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North Otago.Indd . As you approach Matanaka you can’t help but wonder why NORTH OTAGO Johnny Jones chose to build there in 1843. The access is difficult even now, there is no obvious water source and the site is exposed WAIKOUAITI to all winds. One of the buildings is a two-roomed school that Heritage/Architecture could seat up to 15 students. One can only feel sorry for them. A hard-headed businessman and whaler, Jones must have kept an Heritage eye from there on the comings and goings at his whaling station at Karitane; or, perhaps, he just enjoyed the views. At the age of 16, Johnny Jones (1809-69) worked as a sealer. Fourteen years later he owned six ships and seven whaling The surviving original wooden buildings include a storehouse, stations, including one at Karitane, bought in 1838. Always granary, stables and three-seater privy as well as the school with an eye to the future, he increased his holdings by buying house. The three largest buildings were prefabricated in Sydney land from Karitane to Matanaka at the north end of Waikouaiti and the granary and stables still have their original ‘Patented Beach. Galvanised Tinned Iron’ roof’. His farm at Matanaka dates from 1840 when he brought over The stable is the most appealing building, not only because of its from New South Wales a group of settlers in the sailing ship proportions, but because you can go inside to look at the six stalls Magnet. The farm supplied food to the whaling station and also with their mangers at the head. Above each manger is a gap for sent supplies to the first settlers to Dunedin in 1848. dropping straw down from the loft. If you want, you can climb the ladder and go into the loft where the fodder was stored. It is As a merchant and farmer, Johnny Jones prospered, building up in remarkably good condition and could easily hold a barn dance his shipping company and extending his lands with the acquisition today. of several sheep runs. He did, however, donate the land for both the Presbyterian church (1863) and St John’s Anglican church Although the colonial farm buildings are quite close to the (1858), designed by B.W. Mountfort who is remembered chiefly present farm, the atmosphere of the past and a feeling of isolation for the Christchurch buildings he designed. are powerful as you gaze at the stark, simple buildings against the huge sea and sky that surround them. Architecture Matanaka Farm Buildings Appeal: Farm buildings organised like a small village, so isolated that they seem to have been placed neatly but without purpose on the landscape. The turn-off to Matanaka farm is signposted at the northern entrance to Waikouaiti before the racecourse. Pass the golf course and follow a signposted, unsealed, narrow road up the hill to the north of the beach. From the carpark there is a five minute walk to the farm buildings. 1 KARITANE Watkin had, nevertheless, made some progress with conversions and establishing mission schools. On the terrace above the Scenic Route riverbank reserve there is a cairn where Watkin delivered the first If you are travelling on the main north-south road from Christian sermon in Otago on 17 May, 1840. Christchurch to Dunedin, take the time to deviate from the highway and follow the coastal road through Karitane, Seacliff and Warrington. You meet the main highway again at Evansdale Walk where the well-known cheese factory originated. From the small reserve near the mouth of the river, take the path These villages to the east side of busy State Highway 1 are towards the sea. At the foot of the hill, turn right towards the infrequently visited, despite the beauty of the scenes around beach. Turn left on the road adjacent to the beach and follow it up them. Perhaps this is why they retain their sense of isolation and the hill until you come to the track heading up onto the Huriawa peacefulness. Peninsula. The winding and undulating nature of the road forces you to The Huriawa Peninsula pa was famous for withstanding a long slow down and appreciate the stunning views of the coast. Make siege after members of the tribe declared war on one another. sure you stop at the lookout point on the hill above Karitane for Chief Te Wera, was accused of killing family members. Intent on a superb view of the Karitane and Waikouaiti beaches and the revenge, his cousin Taoka laid siege to the pa. Te Wera’s people Huriawa Peninsula. in the pa survived because of its almost unassailable position at the top of sheer cliffs; they were also able to launch their canoes at night from the small beach on the north side and go fishing. Picnic/Beach After attacking the pa for six months, Taoka had to retreat when Karitane is bounded on two sides by beach and the Waikouaiti his men couldn’t find food. River where fishing boats anchor. The beach is beautiful, or a On the south-eastern side of the peninsula, the track takes you reserve near the mouth of the river makes an ideal picnic spot. where you can see blowholes carved out of the cliffs by the sea. The Huriawa Peninsula rises steeply out of the sea at the north The best view is at high tide when the sea roars in and flings itself end of the beach. It once provided a commanding position for the upwards. site of an old Ngai Tahu pa or fortified village. After seeing the blowholes, follow the track until it takes you Heritage down the northern side of the peninsula to the bottom of the hill and the mouth of the river. As you walk back along the track at Whaling Station the base of the peninsula, look up to your left at the large white two-storeyed wooden house with the flagpole. This was the house In 1837, Karitane became the site of a whaling station. With of Sir Truby King. that came drunkenness and violence. Three years later Johnny Jones, a whaler and local landowner, brought out from Sydney a Methodist missionary to raise the tone of the area. The Reverend Sir Truby King 1858-1938 James Watkin found his task daunting. He described Karitane as One of the best-known names in New Zealand medical history. ‘Purgatory’ to Charles Creed who succeeded him. In 1907 Sir Truby King founded the Society for the Health of Women and Children, which became the Plunket Society (after its patron, Lady Plunket, wife of the Governor. The seaside 2 village where he lived for many years gave its name to Karitane SEACLIFF hospitals, established to care for mothers and babies. Heritage Plunket nurses are still trained to look after young children, and New Zealand mothers retain as treasured possessions their Seacliff Mental Hospital Plunket books recording the weights and measurements of their The large stone building stood on the hill above Seacliff village, babies. an Otago institution for nearly a century. Locals understood that someone referred to as being ‘up the line’ (i.e. the railway line Sir Truby King was also interested in mental health. north of Dunedin) was a patient at Seacliff Hospital. Superintendent of Seacliff Mental Hospital for 30 years, he initiated reforms in the treatment of mental illness. Said to resemble Balmoral Castle, the three-storeyed building was completed in 1884 at a cost of 78,000 pounds. Less than a year after it was built, signs of subsidence and distortion were evident. The hillside site offered magnificent views over Blueskin Bay but the land was very unstable. In 1959, the original hospital building, for 50 years the largest public building in New Zealand, had to be demolished. A blessing in disguise, as it became totally unsuited to modern nursing practices. Patients remained at Seacliff for a few more years housed in single storeyed wooden wards. Eventually they were all transferred to villas at Cherry Farm on State Highway 1 near the Karitane turnoff. Today a factory produces cheeses at Cherry Farm and patients are cared for in Dunedin. Walk Only a few private buildings remain on the Seacliff Hospital site, but you can still walk through part of the old grounds, now called the Truby King Reserve. Some people will see only a somewhat neglected garden with fine specimen trees which Sir Truby King had planted during his many years as Medical Superintendent; others may also feel something of the spirit of the thousands of patients who lived there. Perhaps Seacliff’s best known patient was the novelist, Janet Frame. In her novels, Owls do Cry and Faces in the Water, she captures vividly the atmosphere of the hospital in the early 50s. 3 WARRINGTON PALMERSTON Picnic/beach Heritage Turn off the Karitane-Evansdale coastal road and drive down the A replica gold sluicing site with miner’s hut, at the corner of beach past unpretentious houses and cribs set amongst bushes SH 1 and SH 85 (the Pigroot) reminds visitors of Palmerston’s and trees. connections to gold. Named after an illustrious British Prime Minister - Lord Palmerston - the town’s importance during the There is no tourist hype here. Though it has grown somewhat 1860s goldrushes is reflected in its title. Gold still helps sustain larger, Warrington has not changed much in its nature over the the town with the massive Macraes Goldmine (32 kms inland) last fifty years and remains a favourite spot for Otago picnickers providing work for many people. and holiday makers because of its lovely beach.
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