Gough and Inaccessible Islands

. THE GLOBAL EDITION OF THE NEW YORK TIMES ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT THURSDAY,OCTOBER 10, 2013 | 5 Gough and Inaccessible Islands, located in the middle of the South Atlantic between South Africa and Uruguay,are invaluable to scientists studying natural processes and marine species The isolation of Gough and Inaccessible Islands makes their OERS temperate island system one of least disturbed in the world. VAN RON GOUGH AND INACCESSIBLE ISLANDS | Listed as World Heritage in 1995 Remote from human populations, islands remain relatively untouched ough Island and Inaccessible Island show ‘‘the sealers, whalers and pastoralists during the 18th and avian radiation (how species develop and change) Despite its seclusion, the World Heritage site defin- well as having probable impacts on the plants and in- world as it was created,’’ says Chris Bates. 19th centuries. and natural selection in the Tristan archipelago, in itely has its threats. As elsewhere around the planet, vertebrates,’’ says Stringer. ‘‘Research on the Tristan G ‘‘They areamong thelast truly wild places on ‘‘Because of their isolation,the islands represent much the same way asCharles Darwin didinthe illegal long-line fishing by Asian trawlers has found its albatross and Gough bunting indicates that both of the planet. Nothing but sea all around, no ships, no some of the least disturbed temperate island sys- Galápagos Islands. way into the Tristan archipelago. Maritime pollution these species are being driven toward extinction due planes. just you and the whales and the birds and the tems in the world,’’ says Bates. The flora of both islands, aswell as the animals of and the threat of oil spills or other accidents is anoth- to the impacts of mouse predation.’’ waves and the wind and the sharks.’’ Peter Ryan, an ornithologist and amember of the surrounding ocean, are also varied and abundant. er concern, especially in the wake of awreck of abulk- The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, to- Bates is Tristan da Cunha’s representative in the Tristan’s Biodiversity Advisory Group, calls these is- ‘‘The endemic plants and ferns of the islands are sig- carrier cargo ship in 2011 that had asevere impact on gether with the University of Cape Town and the United Kingdom. The islands and their waters —inthe lands ‘‘the Galápagos in miniature.’’ nificant, as are the populations of fish and of marine several local bird species, including the penguins. Tristan government, has recently began amice- South Atlantic, about halfway between South America Both islands support seabird creatures,’’ says Bates. Authorities are considering aplan that would keep eradication test. If the pilot program proves success- and the southern tip of Africa —form one of the colonies of global importance. On ‘They are among Among the larger animals that vessels afar greater distance from the archipelago ful, it will be extended to the entire island. globe’s most remote Unesco World Heritage sites and Gough alone, the numbers are excep- the last truly wild congregate around the islands are than at present. Meanwhile, conservationists are urg- Although visiting Unesco World Heritage sites — are part of the U.K. overseas territory Saint Helena, tional. Twenty seabird species nest Shepherd’s beaked whales, southern ing that more equipment to tackle spills of oil and oth- and ticking them off abucket list —isagrowing travel Ascension and Tristan da Cunha. on the island, including half the places on the planet’ right whales, humpbacked whales, fin er hazardous substances be kept permanently on the trend, those familiar with Gough andInaccessible say Even among the 260-odd people who live in the globe’s northern rockhopper pen- whales and pilot whales, as well as islands. the islands will most likely never host tourism. Tristan de Cunha archipelago, the rugged landfalls of guins and around three million great shearwater fur seals, southern elephant seals, dusky dolphins ‘‘The biggest threats to Gough and Inaccessible at ‘‘These two islands are fantastically beautiful but Gough (pronounced Goff) Island and the aptly named breeding pairs, as well as rare birds like the wandering and hammerhead sharks. present are related to invasive alien species,’’ says Clare also very fragile,’’ says Sean Burns, who recently com- Inaccessible Island are terra incognito. albatross and southern giant petrel. This past summer, Sue Scott, marine biologist, dis- Stringer of the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, pleted athree-year stint as administrator of the over- With tall cliffs, surrounded by turbulent seas, the is- ‘‘And it’s not just the seabirds,’’ says Ryan. ‘‘Inac- covered anumber of previously unknown sea which supports much of the research on the islands. seas territory. ‘‘There are very strict rules about any- lands are uninhabited (but for asmall South African cessible has the smallest flightless bird in the world, creatures in the waters around Inaccessible and Gough Gough is plagued by introduced house mice that body landing on the islands from cruise ships. And meteorological team on Gough) and remarkably diffi- the Inaccessible Island rail.’’ Inaccessible also has during an oceanographic expedition on aBritish Antarc- have evolved to three times their normal size. They even if those laws didn’t exist, theywould be very dif- cult to reach. They were never permanently colonized an endemic bunting, or finch, which researchers like tic Survey vessel. The unrecorded species included cor- prey on nesting chicks, eating them alive. ‘‘The mice ficult to get onto because of the immense cliffs.’’ by humans and were only temporarily occupied by Ryan are studying in an effort to better understand als, worms, sea slugs, crustaceans and fish. seem to be having an impact on most of the birds, as J.R.Y. PEOPLE | Researchers in faraway places ‘Inaccessible’ is an almost literal description of thesite ocated in the middle of the South At- Those doing field research on Gough or Inac- lantic, about halfway between South cessible must sleep in tents or very basic L Africa and Uruguay, Gough Island and huts. The weather, especially the gale-force Inaccessible Island present unique chal- winds, is often harsh. And the isolation is ex- lenges to those trying to preserve the flora treme: one can go days or even months with- and fauna of thesedistinctive and unspoiled out seeing anotherhuman being. landscapes. The fieldwork tends to be amix of basic Neither island boasts an airstrip, which research, monitoring the populations of means that researchers, conservation offi- threatened species, checking pollution cials and other visitors can’t fly in without levels and restoring the islands by helping to the use of ahelicopter. Imposing cliffs make eradicate introduced species. REINVENT it nearly impossible to land aboat on either Yet there are those who relish toiling in island. this splendid isolation. John Cooper, aSouth The South African polar research vessel OERS African ornithologist who helped craft the YOURSELF S.A. Agulhas II calls upon Gough agrand VAN nomination for World Heritage status and total of once per year (normally in Septem- the International Agreement on the Conser- ber) to resupply or relieve asmall South Af- RON vation of Albatrosses and Petrels, made his RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT &DAY rican meteorological team at Transvaal Bay Fur seals at Gough Island. 18th visit to Gough this year. on the southeast coast. Those trying to ‘‘My first visit was in 1982, and I’ve been reach Inaccessiblehave to arrange their have to stay for 12 months. Running addi- visiting every year since 2006 as part of the Discoverthe Jaeger-LeCoultre own maritime transport. tional trips is extremely expensive. The other annual relief,’’ says Cooper, who gets there Scientists with permission to carry out thing is that when things do go wrong — on the Agulhas II. jewellerywatch line at research on Gough usually hitch aride on such as the oil spill in 2011, which affected While Cooper admits that fieldwork on ladies.jaeger-lecoultre.com the Agulhas II. If they cannot complete their some penguins at Inaccessible island —itis the islands can be difficult, the conditions work during the two-to-three-week period very difficult to get help out there quickly.’’ don’t faze him. ‘‘The South African weather when the ship remains in the Tristan da ‘‘It’s certainly achallenge to get there,’’ station has all needed facilities —power, Cunha archipelago,they must remainonthe says Peter Ryan, anornithologist andmem- hot water, light, deep freezes, Internet, island for an entire year. ber of Tristan’s Biodiversity Advisory Group. plumbing, small lab, etc. —but is aging and ‘‘The remoteness of the islands does lim- ‘‘In 1989, when Iwas doing my Ph.D. re- is due to be replaced from 2015,’’ he says. it what we are able to do,’’ says Clare search, it took us five weeks to get from Life on Inaccessible Island is equally Stringer of the Royal Society for the Protec- Tristan to Inaccessible! But the island's iso- challenging. Researchers normally stay in a tion of Birds. ‘‘We can only send one team of lation is also ahuge benefit.’’ small hut at Blenden Hall on the west coast, two people to the island each year and they Reaching the islands is only half the battle. but they also have the option of camping near awaterfall on the east coast or at a primitive campsite on the island’s plateau- like summit. ‘‘Living conditions are fairly spartan,’’ Aspirit of innovation and adventure says Ryan. ‘‘We have asolar panel to charge batteries, but otherwise live on what Back in the 16th century, the raised animals, and acommunity we take to the island (no refrigeration) and sparsely populated Vallée de Joux, in developed around his efforts. bathe in the stream (chilly!).’’ western Switzerland, must have Tengenerations later, in 1833, Yet for those who have gotten to know seemed like the ends of the earth.

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