Among the castles around Asti

It is a pleasant opportunity to recommend a route among the castles of the province: almost every municipality, in fact has preserved one or more castles or at least some remains, a tower or a ruin of the manor that dominated it. With some exceptions one may confirm the date of the beginning of a spread in the construction of defensive buildings in the territory of the present occurred around the end of the 9th century, that is at the time of the invasions of the Hungarians and of the Saracens (924 is the year in which the Castelvecchio of Asti is cited for the first time). From 889 AD the Saracens had installed themselves in Frassineto, Provence, using it as the base for their raids in , and in 924 AD the Hungarians had reached as far as Pavia. The raids ceased in the 11th century, but the construction of the castles continued encouraged by the political situation of the period. The life of the castles in Monferrato has not however, been easy; first of all during the , owing to the continuous struggle between the free Municipality of Asti, and the Marquisate of , and then in the 16th and 17thcenturies, during the wars of succession to the Marchesate that witnessed raids by the Spanish and French armies during which some of the castles were completely destroyed. After the reconciliation of Monferrato at the beginning of the 18thcentury, those surviving had no longer a defensive function, becoming elegant country residences. To facilitate the use of this priceless heritage by tourists, the Province of Asti has promoted, for more than 10 years, the "Open Castles" initiative which, from May to October on prearranged dates and times, enables visits to certain castles (many of which are private property), noble residences and historical gardens otherwise closed to the public. In 2007, on the recommendation by the Region of Piedmont, the initiative was introduced within the interregional project "Urban Centres, Villas and Castles”. Montemagno Castle

is from the southern facade, facing the Italian garden. Recent restorations have been made to the inside of the castle, in particular the Red Hall, the reception place of the Amico , the Princess’s Boudoir, the Green Room and the Theatre below. The Green Room was the music and reception room and is characterised by a splendid The large Towers floor in painted ceramic Majolica. A small room is dedicated to Giovan rising on the site of the manor house Baptist De Rolandis, the inventor of of which the large towers remain the ‘tricolore’ national flag, born just (one accommodates the shop a few metres from the castle, another and the tourist information office) and room to Giandouja, the mask of the mighty wall. Piedmont, born in Callianetto di Heading towards Calliano one Castell' Alfero in the 19th century. arrives at Castell' Alfero, interesting In the evocative cellars is the site of centre at the entrance of the Valle the Ethnographic Museum, L’Ciar (in Versa and stronghold of the free Piedmont dialect, the light) a glimpse Municipality of Asti since 1290, of the past country life, with the positioned on the boundary of the faithful reconstruction of the domestic territories of the Marchesato. spaces, among which a classroom, Ascending on foot from the square and workshops dating back to the below the defensive walls, bordering beginning of the 20th century. The the old granary of the castle, one castle also houses an information arrives at the public garden, at one point and a restaurant. time the park of the Amico Counts, th For Information: Municipality of who were responsible for the 18 Castell’Alfero Tel. 0141 40661 century transformation of the fortress www.castellalfero.net of medieval origins into the noble www.museolciar.com. residence designed by the architect After a pause to admire the pano- . The entrance to rama from the garden and from the the castle, seat of the municipality, terrace, head towards Valle Versa.

Castell’Alfero Castle Castell’Alfero Castle garden Castle

Between the Valle Versa and the of the largest in Monferrato. It has a Val Rilate charming and rich history of legends and a very complex architectural The valley road was a route used by structure: the four still quite armies and pilgrims in medieval times identifiable tower houses belonged and controlled by many castles. to the families of the "cooperative" The first one that we see on the left of feudal lords that owned it in is the manor house of , medieval times. Internally, continuing, we notice on medieval parts, among th the right hand side that which is the 14 of Colcavagno (today century room called ‘of used as a retirement the bifore’ (relating to home) and then we the windows), rise towards Montiglio alternate with rooms th Monferrato. The castle dating from the 18 th is imposing and was one and 19 centuries. The castle was the seat to the itinerant court of the Marquis of Monferrato and accommodated eminent characters and among whom, Rambaldo of Vaiquerais (at the end of the 12th century) who would have composed some songs here inspired by the daughter of Bonifacio I. The chapel of Sant' Andrea in the large garden conceals a small treasure, the most important cycle of 14th century frescoes in Piedmont, work of the so-called Maestro (teacher) of Montiglio. The Castle frescoes represent the life of Christ The manor house that at one time with a theme "a continuous ribbon" accommodated the musician almost like a sequence of photo Schumann, is a strong body of frames, an absolutely unique wonder constructions dating between the not to be missed. 12th and the 16th century, still For information: Turist Office in belonging today to the family of the Montiglio Tel. 0141 904006 Radicati Counts who built it in the www.montigliom.at.it 14th century and is one of the most From Montiglio descend to Piovà representative in the Asti area. Its Massaia to continue towards garden, identified among the . Historical Gardens of Monferrato, A deviation to Passerano Marmorito accommodates a rich vegetation, is advised to see at least the outside among which is a monumental of the attractive castle. Lebanon Cedar and a large sequoia. Next to the access tower there are the buildings of the Zecca which is the centre for the town Library and a chapel. From Castelnuovo go up towards . The castle dominates the surrounding countryside with its towers, the panorama ranges from the Monferrato hills to those of , from the Superga to the alpine arch. The first testimony to the existence of the manor house is in an imperial diploma of the year Moncucco Torinese 1154, but the present Castle Castle building was realised between the 18th century, transformed it into a 14thand 15thcenturies with rewor- sumptuous residence, knocking king and progressive enlargements. down the ramparts, creating the Here, in the 13th century Jacopo noble floor and establishing the fine da Moncucco was born, the last garden in the Italian style. In the great preceptor of the Italian Order interior the large ball-room with the of the Knights Templar before their frescoes of the Galliari brothers suppression. It belonged to different (1762), painters of the house of noble families; in 1855 it was Savoy, is especially interesting. The acquired by the local municipality castle sometimes accommodates and today accommodates the antique auctions. For Information: Gypsum Museum in which the Castle of Piea Tel. 0141 901641 workings and use of gypsum in rural www.commune.piea.at.it architecture of Lower Monferrato A few kilometres further on towards between the 16th and 17th centuries Asti the attractive crenellated tower are illustrated. In Moncucco the presence of gypsum quarries has been documented since the 17th century and this "poor" material was used to realise priceless ceilings in painted plaster still visible in many residences. For Information: Municipality of Moncucco Tel. 011 9874701 – 9874632 www..moncucco.asti.it Return on the SS458 road in the direction of Asti and after a few kilometres on the left the small municipality of Piea appears, dominated by the castle of the Counts who, in the beginning of the Castle Castle of the Roero di Cortanze panorama on Monferrato of the castle of the Roero of Cortanze in death. Oddly her room is today appears, that brings to mind the fairy a suite of the hotel that is based in tales of captured princesses. The the Castle. The splendid ground floor legend goes that the tower housed has a large hall with groin vaults and the ghost of a young woman, Viola the whole building is surrounded by Maria Galante, daughter of the a fine park established in the second th marquis Ercole Roero, who died at half of the 19 century. Crossing a young age following a sad event over it one climbs onto the bastions of love and death. Viola had fallen that overlook a part of Lower madly in love with the young parish Monferrato, a charming and still intact priest (the bell-tower of the church landscape . For information: is actually facing the tower); after the Municipality of Cortanze killing of this man (by the hand of the Tel. 0141 901470 or Castello di rejected young woman or by the Cortanze Tel. 0141 690917 enraged father according to some www.castellodicortanze.it versions) Viola, shut away in the Returning by the main road, on the tower, never found peace, not even right hand side, one arrives at the turning for the small municipality of Soglio. Arriving in the square of the parish church, we have opposite, the medieval facade of the castle, sole remainder of the 14th century building once owned by the Pelletta family. In the 18th century the new proprietors transformed the inside and the south facade as a country residence, realizing also a small but interesting Italian garden that is part of the historical gardens of Piedmont. The private castle is also a hotel and art centre. For information: Castello di Soglio Tel. 0141 992805 www.castellodisoglio.com Head for (between Soglio Cortanze - Castle of the and Monale in a few kilometres the Roero of Cortanze parts and making available beautiful rooms for marriages, receptions, small meetings and artistic events. It is also possible to stay overnight. For information: Castello di Tel. 0141 669116 www.castello-scarampi.it Between the plane of Villanova and the Roero

Soglio Castle Descending on the main road in the direction of Turin, after Villanova castles of , Casasco, d’Asti, turn for Poirino. On the right and arise) hand side, the building complex of where we find the Scarampi Castle. Borgo Corveglia appears: the castle th Cited in a document of the 12th was built around the 15 century century it was destroyed during the on the former structure of the hospital wars between the Guelphs and of San Giacomo, held by the Ghibellines and rebuilt in the 14th Augustinians and founded in the th century by the Asinari family. The 12 century. After the driving out stronghold then passed to the noble of the monks, the castle and the Scarampi family, rich bankers of Asti. religious and agricultural buildings The last representatives of the pertinent to the monastery fell into Scarampi family of Monale were two a state of neglect. The complex, sisters, Paola and Adele. Adele, a which has been subject to a long woman of great beauty, married the restoration, is today an ‘agriturismo’. Carlo Gani, diplomat, philan- The vaulted room with attractive thropist and already Spanish consul columns in brick and sandstone with to Turin. Since then the Castle has sculpted capitals is spectacular. belonged to the Gani family who For information: Castello di restored it, recovering the medieval Corveglia tel. 0141 948407 www.castellocorveglia.com From Villanova we reach Cisterna d’Asti passing by Ferrere. Here, in the past there were actually 2

Monale Castle date back to the 12th century and included the large water tank that gives the name to the village and is today visible in the large central hall. The building, in which one enters from the 15th century tower door, appears to be of the 17th century

Villanova d’Asti Corveglia Castle castles, both belonging to the Garretti following the transformation made family who exerted the investiture by the Dal Pozzo family, and from rights in an exclusive way. Today 1980, it has accommodated the they both still exist although only a Museo Arti e Mestieri di un Tempo wing and a medieval tower (housing (Traditional Art and Crafts Museum). a wine shop) remains of the Created to safeguard objects and Castelvecchio. The second, the traditions of the life of country people Castelrosso, became a refined it has become one of the most th residence at the end of the 18 important Ethnographic Museums century and traces of its western of Piedmont. To the sides of the side are still visible today. central hall are faithful reconstructions The nature trail in the park around of laboratories shops and the Castelrosso is enchanting. workshops, and in the cellars is the For information: Municipality of Ferrere tel. 0141 922008. www.comune.ferrere.at.it At Cisterna d’Asti the castle is built in the inhabited centre with a high 14th century tower. The older parts

Cisterna d’Asti Castle