The Sorrows of Epirus

ILLU S T R A T I O N S .

k My R ecepti on at Pi erni . Fronti spi ece

Ar rocast ro Lon li e Greece Lon gy . g v g

F c a i ng p . 68

Near t h e Mu si na Pass 76

Ar r c st r eneral i gy o a o . G V ew 80

. L : ! i - f m s a D T n a C NC p S

THE SORROWS OF EPIRUS

THE R E TURN OF THE E PIR OTE S

Cor u 1 315 Ma 1 9 1 3 . f , y,

E STERD AY A ril 3ot h , p , the last of the Epirotes left Corfu for their W coast villages , from hich they were driven during the Albanian fury last N ovember . Ten thousand of them had then ﬂocked W to this blissful island , hose roses and orange trees make it an earthly paradise

at this season of the year . The cir cu mst ance s of the Epirote exodus had

been utterly deplorable . The Turks and Albanians had burnt their homes over

their heads, and it was only the devotion f o their Greek brethren of Corfu, and ,

indeed, of all Greece , which saved them 5 The Sorrows of Epirus

from utter despair . The municipality , the central Government and private i n di vidu als had alike come to their assis A tance . subsistence allowance of ﬁfty centimes a day was made to them , and they lived as best they could .

Then came the capture of Yanina, followed by that of Argyrocast ro and

Delvino . From that moment a great hope raised their sunken spirits . Greece was born again . Under the aegis of the blue and White ﬂag they were enabled to return to their

i it z a S enit z a N v . villages , Parga , , (There are about twenty - ﬁve of them scattered along the coast opposite Corfu , and all had been abandoned by the Epirote peasants owing to the Albanian menace . ) The victory of the Crown Prince gave for them back their homes , once and all , they thought, delivered from the terrors of the past . I watched the last of these exiles coming on shore at Santi Quaranta . The little 6 The Return of the Epirotes

port, which usually sleeps soundly enough in the damp heat at the foot of it s olive crowned hills , presented a scene of the greatest animation . Donkeys and mules in hundreds wound up the white road to Delvino and A r gyr ocast r o with loads of food for the troops and the civil p op u la tion . Houses , disembowelled by the bom bar dm ent ff , were now being stu ed with sacks of wheat , and the walls of the ancient Byzantine city of O nch esm o s swarmed with workmen and porters . This world had for the time being shaken o ff its habitual torpor . It really seemed that a great vision , the Hellenic vision , possessed them . The long nightmare was over . The Epirotes were about to realize the dream of generations , union with

Greece, their fatherland by history and sympathy . They could not bring themselves to believe that they would be j oined to an artiﬁcial Albania , alien to them in tongue, All civilization and religion . these people, The Sorrows of Epirus

ili anni s Vas o . Jo from Cape St . to Cape St , were Greeks , and every man to whom I Spoke, related to Greek families in

Corfu, Patras and Athens , refused to have any doubts as to the decision of Europe . They returned to Epirus conﬁdent of the triumph of a cause for which they had endured so much . HELLENIC NATIONAL SENTIMENT IN E PIRUS

C r u 2 M o nd a . f , y IF the real meaning of the question of Epirus is to be grasped , a pre liminary axiom must be accepted : it i s not the Greek Government which wants to annex Epirus , but the Epirotes them selves who claim reunion with Greece .

of The Opponents this reunion , in their academic desire to draw a satisfactory map of Albania, never seem to have given a single thought to this side of the question, which is none the less a vital one . Some have seen in the Greek Empire a danger for Italian naval power . They have suggested that, by extending that

ul Empire to the north of Corfu, it wo d enable Greece to transform the Corfu 9 The Sorrows of Epirus

Channel into a closed sound in which the

Russian , French and English ﬂeets could shelter in case of an international conﬂict and threaten Italy in the Adriatic . This is to forget that the Adriatic only begins at the Straits of Otranto , and that the coast of Epirus , whether in

Greek or Albanian hands , is only about two kilometres distant from the northern end of Corfu , so that a few mines could make it an impregnable lair for the ﬂeets whose highly problematical schemes

B e Rome appears to dread so much . sides , so long as Greece remained friendly to the Entente she could place so many excellent harbours in the Ionian Islands at the disposal of the Allied ﬂeets that it is really rather absurd to see oppositi on based on such slight grounds . The other opponents of the reunion of

— t oo Epirus with Greece and these , , are to be found in Italy—seem to have

of of 1 8 97 retained, the treaty which settled the boundaries of the Austrian IO Hellenic National Sentiment in Epirus and Italian zones of inﬂuence in Albania and Epirus , only the hopes of an eventual conquest of the whole eastern shore of the Adriatic . By thus refusing to recognize existing facts and persisting in the creation of an artiﬁcial kingdom of Albania , whose endless unrest would furnish the excuse for future intervention and possible annexation , they show that the Marquis di San Giuliano ’ s imperialism has still some fervent devotees .

If res nu lli u s Epirus were a , a piece of territory without a national soul which any conqueror could automatically make his own , the Italian policy might be regarded as not incomprehensible . But the truth is quite otherwise . The districts of Epirus which Rome wishes to see drawn into the future Albania are the hotbed of uncompromising Hellenism . They are more Greek than Greece her ” of self, one the most eminent professors of Athens University once said to me , and it is certainly the fact that the attach

I I The Sorrows of Epirus ment of the Epirotes to the national cause has been displayed in the most striking fashion for years . There are in Epirus si x great centres

: Za ori a of Hellenism Yanina , g , Argy

r o cast r o Met z ovo . , , Khimara and Koritza From each of these centres have gone forth men whose ﬁrst thought , when once they had made their fortune in a foreign land , has been to contribute towards the realization of the national dream , the union of Epirus with Greece .

M Ar sak i s . , the founder of the great ’ girls college at Athens , which has two thousand pupils and is the only centre of feminine education in the East , comes

Ch ot ach ova from , a village near Argy M / r ocast r o . w . Zapas , another founder

- schools and the Athens picture gallery ,

Lambovo is a native of , likewise near

r M Zo r a h o Ar ro cast o . . gy g p , yet another Kest orat i founder of schools , hails from , near Tepeleni .

M A erov St ou rnaras M . v and , the 1 2 Hellenic National Sentiment in Epirus

ﬁrst a Greek benefactor of universal

of repute , the second the founder the

Athens polytechnic school , are both

M o MM Z imas et z vo . oz natives of . ,

T osit z a Kaplani and hail from Yanina ,

M . . Banca from Koritza There are hun dreds of other less notable Epirotes who have bequeathed by will to the

Greek Government sums , the total

amounting to a considerable ﬁgure, for

the advancement of the sacred cause . The reunion of Epirus with Greece is the single thought . Deposited with the Athens banks are funds the interest of which has been accumulating for years by virtue of a testamentary disposition

which is always the same This money,

in case of a war of independence, is to be ” used for the liberation of Epirus . What proofs of the necessity of an

Epiro - Albanian bloc can avail against such overwhelming manifestations of uncompromising national feeling ! Is it suggested that because Ali Pasha exter 1 3 The Sorrows of Epirus mi nat ed a large number of orthodox families , he destroyed the idea There are Mussulman families of these districts t o day with a living Ch ri sti an grandmother .

The villages still have their Greek names ,

Pr o onat i s Ox at i s such as g and , which recall the heroes and exploits of the past . At Argyr ocast ro there are girls of Mu ssu l man families who go to Greek schools M and ussulman Albanians who , moved

- by an all powerful atavism , make the sign of the cross when they pass a Greek church . The past and the present are here united in support of a cause which has sound

history and practical politics behind it .

1 4 CORFU

Cor u Ma 3rd . f , y

HE midday swelter . An English

Medi a cruiser , the , was sleeping at anchor in the harbour . Two little

Greek steamers , which had come that morning from Patras , were busy coaling .

The quays , with no more shade than a few thin shrubs could give them , were deserted . In the town green blinds were drawn over the white and yellow facades ,

ra amu fﬁns and g , naked as the sun, snoozed M in shady alleys . The altese cabbies , leaving their skinny little nags under the plane trees of the Citadel , were play ing cards in one of the cafés next to three fﬁ Turkish o cer prisoners , who silently sipped their Turkish coffee like so many 1 5 The Sorrows of Epirus pensioners whose drinks are their sole daily

distraction .

At ﬁrst sight , Corfu is no more pic t u r esqu e than any other of these Medi terranean towns where the su n at midday is so overpowering that the far ni ente

is imperative . Tall houses in the Nea

politan style, narrow arcaded streets stacked with fruit stalls (the smell of the fruit somewhat spoilt by the stench of l a stream hard by ) , shops for cheap

cigarettes and picture postcards , barbers , popular confectioners haunted by millions — of ﬂi e s these and the dust which buries men and things alike and turns every bit

of green to grey, are the replica of our

own Provence in summer . Enchantment begins as soon as yhu

leave the town behind you . You enter a land of huge 00 p ses of wild roses invading the roads—marvels of colour and scent

orange trees a blaze of blossom , irises ,

broom , clematis peering out through the

high grass and among tall olive trees , 1 6

The Sorrows of Epirus

u eat h e d son . q to his , Andrew The

German Emperor , who succeeded to the Achilleion by purchase from the Empress

so Elizabeth , was not squeamish .

If the site is good , overlooking as it does the whole Corfu Channel , the style of this imperial residence does not reﬂect much credit on the Neapolitan architect fﬁ who built it . It is not di cult to under stand why the German attendant forbids

of No the carrying cameras . doubt he is afraid that photographs might be taken , which might lead to an entrenchment on his monopoly of picture postcards . Above his lodge door hangs a board with

: A nsi ch ts specimens , and the legend b Karten h i er z u h a en . Admittance formerly cost only one drachma but to - day the ﬁgure 2 in ink replaces the original printed ﬁgure on the entrance ticket . I am reluctant to think this is due to a smart idea of William II . What is undoubtedly a personal touch of him

of is the enormous bronze statue Achilles ,

1 8 Corfu

M in the unich style , at the end of the ’ In terrace . the Empress Elizabeth s time ” l ar the Wounded Achil es , in white m ble , now relegated to the middle of a too small grove, was there . The perspective of the terrace i s now ruined by this colossal statue , which from the waist upwards rises above the trees and seems to call for a searchlight inside the helmet , ’ ” like Bartholdi s Liberty . By way of contrast , a charming statuette , with the words (in English) A Coming Sailor on the pedestal , had been taken down and put away in a cellar . It showed a ’ ﬁsh erm an s small boy in a cap , seated in the bows of a boat . A certain mystery surrounds this de ci si on It i s . said that the ﬁgure resembled

- R the ill fated Archduke udolph , and that Elizabeth loved the little statue because

so it reminded her of the childhood , rich

son in promise , of the of which the tragedy i D d II. of Mey erli ng robbed her . William 7 dislike these memories Probably he did , 1 9 2 “ The Sorrows of Epirus

- for the pedestal stands lonely to day , as does that of Heinrich Heine .

Taken as a whole, the Achilleion , with its garden overloaded with statues of very varying merit and its horrible i n t eri or decoration , is not up to its repu t at i on . The Kaiser has spent a million francs on it, but it did not cost the Austrian Empress more than a quarter

h as of that sum . It been all wasted, if beauty is to be taken as the test of success . Nature is so lavish that the faults of the Achilleion are soon forgotten , and when , at the soothing hour of twilight , one looks from P ont ik oni ssi across to the

B oeck li n Island of Ulysses , from which is said to have taken his Toteninsel

as h e (though it was from a photograph , never visited Corfu) , but which more suggests the ideal refuge of tranquil j oys , one experiences an involuntary clutching of the heart . Before this serene and u nru fﬂed beauty the gravity of the present political crisis vanishes . The

2 0 Corfu

nuns of the Convent of Saint Theodora , in their endeavour to shut out the world

from their lovely monastic garden , kept closed the door in their wall on which Napoleon ’ s Piedmontese soldiery in 1 8 1 0 scribbled sketches of fashionable ladies

with sweeping plumes , and inscribed one

of N omi nata la B ella A mara them , adding

a few rude remarks . In the same way it is impossible to have more than a chance ear here for the lugu brious rumours which

come from the West and the Adriatic . The coast of Epirus hard by is forgotten in the sweet solitude of this enormous

set and superb garden , a j ewel in the I blue waters of the onian Sea .

Yet , in the end , the sense of reality

resumed its sway . Here in the ancient Venetian fortress there were Turkish

prisoners , rolling cigarettes , ﬁshing or

dreaming of the Bosphorus , in the shade of the ﬁg trees which sweep from the

hills to the sea, and here again a heart rending vision was an unhappy refugee 2 1 The Sorrows of Epirus

from Epirus who had lost her wits , having seen her son murdered by

Albanians before her eyes . In her soli

sh e tude , seemed to have recovered her

Corﬁot e s balance a little , for the had received her as a poor sister in mourning .

Then terror seized her soul again , and it was necessary for policemen to tie her arms and remove her forcibly . She passed before me thus . Her staring eyes seemed to be seeing the horrible drama again , and uttering low moans like a

sh e stricken animal , crouched to the earth and offered resistance as if sh e expected momentarily a similar fate . It was then that all the tales I had heard of sorrow - laden Epirus came back o to my mind , and a ﬂ od of pity ﬁlled my heart .

Night had now fallen . The chimes from a neighbouring church tower had ’ just announced eleven o clock . In the 2 2 Corfu

St . George Square the restaurant keepers

were taking in the chairs . From a distant piano came the strains of the duet from T osca. Corfu , island of delight , settled herself for sleep , while across there , on

the far side of the channel , the peasants

Ni vi t z a of , Lukovo and Pikerni were

encamped , trembling and apprehensive, in the ruins of their dwellings which the

Albanians had burnt .

2 3 SANTI QUARANTA

S anti u ar anta M 4 a th . Q , y

alana HE Z , which can do her seven

knots , took two hours and a quarter to go from Corfu to Santi Quaranta, which I visited a week ago . The harbour showed the same scene of animation as before the convoys of mules and museu lar little Epirus horses were climbing the hill laden with packages and sacks destined for the interior . Santi Quaranta is really the principal port, in a sense the only — port for the more southern r oadsteefd of Preveza does not admit large vessels

of all southern Epirus , with its impor

Ar rocast ro tant centres , such as gy , Delvina and even Yanina . In one month the Customs at Santi Quaranta did business t o the tune of 2 4

The Sorrows of Epirus

On the previous night the heavens had e j oined hands with the Greeks . Th re

were at Santi Quaranta , near the old

Byzantine walls , a store of cans of

petrol . The commander of the Turkish detachment had just given orders to load them all up on mules . They will be ” useful , he said , for setting ﬁre to the ” Christian villages up country . A storm

was burst . The depot struck by light ning and an enormous ﬁre caused, which was easily visible from Corfu . I was told this story in the old town hall as I was taking coffee with the Command

ant . When I came out to look for the horses which were to take me up country

l e I found a surprise in store for me . ﬁ entire population of Santi Quaranta was massed before the house , on which the

Greek ﬂag ﬂoated . They had learned of the presence of a Frenchman , and as all

the French are Philhellenes , a mighty shout arose : Zito Hellas Zito Gallia ! Zito Enosis Long live Greece ! 2 6 Santi Quaranta

Long live France ' Long live the Union When I realized that I and no other was the subj ect of this demonstration I admit I was somewhat taken aback . I could only bow, being quite at a loss to know what to reply to these good people, who considered me, it appeared , a kind of omnipotent being, who was going to testify before Europe to their Greek patriotism and whose testimony would be enough to assure the realization of their dream of the reunion of Epirus with

- the Greek mother country . I experienced a feeling of poignant sorrow at my i n ability to conﬁrm the good news and my

enforced silence . NIVITZA

THOUGHT that Santi Quaranta would be my ﬁrst and last experience of

as popularity , but a matter of fact it

Ni vit z a was nothing to my reception at , which will always be one of those memories which neither advancing age nor the f vicissitudes of life can ef ace . We had been riding for three hours over green meadows clad in a beautiful spring mantle, for those who cruise along this coast of fal n Epirus , with its steep , barren hills ﬁ g

sea to the , do not suspect that behind this barrier lie glorious hidden valleys , which

Turko - Albanian tyranny and barbarism have alone prevented from becoming a M cultivated paradise . y small horse had nearly thrown me head - ﬁrst into the bed of wa a stream with steep banks , but I s 2 8 Ni vit z a

i n high good humour and at peace with

the world . We had just struggled painfully by

problematical goat - tracks up the sides of a high hill whence the serried rows of houses in the large village of Ni vit z a could

be seen in the distance , when , in the middle

of a small olive wood , two hundred metres from the ﬁrst houses , an unwonted sight A made me draw rein , deputation from

was the inhabitants there , and in the middle of a group of twenty little girls , armed with immense bouquets of wild

ﬂowers , were three small boys , brandish ing two Greek ﬂags and a French one .

I dismounted, while an old man , with long white whiskers , came forward . In his hand , which trembled visibly , he held a piece of paper on which h i s speech was written, a moving speech , which treated of France , protectress of the weak and defender of the Right , and proclaimed that the unhappy inhabitants of Ni vit z a would rather die than not be Greek . The orator 2 9 The Sorrows of Epirus

ended with a threefold cheer for Greece ,

France, and the union of Epirus with the

- mother country .

Everyone j oined in , and hats ﬂew gaily

into the air, while the girls made a circle f round me . They of ered me their bou qu et s with such an effect of spontaneity

that I wanted to take them all . Some

of them were very large , made in the form — of a cross the Christian cross . Others were quite small , and for all ornament had a rose tied by a brown thread to a — bunch of p igar ws an exquisitely scented grass . The little girls kissed my hand and pressed it against their foreheads while giving me their ﬂowers . These were so numerous that I was able to decorate ’ e the pommel of my saddle, my horse s man , my hat and my pockets , and it was thus literally laden with ﬂowers that I entered

i z a Ni v t . A procession had been formed , single ﬁle in view of the narrowness of the street , and the Greek and French ﬂags led the way . Then the two bells of the church 30 Ni vit z a

began to ring . From their doorsteps the women welcomed me with the orthodox ” A s greeting, Christ is risen . we entered the village a little urchin came up to me and emptied full - blown roses into a red and black handkerchief, while the bells pealed with all their might . Then I realized the horror of the situa

Ni vi t z a tion . The village of which once 1 6 0 was counted houses , no more than a heap of ruins . On the evening of the previous 1 3t h December the Albanians had set ﬁre to most of the houses , which their occupants had hastily deserted at their approach . Five helpless old women and two men remained behind to be burned to death . One of the children who stayed behind with them was mur dered in the very room in which I am writing . t Every hing was looted or destroyed ,

s while the inhabitant , crossing the moun tains , reached the coast , where Greek ships were waiting for them . For three 31 The Sorrows of Epirus

t months they s ayed at Corfu , in the care of the Government , and when the country was cleared of Turks , after the capture

- of Yanina , home sickness overwhelmed them , and they returned to ﬁnd only ruins . Roofs were laid over such walls as were still standing, and they took up their abode in hopes of a better future , that future being union with Greece . Here they were, treating me as its herald and harbinger

This day , according to the Greek calendar, was the Sunday of St . Thomas , the Apostle who would not believe without seeing . I have seen and I believe that it is impossible to refuse ﬁnal emancipation to a people whom centuries of evil tyranny have not succeeded in robmg of their hope . I put the ﬂowers given me by the maidens of Ni vit z a in the recess for the holy ikons in my bedroom . Looking at them while I wrote on my bag k by the light of an evil lamp , their fran ’ children s smile obsessed my mind . This 32

The Sorrows of Epirus

French visitor were the emanation of some divine justice which could restore all

they had lost . I had to abbreviate my

visit , for I had to see other villages which ,

so f I was assured , had suf ered the same

fate . A last farewell and the party was

off for St . Basil , on the slopes of the hills where the ferns ﬂourish in the shade

of the olive trees . All this country casts the spell of the most soothing of the

beatitudes . But it is none the less a land

of terror and mourning .

34 ST . BASIL

‘ Nl E dropped into the shadow of a

valley, in the midst of whose grassy carpet slept a village hidden away like a medieval monastery . Here again we had the ceremony of the Greek and

French ﬂags , and the inhabitants with their hands full of ﬂowers . Whilst some worthy was reading me a little speech of welcome I looked at my national emblem

was Ni i t z a it the same I had seen at v .

These poor folk had only one , which they had made as best they could and were now A handing on from village to village . s soon as I left one place a lad ran with all his might by short cuts to carry our colours to those who were waiting for us further on . It was otherwise with the

eek for or Gr ﬂags , each village had two 35 The Sorrows of Epirus

im r o three . There was no necessity to p vise these at the last moment . They

were to be found , even in the days of

of Turkish rule , at the bottom some

drawer . I was the ﬁrst Frenchman , and

even the ﬁrst Westerner, who had ever been seen in these mountain villages , and

of yet everyone knew the name France , to which all beneﬁcent and liberal virtues

were credited .

St . Basil had been wrecked like

it z Niv a. In the church , to which I was taken , the Albanians had slashed out the

eyes of all the ikons with their knives ,

smashed the crude cruciﬁx of painted wood ,

and stolen the few modest pieces of plate .

h ile I made the round of the ruins , and JL f ’ the old women wept, the children of ered

me bouquets of wild ﬂowers . Even quite tiny babies in their mothers ’ arms clasped pieces of fern in their fascinating little

hands . There was such an atmosphere — of spontaneous giving among them a kind of fetichism of hope triumphant 36 St . Basil and I read such grief in the eyes of the girls whom I left without accepting their ﬂowers that I dismounted and received

the whole lot in the basket of my two arms . Poor folk ! The elder who delivered the speech when I entered the village had

: declared We have lost everything, bu t once we have the Greek ﬂag we shall

begin to live .

37 LUKO VO

OW we return to the sea . Even from a distance Lukovo stands on a promontory in a position not less ﬁne than that of Sorrento . All the villagers had come out to line the route, and there was even a police force , consisting of a

t o sergeant and two Greek soldiers , control operations . The village teacher delivered

le it i a speech . His voice quivered with g mate emotion, for he had only escaped death by a miracle . His companion , the

com priest , whom the Albanians had

elled — i — p to serve l ke himself as guide,

for was killed, and it was by great good tune that he slipped away into the woods . They showed me the adjacent graves of

Ar rocast ro the priest and the vicar of gy .

ss s They are by the roadside, and cro e 38 Lukovo

of made wild ﬂowers , the only legacy of N ature to the disinherited, mark the spot where the victims of Albanian fanaticism gave up their lives .

Ni it z a v . Lukovo, like , St Basil and

Hondet z ovo - , whose burnt out houses I have seen through my glasses , offered a spectacle of utter ruin, and while I pressed in my arms the bouquets of orange blossom , asphodel and roses , I had to

listen t o further stories of atrocities .

39 PIKERNI

HE mountain road from Lukovo t o Pikerni was impracticable at this time, and so we had to descend by an fol Alpine track to the shore , which we ’ lowed as far as the ﬁsh erm en s huts . The

French visitor had been expected above , and this move upset plans . However, ou r - standard bearers , who had come with us from Lukovo , did a little desperate ! signalling, and lo and behold from the mountain a procession began to descend with more ﬂags and ﬂowers , while all the church bells pealed in chorus . The sound came clear to us through the limpid air of Ma a sunny y day . It was something between the carillon of Easter Day and t h e of warning note the tocsin, a blend 40

Th e Sorrows of Epirus

of k on women Pi erni , massed the headland in dark groups which were distinguish alana able without glasses , watched the Z disappear . The bells sounded ever fainter as evening fell . A CENTRE OF HELLENISM KHIMARA

K 8 h i mar a Ma th . , y A T Khimara the atmosphere of plead ing apprehension which had im pressed me so profoundly in the other villages was conspicuous by its absence . The Kh imari ot es have never suffered from the Turco - Albanian yoke because they have always treated it lightly . For cen t u ri es they have formed a State within a

State . They formed an autonomous Greek colony to which the Turkish

Government had to dip its ﬂag, and if the district of Khimara , with its seven villages ,

Ki aro Khimara , p , Vuno , Drymades ,

Palassa Ku vesi i t s o u , Pilori and , and p p l lation of sou s , paid a tribute of

francs a year to the Sublime Porte , 43 Th e Sorrows of Epirus the latter accepted it gratefully if only because it knew perfectly well that if it asked for more it would get nothing at

F r imari ot es . o Kh all three reasons the , de act f o Greeks for many a year already,

no had anxiety for the future . If Euro pean diplomacy proposed to incorporate

E ssad them with the kingdom of Pasha , Ismai l Kemal or any other fancy Albanian potentate, they would merely maintain their long established independence . Where the Turkish Empire had failed t o get its decrees enforced it was extremely unlikely that the King of Scutari would

succeed . This is no place t o relate the history of

Khimara since the ﬁfteenth century, when ’ Kh imari ot es c r s d éli té the formed a o p , k with a blue and white standard , the Gree Cast ri ot i s colours , in the forces of George

in his struggle with the Sultans . Khimara was then twice its present s of ize . Ali Pasha, by his policy exter and n s ee e i n mination i timidation, ucc d d 44 A Centre of Hellenism Khimara converting a number of villages on the far side of the mountains to Islam , though the district formed a separate Greek 1 833 episcopate until . Even now the warlike reputation of the Kh imari ot es (their fame as shots is as great as that of the Swiss) has preserved for them the privilege of bearing arms , freedom from direct taxation , tobacco and customs duties . They govern themselves on the primitive ’ system of demogeronti es (the People s

Senate) , the eight village Elders administering justice and regulating the ff a airs of the commune . The affairs of the district are dealt with in a j oint session of the demogeronti es at the village of Khimara . This patriarchal machinery is quite suffi cient to ensure stability and keep order .

Latterly the Turkish Government, which had never had even a representative in the district , had considered it appro ri at e t o e p s nd someone, and there appeared 45 The Sorrows of Epirus

Kai makam h o a rocu r ateu r a , a j , a judge , a p , two secretaries , a few policemen and two f telegraphists . These o ﬁcials , lodged in two buildings specially erected for them at the end of the village, made themselves

wh o at home among the inhabitants , had little difﬁ culty in accommodating them selves to their presence since it was not irksome . Kept in check by the obviously uncompromising attitude of the Khima ri ot es , these Turkish representatives kept within doors and contented themselves with scratching busily on paper and denouncing to Constantinople the Phil hellene sentiments of their charges . From time to time an order would come to t , e imprison someone, but in view of h t h e impossibility of carrying it out, unhappy Karmakam referred the matter to Yanina , and it usually rested there . The Kh imari ot es exhibited complete indifference towards Turkish authority . Abroad they enrolled themselves at the o e of e Greek consulates . S m th m were 46 A Centre of Hellenism : Khimara

f Greek o ﬁcers , and, none the less , returned

to Khimara to visit their homes . Their

situation was obviously difﬁcult, for a state of continuous insubordination has

its dangers . Thus , when it was decided to call up Christians in the Turkish Army, seven hundred young Kh im ari ot es pre ferred exile (many of them came to France , notably to our metallurgical works at

St . Etienne) to playing hide and seek with the Turkish authorities . All of them returned at once to j oin the Greek army when war was declared .

When the Young Turk régime followed, there was a change in tactics , but the situation remained the same . The new Kai makam tried to divorce the Khima ri ot es from their Philhellenism by dangling before their eyes the advantages of a union with Ismal l Kemal and the Al banians against the Sublime Porte . This manoeuvre was unsuccessful . The Khim ari ot e s lent a ready ear to the words of one e e of their countrym n, a retir d Greek 47 The Sorrows of Epirus

fﬁ S i romili o o cer named Spiro p , the Veni zelos of these Cretans of Epirus . There could be only one political faith for

Khimara union with Greece . Any other combination was impossible . Was it to further the interested intrigues of the Albano - Turkish Kai makam that so many Kh imari ot es went to make their fortunes in Russia or Egypt and left hundreds of thousands of francs to the Greek Church and schools of Khimara

1 9 1 2 Karma/loam Early in October, , the M announced through the medium of .

Andreas Dimas , who acted as inter mediary between the people and the

Turkish authorities , that the Government was calling all the subj ects of the Ottoman Empire to the colours This commu ni ca tion , the only reply to which was universal

f Kh imari ot es indi ference, conﬁrmed the in their belief that war was near, for on this side of Epirus news is rare and hard t o e e t h e k com by, and, furth r, Tur ish 48

‘ for when John Spir omili o returned to Khimara on November 6 t h he had ah

‘ nou nce d t h at his brother was e ngaged on

e t h e ’ h imself k e e a proj ct, hough n w neith r t e h signiﬁcance nor the date thereof.

’ ’ " At eight o clock in the morning of " 1 8t h S i romili o November , John p , still

' asleep (in the same room in " wh i ch e I ‘ n made these otes) , was awakened by

H i s e ' shouting . wife jump d from bed,

t h r owm r e and, g up the window, lea n d

‘ bo from a neigh ur that boats had appeared , n ‘ and a gun had bee ﬁred . John Spiro

t h e of milio rushed to balcony his room , from which a magniﬁcent view of the

ul and whole roadstead co d be obtained , — saw three gunboats what the Greek x qall

“ — ' P otamos i n the southern ch anneli Th e w r whole village was astir, and people e e cheering uproariously as they made in M droves for the beach . eanwhile, there was consternation in the Turkish c amp e e e e M. Andreas Dimas had pr s nt d hims lf, ' of t h e k s with t wo old men . One Tur 5 0 A Centre of Hellenism : Khimara who happened to be on the neighbouring

St . Theodore hill , had come to give the ’ alarm . The Sultan s forty servants then issued from the Castello and debated as to the most convenient direction for M es ﬂight . . Dimas reassured them , ’ eci all p y the magistrate s secretary, who ’ was in tears . The Greeks won t hurt ” you, he said . After half an hour, a

was smart fusillade heard . In accordance with the custom of this country, public rej oicing was being celebrated by salvos . (I had had personal experience of this practice the day before While I was attempting an afternoon nap , some twenty patriots , who , on hearing of my arrival , had come down from their mountains , whither they had ﬂed at the news of an e Albanian attack, assembl d under my

off window and let their riﬂes . ) The cause of the enthusiasm was the arrival of two hundred Cretan and Epirote

M i r omili o S . volunteers under . p The T u rks hastily retired t o one of SI 4 ” The Sorrows of Epirus the buildings of the Castello (which was being used as a Greek barracks when I wrote) . The two telegraph clerks alone offered any resistance and ﬁred on the

- new comers . The Turkish gendarmes and ofﬁcials only surrendered to a detachment of Greek regulars represented by a naval ofﬁcer and a few sailors who were hastily summoned from the beach for this express ’ au purpose . The Sultan s phantom t h orit y , after several years of fruitless struggle, had ceased to exist at Khimara .

The gendarmes , the three judges , the magistrate, the ecclesiastic and his s ecre

h i s one tary, the treasurer and secretary , of the telegraphists (the other h ad been k fi \ illed) , the customs of cial and t he As doctor were duly shipped for Corfu .

Kai makam for the , he had vanished a fortnight before .

The task was not yet concluded . The n Albania villages , seeing the failure of t h e eek on o k ﬁrst Gr attacks Yanina, t o 5 2 A Centre of Hellenism : Khimara

heart . They felt pretty sure they would st never be reached . On December l

P li ori on 3rd there was ﬁghting at y , the ,

Lo ara 9t h P li ori at g , on February , at y

again . In the ﬁrst engagement the k 7 5 Gree s had killed and wounded , in 5 2 the second, killed and wounded, in 2 1 2 the third , killed and wounded . The k k Tur ish losses were not nown . The

of accounts battles , especially on the M shores of the editerranean, are con spi cu ou s for cheerful exaggeration as to 35 0 l numbers . We were against f they told me, sipping Turkish cof ee .

Not X being the enophon of this epic , I want to remember only two of the many

incidents of which I heard . For the last

of the actions in question, that of 9t h February , the Turkish regulars had 5 00 dispatched men with two guns . Of

these , the mule bearing one fell down

a precipice, while the other was stolen by Albanians in a village where the

Turkish detachment had halted . The 5 3 Th e Sorrows of Epirus burgling instinct had been stronger “ than martial ardour

r ss When this same action was in prog e , a only three persons remained at Khimar .

t oo All the others , women and children , were with the troops in the mountains;

' the women being us ed t o carry a mmunition .

‘ T o - day there were regulars in the

b t h e m district, and ehind them whole ass of volunteers , for all the men, without

of distinction age, bear arms . When I questioned an old p ali kari

u stanella wearing his f , the short, white, pleated skirt whic h is the national cos

—h e : - ﬁve tume replied I am sixty , and

I want to live to see us united with Greece . M ! ” eanwhile, I keep my riﬂe and he handed me a Mannlicher with the caution It ’ s loaded

All these souvenirs and anecdotes were ’ told me in John Spi romili o s dr awing s e t h e room . Sofas and chair align d wall, 5 4 A Centre of Hellenism : Khimara

on which old engravings , representing the

King and Queen of Greece , not to mention

Sadi Carnot , hung next to innumerable

- u family photographs . On a sealed p door,

- white washed over, someone had painted in blue the Greek genealogy of the

S i r omili os p , and opposite this , by way of frieze, an archaic fresco of Corfu in the time of the Venetians enlivened the wall . “ The company consisted of the local notables and military worthies . They spoke to me freely in French , while I toyed with a small rose which a young

M li o shepherd, y Bolanos had gathered ’ on M f St . ichael s hill and of ered me with a smile of pleasure as I came out from the t ll Cas e o . THE COAST OF EPIRUS

Kh i mara Ma 9i h . , y A HIGH wind which prevented the Z alana from coming from Corfu t o fetch me, held me prisoner at Khimara , for I could not think of u ndert ak ing, with my distinguished companion

and interpreter , a sexagenarian , the j ourney over the mountains to Santi

ul Quaranta , where we co d get on to the

Delvino road . Of course, the whole of l Ar rocast r o this region, from Yanina to gy ,

depends on Santi Quaranta , and ever

so will do . It is the only breach through

which one can pass . The coast region,

and especially Khimara , depends for its k supplies on Corfu, bloc ing the western You t o e horizon . have only see, b hind 5 6

Th e Sorrows of Epirus

is based as much on its . traditions and local feeling as on its geographical and t 0 economic situation . It is the p nail holding the blue and white ﬂag t o t h e

f so t ul staf of the coast of Epirus , and r y has it been driven home that ' no storm

f u could remove it . The whole lag wo ld come away ﬁrst Thus it was not merely for the purpose of extending her frontiers that Greece ﬁxed the limits of Hellenic Epirus on the coast to the north of Khimara : Khimara cannot be other than Greek because it is Greek already . The Khim ari ot es are famous throughout the Greek

b - Empire . They are a y word for patriot

- ism . They have to day earned the reward for their attachment to the mother country h er Greece demanded, therefore, that new frontier should start from Gramata

Bay , following the course of the little stream which discharges its waters there, u ntil it reached the crests of t h e Keravnia 5 8 The Coast of Epirus

M M ountains , where the summit of ount

K orl j , more than two thousand metres

high , was to be the point at which it

turned eastwards . This line had the advantage of sweeping into Greek terri

tory the hinterland of Khimara, for if the ﬁnal p aciﬁcat i on of this region is

intended , it is impossible to leave Khimara to the tender mercies of the Albanian

Kh im ri t es . a o mountaineers Hitherto , the ,

ever on guard on the heights , had pro t ect ed their villages against marauders , a feat beyond the powers of the less

ul Ni vit z a numerous pop ations of , Lukovo and other villages which I had visited in the last few days . But this state of war had not been without injuring the agri cultural and commercial activity of this

“ region . If ever the Greek Government is able, through occupation of this terri f tory , ef ectively to police it as well as hold all the vital strategic points , men will sleep in peace in these villages of t h e

Epirus coast . 5 9 The Sorrows of Epirus

Any other course would be reck lessly t o perpetuate a state of affairs against which the Ottoman Government was

helpless , and purely and simply to deliver up the peaceful and industrial Greek s of this district to the traditional brigandage

of t h e the Albanians , who would be all more brazen because their authority had

been recognized by Europe . e During my enforced soj ourn her , I collected as much information as possible about the life and customs of the Khim

ari ot es . I will admit that I was intrigued demo er onti ce by the institution of the g , the council of ei ght Elders managing f public af airs . I was told some enter

taining stories as to their proceedings!

Kh im ari ot es d The , who go about swathe in cartridge belts and never move without ou r their riﬂes , are somewhat similar to

Corsican cousins in temperament, and it sometimes happens that fatal shots

are exchanged between young warriors , prompted by j ealousy or stung by some

60 The Coast of Epirus

insult . There follows a regular vendetta . The demoger onti ce then play the role of peacemaker . They summon the rival families , and extol the virtue of forgive ness , just like the President of the Divorce

Court . If reason triumphs over the f passion for revenge, the af air ends with a

dinner and general reconciliation . Other

wise, the vendetta continues . Dinners are much in favour and evidence

here . Every rich citizen bids every day

eight, ten , and even up to twenty guests

to his table . And the favourite dish is

e a l agn au a p ali kari . How the mountains will echo to the

a neau a sound of joyous salvos , how g la p ali kari will be consumed wholesale on the day when a boat from Corfu brings to Khimara the news that union with Greece is a fact M eanwhile, we were without news of

the outside world for three days . A

brave fellow volunteered to get through . He left a short time ago for Santi 6 1 Th e Sorr ows of Epirus

all Quaranta . He had to walk after noon and through the night to catch the

- Austrian mail boat , which , coming from

Brindisi , called at Santi Quaranta about half- past nine in the morning on it s way t ! o Corfu . It was thus that my last telegram and letter reached France via

Corfu . The papers were sewn into a little bag, which he hid in his shirt , and f c he set out by di ﬁcult mountain tra ks , known only to the Kh imari ot es and the goats . THE HINTERLAND OF EPIRUS

Yani na Ma 7 i h . , y NIIIEN I got back to Santi Quaranta after my departure from Khim ara , which was celebrated by tremendous salvos , it was only the next morning that I was able to resume my j ourney to

Ar rocast r o Delvino and gy . This delay had cheated thousands of the good moun tain folk who had followed a whole night ’ s walk by a whole day ’ s waiting by the roadside , merely to shout Long live France and prove to me their Hellenic faith and hopes . Some of them had held out all the same , spent yet another night f in the open air, and this morning of ered me their humble votes hastily scribbled in pencil on a scrap of paper . They had ﬂa no French g , and a piece of white cloth 63 Th e Sorrows of Epirus

ornamented with a rough blue cross , the

was whole attached to a stick , the only

standard around which they had gathered .

There were men and women there , literally

in rags , disinherited souls , and yet of a moving beauty with their bright smile when I saluted their poor emblem .

K t ari ole Three days ago , said Dr . y , the commandant of an excellent little

ﬁeld hospital near Santi Quaranta , when the news ran round that a Frenchman was coming, you have no idea of the

excitement and pleasure . Everything was expected of you : liberation and union with Greece . You are bringing these poor ” folk an inﬁnite hope .

The former impression of movni g, er appealing pathos , was renewed . Aft

centuries of oppression , the Epirotes had at length heard the hour of deliverance

strike . It never occurred to them that their history was to be given a violent twist and that they were going to be put n under the Albanian yoke, a hu dred 64

DELVINO

Y arrival at Delvino , picturesquely situated in a wide gorge on the

Kali assa far side of the plain of , was an event the scale of which I had not antici pated . Two thousand people were assem a bled, with number of Greek and French

ﬂags . The slopes on the roadside were lined with little girls from an important

Greek school , all arrayed in pale blue and o white . They sang in chorus a go d

Marsei llai se attempt at the , while the crowd yelled Zi to Galli a ! and the

schoolmaster, surrounded by nine priests , including the Superior of the Convent of

St . John of the . Apocalypse, delivered a stirring speech to the Frenchman wh o 66 Delvino

se e had come to them . His concluding words were : Long live France ! Long live Greece Long live the Union l Long live King Constantine These words were taken up by the crowd in an outburst

of enthusiasm .

i s Delvino a town of persons , Al half of them Greeks , the other half

banians . The latter are not very clear as to what they mean by the country of

Albania . The President of the Albanian N Committee of Delvino , amik bey, in the previous year represented his fellow citizens at the Albanian Conference at M Berat , while the usulman mayor of Delvino signed the plebiscite in favour

of union with Greece a few days ago . A large number of Albanians whom I met —they are easily distinguished by their red fez—greeted me as cordially as the

Greeks . From inquiries which I made ’ during my few hours stay in Delvino , it appears that the Albanian population of these mixed districts have only one desire 67 5 * The Sorrows of Epirus in life to keep the belongings they have acquired . The idea of an Albanian kingdom

- is non existent . The population of Delvino itself is halved between the t wo nationalities , but if the whole district is taken there are only Albanians among inhabitants . The Alban ians of Delvino , who have only been M ’ usulman since Ali Pasha s time, have preserved the forms of their earlier Greek faith . They go to funerals with Greek rites and send their sons and daughters t o

Greek schools . I paid a call on the teacher who had conducted with such enthusiasm and success the chorus of pupils . In the schoolroom I saw the Marsei llai se still written in Greek characters , with the pronunciation indicated , on the black

. board . The teacher herself Spoke French She came from the Higher Grade School

at Corfu . She apologized for not having

done better . We only knew two days 68

Delvino

ago that you were coming . As I thanked

sh e : her for all her trouble, replied I have only done my duty ; France is our ” protectress and friend . TO ARGYROCASTR O

SHOULD have required to make a far greater mass of notes than could possibly be telegraphed at once if I attempted to give even an approximate description of the j ourney from Delvino

t r o Ar rocas . to gy Everything I had seen , felt, and experienced hitherto paled in comparison with my reception . Every ﬁve hundred metres I had to stop to pass under a triumphal arch , hear a Speech ,

x ack nowled e witness a peasant dance, g a salvo of riﬂes , receive ﬂowers or a gift of

- hard boiled eggs . On the pink shell of one of them had been scratched in French ” Union or Death . The enthusiasm was so terriﬁc that I despaired of being able to abbreviate for telegraphic purposes a whole series of cinematograph scenes , each 70

THE VALLEY OF AR GYRO CASTR O

A r r c tr M l o o as o a th . gy , y

HAVE given a brief but compr eh en sive survey of the astounding im pression produced on me by my j ourney

Ar r ocas ro from Delvino to gy t . I think it necessary to go over this same ground again in some detail, because, as I have said , my experiences were a revelation of the sentiments of Epirus and the real situa

tion . From Delvino to the Musina Pass th e

road winds round the slopes of high hills ,

which might even be called mountains ,

in magniﬁcent country . The whole way

along the road I encountered never - ending

convoys of donkeys and mules , going to Delvino to fetch the supplies that are

sent out from Santi Quaranta . There is 72 The Valley of Argyr ocast ro

no other road . The general geographical

i s system of Epirus strikingly simple . On the west side i s the coast strip from

Pr evesa to Khimara , separated from the interior of the country by lofty chains of mountains and therefore necessarily look ing to Corfu . In the centre of this coast a line is gap , Santi Quaranta, which allows the little plain (with Delvino at its far end and itself a kind of ante - chamber to Central Epirus) to form part of the coast zone and be , therefore, itself a vassal of

Corfu . After Delvino there is a barrier M of mountains , and at the usina Pass the traveller descends into the long and

Ar r ocast r o spacious valley of gy , which gets supplies from Yanina in the south , and Delvino and the Musina Pass on the north . Economically this arrangement is comprehensively simple ; too simple, perhaps . From the ethnographical point of V iew we have in the coast region an overwhelm ing Greek majority, though this Greek 73 The Sorrows of Epirus

- element is peace loving and timorous , except for that pugnacious and u ncom

o u promising citadel , Khimara . This p p lation has always lived in terror of the

minority of Albanian mountain marauders , whose impudence was all the greater because it was secretly encouraged by the

Ottoman Government , who found bri gandage a proﬁtable and easy source of

revenue . When it is remembered that in the district of Delvino alone there were

sixty - seven Greek villages and little farm ing communities ( Ch iﬂi k ) which had been

recently devastated , looted and burned , some idea of the depredations of the

Albanian bands may be gathered . The occupation of this region by the Gr eek Army resulted in the capture of t h e northern road from the most notorious M of the Albanian leaders , such as ohamed

Ni vit z a bey Kokas , who destroyed , the

ﬁrst village I visited . At the time I

was writing he was at Valona , where he was earning distinction by his remarkable 74 The Valley of Argyrocast ro

advocacy of a Greater Albania Of course he would be furious at the idea of reducing

his hunting - ground

If peace now reigned in Western Epirus , if the villagers returned to their ruined homes and took up their work again , it must not be forgotten that the presence of seven thousand men of the army of o ccu p at i on in this district (Khimara - Ar gyr o castro) was the real factor in this r esu rr ec tion . Greece , merely to discharge her

moral obligation to her children of Epirus , would be obliged to retain the 9t h Corps to police the district so long as Albanian bands practised their local industries out

A s side their own boundaries . for the

small farming Albanian element , formerly Christian and even now closely mingled

with the Greeks , it would regard as pure deliverance the end of the nightmare of oppression which the Albanian bands and

T u their chiefs , thanks to rkish helpless

ness , spread over the land . There is no nationalism strong enough to regard servi 75 The Sorrows of Epirus

tude, insecurity of life and the absence of justice as necessary evils . M At the usina Pass , where I was to meet a concourse of the inhabitants of all the villages round D rovi eni (the most

important of them) , numbering about one thousand persons , who had been waiting ’ since two o clock in the morning, you

enter, as I have already said , a region of f a totally dif erent character . Whereas

on the coast, and even at Delvino, I met Greeks whose gaze was constantly ﬁxed

on Corfu, men whom the propinquity of

se a a the had enticed to Patras , the Pir eus , — or the Greek islands of the Ionian Sea i n

short , men who were , so to speak , mere dwellers on the eastern bank of the Gre ek lake of Corfu ; here for the ﬁrst time I heard the cry Love live free Epirus The inhabitants of the coast district know

: Greece only . Their cry is Long live Greece Long live the Union and their minds are free from any national local

sentiment . They are Greeks who lack 76

The Sorrows of Epirus

- panorama , bounded by snow capped ﬁrs ,

- many and swiftly changing aspects , meets the road in the plains at the village of — Grapsi . At this cross roads two oaks lean

fraternally towards each other, forming a

natural arch . This had been decorated

and hung with ﬂags , and ﬁrst the school

master and then the priest , with his black cap on his head and h i s spectacles on his

nose, read me speeches about the libera

tion of Epirus , the support of France and

so the love of Greece . (After hearing many of these speeches I was now getting quite proﬁcient in modern Greek

Before the speech had ﬁnished, some twenty women in their Sunday best came

on the scene and formed a circle . They

wore velvet bodices with two - pointed

swallow - tail basques held in place by a

girdle, pleated white skirts like the

u stanella f of the Palikari , stockings of

- multi coloured stripes , and white head gear framing their faces after the manner

of our nuns . When the speech was 78 The Valley of Argyrocast r o over and the last of the cheers which followed the peroration , the dance began .

A s The men took the lead . they moved

as their feet , they proceeded to sing, at the opening of a minuet , two verses , which all the women took up with the same

advanc marked rhythm , at the same time

was ing to the right . It an old warrior

D av ela ditty of the exploits of j de Suli , a

hero of the wars against Ali Pasha , that

tyrant of Epirus . The women were by

no means the least enthusiastic . Some of them had bandoliers round their waists

and riﬂes on their shoulders . One in

su n particular, bronzed by the and noted

was for her blazing eyes , in a kind of frenzy .

She held her carbine all the time , and every now and then ﬁred into the blue

sky . She drew me aside for a moment ,

ﬂung herself at my hand and kissed it ,

r e om e d d and then j the frantic far an ola. The adventures of D javela were having

an unexpected sequel , for there was a distinct likelihood of the capture of Yanina 79 The Sorrows of Epirus

by the Greek army , an event which would indubitably mark the end of Ali Pasha ’ s outrageous régime We had all the difﬁculty in the world to get away and had literally to tear our selves free from all these good people , who were prepared to dance until mid

was night . But it already late , too late even to take photographs . I bitterly regretted this and continued to do so all

A r r o cast ro the way to gy , for it only comes to a man once in a lifetime to pass in such a triumphal car . The inhabitants of all the villages turned out on to t h e r o ad and triumphal arches succeeded one another . Li u ari I remember the good folk of g ,

Forit z a T ari ach at as Frastani , , , Haskovo , ) Gorant si D ervit sani o Vanista , , , the nly places I noted . Everywhere were pla ” cards : Union or Death ! (in French ! or Greek) , Long live free Epirus Long live France Some of the arches were moving for their very crudity , such as three logs with a decoration of laurel

The Valley of Ar gyro cast r o

leaves . A more elaborate one had em broidered spirals . At one place twenty metres of road had been strewn with

ﬂowers . At another the priest, with three

- choir boys , had brought the church plate to lend a little splendour to the proceed ings . At another it was a plate of jam (laku m) and the traditional glass of water that was solemnly brought to my carriage, else a where small glass of poor local spirits . But everywhere the young women had their best ﬁnery out and the j ewels they had worn at the recent orthodox Easter . They were drawn up in a circle on each

of t o side the road, awaiting the signal dance . And of course there was the n u

of ending series speeches , addresses , songs , salvos and bouquets .

There was one tiny village, the name of which I have unfortunately forgotten,

ul which numbered in all some twenty so s . Here neither speech nor dance had been prepared, owing to the small number 81 6 The Sorrows of Epirus

of possible participants . They simply gathered round their priest , the smallest children in front , and formed a melan ch oly little group at the foot of the double gallows which did duty for a triumphal arch . When the carriage stopped, the priest delivered himself of a few words , hardly that . I asked my travelling com panion to translate this short speech , and he replied : He is asking God to grant you a happy life, as you have come here to see the unfortunate people of ” Epirus .

The Sorrows of Epirus

that I climbed the hill, passing through a great crowd, which cheered and waved

ﬂags . We arrived thus at the ancient

u Law Co rts , a vast ediﬁce of archaic architecture, with large interior wooden galleries running round a central hall . The accompanying crowd here took up its station and shouted lustily : Long live France ! ” While I paid my respects to

M T z et z os the authorities , . , the Prefect ,

Yoannon 9 t h Colonel , commanding the

M T ru k i s a . Division , and aj or p , night fell His Eminence asked me to the Arch ’ bishop s Palace . As we appeared on the

steps , a veritable roar burst forth . The

- scene was almost fairy like . Thousands

of tiny lights stabbed the darkness . Tnl ey

were candles , and the result was the nearest

i they could get to a torchlight process on .

- Before us , two standard bearers at the head of the cortege had bound together the

Greek and French ﬂags . Children, lower

ing their candles to the ground , lighted the ’ v enerable prelate s footsteps . So we pro 84 Argyr ocast ro

ceeded at a solemn processional pace .

Soon the crowd , who were now adding Long live General E ydou x ! Long live the French army and even Long live

T em s the p to their other acclamations , began to sing hymns . First came the Hymn of the Resurrection : Christ is

s risen . He h a brought to life those in ” the tomb , followed by a chant the singing of which was marked by special enthusiasm because it contained topical allusions

Lord sa e Th eo le , v y p p , And gi ve Th y blessing

T o t i s eo le t h s e e . h p p , y h p E v er grant vi ct ory t o o u r k ing s ” O er t h e ar ari ns v b b a .

B z an It was an old hymn, dating from y

tine times . The Turkish authorities had

en no love for it, of course, and indeed forced the substitution of the words the

ul Now Faithf instead of our Kings .

all hearts could express themselves freely, 85 The Sorrows of Epirus and an enormous amount of conviction was put into the words

Ni kas toi s basi leuoi

’

Kata barbaron dorou menos .

It was barely two months since the Turkish Army had evacuated Argyr ocast ro and the Greeks entered it . The town was already transformed . All the paint and cloth shops were ﬂourishing . Every pot of a blue paint , every blue rag found

u c - rabi e purchaser . Even the m h a h s were M painted in the Greek colours . The usul mans , who were numerous here (Etienne Labranche once said that they congre gated i n the principal towns to assure themselves a numerical superiority which they did not possess in the whole country) , were perfectly calm and content with the new turn of affairs . The exemplary behaviour of the Greek troops filled them with amazement . They expected the vic t ori ou s a n rmy t o loot wholesale . As soo 86 Argyro cast ro as things settled down they were perfectly satisfied . cadi I had a state visit from the , the mu ti f , and various other authorities whose office I did not exactly know . They spoke highly of the Greek officials and admi ni s t rat i on , with whom they were on excellent

se e terms . It was only necessary to the familiarity with which these Albanians f and the Greek o ﬁcers , for they all spoke

Greek , treated each other to realize that this is no ﬁction . The certainty of order and justice immediately won over the

Ar r ocast r o best of the Albanians of gy , the only Albanians in this exclusively

Greek district . The smaller fry were i n

be s different . A few y alone, a handful of

- ex magnates with uneasy conscience, were still unhappy . They expected a day of reckoning . SOME TOUCHING DOCUMENTS

SPENT my time yesterday afternoon in running through and getting the gist of a growing sheaf of papers which

has already reached some dimensions . In it were all the requests received and all the addresses delivered during my j ourney . It included regular petitions ﬁlling

whole manuscript books , such as that handed to me on the Pass of Musina by s the thirteen neighbouring village , Upper

Lech nit z a Lech nit z a D ivra , Lower , ,

D ivr os A h i os Malt sani , g Andreas , Tsar

k ovit z a Kr on i M Keraset i , Lusati , g , usina , ,

m enit z a Grasdani and S . These villages

compose an entire district , which you

of will ﬁnd on the map east Delvino . 88 Some Touching Documents

The chief persons of each village afﬁxed their signatures to the following declara tion : We are Greeks and we demand ” union with Greece . I give here the declaration drawn up by the schoolmaster and signed by the

r i z ni two ephors of the commune of D e v t s a .

We are Greeks of Epirus , not N Albanians . othing can shake our deter

l n i on No w m at . that we enj oy the bless

u s ing of liberty , no one shall ever tear

- from the arms of our mother country ,

Greece . As the sons of Greece, we prefer death to the yoke of an uncivilized and ” uncultured people . A wafer on which i s a representation of

the cruciﬁx accompanies the signatures .

Lu n ar i The representatives of Graspi , g and Frastani write The schools and charitable institutions of this country are the work of Greece ’ and of Epirus , the work of the country s

own sons . This fact attests the sentiments ” of the people . 89 The Sorrows of Epirus

The village priest of Sofratika associates himself with his commune in declaring that it will defend its liberty t o the ” last breath . The commune of Haskovo declares that union with Greece is a question where

discussion and compromise are impossible .

Liberty is not a subj ect for argument . The commune of Vanista says We read in the newspapers that the

powerful ones of this world, misconceiving the national feeling and the sentiments

graven upon our hearts , wish to hand us

over to the mercies of a barbarous people . We have always fought for liberty on the

one side of Greece . No has the right to

tear it from us . The folk of Calogorant si assert t h e national enthusiasm for the blessed

liberty that they have achieved .

Liberty was the dream of our fathers .

T o - day it is realized . Greek Epirus is

a noble country , not to be confused with

barbarous Albania . We shall remain free 90

The Sorrows of Epirus

at your presence which is beyond all

power of expression . For you represent a country which is the beloved friend of

Greece . You represent France, which

always , at all epochs , has defended the

vital interests of Greece . Epirus has long f N suf ered under a cruel yoke . evertheless ,

our country, condemned to slavery so many centuries ago , has at last seen its

hopes realized, thanks to the valiant

Greek Army . When we lift our faces to the free

heavens , and breathe the pure air of

- liberty, gazing with wide open eyes upon ff its radiant light , we su er at the same time the pain of knowing that cruel and unchristian hearts inspired by selﬁsh id eas and interests are straining every nerve to drive once more beneath the yoke this

people upon whom the light has shone, endeavouring to subj ect a country purely Greek to a race which is unversed in

civilization and of a despotic temper . History proves that Epirus has wit 92 Some Touching Documents

n e sse d the birth of heroes who , ever since the period of the ﬁrst War of Independence, have shed their blood for union with

Greece . As Epirotes , we would rather lie rotting upon our barren mountains than put ourselves in the grasp of the iron

t rran claws of a wilful y y . But we count upon the liberal sentiments of our friends among the Great Powers , France and ff England , and upon the sincere a ection for us shown by their representatives , to whom we offer our tears as evidence of our gratitude . And with one voice we cry

Death before Separation . Long live the beloved friend o f Greece

- our mother country .

Long live France .

Long may you live, the representative

of France .

Long live our King, Constantine .

Long live Venizelos . Long live Greece

Long live Epirus . 93 The Sorrows of Epirus

This address and the quotations made above were subscribed by the whole

Ar ro cast ro valley of gy . The valley is entirely Greek, and Greek villages extend considerably fu rther north than Argyro castro . However, I was unable to visit them all . This caused keen disappoint

t o ment , and I began receive ﬁrst tele grams , and soon deputations of villagers from the country to the north of Argyro castro . One of the most typical of these telegrams comes from Tepeleni, a local

centre of some importance . As a

of Mos matter fact, it is signed by four

lems , the mufti , the mayor and two

h s sh eyk .

We hear that you cannot visit ou r

so town , and from a distance greet the representative of the French people and

bid him welcome in our country . At

the same time, we beg you to make M known our deep love for our otherland ,

Greece, from whom no armed intervention 94

The Sorrows of Epirus

he told me in a choking voice what crowds of Greeks over there in his country went in fear of their lives (here he drew a ﬁnger across his throat) , and he begged me to demand the inclusion of Berat in Greek

was Epirus . However I to tell him that e he must give up all hope, that the Gre k Government had not included Berat within the new frontiers I shook his hand in silence and lowered my eyes to

avoid the dumb question in his . RECOLLECTIONS OF AR GYR O CASTRO AND DELVINAKI

Y n 1 a i na Ma 3 . , y th

T is raining, and there is thunder I M growling in the distance . oun tains and lake have vanished behind the thick veil which is turning all the street gutters into torrents . It is a perfect deluge, one of those dismal days which you meet on a summer holiday in Switzer land , when you fly to your own room in the hotel , and stay there with no company except the flowers you have picked on the I mountain pastures . have flowers , too,

- I in my tooth glass , the only vase have been able to ﬁnd . There are roses , yellow marguerites and irises , some sprigs of mint

i s and other fragrant greenery . It a 97 7 The Sorrows of Epirus selection made from the mass piled on to my carriage and presented to me during

Ar ro cast r o the j ourney from gy here . The sight of them calls up pictures in my mind , and how could I better spend a rainy day than in putting down these recollections on paper for fear lest my memory , under the spell of more vivid emotions , should ﬁrst neglect and then ! forget them altogether To begin with , there is before my eyes the little girl who presented me with irises at Del i i v nak . There was quite a crowd there from every part of the district of Pogoni in fact there were so many people that they had built two triumphal arches , and I had to listen to as many as ﬁ\ve h addresses . The manuscript of one , whic consisted of at least three large sheets , was decorated with three enormous calico rosettes , red , white and blue , and ended with cheers for the French Republic , the French people and for Monsieur Pavé

Hu i) . It was aft er the ﬁrst address that 98

The Sorrows of Epirus

o ff The crowd fired rifles and cheered , making such a commotion that I hoped in the general hubbub the child would forget her woes and j oin in the gaiety all round her But sh e stayed where she was , on the step of the carriage, with her large round eyes now fixed on me, and seemed very unhappy, as though I had played my part very badly in cutting short her welcome , as though , after being chosen to speak for all her brothers and

- sisters , the school children of her village , the virtue of her little action were now lost beyond recall , as though the mystic ritual of sympathy were made invalid by the omission of a single word . Per

im r ess l haps she will remain under this p / g that she spoilt everything, until the when the Greek flag floats finally over i P o on . the district of g And, no doubt , she will never know that sh e played

her childish part well , and promoted the cause of Hellenism gallantly and

effectively . 1 00 Ar gyr o cast r o and Delvinaki

Now my mind runs back to Argyr o cast r o on a Sunday . At church the Gospel was read by a sergeant , who chanted in that terrible nasal voice which is so common at orthodox ceremonies . The Bishop ,

Vasilios , was on his throne ; the enamelled crozier on which he leant was

sk - decorated with y blue ribands , the

saw Greek colour, and , looking up , I blue wreaths among the purple hangings , and even blue shades cut out of paper on the candelabra . After the service , the faithful climbed the narrow, sharply rising street leading towards the citadel, to go down again across the market to the town hall . The crowd was thick , and soon overﬂowe d into the neighbouring alleys . Some speakers stood in a group on the terrace in front of the portico . These were the delegates from the villages threatened with annexation to the Al banian kingdom . They uttered their determination to struggle to the last against this iniquity, and their protesta 1 01 The Sorrows of Epirus

tions were received with cheers . As I leant out of one of the windows of the town hall to take a photograph , I was seen, and fresh and deafening cheers for

France were raised . i n Some hours later , as I was engaged

writing, a deputation was announced by

M Z ot i di s my host , . , an amiable old

bachelor, who , they told me , had left all his money to the Greek schools at Argyro cast r o and even taken the pre caution of building his own house on such a plan that it could be turned into a

college directly after his death . Hastily getting into a collar , tie and waistcoat , I

i - j o ned the visitors in the reception room .

- ol They were the school master , the scho

mistress and some of their pupils . They must have chosen the little boys and girls

with the newest clothes Anyhow , when I had questioned them about their parents ’ professions I found that two out of the

four boys were sons of tailors . As the

usual j am - tray went round I talked with

1 0 2

The Sorrows of Epirus attending additional lessons to talk of

Greece, and then going home with closed lips and enthusiasm kept secret in their breasts . When I asked the boys what they meant to be, each answered, A soldier . So I M did not keep them long perched on . ’ Zot idi s - arm chairs , and they were able to j oin their friends , who were drilling on the road below the fort .

Ar r t ro A last recollection of gy ocas . The commandant told me that in the last few days numbers of peasants had come to him to ask for arms to defend their freedom in case, after all, an attempt were made t o annex their villages to the king

r dom of Albania . He mentioned in pa t i cu lar u one woman , who came with a f ll bandolier across her breast . I have

ul . the b lets , and only want the rifle Give ’ me a rifle . I won t go away without a ” rifle . The Commandant did not tell me if she went away successful , but if he did not give way he must have had 1 04 Argyro cast ro and Delvinaki some diffi culty in getting rid of this

Amazon , for the Epirote women are as desperately determined as the men , if not more so . They know what will happen to them under Albanian tyranny .

1 05 MEETING THE CROWN PRINCE

BUT for the sixty horse - power car to which I entr u sted my fate I should have reached Koritza in time t o see the triumphal entry of the Crown

Prince . As we were descending a hill thirty - four miles from Yanina the brakes

went wrong, the car charged a tree ,

smashed the radiator and capsized , leaving

me . fortunately still alive However , I

had to wait twenty - four hours for another i conveyance, and covered the remain ng

- ﬁ e seventy v miles at a more cautious rate .

In any case , the state of the road did not

- permit of record breaking, and we were

quite satisﬁed to arrive with whole skins . The road winds along the side of bare as mountains , as dismal a lunar land

i n of - scape, a series hair pin bends , and 1 06

The Sorrows of Epirus

while ﬁve red - fezzed villagers held the

ladder for him . In other places we saw Mahommedans going about with immense

- was bundles of green stuff. There nothing to distinguish one from another . All spoke in Greek when they answered our questions or bade us welcome and a happy j ourney . It was seven o ’ clock when we arrived at

Koritza . The appearance of the town was a complete surprise to us . The wide boulevard and the two square towers of the cathedral gave the place an air not in the least Oriental , and still less Turkish .

After all , one feels quite outside Europe in these typical little villages , with their l shamefaced churches , which look exact y like the surrounding houses till the eye falls on the timid curve of the chancel .

Koritza , however, is a Western town transplanted to the middle of Epirus . The ﬁrst touch of Islam which caught our

eyes was equally strange . Looking from one of the windows of the prefecture, I 1 08 Meeting the Crown Prince

saw , silhouetted against the red glare of

su n the , softened as it sank behind the distant mountains , the white minaret of the mosque, with its sharp , conical roof. At the moment the balcony from which the muezzin calls to prayer was lit up with little lamps , for the evening service was

was beginning, and it something very

’ touching to see this sign of the mosque s participation in the rejoicings of which a

be Christian prince was to the obj ect .

1 09 THE NIGHT FESTIVAL AT KORITZA

’ w s T a nine o clock . Through every street and alley the crowd was pouring towards the little episcopal palace

in which the Crown Prince was lodged . All the houses were illuminated with the little blue ﬂames of candles set in a row

behind the glass windows . The sight was a little disconcerting ; it was so like Christ N mas in the orth of France, when they

e celebrate the birth of Our Lord . Ev ry one who went out of doors carried a lighted taper under the starry sk y of May through the warmth of a glorious

spring evening, and one was surprised

at not seeing beneath their feet , bluish

white in the moonlight , the snow of a

late December . 1 1 0

The Sorrows of Epirus

candle and crossing themselves as they

passed beneath the balcony, old men

ceremoniously carrying tapers , others whose tapers and candles were decorated with blue favours . There were young

Evz oni boys dressed as , and others , poorer, whose little robes of dark holland and whose tousled hair made them look like choir - boys at a Mass for all those whom the world has despised and rej ected . ’ There were babies perch ed on their fathers

- shoulders , dark haired girls in white man tillas , townsfolk in bowler hats and peasants burnt with the sun . Red fezzes , too , were in evidence, and their owners not the least forward in crying Long ” t se live the Crown Prince . Among lm ’ Mahommedans was one who attracted a good deal of attention , an old man bowed almost double , who leant upon a knotted staff and held a lantern in one hand . He moved slowly forward , while the crowd held respectfully aloof. On arriving before the balcony , he raised his eyes , saluted the 1 1 2 The Night Festival at Koritza

Prince by putting his lantern to his heart , and passed on his way towards the narrow exit which Opened on to the front of ancient cathedral .

1 1 3 IMPRESSIONS OF THE CROWN PRINCE

HE Prince invited us to j oin him on

ﬁr st - ﬂo or the of the palace . From there we could take in at a glance the

whole of the gay throng . In it were multitudes of moving lights and from it

came the sound of continuous cheering .

A little band was playing on the grass plot , and one felt as though it were the l 4 t h of

July . After all , it was the fall of a Bastille that everyone was celebrating .

- t As the march past ceased for a momen , the Crown Prince gave me his impressions . ” It is a pity , he said , that you could not arrive yesterday . I received demon st rat i ons of enthusiasm which would have l given you even more solid proof, if possib e, than this evening of the sentiments of 1 1 4

The Sorrows of Epirus the Prince to visit this historic centre of

Hellenism , so they had brought him these witnesses to a civilization of which Albania could certainly give no similar proofs . In Mo sch 0 p oli s there are 24 Christian i nst it u churches , and Greek scholastic tions which give instruction to pupils , a number comparable to that at Koritza , where , out of a total population of souls , are Greeks .

- At last the march past ceased . The Prince left the balcony and the crowd dispersed through the narrow streets to

‘ the broad illuminated boulevard , where till a late hour the people of this town , wh o only the other day dare not leave their

t e houses after sunset , will celebrate h ir liberation with songs of j oy .

Li askovi ki Ma 1 9th . , y Yesterday I was present at the recep tion of the Crown Prince in the mosque 1 1 6 Impressions of the Crown Prince

- of Koritza . An arm chair covered with red velvet had been set in the middle of M the building, and all the ahommedan clergy, surrounded by the chief men, formed a semicircle about the Prince .

was An address read by the mufti , and M then one by the ahommedan mayor, whom the Turkish authorities had placed

at the head of this community, though it

- is three quarters Christian , and whom the f Greeks had continued in o ﬁce . The address

breathed an uncompromising loyalty , and was greeted with applause by the whole

assembly . The programme for the afternoon i n cluded a visit to a dervish monastery near l the town . The Crown Prince to d me

i - i n about the excurs on to day . The ” of mates the convent , he said , are

schismatical Bektashi , who worship the

prophet Elias . Their chief carries on his

girdle a huge button of cut crystal , which

came , according to him , from the trap ’ pings of Elias horse . The monks , to 1 1 7 The Sorrows of Epirus

judge from their splendid cellar, are

Epicureans . They are beggars who carry,

on their excursions into the countryside ,

f - a buf alo horn, the blasts of which announce their coming and act as a signal

for alms to be got ready . They have ’ r ot ect on urgently requested Greek p , like their more orthodox Mahommedan bro

t ers Now h . that there is no more

question of the return of Turkish rule , and the only problem raised is that of N subj ection to the orthern Albanians , it appears that the entire Mahommedan section of the community regards the

Albanian solution with intense horror . They know they would be robbed and held

so m ov ed ’ b to ransom , they come to us , y the very natural desire for protection and ” security . Everyone at Koritza whom I was able

to question gave the same answer . Under the Turkish régime they achieved a cer tain prosperity owing to their numbers and their superior commercial aptitude ; 1 1 8

LIASKOVIKI

MAGNIFICENT view greets the traveller who emerges into the

of Vo u sa valley the y , north of Liaskoviki . The snowy chain of Nem est z k a towers

along the horizon . In the nearer dis tance the high hills are like pieces of

green embroidery , and the pearls , tiny villages about which Winding paths and tracks make a setting of pink and red

arabesques , the whole bidding the traveller halt and silently survey t h e

scene . Liaskoviki , which is built on a rocky eminence in the middle of this

panorama , was completing its decorations

when I arrived, and this morning, at least two hours before the arrival of the

Prince, the entire population without exception was crowding round the tri 1 2 0 Liaskoviki u mph al arches at the entry to the straggling hamlet . On the right of the road were the orthodox clergy, on the M left the ahommedan , the ﬁrst in green , ff red , or yellow chasubles , the e ect of which was enhanced by gold embroidery . Their chief carried on his breast the Gospels in a binding of purple velvet with old silver ornaments . The digniﬁed forms of the Mah omm e dans were draped in long robes of black ,

B ek t ash i s green , or white . The schismatic were there too , and upon one maj estic waist I noticed the famous crystal button ’ that came from Elias appointments , the one which had caught the Prince ’ s eye at the neighbouring convent of Koritza . If all the chief B ek t ash i s of the East ’ possess this relic , Elias charger must have looked like a glass chandelier . About midday the speedy arrival of the Prince ’ s carriage was signalled from the

of top the pass by a sentinel with a ﬂag . Enthusiastic cheers greeted him as soon IZ I The Sorrows of Epirus

as he set foot on the ground . The young

Prince kissed the Gospels , listened to the

addresses delivered in Greek and Turkish , and then walked towards the ﬁrst houses

of the village . The enthusiasm became

delirious . Armfuls of ﬂowers were thrown on to him and in front of him from the

slopes above . The front rows of the

crowd , both men and women , broke through the line of troops and threw them

selves upon the Crown Prince , kneeling

in the dust to kiss his feet , his knees , his

sword and his hands . The ofﬁcers had

to interfere to free him , but a few paces further on the same wild and impassioned

scene was repeated , a thing that no one

could imagine who had not seen it . l t h e A little later , when I spoke to

Prince, he confessed to me that though much the same thing had happened at

Koritza , he had not become accustomed

to it , but was deeply vexed and upset ” at these signs of adoration . Nothing, old he said, quite comes up to the 1 2 2

KONITZA

ITHOUT constantly repeating the

same story , it is impossible to describe the feelings displayed throughout all this country of Greek Epirus . What a pity it is that a few Austrian j ournalists did not think of accompanying the Crown Prince on h i s j ourney ! They would surely have been compelled to see the truth and utter it . The Greek exchequer is not rich enough to buy so much en t h u si asm mi to order , and though inti da tion might produce external respect , it could never succeed in arousing the demonstrations which I witness every M day . What is more, the ahommedan minority , which is asserted to be Albanian , must then have been guilty of con

e t empt ibl hypocrisy . When I went 1 2 4 Konit z a through Delvino the Mahommedans held aloof and did not come to se e me their consciences were ill at ease on account of certain misdeeds committed against the

Greek peasants of the neighbouring plain . I was not displeased that they should hold aloof, though under different cir cu m st an ces their action might have made me doubt the sentiments expressed else where .

b o s At Liaskoviki the Albanian y , that is the rich men with fortunes of anything from to showed as great enthusiasm as any round the Prince .

In any case, twenty out of thirty of them

i . e . have estates in Thessaly, , in Greece proper . We arrived at Konit z a at ﬁve in the afternoon . Here there are Greeks in a population of Konit z a lies at the foot of a great and lofty mountain .

The town, in steeply rising tiers , extends

- along the last foot hill, which dies away

Vo s into the plain of the yu a. The scenery 1 2 5 The Sorrows of Epirus

is Alpine in character . High mountains with many summits tower above the

Vo sa short valley . The yu rushes out of t a wild and narrow gorge , and a li tle bridge of audacious construction , shaped ’ like the asses bridge in Euclid , serves to link the two banks of the torrent and allows the mountain - folk access to Konit z a without the long detour made by the road from Liaskoviki to Yanina . The crowd had collected under the planes at the bottom of the town . The bishop , in a bulging mitre with gold pendants standing out against his purple head at dress , was the head of his clergy . These held tapers crossing each other like the supports of a tripod and tied round wit h blue favours in honour of the young

Prince . The road which we had to follow from the lower end of the town to the cathedral , was marked by carpets which the inhabitants had specially brought out from their houses . In front of every door was a sort of altar . A table was 1 2 6

The Sorrows of Epirus

’ and I ﬂed to my host s house , accompanied by my kind interpreter, the schoolmaster

Papas , who had been educated in our M French schools at Beyrut . y host is a doctor and he talked to me of the prospects offered by h i s profession in

- Epirus , a poverty stricken country, where the fee for a visit is two francs , and where,

Konit z a in the one little town of , he has to face the competition of four colleagues .

en ami lle He invited me to dinner f , and according to the Eastern custom , his sister and his mother served the meal without sharing it . They would have liked to see me take a second helping of every dish , and put down an enormous ” plate of yau rt on which Vive la France was written in powdered cinnamon .

Evening came ; a torch - light procession promenaded the town and riﬂe shots rang out . The gaiety was universal .

1 2 8 PREMETI

R OM Vo u sa the bridge of the y , which is the key to all these

Konit z a valleys , those of , Yanina and

Premeti , we have arrived at this last town . The reception has been of the

same triumphal character . As elsewhere ,

M as the ahommedans , as well the Greeks , have assured the Crown Prince of their unanimous wish to become Greek su b ject s ; as elsewhere there have been cere monies i n the church and in the mosque ;

as elsewhere, we have been deafened by

persistent cheers for Greece , the Union ,

King Constantine and the Crown Prince . Among other quaint incidents were an excited address from a woman who must have had the mind and character of a uff s ragette, the wild enthusiasm of another 322 9 9 The Sorrows of Epirus

toothless old dame from whom the Prince fﬁ escaped with di culty , and the Greek Anthem accompanied by instrumentalists wearing red fezzes and therefore obvio u sly M ahommedans .

1 30

The Sorrows of Epirus

ou r - I went for a chat with vice consul ,

M D u ssa . p , and his charming wife , who writes under the name of Guy Chante pleure . I listened to the stories both

of had to tell the siege of Yanina , and went to see the site of the gallows on which the Turks used to hang Greeks , M the place which . Bilinski chose to be photographed in with his wife and his

- - vice consul . I was taken to the Open air café on the outskirts , the fashionable resort of Yanina , under the shade of a gigantic tree , and from the hotel balcony I saw the Crown Prince arrive amid the applause of the populace . Then I packed up .

1 32 YANINA TO METZOVO

E left Yanina at six in the morn

ing, and as we crossed the lake ou r oarsmen were assisted by a light breeze which vouchsafed to ﬁll the sail .

- We reached the far shore at seven thirty , just as the guns in Yani na began to ﬁre a salute on the Prince ’ s departure for

c st r Ar ro a o . gy Our guide, the head mule teer , Costa, loaded our beasts , and the

- little caravan moved off, the vicar general of Met z ovo in the van with his vicarial hat in a tin box ﬂapping against his ’ - steed s hind quarters . The road is deadly long and tedious , twelve hours on horse back and all at the walk . It is a real ’ smuggler s track . Twenty times you have

- to cross torrents with water girth high , ’ and of Ali Pasha s paved road nothing i s 1 33 The Sorrows of Epirus

left except a rocky skeleton , of which the rain has denuded the jags , much as dogs

e expose the vertebrae of a corps . With ou t the excellent Costa we should never have kept to the track . It seemed a disgrace that the chief route of communi cation between Thessaly and Epirus should have been left by the Turks in

i s such a condition . It true that their opposition to its repair was dictated by ff a deliberate policy , the more e ective separation of the Thessalian Greeks from their brothers in Epirus . However, that did not stop the Greek force from Kala baka from advancing along this line and coming in sight of the lake of Yanina , where its eager progress was stopped by

D r k o the bloody combat of ys .

Met z ov We reached o at nightfall . Some notables were waiting for us at the entry to the town, and it appeared that all the afternoon the school - children had stood on the road with ﬂowers and the French ﬂag . The house where I was entertained soon 1 34

The Sorrows of Epirus

ill i se a se exceptionally well sung . After it, a young master read an address ending in the following tribute to France To instruct the children in ou r school in the love of their friend and protectress ,

France, whose shield has always been over us ; to teach them gratitude for the beneﬁts and services offered by you t o

: e our mother, Greece this is our bound n ” duty .

This focus of the national spirit, the gift of George Averof, was established through an intermediary appointed t o evade the interfering strictness of the

Turkish administration . Met z ovo is a small town with a muni cip al fortune of all given by i t s sons who have grown rich i n foreign countries and invested at the National Bank of Athens for the duration of Turkish

w off . No rule that the yoke is shaken , Met z ovo will soon have this money at its disposal , and her citizens enj oy making ” e ﬁne plans for the future . Here, th y 1 36 Yanina to Met z ovo

say, will be Liberty S quare ; there, the public garden with shady retreats for the summer . We shall continue the high

Za ori a road and carry it over the g chain . ’ When you come back, you won t recognize ” i s Met z ovo . There something touching in these gifts . For years past they have been coming in from lovers of their country, most of whom are now dead, and who have never doubted that at last their sons or their grandsons would hear the hour of freedom strike . Such cases

Met z ovo are common in Epirus , but affords the most perfect example . The town offered another interest to

di s entertain my curiosity . Should I cover at last those much talked - of Ku t z o

Vlachs , traces of whom I had sought in vain everywhere that their existence was reported

The ﬁrst Ku t z o - Vlach whom I had met was my own Costa, excellent fellow . As we passed by Vu t ono si and the villagers

ou r across the river ﬁred salvos in honour, IS7 The Sorrows of Epirus

Costa borrowed the riﬂe from the gen darme who escorted us and emptied the

magazine into the air, shouting Zito ” Hellada - . Except for his Greco Vlach

patois , I should never have guessed that he was in any way different from his

u est l o ned Epirote companions . I q the schoolmistress and the schoolmaster at Met z ovo on this subj ect I have 25 0 ” 200 pupils , said the former . We have ” boys , said the latter . The children

of Ku t z o - Vlach origin and the pure

Greeks are absolutely indistinguishable .

There is no Ku t z o - Vlach school ; no one has ever even dreamt of the possibility

of establishing one , for in all the town we have never known more than three persons who professed Ku t z o - Vlach na lit t i ona . y What is more , they were three brothers returned from Rumania , whither they had been attracted by university

scholarships . So little conﬁdence has i n spired their propaganda that it has not ot g beyond the most rudimentary stage . 1 38

TO THE PLAIN OF THESSALY

K M 2 t alabaka a 4 h . , y

- M EVEN THIRTY R . The Khan of

Trypa . For the last ﬁve hours we had followed the downward course of

Mal k assi the a river under pouring rain .

The Khan had a deserted air, and it required the shouts of our muleteers to mak e two heads pop out of a low door .

Get some wood and light a ﬁre . The ” gentlemen are cold, ordered the leader e of the caravan . We climbed up a cr aking stair to a kind of attic which was to be our lodging, and not a very inviting one .

The walls were badly whitewashed , and in the ceiling and ﬂoor we suspected legions of bugs . At last a ﬁre gleamed on t o the hearth, and we began dry our things nk systematically, next spri ling with 1 40 T o the Plain of Thessaly

’ Keating s the mat and sheep - skin on

which we were to sleep . Two pots of

jam, half a loaf of bread and the dregs of a bottle of Macedonian muscatel were

our meal , and it was soon over . From

below came the murmur of voices . All very much in the style of Paul Louis

Courier, this forced halt at a villainous

inn in a deserted valley . m a. . It was not hard to wake up .

Dawn was beginning to break , and the cold of early morning penetrated the

cracks of the wooden windows . Besides , — other insects horrible little monsters, against which Keating ’ s was ineffective

had begun to attack us . There was nothing to do but get out of the poverty

stricken place , where , no doubt , we shall

be the last European guests , since work is already actively going on on the road

along the other side of the valley . It is

a ﬁne carriageable road, which will j oin the railway terminus at Kalabaka t o Met z ovo Za ori a across the g chain . The 1 41 The Sorrows of Epirus

sheep - skin on which I had slept so badly was put back on the pack saddle of my mule , and we resumed our way beneath a ﬁne rain fresh with all the freshness of of morning . At this time day the valley

is delightful . From the bushes comes the odour of damp verdure, and under the tall plane groves sound at intervals the voices of the cuckoo and the shep ” of ul herd bird . One our m eteers told

- us a folk story of this last bird . Once upon a time there was a shepherd who went to sleep and slept three days

and three nights . When he woke up ,

his ﬂock had vanished . He sought it

in vain over the mountains . Then the w wolves came and said, We know here e your ﬂock is . Promise to let us tak a

few lambs , and we will tell you where

’ to look . The shepherd promised . But

c r e when he ame to his ﬂock , his dog p ro ach e d him for making so horrible a

bargain , and , as a punishment , left him .

e t o The wolv s came claim their due , and 1 42

The Sorrows of Epirus

hills , the old Turkish territory where, before the war of liberation a few months

one e ago, no ventured to go . The scen l wou d have tempted an artist . In front went some mares and their foals ; then the pack animals piled up with pyramids of

obj ects of all shapes and sizes, from the middle of which stuck out the head of

a fat infant , whose body was invisible,

corded up in a mass of rugs . The babies on the mules held cats or cocks in their

arms , or a couple of fowls tied together by the feet and ﬂapping and struggling till they looked like a Valkyrie helmet ’ come to life on the child s head . Women with bare feet carried long wooden

an u r ew cradles with tiny babies inside, d f the thread off their distaffs as they walked

along . The men shouted , Shu, shu, ” t wo shu , to urge on their beasts , and

large dogs , with powerful j aws and grey

and white coats , trotted beside the caravan and stopped beside a torrent for fear of

wetting their paws . 1 44 To the Plain of Thessaly

As we descended the valley towards f the great plain of Thessaly, it of ered more and more signs of the nearness of

Cornﬁelds civilization . became frequent ,

and ﬂocks and herds abounded . Beside

the path , in little niches in the rock , were

icons , honeycombed by the weather, which

- b await the passer y , who crosses himself

and drops h i s alms in a little money - box under the common protection of all

travellers . At the Khan of the Fair Fountain the hostess began to bring out all her

crockery, big glasses for the fresh water

of m ast ik h a her spring, little glasses for , f and tiny cups for cof ee . The rain had

stopped . On the bastions of Pindus , long ﬂeecy wreaths of morning vapour

slowly rose , displaying in sudden glimpses the sloping summits covered by snow

. during the night .

I 45 THE METEORA

BOUT two hours before reaching

M b e Kalabaka , the eteora rocks

came visible . These summits , with tops

D rei z i nnen M like the as seen from isurina,

are the guardians of the plain , standing at the end of the mountainous valley . There is some presumption in pretending M to discover the eteora, one of the curiosities , even one of the wonders of the world . But surely it is the heritage of successive generations to discover again with indefatigable perseverance every thing that has been extolled by their predecessors . Some dreadful cataclysm of prehistoric days must have poured an irresistible torrent on t o this mountain mass to wash away all the soil and leave 1 46

The Sorrows of Epirus

shells upon an ocean reef, and one wants the sure foot of an expert Alpine climber to ascend to the old cathedral of the a Emperor Andronicus Pal eologus , and

col from it to the , which gives access to M the eteora . Gives access is , perhaps , hardly the phrase, since to reach them one must still undergo either the test of the ladder or that of the net . The ladders are for the most part practically vertical . They require a head that knows not dizziness , an unquestioning faith in their solidity , and the fist of a sailor . The net demands an ingenuous confidence in the rope by which it is hauled up . The shouts of the native who accom pani e d us finally brought an answer from the monks of Agia Triadha , and soon, from the wooden balcony which overhung the gulf, I saw descend a large cord net, like those which marketers fill with vegetables . It was hung on a huge iron

hook at the end of a rope , and on reaching th e earth was opened to admit me seated 1 48 The Meteora

- cross legged . The loops were drawn to gether above my head , passed over the —m hook , and Haul away y ascent began . For the ﬁrst minute it is better ’ to close one s eyes , because the net Spins like a top , a movement which is extremely

unpleasant . Afterwards it is better to ’ Open one s eyes , because, as it swings , the net comes from time to time into somewhat rude contact with the

rocky wall . Chance brought me to the

top back foremost . I felt hands grip

the net and draw it inside . Someone

gave an order, the rope was slackened , and I found myself Sitting on the ground

with ﬁve monks standing round , who

welcomed me as I emerged from the net . A powerful winch had been responsible

for my gradual elevation .

Arriving at the Holy Trinity , I felt the illusion that I was calling on a little

congregation of Simeon Stylites , all under vow after admission to the monastery never again to descend among human 1 49 The Sorrows of Epirus

frailties . This illusion took wings at my

ﬁrst question . The monks of Holy ” B arlaam Trinity , like those of and

St . Stephen, are often in Kalabaka . Some of them have only thought it incumbent to Show loyalty to their re ligi ou s refuge by being buried there . I was shown a large crack in the rock where a few mountain plants had managed to take root , and where some bits of wood marked the last resting- place of these monks .

Among the living who received me , I found no trace of any poetic sentiment responding to the wonderful Situation of this monastery . In any case, the lower

so Orthodox clergy is recruited from , inferior a class that anything else must have surprised me . They are old ser vants , old gendarmes , who feel some ﬁne day ﬁlled with a vocation for the con

e t emplat i v life . I should have wished to of ﬁnd there a little community thinkers , f wh o s er o the disillusioned, had lo t ev y 1 5 0

THE CORFU CHANNEL

A th ens Ma 28th . , y .N arriving at Athens I got at last some French newspapers , of which I have been deprived for the last three weeks . By reading them I have been brought to revert to certain points which I have only partially touched upon in my letters and telegrams , considering them too obvious to give rise to serious difference of opinion .

T em s Ma 1 8t h n e In the p of y our co , sp ondent at Rome summarized the views of an Italian political personage , one of those best able to inform him on the attitude of Italian official circles towards the question of the Corfu channel . This gentleman is made to say : The con figuration of the channel between Corfu 1 5 2 The Corfu Channel and the mainland makes it the most magnificent sheltered anchorage in the ” Mediterranean . Now chance has put me in a position Ma 7 t h to prove the contrary . On y last ,

sea Not a storm broke over the Ionian . only was no vessel able to leave Corfu to risk the passage through the northern

strait , but in the harbour of Corfu itself, the safest place in all this magniﬁcent sh eltered - roadstead , the picket boats of the English cruiser Medea could not leave

the ship , nor could those which were at

the quay return . So much for the safety f o the anchorage .

A S to the northern strait , through which

I have passed in each direction, every sailor knows that about a mile from the coast of Corfu it is barred by a series of

reefs , upon which stands a lighthouse . The passage between these reefs and the island is only practicable for vessels of i n shallow draught . The larger vessels , ” cluding the Austrian Lloyd , must hug 7 5 3 The Sorrows of Epirus

the coast of Epirus . The geographical conﬁguration of the strait thus makes the passage so narrow and dangerous that to be master of it there is no necessity to hold the coast of Epirus and build forti

i ns M ﬁcat o upon it . ines in the channel would forbid both entrance and egress . Unless Italy asks to be entrusted with the construction , on behalf of Albania , of forts upon the coast which She claims for that kingdom , it is hard to imagine a f principality , o fspring of the will of the six great Powers and under their j oint protection , taking such a resolution, of which the only obj ect would be to confer upon one group of these protecting Powers a strategic advantage as against the oth er.

Reason , then , would leave the Epirote coast in the latitude of the northern strait as it is at present . If it becomes

fort iﬁ Albanian , it is impossible to allow cations obviously directed against certain

great P owers whereas , if it becomes Greek , Greece is committed in advance to an 1 5 4

The Sorrows of Epirus tically it be Greek or Albanian makes no difference to the laying of mines by warships in the northern strait , and it will take more than a few snipers hidden among the brushwood of this precipitous coast to prevent the passage of battle ships and torpedo craft of any nation .

Neutralization under international control , as with the navigation of the Danube , offers Italy a far more effective guarantee

“ than the mere word Albania printed

across a map . M oreover, as I said at the beginning, the Corfu channel is the most insecure

Shelter that a ﬂeet could choose . When 1 86 3 England ceded Corfu to Greece in , surely the Admiralty which has a cert ain reputation would have advised against

the gift if it had possessed strategic value . The Italian memorandum on the stra t egi c importance of the Corfu channel goes so far as to call as evidence Queen

Teuta of Illyria , who used Corfu as the 230 B C base of her operations in . . There 1 5 6 The Corfu Channel must indeed be a shortage of arguments if it i s necessary to go back to the days of N ’ galleys , or even of apoleon s three ! deckers After all , the Speed of dread noughts and high - sea torpedo craft does involve some modiﬁcation of naval stra t e gy , and looking at this same map of the Ionian Sea which our Rome c orr e sp on ’ se e dent s informant showed him , we only a few hours ’ steaming further from the channel of Otranto such anchorages as those of Argostoli (Cephalonia) and

A carnani a Astakos ( ) , in which the British Mediterranean squadron constantly ap

it o pears , though never man euvres in the

Corfu channel . Greek statesmen cannot forget that only after Italy had declared the bay and

town of Valona alone to concern her , did

she raise the question of the Corfu channel , the importance of which could be no sudden discovery if it has been obvious

since the days of Queen Teuta . It is impossible for them t o avoid the IS7 Th e Sorrows of Epirus

suspicion that , in spite of all assertions to the contrary and all protestations that the question of the Corfu channel involves

h as no territorial interests , it only been

invented as a last resource , disguised behind a bewildering mask of high naval

problems , to secure the aggrandizement

of the principality of Albania , which thus remaining nobody ’ s child might one

so as i s day , far the southern part con

cerned , be adopted by Italy .

The Greeks ask how, if Italy really has at heart the happiness of the races who

sh e inhabit Epirus , can refuse them the free choice of the nationality to which they will belong in order to impose on them a Swiss cantonal system . Switzer land can maintain the confederation as a living thing owing to the unity of thought and idea which pervades it and to the ripe wisdom shown by its governments through centuries of experience . In Al bania , which is characterized by a tradi tion of rebellion against authority, and 1 5 8

The Sorrows of Epirus

has ever discouraged , I understand the boy who , on the morning of the surrender

Bi sani E vz oni of , as the ﬁrst appeared at ’ St . John s , ran to the cemetery and , as he ﬁred his revolver above his father ’ s — grave the father whose legacy had been the hope of a freedom which he himself — had not lived to see cried aloud Father ,

Father, the Greeks have come

T HE EN D

i n s ton S u r r e . P r i n t ed at Th e Ch aim! Ri ver P r ess . K g . y PAT ERNOSTE R HO U E S , PATER N T E R R w OS o , LO ND N E O , C .

an u ar 1 7 J y , 9 8 .

’ Messr H T s. URS 8 BLACKEIT S ANNO UNC EMENT S

F R THE PRIN F 1 1 O S G O 9 8.

A n i mpo r t ant boo k of i mmedi at e i nt e r es t on t h e Ce nt r al

pe rs onag e of t h e G r e at W ar .

Willi am Hoh e nz olle rn C o .

B y E D WA R D LYE LL FO X

I n wn 00 c o h net . cro 8 , l t , 63 .

T h e au t h o r ai ms t o p resent a fai th fu l and reali sti c ’ f n rs n li Hi s accou nt o t h e Kai ser s ma y si ded p e o a ty . h ara t er st u d i s based on fi rst h and mat eri al for h e h as c c y , i si t ed erman t h ree ti mes si n e t h e ou t break of war and v G y c , f i f n In a su es was accord ed u nu su al ac li ti es or observati o . cc si on of i nti mat e and vi vi d ch ap t ers Wi lli am Hoh enz ollern i s re ealed as Em eror G eneral D i lomat Poli ti i an and as v p , , p , c , m n Hi s r l ti n wi t h t e o rt and th e R ei h sta and a a . e a o s h C u c g , t owards h is fri ends and h i s fami l are resent ed in d et ai l y , p , wh ile h i s at ti t u d e t oward s Ameri ca and B elgi u m and t h e li o f fri h t f ln ss ar nlar ed n th er h a t ers po cy g u e e e g u po . O c p d es ri be t h e Kai ser amon h i s soldi ers and h i s eo le and c g p p , ‘ ‘ i nclu de an analysi s o f h i s p ersonali t y as t h e su p erman of erman h iloso h Th rou h ou t t h e i nt enti on h as been G p p y . g , t r eal i m s n i n Th e book also o ev h a a nt e sely vi tal reali ty . comp rises an i nt i mat e st ory of t h e men wh o cont rol t h e erman o ernment and of t h e lans of d ece ti on and G G v , p p aggressi on wh i ch finally drove t h e Uni t ed Stat es int o war . ’ In addi ti on i t gi ves an act u al pi ct u re of Germany s economi c ondi ti on and i l r r T o u nd erstand t h i s ant i c soc a st u ct u e . d emocrati c ré gi me i s t o u nderstand th e real enemy we are n figh ti g . A br i lliant li t t le book wh i ch wi ll appe al t o mu lt i t u de s of

me n and wo me n.

A bas i s for a r e ve r en t , rati onal

and i nsp i ri ng r elig i o u s fai th .

D o we Ne e d a

Ne w Ide a o f G o d

B M N D H y E D U . RE EMAN

I n crown 8vo , cloth , 38 . 6 d . net .

Th e p u rp ose of t h e book i s p racti cal rath er th an con t i s ou t of a sense of t h e need for fr n t roversi al . I a a k revi ew of t h e sancti ons of ou r common reli gi ou s b eli efs t h at t h e au t h or a wri t t en In h i s Prefa e h e sa s Th at t h ere i s need f r h s . c y o a rei nt erp ret at i on of li fe and a rest at ement of reli gi ou s fai t h i n t h e li gh t of d emocrat i c ou t reach and i mp u lse wou ld seem i l T h ere i s a wh ole wo rld f i u nqu est onab e . o d fference bet ween t h e ph ilosoph y and wo rld - vi ew of t h e ages t h at gave u s t h e h i st ori c creed s of Ch ri st endom and t h e ph ilosoph y and

- f t d a A nd i n t h e i t lf world vi ew o t h e p resen y . book se h e says In wh at ki nd of God we can beli eve i s a vi t al qu esti on for mank i nd and one wi t h er d eﬁni t e and ra ti al be ari n s , v y p c c g r - r blem of li i He arefu ll st t u p on t h e eve y day p o s v ng . c y a es ’ t h e old on e t i on of wh at i s onno t ed b t h e word od i c c p c y G , and t h en measu res and comp ares t h e li fe force by t h e common f f i f Hi h t r n t h i s li fe for e i s m s l a t s o l e . s a e o o t e o u ent c c p c q , and wi ll p ossi bly lead t o an i llu mi nat i ng di scu ssi on of Th e ” Th e boo wi ll a al God of T h i ngs as Th ey are . k pp e t o t h e growi ng mu lt i t u d es of men and women wh o ﬁnd b u t\li t tle meani n i n t h e on enti onal t erms o f reli i on and wh o are g c v g , f t l th ei r s It i s i nt r ti n rat h er con u sed h an h e p ed by u e . e es g i w ri t en t h e R v D r F N t h . ort ewt n t t h at s nce e book as w t e . o a t h e Ci t y T emple sai d Slo wly we are comi ng t o see t h at G od u i d es t h e world not from wi t h ou t bu t from wi t h i n g , a ch ange i s p assi ng over t h e t h ou gh t s and d reams of men so t t h at we can bu t di ml foresee i t s fu t u re effe t W e m st vas y c . u t o r h si m le t li n We r come o see G d wo ki ng on t e p s es . a e omi n t o look for God no t i n t h e u nu su al bu t i n th e e er c g , , v y day t h i ngs and e vent s of li fe we ar e comi ng t o regard Hi m as e er resent wi t h rat h er t h an s an absent ee R ler ” v p u s a u . ’ T h li t erar u ali t f Mr R eeman s boo k i s ex ellent i t e y q y o . c ; ” k e o r n Hi i d ea t o o o f a d emo rati e s ne eadi on . s p g , , c c d ei t i s di sti n t l ori inal t h ou h i t ma arou se ont ro ers y c y g , g v c v y amon t h e orth odox g .

A N O PPOR TUNE B OOK

T h e S orrows o f Ep iru s

By RE N E P UA UX

I v t n crown 8 o , cloth , wi th i llu strati ons , 3s . 6 d . ne .

T r anslated from th e French .

T h e sorrows of Epi ru s i nspi red th e clever and advent urou s correspondent of th e T emps t o V i si t th e d i stri ct and t o i nves ti gate h i m lf h u s of t h u nh a i nh abi t an s Al h ou h h i r for se t e ca e e ppy t . t g t e

s m ath i es are st ron l Gre e 3. lar e ar t of t h ei r ou ntr was y p g y k , g p c y ncorporat ed i n wh at th e au th or p roves i s t h e ar ti ﬁci al and i llu so ry “ S tat e of Albani a wh en i t was creat ed by t h e t reati es wh i ch u h h B l an Wars t o an e nd T h e u bli ati on of th i s boo bro g t t e a k . p c k a ears at an o or t u ne oment for i t i s i n ever wa desi rable pp pp m , y y t h at t h e clai ms of all th e smaller nati onali ti es and peoples sh ou ld b e u nderstood and consi dered b efore th e map of E u rope i s ﬁnally re - drawn .

A d eep ly - i n te r es ti ng b o ok on a q u es ti on n o w be i ng fr e e ly di s cu ss e d

National Re c onstru ct ion

A Stu dy i n Pr acti cal Po liti cs

By J. J. RO B INS O N

In cr own 716 elct /z d net . 8 , , 2 8 . 6 .

T h e au th or h as for years devoted h i mself t o th e study of th e th eor formi n th e basi s of th i s book and i n a most th ou h t y g , g fu l and su ggestive way deals wi th th e reconstruct ion of ou r nat i onal for es wh i h i s alread ne essar to meet th e ondi . c , c y c y c h h n i s d m i bu not t i ons ari si ng out of t e War. T e to e e ocrat c t

so iali st i and th e ari ou s i ssue s are dealt with u i te ra ti all . c c, v q p c c y It i s an able re i ew of oli t i s as th e are and as th e mi h t be v p c y y g , and th e book ma e rh a s form th e basi s of a new mo ement y p p v , me a ri mar ex l d It h as and beco p y t t book for po it ical st u ents. h ad th e advantage of be i ng read i n proof by a number of learned s profe ssor . ONE OF A FRICA ’ S B IG EMPIRE B UILDERS

A Ne w A ND E NLA RGE D E D IT IO N brough t do wn to th e g reat ’ a mi ni r d st at o r s de ath . J o . me B r a son y G . S EYMO U R FO RT

In denz ue elotlz n t wi y S , , 1 08 . 6 d . e , th i llu st r at i ons

After th e publi cation a few years ago of th i s i mportant bi o graph y D r am so n co nti nu ed to fill a lar e la i n u th Afri an affai rs as . J e g p ce S o c Premi e r o f Cape Co lony and as Presi de nt o f th e Bri ti sh S o uth Afri ca m m Co an . Of th e reat e stee i n wh i ch h e was h eld and of th e value p y g , ’ of h i s life s wor t h e h u ndreds of co lu mns devoted to h i s memor b k , y y A lar e th e Press at th e t i me o f h i s death i s a su ffici ent i ndi cati on . g ’ b l b l e mo u r Fo rt s fu ll pu li c wi l u ndou tedly be very g ad t o possess Mr . S y ’ and no w co mple te li fe of one o f S ou th Afri ca s most re markable men . ’ F i n o a o w- w h Rh ode D r me so n s l i fe u as so r e d f nd fe ll o r e r Wi t s . a k , J crowded wi th sti rri ng and epoch - maki ng events th at th i s book sh ou ld find a lace i n e ve r li brar p ! y .

No w p u bli s h e d fo r th e fi rs t ti me .

A N A MA ZING NA RRA TIVE O F P O TS DA M IN TRIG UE T h e Life S tory o f th e

Ex- C rown Princ e ss o f S axony T OLD BY HE RSELF A ND RELAT ED

B y W ILLIA M LE Q U E UX

W not i th a ne selli n i ctu re wra er 1 8 . 6 d . ﬁ g p pp ,

Th i s life - st ory forms one o f t h e most amaz ing narr ati ve r Th e ever revealed i n t h e h i st ory of t h e E u rop ean Cou ts . d D u k e Pri n ess wh o was t h e dau h t er of Ferdi nand IV . ran c , g , G of T u s an and marri ed Pri n e Fred eri k A u u st now Ki n 0 c y , c c g , g Saxon re eals man st ar tli n se re t s of h er areer and sh o ws y , v y g c c , ’ h ow t h rou h t h e Kai ser s er se u t i on sh e was for ed t o lea e , g p c c v h u sband h om e and h i ld ren and h ow s i ed u on b h er , c , , p p y

enemi es sh e was d ri en from la e t o la e an d ﬁ nall arrest ed . v p c p c , y Her advent u res and ast ou ndi ng revelat i ons are almo st i h redi ble b u t t h e Pri n ess sa s i n h er o eni n wo rd s t h at c ; c y , p g , h er au t obi ograph y i s a plai n confessmn of fact s wh i ch h er old fri end Wi lli am Le u eu x i s wri t i n d own for h er and t h at sh e Q g ,

h as no i nt enti on of h i di n h er ast or wh i t ewash i n h erself. g gp g 13

A ve r y l a r g e ﬁ r s t e d i t i o n h a s b e e n p r i n t e d , b u t as

t h e d e m a n d w i ll b e g r e a t a n d r e p r i n t s d o u b t f u l ,

o r d e r s s h o u ld b e p la c e d i m m e d i a t e l y . In Vi e w of t h e g reat i nt ere s t n o w b ei ng s h own i n t h e breedi ng an d i manag em en t of Ho rs es , s p eci al at t en t on i s calle d t o th e fo ll o wi ng D B K T HE H E ST AND AR OO S O N ORS .

By c a p t . M. HO RAC E HAYES , POINT S O F T HE HORS E

A T reati se on th e Conformat ion Movements Breeds and E xolut i on of th e orse , , H , vi se d and enlar ed ed t i n 7 wi th 65 8 i llu st rat i ons. Re g i o , and 2 9 i llustrat i ons added r r a v c ot h i lt and i lt t o 1 vol. su e oy l 8 o l g g p , 3 4 8 . , p ,

T S F r VET ERINARY NO E . o Ho me Owner s

o M di r A n Illustrat ed Manual of H rse e ci ne and Su g ery wri t ten i n si mple lang u ag e di t on b rou h t u t o date b vai i ou s x r A New ( t h e 8t h ) E i , g p y E pe t s i n Veteri nary Sci ence m 8vo clot h i lt net Wi t h ov r 25 0 ll ra i One vol . de , g , 1 5 3 . , e I u st t ons . T h i s notable , y 7 work h as mai ntai ned i t s su premacy for 3 years .

STABLE MANAGEMENT AND EXERC IS E : a B o o k fo r Ho r s e O wne r s and S tu de nts

di t ll st r at D r awi n s a num Revi sed and E nl ar ged E i on. I u ed by g nd er ous d ctz om o P h oto ra h s tak en s eci all or th e: w k Rep r o u f g p p y f or . n 17 cloth i t n t I one vol . , demy 8 0, g l . 1 2 8 . e . ILLUST RAT ED HORS EBREAKING d Enlar ed Edi t i on Wi t h 1 30 Illu strat i ons from Drawi n Revi sed an s b J . g , g y . H a fr m Ph ot o r a h s s e i al tak en f r t h e d OSWALD BR OWN nd o g p p c ly o work . One vol . , oi ng

S l th i lt 1 . net vc, c o g , 2 8 .

RIDING AND HUNT ING

a n m cl evi sed and Enl r ed Edi t i on . I one oo de m ot/i n h R g h , y 8 , , 1 6 6 . ot , wi t u war ds o 25 0 r e r oductz om o Ph to r a h s a D r awi s p f p f o g p nd ng . FRIEDBERGER e FRO HNER’ S VET ERINARY PATHOLOG Y

i h notes on Bacteri olo b Prof ER E W E T D W t g y . R . TANN L T , M. . D . P . H y H , ed and Enlar ed Ed t i on re - t ranslated l i n v c lot h Revi s g i , . 2 vo s , de y 8 o, g ilt , 2 1 3 . not

By M RS . HAYES

T HE HORSEWOMAN A Prac ti c al G u i de .

i t a a M v se a l d b th a C t z n YES . i d E i ti n ar Or i i n l e ed e l te . . A Re d o E nl ed . g y y p H H , g In one ol m vo cloth l i 1 6 s v . de y 8 i t 1 2 5 . m m th 5 zi lu tr at z om . , , g , ,

Ladi es wh o ri de or wh o h ave an i ntent i on of dom so could not h ave a bet t er , y g , ” — a az advi ser . Badmmton M g i ne.

B y JA MES PILLIS

r n ch e th e ent r al Cavalr Sch l m Ecuye e f to C y oo at St . P ete bur g .

E KING AND RIDING Wi t h Mi li tary C o mme ntari e s BR A . at e b Ca ta n M HA YES Wi th 70 zll st r at m r m Ph ot a h : and Tr ansl d y p i . H. . u w f o ogr p k ch es tak n on t s t In one voi S et e h e p o . . , demy cloth gai t , 1 6 9 . mi .

” A h i h u h t er ld b — g er a t orit y h e cou not e. e ld .

N E W 6 / N e l N O V E LS

By D O LF WYLLA RD E T h e Path eti c S nobs “ ” B h e au th or of Mafoo ta As e Have Sown etc y t , y , .

A very h u man s tory and wi th t h e r eadi ng qu ali ti es wh i ch ' u lar u h or w rk T h e sc ne i s one associ at es wi th t h i s p op a t 5 o . e a h h i n esse x T h ere i s a asci nati n ou n cou nt ry nei g bou r ood W . f g y g s l i er nd a c rrectl - brou h t u cou n tr i rl wh o elo e re ard o d a o y g p y g p , g less of p arent al opposi t i on and wi th consequ ences wh i ch th e book wi ll r veal T h ere are ood and bad e o le all t reat ed wi t h th e e . g p p , ' au th or s p ronou nce d p ower of ch aract en z at i on and t h e close i nter est h r u h ou t of th e re ad er i s su st ai ned t o g .

By LO R D FR E D ERIC HAMILT O N l P i v Lady E eanor , r ate Si mmonds and oth ers

T h e sce ne of act i on i s Cou n t D err i n War t i me and a ch ar y y , m n h l h h i n wh o l v r i s at t h e r n h i Iri i r i s ero e se o e o t . T er i g s g t e f e s a. t rai t or of Jew li neage wh o i s t ryi ng t o marry h er and a sp end th ri ft h wh w n s sell h er T h ere i s also Lad l n r at r o a t t o . E ea f e y o , a d eli h t fu l ch aract er and t h e rime mover i n mu ch t h at occu rs g , p an v ll th ere i s Pr1vat e Si mm onds a e at h er - wei h t xe d abo e a , f bo r , , g an ch r o f t h ﬁrst order wh o i s an absolu t e creati on N ver d oa e e . e p , , wh i l h e r Lad E leanor i s o n th e scene and t h at i s mos t of th e e o y , i m h u ll m m nt T h b ok s ar k les wi th wi t rilli an t e i s t ere a d o e . e o b t , p , di alo u e and t h e most amu si n i ncident s A n i deal boo k for tired g g ,

nerves . By RAC HE L S WET E MAO NA MARA Lark 's G ate

B th Au th or o f T h e Ft i n e of th D sei y e g e e t . Th i s st ory t ou ch es on p roblems wh i ch are gi vi ng ri se t o mu ch seri ou s t h ou h t at t h e resent t i me—of sex mot h er g p , rali t It i s a rom nc f m l h ood and mo . a e o ou n i u si ve y y g , p love and an aft er t ra ed wh i ch i n t u rn i s followed b a , g y , , y r e An i nocent ard ent Well bred an r h a os ct . n d eﬁned ppy p p , , i rl and a ou n farmer fall assi onat el i n love and elo e g y g p y p , wi t h e i t en i n f t ti n marri T h e marri a i s h t n t o o ge g ed . ge fru st rat ed bu t a bo i s born t o t h em and t h e mot h er i s led , y , t b eli e h at t h e ch i ld i s d a Lat r sh m rri o ev t e d . e , e a es , and wh en i n Egypt meet s h er lover t o di scover t h at t h ey h ad been k e t a art b t h ei r ri end s T h i s si t u ati n i s d evelo b p p y f . o ped y t h t en r i n e au h or i n a most g oss g st ory . NEW 6 / Net NO VELS

By GO S MO HA MILT O N S c andal

“ T h e Bli ndne f V B th th or of ss o i rtu . y e Au e , etc

Mr osmo Hami lton h as neve r wri tten a more absorbi n and o ri i nal . C g g “ " l T h e h erome i s th e onl c i l f story t han Scanda . y h d o a N ew York mult i mi lli onaire and sh e h as be en brou ght u p i n th e art i fi Ci al at mosphere o f

lu c T ou a beau t i fu l ou n i rl Wi t man Wi nni n i p tocra y . h g h y g g h y g q uali t es sh e h as been t horou hl s 0 i lt and Wi th h er th e elemental assmns oflove s m ath g y p p , y p y and chari ty have been su pplanted by selfi shness and an u tter d i sreg ard for th e f li f t l 1 th r ult of h er ee ng s o o hers . S canda 5 e es reck lessness and u nconvent ional bi v man al ri ha ts . It is g i en to a you ng , so ch and hardened i n selﬁsh ness to bri n h r h r g e to e senses .

‘ By T HE c o u nrre ss BA Rc vivs xA Love Mag g y

“ ” “ B th e A u th o r of T h e Hone Po t If i sh e s we re Horses e tc y y , W ,

T h e many tho u sands o f readers of T h e Honey Po t Wi ll be glad to h ear more of Ma of th e t ende r heart th e deli h tful h erome o f t hat boo k wh o ggy , g ,

ever on to lau ter and tears Sh e rea ears as th e V i u t es mo ved y e gh . pp sco n s halfont and what ha ens to h er i n h er marri ed li fe i s t old b th e au thor Wi th C , pp y th e same be au t i fu l sympathy and u nderstandi ng whi ch were so remark able a ’ t r i h i i n o f Ma s earli er da B t h e b l fea u e n er descr pt o g gy ys. u t ook wi l mak e i t s o wn stro ng appeal t o readers wh o have not yet become acqu ai nted wit h th i s u ni que ch aract e r i n fi ct i on

B y MARGA RET P ET E RS O N ’ Love s Bu rden ” B th e A uth or of T o Lo ve B erﬂ i n utt s e tc . y , y W g ,

Marg ot go es ou t to Indi a and t here meets a man wh o m sh e marri es partly b ecause h e p ersu ades h er t hat sh e i s necessary for h i s salvati on and partly becau se sh e th i nk s t hat i n domg so sh e pro vi des for th e h appi ness of i ll i v Marri a l i anot her man Wi th whom sh e s rea y n lo e . g e a d o n such fou nda ti ons is hardl li k el t o ro ve a su ccess bu t Mar o t Wi ns t hrou h t o ha i nes s y y p , g g pp h i deas b i n th v l i s t at u ns lﬁ h n in th e e nd . O ne of t e eh d e no e h e s ess eve n wh en

m v i Wi e Mi ss Pe r a pract ised from t h e best oti es s not always s . te son s ys n a ers s eak i n o f h er last Ind i an novel bi ds f ir to be one of our lead i g p p , p g , a f th N ative S tat e th e Rider Hagg ard o e . 9 NEW 6 / Net NOVELS

By HA LLIE E R MINIE R IVES ’ T h e Long Lane s T u rning

” B th e A u th or of Hearts Cou ra eous e y g , C Th i s st ory sh ows h ow a bri lli ant man wi t h a weak ness ’ wi ns h i s salvat i on t h rou gh a woman s love and h i s own i nh erent nobi li ty b u t not u nt i l h e h ad mad e a st ern figh t and been sever ely p u ni sh ed t h rou gh t h e acti ons of enemi es wh o were i a e ss t n In t h ese h e ti able t o t u rn h s we k n o acco u t . c c day s of war t h i s novel wi ll p ro ve a ment al t oni c wh i ch wi ll sti r t h e i t nt i m It i nvolv s s h most jad ed sp ri t o e h u s as . e u c a cu ri ou s ent an lement i n h u man affai rs i s so f ull of acti on so ch ar ed g , , g wi t h exci t ement so forcefu l and of su ch i nt ense i nt erest t h at , , h eart s wi ll b eat fast i n symp at h y wi th t h e p eople wh o li ve i n i t s p ages . By B EAT RIC E BAS KERVILLE Love and S a c ri fi ce A No ve l o f Po land du ri ng th e War “ B wi ’ Ki ” B e f ald n s n dom etc . y th Au th or o g . A n i llu mi nati ng and absorbi ng story of th e War i n Poland wh en Ru i h e r i n th e arli Prussi an and ss an we re figh t i ng t e e er days of th e War. A large cou ntry h ou se wi th i ts big estates and many dependants i s th e mar b o f t i on and th e i cted are re ka le i n h i r vi v . cent re ac , scenes dep t e idness an u nco mmon love i nte r st runni n th rou h th e stor T h ere i s e g g y, and Engli sh readers W i ll reali se wh at th e War h as meant to some of th e noble class i n of i h r k now o li ttl a country wh c at p esent th ey s e . B y FE RGUS H U ME Heart o f Ice ” o f T h e M ster of a Hansom Cab et By th e Au th or y y , c A ve ry pleasi ng novel wh i ch i s su re to be popu lar at th e present r i ularl bri h t and e e i v mo ment . T h e di a o u e i s a t c ff ct e th e love g p y g , l “ tor exce t i onall i nt e rest i n and th e cent ral ch aracter a dancer wh o s y p y g , , r ood an admi r i nfluences h er vari ous love rs for th e i g , able h eroi ne

J u s t R e a d y . By A RA B E LLA KEN EA LY Woman s Great Adventu re ” h or f T h e Wa of a Lover e By th e A u t o y ,

no f ul f h i bl T h e beau ti ful Stella com romi sed t hrou h a t o er own, s o i ed , p g g T h e stor of h er maternal ex eri ences i s t old o marry t o save h er repu tati on. y p wit h reat s m at h and d eli cac et Wi th all th e force and assion associated g y p y y , y p r Wi th th e work of t hi s cleve wri ter.

G E R T R U D E P A G E ’ S N O V E LS

E ar/z i n cown 8 l t m , a o /i g i lt , 6 8

T h e S a le s o f G E RT R U D E PAG ES N o v e ls a r e n o w i n t h e

s e c o n d m i l l i o n . SOME THERE ARE “ Comedy of th e est racil wri t te n and develo ed wit sur e h sch ol bu t b , y p h p y og y : r alone i s n ” h u r i ou ot t h e stand i n di s t h e ook h as Si nce ri t and eau T. P ) : g h b y b ty . Weék ly . FOLLOW AFTER A not her Rhodesi an novel su ch as t h i s au thor loves to wri te and h er readers l m c r ” — l m r ea It i s fu l of i nsi t i nto u an aracte . E vemn tan ar d sti l o e to r d d . . g h h h g ! WHERE THE S TRANG E ROADS G O D OWN Mi ss Pa e h as never drawn a more s lendi d woman t h e n ri lli ant unconventi onal g p b , , ’ ” l l J Joe s love stor i s h k e erse lf ﬁne and i ns i ri n o a oe Lat om . Obs y h . y h p er ver . , : g THE G REAT S PLE ND OUR “ Pa e i s an i deal au t or for a de ressi n da Mi ss g h p g y . Sh e is li k e a good water colour art ist wh k nows h ow t o mak e t h e re est lan sca e o g y d p lumi nou s. Her new novel i s fu ll of ” d —~ m P ost li fe an you th . Mo mg . THE RHOD ES IAN Sh e refresh es us wi t th e Wi ld eau t y of veldt and sk and teac es us t h e h b y, h ” — d ci ui ns. fasci nati on of ope n spaces an an ent r Globe . WIND ING PATH S “ M t h e est ook t at 151 1 5 3 Pa e h as w h ost cert am b b h g yet ri t te n . Fr om t e ﬁrst pag e n i nte res t T h e women ar V V to t h e last of qu i te a sor i g . e real and i ld i n all they say "— b b and do. Standard . THE S ILENT RANC HE R ‘ ’ T h e Si lent Ranc er i s one of t h e est novels we ave d i - P ai l h b h rea t h s season. Mall Gazette . LOVE IN THE WILD E RNES S ” Wi t a low of real h fe — l A r i n Dazl Ch r oni c e . bri ght sto y h g i t . y THE ED G E O ’ BEYOND “ In t h i s st or of Rh odeSi an h fe t h e au t or h as s own i m art i all ot th e s uns i ne y , h h p y b h h ” t a land of c arms a d s r — and t h e shadows of h t h n my te y . P u neh . PAD DY THE NEXT BEST THING — “ ‘ All novel readers Wi ll love Paddy wh o was a Wi ld i rl th e next est t hi n to , g , b g a — s bei ng boy Mor mng P o t . T WO LOVE RS AND A LI G HTHOUS E

’ lt and z lt t o In cr own clot /z g i g p , 3 8 . 6 d .

A c a i n love r som w at ori i nal ack rou nd It co t ai h rm g sto y on a e h g b g . n —ns mu ch c le ver and t ender wri ti ng Wi t h tou ches of humou r to reh e ve t h e pathos Scot sman ALSO JILL'S RHODE S IAN PHILOS OPHY ’ h e cr own 80 0 clot/z i lt wi t/i line A u t/wr s or tr a t t , g , p i , 2 8 . Gd . m .

“ A ca i tal desc ri t n o li f on a m esi re w p p io f e far i n Rhod a. The i s a g lo of real li fe i n " t h te lli n wh i c fasm at t h e a d d h a i r e g h n es reader, n hol s t e tte nt on from ﬁ st; t o last . my n Quee . RE CE N T S UC CE S S FUL 6 / N O VELS

S T ILL IN G REA T D EMA ND

’ NOBO DY S IS LAND By Beatrice Grimshaw

A most ca ti vat i n tale full o f act i o n and co lou r — i p g , ; e d .

In th e S o u t h S eas t h e st ory g lows and bu rns i n th e at mos phe re wh i ch w m d h Beatri c e e msh a h as a e er o wn . O ne o f th e be st romanc es Mi ss

G ri ms aw et v - ou rz t r h h as y mt ten C y s e .

T HE GO LDEN T RIANGLE

An Ar s éne Lu p i n S to ry By MASH“ L0 3im

“ v c Excmng an d cle er ly o nstru cted .

BA LDWI N ’ S KING D O M i Li A S to r y o f Ru s s an fe BYBeat ri ce m m

" v l r v A ﬁne no el and I sh ou d almo st say a g e at no el. One of th e ” v f r —S l R “ 7 R N Str ong est no vels t hat ha e bee n wr i t ten or yea s. O BE RTSO

N ICO LL in th e 8 7 7 11 5 12 Weekly.

FAT E AND T HE WAT C HER

By Eargaret Peterson

It is a lo ng t i me S i nce we have read a mone e xciti ng Indian st o ry . Mi ss Pe terso n see ms to bi d fai r t o be th e Ri d er Haggard of th e nat i ve S tate

AT WHO SE DO OR ! By Cosmo Hamilton

Th e p res ent is u ndou btedly a mos t pro p i t i o us t i me for urgi ng parents t o ’ ei r c i ldr e i h mn co nvmcm l open t h h n s eyes . T h e mi ter h as su cceed ed n s o g g y what may h appen t o you ng men and girls cu lpably le ft i n bli ndness by th e

T HE HEART O F A WO MAN By Violet Tweak

Th e boo k h as an obvmus and so mi ﬂaun ssi mﬁcance Whi le it ne wly g g , ’ ” - ll r Gloo osc Her ald . i ustrates th e au th o r s sure mee t and h er a ti stic ski B. g

x3 ’ Hurst 8 Blackett s m Novel SERIES .

E ac h wi th attr acti ve i ctor i al wra er i col u p pp n o rs .

E W VO LUME S A ND R E - I N S S UES .

h e P u b li s h e r s h a ve b e e n m ll T c o p e e d , o w i n g t o c o n t i n u a lly i n c re as i n g c o s t s o f i p ro d u c t i o n , t o ra s e t h e p r i c e o f t h i s m S e r i e s f ro t o n e t . sni nows or ES B Amélie ves FLAM y Ri T ro u be tz k o y

’ PAN S MOUNTAIN By Amélie Rives ANNETTE OF THE ARGONNE By William Le Queux

’ THE DEVIL S CARNIVAL By WilliamLe Oueux SPIES OF THE KAISER By William Le Oueux WON BY WAITING By Edna Lyall IN THE GOLDEN DAYS By Edna Lyall BEHOLD AND SEE! By Lilith Hope

S B Mrs. . Gf h r THE YOUNGE T MISS MOWBRAY y B . M o e THE SPLENDID FRIEND By Effie Adelaide Rowland:

B Ms. G. THE TURNSTILE OE NIGHT y r N . Williamson

n i m h t h e ab e A d u n for wi t ov ,

THE LIFE - STORY OF THE

- Wm Le eux EXCROWN PRINCESS OF SAXONY By . Ou

In cr own 80 0 a er i ctor i al cove r 1 16 n ot , p p p POPPY : The Story ofaSouth Afri can Girl By Cynthia Stockley

2 0 0 t h T h ou san d .

’ ’ H fo Bl u rst ack e tt s 6 d. Novels

W a r P r i c e , 9 d .

In attr acti ve i ctu r e covers i n colou p rs .

Th e followi ng is a list of t h e few titles st ill avai lab le. Th ey h l s ou d be ord ered at once, as it is impossible to rep ri nt

eu. Novels und er present condit ions .

IN THE GOLD EN DA YS By Edn a Ly all WO N BY WA ITING By Edna Ly all FREEDOM By A li c e an d Clau de A s k e w T W S B B d U . rad n HE HITE HO E y M E . o EUGENE V ID OCQ By D i c k D o n o van LOV ERS O F MA D EMOISELLE By Cli ve Ho llan d

DAUG R- IN- LAW B W S THE HTE y E . . avi HIS BROTHER’ S KEEPER By Ju dg e Mc D o n n e ll Bo dki n A MOD ERN WITC H By Efﬁe A de laide Ro wlan ds THE HOUSE O F INTRIGUE By Pe rcy Wh i t e

COLONEL DA V ERO N By P . rc y Wh i t e ABA A LD B R ” S M CDONA— y i t a COUNTESS DA PI INE By Ri t a THE MA N WITH THE BLA CK FEATHER By Gas t o n Le ro u x

BALA O O By G ast o n Lé76 u x

A LLNG T UN c car th C I HE T E By Ju s t i n H . M y ’ T FLYNN H c carth HE O By Ju s t i n . M y THE KING OV ER THE WA TER B H c carth y Ju s t i n . M y

GO D O F L V B i n H Mc Carth THE O E y Ju st . y

W RLD F R F G o ro n THE O O C IME By M . . THE RIVER O F DREA MS By Wi lliam We st ru p A TIME O F TERROR ' By t h e A u th o r o f Th e D e vil s Pe e p s h o w

THIS B O OK IS D U E ON THE LA S T D A T E S T A MP E D B E LOW

A N INIT IA LFINE O F 25 CE N T S W ILL B E A S S ES S E D FO R FA ILU R E T O R ET U RN H IS B O O O N T H D A T E D U E T H E P E A LT Y T K E . N W ILL IN C R EA S E T O 5 0 C EN T S O N T H E FO U RT H D A Y A N D T O O N T H E S EV E N T H D A Y O V ER D U E .