FOODFOOD FOODFOOD PEOPLE PEOPLE MONEYMONEY & & SENSE SENSE PLUSPLUS A GoodSpice Fry Trail SplitTalk Ticket Shop ImportedFood Hall Goods Fame I’ll DrinkApp toAssist That RediscoverA menu staple the regions gets of India, HowNip to profitthat pain from in shared the neck, ForeignYou’ll concepts want to get set in up, BuildMaximize a better location-based wine list, a makeover,page page 22 5 plates, pagepage 4041 shop,page page 48 55 marketing,page 66 page 72 EGG-TERRESTRIAL LIFE Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success EGG- TERRESTRIAL

THELIFE RITE OF WOOD-FIRE COOKING SUMMER 2017 FOODFOOD FOODFOOD PEOPLE PEOPLE MONEYMONEY & & SENSE SENSE PLUSPLUS A GoodSpice Fry Trail SplitTalk Ticket Shop ImportedFood Hall Goods Fame I’ll DrinkApp toAssist That RediscoverA menu staple the regions gets of India, HowNip to profitthat pain from in shared the neck, ForeignYou’ll concepts want to get set in up, BuildMaximize a better location-based wine list, a makeover,page page 22 5 plates, pagepage 4041 shop,page page 48 55 marketing,page 66 page 72

BLAZING TRAILS Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success

BLAZING SUMMER 2017 WOOD-FIRETRAILS THE RIGHT WAY FOODFOOD FOODFOOD PEOPLE PEOPLE MONEYMONEY & & SENSE SENSE PLUSPLUS A GoodSpice Fry Trail SplitTalk Ticket Shop ImportedFood Hall Goods Fame I’ll DrinkApp toAssist That RediscoverA menu staple the regions gets of India, HowNip to profitthat pain from in shared the neck, ForeignYou’ll concepts want to get set in up, BuildMaximize a better location-based wine list, a makeover,page page 22 5 plates, pagepage 4041 shop,page page 48 55 marketing,page 66 page 72

BLAZING TRAILS Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success BLAZING

WOOD-FIRETRAILS THE RIGHT WAY SUMMER 2017 FOODFOOD FOODFOOD PEOPLE PEOPLE MONEYMONEY & & SENSE SENSE PLUSPLUS A GoodSpice Fry Trail SplitTalk Ticket Shop ImportedFood Hall Goods Fame I’ll DrinkApp toAssist That RediscoverA menu staple the regions gets of India, HowNip to profitthat pain from in shared the neck, ForeignYou’ll concepts want to get set in up, BuildMaximize a better location-based wine list, a makeover,page page 22 5 plates, pagepage 4041 shop,page page 48 55 marketing,page 66 page 72

MUSSEL IN Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success

THEMUSSEL FRENCH EVOLUTION IN HAS ARRIVED SUMMER 2017 FOODFOOD FOODFOOD PEOPLE PEOPLE MONEYMONEY & & SENSE SENSE PLUSPLUS A GoodSpice Fry Trail SplitTalk Ticket Shop ImportedFood Hall Goods Fame I’ll DrinkApp toAssist That RediscoverA menu staple the regions gets of India, HowNip to profitthat pain from in shared the neck, ForeignYou’ll concepts want to get set in up, BuildMaximize a better location-based wine list, a makeover,page page 22 5 plates, pagepage 4041 shop,page page 48 55 marketing,page 66 page 72

MUSSEL IN Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success

MUSSELTHE FRENCH EVOLUTION IN HAS ARRIVED SUMMER 2017 FOODFOOD FOODFOOD PEOPLE PEOPLE MONEYMONEY & & SENSE SENSE PLUSPLUS A GoodSpice Fry Trail SplitTalk Ticket Shop ImportedFood Hall Goods Fame I’ll DrinkApp toAssist That RediscoverA menu staple the regions gets of India, HowNip to profitthat pain from in shared the neck, ForeignYou’ll concepts want to get set in up, BuildMaximize a better location-based wine list, a makeover,page page 22 5 plates, pagepage 4041 shop,page page 48 55 marketing,page 66 page 72

LE BIG MEC Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success

LE BIG MEC

SUMMER 2017 THE FRENCH EVOLUTION HAS ARRIVED FOODFOOD FOODFOOD PEOPLE PEOPLE MONEYMONEY & & SENSE SENSE PLUSPLUS A GoodSpice Fry Trail SplitTalk Ticket Shop ImportedFood Hall Goods Fame I’ll DrinkApp toAssist That RediscoverA menu staple the regions gets of India, HowNip to profitthat pain from in shared the neck, ForeignYou’ll concepts want to get set in up, BuildMaximize a better location-based wine list, a makeover,page page 22 5 plates, pagepage 4041 shop,page page 48 55 marketing,page 66 page 72 SIX WAYS TO SUNDAE Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success SIX WAYS

THEYTO ALL SUNDAE LEAD TO PROFITS SUMMER 2017 TREND TRACKER

Stay ahead of the curve, p. 36 Summer 2017 FoodFanatics.com MONEY & SENSE RESTAURANT SURVIVAL GUIDE Review these time-proven tactics to improve longevity. 59 IMPOSTERS REVEALED Equip yourself with knowledge and vigilance. FOOD 62 RIPE FOR THE PICKING Summer calls for new takes IN EVERY ISSUE on the classic tomato salad. TREND TRACKER ADVERTISEMENT 5 What’s hot and what’s not. 36 SUNDAE SCHOOL Take a crash course on this FEED THE STAFF trending dessert. Your dishwasher is your secret C2 12 weapon to success. 68 PLAYING WITH FIRE Fan the flames for flavor and IHELP profit without getting burned. On demand delivery is ready to 16 be your new cash cow. 66 FRENCH REVOLUTION Franco-American cuisine is PR MACHINE any way you want it. Rescue your restaurant or let go. 26 68 DEAR FOOD FANATIC FOOD PEOPLE Get your straight talk right here. GET READY FOR REAL TALK 70 Understanding Gen Z paves the way to loyal customers. BEYOND THE PLATE 41 Individual staff style can benefit business. TALK SHOP 73 How do you deal with Check out gender discrimination? I’LL DRINK TO THAT! FoodFanatics.com 44 Heat up summer with for more ideas and wine slushies. menu inspiration. ROAD TRIP! 74 Put your seafood face on and drop the ‘r’ in all your words. BY THE NUMBERS We’re headed to Boston. The scoop on ice cream.

52 76 PHOTO BY FRANK LAWLOR

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 1 View the magazine on the web Join the FoodFanatics.com US FOODS ADVISORY BOARD President and Chief Executive Officer conversation on social Pietro Satriano Senior Vice President of Marketing Marshall Warkentin

Vice President of Product Development and Innovation Stacie Sopinka

Vice President of Corporate Marketing Diane Hund Program Sales and Sponsorships Jennifer Paulson

CHEF CONTRIBUTORS Jeffrey Bland, Roanoke, VA Matthew Dean, Streator, IL Dwight Drake, Cincinnati Peter Felton Allentown, PA Christopher Kube, Norwich, CT Martha Leahy, Seabrook, NH Jeffrey Schlissel, Boca Raton, FL

PUBLISHING PARTNER Feedback ANY DAY CAN BE SUNDAE We welcome your comments. Please email us at: Creating promotions around sundaes is as easy [email protected] Chief Creative Officer as the sell. Our Food Fanatics chefs have plenty Joline Rivera Write us at: Food Fanatics Magazine ADVERTISEMENT of ideas and recipes for you to start increasing Chief Content Officer Bite Me Media Laura Yee 4407 N. Beacon St., Suite 3S check averages now. Chicago, IL 60640 Contributing Editor Unless otherwise specified, all Carly Fisher correspondence sent to Food FEEL THE BURN Fanatics is assumed for publication Photographer and becomes the copyright PAGE 3 Is there such thing as a happy accident? Yes, Paul Strabbing property of US Foods. if you’re talking about a burnt dish that led to Contributing Writers Advertising Information Lisa Arnett For rates and a media kit, contact a successful approach for wood-fire cooking at Peter Gianopulos Jennifer Paulson at Ned Ludd in Portland, Oregon. Jodi Helmer 847-268-5176 or email Jennifer. Megan Rowe [email protected]. Mike Sula Food Fanatics is the go-to source Michael Tsonton for the foodservice industry and SPEAK EASY anyone truly passionate about food, food people and improving Want to resonate with Gen Z, the next big the bottom line. Issued quarterly demographic to impact foodservice? Learn to and hand-delivered to readers, the magazine is a US Foods publication speak their language as in get hyped and glow produced by BiteMe Media,, 4407 N. Beacon St., Suite 3S, Chicago, IL up to slay your youngest diners with real talk. 60640 312-887-1000. For more information on the Food Fanatics program, visit www.FoodFanatics.com ONLY THE STRONG SURVIVE All rights reserved. © The secrets to a long-running restaurant are wrapped up in hard work and staying relevant. About US Foods Here areo more tactics for your survival guide. US Foods is one of America’s great food companies and a leading foodservice distributor, partnering with approximately 250,000 chefs, restaurateurs and foodservice operators to help their businesses succeed. With nearly 25,000 employees and more than 60 locations, US Foods provides its customers with a DELIVERY PLATFORMS DECODED broad and innovative food offering and a comprehensive suite Online delivery services are vying for your of e-commerce, technology and business solutions. US Foods is headquartered in Rosemont, Ill. and generates approximately $23 business. Take a deep dive into the many options. billion in annual revenue. Discover more at www.usfoods.com.

SLUSHIE FUN Here’s one more way to increase bar sales this summer: This peach wine slushie recipe. 9300 W. Higgins Rd. Suite 500 Rosemont, IL 60018 (847) 720-8000 www.usfoods.com

2 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FOOD

ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 4

FOR THE PICKING Summer calls for new takes on the classic tomato salad BY THE FOOD FANATICS TEAM Burrata and Prosciutto Caprese Executive Chef Joe Magnanelli Cucina SORELLA, San Diego 1 ounce prosciutto ½ burrata ball Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste ½ ripe peach, sliced ½ ounce arugula ½ ounce Gaeta olives 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use Lemon juice to taste ❱ TOMATOES PICKED AT 1 tablespoon balsamic reduction THE HEIGHT OF THE 5 petite basil leaves SEASON PLATED WITH FRESH Place a layer of prosciutto MOZZARELLA, GOOD OLIVE along the bottom of the plate. Place burrata just off OIL, SEA SALT AND FRESH center of the prosciutto and BASIL IS A NO-BRAINER DISH. season with salt and pepper. Add an acidic component like balsamic vinegar and Arrange peaches on plate freshly ground black pepper, and even the greenest as desired. staffer can hold down the garde manager station. So why mess with the tomato mozzarella Swap in the Understudy Toss arugula and olives with salad known as caprese? Differentiation. Other seasonal ingredients shine 1 tablespoon extra-virgin Chefs can up their game by pairing seasonal olive oil and salt and pepper. tomatoes with other produce at the height of the Executive Chef Joe Magnanelli of Cucina SORELLA Place the arugula on either season and swap out mozzarella for other cheeses YOUR DINERS WANT THIS in San Diego uses the caprese to show off ingredients side of the burrata and like burata or ricotta. at their peak like peaches and squash. peaches and squeeze a little While the salad originates from Italy (the Tomato caprese salads are found 1.5 times “I’m inspired by the seasons, our local bounty and lemon juice over the salad. colors represent the Italian flag) and hails from more often in the summer months. farmers who work to provide San Diego with fresh the country’s southern island of Capri (hence the ingredients year-round,” he says. “I love taking Drizzle the balsamic name, caprese) operators are reinterpreting it 12 percent what’s been grown a few miles away and finding reduction and the extra for their concept, be it a brewpub or ramen joint. The growth of tomato and cheese salads new and innovative ways to incorporate them into virgin olive oil over the salad. The salad is also venturing beyond antipasti by over the last five years. the menu.” Whimsically place the basil influencing other menu items (see sidebar). Seasonal Considerations: Peaches star in the leaves over the arugula. Even though out of season tomatoes have $9 caprese during their height but after four to six Makes 1 serving. improved in flavor, the diner psyche says summer The median price of the caprese salad. weeks, heirloom tomatoes come into season which is still the best time to crush a tomato mozzarella lasts until the end of summer and into early fall. By Menu Price: $14 salad. Here are three takes to consider. Source: Datassential. winter, squash comes into play. Food Cost: 23 percent

6 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 7 THE POWER OF TOMATO, MOZZARELLA AND BASIL The Italian starter Global Appeal known as the caprese is An interpretation that works commonly improvised, but it’s also influential. In Salads aren’t common in Asian concepts, but the past five years, it has at Tanoshii Ramen + Bar in Dallas, the caprese grown beyond the salad salad inspired the staff to create one with tofu, menu by 48 percent, which stands in for the cheese. according to the food “This is a great starter because it also doubles research firm Datassential. as a vegan option,” says assistant manager Some examples: Danilo Velas. “Customers love this dish and it has become a gateway to introducing tofu to BURGER at The Grind, people who don’t normally eat it.” Phoenix, Arizona Seasonal Consideration: The menu item has The Italian Burger with become so popular that it’s become a staple, house roasted tomato, which works seamlessly at the Texas restaurant whole roasted garlic, where tomatoes and basil are luckily accessible pulled mozzarella, charred year-round. onions, fresh basil and arugula, $14. Tofu Caprese Owner Joey Li SANDWICH at Antico Tanoshii Ramen + Bar, Dallas Noe, New York City 3 tofu slices, grilled Prosciutto di Parma, 3 basil leaves tomatoes, basil, fresh 3 tomato slices mozzarella, EVOO, balsamic Cracked black pepper, to taste glaze and Antico Noe’s Sweet soy sauce, as needed famous pesto sauce, $13. Olive oil, as needed PASTA at Blind Faith Dot plate with soy sauce. Layer tomato, basil and grilled Cafe, Evanston, Illinois LAST SEEN tofu on plate. Drizzle soy sauce and olive oil and season Pasta Caprese featuring Executive Chef Heather Terhune of Tre Vali with salt and pepper. spaghetti, basil, mozzarella in Milwaukee pairs two knds of heirloom and Kalamata olives, $19. tomatoes with apricots, burratta, aged Menu Price: $6 sherry vinegar and marcona almonds for Food Cost: 25 percent SOURCE: Datassential her version of the summer salad.

8 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 9 Form Follows Function Impress with presentation

Tim Stevens grew up eating avocados, a feel-good food memory that inspired him to create a beefed-up version of a tomato mozzarella salad. At The ABGB in Austin, Texas, a halved avocado serves as the bowl for the salad. “The customers are impressed by the presenta- tion,” he says. “It has a ‘whoa’ moment when it hits the table.” Seasonal Considerations: Tepid winter temperatures in the Lone Star State allow for year- Avocado round tomatoes. But when local tomatoes run their Caprese Salad course, Stevens rotates strawberries in the spring Chef Tim Stevens and summer, then citrus in the winter. n The ABGB, Austin, Texas 6 ciliegine mozzarella balls 4 to 5 grape tomatoes, halved ¼ cup strawberries, sliced ¼ cup arugula 2 tablespoons Marcona almonds 2 tablespoons arugula pesto, recipe follows ADVERTISEMENT Pinch of microgreens ½ half avocado 1 tablespoon Texas olive oil 1 teaspoon balsamic PAGE 11 vinegar

Combine mozzarella, tomatoes, strawberries, arugula, almonds and microgreens in a bowl and stir in the arugula pesto. Fill the avocado half with salad mixture so that it cascades out onto the plate. Top with olive oil and balsamic reduction. Makes 1 serving.

To make arugula pesto, place 3 packed cups arugula, 1 cup toasted pecans or pine nuts, 3 cloves garlic, 1 tablespoon salt and ½ tablespoon black pepper in a food processor. Pulse and process while slowly adding 1 cup extra virgin olive oil.

Menu Price: $9 Food Cost: 18 to 20 percent

10 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 11 Get more sundae ideas and recipes at FOODFANATICS.COM

❱ Ice cream topped with sauce and whipped cream isn’t much to scream about, which is why sundaes have long been bypassed in favor of other pastry showstoppers. Chefs thinking a little deeper, though, know that a few texture tweaks and contrasting flavors can make sundaes worthy of commanding attention and boosting more of the bottom line. “One of the reasons people order sundaes is because they want more than plain ice cream,” says Beth Kellerhals, chef at Playa Provisions, which includes the dessert concept, Small Batch, in Playa Del Ray, California. “They want something special and it’s our job to take it to the next level.”

Create A Concept Sundaes can work on virtually any menu, whether it’s playing off nostalgia or experimenting with trending flavors to fit the concept. Variations on sundaes can be found throughout Take a crash course on Daniel Boulud’s concepts, including his three New York City-based Epicerie Boulud and Cafe Boulud in Boston and Toronto. “People feel comfortable and happy going back this trending dessert to childhood memories via food,” says Pastry BY FOOD FANATICS STAFF Chef Robert Differ of Bar Boulud at the Mandarin Oriental in Boston. “All our sundaes are based on flavors everyone knows and loves. We take those flavors and elevate them with a few surprises.” His mint chocolate sundae is a throwback to the beloved Girl Scout Thin Mints cookies, highlighting mint chocolate cookie ice cream, semi-sweet chocolate sauce, chocolate wafers and whipped cream. Differ also taps into nostalgia with a strawberry shortcake inspired sundae that includes warm marshmallow, strawberry ice cream, Inspired by the strawberry sauce and sable cookies. successful promotion at Pastry Chef Megan Garrelts of Rye in Bar Boulud in Boston, this sundae unites strawberry Leawood, Kansas also draws inspiration from mascarpone mousse, traditional desserts. strawberry ice cream, mascerated strawberries Her ‘anything-goes’ policy drives her and toasted coconut. reinterpretation of baking classics. Garrelts’

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 13 Lemon sorbet, pistachio ice cream, preserved meyer lemon, feuilletine and a lemon madeleine provide a study in crunch and contrast. For example, the cream cheese base for Kellerhals’ cheesecake ice cream is creamier and thicker, much like a custard. Pairing it with a T ELL caramel sauce would be counterintuitive, she says. ME A It would be too creamy, “too one-note.” Instead, she SToRY pairs the cheesecake ice cream with a blueberry compote, which compliments the creaminess of the ice cream, finishing it with a bright note of lime zest and whipped cream. THE HUMBLE SUNDAE Thoughtful Layering ISN’T SO SIMPLE WHEN Much like iced cocktails, the melting speed of IT COMES TO ITS PAST. a sundae changes its viscosity. Layered toppings are essential to maintaining complexity and balance HERE’S SOME FODDER of textures. FOR YOUR SERVERS, Kellerhals credits the hot fudge sundae at Dairy COURTESY OF ANNE Queen for helping her understand the importance of layering. “That sundae, in my mind, was the FUNDERBURGH, HISTO- over the sundae and tops it with whipped cream and Blueberry according to the ice cream first step to realizing that layers are very special RIAN AND AUTHOR OF chunks of carrot cake. Cheesecake Ice maker’s instructions. and important,” she says. “It wasn’t just a hot Cream Sundae fudge sundae. It was tasting how the salty peanuts SUNDAE BEST. Sweet Rewards Chef Beth Kellerhals Combine blueberries, highlighted the hot fudge.” ❱ Several cities claim to Diners aren’t saving dessert for dinner anymore. Playa Provisions ½ cup remaining sugar Chrysta Poulos, corporate pastry chef for Ford have invented the sundae. Of all restaurants serving sundaes, 45 percent Playa Del Ray, California and balsamic vinegar in a Fry restaurants in Atlanta, layers flavors so that They include: New Orleans; offer the dessert all day compared to 15 percent saucepan and cook over the diner can evenly experience the components Ithaca, New York; Two exclusively sold at dinner, according to the research 2 cups sugar, divided use medium heat until thick, together. The special she served at the steakhouse, Rivers, Wisconsin; and firm Datassential. 6 ounces cream cheese, about 15 to 20 minutes to Marcel, for example, featured a heated, crumbled Evanston, Illinois. Bar Boulud enjoyed success last summer for its THE DESSERT softened make compote; set aside. brownie covering the entire surface of an oblong sundae promotion, accounting for 16 percent of THAT RULES 1½ teaspoon vanilla ex- serving dish topped with two scoops of vanilla ❱ The original sundae, overall dessert sales including a significant portion Sundaes show up tract, divided use Whisk together remaining bean ice cream, drizzled salted caramel and hot which can be traced ordered during lunch, which is typically not a far more often on ½ teaspoon lemon juice 1 cup heavy cream, fudge and evenly distributed roasted salted peanuts. back to the late 1800s, dessert selling time. menus than their ¼ teaspoon salt powdered sugar, lime zest It’s then finished with chantilly cream piped consisted of a small “It was a big success monetarily and in creating cool counterparts. 2 cups whole milk and remaining ½ teaspoon through a pastry bag. bowl of ice cream with buzz,” he says. “People were splitting them and there 2½ cups heavy cream, vanilla until soft peaks form. Layering should account for the amount of each chocolate syrup. Over the were many who came in just for the sundaes.” Sundaes divided use ingredient, says Differ. For his hazelnut rocher next five years, whipped Sales at Rye echoed the same results. “ Seasonal 2 cups blueberries To assemble, place 3 sundae, he found that adding Nutella into the cream, nuts and a cherry sundaes are very easy for us to create and present an 22.8 % ½ cup sugar scoops of cheesecake ice glass like a hot fudge was too overpowering for followed. interesting option for diners, specifically those who ½ teaspoon balsamic cream in the bottom of a the hazelnut gelato, which was the component he are looking to share,” says Garrelts. Ice cream float vinegar small bowl or tall glass. take on German chocolate cake features coconut wanted to highlight. Smearing the Nutella on the ❱ During the 1890s Blue Along with an increased interest from diners, ¼ cup powdered sugar Alternate with thin layers ice cream, a dulce de leche sauce smeared into glass in a swirl motion added just enough effect, Laws prevented the sale pastry chefs can benefit by getting scrappy with 7.8% Zest of 1 lime of graham crumble and the glass, toasted coconut, chocolate soda and along with the addition of praline feuilletine, which of sundaes on Sunday customization. At Small Batch, Ketterhals keeps ½ teaspoon vanilla extract blueberry compote. Finish chocolate cake diced on top with whipped cream. introduces a delicate crispy texture and maintains because it became a food costs in check by stretching ingredients like the Milkshake Graham cracker crumble, with the lime whip cream “If you are working with a familiar recipe, you can its body even as the ice cream melts. The sundae is widely popular Sunday blueberry compote used in the coffee cake during recipe follow and a few blueberries. rearrange the components and the customer will also topped with tiny chocolate covered crunchies treat and competed with Playa Provisions’ breakfast and brunch programs 7.4% Blueberries for still enjoy it because it’s something that they know he calls carmelia and a housemade hazelnut rocher. the Christian sabbath. for her sundaes. Variety in the dessert pantry also garnishing To make graham cracker and understand.” Temperature is also an important consideration allows for flexibility by accommodating diners with Cup of ice cream crumble, combine 2 cups when layering a sundae. “Ice cream is cold and I ❱ Retailers adopted dietary restrictions, swapping sorbet instead of ice Beat 1½ cups sugar and graham cracker crumbs Find Your Base am always thinking about how we compliment that the spelling of ‘sundae’ cream for a dairy-free option. 3% cream cheese until smooth with ½ cup sugar, 1 The same unbending principles for cooking apply: with texture and a warm component,” says Garrelts. because advertising a “Being able to offer something that is unique and and add 1 teaspoon vanilla, teaspoon salt and ¼ cup A strong foundation and quality ingredients. To that Rye’s carrot cake sundae illustrates her method ‘Sunday Special’ would really well done is what makes people come back,” Cone lemon juice and salt. Slowly melted butter. Slack onto end, Differ, Kellerhals and Garrelts make their own by starting with scoops of ice cream at the base of lead consumers to believe Kellerhals says. “We are fortunate that we can just whisk in milk and 1½ cups sheet pan in a 325 F oven ice cream so that they can control the quality and the glass and alternating layers of walnuts, raisins, that the treat was only make a big batch of things and spread the love across 2.7% heavy cream and beat until for 10 minutes. Cool. balance flavors through texture. pineapple and caramel sauce. She pours orange soda available on Sunday. the menus.” n Source: Datassential and Techomic smooth. Chill and freeze

14 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 15 Wood-fire cooking directs the churrascaria menu at El Che in Chicago.

PLAYING WITH

fireFan the flames for flavor and profit without getting burned

BY MIKE SULA PHOTO BY FRANK LAWLOR

16 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 17 HANNELING THEIR INNER CAVE-COOK, Grilled Baby Octopus chefs are turning away from gas lines and Chef-owner Mike Randolph sparking up something more primal. Wood- Publico, St Louis, Missouri fire cooking is lit, driving concepts and open kitchen designs. 2 pounds of baby octopus, C cut into pieces It’s blazing up rotisseries, grills, hearths and brick ovens, imparting the wild flavors of smoke and char 1 lemon, zested to dishes you might think can’t take the heat. 1 jalapeno, chopped But wood fire can be tricky, and whether you 1 bunch of cilantro inherit an old tiled brick pizza dome or install a new 2 roma tomatoes, chopped BEGINNER’S imported double door hearth with gas assist and 2 tablespoons paprika internet connectivity, every oven comes with its 1 tablespoon oregano GUIDE TO own learning curve. Every chef who has cooked with 3 bay leaves fire—and has the burns to prove it—says there’s no Olive oil, as needed WOOD-FIRE short cut to taming the flames. 2 tablespoons agave nectar COOKING Before you fire the first order, spend time 2 tablespoons lime juice Live fire is unpredictable, getting to know its sweet spots, its heat retention making the inexperienced capabilities, and when to tamp or stoke the fire. Combine octopus, lemon prone to wasting product. Once you grasp the ways of the fire, you can cook just zest, jalapeno, cilantro,

Check out these tips to about anything. TOP AND BOTTOM PHOTO BY FRANK LAWLOR tomatoes, paprika, oregano avoid going down in flames. and bay leaves into a

Find the Sweet Spots Chef-owner John braising pot and add enough Use properly cleaned and Knowing where to position your food and wood in Manion, above, says water to reach 1-inch above cured or kiln-dried wood to the oven is critical to avoiding unhappy accidents. almost all of the menu the ingredients. Braise gets the wood-fire avoid smoking your kitchen Executive Chef Fernando Darin of Ray’s & Stark Bar treatment, including octopus for 1 ½ hours until out with moisture and dirt. in the Los Angeles County Museum of Art stages this spiced quail. tender. Strain and reserve his fire in the middle of the oven to maintain the liquid. Toss octopus in 1 Leave space awayfrom the roughly 850 degrees that produces the ideal char tablespoon of oil and then walls to maintain a free flow on his pizzas. Too close to the oven’s mouth and grill over live embers until of oxygen for a clean burn oxygen will spike the temperature. It’s also the right charred; set aside. with little smoke. spot to char his multicolored cauliflower, which he serves with sweet potato puree, grapefruit, crushed Heat a pan with olive oil To save oven floor space, candied walnuts and date vinaigrette ($15). and cook chorizo.. Add build your wood up Nearby at ROKU, Executive Chef Roger Lee marks reserved braising liquid. vertically in a cross hatched a temperature gauge between 380 and 400 degrees Season with agave nectar tower formation. for delicate dishes such as miso baked cod ($24). The and lime. Add grilled fish is marinated in three varieties of soybean paste octopus. Plate with sauce For food that requires before it is positioned as far from the embers as and garnish with cilantro. intense high heat and possible, roasting low and slow for about 15 minutes. short cooking time (like “If you cook it quickly it doesn’t get as flaky and flatbreads), maintain a delicious,” he says. constant flame by adding wood before it reduces Gather Around the Fire to ember. Different ovens require different tending protocols. In St. Louis, Chef-owner Mike Randolph For lower and slower maintains hot embers at all times in the eight-foot, cooking times, build custom-made hearth at Público. Two doors down your fire, seal off the oven at Randolfi’s, he keeps a 900-degree fire in the pizza and let the wood burn oven, where seasoned cast iron pans make a good down to embers, adding medium for transferring the heat of the oven floor more only occasionally onto delicate proteins like scallops. The extra work, during service to maintain vigilance and cost of the wood comes with a built-in the temperature. added value to his customers.

18 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 Deviled Ember Eggs Chef Chris Coleman Stoke, Charlotte, North Carolina 5 large eggs Embers, as needed Cornmeal, as needed 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon horseradish ½ teaspoon smoked paprika, plus extra for garnishing Kosher salt to taste 1 teaspoon parsley, minced ½ cup bread and butter pickles, small dice Crispy chicken skin, recipe follows

Combine enough equal part embers and cornmeal to fully cover eggs in a small hotel pan. Bake in preheated 200 F oven overnight or 8 hours. Cool, peel halved width-width wise. Scoop out yolks; set aside.

Slice a sliver of egg white from the bottom of each egg so it remains stationary.

Combine mayonnaise, lemon juice, horseradish, paprika and salt to taste. Whisk in yolks and pipe mixture into each shell. Garnish with paprika, pickles and chicken skin. Makes 2 servings.

To make crispy chicken skin, lay chicken skins on a parchment-lined sheet tray. Top with another piece of parchment over the top and another sheet tray on top, to flatten out the skins. Bake in preheated 250 F oven until fat is rendered and skin appears cooked.

Eggs are immersed in a Fry in shallow oil over mixture of embers and medium heat until crispy. cornmeal and cooked Break into shards. overnight for a creamy, smoky flavor.

20 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 Wood-fire cooking has grown 31 percent over the last four years, according to foodservice research firm Datassential. PHOTO BY FRANK LAWLOR ADVERTISEMENT

“It pays itself back not only in the flavor the wood the fire and close the lid, which creates an intense imparts on the food,” he says, “but the fact that every smoker that produces a smoked olive and Taleggio BEECH PAGE 23 customer who walks into either of these restaurants butter for the bread service. When the fire dies ROUND WOOD very clearly sees the time, love and effort we’re down, whole potatoes with seaweed are cooked in putting into it. When it’s a 30-degree day and the the embers, New England clambake style. Once FIRED OVEN wind’s blowing and the snow is coming down, it’s a cooled, they’re cooked further in duck fat and $40,000 very comforting sight.” seasoned with creme fraiche, turmeric and lemon Stoke, Charlotte, North The appeal of a wood-fired oven is also evident at for a warm potato salad ($10). Carolina Shaya in New Orleans, where its blue tiled pizza oven Chef Chris Coleman of Stoke in Charlotte, North that does little more than bake pita occupies prime Carolina hits extraordinarily high temperatures The concept benefits from real estate in the middle of the dining room. Chef de with his oven, which features a gas assist that makes the efficiency and style. cuisine Zachary Engel says the restaurant couldn’t starting the fire a snap and ensures it never drops Guests are drawn to the operate without it. below 650 degrees. The consistency allows for slow oven, seeking a closer look During the build-out of the restaurant, giving up roasting larger cuts of meat like lamb shoulder, and taking photos. the table space was debated. “It would have been chicken and pork shanks. When the fire dies, his huge mistake not to because it’s such a focal point. cooks sweep out the ashy embers, mixes in cornmeal People are automatically drawn to it,” Engel says. and covers 10 dozen eggs with the mixture. The eggs The pita is free, however, it sells as an occasional, bake in a 200-degree oven for eight hours. but profitable special. Kebabs el Babour features a “When you pull it out, the white has caramelized meatball stew with pita baked atop the bowl, a sort so when you open it up it smells like roast chicken,” of Israeli pot pie ($14 to $16). he says. “The yolk is still yellow and creamy, almost like a fudge.” Don’t Sleep on the Embers It’s that kind of result that makes the heat, soot Throughout service at 21 Greenpoint in Brooklyn, and flames all worth the effort, he says. n New York, the roaring 900-degree oven cranks out pizzas, large steaks and whole fish. During down Mike Sula is an award-winning writer who travels the time, Chef Sean Telo puts it to other tasks. world for wood-fired cooking. When the restaurant opens, the prep cooks light

22 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 Special Section Special Section

24 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 25 Special Section Special Section

26 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 27 Vitae volendit volorio nsequias aut ulliate dolecus, nonsed

in the FRENCH

EVOLUTION Retooled classics and renewed hospitality rule BY LAURA YEE PHOTO BY FRANK LAWLOR

28 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 29 ❱ FRENCH FOOD IS BACK IN A BIG WAY—SIMPLER, SMARTER AND SERVED WITH WARMER, MORE GENUINE HOSPITALITY. French food is back in a big way – simpler, smarter and served with warmer, more genuine hospitality. Classics represent, from steak frites to mussels meuniere, but standout through technique, indigenous ingredients and unexpected flavor combinations. Add French-ified American favorites like burgers and fries and the new age bistro begins to emerge. But how is the latest reboot different from the bistros and brasseries that dominated the late 90s and early 2000s that were described similarly? They’ve evolved. PHOTOS BY FRANK LAWLOR Technique Gets the Credit Ludo Lefebvre, the Los Angeles-based French chef who leaves a trail of gushing dining critics with each new concept, laughs at the suggestion that his casual 22-seat bar-bistro, Petit Trois, is defining new nouvelle cuisine. “I grew up with this kind of food,” says Lefebvre who is from the Burgundy region of France. “It’s the just what I love to eat, what I miss eating. I can’t get it here so I make it.” Consider his omelet, regarded as a bucket list dish for food obsessed diners who wait up to 2 hours for stool-only seating at Petit Trois that opened in 2014. Given the opportunity to discuss the $18 dish, Lefebvre concedes that the omelet of just eggs, butter, salt, pepper and sometimes a creamy cheese like Boursin, must seem innovative simply because Chef-owner Ludo LeFebvre, it requires a certain technique. bottom left, pulls off twists “It’s just an omelet, but you have to be gentle with to classic French dishes in limited space at Petit Trois it,” he says. “You have to take your time.” by ensuring that staff have Lefebvre also browns the cream for the $28 techniques and their given mussels mariniere and gives an otherwise roles down to a science. ubiquitous cheeseburger complexity by layering flavors. Petit Trois’ $18 cheeseburger enters a new realm when it includes housemade Russian dressing and a foie gras bordelaise sauce.

30 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 Mussels mariniere is a classic dish at Petit Trois.

Moules Frites Chef-owner Ludo Lefebvre Petit Trois, Los Angeles ¾ pound Dutch Arcadia mussels 1 shallot, sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons grape seed oil ¼ teaspoon chile flakes 2 thyme sprigs 1 fresh bay leaf 3 ounces white wine 3 ounces butter ADVERTISEMENT 3.4 ounces creme fraiche 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped Fleur de sel, to taste White pepper, to taste PAGE 33 1 slice French bread, toasted French fries, if desired

Heat oil in saute pan over high heat until smoky and add shallots, garlic, chili flakes, thyme, and bay leaf and sweat until aromatic.

Add mussels, saute 1 minute and white wine; cover. and cover with a lid. Uncover when contents come to a boil and add butter, and crème fraiche. Swirl pan to emulsify liquids. Cover until mussels open.

Add chopped parsley to pan, correct seasonings with salt and white pepper. Place toasted bread at the bottom of the bowl and fill with mussels. Serve with side of fries. Makes 2 servings. PHOTO BY FRANK LAWLOR

32 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 WHAT MAKES A Simplicity Drives Innovation I ALWAYS SAY I DON’T TREAT Last year, Antoine Westermann imported his FRENCH RESTAU- FRENCH Paris bistro that specializes in heritage-raised RANT FRENCH? A CUSTOMER LIKE A KING BUT chickens to New York City. The concept he calls A French bistro can be AS A FRIEND—THAT’S WHAT THROUGH “the bistro of beautiful birds” focuses on chicken, anywhere and defies the first poached and then finished on the rotisserie. It’s notion that it must be in MAKES IT A BISTRO.” THE AGES —Chef Ludo Lefebvre of Petit Trois in Los Angeles. available as an entrée for one ($25) and a whole bird a big city to be legit. Cookbook author and for four ($98). The menu features poultry by terroir “A French bistro tends to television personality Julia and age. be off the beaten path Evoke a Feeling Child s introduced the Westermann also plays out his love for chicken and be not in the city per Bellecour fully embraces its “Frenchness” by U.S. to French cooking with several egg dishes and other chicken parts, such se,” says Gavin Kaysen paying homage to Lyon, France, the birthplace of in the 60s and inspired a slow cooked egg with chanterelles, asparagus and of the recently opened his mentor and former boss of seven years, Chef countless individuals during peas in a chanterelle emulsion ($14) and a chicken Bellecour. “It tends to Daniel Boulud. Along with the food, the overall her lifetime and beyond soup of poultry both, cream and mushrooms ($16). be those restaurants design and hospitality are inspired by his numerous to become chefs. Though “Everyone knows chicken but not chicken like supported so perfectly by visits to Lyon restaurants and the meals shared with she never worked in a this,” Westermann says. “This is what surprises the neighborhood.” Boulud’s family (which still live on the farm where restaurant or considered people and makes it fun.” the French chef grew up). herself a chef, Child shaped AMONG THE LATEST: The front window of the bakery opens, allowing dining in America. Other Ingredients Still Run the Show the scent of bread and buttery croissant baking waft influencers in the evolution Identifying local ingredients or the highest quality Diners wait up PETIT TROIS onto the street, a memory reminiscent of walking of French cuisine: products as the cornerstone of redefined casual to two hours Los Angeles through the streets of Lyon, he says. A map of the city for one of the French might sound like an echo from the late 90s. The second location of that also produced Paul Bocuse, the grandfather of THE ORIGINAL INFLUENCERS 22 bar seats at But quality has evolved. Access has improved— Petit Trois. Ludo Lefebvre’s bistro-bar modern French who is also a Kaysen mentor, lines a operators behind casual French concepts have far concept will offer more restaurant wall while photos of Boulud with Kaysen (LATE 1800s to more local and regional artisanal purveyors to seats but in Sherman Oaks, and the elder chef as a small boy hang in the bakery. EARLY 1900s) choose from and can commission farmers to grow a neighborhood in the San “The majority of the meals that I’ve had in Lyon, Georges August Escoffier specifically for them. Fernando Valley. A July what makes them special has not just been the food Fernand Point Westermann, for example, wouldn’t be able to pull opening scheduled. but also the people I’ve been with,” Kaysen says. off his concept if he had not found farmers raising “When you’re surrounded by great people, the food NOUVELLE CUISINE heritage birds in the New York and New England ANDRE’S BISTRO & BAR and the experience are that much more delicious.” area after a year’s research. They grow the birds Las Vegas (1960s-1970s) past the requisite 90 days to achieve a deeper flavor Andre Rochat created a Renewed Hospitality Paul Bocuse profile, says Westermann, adding that diet also new partnership to roll Indeed, the customer experience couldn’t be more Roger Verge affects flavors and texture. out a concept that personal or purposeful. Perhaps nowhere is the Jean and Pierre Troisgros Locally grown ingredients also differentiates combines American and transformation of place more obvious than Petit off-the-strip Andre Bistro and Bar in Las Vegas. French classics. Trois, next door to Lefebvre’s Trois Mec, the tasting (1980s-1990s) Andre Rochat, who operated several fine dining menu-only sibling, both situated in a bland, easily Jean Louis Palladin restaurants during his 35-year tenure in Sin City. BARDOT BRASSERIE overlooked Los Angeles strip mall. Andre Soltner Rochat partnered with Stacked Hospitality to open Las Vegas Petit Trois lives up to its name, a long narrow Alain Ducasse the casual concept that features many of his dishes Michael Mina’s latest space with both sides flanked by the stool-only Michel Richard but in a casual setting. addition to his array of seating. A dark wood ledge with arched wood Gavin Kaysen’s restaurant-bakery Bellecour, concepts “embraces the mirrors runs the length of the restaurant’s left side; which recently opened earlier this year in a culture and feel of dining diners share the marble countertop space on the (1990s to PRESENT) Daniel Boulud Minneapolis suburb, uses locally grown and milled in a Parisian café with other with cooks and the bartender, all within Thomas Keller grains as the base for breads. Like most chefs, the focus and detail of a arm’s reach. Eric Ripert including seasonal and locally grown produce is a modern craft kitchen.” “The French bistro is the point of hospitality. You LAST SEEN Jacque Torres given but he has more choices which is essential. walk in and it’s small, it’s crowded. There’s a wel- After opening Rebelle two years ago, “Creating simplicity in your food is harder because PETIT MARLOWE WINE coming smell, a great feeling,” Kaysen says describ- Daniel Eddy’s recently launched an NEW NOUVELLE CUISINE there’s nothing to hide behind. Like with rotisserie BAR & OYSTERETTE ing his restaurant and Lefebvre’s even though he has all-day menu called “Little Rebelle,” serving dishes like herb roasted chick- chicken, it’s roast chicken, grilled leeks, and pommes San Francisco not dined at the Los Angeles restaurant. “In Lyon, (PRESENT) en on a baguette with aioli, pan ju and puree. All components have to sing,” Kaysen says. Emphasis on raw bar with there are so many restaurants like this on hidden Daniel Rose watercress ($15) on site and to-go. The new take on bistro, he says, is much more classics such as steak streets and in little alleys. Feeling welcome has Gavin Kaysen n Ludo Lefebvre than food. tartare and charcuterie. PHOTOS BY FRANK LAWLOR PHOTO BY FRANK LAWLOR always been the idea behind everything.”

34 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 35 TREND TRACKER The heat index on what’s happening

Say halo-halo KNOCK ON WOOD. Anyone who’s anyone Keep these days is cooking with to Filipino live fire. And if you want that to do it right, chefs say cuisine. wood-burning hearths Slowly simmering as other Asian Ditch the REMAKE, frosty are more than worth their cuisines took off, Filipino food is weight for smoking and ready to launch. Influenced by GO NATURAL. REMODEL. quick-fire execution. See cartoonish indigenous tropical produce along flowing Wine geeks have Even with the most prestigious page TK. with Spanish and Chinese cuisines, BORED WITH BOARDS. been riding the awards and customers to spare, concepts. this is one trend to watch. Ploughman’s platters and natural wine trend hitting the reset button can be freely. If your city’s restaurant row Slushies spiked with cheeseboards served on for years, but it’s finally a good thing. Long-timers like is starting to look like culinary booze are always a safe requisite wooden cutting LAST SEEN: Customers are known hitting the mainstream Union Square Café in New York Disneyland, it’s probably bet during summer, boards are so 2014. to line up two hours early to get into as restaurants pick and Niche in St. Louis freshened time to turn down the volume so why not ditch the the buzzy Bad Saint in Washington, up these funky, up in the past year and are and re-concept. bottom-shelf liquor TRY THIS INSTEAD: Custom D.C. Philippine, Korean and Chinese- unadulterated bottles reaping the benefits. for a cooler, crafty ceramic and vintage China will American flavors converge in lumpia loaded with surprising TRY THIS INSTEAD: Go back version? See page TK. brighten up your snacks with Shanghai eggroll at Mission Chinese character. to the basics. Concentrate on a signature, more elegant look in New York. refining your concept with subtle that can also build your brand. design touches, quality service and consistent execution.

@ny.foodie FRENCH NOUVELLE Nordic GETS A REBOOT. Much like farm-to-table

exposure. helped bring New American This isn’t the first time new Nordic into the 21st century, cuisine has tried to catch on but it new French Nouvelle is looks like this might be the year diners redefining classics with embrace those light, healthy and homegrown contemporary heirloom-centric flavors. touches. See page TK. LAST SEEN: Danish restaurateur Claus TWITTER Meyer launched a mini-empire inside New York’s Grand Central Terminal: a PUT A CHERRY ON IT. KISS QUITTERS. Nordic food hall, a deli/Danish hot dog Sweeten your bottom line with Want to connect with your diners? shop, and fine dining restaurant, Agern. cerebrally-crafted sundaes by CRUDO GOODBYE. You won’t find them on Twitter. considering the intent of every Much like tartare, this trendy Hungry social addicts looking for ingredient and the technique of raw protein has outworn its their next meal aren’t flocking to the layering. See page TK. welcome on menus. 140-character platform. UNDER THE INFLUENCE. TRY THIS INSTEAD: Go Try this instead: Throw your Most chefs would love to kick this raw with a playful riff on marketing weight into Instagram, trend to the curb, but there’s no carpaccio using thinly sliced Find the a hot spot for showing off denying the PR power of social and dressed vegetables for a flame to see cool dishes, fancy cocktails and influencers on Instagram healthy, unexpected dish that what’s hot. behind-the-scenes action. Even and YouTube. won’t break your bottom line #TrendTracker better, use video.

36 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2017 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 37 ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 38 PAGE 39 ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 40 PAGE 41 BY MEGAN ROWE PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR FOOD GET READY FOR PEOPLE REAL TALK UNDERSTANDING GEN

ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 42

PAVES THE WAY TO LOYAL DINERS Gen Z, the generation after millennials, are kids born after 1996.

SEGMENT OF DINERS WHO IS GENERATION STANDS TO DISRUPT THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY IN A WAY THAT’S NEVER A MOVING TARGET Depending on the BEEN SEEN. source, it’s defined as More adventurous palates, deeper concerns about anyone born between society and the environment, ingrained affinity 1995 and later. About for technology and the most diverse demographic a quarter of Americans to date, Generation Z is driving an evolution in (roughly 83 million) fit restaurant menus, design and service models. into that demographic, Engaging these young customers, defined as anyone approximately the same born after 1996, will pay off in decades of loyalty. Eatsa, a fully automated quick-service concept, proportion as millennials “Every parent, employer, marketer and neighbor takes things a step further: “No lines. No cashier. and baby boomers, needs to understand this new generation that is No nonsense.” Customers order from the menu of according to the U.S. poised to change everything,” says Jason Dorsey, quinoa bowls and salads using either their phone or Census Bureau. co-founder and chief strategy officer of the Center an in-store iPad, and orders (prepared by back-of- for Generational Kinetics, a firm that studies and the-house humans) pop out of a cubby. DIVERSE provides insight on different generations. But there’s a caveat. By 2020, half of the “In generations, the changes and trends we’re “You might think Gen Z would be less concerned under-18 population will seeing are actually rippling up instead of down,” he about the personal touch and more interested in be part of a minority race says. “That means that trends are now starting technology, but service is incredibly important to or ethnic group. These with teens and rippling up to the rest of us in a this group,” says Robert Byrne, senior manager kids are coming of age way that makes iGen (another term for Gen Z) of consumer insights for Technomic. “If I’m only in an era when same-sex the true trendsetters for everyone, including connected digitally all day, this might be the one marriage and fluid gender their grandparents. This explains why iGen’s time to connect with a person.” identity are moving toward grandparents use Facetime and may make the jump the mainstream. to Snapchat even if right now they think it is the ➤ MAINTAIN QUALITY most ridiculous thing ever.” Between the Food Network and “Top Chef,” an TECH-DEPENDENT If Dorsey is correct, restaurateurs will need to find explosion of better dining options and their status They are never without ways to slay their young diners but not come across as the most ethnically diverse group yet, Gen Zers their phones, and they as thirsty. Here’s a start to speaking their language aren’t likely to settle for so-so food. They favor local, embrace new ways of and getting to the K. organic ingredients and global flavors, along with leveraging technology. cage-free, grass-fed, humanely raised meats and ➤ KEEP UP WITH TECH plant protein options. VALUE-CONSCIOUS A decade ago, purse hooks at the bar were a nice Flower Child, a three-year-old Fox Restaurant Teens like to spend in touch. Today, the must-have amenities are charging Concepts brand, taps into those values in a hippie/ restaurants but don’t have stations and Wi-Fi, two items important to always- farmhouse chic setting that appeals to all, but the resources their older plugged-in Gen Z. Online ordering capability runs a especially families with young Gen Zers in tow. counterparts do; younger close third. The most popular dish, the Mother Earth Bowl, Gen Zers are too young to Because they are tech natives, Gen Z is often combines ancient grains, roasted sweet potato with have their own money. cashless. That phenomenon has driven several red pepper miso vinaigrette, cucumber relish with restaurant chains, including Sweetgreen, to adopt a broccoli pesto, arugula, Portobello mushroom, ADVENTUROUS EATERS cashless payment model. Not only does it speed up avocado and hemp seeds. “It’s hot, it’s cold, greens, Many have been exposed service, it also supports the company’s 30 percent of grains—a little bit of everything,” says Peder to world cuisines from an digital orders. Bondhus, the concept’s brand chef. early age.

44 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 45 At the University of Massachusetts in Amherst, a Gen Z’s top three favorite QSRs in Technomic’s variety of ethnic choices reflect the award-winning latest brand metrics study, scores high on the value dining program’s core values of health, world flavors, equation. The hot sandwiches are a good value, sustainability and community. Surveys show that “but it’s also a fun place,” says Robert Byrne, senior students value healthy, convenient, authentic and manager, consumer insight. “Most of their units exciting food choices, says Ken Toong, auxiliary have live musicians, and the decor, which hearkens enterprises executive director. They also favor back to Potbelly’s origin as an antique store, is noshing over full-blown meals, so smaller portions, WHERE THE unique in today’s environment.” such as 2-ounce grass-fed beef sliders in place of quarter-pounder burgers, have gone over well. ➤ TUNE IN TO THE RIGHT CHANNEL WHAT’S SO KIDS HANG Peer recommendations rule for this generation, ➤ SHOW, DON’T TELL but they aren’t using the same channels that older SPECIAL Gen Zers want to know where the food was born groups favor. According to investment firm Piper and see how it’s made, meaning open kitchens and Jaffray, which conducts a semi-annual survey of ABOUT THESE fast-casual assembly lines. Digital menus that list teenagers, they prefer Snapchat and Instagram (to RESTAURANTS? ingredient sources along with food allergy and Twitter and Facebook (see sidebar). After watching special dietary labels are important. those before them bare it all on Facebook, this They’re chain Some restaurants have taken transparency a step younger audience prefers more private, anonymous operations liked further, adding a sense of theater like the biscuit vehicles for sharing. by Gen Z. theater at newer units of Bojangles’ where customers Tender Greens taps popular teen vloggers Brennen can watch team members knead fresh dough from a Taylor and Colby Brock for regular live vlogs on QSR window behind the front counter. Domino’s tracking YouTube and Snapchat, which has fueled visits from Potbelly Sandwich app, which follows a pizza from order to delivery, eager fans. Spokesperson Christina Wong says the Shop, In-N-Out Burger, plugs into Gen Z’s desire for transparency and has company supports their habit with gift cards. “We Chick fil-A helped the chain remain relevant. More than half of love rewarding our rabid fans,” she says. the brand’s sales come through digital channels, half THE NET NET For Gen Z, brand loyalty depends on many moving FAST CASUAL of those via mobile ordering. 7 Ideas To Get Gen Z To Like You Now parts. “If you want to make a concept relevant to a Raising Canes, Habit generation, you need to be thoughtful about curating Burger Grill, Corner ➤ BE SOCIALLY CONSCIOUS ➊ Consider a few communal tables. Gen Z guests the overall guest experience,” says LeFranc. n Bakery Café Like millennials, Gen Zers tend to align with are more likely to use restaurants to meet up and companies that behave responsibly. Gen Z socialize with friends, and bigger tables are more Cleveland-based Megan Rowe covers trends in restau- CASUAL DINING customers “are not putting up with basic food and fun and inviting to groups. rants, hotels and travel.. Follow her @ontherowed. Chuy’s, Cheddar’s Scratch beverage,” says Fred LeFranc, founder of Results Kitchen, Chili’s Thru Strategy. “They are making conscious ➋ Cultivate a lifestyle, with hip Instagram shots showing off more than food, a relaxed, authentic Source: Technomic Consumer decisions to do business with businesses that have Gen Z are adventure- Brand Metrics a higher cause.” interior vibe and sleek menus. some eaters, exposed to world cuisines like Tender Greens, a fine casual health-focused Asian and Mexican concept based in California, is a model citizen. ➌ Engage Gen Z socially: Invite a popular local vlogger PINTEREST FACEBOOK foods at an early age. The founders have worked with growers to develop or local musicians for a meet and greet and reward hydroponic gardens, addressing California’s the first fans to show up with gift cards. They’ll 25% 52% extended drought. They also established the spread the good vibes through social channels. Sustainable Life Project, which provides six-month SNAPCHAT culinary internships to young adults aging out of ➍ Design in digital where possible—online and on-site the foster care system in Southern California. The ordering, payment, check splitting, menus. This 80% project evolved from an earlier practice of hiring generation likes information and efficient service. homeless teens. ➎ Offer coupons, especially the digital variety. Gen Z is TWITTER INSTAGRAM ➤ OFFER VALUE price-sensitive. Much of Gen Z is still counting on Mom and Dad 56% 79% or a minimum wage job to finance their tastes. That ➏ Connect with younger diners with a food-prep doesn’t necessarily mean they are looking for the display: pizza tossing, biscuit prep, in-house baking, cheapest food—remember, they value high quality tortilla making. and support sustainability—but they need some affordable options, or at least value for the money. ➐ Provide choices. Food-savvy Gen Zers like to Potbelly Sandwich Shop, which ranks among the customize their meals.

46 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 47 Emily Hahn Executive chef at Warehouse in Charleston, COOKING ON South Carolina Backstory: Worked at Mamma Zu in Richmond, Virginia, FIG in Charleston and Martin Pescador Lodge in Patagonia, Chile. Appeared on season 14 of “Top Chef.”

“While I have experienced misogynistic behavior in the past, I created a learning moment out of my experiences and promised myself that no such behavior would be tolerated in any kitchen or workplace where I am responsible for teaching, EQUALFOOTING training and leading by example. I do not ignore reality and am very aware that equal opportunity in the workplace doesn’t always exist, so I choose to run my kitchen and stack my team with individuals who respect themselves and the job that they do. All people are different in how they choose to handle situations that are not ideal. I certainly do not tolerate bad behavior and unfairness in the workplace. I have never been one to walk away from a problem, but some people never change. If How do you deal with gender discrimination? the going gets tough and you are truly stuck in a situation, you have to do your best to get out.”

Takeaway: Create a learning moment. Lorena Garcia Executive Chef of Lorena Garcia Cocina in Miami, Atlanta and Dallas

Backstory: Appeared on TV shows such as “Top Chef Masters” and “Food A quick look at the back of the house shows that kitchens Fighters.” Runs Lorena Garcia Culinary Loft, a private space in Miami for events continue to be a boys’ club. and TV production.

Women have an ownership role in half of the country’s restaurants “In a male-dominated industry, the biggest challenge would have to be earning respect in the kitchen. As the job can be physically demanding, it takes a female and 46 percent are in management roles, accoding to the U.S. chef that extra push to earn her place in the kitchen to avoid being perceived as Department of Labor. Though it’s tough to quantify the impact weak. I handle the pushback by making sure I enter the kitchen and my role in of aggressive, male-dominated kitchens rife with sexist behavior, the right way. Credibility is key in the role of a chef; it needs to be built in order to earn respect. Carrying myself with strength from the moment I enter the aspiring female chefs are making inroads in their careers. kitchen is crucial. I always ask the question: Do you enter the kitchen every day to be dominated, The following women share their experiences and offer insight on or do you enter each day fighting to earn respect? You always need to work harder, smarter and better to ensure that you not only earn respect, but that you what they’ve learned from dealing with gender discrimination. create the ability to grow in your role. The industry is becoming more open when it comes to accepting and respecting women in the culinary world. For up-and- coming female chefs, I urge them to be positive, strong and shine in the industry BY LISA ARNETT I am so proud to be a part of.”

Takeaway: Be confident and let your credibility shine.

48 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 49 Amanda Turner Chef de Cuisine at Juniper in Austin, Texas

Backstory: Cooked at Uchi and Odd Duck in Austin; named Rising Star Chef of the Year by CultureMap Austin.

“When I was younger, before I started cooking, I was a server at a fast-casual, chain restaurant for several years. I was really interested in learning how to cook, and realized that it was something I felt passionately about. When I approached my culinary manager with my interest, he laughed at me and told me that I would never be a cook because, ‘One, you don’t speak Spanish, and two, you’re a woman.’ (So) I quit my job and went to culinary school. Pursue your passions and don’t let someone else’s discrimination keep you from achieving your goals.”

Takeaway: Prove them wrong. n Leslie Pineda ADVERTISEMENT Head Chef at Il Fornaio in Santa Clara, California

Backstory: Worked as executive chef for Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Napa and Palo Alto, California, PAGE 51 and is the first woman to lead a location of Il Fornaio in the company’s 30-year history.

“(Misogynistic behavior) is not as obvious as it once was, and people have conformed to the idea of having a woman as a chef, but, yes, it’s still there. It’s funny that there are still silly people in this current day who have such an ignorant mentality. I let it slide off of my back like a duck does water. Ignore your doubters if it’s not a big deal that really affects you. But if it does, then speak up and bring it to the attention of someone who can help mediate the situation. In one of my very first management positions, I walked onto a staff of all men that had been at that restaurant for years and who were full of machismo. They refused to do anything I asked them because I was just a young girl in their eyes. I had to go through HR and the motions of reprimanding them, writing them up for insubordination and telling them that they needed to get on board or they were no longer welcome on my team. Eventually, they got the message, and I proved myself as their leader. They turned out to be one of my best teams.”

Takeaway: Bring in someone to mediate.

50 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 ❱ THE CALL OR TEXT that instantly turns your life into a living hell isn’t about death or taxes. It’s the dishwasher calling off, right before pre-shift, on a fully booked night. Without a dishwasher, the dish tank grinds to a halt and so does your restaurant. They may be on the bottom rung with the hardest, nastiest, YOU’RE worst job ever, but it happens to be the most important role You’re Not the Most Important in the restaurant. NOT THE So, keep your dish crew Person happy. Feeding them and being respectful is com- MOST It’s the dishwasher who’s your mon sense, but it doesn’t secret weapon to success buy skin in the game. Recognize that dish- washers are essential to IMPORTANTBy Michael Tsonton your overall success and you’ll see the benefits touch everyone. Train the dishwasher PERSON More Means Better to take on prep roles First, decide that like peeling It’s the DISHWASHER who’s dishwashers can and vegetables. should do more than your secret weapon to success wash dishes. This means prep work, such BY MICHAEL TSONTON as chopping herbs, Getting your dish crew to embrace prep work is production staff and cooks aren’t peeling potatoes slicing fruit and as important as them actually doing it. Seeing is or chopping celery. peeling vegetables. believing, which is why promoting from within has Make a list of the mundane and tedious tasks Asking an employee so many advantages. better left to the beginners. Prep chores that to do more work that’s When dishwashers see their coworkers move up my dishwashers do include peeling turnips and different from their day- and vice-versa, it’s infectious. Better pay also con- asparagus, washing lettuce, and shelling and to-day duties isn’t easy. tributes to a contagious positive attitude, all of which deveining shrimp. Every kitchen is different, so take It’s even harder when makes the entire kitchen run more successfully. some time to figure out what your dish crew can the worker earns around That said, it’s important to clearly communicate accomplish with your tutelage. If you’re one of those minimum wage. But the trajectory. Make sure your dish crew under- chefs who would never buy peeled garlic, leave it to here’s the carrot: taking stands that if they listen, learn and apply the skills your dish crew. on more responsibilities you’ve taught, they will have the opportunity to Growth from within helps ensure consistency prepares the dishwasher be promoted. because lessons learned the right way, the first time to move up the ladder, tend to stick versus breaking bad habits acquired leads to higher pay Prep the Dishwasher in some other hash house. When prep cooks make and creates a work The concept of teaching dishwashers to prep mistakes, everyone else on the line slows down and environment that proves is straightforward. Your kitchen will run more costs you money. hard work pays off. efficiently if the more talented, higher paid

52 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 53 Training dishwashers to take on other roles such as chopping herbs can lead to higher pay and better overall kitchen morale.

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Get Out the Knife get off on crapping all over their employees when DISHWASHERS Start with basic mirepoix prep for stock, they make mistakes. This may work for certain high- picking and chopping herbs, letting them get a wattage celebrity chefs, but for most of us, it just ARE feel for a knife. Gradually add dicing and slicing reinforces an unstable kitchen. to their repertoire. At pre-shit, make a point of recognizing good work ESSENTIAL As dishwashers gain confidence, introduce in front of other staff members. different shapes to the mix, such as a julienne or Training dishwashers to do more than handle TO YOUR chiffonade cut. Like any employee, the smart and the dish tank is no different from cross-training ambitious ones will show themselves. Not every cooks on every station: there are no short cuts and OVERALL dishwasher can or wants to move up. Dishwashers mentoring takes time. SUCCESS who resist can continue to peel vegetables and pick Poor performance is on you. The payoff, however, herbs. Invest in the cat that shines, which won’t take is less stress, a kitchen that runs smoother and a AND YOU’LL long to figure out. Then schedule a few hours a week crew that feels good about coming to work. That on the prep roster for your new star. dishwasher you spent time teaching just may SEE THE become your next sous chef—or at the very least, cut Lay on the Praise the likelihood of you working the dish station. n BENEFITS Aside from telling whiny cooks, “Don’t make your problem my problem—figure it out,” I like to catch Michael Tsonton has been a working chef for more TOUCH workers doing things right and complimenting them. than 20 years. Follow him on Twitter @ChefTsonton. Our business is known for power-hungry chefs who EVERYONE.”

54 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FOOD FANATIC ROAD TRIP! Get a mouthful from our resident experts SET THE B&G Oysters and The Butcher Shop. In fact, you THE HIGHLIGHTS could make it an All About Lynch trip, checking RECORD out each of her restaurants, including Menton, her award-winning French-Italian hybrid. You’ll emerge with a good sense of what it looks like to run five STRAIGHT Abe & Abe & Louie’s restaurants and a catering business. Louie’s Did you think Boston could serve up all that surf In recent years, some of the most notable without turf? The city has no shortage of steakhouse restaurants have opened in neighboring Boston BOSTON CREAM PIE but this one is among the most revered and lives up to its stellar service and straightforward takes on seafood cities, Cambridge and Somerville. Take lessons in The official dessert of Oy Yah and meat. Takes notes. comfort food at Highland Kitchen, find proof that a the state debuted at the little bit of everything works at Juliet and discover Parker House Hotel (Now solid takes on localized Mexican and Italian at La the Omni Parker House Brewster’s Fish House Respite from the traffic and the walk-up clam shakes, Hotel) and has no traits Brasa and Fat Hen, all in Somerville. this longtime local and dependable restaurant serves Should your visit to Boston includes the Cape (aka that warrant it pie. It’s up New England favorites with of-the-moment Cape Cod), it’s worth checking out concepts that yellow cake with pastry ingredients. know how to maximize tourism season. Twenty- cream and chocolate glaze. Eight Atlantic in Harwich, Massachusetts offers The exact year of its debut Oy Ya expansive views of Cape Cod Bay that never tire no is disputed but the dessert Tim and Nancy Cushman remain one of the most matter the time of year while the nightly affordable for sure has been around underrated operatorsin the country, despite awards, tasting menus at Clean Slate Eatery in West Dennis since the late 1800s. two New York City restaurans and an izakaya concept, has locals booking the next reservation right after Hojoko, in the Fenway neighborhood. Deft execution and unwavering attention to detail are traits likely to their meal. impress any chef. If you can maintain a steady clientele of locals CHOWDER during the off-season, you’ve got to be doing This always means clam Little Donkey something right. n and it’s never thick. You The menu is a compilation of two accomplished chefs— can taste the ocean. Ken Oringer and Jamie Bisssonnette—determined not Shepard to be hemmed in by culinary borders. It can be done. LOBSTER ROLLS Shepard Traditionalists toss the Imagine two restaurant veterans James Beard award- Boston meat lightly with little more winning chef Susan Regis and Hi-Rise Bread Company ❱ EVERY CITY HAS ITS ICONIC FOODS that all industry pros should try. than mayonnaise. Other founder Rene Becker. Then imagine a French take on For Boston and the surrounding area, that means plenty of chowder, lobster, New Englanders dress it a New England restaurant that Julia Child would have steamers (a.k.a. “chow-dah,” “lob-stah” and “steam-ahs”) if you want to sound with warm butter. The bun appreciated and you’ve nailed this much-acclaimed restaurant in Cambridge. local), scrod, cod, and whole-belly fried clams. is always top loading, both But to optimize your visit, you’ll need to maximize your time and appetite to sides brushed with salted inspire your business. We’re here to help. butter and toasted on the Union Oyster House Tourist trap? Definitely. But it gets props for being the flattop. If the roll has grill Seafood will always dominate the conversation in Beantown. Even after 49 longest operating restaurant in the country. The next years and 34 locations, Legal Seafood remains a dependable Massachusetts marks, you’re dealing with time one of your cooks complains about cooking the staple for clam chowder, lobster rolls, and fried clams. Now at 34 locations, it an amateur. same dish for the umpteenth time, just say 1826, the also means that no matter where you are in Boston, an outpost is likely nearby. FOOD FANATIC year this restaurant first began serving traditional New Fresh and simple typically prevail. If you’re unsure about a lobster roll lightly England fare. dressed in mayonnaise over one tossed in clarified butter, order both. Like true native New Englanders, Food Fanatics STEAMERS But if the sky is clear and the temperature is warm, hightail it north to Chefs Martha Leahy and Christopher Kube Anything other than Waypoint Winthrop and knockout your seafood fix at Belle Isle Seafood. Along with solid live and die by the seasons, which means there’s an Ipswich clam is an Michael Scelfo, who made a name for himself with Alden sea critters, this no-frills, cash-only joint has ample outdoor seating and some of always room for ice cream and crispy seafood. imposter. This appetizer & Harlow, proves that running a second Cambridge the best views of the city about 2.5 miles north of Logan International Airport. arrives at the table piled restaurant that’s a 10-minute walk from his first one helps with being on point as in Waypoint. Casual and Follow on high with a side of clam Several neighborhoods will draw you in, notably Chinatown for dim sum sleek, the restaurant offers coastal fare like uni bucatini (China Pearl is your best bet), the North End for Italian and Newbury Street for Twitter for broth to rinse residual more tips. with smoked egg yolk and pecorino as well as locally high-end shoppers. Boston’s restaurant scene first made waves 15 years ago in sand and clarified butter raised lamb shoulder, anchovy, marrow beans and the South End, when the neighborhood gentrified and Barbara Lynch opened @MarthaLeahy / @ChristopherKube for dipping. pickled lemons. ILLUSTRATION BY TIM MARRS ILLUSTRATION

56 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 57 MONEY & SENSE

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Restaurant Operator’s SURVIVAL

GUIDEReview and repeat these time-proven tactics to improve longevity BY PETER GIANOPULOS PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR

FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 59 Find ways to use restuarant space for every part of the day.

2. Party Like It’s 2017 3. Give Kids Real Service, Not Too many operators fail to consider Lip Service the importance of a restaurant’s vibe Teens with their friends and kids with and the social aspects of dining. Use it parents in tow are your future customers to attract customers, say Jonathan Segal (see story on Gen Z diners, page XX), and Celeste Fierro, the leadership behind which means it’s vital to treat children LAST SEEN New York-based The One Group, a lifestyle like “princes and princess,” says Andrea Eleven Madison Park is closing its New hospitality company with a global portfolio Anthony, owner of Lobster Roll Restaurant York City restaurant this summer to of restaurants. in Amagansett, New York. renovate the kitchen and dining room For example, build or refocus your Seriously rebuild the kid’s menus with and opening a casual satellite location restaurant around the bar where the healthier options that impress parents and on Long Island in the interim. energy is contagious. Small alterations little ones, says Anthony. Go with global can also yield major dividends. Swap out flavors, such as Japanese crispy chicken the set playlist for a DJ who will read the instead of chicken tenders or protein room and play music appropriate for that charged grains like quinoa as sides instead 6. Make the Space Count night’s customers. of mashed potatoes. Set aside marketing Since you’re paying rent and utilities Playing up the vibe translates into dollars for meaningful freebies, not just 5. Get A Face Lift whether the business is opened or closed, 1. Up Your Social Game higher bar tabs and check averages. crayons and coloring placemats. Some of the country’s most celebrated it makes sense that more dinner-only ❱ A STORYLINE Social media is a push-pull medium, so Even changing the lighting can make a and longstanding successful restaurants restaurants are extending service hours. collect as much information as you difference to establish an energetic mood. have remodeled, including the French Operators should look for ways to use dispense. “You want customers to tell their friends 4. Be a Smart Penny Pincher Laundry in Yountville, California and their space every minute of the day, says JUST LIKE Consider Spoons Bar & Grill in Santa that they had more than great food,” says Stop resisting digital inventory tools, the Union Square Cafe in New York City. Josh Wolkon, owner of the Secret Sauce Ana, California, which puts its audience Segal. “You want them to say they had which can fit all types of operations, Operators agree that upping your game restaurant group in Denver. Consider YOURS IS to work. In one instance, the restaurant an amazing experience. Guests will come including mom and pop restaurants. while you’re on top is a smart pre-emptive offering restaurant buyouts and private provided 10 percent-off deals to any back to places that they associate with Depending on the software, food inventory, move, but changes don’t need to be multi- events when the restaurant is closed, PLAYING OUT customer who shared a mobile number. special memories.” procurement, menu planning, accounting million dollar undertakings. as well as dedicating staff and space When nights are slow, the restaurant sends Working the room, however, only works and other needs are consolidated into Refinishing floors, repainting walls for catering alerts on specials. The tactic has turned if staff is trained to identify the right one system and linked to suppliers. When and refurbishing bathrooms can pay ACROSS THE slow shifts into profitable ones and has approach. A couple on a date should be inventory levels wane, alerts pop-up with dividends in attitude alone. Renovations incentivized regulars to tap into the social treated differently than a group of women the option for one-click ordering. can be packaged with menu promotions 7. Reboot the Basics COUNTRY. channels, resulting in a 400 percent jump on a night-out. Cost savings can be significant. to alert regulars to revisit and attract new Revisiting the basics like a continuous Your business has cheated death, in Instagram followers. Operators can expect a 52 percent drop customers to quickly recoup costs. loop is crucial for success, says John T. stretching past the five-year mortality Gina Stefani, scion of Stafani Restaurant in food waste and an 87 percent decrease Before scanning your dining room for Bettin, CEO of Tavistock Restaurant marker that claims 70 percent of Group in Chicago, makes it a priority in purchasing errors, according BlueCart, updates, think about the current setup. Collection. As elementary as it sounds, the restaurants, according to the National to personally respond to social media a Washington D.C., -based inventory If you offer views into a disorganized or importance of “hot food hot, cold food cold, Restaurant Association. posts about her restaurant, Mad Social. software company. messy kitchen, block off the area or you’ll served in a timely manner,” matters as well But no sigh of relief for you; only fear Followers appreciate the effort and feel When margins are so thin, even the turn off customers, says Eric McBride as the ABCs of service, such as genuine stoked by rising food costs, slimmer a personal connection, which she views smallest changes make a difference, says of the McBride Company, a restaurant greetings and farewells. margins and government uncertainty as the digital equivalent of visiting a YOU WANT CUSTOMERS Ken Halberg, owner and managing partner design firm. Bettin expects his managers to walk and surrounding immigrants who are the customer’s table. “I could pay someone to of H2 Hospitality in New York, which Renovations that invite walk-ins monitor the floor and interact with guests backbone of the industry. Competition is do it,” says Stefani. “but I want them to TO TELL THEIR FRIENDS include Harding’s. Keeping the circulation during warmer seasons can work magic, while supporting their staff. Staff are increasing which means millennials, the know it’s me responding.” of silverware to a minimum can, for McBride says. Replacing the façade of trained to know the menu inside and out, largest demographic since baby boomers, Regular Instagram worthy dishes can THAT THEY HAD MORE instance, pay dividends. When silverware your restaurant with folding windows so that they can drive up check averages will need a compelling reason to revisit generate instant buzz, but if your photos is abundance in the dining room, pieces that turn the area into a patio will draw with appropriate recommendations. He your restaurant when new ones seem to be aren’t resonating, change tactics. Enlist THAN GREAT FOOD, YOU tend to get lost. But when the amount is customers. Sometimes, it’s just a matter of lives by the mantra: “hire slowly, fire opening all the time. staff to be the eyes and ears on the digital reduced and servers are responsible for it, opening windows or strategically placing quickly.” Hire on personality, he says, and Is it even possible for today’s restaurants landscape. Managers at Houston-based WANT THEM TO SAY they monitor tables vigilantly and return televisions to face the street. “Often you can train the rest. n to reach a decade milestone, let alone a Peli Peli restaurants are responsible for silverware to the kitchen at more regular operators, especially independents, should quarter-century one? Longtime operators reading online reviews. They look for THEY HAD AN AMAZING intervals. As a result, fewer pieces are lost, think less in terms of themes and more in Peter Gianopulos is an adjunct professor and industry experts nod yes, but unlike patterns of complaints, just as they do Halberg says. Cost savings can also be terms of lifestyles,” says McBride. “The key and critic for Chicago Magazine who’s the past, it requires a multifaceted when surveying diners on the floor, owner EXPERIENCE.” found in cleaning supplies, he says, which question is, “What kind of lifestyle do you been reporting on the restaurant industry approach outlined here. Thomas Nguyen says. —Jonathan Segal, The One Group should not be over 1 percent of revenue. want your space to project?” for 15 years.

60 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 61 Ensuring that your shrimp is fresh from the Gulf of Mexico and not Thailand or San Marzano tomatoes (opposite page) are genuine comes down to research and good IM relationships with vendors. POS TERS RE VEAL

EquipED yourself with knowledge and vigilance BY JODI HELMER

62 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 63 Grass-fed or not? Ask questions and keep a watchful eye. IMPOSTERS To protect against imposters, Seymour partnered REVEALED with a local importer, making it clear that the Some foods are more product carried the Protected Designation of Origin WHAT IS susceptible to being (PDO) label. FOOD FRAUD? impersonated than The European Union label ensures that all aspects The U.S. Food and Drug others. These five foods of production, processing and preparation originate Administration defines food account for the highest in a specific region. PDO labeling applies to a range fraud as “The fraudulent, number of reported cases of imported products, from olive oil and cheese to intentional substitution or of fraud, according to a sausage and pasta. addition of a substance in a Congressional Research For seafood, David Lucarelli purchases fish with product for the purpose of Service report. gill tags. “Gill tags are difficult to counterfeit,” says increasing the apparent value Lucarelli, the executive chef at The Cowfish Sushi of the product or reducing the OLIVE OIL Burger Bar based in Charlotte, North Carolina. cost of its production.” This kitchen staple The tags help ensure that the tuna is tuna and the shows up diluted with snapper is not rockfish—an important safeguard cheaper oils, such as palm, against an increasing amount of bait and switch. A sunflower, vegetable or no 2017 University of California, Los Angeles report olive oil at all. found that 47 percent of sushi served in area restaurants was mislabeled. HONEY JUST BECAUSE A FOOD HAS The natural sweetener is ❱ UNDERSTAND THE LIMITATIONS often cut with cheaper If restaurant’s price points make it difficult to A CERTAIN LABEL DOESN’T alternatives like high budget for USDA prime cuts of beef, wild-caught fructose corn syrup. salmon, heirloom vegetables and artisan maple syrup, MEAN IT’LL BE GOOD. FOCUS FDA guidelines prohibits focus on making great dishes with more affordable labeling of versions that ingredients. Avoid foods most frequently associated ON MAKING THE BEST DISHES are not 100 percent honey. with fraudulent claims or limit the ones that come with safeguards to arrive at a better price point. YOU CAN RATHER THAN GOING SAFFRON “Just because a food has a certain label doesn’t The most expensive spice mean it’ll be good,” says Lucarelli. “Focus on making DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE in the world might contain the best dishes you can rather than going down the UST ABOUT EVERY MENU offers fertile ground place an order online (from an unknown source)and added barium sulfate, rabbit hole of mislabeling.” for imposters, from the lower-cost tilapia posing as it shows up on a truck the next day and gets wheeled OF MISLABELING.” borax, sandalwood dust higher-priced grouper to the honey labeled as pure into the kitchen.” —David Lucarelli, executive chef at The Cowfish Sushi Burger Bar and glycerin. A yellow ❱ TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS but laced with high fructose corn syrup. And what Developing relationships with all suppliers, from dye called tartrazine is A trained palate helps. Sampling products like about the imported hothouse tomatoes passing national foodservice distributors to farmers and often used to give fakes a extra virgin olive oil, honey, coffee and other themselves off as local heirloom varieties? specialty food purveyors, provides opportunities to ❱ LEAVE THE RESTAURANT golden color. fraudulent-prone foods helps determine if the “Food fraud is a major problem,” says Chris Coleman, ask questions directly and increases the likelihood Chef-owner Gregory Seymour headed to local ingredient is the real deal. executive chef of Stoke in Charlotte, North Carolina. the purchases will meet expectations. farms when he began sourcing pork, milk and ORANGE JUICE Lucarelli recommends trying the ingredient Food falsehoods cost the industry up to $15 Scheduling meetings can be inconvenient and a tomatoes for house-made fennel sausage, mozzarella One of the most oft- before purchasing. “You can’t source and serve the billion each year, taking up to 15 percent out of time suck, Coleman admits, but there’s no substitute and tomato sauce at Pizzeria Gregario, a 50-seat reported fraudulent foods, best products without trying them,” he says. annual restaurant sales, according to the Grocery for developing trust through face-to-face interactions. restaurant in Safety Harbor, Florida. orange juice can be Instinct is essential for recognizing red flags in Manufacturers Association. No one wants to get “People trust me to be transparent about what diluted with juices from labeling and price. For example, products with a conned by shady suppliers offering false information ❱ PASS ON PARTS I’m putting on their plates and I have to do the due other less desirable fruits longer-than-expected shelf life might be cut with about the provenance of an ingredient or even worse, Purchasing whole fish makes it harder to pass off diligence to make sure the ingredients are the real or bulked up with additives preservatives. Rock bottom pricing on premium a fraudulent or deceptive claim that damages your pangasius or king mackerel as grouper and, while deal,” Seymour says. like corn syrup. products are almost always a sign of a fake. Taking restaurant’s reputation. ground coffee can be cut with leaves or roasted corn, Avoid those who are reluctant, however, “to throw the initiative to protect against food fraud is about Protect yourself by staying vigilant with these whole coffee beans cannot be adulterated. open the pasture gates,” he says. FISH more than watching out for the bottom line. common sense strategies. “Buying whole products like fish or primals is “Farmers who are doing the right thing will want Fakes include escolar “The dining public is more informed than ever a better way to gauge freshness and quality and to show it off.” sold as tuna and farmed and asking a lot of questions,” says Coleman. ❱ DEVELOP RELATIONSHIPS prevents tampering,” Coleman says. But remember species marketed as wild “Getting caught committing fraud can cost a The importance of chef-supplier relationships is a the trade-off of balancing the labor required to ❱ LOOK FOR SAFEGUARDS caught fish. An Oceana restaurant its reputation.” n tried-and-true adage that bears repeating. breakdown large animals and scaling fish versus When Pizzeria Gregario opened in 2013, Seymour study found that nearly 60 “You have to buy from people you know and trust,” already prepped parts. worried that the olive oil labeled “Product of Italy” percent of “tuna” was not Jodi Helmer is a North Carolina-based journalist and says Coleman. “It’s a lot easier to be misled when you might be made with olives from other countries. tuna at all. beekeeper. She would never eat (or sell) fake honey.

64 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 65 iHELP Be efficient and tech savvy at the same time I WANT IT NOW YOUR QUICK-HIT GUIDE TO CHOOSING AN ON-DEMAND DELIVERY SERVICE CAVIAR GRUBHUB POSTMATES UBEREATS YELP EAT24 CHOWNOW

Best For: Restaurants of all sizes Restaurants with Any merchant who Menu variety and Restaurants that Operators that build ­—including those with existing delivery capa- wants to provide on- speedy and reliable want to leverage their business from customer more complex menus. bilities, or restaurants demand delivery to delivery. Yelp reviews. loyalty and want Make Out that want to offer de- their customers. consistency of its brand. livery through external delivery capabilities.

Standout Partners directly with Industry leader due Courier of food App uses advanced tech Restaurants set menu Customized app With Factor: every restaurant on its to its size, scope and and goods. to tap into vast network prices, delivery fees and for onine ordering. platform and performs experience. of Uber drivers to deliver service areas, allowing Restaurateur owns the delivery tests to deter- faster than competitors. greater freedom with relationship with the mine which dishes are Also leverages vast costs and profits. customer. Carry Out suitable for carryout. data to provide insights and analytics tools On-demand delivery is ready to be to operators. your new cash cow Platform Yes Yes, Grubhub currently Yes; has tens of Yes No Yes, through UberRush BY PETER GIANOPULOS Provides offers delivery capa- thousands of walkers, PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANK LAWLOR Drivers? bilites in nearly 70 riders and drivers markets nationwide. making deliveries in 44 U.S. markets.

❱ THE AGE OF ON-DEMAND DINING—the Cost to Varies based on terms Grubhub takes a small Commission taken on Service fee based on Commission taken on Monthly subscription. ability to hail a meal as easily as a car share service— Restaurant: of the partnership. percentage of each each sale. percentage of sales. each order. order that the platform has arrived, creating an indispensable revenue tool. sends the restaurant’s Some 37 percent of restaurants offer online way. ordering, according to the National Restaurant Association (NRA). It’s smart business considering Cost to Based on distance, not Restaurant sets delivery $3.99 per order or Varies by market. Restaurant sets Restaurant determines. that 70 percent of foot traffic will happen outside of Custumer: size of order. fee and is transparent $9.99 monthly sub- delivery fee. restaurants by 2020, says the NRA. to the customer—even scription fee (unlimited “For some consumers, especially in urban prior to checkout. subscription) for orders over $25; $2.99 fee in markets, time is valuable enough that they are New York and Los willing to pay the delivery fees to get their food Angeles. Service where they want it, when they want it,” says Darren fees are waived for Tristano, president of industry research firm subscribers. Out-of- Technomic. network customers pay In the last few years, on-demand services have according to distance. grown to capitalize on the seismic shift in the way consumers, particularly younger diners, use restaurants. The services, which provide an online Roi: Thanks to longstanding Small restaurants using On average, online Restaurants increase Turn millions of Yelp Restaurant benefits platform for ordering with and without a delivery % relationships with thou- Grubhub saw a revenue orders quadruple. sales, lower marketing visitors into paying from access through option, tout their ability to expand a restaurant’s sands of restaurants, increase of 50 percent. costs and hire new customers. Facebook and customer reach and increase delivery sales as a result. understands the art of employees to capitalize loyalty. foodservice. on UberEATS demand. Check out our roundup of leading on-demand Find more details on choosing and platforms. Dig around and you’ll find plenty of Bonuses: Performs photo shoots Restaurants that use Expanding on-demand Expands reach for Email, phone and 24- Operators can create using on-demand others not mentioned here offering similar services, for each dish and Grubhub grow their delivery for clothing, late-night concepts; hour live chat support its own promotions and ordering platforms such Olo and DoorDash. offers pickup in addition monthly takeout home goods and other helps restaurants gain for customers and reward loyalty. exclusively at For more details on the platforms mentioned here to delivery. revenue by 30 percent. items allows operators better access to their restaurants. FoodFanatics.com including their differences (they’re all aggregators of restaurant traffic will Revenue growth by res- to reach a wider variety customers. UberEATS except for ChowNow which is a white label.) and taurants using Grubhub of customers. team also works with insight from operators who have banked in on- 70 was 6x those without. operators interested in be off-premise in 3 years. delivery-only concepts. demand delivery, visit FoodFanatics.com. n —National Restaurant Association Website trycaviar.com get.grubhub.com postmates.com ubereats.com eat24hours.com chownow.com

66 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 PR MACHINE Sharp ideas to get butts in seats

Can You Create New Buzz? If the chance to promote your new restau- rant is over, do something different. Can PR Launching a refreshed happy hour or add- ing a twist to an existing promotion can be just enough to get the buzz going and media in the door to see all the other cool things Save You? your restaurant has going for it. Ask yourself these hard questions to decide your restaurant’s fate Does the Concept Fit a Label? BY ANDREW FREEMAN AND Media and guests need to be able to CANDACE MCDONALD categorize restaurants so they can easily remember them. Asking “where do you fit in Zagat” is a simple exercise to define No matter what your concept or price yourself. While many restaurants take ❱ A HIGHLY SUCCESSFUL RESTAURANT point may be, it is essential to clearly elements from different ethnic cuisines starts to see sales decline. Perhaps increased identify what makes you different so that or blend various dining environments, it’s competition is the culprit or a wildcard menu the message resonates. important to have a quick definition. ADVERTISEMENT special designed to attract new customers Nobody creates lists of “Best Thai meets but only ended up confusing regulars. This Is the Location In Sync? Vietnamese meets California with a touch is usually when our public relations agency Whether your restaurant is a neighborhood of French,” so don’t buck the category gets the call: Help! We need PR. gem or a culinary destination, location concept. Make sure that staff is aware and Here’s the hard truth: that PR life jacket always impacts the communications strat- can describe the restaurant in the same way. PAGE 69 will never help in the long run. A solid PR egy. We recently worked with a restaurant firm with great media relationships can that seemed to have everything going for What’s the Final Consideration? put an ailing restaurant in the spotlight, it, yet seats were empty. Digging deeper, we Sometimes a sinking ship can’t be saved. but when the buzz wears off, you’re back to realized that the restaurant was a foodie PR can’t help a restaurant that is out of where you started. destination in a neighborhood that didn’t touch with what guests want or solve a bad To turn media hits and promotions into give culinary matters a second thought. revenue model. dollar signs, take a hard look at the business To appeal to the neighborhood and At one concept that offered live music, to understand where the guests are and attract new regulars, we highlighted for example, more people turned out why they aren’t coming in. Asking yourself the more casual bar menu as well as the for the music than the food. And guests these questions will help. craveable, every day types of dishes. who did come for the food couldn’t enjoy Implementing a frequent dining program their dinner because the music was too Do You Have a Story to Tell? and connecting to local businesses also loud. Either way, the show portion of the Consider the following: Everyone has created stronger ties to the area. concept meant that the restaurant wasn’t a story—what’s yours? To stand out, turning tables more than once a night, you must give guests a reason to dine at Are You Serving What Diners Want? killing their profits. your restaurant. A celebrity chef offers a menu of Perhaps the biggest issue PR can’t fix is a With our high-end steakhouse client, authentic Neapolitan pizzas, pastas and bad service experience or food that under- we found that their best guests dined delicious salads, but the neighborhood delivers on expectations. PR can get people at the restaurant because of how they expected a red sauce Italian restaurant in the door, but it’s up to the operations felt walking into the restaurant. VIP with traditional Americanized pizza. So team to turn them into loyal guests. n treatment was standard; staff recognized how do you balance what the guest wants them. Customers also enjoyed the with the artistry of a chef? Provide balance Andrew Freeman is president of Andrew luxe setting and appreciated the care to the menu. In this case, the chef included Freeman & Co. an innovative hospitality staffed showed, accommodating dietary his best version of those traditional classics consulting agency based in San Francisco. preferences and needs. This became a core such as a more familiar cheese pizza and Candace MacDonald is director of concept part of the PR strategy. spaghetti and meatballs. strategies for the agency.

68 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 DEAR FOOD FANATIC Seasoned advice on the front and back of the house

What can I do about rising costs of seafood and the higher prices for organic foods? Farm to table is not a fad but a standard in the industry. You can come out ahead by structuring a seasonal menu when locally grown food offers the best prices. The same goes for seafood. Certain types of seafood are priced better at various time of the year. You can also lower costs by purchasing less popular fish.

Q. I will be opening another location of my restaurant and want to avoid the headaches I had ADVERTISEMENT with some of the equipment with my original place. When the equipment started acting up, it was tough getting help or anyone to own up. Any suggestions? A. This is when customer service becomes an important determining factor. Prior to purchasing or PAGE 71 leasing, check for extended warranties as well as the manufacturer’s record for customer service. See if the equipment or supply company offers help from its own You need a thorough and detailed plan that documents in-house specialists, which can be an invaluable tool to every stage of prep, from receiving to plating. You can help facilitate repairs. It’s always worth checking online find HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points) to see if common problems have been discussed in guidelines and software online to help you. group chats. They could come in handy later. FOOD FANATIC Q. Business is slow during the really hot months in Matthew Dean is a Q. I’m a big believer in staff training but I can see the South. What can we do to drum up sales? the staff is looking bored. What are some ways to A. Give locals a discount for coming in and call the Food Fanatics chef get them interested? promotion something fun, such as “Loco for Locals” (if for US Foods from A. Nothing gets staff more excited that freebies and tourists comment on this, offer them the discount as Streator, Illinois, with a choice shifts. Assign each worker a topic that he or she well as long as they pledge to be a local. The point is to passion for teaching. thinks everyone could improve upon and comes up with make it fun.). Offer special pricing for bestsellers with the ideas. If staff looks at you blankly, throw ideas on paper, biggest profit margins and make sure to take a hard look toss them in a bowl and let them choose. The worker at labor to ensure that all the profitability numbers align. who leads the training gets rewarded with a choice shift or a comp meal to enjoy on a day off. Q. To increase sales, we’re doing more private dining and off-premise catering. But we want to Q. I may be a latecomer to sous vide but that control labor costs. Any ideas? doesn’t mean the local health department is more A. Think about what you are known for and what cooperative. Our local officials don’t think the you do well and decide which ingredients or products For more tips, follow the you can purchase already prepped to save time and Food Fanatic on Twitter at cooking method is safe. Do I have any recourse? @chefmathu. A. The great thing about jumping on the labor. Crunch the numbers and see what works best for bandwagon later is the trail has already been blazed. your operations n

Got a question for the Food Fanatics? Send your challenges, comments and suggestions to [email protected].

70 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 Benefits: Doing away with the cover- your-tats rule reinforces the image of your staff’s creativity and authenticity, ideas that resonate with millennials. It’s How individual a boon for a brand such as Crushed Red that emphasizes artisan-made items and create-your-own combinations. “We want to give off the experience to our guest that our teams are all creative,” says Candace staff style can LaRocca, director of brand experience for Crushed Red.

Weird Hair, Don’t Care If you have staffers who want to make a benefit business statement with offbeat hair colors or styles, BY LISA ARNETT look for a way to embrace it and bolster the ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN TODD brand at the same time. At Crushed Red, management has encouraged employees to ❱ A FLEET OF IDENTICAL-LOOKING Tyler Mendoza. “If you have a ring that’s dye their hair to match the tomato-red hue staffers buzzing through the front of the two inches (big) on, you can’t grip glasses,” that’s found on their logo, packaging and house may be a sight of the past. To the joy he says. “If you can’t do your job as well or salad bowls. “We continue to encourage it of employees, more restaurant operators better with it on, then you shouldn’t have and we’ve had a handful of employees take are relaxing dress codes and allowing it on.” us up on it,” Chris LaRocca says. “There individual style to shine. Benefits: Wearing something personal, are brands out there … that they have team “Branding is certainly important, however small, can make staffers feel more members that have tattooed their logo on but the value of a logo diminishes if the like themselves and less like another cog in their arms; we’re not that extreme, but staff isn’t happy wearing the logo or the the wheel. “I think we want our staff to be we’re kind of proud that we’ve got our (red- uniform,” says Suzanne Perry, owner of comfortable in their own skin,” Mendoza haired) folks.” express yourself casual Tampa, Florida-based restaurants says. “Everyone who walks in the door, Benefits: Out-there hair is a conversation Datz and Dough. She says the servers are staff included, should be comfortable. starter between the staffer and the diner, happier now that they no longer wear dated Unique accessories also allow servers to Candace LaRocca says. In many cases, it uniforms that made everyone feel out-of- stand out among a sea of similarly dressed allows staff to form a bond with customers touch with diners. employees, forming a stronger impression and talk about something other than the Allowing room for self-expression can with guests. “My customers like my stores food they’re ordering or serving. foster employee loyalty, bolster your brand because they have personality, and a lot of and resonate with your audience. But that comes from the front-of-house staff Play Dress Up before heading down that road, be sure the themselves,” Perry says. “I want the staff to Holidays and special occasions are look supports your brand. be memorable enough that guests ask for an easy time to let employees get festive. them by name on return visits.” Perry says her staff busts out pirate hats Add an Accessory and corsets to celebrate Gasparilla, Encouraging staffers to customize Show Off Your Ink Tampa’s legendary pirate festival in their uniform with an accessory is a small Tattoos used to be something that January celebrating the legend mythical but effective way for them to show their restaurant operators required employees Spanish pirate Jose Gaspar, who individuality on the job. to cover up. At Crushed Red, a custom salad supposedly operated in Southwest Florida Servers at Dough and Data used to wear and pizza restaurant with locations in in the early 1800s. During the winter a company logo T-shirt and jeans only; Missouri and Colorado, employees all wear holidays, management also encourages Perry now encourages staff to show their black T-shirts with the company logo and staff to wear anything festive from ugly personality with accessories. ”A fun apron? are free to express their individuality and Christmas sweaters to red and green Quirky socks? “We love the playfulness creativity in tattoos, piercings and makeup. tutus. “It is a really fun, staff-organized and so do our guests,” Perry says. “As long as it’s not offensive, we’re cool with initiative,” she says. Servers are free to wear accessories to it,” says Chris LaRocca, co-founder and Benefits: Stand-out silly looks can liven up the traditional black-on-black at CEO. “I think if it’s highly controversial, spur social media buzz from snap- Slightly Toasted, a bakery/bar concept in like a gang sign or political, if we think happy customers. Chicago, as long as it doesn’t interfere with it’s going to damage the brand or cause “The costumes definitely create a fun service or distract diners, says partner controversy, we will draw the line,” he says. atmosphere of camaraderie,” she says. n

72 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 73 Go ahead and add

iceto the

wine.Slushies have moved up from a kitschy craft cocktail fad to full-on summertime staple status as bartenders are now adding bottles of wine to the mix. “Wine slushies are extremely versatile and have tons of flavor,” says Cat Seger, bar manager at urban winery The Infinite Monkey Theorem in Austin, UP THE Texas. “It’s a great summer drink and a nice, soda, fresh fruit, herbs and liqueurs can create an refreshing way to drink wine.” excellent summertime slush. Rose, a varietal that has been riding the Glassware is also an important consideration. summertime trend circuit for the past few years, was Colorful frozen drinks served in traditional or the obvious first pick for many, creating its own buzz stem-less wine glasses, champagne glasses and even dubbed “frose.” Last summer, Chef-partner Kelly mason jars are guaranteed to turn heads—and more Fields added frose to the menu at her New Orleans than the ones you’d think. restaurant Willa Jean after a friend sent a Snapchat The wine slushies became so popular that Seger of her frozen rose. The slushie, called Frose Y’all, often refills the machine multiple times in a single was an instant hit. shift to keep wine slushies flowing. A single batch “I was on a serious rose kick,” says Fields. “I had makes 30 to 40 slushies, taking up to 20 minutes THE BEAUTY rose in the [slushie] machine within the hour.” for the machine to turn the wine and simple syrup SLUSHIEFUN Although lighter summer wines like rose, prosecco mixture into a slushie. With drinks ranging between OF THIS DRINK and fruit wines made from summer fruits like $8 at The Infinite Monkey Theorem and $11 at Willa Frozen wine drinks are having a moment peaches and blackberries are the staples of wine Jean, it stacks up to solid profits. IS ITS slushies; bolder wines can also be turned into frozen Still, reaping the benefits of high-turnover isn’t BY JODI HELMER favorites. At The Infinite Monkey Theorem, Seger without a few pitfalls. Space becomes an issue SIMPLICITY” serves up slushies made with merlot and muscat. for housing large slushie machines, which is why —Chef-partner Kelly Field, Seger experimented with different ratios of wine The Infinite Monkey Theorem rents a margarita Willa Jean, New Orleans, and simple syrup for the right flavor and consistency machine to make its wine slushies. to avoid a watery and overly sweet drink. He prefers The cost to purchase a slushie machine ranges simple syrup over ice because it dilutes the flavor from $800 to upwards of $4,100. Rentals range from Frosé Y’all of the wine less than ice. Her go-to ratio is three to $45 to $400 per month. To keep up with demand and Willa Jean, New Orleans, four ounces of simple syrup in a three-liter pitcher offer multiple flavors, Seger is considering renting a Chef-partner Kelly Fields of wine. second machine this summer for a drier, spicier or ¾ cup chilled rosé When it comes to wine, balance quality and heavier wine for a different flavor profile. 4 cups ice budget-friendly with percentage of product cost and Before you go all in, remember that you don’t need ¼ cup simple syrup the pricing that your customers will tolerate. “You a slushie maker or margarita machine to create wine don’t want high-end rose for this, but you don’t want slushies. A blender works; it’s just not as fast. But if Combine ingredients into the cheap stuff either. The beauty of this drink is its customers are hooked, you might find them coming a blender and mix until Get the recipe simplicity,” Fields says. in year-round like Seger and Fields. smooth. Pour into a wine for this peach Don’t feel limited to wine and simple syrup to “Customers start asking in February when we’re glass and serve with a straw. wine slushie at n Makes 1 serving. FoodFanatics.com. make a solid mix. Sangria or other ingredients like bringing them back,” Seger says.

74 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 FoodFanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 75 BY THE NUMBERS Play these numbers for a bigger payout

THE SCOOP ON 92% People who eat ice cream

Here’sICE the dish CREAMon what should be your favorite frozen asset.

HOME SWEET HOME TOP 10 FASTEST GROWING Average number of ice cream dishes on menus: FAVORITE ICE CREAM FLAVORS ICE CREAM TOPPINGS CASUAL 3 FINE DINING 3.3 13% MIDSCALE 4.4 PUMPKIN FAST CASUAL 5.1 43% CHERRIES QUICK 129% SERVICE 12.4 POMEGRANATE ADVERTISEMENT LEADING ICE CREAM PREPARATIONS 46% 100% SPRINKLES RED VELVET PAGE 77 6% 5% 56% Floats & Sorbets & STRAWBERRIES 9% Sodas Granitas BLACK CHERRY

% 26% 22% 57% HAZELNUT SUNDAES MILKSHAKES 3% 3% NUTS & MALTS Yogurts & Fried Sherberts Ice Cream 71% GRAPE PREMIUM PAYS 59% CARAMEL 57% KIWI 50% 35% Consumers who 34% Consumers 22% Consumers who CANDY PIECES agree that premium willing to pay purchase frozen 43% frozen treats taste more for premium treats that they COOKIES ‘N’ CREAM better than regular frozentreats. consider premium. frozen treats. 75% 42% CHOCOLATE LEMON ANYTIME IS A GOOD TIME FOR ICE CREAM SYRUP 42% 49% 51% 49% CAPPUCCINO COOKIE PIECES

Percentage Percentage of consumers of consumers *Over the past five years eating frozen treats eating frozen treats as a snack. after a meal. Sources: Mintel, Datassential Menu Trends and Technomic MenuMonitor. ILLUSTRATION BY POP CHART LAB CHART POP BY ILLUSTRATION

76 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2017 ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 4