Abomelik. BATH While it had been intended as a secret, it clearly didn’t stay that way, as Christians living in the region used the refrain that “in Ronda you die carrying water skins”. TIME By the time of the collapse of the Arabic rule in 1485, Ronda had been receiving foreign visi- tors for some 1500 years. Established in 9BC, it is one of Spain’s oldest towns and in Roman times was completely independent with a thriving wine industry and even with Roman Acinipo, a 20 min drive away is an incredibly haunting place to visit

its own coinage, fittingly with a tendril of grapes on its flipside. A bustling military bastion known as Arunda - which means ‘surrounded by moun- tains’ - renovate any old build- ing in the area and you are HISTORY: Classical town hall and (top right) Roman Acinipo bound to find something of interest. to vats. town of Acinipo. Fernando after a long struggle. Take the recent discovery at The discovery – among a se- A 20-minute drive from the An atmospheric place built the 12 hectare finca of Mo- ries of columns, statues and town, it is an incredibly haunt- mostly in the 13th century, a rosanto, near Arriate, just out- a 21-metre Roman swimming ing place, particularly during virtual reality film takes visi- side Ronda. pool and sauna - now means stormy weather, when you re- tors back to the days of Arabic Here, on a lovely wide open that historians can link the ally feel you are on top of the Ronda, when the Moors knew slope, archaeologists have production of wine in Ronda to world. it as Runda. found a ‘lagar’ or grape-tread- 3AD. Take a wonder around the site, In both English and Spanish ing floor and pipes through But you can certainly feel the where they keep finding new ten minutes apart it is about which wine was transported weight of the Romans just wan- buildings every year, aside from as good an introduction as you dering around the old parts of the amazing amphitheatre. are going to get to any town in the town, which is full of stun- But before you take the drive Andalucia. ning corners, arches and door- up to Acinipo you should start From here it is an easy walk up ways. any walking tour of the town into the Casco Historico, which One of its three main bridges at the oldest, most interesting is a wonderful place to while across the Tajo (or Ronda’s fa- part of Ronda down at its an- away a morning or afternoon, mous gorge) is often called the cient Arabic baths. and now until midnight on Fri- ‘Roman bridge’, although it is Said to be the best preserved ex- days and Saturdays, with the actually Moorish in origin. ample in Spain, the baths have town trying to encourage more Look west from any vantage little changed since Arabic Ron- tourists to spend the night point along the top of the Tajo da – then on the extreme West- here. and try and spot the flattened ern flank of the beleaguered You firstly head up through an out hilltop where the Romans Kingdom of Granada - fell to evocative arch to the splendid built their formidable fortified Christian monarchs Isabel and Renaissance mansion known as the Palacio del Marques de Salvatierra, which has a portal Isolation and bandits! The Casa del Rey DESPITE being only 20 miles from Marbella and with much improved road access, these days it is still a slow 45-min- Moro was once ute climb to get to the Ciudad Sonada (or City of Dreams), rented by Withnail as it was christened by celebrated Dutch poet Rilke. and I actor Paul Add to that a distinctly harsher climate (it is a good five degrees lower than the coast in winter, and five degrees McGann more in summer) and a lot of people are put off. Much of this is to do with its formidable mountain boundar- full of colonial images of Peru- ies, which for decades have served as the perfect barrier vian images. against the type of development – and thankfully people! A few paces up the hill and you - that have ravaged the nearby Costa del Sol. arrive at the aforementioned Everywhere you look are mountains and the city is flanked by Casa del Rey Moro, the house the national parks of the Sierra de las Nieves and Grazalema of which is actually an 18th as well as the formidable Serrania de Ronda to the south. century mansion, which was So cut off was the town that it became famous for its ban- once rented by Withnail and I dits in the 18th and 19th centuries, when these outlaws actor Paul McGann. frequently ruled the roost. Today their names are much re- Keep on going and you will final- vered, being used for restaurants such as Tragabuches or ly get to the famous Tajo bridge for wines such as Pasos Largos. and its breathtaking views, as well as the bull ring. It is one of Andalucia’s top visi- tor attractions and particularly worthwhile for its Goya etchings Need to know and the perfect proportions of RONDA sits 113km from Malaga city, situated in the its soft sandstone arches. Serrania de Ronda at an altitude of 739 metres above One of the oldest in the world it sea level. The town is home to a population of around was here that Michelle Obama 40,000 Rondeños. ended her tour, before fittingly taking a bite of lunch at a near- Useful Numbers: by restaurant. Tourist Offices: Paseo de Blas Infante. Tel.: 952 18 71 19 / Plaza de España. Tel.: 952 87 12 72 / C/ Espíritu Santo nº 37. Best of all, as she left for the Tel.: 952 87 07 39 winding 45-drive back to her Taxi: 952 87 40 80 hotel on the coast, the world’s Railway Station: 952 87 16 73 most powerful woman is said Bus Station: 952 87 22 60 to have told local dignatories Emergency services: 112 that she would “definitely be General Hospital: 951 06 50 00 back.”... and next time with her Fire Brigade: 952 87 19 58 husband! Ambulance: 952 18 75 41 Now that would be another fabu- Local Police: 092 / 952 87 13 69 lous step in the history of one of National Police: 091 / 952 16 12 20 Spain’s most evocative towns. Serrania de Ronda special www.theolivepress.es the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013252325

Taking a circular stroll through the old town is a great BATH way to understand Ronda’s important history, writes TIME Claire Wilson ITTING on a plateau of large, rugged cliffs Ronda was unsurprisingly one of the last Moorish cities Sto fall during the Reconquest of Spain by the Catholic monarchs. It is easy to see why it was so hard to seize during a two hour walking tour around its old town. Start your walk at the top of the Tajo gorge, which is topped with ancient houses teetering on the cliff top. Cross the famous Puente Nuevo (New Bridge), and head right, through the winding alleys, keeping close to the gorge. Be warned, though, looking over the walls at that 100 meter drop is not for the faint hearted! At Plaza Duquesa de Parcent you’ll come across the Santa Maria la Mayor church. Construc- tion began in 1485 but was not completed until the 17th Cen- tury, which explains its combina- tion of different artistic styles. The three naves include Gothic columns, which survived an earthquake in 1580 that de- stroyed part of the church. The image of the Virgin, one of the building’s most important ele- Hideout for centuries ments, is attributed to the work Across the road you will find Head down to Plaza San Fran- side the north of the gorge un- and son Cayetano and Antonio of Montañes or La Roldana, de- the stunning neoclassical town cisco and the charming Almo- til you arrive in the new town of Ordonez have been credited pending on which researcher hall, with its stunning Ronda cobar gate, a former Arabic Ronda. with luring both Ernest Heming- you choose to favour. stone arches. gate and well-fortified entrance You will finally make it back to way and Orson Welles into the to the town. the famous bridge, where just crowds of spectators, thanks From here, double back before 200 metres away is the town’s to their seductive bullfighting heading into the eastern part must-see Plaza de Toros, the technique. of the old town looking out for oldest bullring in Spain and Antonio went on to found the the fabulous Mina, where the where the rules of bullfighting famous Goyesca bullfight, now town’s Arabic defenders could were also codified over 300 one of the most expensive, find water in a time of siege. years ago. and well-attended, fights in the Further down the hill lie the Two famous bullfighting fami- country. It takes place every Arabic baths, which are consid- lies have emerged from the September, and both specta- ered one of the best preserved ring; the Romeros being the tors and fighters dress in - tra in Europe and were still in use first. Pedro Romero was the ditional clothing and the town in the 17th Century. most notable of the Romeros, is decked out in decor reminis- According to the Muslim cus- he killed more than 5000 bulls, cent of the period. tom of the time, those coming without suffering injury to him- The bullfighting museum within into the city needed to be pu- self, during the course of his the ring has sections dedicated rified, explaining their location career. to these two families, among next to the ancient Puente A second dynasty of bullfight- other memorabilia which gives Arabe. ers emerged in the 20th cen- a good insight into one of From here, head uphill along- tury, the Ordonez family. Father Spain’s bloodiest traditions.

DETAILS: Salvatierra palace, the Arabic baths and (right) Plaza Duquesa de Parcent

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C/Mariano Soubiron 5, Ronda (in front of Hotel Polo) 952 879 280 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 26 26 Serrania de Ronda special www.theolivepress.es Balcony of the Serrania

Gaucin is the true starting point of the T’S called the balcony of the views from Gaucin stretch Serrania de Ronda and it’s across not one, but two conti- Ronda mountains and has a vibrant and not hard to see why. nents. buzzing art and cultural scene, writes Perched high on a rocky out- In fact, on a clear morning, Icrop, surrounded by breath- Gibraltar lies brooding off the Paul Whitelock taking mountain scenery, the coast in the distance while across the short straits you can practically see the Moroccans getting ready for the day. It’s hard to believe that Africa is so close. Gaucin has also long been one of the hippest places to live in Andalucia. A select holiday spot for the likes of the Sainsbury fam- ily, Fatboy Slim – and allegedly once Princess Diana - it has also become a popular town for many cultured expatriates – up to 300 - who have chosen to settle here. It is this interesting and varied group of northern Europeans – many of them artists, photogra- phers and writers – that gives the town a distinctly creative and prosperous air. So organised are the dozens of artists, that they organise an- nual open days of their studios every year to show off their work. Gaucin ise only 30 minutes from the Costa del Sol, but it feels a million miles away. It may not have the attractions of the coast below, or the key There are no su- permarkets but you can get the UK Sunday news- papers

tourist sites you find in nearby Ronda, but what it does have is a raw beauty and unspoilt countryside that sucks you in. Small enough to remain un- troubled by supermarket chains (one of its best food shops Pura Vida is strictly or- ganic, local produce) you can’t even get an English newspaper. Oh! apart from the Sundays at the petrol station when a friend of the owner personally goes down to the coast to buy them. There are however, plenty of fantastic bars and restaurants and the narrow streets and shady squares are a great place to hang out in summer. Wander around and enjoy the jumble of whitewashed houses – many of them quite grand – lorded over by the historic arabic castle the Castillo del 27 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 Serrania de Ronda special www.theolivepress.es 27

ARTIST CENTRAL Photographer Jane Jewson on the creativity that has made Gaucin one of Andalucia’s true destinations for artists

T is hard to avoid the influence of art in Gaucin. All around the town are scattered a series of brightly- coloured geckos, 250 in total - part of an art project in- spired by the town’s artistic leanings. IThere are literally dozens of Josaba’s wife Maria, a for- artists living in and around mer television producer, is the town. They are inspired also adding to the mix, by by its intensity of light and launching a wedding and panoramic views over roof- events planning company tops to craggy rock forma- Un Plan Sencillo. tions caressed by oak-clad The couple have come to foothills sweeping down to Gaucin partly because of OLD WAYS: Typical street scene, the Eagle castle the valley floor and in the it’s reputation as a haven above the town and a child and mother at a fountain distance Gibraltar and Af- for artists and for the co- rica. lourful and lighter palette Aguila. wrote that he was “satisfied” The group now own associa- offered by a landscape far Then take a ride out into the with his stay in 1882. tion, Art Gaucin and open less muted by the inclem- nearby countryside, where These days the tourists tend studio weekends are pro- ent weather conditions that there are a host of excellent to be a little bit more gushing moted once or twice a year, often dull the terrain of hotels or restaurants for a meal and, while discreet, many of with the artists are con- their home ground in north- or somewhere to lay down your them come back time and time tactable via a new website ern Spain. head. again. It is not hard to see why. www.artgaucin.com. Even better, get up early and One artist Lesley Riddi- To make an arrangement to take one of the superb walks hough’s paintings are on view his work, go to www. that go in circular routes display at Molino del Santo sanchezzabaleta.com or around the town. The country- hotel in Benaojan, while her website www.unplan- side here is some of the best in Stephanie Thompson’s de- sencillo.es. the region and views are not in lightful greetings cards can short supply. be bought at Bonissim, Kar- The history of Gaucin is fasci- en O’conner’s truly delec- nating and pretty turbulent by table delicatessan in Calle anyone’s standards. Luis Arminan. Archeological remains indi- Paddy Robinson offers paint- cates a settlement here that ing classes, while Victoria dates right back to pre-historic Orr Ewing has lately joined times. forces with Ali Mudge and Subsequent ‘visits’ by, among Lucy Verney to form Painting others, Iberians, Phoenicians, And Pilates in Spain. Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Highly accomplished and the French have all contributed prize winning artist Victoria to a troubled history for the vil- heads the team which of- lage. fers a choice of residential The town’s position at the head or non residential holidays. of the stunning Genal valley One exciting new arrival is always made it subject to fre- Josaba Zabaleta Sanchez, quent attack. whose stylish home in Calle Yet these invaders, together Larga, near the 15th centu- with the ’invasion’ of north- ry church of San Sebastian ern Europeans in the last few is a charming spot. decades, have all helped to His ground floor windows weave the rich tapestry that is offer a tantalizing view into modern-day Gaucin. the artist’s working studio But these newcomers are no space and it was impos- trailblazers. Gaucin has been sible not to be moved by the watching foreign tourists – and moody industrial scenes of particuarly the British - come his large canvases. and go for centuries. Gibraltar was the key to Gaucin’s early popularity with the British. From the late 18th century, many of those whom the Empire had dispatched to the Rock chose to spend their summer breaks in the cool of the mountains and away from the claustrophobia of Gibraltar. Ronda was a favourite destina- tion, which led to British engi- neers to be commissioned to build a railway from Algeciras all the way to Ronda in the late 19th century, stopping conve- niently in Gaucin. But, even before then a famous hotel, the Hotel Nacional, was putting up tourists inside its historical four walls. Run by a popular local figure Dona Clemen, it became an institution and only finally shut half a decade ago. Previously known as the Hotel Ingles it is appropriate that the visitors book was dominated by British comments, such as one by a Royal Artillery captain, who 28 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 28 www.theolivepress.es Serrania de Ronda special An island of independence The scenic mountain village of Arriate has a very distinct feel to its ‘snobby’ near neighbour Ron- da... and now it has Andalucia’s top restaurant, according to Trip Advisor T is hard to imagine that the best restaurant on the Costa del Sol is at least one hour from the coast. IBut, according to Trip Advisor this month, El Muelle de Arriate is not only the top eaterie on the costa, but also in the whole of Andalucia. Either way, there can certainly be few visitors to Frank Rott- gering’s place that would feel cheated. His charming restaurant – a former railway shack – in Arri- ate, 10 minutes from Ronda, is about as authentically Andalu- cian as you could ask for. And that could easily be said about the village itself. A buzzing place of nearly 5000 people, Arriate offers a great quality of life, well away from the usual tourist drag. While just a short drive to Ron- da it is a million miles away in character. It wrestled control from its near neighbour over four centuries ago and its locals are fiercely independent of their pico, or ‘snobbish’, neighbours, who many Arrietenans say, lord it over the whole Serrania. NEW AND OLD: El Muelle with Easter procession The eight-and-a-half kilometre square district – which is the ing and salting meat for many poverished years of the 1960s smallest in Malaga province - centuries. and 1970s. has been staunchly left wing “The Arriatenos are wordly These days, many of them are since the death of dictator people, who have travelled the back and you can’t help but no- Franco in 1975. globe in order to work,” she tice the number of happy-look- “It is certainly far more open continues. ing pensioners hanging around and friendly than Ronda,” ex- This was certainly the case as watching the day go by. plains local businesswoman many of them had to emigrate One place Bar La Albarra is so Carmeli Gamarro, whose fam- to Switzerland, France and Ger- famous for these old boys that ily firm Melgar have been - cur many to work in the tough em- one Dutch photographer put together an exhibition based entirely around its clientelle. The queue at Pedro Mon- tesino’s greengrocer usually snakes around the shop and is as good a snapshot of life in this Andalucian village as I can possibly conjure up. It is here that his faithful cus- tomers patiently wait their turn, catching up on gossip and baracking Pedro, who is never short of a bit of banter himself. A hard-working man, he is up with the lark to locate his won- derful selection of produce and spends much of his afternoon delivering it around the nearby area. “And as long as the locals keep supporting our local shops and demanding good quality goods then I will continue finding them,” he says. Pedro is typical of the Arriate stock. A staunch supporter of old fashioned village life, he spends most weekends enjoy- ing the local countryside, when not looking after his ageing parents. A keen hiker, he is forever in training for this or that, the highlight of his year being the annual 101km walk organised by nearby Ronda’s famous For- eign Legion. ROMERIA: Arriate style “It is the best thing about living in a country village like this,” he explains. www.theolivepress.es the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 2929 Serrania de Ronda special An island of independence TRADITION: Easter parade and (right) an island of nature

Spanish cultural music. Still standing today, with its our town’s key history,” says A capacity for music is all too main screen and stage - not Roberto. “I grew up watching obvious with a visit to the in- to mention 350 original wood Cinema Paradiso and always credible Los Caireles bar on and leather seats bought from dreamt of one day opening the high street. ‘Cine Paris’ in Malaga in the the cinema up again. One day There are few surprises in the 1950s - best of all are the stun- we hope to be able to find the Serrania de Ronda as pleasant ning brightly-coloured hydraulic funding to do that.” as walking through the anony- tiles that line the entrance. For the time being, they are mous colourful frosted glass “Our father was a real film fa- busy organising a new edition doors on a concert night in win- natasist,” says Monolo. “This of the Fiesta en el Aire, for Oc- ter, when it will be full of hun- was one of the most popular tober which was modelled on dreds of music fans of all ages, cinemas in the Serrania. an idea that came from their colours and styles. “People came for miles around father in the 1950s. Much to do with the brothers despite the movies being heav- Taking place each October, the Roberto and Monolo Rivera, ily censored by the local priest festival is an ‘open air’ celebra- who have a popular drumming and mayor, who would watch tion of the town’s artists, mu- troop Arriadh Cumcum da, the the film first demanding cuts sicians ‘and creativity in gen- surprise is more the better, if all over the place.” eral,’ explains Roberto, who is It is little surprise that Arriate to carry the floats (or tronos) of open door and are happy to you can persuade them to take Running until 1988, when due himself a photographer. – after Ronda – is one of the Jesus and Mary. give you what they have.” you out back. to dwindling audiences part of Weather permitting, the three only inland Malaga towns to “It has always seemed a real Another curious trait about Arri- If so, you will soon realise that it had to be converted into a day bash will see the whole continue to grow dramatically contradiction to me,” says Jose ate is its wealth of musical tal- the bar you are standing in is flamenco venue, the brothers town coming out onto the over the last decade. Antonio Coca, a local fitness ent. There are two town bands, just one small corner of what have kept it intact despite nu- streets for a range of concerts, Much of this must be down to instructor and masseur, who a drumming group and ‘every- was once – since the 1940s - merous offers from developers food and general fun. the town’s reputation for being grew up in the town. “The pro- one plays one instrument or Arriate’s Cine Ideal. And what a to turn it into flats. It is, after all, what Arriate is a party town. cessions are taken very seri- another,’ it is claimed. gem it is. “This is our legacy and part of about. Despite being ruled by the IU ously and they are very moving, It is a tradition that can be (or Communist party) for well but it is a simple fact that most traced back even before the or- over a decade (the socialist of those involved hardly ever go igins of the town, when a mythi- PSOE party finally took over in to church and so it is really just cal group of country musicians May), there is more interest in down to the tradition.” roamed the area playing music having fun than the teachings Aside from the 400 years of in the dead of night. of Chairman Mao. tradition that brings thousands Known as La Aurora de Arri- This might perhaps explain, of visitors to see the Herman- ate, the group of musicians still why – despite its apparent hard dad del Santisimo Cristo de la keep up the tradition playing in left leanings - the town has Sangre y del Santo Entierro de the dead of night on Sunday some of the best known Easter Cristo at Easter, there are other morning between the hours of parades in Andalucia. festivals such as the Romeria, 4am and 6am. Highly competitive and reach- the Dia de la Vieja, and the Fi- With origins from Arabic times ing fever pitch around Good esta en el Aire, which happens in the 13th century, the cop- Friday, practically every family in a fortnight. las, or local songs, have been has a member in one parade “It is this sort of thing that really passed down from generation or another. makes the Arriate people stand to generation and became fa- Indeed, such is the clamour to out,” explains mayor Melchor mous when in 1973 the British be involved, the brotherhoods Conde. “They are above all very National Geographic Society even hold lotteries for the right generous; and always have an recorded them for an album on 30 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 30 www.theolivepress.es Serrania de Ronda special

Ronda is now one of the key outward bounds hubs in Andalucia... but certain dark forces have been holdng it back

OMPLETELY encircled by mountains Ronda is fast becoming a top destination for hiking, GREAT Ccycling and mountain excur- sions. It is good news for the town as there is a huge boom in the number of people coming to Spain for activity and green OUTDOORS tourism. Tourism experts estimate that around 15% of the 60-plus mil- lion people who visited Spain in 2008 spent € 4.26billion on eco-tourism. And the numbers are rising. Rarely a weekend goes past when Ronda does not have HIKING: A walk towards Ronda from Grazalema some sort of cycle, walking or running event taking place and mous 101-km race that snakes plete the race. the choices.” there are numerous clubs and around the nearby hills. If this all sounds a bit too With Staleman’s help, excur- associations. A true feat of grit and deter- stressful you might try some sions head out to the neighbor- In May, traditionally, the local mination, some 7000-odd of the gentler guided cycling ing towns like Arriate, Setenil, army regiment ‘La Legion’ (or cyclists, walkers and runners routes offered by local compa- Ronda de la Vieja, El Gastor Foreign Legion) puts on its infa- have up to 24 hours to com- ny Cycle Ronda. and Grazalema. According to its boss Dutch- You can hire bikes at his shop, man Ferry Staleman: “Ronda is or nearby at the shop of former a lovely city, but the real beauty Tour de France pro Jesus Ro- of Ronda is outside town. I am sado. Pilates and painting sometimes overwhelmed by If walking, is more your thing,

CLASS: At Victoria’s house

ainting and Pilates in taurant in Gaucin. Spain was born when Drawing on Spanish and Mo- three friends from roccan influences she creates Gaucin came up with the seasonal menus that reflect Pidea of pooling their talents to her passion for food and local create an active and creative produce. Her raw food is deli- holiday experience. cious and healthy. Victoria, Ali and Lucy have de- Alison Mudge started teaching vised several all inclusive holiday yoga 12 years ago and trained packages designed to free your as a pilates instructor three mind and invigorate your body. years ago. Her classes are You can learn to paint with oils, tough but full of fun and acces- develop your fitness routine, or sible to all. detox with raw food, with some For more info call 952151465 time to relax by the infinity pool or 699822454 and visit www. and eat fantastic meals. paintingpilatesspain.com EVOCATIVE: The Molino Canto walk near Arriate They launched this April to great reviews and all of their guests have already booked for next year. There is also the option to get a group of friends and family together and organise a tailor -made holiday, with activities on offer to keep everyone hap- py, like horse riding, tennis, hik- ing or dirt bike riding. Victoria is a painter whose bo- hemian side is expressed not just by her landscapes but by her beautiful house on the hill, with views that stretch all the way to Africa via Gibraltar. The painting course takes place at her studio, where there is plenty of inspiration for even the most inexperi- enced painter. She trained at The City and Guilds of London Art School and has shown her work both here in Spain and London. Lucy’s delicious cooking fuels the holidays. She has been a professional cook for 20 years and formerly ran La Fuente res- www.theolivepress.es 31 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 31 Serrania de Ronda special

FACTFILE: THE PICKS OF THE NEARBY SERRANIA ONDA is surrounded by two national parks, the Sierra de las Nieves to the East and the Sierra de Grazalema to the West. Both are full of wonderful walks and Rpretty towns. Here are a few suggestions for excursions out of Ronda. 1 3 GREAT then there are a series of excel- lent sign-marked walks head- ing off from the town in all di- rections. OUTDOORS A number head through the fa- mous Tajo gorge, while others head off to ‘secret’ spots, such RONDA LA VIEJA (ACINIPO) as the incredible fan-shaped 1 A 15-minute drive from Ronda at the top cave, Cueva de Abanico, in a of one of the highest hills in the area the stunning nearby valley. Roman’s built their ancient city. It still has The famous GR-7, or ‘gran much evidence of their skills with a large recorido’, which heads from part of its amphitheatre intact and a lot GRAZALEMA AND ZAHARA Tarifa to Athens, also goes more to look at, not to mention the views. 3 Grazalema and Zahara are two of the through the town, but it has The visitor centre is only open for the morn- most evocative towns around Ronda. Both been somewhat controversially ing, but one can always climb up to the am- set in spectacular scenery and with some cut off by developers a few phitheatre out of hours. lovely sites, Zahara has a towering castle miles north of Ronda to build a above it and a great restaurant Al Lago, golf course. while Grazalema (a beautifully conserved It was this very development, gem) was once the centre of the wool known as Los Merinos, that led industry and you can still buy delightful to an almighty battle with local rugs and bedspreads. ecologists and nature lovers early this decade. 4 Interestingly, its opponents included one Alastair Boyd – aka Lord Kilmarnock – who was sometimes credited with planting the seed for Ronda’s outdoor renaissance. Moving to the area in the 50s to indulge his passion of horse riding and to write, Boyd wrote two books about his travels through the nearby sierras. “Every man should have his own sierra,” Boyd wrote in his first book, The Road from Ron- da, in 1967.

Conservation Curiously, it was his horseback 2 travels that would later became a catalyst for Spanish conser- vationists in the late 90s. When real estate developers SETENIL DE LAS BODEGAS threatened to over-run the 2 Only 20 minutes drive away, the historic mountain area around Ronda Roman town of Setenil is a real eye opener BENAOJAN AND MONTAJAQUE in the late 90s and early 00s, and amazing for photography. Nestled in 4 If it is wonderful mountain scenery you Boyd, a retired member of the the rolling landscape north of Ronda, it are after and villages famous for their ban- English House of Lords, argued was built on a series of caves, which served dits then this pair are worth a visit. Monta- for development restraint and to keep the wines of the Romans cool in jaque has a cave with the oldest cave paint- environment protection. summer, hence its name. It is best to leave ings in Spain, while Benaojan is the centre While the golf course scheme your car outside the town, wander up to of the ham and sausage industry. There is is still in the balance – officially the old fortress before heading down to a fabulous walk from Benaojan Estacion illegal due to a lack of water - the famous overhanging cave for a fine ta- down the river to Jimera de Liber, from the dispute weakened Boyd’s pas lunch. Next door are a couple of shops where you can get the train back. At each health and he died at 81 in selling local olive oil-based shampoos and end is a great lunch spot, with Quercus and March 2009. soaps. Molino del Santo. For information on walks head to the tourist offices in town, or try and get hold of a number of good local books, such as that of Guy Hunter Watts, that give detailed walking info. Get into the saddle

WHILE I have over 20 years experience with horses, I have learnt a lot from the local riders. Coming from a traditional horsemanship background I like to use my knowledge and mix it with natural horsemanship. Here, in the Genal Valley, I have seen foals conceived, born, ‘baby-sat’, and weened... all without any human help and it is great to learn so much. The horses at Time and Space live freely, and naturally in a herd of over 30. There are young and old, all personalities, suited to all riding abilities and age of rider, and all barefoot. We are surrounded by amazing views and wildlife whether you choose to have a session in the school, or take a trail ride into the mountains or along the river, near our base in Bena- dalid. Apart from trail riding, from one hour to one week we hold a pony club every Saturday for children to learn all aspects of horsemanship and horse care. We also hold special events such as picnic rides for both children and parents (or parents can join us in the car!); gymkanah (obstacle course on horse back); and native American fun days, where we decorate the horses with feathers and paint, and ride bare back! Visit www.time-and-space-horse-riding.com for more info 3232 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 www.theolivepress.es Serrania de Ronda special Journey to the top of the world Once of the most stunning ways to get to Ronda is via the celebrated scenic route via Casares and Gaucin, writes Claire Wilson HERE are a few ways to get to Ronda, one inland from Malaga, via the ROMAN: The Hediona Guadalhorce Valley, and baths in Casares theT main one via the infamous San Pedro road, some 45 min- Breathtaking on approach: originally a Roman stronghold utes of curves from the coast. it’s a layered expanse of tradi- which was subsequently ex- One fantastic alternative is to tionally Moorish whitewashed panded by the Arabs. take your time and make an buildings hug the cliff, some of From here, visitors will be adventure out of the journey, which look precariously high. treated to spectacular views of taking a slower, far less busy I challenge you not to pull up Gibraltar and, on a clear day, scenic route via Casares and and take a photograph as it Morocco. Gaucin, which allows for doz- comes into sight! Flamenco festivals, art exhibi- ens of photo opportunities and Casares is hilly, and it is easy tions and other cultural events many stops for lunch or coffee. to lose yourself in its back al- are a staple of Gaucin life, while Your turn off is Estepona, leys and footpaths as you look bird watchers will be thrilled to where you head nine kilome- in awe at the Moorish architec- hear the village is circled by tres inland to Casares. ture. flocks of eagles and kestrels, Famous for the la Hediona spa, Your next stop is wonderful and various migrating birds de- pure waters from which sup- Gaucin. Sitting 600 meters pending on the season. posedly cured Julius Caesar above sea level, this pretty Climbing further into the moun- of a liver complaint, the village town is the start of the Serrania tains you traverse the Genal What a is built around a 12th century de Ronda proper. Valley to your south and the castle which was founded by Dominated by the Castillo del Guadiaro Valley to your north. the occupying Moors. Aguila (Eagles Castle), it was This charming route is littered with pretty villages that date back to Arabic times and most chestnut! ARABIC: have just a few hundred souls Fortress inhabiting them. JON CLARKE takes a stroll – and quite a at Great lunch stops include Mo- few lunches - around one of Andalucia’s Benadalid lienda in Benalauria, or a short detour into Montejaque and best kept secrets Benaojan, two former bandit villages, where you will find the excellent Molino del Santo ho- N weekends Jesus and Rosa’s charming res- restau- tel and restaurant. taurant Casa Grande in Alpandeire fills up with rants, or It would also be a great place to Oa healthy mix of foodies and walkers eager to some- stay and nearby you have vari- try its celebrated local, organic dishes. times ous caves to visit and some of The rest of the time you can hear a pin drop in the packing the best walks in Andalucia. village, which boasts just 300 hardy souls, a couple a picnic. All in all, the journey can take of donkeys and a doctor (well, once a week at least). A par- STUNNING: The Antigua Real Fabrica anything from two hours to two But this is not your average whitewashed Andalucian ticularly nice time to visit is the late autumn when the days. But it really is a delight, village. For starters, it is almost square in shape, it leaves of the valley’s predominantly chestnut (or cas- and no surprises a few years has almost no expatriates and it counts on a church tano) trees start turning a bright, burning red. ago was dubbed officially a that is almost the size of a ‘cathedral’. And, that is Earlier in September it is fun to take a walk and pick ‘route of specific scenery’. Hap- what the locals call it. the numerous chestnuts that line the paths, before py travels! This is all down to one rather important Andalucian heading home to toast them on an open fire. character. For it was here in the 1866 that a monk “Chestnuts are the only stable business here,” contin- Fray Leopoldo was born in the town. ues Beach. “Everybody is out in September and every A pious man, he is credited with a number of mira- family has their trees.” cles and in 1961 the Vatican started the process of In total, there are four different varieties of chestnut beautifying him, he now he has been honoured with trees, some of them up to 500 years old. saint status, his disciples – mostly of the Capucin or- Each local village picks them and sells them to a lo- der – are often found visiting the village. cal cooperative that markets them around Spain and Either way, is a charming spot, surrounded by breath- abroad. taking countryside with some of the best walks in The only other industry in the valley involves the pro- Andalucia. duction of artisan products, such as baskets, cork Indeed there are few region’s as stools and blinds. evocative and unspoiled as the The latter – along with baskets and mats – Genal Valley, where Alpandeire are usually woven out of a plant, known as perches, surrounded by oak and The area is said esparto, which is found on the high peaks, chestnut trees. known as the ‘riscos’ above the valley. Yet, as the crow flies, it is only to have one of Making beautiful blinds, which can be seen ten miles from the concrete rib- Europe’s clean- on many traditional houses in Ronda, and bon of the Costa del Sol... and est rivers - the further afield in Sevilla, they are usually 99.9 per cent of the holiday made to order and are not cheap. makers will not have heard of Genal Without a doubt, the Genal Valley’s main fu- the little-visited area. ture will be tourism, with plans to open up And more’s the shame, be- the area with better roads and infrastructure. cause the expansive valley that Said to have one of Europe’s cleanest rivers spreads over 42,000 hectares between the coast – the Genal – the area also boasts one of the last few and Ronda, is a paradise for walkers, wildlife lovers remaining Mediterranean Oak forests. and foodies. There are plenty of places to swim in the river, one of Part of the Serrania de Ronda, this lovely collection the best down below Juzcar, where just across the river of villages – 16 in total – are a joy to visit, each boast- you will find one of those remarkable little chestnuts ing their own local ventas and with a number of com- that makes your whole journey worthwhile. fortable and decent hotels. For near this tiny village – now most famous for its “The fact that it is completely undiscovered makes Smurfs (see panel top right)- lies a former tin factory, it the perfect paradise for me,” says Diana Beach, once with a royal seal, that now makes wonderful olive owner of Hotel Los Castanos, in nearby Cartijima. oil and is soon to produce its own wine. “Surrounded by a vast landscape of chestnut forests In the process of being reformed by charming Catalan and craggy peaks, it is a great place to escape the Enrique it nestles in a secret valley and is peace per- rat race.” sonified. For many years I have enjoyed heading out to the val- Best of all, it is only 45 minutes to Marbella, which is ley for strolls, normally taking in one of the many good all the more remarkable. www.theolivepress.es the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 33 Serrania de Ronda special FEELING BLUE? 33 JUZCAR WILL CHEER YOU UP OOKING for something completely dif- ferent? Well Juzcar certainly offers an alternative look to the ubiquitous pueb- lo blanco. LFor this tiny village is painted entirely blue... and in, what is bound to be a hit with anyone Journey to the top of the world under the age of 10, the village was chosen by Sony Pictures to promote the two Smurfs film, in 2011 and 2013. Juzcar beat competition from 200 other vil- lages because it looked most like the fictional village where the Smurfs live. Two years on and it has received over 200,000 visitors – that is more than 350 a day. Not bad for a village of just 250 residents – and no surprise then that locals voted to keep it blue. Guided tours (Smurf-themed, naturally) are available all year round.

What to buy – VISTA: esparto bags View of the Genal ONE thing to look out for in the Genal Valley are Valley, baskets woven out of esparto grass that grows Frey in the area. Once the main source of income for Leopoldo many families in the Sierra de las Nieves, sadly (top) esparto products are now a dying trade. and a In Igualeja however you can visit a womens’ co- Stone operative that aims to keep the tradition alive as Age circle well as forming jobs for locals. (right)

restau- rants, or some- times packing a picnic. A par- STUNNING: The Antigua Real Fabrica ticularly nice time to visit is the late autumn when the leaves of the valley’s predominantly chestnut (or cas- tano) trees start turning a bright, burning red. Earlier in September it is fun to take a walk and pick the numerous chestnuts that line the paths, before heading home to toast them on an open fire. “Chestnuts are the only stable business here,” contin- ues Beach. “Everybody is out in September and every family has their trees.” In total, there are four different varieties of chestnut trees, some of them up to 500 years old. Each local village picks them and sells them to a lo- cal cooperative that markets them around Spain and abroad. The only other industry in the valley involves the pro- duction of artisan products, such as baskets, cork stools and blinds. The latter – along with baskets and mats – are usually woven out of a plant, known as esparto, which is found on the high peaks, known as the ‘riscos’ above the valley. Making beautiful blinds, which can be seen on many traditional houses in Ronda, and further afield in Sevilla, they are usually made to order and are not cheap. Without a doubt, the Genal Valley’s main fu- ture will be tourism, with plans to open up the area with better roads and infrastructure. Said to have one of Europe’s cleanest rivers – the Genal – the area also boasts one of the last few remaining Mediterranean Oak forests. There are plenty of places to swim in the river, one of the best down below Juzcar, where just across the river you will find one of those remarkable little chestnuts that makes your whole journey worthwhile. For near this tiny village – now most famous for its Smurfs (see panel top right)- lies a former tin factory, once with a royal seal, that now makes wonderful olive oil and is soon to produce its own wine. In the process of being reformed by charming Catalan Enrique it nestles in a secret valley and is peace per- sonified. Best of all, it is only 45 minutes to Marbella, which is all the more remarkable. 3434 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 www.theolivepress.es Serrania de Ronda special

At Algaba you can find out what ANT to get an idea about how our forefathers cre- to the present day,” explains what life was like ated fire, ground their bread, as owner Juan Terroba. Andalucia was like 5000 years in Andalucia 5,000 well as decorated their homes. Algaba’s work also includes ago, discovers Eloise Horsfield years ago? You can even find out what they research and teachings on WWell, at the Algaba education did with their dead. the geology and ornithology centre just outside Ronda, you “We teach people about ancient of the area, as well as acting have the perfect opportunity. Mediterranean ecosystems as a rare breeds centre for Through its hauntingly realis- because this land has been oc- endangered cows. tic prehistoric village you learn cupied from prehistoric times These include the Spanish Pajuna – of which there are just 500 left (pictured far VISIONARY: left)– as well as the Andalu- Juan Terroba cian Cardena, which in the early 90s had been reduced to just seven individuals. Thanks to the work of organ- isations like Algaba, there are now around 200 Cardenas. Guests and groups can now come and stay at the centre’s Keeping restored 250-year-old finca. “It is certainly a place where people can come and get away from it all”. prehistory alive www.algabaderonda.com

LIFETIME living in Ji- mena de la Frontera would do wonders for your health. AFor most, jaunts across the his- toric town are likely to involve a The good life challenging ascent. All roads lead to Rome but, You’ll need stamina to live in Jimena de la Frontera...a town in the case of Jimena, these sloping streets wind up to the with a big heart, writes Andy Pearce 13th Century Moorish castle walk to the all-seeing medieval town has been home sporadi- post. that continues to watch over stronghold is well worth the ef- the cobbled lanes and lov- cally to the Iberians, Phoeni- And it is this healthy relation- fort as panoramic vistas greet cians and Carthaginians, as ship that immediately becomes ingly maintained whitewashed the eye once the steep hillside homes. well as the Romans. apparent from just a few hours is conquered. These days, however, such strolling the streets of Jimena. The castle – a constant re- Once an important vantage minder of Jimena’s intrigu- combat and instability is fortu- A visit to just one of the many point for the Moorish armies, nately consigned to the history inviting bars and authentic res- ing past – rises up above the the castle witnessed many town, keeping a wary eye on books as Spaniards and expa- taurants – which serve as the battles as Christian armies laid triates of varied nationalities perfect refuelling stations once the looming mountain peaks siege in numerous blood-thirsty of the surrounding Serrania de contribute in equal measure a winding road has been nego- attempts to claim the towering to the vibrant social scene of tiated – will reveal the special Ronda. site as their own. And the short, but challenging, what, at first glance, appears bond that the townsfolk have Even before such struggles the to be a sleepy Andalucian out- successfully nurtured over re- cent years. This mix of old and new, work- HEALTHY LIVING: Jimona de la Fontera ing together in perfect tan- dem, is one of Jimena’s great “I came back 20 years later and from both the north and south- hallmarks, the vast majority of I suddenly saw the first signs of ern ends of town. its buildings – in many cases change. For instance, a medi- Bristling with cork oaks, called dating back centuries – still cal centre had appeared. alcornocales, this natural park ooze their original charm after “What is so special is that it is is home to an incredible array carefully-managed restoration still a small town with a rural of birds and insects. projects. feel to it, but it has significantly The potential treks include the Despite having changed in size opened up over the years and ‘Walk of the Old Mill’ and the and amenities considerably, welcomed its ever-growing ex- ‘Walk of the Wolf and the Pigs’, Jimena remains worlds apart patriate population without los- both begin in Jimena but soon from the built-up coastal re- ing its original identity.” take their followers on chal- sorts that lie just 25 minutes Glowing praise is no stranger to lenging circuits that are brim- away by car. Jimena. ming with incredible views. The development of the town In fact, it was so highly regard- Not only is Jimena town home has been witnessed by resi- ed by Spanish King Alfonso XII to some challenging daily treks dent of 20 years Alberto Bull- that he declared in 1879 that it as people negotiate the pictur- rich, who first visited Jimena a should be officially recognised esque cobbled streets as part mere 40 years ago. as a town, rather than a village. of their daily routine, but the “Jimena used to be an ex- Would-be walkers and intrepid surrounding countryside offers tremely quiet but amazingly explorers are blessed with the even more testing excursions. beautiful mountain town,” ex- Parque Natural de los Alcor- The town really does work won- plains Bullrich. nocales, which stretches away ders for your health! JIMENA FACTFILE

The town was officially de- clared of Historical and Artis- tic importance in 1983. With a present population of just over 10,000 (some 1,000 of whom are foreign residents, many of them British), its narrow, cobbled streets and white-washed, tile-roofed An- dalucian houses retain a vil- lage ambience. www.theolivepress.es the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 35 Serrania de Ronda special 36 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 24 24 www.theolivepress.es the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 37 Serraniawww.theolivepress.es de Ronda special 25 37

T is being described as a verted into a private home with ‘unique opportunity’ to buy two self-contained holiday flats, Learning a slice of Andalucian history. with two swimming pools. And it is hard to argue that Sitting on the edge of the Alcor- the Buy a Ithe amazing 1778 building in nocales Park, and close to the Jimena de la Frontera does not Serrania de Ronda this really is fit into this category. a superb deal a €525,000, but lingua Called appropriately the ‘bomb due to a need to sell fast the bomb factory factory’, it was built by the owners would listen to offers of OOKING for an inspira- Duke of Medina Sidonia to just under €400,000 tional place to brush up manufacture cannonballs. Being sold through Andalucia on your Spanish? Or re- Essentially a blast furnace, Country Houses, it is certainly ally crack the language? it produced 200 tons of one to visit. Rondalingua is a new lan- iron annually and it made Said boss Karen Banham: L 84,000 cannonballs during “When clients come to us look- guage centre, whose objec- the Great Siege of Gibraltar ing for property in Andalucia, tive is to help students learn between 1779 to 1783. we often heare they are looking languages in a fun, practical It was later used to make for something with an income. and effective way. machinery and even a “Couples in their mid 50’s are Whatever level you have, bridge at El Puerto de Santa rarely ready to retire and this is the teachers will take you Maria. the perfect new challenge.” through the labyrinth that is Chosen for its location next And for this price it is a real Spanish grammar to come to the River Hozgarganta ‘bomba’ (or bargain) as they out the other side with the and protected by Jimena say in Spanish. skills needed to truly enjoy castle it was the perfect site Contact Karen at sales@anda- your experience of visiting or EXPLOSIVE OFFER : Jimena’s bomb factory for a bomb factory. lucia-country-houses.com for living in Spain. Today though it has been con- more information. The owners, Charlotte Wilmot and Jaime Lopez, endeavour to make their students’ expe- There are some riences enjoyable. And their team offers a wealth of expe- incredible deals to be rience in teaching. had in the Serrania de With small groups, the class- Ronda es are practical and person- alised and Rondalingua now T is little surprise that the High Life! offers classes for native Eng- Ronda area has become one lish/bilingual children, with of Andalucia’s most popular of 40,000 plus people and In Casares you will be a qualified and experienced places to visit by those-in- contains most of the modern well catered for by Os- teacher. Ithe-know. amenities. car and Anita at Villas & The classes are designed to And equally no surprise that a “It is a real bonus having a Fincas, who have been encourage the children to large number of foreigners end proper hospital, with a new one covering the Serrania – develop their literacy skills; up buying in the area, many actually being built on the edge and further afield – for from Jolly Phonics for the working in tourism, while oth- of town,” adds Ortiz. well over a decade. BARGAIN: Two Gaucin bargains, left, 4-bed house, €575,000 (CB Properties) little ones to creative writing ers have simply retired to enjoy There are certainly many at- Meanwhile in Gaucin, and project work for the older the good mix of countryside tractive properties both in the where there are some above, 2-bed house €230,000 (Gaucin and attractive local towns and town and in nearby Gaucin, the fabulous homes and properties) ones. villages. Genal Valley or Jimena. properties, make sure There is certainly a wonder- Closer by, one of the best bar- to check out Gaucin Proper- ful range of properties from gains, is the stunning three- ties, run by Dianne Shotton, or country fincas to flats and from bedroom Poet’s Cottage in the CB Properties, also in the town. village homes to grand town- heart of the buzzing village In Jimena, a stunning hilltop houses. Arriate, just 10 minutes from town, topped with a castle, “Whatever, if you enjoy a qui- Ronda. (See advert) around 1,000 expats have set eter life away from the rat-race, This stunningly converted up their home. you like spectacular scenery home has dropped in price by Local agent Andalucia Country and unspoilt mountain towns 40% to just €130,000 for an Houses offers an interesting then the Serrania is for you,” immediate sale. selection of village houses, says agent Irene Ortiz, from Renovated to the highest stan- from period properties to re- Serrania Services. dards with sustainability in formed houses with pools and “It is cheaper than on the coast mind, the stone built property gardens. and there is a huge variety of counts its own leafy garden “We also have some true gems activities available, including with a splash pool, as well as waiting for the right owner to bird-watching, ballooning and a massive vine-covered roof come along and bring them horse-riding.” terrace with views for miles back to life!” says owner Karen The capital Ronda is a big town around. Banham. 38 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 38 www.theolivepress.es Serrania de Ronda special Mountain of You are spoilt for choice with a raft of romantic and hip places repose to stay around the Serrania PPROPRIATELY dubbed the ‘City of Embrujo, run by friendly Esther from Valladolid. Dreams’ by Dutch poet Rilke there are It has a basement spa and is a minute walk from plenty of excellent places to stay in the around a dozen tapas bars. Ronda area. Meanwhile Poet’s Cottage is a charming village AIn the heart of the city you are spoilt for choice, house, with three bedrooms that can be rented with La Colegiata hard to beat on value and loca- from just 200 euros for the weekend. tion. Sited in the most atmospheric square in the Finally, if you are looking for real luxury, then plan old town, you can really feel the weight of history to stay a long weekend in the amazing Alcanta- and the charming Belgium-run hotel has been rilla estate, which sits in two hectares of amazing nicely renovated and its rooms are comfortable. gardens with stunning views. In the countryside nearby are some of Andalu- An authentic farmhouse in Ronda’s Llano de la cia’s most hip hotels. Cruz valley, it dates back to Moorish (and even These include stylish Fuente de la Higuera, possibly Roman) times, and has seven bedrooms where British Prime Minister David Cameron but can be split into two parts. has stayed, and Molino del Arco, which is a joy For campers, by far your best option is Camping to visit, even if just for its amazing landscaped Sur, a short walk into Ronda, with its own shop gardens. and restaurant, while a new complex Cedro Alto, The family home of local landowner and Anglo- near Montejaque, offers comfortable ‘casitas’ phile Juan Clavero, who has a splendid eye for and apartments at great prices. detail, it sits in a privileged position in the nearby If you fancy staying in a complete rural idyll, then Sierra de Salinas. a weekend at Los Castanos in Cartojima will blow You might also want to consider Molino del Pu- you away. This authentic hostel comes top of Trip ente, run by friendly English couple Ian and Advisor and it is not hard to see why. Elaine Love, who also have one of the area’s best A little further away in Jimena you will find two restaurants. splendid places to stay. A bit further away in Benaojan you must certainly If complete comfort is what you’re really after, consider incredible Molino del Santo, a classic look no further than the sumptuous Hostel Anon rural retreat, which has been serving the area for – a romantic getaway that always comes highly nearly three decades. recommended. Run by English couple Pauline and Andy, the ho- Last, but certainly not least, if you are looking tel – number two in Andalucia, according to Trip for something even more rural then head to La Advisor - has the knack of keeping guests happy Vina de Linan, a luxury B&B sitting in wonderful with just the right mix of comfort, good food and surroundings in the countryside perfectly located character. near the Hozgarganta river. Best of all, it counts on one of the best restau- rants in Andalucia, run by its fantastic resident chef Gor- don Brown. Closer to Ronda, in the charming vil- lage of Arriate, you will find a number of great places to stay. The first, Hotel Arri- adh, has been pro- viding weary travel- lers with lodgings with the most amaz- ing views imagin- able. Run by friendly Pe- ruvian Eduardo, you will feel like you are staying in some- one’s home. Also in the village is the excellent Hotel AUTHENTIC: Molino del Arco www.theolivepress.es 39 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 39 Serrania de Ronda special

CHARACTER : Eduardo from Arriadh Hotel (left), Alcantarilla (above) and Diana at Los Castanos and Molino del Puente

PARADISE: The grounds at Molino del Santo 40 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 2013 40 Serrania de Ronda special www.theolivepress.es

ONDA is, without a doubt, my favourite place to eat Rin Andalucia. The town and nearby region offers an incredible range in Best in both creativity and value and it is no surprise that nearly a dozen of the restaurants listed on the Olive Press’ fast-growing website Dining Secrets of An- dalucia are in the Serrania de Andalucia Ronda. From the creativity of Tragata- Dining Secrets of Andalucia editor pas and Casa Santa Pola, to rural idylls Molino del Santo Jon Clarke on why the Serrania de and Al Lago, there is so much on offer. Ronda area has a dozen of the best Add in the soulful, unpreten- restaurants in Andalucia tious Almocobar, historic Pedro Romero and the know-how of Pablo Piek at La Fuente and restaurant, according to Trip there is a particularly good you have a potent mix. Advisor, in El Muelle, in Arriate. range of places to eat. And now, of course, you have This charming converted rail- In particular in Calle Nue- supposedly Andalucia’s best way storeroom is well worth va you will find a series a journey alone, as many of excellent places, cheek by people have been doing jowl and vying for your custom. lection of old photos over recent months all the The best include the charming of Ronda. way from Estepona and Casa Quino, a family-run joint, Next door, the pair also have Marbella. a new place Nueva 13 more Run by talented Dutchman geared towards tapas and Frank Rottgering, it has Ronda has an wines and with a very different truly come of age after just style. one year, offering a superb incredible range On a more imaginative front mix of local and interna- of creativity and you must try evocative Tragata- tional dishes. pas, run by former Michelin- All home cooked by a team good value res- starred chef Benito Gomez, led by the impressive Isa taurants who trained at El Bulli among from nearby Alcala del other notable spots. Valle, there are not many Here, you can eat plenty of places in Andalucia where creative dishes made from you eat blinis with foie gras where its big boss Joaquin seasonal produce, including and a gazpacho made out does a great job in the kitchen, mushrooms and game. He of cherries. Well now you producing a range of classic also purveys a fantastic sushi can have both. local dishes. A keen photogra- of tuna, with soya and wasabi. CHARM: Pedro Romero and Up in the heart of Ronda pher, he also has the best col- Most exciting of all, is that one (top) Frank at EL Muelle A wealth of ingredients The Serrania de Ronda has one of the richest diversities of food in Spain, writes El Bulli-trained chef Maria Terol (right)

HE traditional gastronomy of the Serrania de Ronda Another fantastic is very much entwined with its local ecosystems, local ingredient is cultures and weather. goats cheese that It is also heavily influenced by the fact that its local come from its in- populationT was for centuries very isolated from the rest digenous race of the country by nature of its roads and communications. of cabra payoya As a result its many towns and villages developed a sub- goats. sistence model of agriculture, which involved growing the Then there is the vast majority of its food in the area. fantastic arbe- And because of its climate (it is one of the wettest places quina olive oil, ex- in Spain due to its location by the Sierra de Grazalema) traordinary ham and geography it has been blessed with an extraordinary products, much range of high quality products, not found elsewhere. of it centering on As a result, there are more than 180 different species of Benaojan, as well mushrooms, which, when in season in autumn, in particu- as honey, wild veg- lar, are used in a variety of dishes. etables, such as Níscalos, yemas, chantarella, setas de cardo, colmenillas, asparagus, and wine. boletos, they all have their own names, and they are mainly And don’t forget the walnuts (some being used for li- collected and offered to the many bars and restaurants. quor, glace and conserves) and the famous chestnuts that come from the Genal Valley. Through the winter you will be frequently offered all sorts of game from wild boar to venison and from mountain goat to partridge. Even better, the local farmers and villagers grow nu- merous and varied types of vegetables and fruits. In particular the tomatoes are fantastic, as are the pep- pers, aubergines and potatoes. There are various edible wild plants, such as ‘tagarni- nas’, and herbs that have a high nutritional and medi- cal power. There are even edible flowers that I use in some of my dishes. Finally, there is the now famous apple, the Pero de Ronda (or Dog of Ronda), which was rediscovered at Madrid’s famous Fusion food fair a few years ago. This stunning, sweet, crispy fruit is only found in a few farms between Ronda and Arriate, but is making a comeback. Try and find one if you can. My company Inspira Art Culinary is a catering service that offers typical dishes of the Serrania as well as pa- ellas from my local region of Valencia. In particular my menu ‘Por Soleares de Ronda’ repre- sents a fusion between the old tradition and the new concepts of the culinary art.

Maria Terol, moved to Gaucin from Valencia, having trained at El Bulli and under Sergi Arola in Madrid. Her company Inspira organises events, tastings and teach- ing courses. Contact her on 676748201 or email terol- [email protected] www.theolivepress.es 41 the olive press - October 2 - October 15 20132741

MIX: Team at El Porton, Casa Quino and Nueva 13 owners, Benito at Tragatapas and Omar from Buenos Aires of his former proteges Pablo Ignacio at Casa Santa Pola, quails egg with ham on toast. Piek, 23, has recently set up who certainly knows what he is In terms of charm and consis- next door with a restaurant La doing and is close to many of tent quality, you will rarely find Fuente. Spain’s best chefs. anywhere better than Almoco- In pole position opposite the The Catalan has worked around bar. Parador, Pablo is honing some the country and is always up Sitting opposite the old Arabic of the exciting skills he learnt for a bit of experimenting, and gate near the old town it is an with Gomez, as well as recently he and his wife Felisa’s gorge- emblematic and extremely voted World Number One res- side restaurant is probably the popular local restaurant, with taurant Celler most beautiful certainly the town’s best wine de Can Roca in in Ronda. list. Catalunya. For atmosphere Run by a tight-knit team, it is I tried one of Steeped in bull- it is hard to beat the place to dine outdoors in the best ajo fighting history, Pedro Romero, summer and its owner Monolo blanco soups opposite the is the most knowledgeable imaginable with here you will bullring, where man around town when it pineapple, co- find my favourite Felisa’s broth- comes to food. conut milk and ers have carved Another excellent place to eat, Spice Route. miel de cana, Ronda tapa a solid formula just outside the town, is at Mo- The brainchild of urbane Mexi- as well as a producing a lino del Puente, where Ian Love can musician Cesar Hernan- great tapa of string of tradi- has been winning plaudits for dez, this is not only the Serra- duck breast on toast with red tional, but delicious dishes, in his tasty creations for many nia’s only such joint, but one of fruits and mint. particular the Rabo de Toro. years now. the best in Andalucia. Even better was his confit of Then, let’s not forget the Set up with wife Elaine after a Using fresh ingredients and a cod served with red chard charming El Porton – an institu- number of years on the coast, wealth of herbs, he is proving leaves and a cherry tomato, red tion - run by friends Javier and this is a great place to stay as that you can eat good qual- pepper and onion ratatouille. Pepe for the past 40 years. well. ity food without meat. A sweet Super refreshing. Steeped in bullfighting history, And yet there is more. In par- gazpacho of red peppers was If anyone can match the quality here you will find my favourite ticular with the opening of a fantastic, as was his great of these guys it would be chef Ronda tapa, the wonderful new vegetarian restaurant The value chili beans with rice for just € 6. Indeed, there is nothing here for more than €9, ex- Best rural options cept a few bottles of ON a journey out of Ronda (or en route), you are spoilt well-sourced wines. for choice with a trio of emblematic places to eat. For international Award-winning Molino del Santo, in Benaojan, is not just food, Ronda also has highly-rated on Trip Advisor, but in canny Scot Gordon a friendly Argentin- Brown, (right) it has one of the best chefs in Andalucia. ian Buenos Aires, The food is impeccable and the location on a shady riv- run by characteristic erside terrace is beyond charming. Omar. It is an excel- Equally good – and creative to boot – is American Ste- lent spot for tapas, fan Crites of Al Lago, (left) overlooking the lake in Za- breakfast or just a hara. pint to watch the UK A massive supporter of local, seasonal ingredients, his football. restaurant has gone from strength to strength with help from the highly talented Mona. Conveniently you can now also stay the night with some lovely rooms upstairs. For more informa- Last, but not least, if it is authenticity you are after, you tion and an excellent must head for the converted olive mill that is Molienda guide to Andalucia’s in Benalauria. One of Malaga’s pretty small villages, best restaurants visit this is a true dining secret! www.diningsecretso- fandalucia.com