Travellers’ We need you! Cycle wants your Travellers’ Tales. tales Write or email the editor – details on page 80 – to find out what’s required. New Zealand unplanned David Garnsey and Robert Davies improvised a route around South Island

My reckless lack of planning meant that we arrived in a city recently devastated by a major earthquake, and the route we followed missed out many of the popular sights. Still, we stuck to the two golden rules; no moaning; and whatever happens, it’s not my fault. However, pretty much everywhere you go in the South Island is amazing: there are wild landscapes, big skies and quiet roads. It’s Scotland with an Alpine-backdrop and Mediterranean climate (sometimes), unusual road kill, and odd-looking birds. We used the BBH hostels, which are brilliant, clean, friendly and cheap. If you can manage to stay for a few weeks, in several places, it’s The Way of even possible to do some chores in exchange for free board. The landscapes are, of course, the Roses breathtaking, but most of all it’s the Richard Chew and his friend Matthew rode their people that you meet on the way that Bromptons from to make the trip memorable. Possum Pete, for example: take your road he Way of poor surface, tunnels, Speeding through kill to his café and his wife will bake the Roses is pedestrians and dogs. Studley Royal deer it into a pie. Interestingly, she’s a T the newest It was borderline to park, I realised I had vegetarian. of ’ coast-to- call it a cycle route. done the same thing Whilst heading north along the coast routes, running We pushed the bikes 30 years before. The west coast, we were moved by further south than for over a mile before scenery was vast and the sight of a young Australian girl the classic C2C, which remounting and beautiful. I looked pedalling south, disappearing on the goes from Whitehaven descending carefully up into the skies near deserted highway into the vastness to Sunderland. We to Wharfe. , The Southern of the landscape after checking to see decided to ride it last Our second day spotting a curlew. Alps divide South whether we were all right. Island and make September to celebrate began with an heroic After an overnight the east much Phil the Australian, whom I sat next my 40th birthday. climb out of Settle. stay in , drier than the to on the flight out, said: ‘It’s a long On a bright We were soon off and we embarked on a west way to go for a little bike ride.’ He was morning, the Lakeland pushing again. The showery day heading wrong. It’s a hell of a long way to go. mountains gleamed weight of Matthew’s towards . Glorious But worth it. across Morecambe luggage, and his weather accompanied Bay. Our route that day inclusion of an electric us through the would take us to Settle, toothbrush, started delightful a town familiar to me some friendly banter. Wolds and the from childhood. The We rode on through ‘big skies’ beyond. going was pretty easy my grandfather’s through Lancaster but country around was a disappointing became hillier as we Winterburn. Despite overnight stop, but reached the Yorkshire the hills, I was our final short day Dales. enjoying the bike, soon brought us to New Zealand’s low population We decided to take a recently acquired Bridlington. After mean it is spread the alternative route 3-speed with touring celebratory fish and out, with long roads tempting from Clapham, which handlebars. chips and postcard drivers to ‘make the map warned us The day’s highlight writing, we boarded time’ would have a steep hill, was Fountains Abbey. the train home.

CTC.ORG.UK cycle 81 Travellers’ tales

The Camino, off-road Rob Batho rode the Camino Santiago de Compostela by mtb

As I’ve just retired, I decided, having dreamed about it for over 20 years, to cycle the ancient pilgrim route across Spain. In May, I took the European Bike Express from Dover down to Bayonne in south-west France, and from there cycled to St Jean Pied de Port, the most popular start point for the Camino. You can cycle the Camino on the road or follow the walkers’ off-road trail. For me it had to be off-road: Two tandems I love the absence of traffic, the closeness to the countryside, and in the tropics the demands it makes on my bike handling and endurance. Jackie, Steve and Lauren Bateman Some days the trails were very joined a CTC tour of southern India tough. The first day from St Jean up and over the Pyrenees to Pamplona e joined the The trip covered All our efforts were had over 5,000 feet of ascent, and I CTC tour approximately 600km, made worthwhile had to get off and push as the trail W of Kerala travelling from the by the stream of was so steep and rocky that my and Tamil Nadu after Keralan coast into the encouragement, front wheel kept lifting up. The hairy persuading Sheila Western Ghats and delighted shouts of 25% descents were also technically Simpson that it would Tamil Nadu, taking ‘double cycle’, and demanding but equally thrilling. be a good idea to take in visits to beaches, constant smiles of the I stayed in cheap hotels, which a 10-year-old on a trip temples, tea, coffee and locals we passed. I didn’t need to book in advance, where the average age spice plantations, plus Good weather, and one auberge (okay if you like was at least 50, and other points of interest delicious food dormitory accommodation and finding a willing pilot, as we went. The roads and the occasional snorers all night). Jean Harris, to ride our chosen by our support beer or toddy (local The Camino from St Jean to second tandem with crew were usually brew) at the end of Santiago is 500 miles and it took Lauren, our daughter. quiet, except for the the day added to me 12 days with one rest day, via Even in February, Steve, who is partially constant honking of this unforgettable the weather in beautiful Spanish cities like Burgos sighted, would stoke horns by all vehicles experience. So much southern India and Leon. I was glad to have disc our other tandem. to remind us that they so that we are now is excellent for brakes, front suspension and a bell. touring were there! planning to return As one walker said: ‘Thank you for Some of the next year with a ting-ting. I wish others did same.’ terrain was group of visually It was an unforgettable trip. undulating and impaired people challenging, plus their sighted reaching altitudes guides (without of 2,000 metres. bikes this time). If At other times, you are interested potholes or sandy in getting involved, surfaces brought please contact us at their own difficulties. [email protected]

Dropping through your letterbox in two months: salsa Fargo A scottish end-to-end next The ultimate rough-stuff tourer? Making the most of autumn issue 2013 bikes and gear hand cycling Next year’s products that caught Different cycling solutions for our eye at Eurobike disabled riders. For sure, this time

82 cycle AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2012