quality in the European Union

The European Union here has been steady Rice production European demand for cereals is almost self-sufficient T and cereal-based products and trade in terms of rice volumes for human consumption, but rice is in Europe produced, but is far from an exception. Its share of the market is rising at the same rate as in USA. Rice is grown in 10 European meeting needs for high countries, along w ith the Russian For 25 years, rice consumption has Federation and Ukraine. According quality varieties. been expanding beyond the to FAO statistics (1993), rice Round- and medium-grain traditional rice-growing areas, production in this whole zone was especially in Africa and Europe. 3.17 million t/annum in 1992, or , which generally become soft when cooked, are mainly produced in the European Union, while the greatest demand Russian Federation

is for long- and slender- 'Germany Ireland grain rices that remain Lu^émWç Ukraine firm when cooked. lungary. France Production options should Romania _&ç-Yuí|osl thus be adjusted, with in-depth research on varieties most preferred by consumers and the M oroa food industry.

J. FAURE CIRAD-CA, BP 5035, 34032 Montpellier Cedex 1, France

F. M A Z A U D ] Rice-producing countries •'/// European Union countries AGS-PFL, FAO, Via delle Terme di Caracalla, Rome, Italy Figure 1. Rice-producing countries in Europe and the Mediterranean region.

Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1995 0 .6% of world production, which However, there is a marked deficit of was estimated at 528 million t for the slender long-grain indica rice, gene­ same year (Table 1 ; Figure 1 ). rally grown in the tropics, due to the high domestic market demand. There are five rice-producing European Union thus exports about countries in the European Union 400 0001 and imports about 600 0001 (EU): Italy (59% of the EU output), of equivalent. Half of the Spain (25%), France (5.5%), Portugal imports are husked (i.e. "cargo") (5%) and Greece (4.5%). In 1992, indica varieties from USA (53%), they produced 2.21 million t of Thailand (15%), India/Pakistan (14%) paddy rice, equivalent to about and Surinam. The other half is made 1 .46 million t of white rice, on up of rice from various origins that 361 000 ha of rice cropland. is re-exported after milling or European Union, where annual whitening. EU imports represent 4% consumption is estimated to be of the 15 million t world rice trade. 1.5 million t of white rice equivalent, has an apparent mean annual Finally, the needs of the three self-sufficiency rate of 85-90% for rice countries — Austria, Finland and production/consumption. In fact, Sweden — that are to join the EU in there is excess production of round- 1997, and of Norway, are estimated and medium-grain rice, which are tra­ at 140 000 t of white rice equivalent ditional crops and represent 83%‘of (Table 2). The rice production sector the overall European production. in Europe, under present conditions, will only be able to partially meet this increased demand with European Table 1. Paddy rice production in Europe and the Mediterranean countries japónica varieties. This means that in 1992 (FAO, 1993). there will be more imports of Country Area Yield Production long-grain indica varieties, thus (1 000 ha) (t/ha) (1 000 t) further increasing the EU deficit. France 24 5.3 125 Greece 14 7.0 101 Italy 216 6.0 1 314 Portugal 21 5.2 110 European Union Spain 86 6.5 554 TOTAL European Union 361 6.1 2 214 consumption Albania 1 0.5 1 patterns Bulgaria 5 2.5 11 Hungary 5 3.11 15 The increase in rice consumption Romania 16 2.4 39 and changing habits are part of a Yugoslavia, SFR --- Macedonia, FR 8 5.0 43 general dietary diversification trend TOTAL Europe 397 5.6 2 323 that has been noted in Europe.

Russian Federation 265 2.8 754 Ukraine 24 3.8 92 Changing food habits Egypt 511 7.6 3 910 Morocco 7 3.0 22 Rice formerly had a staple food status, but only w ithin producing regions, and was considered as a luxury dessert product elsewhere. Table 2. Estimate of 1993-1994 imports of white rice equivalent by future European Union members and Norway (source: Marchés rizicoles Hebdo n° 412). It is now of interest for diversifying conventional diets. Consumption Country Population Imports Consumption patterns have changed; there is (1 000 inhabitants) (1 000 t) per capita increasing consumer demand for (kg/year) high quality varieties and rice dishes, Austria 7.7 66.7 8.7 with a willingness to pay more Finland 5.0 20.9 4.2 for these products. Traders once Sweden 8.5 39.6 4.7 classified rice as a product with Norway 4.2 12.0 2.8 no market potential, whereas it is TOTAL 25.4 139.2 5.5 now considered as a dynamic

Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1 995 rice market

Table 3. Mean per capita consumption of white rice equivalent in European Union easy-to-cook product. Rice is a food from 1970 to 1990 (kg/person/year). in itself, of considerable interest for (Source: OECD, CEC, Eurostat, from CHATAIGNIER, 1991 ). manufacturers seeking new food Country 1970 1980 1990 Annual increase products. (%) relative to 1970 There are no longer clearcut diffe­ United Kingdom 1.4 3.3 3.7 8.2 rences in consumption patterns Germany 1.6 2.0 3.4 5.6 between southern Europe (rice Ireland 1.0 2.1 1.8 4.0 producers) and northern Europe (rice Belgium importers). The increased rice + Luxemburg 1.6 4.2 3.5 5.9 consumption in the North corresponds Netherlands 3.0 3.5 5.1 3.5 to lower potato and cooked vegetable Denmark 1.6 2.1 2.7 3.4 consum ption. Rice, as pasta, is France 2.5 3.7 4.1 3.2 Italy 3.9 4.6 5.7 2.4 thus a supplementary source of Spain - 6.3 6.3 - carbohydrates and a high energy food. Portugal - 15.7 15.1 - Rice cooking methods can differ Greece - 5.2 5.1 - between regions and depend on the rice dish prepared. They are also currently changing with the Indica or japónica? increasing consumption of long- grain indica rices. Round- and Six groups of Asian cultivated rice () have been characterized using medium-grain japónica rices are molecular markers (GLASZMANN et al., 1984). Japónica and indica are the most generally used in the preparation of important of these groups. The four other groups are not as well known but scientists various meals and soups in southern and agriculture and food industries are now taking an interest in them for their special European rice-producing regions qualities (wild and aromatic rices), i.e. aus, sadri, and two groups of floating where these varieties grow well. For rices from India and Bangladesh. instance, bulky long-grain japónica varieties produced in Italy are used Indica group for preparing . The indica group includes tropical rices that are generally grown under aquatic conditions in Asia. They have often been considered as unsuitable for modern Swelling of rice after cooking is agriculture because of their poor response to high fertilizer input. Nevertheless, the considered very important and the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) has extended some high-performance latter varieties are usually cooked in varieties to intensive cropping systems: IR refers to indica varieties. small quantities of water to avoid The poor adaptability of these rices to some harsh soil conditions and their loss of solids through drainage. In susceptibility to low temperatures has hindered their extension. contrast, parboiled and indica-type Indica rice varieties tend to have longer and more slender grains than those of the other rices do not show marked loss of groups, but this is not always the case. solids after cooking and are thus often cooked in excessive quantities Japónica group of water in most parts of Europe. The japónica group is grown in mountainous regions of Asia, temperate parts of Consumers generally prefer firm northern China, Korea, Japan and the Mediterranean region. Rainfed varieties are cooked rice. Hence, rice cookers dominant in Latin America and western Africa. developed in Japan and USA have Japónica rices are of considerable interest for certain qualities such as cold and drought recently become very popular for resistance, and their adaptability to poor soils. home cooking. The water quantity There is marked morphological variability between japónica varieties, e.g. the group and cooking time are controlled includes temperate short-stemmed, round-grain varieties of Korea and Japan that grow automatically according to the well under intensive irrigated cropping conditions, as well as long-stemmed, large-grain varieties grown in the tropics. quantity of rice to cook. Rice cooked by this technique is firmer. Grain-shapes in this group also vary, despite general opinion, they are not always round or large, e.g. japónica rice grown in southern USA, under irrigated subtropical Traders currently consider that, unless conditions, has a long and slender grain. However, rice varieties in this group there is substantial investment in generally have round, short or medium grains. research for alternative uses and in marketing, the only future for round- What is indica-type rice? grain rice will be for making cakes European Union has decided to classify all slender long-grain rices within the indica and flour. Medium-grain rices seem to type category, i.e. white rice with grains longer than 6 mm and a length/width ratio of be limited to traditional preparations more than 3 mm. This encompasses most varieties in the indica group and some in the such as paella in Spain and risotto japónica group, recently selected varieties in particular. in Italy.

4 Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1 995 rice market

Consumption rates of the overall cultivation zone in the Research on 1 940s to 1 2% in 1 989. Over the Rice consumption has increased at a same period, long-grain rice crop­ faster rate in northern European ping in Italy increased to 60% in countries where people are not tradi­ 1989. In France, 65% of the area was In France, the Laboratoire des tional rice consumers, as compared cropped with round-grain varieties in Substances Naturelles, ENSIA (Ecole to southern Europe. Consumption 1980, and only 15% in 1993. Long- nationale supérieure des industries reached 3.5 kg/person in northern grain varieties (long A and long B) alimentaires, Massy, France), in Europe in 1990. However, rates are now account for 79% of the rice collaboration with the Centre de still below 5.7 kg in Italy, 6.3 kg in cropping area: 25% Thaïbonnet (long coopération internationale en recherche Spain and 7 kg in USA (Table 3). It is B, indica), 37% Ariete (long A) and agronomique pour le développement predicted that rice consumption will (CIRAD, France), are developing an 17% Koral (long A). improved technique to extract and continue to rise in northern Europe Since 1988, the Commission of the identify all aromatic compounds from and gradually level off in southern European Communities (CEC) has several varieties of rice marketed in Europe. Europe. Genetic analyses to characterize had an active role in these develop­ aromatic rices are currently under way, In Italy, annual rice consumption ments by allocating subsidies to rice as part of a thesis study, at the per inhabitant includes about growers. These grants increased from Laboratoire de technologie des céréales 5 kg of japónica rice (round- and 100 ECU/ha ($35 000 US) in 1988 to (CIRAD), with the support of ENSIA. medium-grain varieties) and 300 g of 330 in 1993 to farmers who planted The Flour and Milling and Baking indica rice (slender long-grain indica type long-grain rice. Until Research Association (FMBRA, United varieties). Imported long-grain rice is 1993, it provided farmers with an Kingdom) has used an image analysis generally preferred in northern incentive to plant rice that was most technique to assess, in variety blends, Europe. In United Kingdom, the in demand in EU. Initially, the subsi­ alteration of aromatic rices by mean annual rice consumption per dy was calculated to compensate for non-aromatic varieties (WHITWORTFI, person includes 700 g of European the reduction in their revenues due to 1993). They have also used the Rapid japónica rice and 3.7 kg of indica Visco Analyzer to measure viscosity the lower yields of indica rices as of rice slurries. The results indicated rice (1993-1994 data; Table 4). compared to japónica varieties (i.e. that there is some relationship between field production 0.5-1 t/ha lower in this viscosity and the presence of temperate climates, with only 58% aromatic compounds. How can production milling yield, as compared to Other studies were carried out some 61 -62% for japónica). 10 years ago in USA to extract aromas, be adjusted? Since 1 993, after the last GATT identify the components and even Over the last 20 years, producers agreement, no direct subsidies are synthesize acetyl-2-pyrrolinel, the main have made efforts to adjust their compound of this aroma. allowed for areas planted with indica production to meet domestic rice. CEC has set up another market demand for long-grain rice, procedure whereby no subsidies are especially in Italy, Spain and France. provided for land cropped with In Italy, cropping of round-grain (i.e. indica rice, but the producer's short-grain) rice dropped from 70% purchase price is fixed at 94% the CEC intervention price, as compared to 90% for other rices. Moreover, rice Table 4. Estimate of 1993-1994 indica/japonica consumption, in white rice research institutes are to introduce equivalent, in European Union (source: Marchés rizicoles hebdo n° 412). and acclimatize new early varieties Country Population Indica Japónica from other temperate regions in the (1 000 inhabitants) (1 0001) (kg/capita) (1 0 001) (kg/capita) world, such as Chili and USA.

Italy 56 20 0.3 300 5.0 Spain 35 10 0.3 215 6.1 Ireland 3 4 1.1 1 0.3 Diversity of rice products Greece 10 11 1.1 41 4.1 European Union rice consumption Denmark 5 7 1.2 11 1.9 Belgium can be divided into three main + Luxemburg 10 15 1.4 3 0.3 sectors: home consumption (79% of Germany 78 118 1.5 62 0.8 the market), catering and collectivi­ Netherlands 14 29 2.0 6 0.4 ties (18%) and industry (3%) France 56 144 2.4 124 2.0 (CHATAIGNIER, 1991). The latter Portugal 10 29 2.9 116 11.6 two groups are expected to increase United Kingdom 57 207 3.7 40 2.7 their percentage of sales within the TOTAL 334 594 1.7 0.7 919 next 10 years.

Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1 995 5 rice market

France was the second largest Long slender aromatic white rice Cargo rice market (8 000 t) and Germany was (basmati group) (round-grain cv Ballila) third (3 000-4 000 t). It would be reasonable to expect further increases in European Union imports of this type of rice — to 70 000- White rice 80 000 t in 1995-1996 and 100 0001 (indica cv _ by the year 2000. Thaïbonnet) Paddy rice (harvested Sales of processed rice products such rice) as snack and breakfast foods have markedly increased, especially to a young urban clientele. However, these products still only account for a small share of the market.

In addition to these trends, the pro­ cessed rice industry is moving away from canned seasoned cooked rice to White rice Cargo rice focus on rice-based convenience (medium-grain cv Ariete) (indica cv Thaïbonnet) foods and ready-made dishes. Several frozen or pasteurized cooked rice dishes have been launched by Différents forms of rice. manufacturers and large-scale Photo T. Erwin With respect to white rice (as oppo­ grocery stores. The quality of such sed to whole and and dishes is steadily improving, with blends, etc.), precooked parboiled sales increasing substantially in rice, quick-cooking rice, cooked rice urban areas. packed in plastic pouches and frozen The development of rice specialities have had considerable success. The and new higher added value latter type can be used for collective products is related to the higher catering purposes after reheating in average income in some countries. microwave ovens. Precooked rices This has segmented the rice market, account for 6-8% of the French mar­ diversified prices and provided better ket, probably more than in the other margins for manufacturers. For European Union countries where instance, prices for aromatic rice are they were only recently introduced. 3-fold higher, and dried precooked Although white rice dominates the rices in pouches are 2- to 3-fold market, has increased higher than for standard long-grain its share of the m arket since the white rice. 1970s. It now represents 45-50% of Rice processing French market sales, 23% in United Kingdom, 17% in Italy, compared to only 10% in USA (HOGG, 1991; Technological Paddy rice is the rough harvested LECHEVALLIER, 1990; M AZZINI, form, with the grains still enclosed in 1992). protective glumes and glemma, called and cooking . After the husks are removed (the There has been an increase in the operation is known as dehulling), it characteristics variety of table rice consumed in the becomes husked or cargo rice. Whole last 10 years, although still only (or brown) rice is unprocessed (or only of rice slightly processed) cargo rice: the outer accounting for a small share of the layer can undergo some chafing. White market: brown or half-milled rice, Rice quality is evaluated in various rice is obtained by removing the rice blends, and organic ways by consumers in different germ and all the caryopsis layer (the rice (cultivated without chemicals). regions. For instance, a soft texture is operation is known as whitening). This consumption was almost preferred in some southern Asian Parboiled rice is obtained by soaking nonexistent at the outset of the markets, as in southern Europe, while paddy rice in hot water, followed by 1980s. In 1992, aromatic rice firmer cooked rice is more successful cooking and drying. This rice can then consumption, in United Kingdom, elsewhere in Europe. Parboiled rice be milled to obtain whole or white reached about 40 000 t of basmati has a slight typical aroma in India, parboiled rice. rice from India and Pakistan. but none in Europe.

Agriculture et développement ■ Special i: 3 - December 1 995 rice market

Table 5. CEC Regulation n° 1423/76 sets a reference standard for rice quality. brokens, mainly used for animal It provides a basis for calculating the intervention price of paddy rice. feed. However, milling yields actually obtained by millers fluctuate Healthy, true-to-type marketable rice, without any objectionable odour, meeting from year to year according to average round rice standards, harvested under normal conditions in European varietal susceptibility and agroclima- Union, of a type corresponding to cv Ballila. tic conditions (CLEMENT & SEGUY, Moisture content: 14.50%. 1994). Yields are also higher when Milling yield in head rice from paddy of 63%, of which the proportion of defective grains should not exceed (by weight): milling is carried out at 14-16% - chalky grain, 3%; grain moisture content. Moreover, - red streaked grain, 3%; parboiling reduces the percentage of - spotted grain, 0.50%; brokens obtained in rice mills - yellow grain, 0.05%; (MESTRES et al., 1993). - amber grain, 0.125%.

Appearance

Quality assessment is also dependent The appearance of white and parboi­ on the ultim ate use of the rice, led rices is evaluated by grain size, since technological and cooking shape, colour, gloss, translucency performances can vary for different and uniformity. A classification was rice varieties. They are related to the officially established by EU in 1988 morphological and chemical charac­ according to morphological criteria teristics of the grain which, in turn, based on length/width ratios for are related to genetic aspects and white grains (Table 6). Consumers cropping conditions. currently prefer A and B long-grain rices. Traders' customary references are a "US" rice (North American Grain qualify criteria standards) with a white rice grain length of more than 7 mm and a and measurements "Surinam" rice with a grain length There are three main rice quality of more than 8 mm. criteria: milling quality, appearance A chalky core (white, non-translucent) and cooking quality. Appearance on white rice, which is a varietal and and cooking quality are essential agronomic feature, and a yellow parameters for rice growers, traders, rather than amber parboiled rice manufacturers and consumers. colour, are considered as defects by M illing quality is important for rice many consumers. Indeed, white growers and millers. core, the floury part of rice endo­ European U nion has defined a sperm, is eliminated by parboiling or standard market quality for rice. cooking, i.e. starch is gelatinized thus It includes milling yield, moisture making the grain translucid. content, and percentage of broken, immature, chalky and coloured Physicochemical characteristics grains (Table 5). This classification, which aims at defining CEC market The physicochemical characteristics intervention conditions, is insufficient are useful cooking quality indicators. for manufacturers and distributers. They are all related to certain proper­ ties of starch, the main component of milled rice. The amylose content Table 6. Length/width grain ratio Milling quality (a starch component, along with classification for white rice Milling quality is measured by the amylopectin) is the best indicator (European Union standard, 1988). white-grain milling yield as a percen­ (PONS et al., 1992). It is positively tage of paddy rice. Grain Length Length/ correlated with the moisture type (mm) width The price paid to the farmer and absorption capacity during cooking Short grain <5.2 < 2 the miller's margin are calculated and with firmness (pressure resis­ Medium grain < 6.0 < 3 according to a standard milling yield tance) of cooked rice, i.e. as the Long A > 6.0 < 3 set by EU regulation. It varies from amylose content increases, the Long B > 6.0 > 3 68 to 71 kg of white rice, including cooked rice is firmer when eaten. Indica 56 to 64 kg of head rice and the rest Conversely, it is negatively correlated

Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1995 7 rice market

with stickiness (JULIANO, 1985). factor, while the major criterion was White rice grade Grain elasticity (i.e. capacity to that the rice should not be sticky. recover its original shape after the In 1994, EU household consumer standards first chew) and the gelatinization rice quality preferences seemed to be temperature of rice flour dissolved in more homogeneous. Non-stickiness The percentages of brokens, damaged water are also analysed. The latter is still the most important criterion, grains and chalky grains are used in parameter is a good indicator of rice followed by long slender grain and European Union, regardless of the cooking performance. length/width ratios, to classify rice into then quickness of cooking, except for the following four quality grades: traditional cuisine in rice-growing - superior quality rice, with not more Relationships between regions and for dessert recipes (cakes than 5% brokens (1 5% for precooked and puddings). Parboiled rice is only rice); instrumental measurements of interest because the grains are - rice with up to 10% brokens (25% for firm and unsticky after cooking precooked rice); and sensory analyses and these qualities are not lost with - second choice rice, with up to 50% overcooking. brokens. For this grade the percentage Information on consumers' sensorial of brokens must be indicated on the evaluations of rice texture is limited Consumers are relatively unaware of bag; or hedonic, i.e. consumers express innovations concerning rice that is - rice brokens, with more than 50% their preference on the organoleptic available on the market. The industry brokens. qualities of cooked rice, which should inform and "educate" consu­ Superior quality cannot have more than is by definition not objective mers to guarantee successful 1% of damaged and chalky grains, and (DALLAR & PONS, 1994; JULIANO, development of their activities. With not more than 6% for other rices. 1985; OKABE, 1979). There are no the introduction of new varieties of The maximum moisture content is published sensory evaluations of rice (wild and aromatic), ready set at 15% for white rice and 13% for rice in Europe. precooked rice. prepared meals, individual portions A texture profile was recently of boil-in-the-bag rice, wet-pack developed in France based on a canned rices and instant rice (i.e. sensory analysis of different cooked cooked in 3-5 min), manufacturers rice textures by a trained panel are seeking types of rice that will (ROUSSET eta!., 1994). The results stand up well to specific treatments were compared with rice textures or that will be better suited for measured with instruments. The specific preparations. trained panel was able to describe rice texture by not less than 19 sensory The industrial requirements can be attributes, and six of them were the expressed by the following questions: best descriptors for differentiating are amylose content and gelatiniza­ samples. Elasticity of cooked grain tion temperature the only two showed the most marked differences, factors to consider for long-grain followed by juiciness, firmness, rice? Is it possible to find a rice granular texture, stickiness and variety with a very low starch grain length. Finally, the texture hardening rate after cooking and classifications for the samples cooling (termed "rétrogradation" by according to these sensory attributes specialists)? Is there any rice that were not far from those determined does not require parboiling but yet instrumentally. has the same texture as parboiled rice after cooking and canning, or cooking and freezing? What are the Industrial and consumer critical parameters to obtain instant rice? Is there a reliable method to requirements assess the authenticity and purity of a shipment of aromatic rice? In 1970, the qualities preferred by household consumers were taste (flavour) in Italy, appearance in European research France, quickness of cooking in Germany and the Netherlands and on rice quality Measuring firmness in cooked rice the rice brand in Belgium. Generally, with an Instron texturometer. the rice-producing country (country Various research programmes have Photo T. Erwin of origin) was the least important been set up, some with CEC backing,

Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1995 rice market

at national levels in several countries. International research Measuring They aim at adjusting the quality of EU rice to meet domestic market cooperation cooking quality requirements. They cover the whole rice sector, from cultivation The Mediterranean Region Cooking quality cannot be described techniques to quality analysis tech­ Cooperative Research Network on and evaluated according to only one niques, while specifically focusing Rice was established after an FAO or two criteria. Several methods have on aromatic rice. These programmes consultation meeting in France in been developed to assess the cooking are being implemented by national 1990. The members are Bulgaria, properties and texture of cooked rice. research organizations, with input Egypt, France, Greece, Flungary, Texture, a major factor determining from other organizations within the Italy, Morocco, Portugal, Romania, cooking quality, has always been Russia, Spain and Turkey; it is also difficult to measure (JULIANO et al., EU research network. open to other Mediterranean 1984). The criteria most commonly countries. The Network aims at used to define texture are as follows: promoting rice research cooperation - the firmness and stickiness of cooked Standardizing analytical grain, measured with a universal between all countries that produce texturometer (Instron); methods this cereal under the Mediterranean - the thickness, firmness and elasticity climate. Five working groups were of cooked grain, measured with a At the EU level, the programme to set up, to cover: biotechnology, viscoelastograph (Chopin); promote indica type rice highlighted breeding, agronomy, processing, - the moisture absorption capacity or an urgent need to standardize economics/marketing. Each group extent of swelling of cooked grain, has got together at least once determined by the cooked grain weight analytical methods in the involved since 1 990 to prepare their work over the uncooked weight. research laboratories. programme. Measurements of amylose content, firmness and stickiness were harmo­ The rice processing group, for nized from 1988 to 1990 through instance, met in Egypt in 1992 and comparisons of techniques used in recommended three main focuses for six European laboratories (France, work: utilization of by-products, Italy, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain extension of rice milling technology and United Kingdom). It was found to villages (of particular interest for that the same procedure was used in Egypt), and rice quality. The group all laboratories, but the precision of should meet again in 1995 to further the results varied, thus hindering discuss these three topics. The rice experimental reproducibility. For quality group will concentrate on instance, the precision of amylose interlaboratory comparisons of determinations is highly dependent analytical techniques to assess on the purity of amylose and amylo- the quality of rice varieties grown pectin standards supplied by in the region. manufacturers, which were found to The scientific aspects of the vary between shipments. Network's activities are as follows: In 1991, a ring test was set up, - improving water use efficiency coordinated by the Flour and Milling in rice cultivation through high and Baking Research Association technology irrigation; (FMBRA, United Kingdom) under the - increasing yields through wide- auspices of the Community Bureau ranging hybridization or the use of of Reference (Brussels), between new biotechnology tools; five laboratories (France, Italy, - using molecular biology techniques Netherlands, Portugal and United to overcome constraints concerning Kingdom) to analyse samples water stress, salinity and high alumi­ produced by one of the laboratories. nium levels, to enable successful The results were fully satisfactory. cropping of high quality rice (indica) These samples will now be used as in the Mediterranean climate; standards until year 2000. This coordinated approach facilitates - improving drying, storage and interlaboratory interpretations and handling equipment and techniques greatly improves the reliability of to reduce percentages of broken amylose content measurements. grains and energy consumption;

Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1 995 rice market

A mini-rice mill is used in the laboratory to mill small quantities of rice. It can also be used in industrial plants to test the technical quality of a batch before processing.

The husker removes the external layers () of paddy rice grain to obtain cargo rice. General layout. Photo T. Erwin Photo T. Erwin

- improving objective methods for riz and the Office national interpro­ measuring rice quality, flavour com­ fessionnel des céréales (ONIC). Prior pounds and the effects of storage on to this, Italy was the only country rice quality; with specialized rice institutions, - investigating rice grain protein/star­ such as the Ente Risi and the Centro ch interactions during processing; di Ricerche sul Riso. The latter insti­ new processing techniques; nutritio­ tution carried out a comprehensive nal quality of rice enriched or not study on the cooking qualities of with vitamins or amino acids; finding 90 japónica rice varieties cultivated uses for low gelatinization tempera­ in the country, w h ile taking the ture rice varieties; cooking criteria of the EU indica rice programme into account (MAZZINI - developing expert systems to aid et al., 1990). Most of the varieties had The blancher. After several runs, rice producers in decision making, high stickiness and low hardness the mill cone gradually wears down evaluating the cost-effectiveness of results in the cooked rice texture the outer caryopsis layer of the cargo input applications in flood irrigation analyses. This indicates that they rice grain to obtain white rice. systems and the impact on rice yield would not qualify for the European Photo T. Erwin and quality. indica rice programme.

Institutional research

Institutional research has mainly European prospects been strenghtened in France with the founding of the Centre français du riz The European Union, with 350 000 (CFR) in 1988 by a joint decision of to 370 000 ha cropped with rice, is the French Ministry of Agriculture, not yet self-sufficient, but it could the Association des producteurs de become so if the crop zone were to

0 Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1 995 rice market

expand beyond 400 000 ha. precooked rice, which have a Nevertheless, the main objective for relatively neutral taste. In the second the coming years should be to meet case, tasty rice (possibly aromatic) EU market demand for long-grain should be carefully prepared indica rice. (controlled water quantities and cooking times) for festive occasions Rice are working in all EU and gourmet meals. rice-growing countries to improve milling yields with long — and slender — grain varieties and enhan­ How can the ce their agronomic traits (i.e. earli­ ness, productivity, and resistance to South benefit? cold, blast and shattering). Selection programmes are based on varietal All of the research and analysis introductions, haploid methods, techniques discussed here are quite hybridization, mass selection and sophisticated. They might be difficult mutagenesis. Many genetically to apply in developing tropical and subtropical countries because of the long-term costs or, more subjectively, due to differences in standard rice quality criteria. However, simple rou­ tine methods could be implemented to assess cooking characteristics of local rice varieties in Africa, g** e.g. extent of grain swelling after K -, ■ cooking, firmness measurements with a penetrometer (rather than a more expensive Instron texturome- ter), and stickiness evaluated by hand testing.

Experience in Asia and Africa has shown that local rices are preferred over imports. For instance, in China, Côte d'Ivoire and Vietnam, consu­ mers have a low opinion of imported rices, which never taste or cook as well as local varieties. In Africa, rice imported from Asia is only eaten because it is sold cheaper than the Semiautomatic measurements of rice local types. Local rices are always grain lengths/widths using a Russian im proved varieties should be used for festive occasions. In Côte HP3-8 apparatus. obtained within the next 2-4 years. d'Ivoire, the local variety IRAT 216 is Photo T. Erwin highly esteemed by consumers, EU rice industries are focusing on despite the fact that instrumental diversification of rice blends and analyses indicate that it is a very ready-made rice dishes. There will be average quality rice by European further research on rices with traits standards. that could upgrade the quality of final processed products. Countries that intend to improve their rice production should thus take both The industry should provide the objective analytical results and consumers with more comprehensive consumer preferences into considera­ information. Rice is considered as an tion when developing their policies. easy to prepare garnish to accompany Finally, in the longer term, it would fish or meat dishes and, in contrast, as be interesting to set up a breeding a speciality to be cooked with care. In programme for African aromatic the first case, the ideal would be a rices, with the aim of competing with slender, unsticky and translucent Asian aromatic rices that now domi­ white rice or parboiled rice, or nate world markets.

Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1 995 rice market

GLASZMANN J.-C., BENOIT H., M A Z Z IN I F., FA N TO N E G .C., Bibliography ARNAUD M., 1984. Classification des riz CORMEGNA M., 1990. Collosita e cultivés (Oryza sativa L.). U tilisation de Ia consistenza del riso cotto in varieta italiane. variabilité isoenzymatique. L'Agronomie Euroryza 1 : 36-41. BUTTERY R.G., TURNBAUGH J.G., Tropicale 39 (1) : 51-66. I ING L.C., 1 988. Contribution of volatiles to OKABE M., 1979. Texture measurement rice aroma in rice. J. Agrie. Food. Chem. HOGG A., 1991. Rice consumption in the of cooked rice and its relationship to the 36 : 1 006-1 009. UK. In La consommation du riz en Europe, eating quality. Journal of Texture Studies 10 : CHATAIGNIER J., 1991. La consommation CHATAIGNIER (édit.), p. 1 13-134. Paris, 131-152. du riz en Europe. Paris, France, INRA, série France, INRA, série Notes et Documents 97, PONS B., MESTRES C., FAURE J., 1992. Notes et Documents 97, 198 p. 198 p. Le problème de l'évaluation de la qualité du CLEMENT G., SEGUY J.-L., 1994. H.B. INTERNATIONAL, 1993. Le marché riz : les riz de type Indica cultivés dans la Le comportement du riz à l'usinage. communautaire du riz basmati de 1988 à Communauté économique européenne. Agriculture et développement 3 : 38-46. 1992. Marchés rizicoles Hebdo 376 et 377. L'Agronomie Tropicale 46 (1) : 59-64.

DALLARD J., PONS B., 1994. Qualité JU L IA N O B .O ., PEREZ C .M ., ROUSSET S., PONS B., P ILA N D O N C., du riz : enquête auprès des consommateurs A LY O -S H IN E.P., R O M A N O V V .B ., 1995. Development of a texture profile ivoiriens et évaluation instrumentale des BLAKENEY A.B., WELSH L.A., CHOUDHURY following sensory analysis of cooked rice. variétés. Agriculture et développement 2 : N.H., DELGADO L., IWASAKI T., SHIBUYA N., Relationships between grain physicochemical 29-34. MOSSMAN A.P., SIWI B., DAMARDJATI D.S., characteristics, instrumental measurements SUZUKI H., KIMURA H „ 1984. International and sensory analysis of cooked rice. Journal of FAURE J., M AZAU D F., 1994. Rice quality cooperative test on texture of cooked rice. Texture Studies (in press). criteria and the European market. Journal of Texture Studies 15 : 357-376. In Proceedings of the 1 8th Session of the WHITWORTH M., 1993. Basmati rice JULIANO B.O., 1985. Rice : chemistry and International Rice Committee, FAO, Rome, testing by image analysis. Chorleywood, technology. 2nd Edition, St Paul MN, United Italy, 29 August-2 September 1994. FAO, Hertfordshire, WD3 5SH, United Kingdom, States, Am. Assoc. Cereal. Chem. (AACC), 774 p. Rome, Italy. FMBRA Documentation, 4 p. FOOD AND AGRICULTURAL LECHEVALLIER C., 1990. La commerciali­ ORGANIZATION, 1993. Riz paddy. sation du riz en Camargue. Bilan 1988-1989. In Annuaire de la production 47 : 70-71. Rome, Perspectives. Ecole supérieure d'agriculture de Italy, FAO, 254 p. Toulouse-Purpan, Toulouse, France, 107 p.

Abstract... Resumen... Résumé

J. FAURE, F. MAZAUD — Rice quality in the J. FAURE, F. MAZAUD — La calidad del arroz en la J. FAURE, F. MAZAUD — La qualité du riz European Union. Unión Europea. dans l'Union européenne. Five European Union countries produce rice, supplying Cinco paises de la Unión Europea son productores de Cinq pays de l'Union européenne sont producteurs de riz et approximately 2.1 million tonnes of paddy rice arroz y suministran aproximadamente 2,1 millones de fournissent environ 2,1 millions de tonnes de riz paddy (i.e. 1.4 million tonnes of white rice). Total consumption toneladas de arroz paddy (es decir 1,4 millón de (soit 1,4 million de tonnes de riz blanc), sur un total de is 3.1 million tonnes in the whole of Europe. Consumption toneladas de arroz blanco), sobre un total de 3,1 millones 3,1 millions pour l'ensemble de l'Europe. La consommation increases each year and imports are required to make para toda Europa. El consumo aumenta cada año y, para augmente chaque année et il faut importer pour compléter up for insufficient production and to meet consumer completar la producción insuficiente y responder a la la production insuffisante et répondre à la préférence des preference for long grain rice of the indica type. preferencia de los consumidores por el arroz largo y fino consommateurs pour le riz à grain long et fin de type The variety of rice-based foods resulting from industry del tipo indica, es necesario importar. La diversificación indica. La diversification des préparations alimentaires à efforts in diversification and the now broader range de las preparaciones alimentarias a base de arroz, debido base de riz, due aux efforts d'innovation des industriels et of special types of rice available today, such as aromatic, a los esfuerzos de innovación de los industriales y la la gamme plus large de riz spéciaux disponibles wild and pre-cooked rice requires better control and gama más amplia de arroces especiales disponibles aujourd'hui, comme les riz aromatiques, sauvages, more accurate definition of grain quality features. actualmente, como los arroces aromáticos, silvestres o précuits, requièrent un meilleur contrôle et une définition It is increasingly important to measure the technological precocidos, requieren un mejor control y una definición plus précise des caractéristiques qualitatives du grain. and culinary qualities according to the end-use criteria más precisa de las características cualitativas del grano. Il est de plus en plus important de mesurer les qualités that are equally important for industrialists and breeders. Resulta cada vez más importante medir las cualidades technologiques et culinaires en fonction de l'utilisation Cooperation between European Union countries tecnológicas y culinarias en función de la utilización final, finale, selon des critères qui présentent autant d'intérêt has received financial backing from the Commission según criterios que presenten tanto interés para los pour les industriels que pour les sélectionneurs. La of the European Communities to promote high-quality industriales como para los seleccionadores. Se ha coopération entre les pays de l'Union européenne s'est European Union rice production suited to this organizado la cooperación entre los paises de la Unión organisée avec l'appui financier de la Commission growing market. Europea, con el apoyo financiero de la Comisión de las des communautés européennes, pour promouvoir une Keywords: rice, grain, indica, japónica, agrofood Comunidades europeas, para promover una producción production rizicole intérieure de qualité, adaptée à ce technology, quality, research, consumption, market, interior de arroz de calidad, adecuada para este mercado marché en expansion. European Union. en expansión. Mots-clés : riz, grain, indica, japónica, technologie Palabras clave: arroz, grano, indica, japónica, tecnología agroalimentaire, qualité, recherche, consommation, agroalimentaria, calidad, investigación, consumo, marché, Union européenne. mercado, Unión Europea.

Agriculture et développement ■ Special issue - December 1995