THE MANY MOODS OF BEACHES REVEAL A RUGGED WINTER BEAUTY

hen winter rains coming to the should drizzle (yes, pack rain gear); the all beaches open to the public, the descend upon British really look at all the seasons,” next you’re in shirt sleeves, peering choice is yours. To absorb the full Columbia, Marion he added. off an 800-foot outcropping at Cape sweep of dramatic geographic and John Mitchell Each season has its own person- Perpetua to watch wet-suited surfers changes, try starting north and Wfollow their instincts. Firing up ality. Summer brings sunshine, but navigate waves and sea lions. working your way south. their 27-foot Yellowstone Capri also wind, fog and hoards of Huddle around a campfire to motorhome, they head south. tourists, making traffic a challenge warm yourself one afternoon; fly a The North Coast Not toward the balmy waters of along the winding contours of U.S. kite on the beach at Lincoln City You can’t miss the sound — part Baja or dry Arizona heat, rather the 101 — which parallels Oregon’s the next. Patience will be rewarded. honk, part baritone bleat, it carries wild, scenic beauty of the Oregon 400-mile coastline the entire length For the Mitchells, simple pleas- throughout the seaport town of Coast. They grab their Gore-Tex of the state. ures and natural beauty bring them Astoria. “That’s the sea lions,” a local and hit the road. Crowds thin sharply in the win- back to the coast. “We like it resident assures, nodding toward “We actually prefer to come off- ter, with fickle weather and cooler because we can get out here, ride docks along the Columbia River. season because it’s less busy,” said days. But the season also has its our bikes and breathe the air,” There they lie, a dozen hefty sea John, fiddling with a new generator charms. Spectacular wave action explained Marion, a self-employed lions that appear to be holding a as the couple sat at a picnic table in appeals to storm watchers. tax accountant when she’s not on dock hostage. Fat and satisfied, they , near Migrating gray whales lure curious the road. “We’ll go fly a kite, walk have the right of way. End of story. Newport, Ore., enjoying a mild observers. Crabbing, clamming on the beach, maybe ride an ATV In some ways, they’re the per- December breeze. “In fact, anyone and fishing continue, as always. on the Oregon Dunes,” she added. fect sentinels for this colorful sea- But the promise of the Oregon “Really, it’s all about the joy of faring community, reminiscent of Coast in winter is this: Every day doing nothing.” an old-fashioned New England seems to provide at least one mirac- The Oregon Coast isn’t about fishing village. Sea lions are a ulous break in the weather. Winter is beach blankets, body builders and reminder that the Pacific Ocean is a a moody season. When it’s foggy bikinis. This is a wilder coast, neighbor, the place where many and rainy inland, you may find a rocky, boisterous and untamed. residents here still head to work stunning blue-sky day at the coast. And it can be explored from almost each day. One minute you’re drenched in soft any angle. Since Oregon law makes Billed as the oldest American

Towering above Cannon Beach, Haystack Rock is a popular landmark for beachcombers. By law, all Oregon beaches are open to the public. (Left) Resident sea lions nap along Newport’s Historic Bayfront. Commercial fishing 7 vessels add an authentic seafaring touch to the community of Astoria. Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 1 good eats, great sites: - The Boatworks, ocean-front dining, Bandon - Cannon Beach/Haystack Rock - Scenic Overlook - Columbia Maritime Museum, Astoria - National Memorial, Warrenton - Mo’s, world-famous clam chowder, at 5 coastal locations including Cannon Beach - Oregon Coast Aquarium, Newport - Oregon Dunes , south of Florence - , north of Florence - Tillamook Cheese Factory, Tillamook

settlement west of the Rocky Glancing about the verdant park Mountains, Astoria is also the per- — perfumed with damp, spicy fect starting point for our trip. cedar — Vierk said he typically Follow signs up Coxcomb Hill sticks with state and national camp- for a visual orientation. There, you grounds, and is rarely disappointed. can walk up the Astoria Column for “We’ve been here probably 50 a panoramic view of the town, the times, maybe more,” he said. “My coastline and Astoria Bridge, best advice is to just take your time which spans the gaping mouth of and enjoy it.” the Columbia River between State Park is open Oregon and Washington. year-round with no reservations In town, grab a burger at the Wet where to stay: required and offers discounts Dog Café and check out the —Astoria/Warrenton/Seaside KOA, Hammond October through April, dubbed Columbia River Maritime (800) 562-8506 or (503) 861-2606 “discovery season.” Museum, both located downtown. —, Newport, (541) 265-9278 The park boasts 14 miles of Load up on provisions at the —Bullards Beach State Park, Bandon, (541 )347-2209 bicycle/hiking trails and a nearby —Charleston Marina & RV Park, Charleston Safeway Superstore, where you’ll historic military site. On the beach, (541) 888-2548 find everything from fresh sushi —Fort Stevens State Park, Hammond, (503) 861-1671 explore remains of the Peter Iredale and an olive bar to panini sand- —Jessie Honeyman Memorial State Park, Florence shipwreck. wiches and hot Chinese food — (541) 997-3641 And for a taste of local history, with ample RV parking. —Lincoln City KOA, Otis be sure to stop at the Fort Clatsop (800) 562-2791 or (541) 994-2961 The Old Riverfront Trolley National Memorial. —, Manzanita Junction doesn’t run in the winter, but on a (503) 368-5154 “When you step off this path, clear day you can stroll the same —Oregon Dunes KOA, North Bend you are entering the world of path to view some of the 250 to 300 (800) 562-4236 or (541) 756-44851 1805,” cautioned our guide, nod- ships that pass through Astoria —South Beach State Park, Newport, (541) 867-4715 ding through mist-shrouded fir —, Coos Bay, (541) 888-4902, ext. 25 each month. trees toward a squat log structure Continue south on U.S 101 to populated with characters from find coastal camping options, have nestled their 20-foot Aljo Aly “We make this trip once a America’s past. including the Astoria/Warrenton/ travel trailer and van into a cozy year. It’s only four hours from When Lewis and Clark jour- Seaside KOA campground, one nook, drawn each winter by the home, but it feels like we’re really neyed west to the Pacific Ocean, mile from the beach, and lushly quiet serenity they find at the getting away,” they wintered in a crude stockade. wooded Fort Stevens State Park, Oregon Coast. From his silver-blue 28-foot Today, Fort Clatsop National with 174 full hookup RV sites and “It’s the water — I just like to be Safari Trek, Dave Vierk insists that Memorial recreates that shelter, 302 electrical campsites. Some near the ocean — and Ralph comes this is the best time of year for a with costumed interpreters who sites are pull-through and all are with me,” laughed Mandy Noble, coastal visit: “We never do it in the describe the deprivation and hard- enveloped by dense, mature trees, of Washington state, who has biked summer — too many people. We’ll ship of that long, wet winter. which lend privacy. the entire length of the coastal high- see some of our nicest weather here Located east of Warrenton off Here, Mandy and Ralph Noble way, from Canada to Mexico. in the fall and beyond.” U.S. 101, the center is affordable,

8 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 1 From left to right: Anglers try their luck right off the docks in Charleston harbor.

Yaquina Bay State Park, at the south end of Newport, boasts great views. Study the waves, visit the Lighthouse or snap a photo of the famed Yaquina Bay Bridge.

Whale watching is a popular winter activity along the Oregon Coast. Highway 101 offers many opportunities to pull over and stop, with RV-friendly turnouts and numerous overlooks.

informative and well worth the For John and Shirley Soper, just ing in her Winnebago. “And we spring and fall kite-flying festivals trek, with spacious RV parking. parking their 22-foot “Mini like the quiet.” are a major attraction. Rolling south, you’ll pass Winnie” at a mostly vacant Lincoln City marks the unofficial through Seaside — Oregon’s Nehalem State Park — within end of the North Coast, a flourish to Central Coast answer to Coney Island. One of the earshot of the ocean — is all the the trip, with seven miles of beach, a “Yep, they’re moving in full state’s first seashore resorts, the entertainment they need. huge factory outlet shopping center from eating up in the Bering Sea,” town still projects that frivolous fla- “They keep the park so clean,” and Chinook Winds Casino. But the muttered John Rose, fixing vor. Explore shops and restaurants explained Shirley Soper, who community may be best known for his binoculars on the rolling, on foot along “The Promenade,” drives a school bus when not tour- perfect kite-flying winds. Annual liquid horizon. which ends at the town’s famed “turnaround,” but resist the urge to thread your rig through those nar- From MaxxAir Vent Corporation row, congested streets. The leader in RV ventilation Next up, Cannon Beach — one of Oregon’s most accessible and picturesque sites, featuring sand, tide pools and 235-foot-tall The first ever all-in-one fan powered RV vent that Haystack Rock. Be sure to slip into automatically provides rain free ventilation. Mo’s for a steaming bowl of clam chowder — about $4 — and a spectacular oceanfront view. (Tip: At Cannon Beach, RVs must park The MaxxFan’s unique in designated areas, but they’re patent pending rain shield clearly marked.) automatically moves into position, protecting your U.S. 101 continues through RV’s interior. windy, steep and hilly terrain, often set inland, away from the coast. Seasoned RVers recommend stay- The rain shield tucks away ing off the roads at night, but by under the vent lid leaving a low profile, euro-style day the bays and lush, fern-laden appearance. rain forests are quite scenic. Tillamook is Oregon’s famed dairy country, so be sure and try Features a powerful 3-speed fan, thermostat, air intake and exhaust some cheese and ice cream sam- functions. Includes an easy to remove - easy to clean, interior insect screen. ples at the Tillamook Cheese Available with Smoke Tint (shown) or Translucent White lid. Factory as you enter town, or visit the Tillamook Air Museum on your Call: 800-780-9893 way out. Or Visit us at: www.maxxair.com

READER INQUIRY #105 9 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 1 With wind-sculpted sand dunes that can reach 500 feet above sea level, the sheer drama of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area never fails to impress visitors. Stretching from Florence to North Bend, all sites within the Oregon Dunes require a Northwest Forest Pass ($5 a day/$30 a year). For more information, call (541) 750-7000.

227 electrical sites, playgrounds don’t and meeting halls. Hike the 2 1/4- forget mile trail to the South Jetty, or the 1 Don’t forget- 3/4-mile nature trail. Raingear The trek from Newport to Binoculars for whale watching Dry footwear for beach Florence is breathtaking, a mar- combing/clamming riage of rugged coastline, pounding Fishing gear Hiking boots surf and towering forests. Take Rain tarps for campsites your rig for a short climb up Cape off-road vehicles during winter RVs can camp at Sunset Bay State Perpetua, tour Heceta Head months. The dunes, which can Park, with 29 full hookups, 36 ROUTE 66 Lighthouse, or visit the Sea Lion climb 500 feet above sea level, electrical sites, nearby hiking Caves — a famed, 12-story sea stretch for 41 miles between trails and a picturesque bay-shel- Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network Dealer: cavern that is home to hundreds of Florence and Coos Bay. About half tered beach. sea lions, which gather inside in the Gibs RV Superstore of the Oregon Dunes National On a sunny Sunday morning, 1845 Ocean Blvd. fall and winter. Recreation Area is open to off-road Randy and Debbie Chizek, of Coos Bay, OR Before your descent into vehicles, including dune buggies Junction City, Ore., parked their 33- (541) 888-3424 Florence, pause at one of many sce- and ATVs. foot Eldorado at the beach to soak nic turnouts for a good look south. Four-wheeling is so popular, that in the view — white caps frothing Despite the early hour, Rose and Here, the landscape begins a dra- campground reservations are in the distance, gulls soaring, ocean his wife, Karen, of nearby Depoe matic transformation, from moun- strongly recommended even during reflecting a blue, blue sky. “The Bay, were already attracting a tainous capes to wind-sculpted winter months. Oregon Coast in the winter,” Randy crowd, as vehicles peeled off U.S. sand dunes worthy of the Sahara. Hanneson says he has no prob- Chizek said, smiling in the sun- 101 to follow “Whale Watching lem maneuvering his 21-foot Tahoe shine. “Couldn’t get any better.” Spoken Here” signs that pepper the South Coast around the campground. “It’s really No trip to the coast would be highway in late December. Chris Hanneson studied the the perfect setup for a family of complete without a visit to Old Soon, the cry goes up. Whales! skies. Any break in the morning three or four.” When weather inter- Town Bandon, just off U.S. 101. A small pod swims by, blowing rain, and he would be back tearing venes, the families gather around the Drive past the shops and art gal- greetings on their annual migration up and down the towering Oregon campfire. Many of the kids camp in leries, sticking to Jetty Road, and toward warmer Mexican waters. Dunes on his Yamaha 660 Raptor, nearby heated yurts, also available you’ll find an excellent view of the Winter is whale-watching sea- four-wheeling with his wife and by reservation. Honeyman park Coquille River Lighthouse. son at the Oregon Coast, an invita- daughter. offers 47 full hookup sites, 119 elec- Don’t forget to check out the tion for travelers to pull over, whip “Last year, it snowed on us,” he trical sites and 10 yurts. For infor- cranberry bread at The Boatworks, out binoculars and hunt for lacy said, shrugging. “This is just cold mation, call (541) 997-3641. where the food is good and the plumes of water vapor — tell-tale and wet. When you’ve got a hot You can glimpse the dunes as wave action takes place right out- signs of whale breath. shower, you can cope.” you move south on U.S. 101 side your window. Many coastal communities The weather mattered little to toward Reedsport. Take a turn east Pause for one more panoramic sponsor ocean whale-watching Hanneson, who joins four other on Route 38 for a few miles to visit view of the coastline at Cape cruises, but it’s also fun to join the families and their toy haulers at the Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area, Blanco State Park. Hunt for agates gawkers and volunteer guides, who Jessie Honeyman State Park each with resident elk and plenty of along the beaches near Port Orford can help you. Well-marked scenic winter for off-road fun. By now, it’s room for RVs. — oldest town site on the coast — turnouts provide ample opportunity less a tradition than an addiction. Now you’re in fishing country. or head down to Gold Beach for a to try your luck. “The scenery is forever chang- Winchester Bay, North Bend, Coos jet-boat ride up the wild and scenic For a closer look at sea life, ing when you’re out there,” he said, Bay, Charleston — all are Rogue River. check out the Oregon Coast with a grin. “Something different renowned for recreational and Push on to Brookings, the town Aquarium — a world-class facility every time.” But there’s something commercial fishing. that bills itself as Oregon’s “banana located just south of the Yaquina more: “You meet a lot of people Follow the signs to Charleston belt.” And truly, the weather does Bay bridge in Newport. Sea otters, quadding — and they’re good peo- and you’re hugging the coastline. boast the warmest average temper- elegant jellyfish and fiesty puffins ple,” he explained. It’s also a chance to visit Shore ature on the coast. offer a fascinating diversion, and For New Year’s Eve, the families Acres State Park — with lavish So wander down to the harbor, children love the tidal “touch” pool. — five couples, nine kids and their botanical gardens — Sunset Bay grab some fresh fish for lunch, sit A few miles down the road, “quads”— bring their RVs to State Park and Cape Arago State back and soak up some winter sun- South Beach State Park wins the Honeyman Park’s H Loop, which Park, an overlook that offers one of shine. You’ve earned it. hearty endorsement of RVers, with offers direct access to the sand for the best viewpoints on the coast. 10 ROUTE 66 RV Network Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 1 Winter brings spectacular storms and dramatic wave action to the Oregon Coast. Parks and scenic overlooks provide great views of rugged headlands and rocky shoreline.

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