THE SILK ROADS AT THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF : A VISUAL INTRODUCTION

3KRWR VRXUFH KWWSVZZZPXVHXPJRNUXSORDGÀOHHFPVYLVXDOMSJ All other photos by Daniel C. Waugh

his is quite simply one of the great museums in the world, worth a visit T to , where there is so much else to see too…. The museum’s web site (which I have consulted only in English, at ) has a nice interactive guide to all the galleries with selective highlights of what they contain, part of a larger collections database. The photographs are excellent, the captioning often frustratingly cryptic but obviously a work in progress. The somewhat intimidating modern building with its open central FRUULGRU DFFRPPRGDWHV RQH RI WKH ÀUVW LPSRUWDQW LQGLFDWLRQV WKDW .RUHD indeed belongs on any map of the Silk Roads: the ten-storey pagoda erected in the 14th century on whose lower tiers are scenes from the Chinese Journey to the West, an account based on the travels of Xuanzang in the 7th century. 2IFRXUVHLWZRXOGEHSRVVLEOHQHYHUWRPDNHLWEH\RQGWKHÀUVWÁRRUZKHUH there is a chronologically arranged sequence of galleries, many of the objects FODVVLÀHGDVQDWLRQDOWUHDVXUHVLQFOXGLQJULFKÀQGVIURPWKHth-6th century Dynasty tombs in . Dazzled by the gold, one might easily

(right) Pagoda erected at Gyeong- FKHRQVD 7HPSOH LQ  1DWLRQDO 7UHDVXUHɊ,QYɊ%RQ OHIW *ROGFURZQth²th century. 7UHDVXUHɊ,QYɊ%RQ (below right) Ceramic vessel in VKDSHRIKRUVHDQGULGHUth centu- U\ 1DWLRQDO WUHDVXUH Ɋ  ,QY Ɋ%RQ%RWKH[FDYDWHGIURP excavated from Geumnyeongchong tomb in Gyeongju.

The 14 (2016): 226–235 + Color Plates X-XIV 226 Copyright © 2016 Daniel C. Waugh Copyright © 2016 The Silkroad Foundation Mural fragment, from Ssangyeongchong Tomb in 1DPSR 1RUWK.RUHD th century (Three Dynas- ties Period--). (right) Phoenix-shaped glass ewer, from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (South Mound of Tomb Ɋ *\HRQJMXth century. Probably an import IURP:HVWHUQ$VLD1DWLRQDO7UHDVXUHɊ,QY Ɋ+ZDQJQDP

miss such treasures as a mural fragment of a mounted warrior, who, one might imagine, could have passed along the roads leading west in the 5th century. If \RXÀQDOO\PDNHLWWRWKHWKLUGÁRRUWKHUHDUHGD]]OLQJGLVSOD\VRI%XGGKLVW plastic arts such as the inspiring “Pensive Bodhisattva,” which merits its own quiet room. One of the stunning displays is the 13 m high hanging scroll from the Bukjangsa Temple which was created in 1688, so large that (as is evident KHUH  LW LV GLIÀFXOW WR SKRWRJUDSK GHFHQWO\ 7KH VXEWOHWLHV DQG HOHJDQFH RI .RUHDQFHODGRQVDUHDOVRGLIÀFXOWWRUHSOLFDWHRQWKHVHSDJHVVR,KDYHVHWWOHG IRUDQRWKHURIWKHQDWLRQDOWUHDVXUHVDUHPDUNDEOHFRPSOH[´ÀVKGUDJRQµ

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227 On my recent visit in September 2016, just in time to miss the Sinan Shipwreck exhibtion described above (!), the gallery that is to house the permanent display was close for remounting of the artifacts. Next to it though is a Central gallery, the focus of our attention here, artifacts from the “Western Regions” along the Silk Roads. Much of this material was collected there by Otani Kozui (1876-1948), with a portion of what he accumulated remaining in Korea after the end of the Japanese occupation. So one can see here a representative sample of material from some of the most famous sites along the silk roads. Additional images are in Color Plates X-XI9 at the end of this volume. — Daniel C. Waugh

Masks and baskets from Loulan. Bronze Age, analogous examples known from the Little River (Xiaohe) cemetery, dated late 3rd–2nd century BCE.

Terracottas from Yotkan, the ancient site on the outskirts of Khotan, ca. 3rd²th centuries. Such items are very common, with many examples in the British Museum, the Ethnographic Museum in Stockholm and in other collections. Figurines of monkeys, playing instruments or in erotic poses are among the most commonly found.

(right) Terracotta of Serapis and Harpocrates, Khotan, 2nd–3rd centuries CE, presumably transmit- ted from the Hellenisitic or 5RPDQ(DVW,QYɊ%RQ 3901.

(left) Bronze seal and its impression, Qumtura, 1st – 4th century CE

228 (above, left and center). Vase, Khotan, 3rd²thFHQWXU\,QYɊ EHORZOHIW $'HYDWDIURP0XUWXN 7XUIDQ th²th century. DERYH ULJKW  %LUGKHDGHG HZHU .DUDNKRMD 7XUIDQ th²th century. (below, right). Head of a Buddha, Khotan, 4th²th century. Inv. ,QYɊ%RQ Ɋ%RQ

229 +HDGVRI%XGGKLVWGHLWLHVth²th century, Turfan. Anal- ogous examples were collected at Tumshuq by the Pelliot expedition at the beginning of the 20thFHQWXU\QRZLQWKH Musée Guimet, Paris.

Terracotta appliques from Buddhist sites, the elephants, pre- sumably representing the Indian deity Ganesh, from Qum- WXUDthFHQWXU\WKHRWKHUVVRPHZKDWHDUOLHUIURP.KRWDQ Some of these probably were attached to mandorlas behind sculptures.

230 Mural fragments: (left) from Tur- fan (Bezeklik?), 10th century (Inv. Ɋ %RQ   DQG ULJKW  IURP %H]HNOLN &DYH  th²th century %RQ 

(below) Moulded plaques of medi- tating monks from Dunhuang, 10th FHQWXU\ %RQ DQDORJRXVH[- amples in, e.g., National Museum, New Delhi.

(bottom and right) Thousand Bud- dha mural fragments, Qumtura, &DYH  th–9th century (Bon  

231 (top left) Mural fragment, hand of Buddhist devo- WHH KROGLQJ ÁRZHU IURP D Pranidhi scene, Bezeklik, &DYHth–12th century. (right) Mural fragments with Uighur inscriptions, Bezeklik, 10th century (Bon   (left) Silk banners depict- ing Bodhisattvas, from Dunhuang, Tang Dynas- W\ ,QY ɊɊ %RQ  4022).

(bottom right) Decorative curtains, mural fragment, %H]HNOLN&DYHth–12th century.

232 $UWLIDFWVIURPWKH$VWDQDFHPHWHU\DQG.DUDNKRMD7XUIDQth²th FHQWXU\ WRSOHIW +HDGRIDJXDUGLDQÀJXUH WRSULJKW JXDUGLDQ EHDVW ERWWRPOHIW ÀJXULQHRIDHXQXFK ULJKW ÀJXULQHVRIZRP- en. These mingqi are abundant, exhibited in various collections [e.g., a very large array in the Uighur Augonomous Region Mu- VHXP 8UXPTL RWKHUVLQWKH0XVpH*XLPHW 3DULV WKH%ULWLVK 0XVHXP /RQGRQ DQGWKH1DWLRQDO0XVHXP 1HZ'HOKL @

233 (top left and right) 0RUH WRPE ÀQJX- rines (on right, Inv. Ɋ%RQ 

(right) Painted pots from Astana.

(below) Silk pouch, Karakhoja, 13th–14thFHQWXU\ ,QYɊ%RQ 

ULJKW  %URQ]H PLUURU 7XUIDQ th²th century ,QYɊ%RQ LOOXVWUDWLQJWKHVWRU\RI;X You, a man of virtue who declined the throne.

234 Lamp, Khotan. :RRGHQVKRHV7XUIDQth²thFHQWXU\ ,QYɊ%RQ 

As the map at the entrance to the Central Asia gallery reminds visitors, in the east, the Silk Roads did not stop in Chang’an but reached as far as Gyeongju. In another context, it would be reasonable to extend the route beyond to Japan, as the Sinan shipwreck itself suggests.

235 Plate X National Museum of Korea, pp. 226-35.

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*LOWEURQ]HEHOW*RU\HRG\QDVW\ ,QYGXN  Plate XII National Museum of Korea, pp. 226-35.

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National Museum of Korea, pp. 226-35. &ORFNZLVH IURP XSSHU OHIW  0RXOGHG SODTXH RI PHGLWDWLQJ PRQN IURP 0RJDR &DYHV'XQKXDQJWK century  ,QY%RQ  $YDORNLWHĤYDUD 1HSDO WK c e n t u r y ,QYNRR  %RGKLVDWWYD6RQJG\QDVW\&RORURQZRRG ,QY%RQ  %XGGKD DQG GLVFLSOHV RQ 9XOWXUH 3HDN KDQJLQJ VFUROO IURP %XNMDQJVD 7HPSOH SDLQWHGLQ Plate XIV National Museum of Korea, pp. 226-35.

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