COACH CUTS OUTLOOK/3 TOLL MOUNTS/12 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 24, 2007 • $2.00 Sportswear Soft Serve MILAN — Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier has a deft hand at subtlety. This season, he worked more of that nuanced magic in his tailored silhouettes, gently softening up those men’s wear-inspired garments to a slouchy-yet-chic effect. Here, a duchesse satin jacket and pants paired with a tulle bustier. For more on the look, see pages 6 and 7.

Arnault’s New Frontier: Keeping LVMH on Top Of China’s Luxury Boom By Miles Socha BEIJING — When Louis Vuitton opened a store in the basement of the Palace Hotel here back in 1992, Bernard Arnault had trepidations, encountering a city where mostly bicycles rolled through the dusty streets. Even the faucets in his hotel bathroom worked sporadically at best. “I remember saying to the teams at Vuitton, ‘Are you sure this is the right time to open up in Beijing, because there doesn’t seem to be an enormous number of clients,’” the chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton recalled with a wry smile. See China’s, Page 4 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Easing in U.S., Pushing Abroad WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear By Katherine Bowers al-Mart Stores Inc. said sales growth would FASHION Wslow during the next several years as it re- Designers took a turn away from structured volume for spring and duces U.S. expansion to make long-term invest- toward a softer touch in languid, slouchy or defl ated silhouettes. ments abroad. 6 To improve returns, Wal-Mart will build fewer new stores in the U.S., reduce corporate expenses GENERAL and overhaul merchandising, human resources LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault expounds on the prospect of Chinese and fi nancial software systems. 1 brands to the country’s growing reputation for innovative architecture. “We have an opportunity to grow profi tably and reverse that trend of declining ROI [return on in- Wal-Mart Stores Inc. said sales growth will slow in the next few years as vestment],” chief fi nancial offi cer Tom Schoewe told 2 it reduces U.S. expansion to make long-term investments abroad. fi nancial analysts Tuesday at the company’s annual Coach Inc. posted a 23.2 percent jump in fi rst-quarter earnings and a investor presentation in a convention center near 3 27.8 percent spike in sales, but said same-store sales are challenged. Wal-Mart’s Bentonville, Ark., headquarters. In merchandising — an area where the re- Hermès has given its historic Paris fl agship a new wing that nearly tailer has been inconsistent the last several years 3 doubles the space for the rtw collections designed by Jean Paul Gaultier. — Wal-Mart is focused on low prices and major KNITS: Luxury knit houses are offering full collections for spring brim- brands across the store. 6 ming with dresses and other unexpected pieces. Apparel remains a problem. In the last three Wal-Mart is reducing U.S. expansion to focus on long- months, apparel comps have been down 7.4 per- term overseas investments. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 13-15 cent compared with Kohl’s, which is up 1.3 per- cent, and J.C. Penney, up 1.9 percent. 2010 fi scal year. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. “Today everyone is suffering in the apparel Several analysts appeared to be skeptical that [email protected], using the individual’s name. business, not just us,” said Eduardo Castro-Wright, the focus on global growth would translate to a chief executive offi cer of Wal-Mart U.S., citing more robust stock price. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT warm weather and cuts in discretionary spending Christine Augustine, analyst from Bear Stearns, ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. related to tightening of consumer credit. questioned Wal-Mart’s decision to fl atten capital VOLUME 194, NO. 87. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and As a result, Wal-Mart is getting even more spending in the U.S. and increase expenditures three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance conservative in its approach, barely mentioning for Seiyu, the Japanese subsidiary that has failed Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by fashion in its presentation Tuesday. Instead, the to turn a profi t since Wal-Mart acquired a stake Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive apparel team is embracing a mission to be the in 2000. The company announced on Monday it Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human market’s dominant source of low-cost apparel would offer another $875 million to purchase the Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return staples. remaining 49 percent of Seiyu. undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: “We are focusing on our basics and essentials,” “How many years do you think it’s going SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Castro-Wright said. to take before you actually see a return there 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Basics priced $10 and under make up more [in Japan] and why have you made this addi- INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit than half of Wal-Mart’s apparel sales and will tional investment? How can you justify that?” www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production continue their prominence in coming seasons, Augustine asked. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, said Dottie Mattison, senior vice president and “Japan would represent the second-largest please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other general merchandise manager of women’s appar- market in the world, a wonderful opportunity, dif- Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list el. “Wal-Mart is about price leadership. Helping ferent than any other market in which we partici- available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. our customer take care of the family, exerting our pate,” Schoewe said. “In the case of Japan, it’s a If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, scale…to deliver key items for the family, at $10 long-term strategy because it’s a great long-term OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, and less.” opportunity.” BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED After Schoewe delivered the strategic overview, An analyst who didn’t identify himself com- MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR fi nancial analysts pressed him during a question- mented: “If you look at history, the stock price CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR and-answer session to justify the decision to rein will benefi t most from improving comps in the DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. in spending on the U.S., the world’s largest con- U.S. and it just feels like the board continues to sumer market, in order to invest in countries such do things that aren’t necessarily generating share- as Japan, where Wal-Mart has been challenged in holder value.” efforts to make a profi t. In his response, Schoewe cited Mexico and The $345 billion retailer has struggled with Canada as foreign expansions that dented returns a stagnant stock price and decreasing returns initially but now produce among the highest pre- In Brief on its U.S. business, where stores have been tax returns in Wal-Mart’s portfolio.“Our board has coping with operational gaffes and a core cus- an obligation to think not just about next quarter’s ● IZOD EXPANDS PRODUCT OFFERINGS: Phillips-Van tomer under pressure from gas prices and lack results, but fi ve or 10 or 15 years from now,” he Heusen Corp. has signed three new licenses for its Izod brand. of wage growth. said. “And that’s why you’ll see us entering coun- M.Z. Berger & Co. will design and produce three collections Domestic square footage growth, about 9 per- tries like India.” of men’s, women’s and unisex watches under the Izod brand. cent in 2006, will drop to about 6 percent this year. Another analyst pointed out that the compa- The watches will be launched for holiday and retail from $85 to Spending on new Supercenters and clubs will ny’s reasons for staying in Germany, from which $195. For accessories and handbags, Accessory Network Group drop from about $8 billion in 2006 to $4.5 to $5 bil- Wal-Mart withdrew in 2006 after failing to make a is producing collections for Izod bowing for spring and ranging lion in 2009. The company plans to build or relo- profi t, were similar to ones being offered now for from $15 to $75. SG Footwear, Izod’s slipper licensee, will now cate about 170 Supercenters next year and about continued investments in Japan. also make beach footwear for men and women under the Izod 140 the year after, compared with recent years Schoewe described the German experience as label, starting for spring. They will retail from $25 to $35. Each when 200 to 300 such projects was the norm. “expensive tuition” on what not to do when ex- of the licenses cover the U.S. and Canada. In contrast, Wal-Mart will increase square foot- panding internationally. In contrast, he said Wal- age outside the U.S. from 17 million in the 2007 Mart’s entry into Japan was carefully studied by a ● LAYERING UP: With San Diego Chargers Shawne Merriman fi scal year to 28 to 30 million square feet by the group of executives before any acquisition. serving as spokesman, Burlington Coat Factory is operating One Warm Coat Drive, a nationwide effort that will run through Nov. 11. Working with the nonprofi t groups One Warm Coat and the Salvation Army, the 394-unit retail chain has drop-off boxes in each of its stores. The collected coats for women, men and Costco Files Suit Against Yves Saint Laurent Entities children will be donated to 100 local organizations.

ostco Wholesale Corp. filed a lawsuit against Yves Saint Laurent Parfums SA, YSL Beauté Inc. and ● ETTINGER JOINS SAFILO: Safilo USA has named Robin CQuality King Distributors in federal court in Brooklyn, N.Y., on Wednesday asking for a declaratory Scheer Ettinger as vice president of marketing for the firm’s judgment involving the sale of alleged counterfeit perfume. wholesale optical and retail sunglass divisions, as well as According to legal documents obtained this week, Costco said it purchased 2,500 units of product the company’s retail division that encompasses the Solstice purported to be genuine Opium perfume from Quality King Distributors for $87,500. YSL Parfums and Sunglass Boutique and Sunsights by Solstice sunwear chains. YSL Beauté contacted the warehouse club retailer on Oct. 2 to demand that it stop selling the product She joins the company from the National Kitchen and Bath because the beauty fi rms alleged that the goods were counterfeit. Association, where as director of marketing she oversaw the Neither YSL Beauté and YSL Parfums or Quality King Distributors could be reached for comment association’s marketing initiatives for the $265 billion kitchen by press time. and bath remodeling and design industry. She reports to Dick Costco claimed in its complaint that, since initiating contact, the YSL companies involved have not Russo, executive vice president of Safilo USA. provided the retailer with evidence about the products in question. Costco removed the perfume from shelves on Oct. 11, after receiving a letter from YSL that included a proposed lawsuit. As of press time, ● NEW ZEALAND TEST RESULTS: An investigation by New no documents appear to have been fi led by YSL against Costco. Zealand’s Ministry of Consumer Affairs found that 97 of the Costco alleged in its complaint that Quality King is responsible for the mishap and liable for costs 99 apparel and textile items tested contained either little or and expenses associated with the lawsuit, including any damages determined. The complaint asked the no formaldehyde, which can cause rashes and, in extreme court to declare whether Costco’s sale of the perfume infringed YSL’s rights and whether Quality King cases, cancer. Two items had more than the acceptable 100 is liable to Costco and to YSL. parts per million, but a simple washing solved the problem. This is not the fi rst time Costco and YSL have been tangled in lawsuits. In April, YSL Parfums and The government said tests by a consumer watchdog TV show YSL Beauté fi led a lawsuit against Costco in Manhattan federal court for allegedly repackaging and that had turned up unsafe levels of the chemical were not selling cosmetic and beauty products. That case is ongoing. conducted properly. — Liza Casabona WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 3 WWD.COM Hermès Doubles Up in Paris Coach Shares Falter By Robert Murphy Indeed, much of the new store looks like the old one. Differences include undulating wave-like plaster After Pared Forecast PARIS — Hermès has given its historic fl agship here a walls in the women’s shoe department and chrome racks new wing. with curving spear-like tops on which the women’s col- By Vicki M. Young The French luxury house on Tuesday unveiled a lections hang. Besides the mosaic fl oor, the new space re- 4,000-square-foot extension to its store at 24 Rue du prises the old store’s crystal ceiling lamps and Egyptian hares of Coach Inc. fell 11.8 percent in trading Faubourg Saint-Honoré, which almost doubles the space ceiling friezes. STuesday after the company warned traffic at its U.S. allocated to the women’s ready-to-wear collections de- Thomas, who reminisced about the store’s past illustri- retail stores was slowing. The warning came as the ac- signed by Jean Paul Gaultier. ous clients (including Jean Cocteau, Marlene Dietrich and cessories firm posted a first-quarter profit that beat Wall All told, the addition, overseen by architect Rena Richard Nixon, who incidentally spent an hour marooned Street analysts’ consensus estimates by 1 cent. Dumas, expands the store’s total selling space by about in the elevator when it got stuck between fl oors), said Coach on Tuesday posted a 23.2 percent jump in fi rst- the expanded women’s space underscored quarter income, and a 27.8 percent spike in sales. For Hermès’ ambitions to grow the category. the three months ended Sept. 29, income was $154.8 mil- Thomas also highlighted the strength of lion, or 42 cents a diluted share, compared with year-ago the fragrance business, which now is housed earnings of $125.6 million, or 34 cents. On a continuing in a small, mirrored cubical space on the operations basis, income rose by 34.3 percent to $154.8 ground fl oor. Other categories given more million from $115.2 million. Sales grew to $676.7 million room include small leather goods (agendas, from $529.4 million. belts and gloves) and men’s shoes. The company said direct-to-consumer sales jumped Though the store has been running at re- 26 percent to $508 million from $404 million last year, duced space, store manager Laurence Reulet while same-store sales rose 19.3 percent, with retail said business has been robust with a “just stores up 10.8 percent and factory store sales skyrock- under double-digit” gain for the year to date. eting 27.3 percent. Sales in Japan increased 17 percent She said all categories are growing equally, on a constant-currency basis, while dollar sales rose with silk scarves turning in a good perfor- 15 percent adjusted for a weaker yen. Indirect sales mance. Reulet said waiting lists for up to a climbed 35 percent to $169 million from $125 million year and a half persist for models of the pe- a year ago. rennially best-selling Birkin bag, which can The big news for investors was cost between 4,000 euros, or $5,672 at cur- the warning Coach issued regard- rent exchange, for a simple leather version ing weakened store traf- to 110,000 euros, or $155,980, for the diamond fi c. That caused a sell- and crocodile bag currently displayed in the off of the stock, which window. (It has yet to be sold.) closed at $36.58 in Exclusive products were created to fete trading Tuesday on A view of Hermès’ expanded store. the store. There are about 10 canvas and the New York Stock leather handbags (1,800 to 4,900 euros, or Exchange. More a third to 17,000 square feet. That makes the store the $2,552 to $6,948) embroidered with the neoclassical than 33.5 million largest Hermès emporium in the world, just ahead of the motif from the store’s mosaic tiled fl oors; a “cham- shares traded, com- 16,000-square-foot shop in Tokyo’s Ginza. pagne” trunk replete with Saint Louis crystal goblets pared with a three- “This is the heart of our house,” Patrick Thomas, and a silver Puiforcat ice bucket (165,000 euros, or month average vol- Hermès’ chief executive offi cer, said at a news confer- $233,970), and an elaborate backgammon set (35,000 ume of 5.2 million. ence attended by Hermès family members, including euros, or $49,630). Intraday trading co-artistic directors Pascale Mussard and Pierre-Alexis Six silk scarves embroidered by François Lesage have ranged from a high Dumas. “It is our icon.” also been created, as have a small selection of jewelry of $38.94 to a low of The store is also an important cash-generating ma- pieces by Pierre Hardy, who also designs Hermès shoes. $36.15. chine. Sources estimate annual sales of the fl agship Meanwhile, an around-the-clock party to inaugu- In a telephone are 150 million euros, or $212.7 million. Asked if sales rate the expanded space started Tuesday evening. As interview, Lew would increase commensurate to the new square foot- Hermès likes quirky symbolism, the 24-hour shindig to Frankfort, chairman age, or by about a third, Thomas said: “We’re keeping fete 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré was scheduled for Oct. and chief executive our fi ngers crossed.” 24. Among those slated to perform were Jane Birkin, offi cer, said the traffi c Renovation of the space took about a year. Dumas the Birkin bag’s namesake; French pop star Camille, as warning for U.S. retail meant it as a seamless transition between the existing well as a panoply of musical acts, from Bollywood-style stores applied only A large patchwork duffel bag from historic space, with mosaic tiled fl oors and lush wood- song and opera arias to fl amenco and a late-night disco to same-store sales, Coach’s Bleecker collection, its paneled walls, and a new modern point of view. Much of lounge, with music provided by the likes of Paul Sevigny and that the company latest lifestyle offering. that was achieved with a premise of transparency. and Ariel Wizman. The evening was slated to end with wanted to be cautious Dividers were cleaved of translucent glass, and a new, onion soup and a yoga class. in light of the tough retail environment and since the transparent glass staircase links the ground fl oor men’s “We wanted to have fun, like we were inviting friends current quarter’s sales are also up against very high department with the new women’s area on the fi rst level. over to the house for a party,” said Stephane Wargnier, comps of 21 percent last year. With data from just 15 “The idea was to give the space fi nesse and elegance,” Hermès’ corporate communications director. “Everyone percent of the current quarter in, traffi c so far is up 10 said Pierre-Alexis Dumas. “We wanted that it be modern, does these serious store openings. We just wanted some- percent within the same stores that contributed to last but also refer to the past subtly, like with the mosaic fl oors.” thing completely off the wall.” year’s comps, according to the ceo. Sales at Coach factory stores are better than usual, And when queried about the style Jacobs himself will design the rug. due to the unseasonably warm weather in recent weeks, icon of the decade, Field protested. “I he said. Fashion Scoops don’t think so much in decades — to me CLOSE ENCOUNTERS: The Council of “Our business is extremely strong, driving [sales to a decade is like a breath of air. I think Fashion Designers of America’s Business an expected gain of] 20 percent this quarter and the rest MUSIC MAKES THE PEOPLE COME TOGETHER: in eons,” she said, eventually settling on Service Network kicked into full gear on of the fi scal year’s topline. The bottom line is expected “We kindly request that all attendees be Cleopatra as her choice. (As for Doonan, Tuesday with a breakfast at the Carlton to grow at the same level,” he said. under 40,” said a tiny postscript on the he noted, “All my style icons are dead Hotel in Midtown Manhattan. There were In addition, Frankfort pointed out that the company invitation to “Intersextion: Rock & Roll — beginning with Nancy Cunard.”) eight tables hosted by different inaugural is seeing a “higher conversion rate, even with lower lev- Runway Retrospective.” But apparently, But perhaps most importantly, Dash members, and those in attendance were els of traffi c. There is more buying once they come to that didn’t apply to the speakers at the explained the allure of baggy pants for encouraged to move around and make our store.” panel, held Monday night at Carnegie rap artists: “Let me give you the secret connections. “It’s kind of like speed Coach attributes its continued success in part to fa- Hall, since four out of the six (Patricia about loose clothes and hip-hop. Before dating,” joked Steven Kolb, the CFDA’s vorable reception by consumers to the monthly prod- Field, Tommy Ramone, Simon Doonan 50 Cent and LL Cool J got all diesel, executive director. uct launches starting in July with Carly, followed by and photographer Mark Seliger) are over everyone was kind of overweight.” The initiative was conceived by Hamptons and Legacy and its latest, Bleecker. that age. Zac Posen and Damon Dash CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, For holiday, Frankfort said, “Bleecker is the corner- rounded out the sextet, making for lively MIDDLE EASTERN PROMISE: Marc Jacobs who didn’t make it because she was stone of our marketing activities. For the fi rst time we exchanges on music and style that at and Robert Duffy’s annual holiday party participating in a governor’s conference are offering fragrance and body lotion. [We are also of- times resembled a fashion “McLaughlin is one of the most anticipated events with Maria Shriver on the West Coast. fering a] much expanded assortment of jewelry in all of Group.” of the season — not least because That didn’t stop more than 100 our stores.” There was some disagreement of the different theme each year, the designers and business executives from Frankfort doesn’t see a slowdown in customer accep- about the grunge look, with Posen imaginative costumes, a costume showing up though, including Andrew tance of the $400-plus handbag. If anything, acceptance pointing out, “There’s defi nitely a thing contest and, well, the punctual start. Rosen, Charles Nolan, Lord & Taylor’s of that price point and higher ones is only going to grow. of disheveled glamour, grunge, that’s After venturing to Venice last year, Richard Baker and LaVelle Olexa, Yeohlee Bags over $400 represented 25 percent of sales in the in the air right now. It was on Marc Jacobs and Duffy have made “Arabian Teng, Esteban Cortazar, Vera Wang’s last quarter, which is a doubling of handbag sales in that Jacobs’ runway.” Dash’s rejoinder? “I Nights” their theme for the fete at the Susan Sokol, Zac Posen’s Susan Posen, range in the year-ago period, he said. never understood that. Like, it’s cool Rainbow Room on Dec. 12. The invited Karen Harvey and Designers & Agents’ “We see an enormous white space between $400 to be dirty?” The night was also fueled guests should note to be extra creative Ed Mandelbaum and Barbara Kramer. and $1,000. The European luxury price is over $1,000 by some personal revelations: Ramone with their wardrobe choices. According Duckie Brown designer Daniel Silver used a bag, and our average is just over $300. We’ve seen admitted to “buying women’s clothing to the invite, contest judges will include the opportunity to introduce himself a very strong interest among our consumers wanting and putting it on” during his pre-punk Lawrence of Arabia, Genie in the Bottle, to J.C. Penney’s president and chief a more elevated product with better materials and a days in a Seventies glam-rock band. Ali Baba, Aladdin, The 40 Thieves and merchandising offi cer Ken Hicks to make fi ner make at an attractive price point between $400 When moderator Doonan asked if there Princess Jasmine, and “Anyone not in a case for a potential secondary line at and $800,” the ceo said. were photos of the getups, Ramone masquerade will be fl own away on the a lower price point. “You don’t ask, you He also noted that consumers at the entry price point admitted, “They exist, unfortunately.” magic carpet.” No word on whether don’t get,” Silver joked. are eyeing wristlets and pouches, while the stylish affl u- ent consumer is looking for the elevated product. 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 China’s Promise: Arnault O

Bernard Arnault at the Great Wall of China.

Continued from page one the next 25 years? Are we not going to have ups The facade of the How quickly things have changed. Today, and downs? That remains to be seen, but cur- Louis Vuitton store at Beijing’s broad, spotless streets are clogged rently, China is going very strongly.” Shanghai’s Plaza 66. with cars, water gushes 24/7 from fountains in Last week’s Fendi extravaganza, which front of fancy hotels and Vuitton’s boutique in cost an estimated $10 million, was certainly a Shanghai’s Plaza 66 complex does more busi- major statement from LVMH about the impor- ness than the store in Chicago. tance of China to the luxury sector and to its “The development over the past 15 years has future fortunes. That the event coincided with been spectacular,” Arnault said in an interview the National Congress of the Communist Party last week, just a few hours before Fendi staged underscored how foreign luxury players have a dazzling fashion show atop the Great Wall, the plenty of room to maneuver within the country’s wife of the Chinese prime minister seated at his strict, socialist framework. elbow. “It’s still technically a socialist country, Indeed, the central messages from Chinese but it operates with a free market economy that leaders at the congress should be welcome is many times more liberal and effi cient than a news to Arnault: a vow to make economic de- number of European countries. velopment the government’s central task and to “If the economy continues at the same rate, create a more prosperous society. 25 years from now China will be the greatest “Private enterprises are more appreci- global economic power, which means we will ated [in China] than in a certain number of have a potential comparable to the United [European] countries,” Arnault said. “When States today,” he declared. “If things continue you take a survey on the free market economy at this rhythm, [China] will be the most impor- in China, and do the same poll in France, public tant country on the economic agenda for a busi- opinion in China is better in terms of the im- ness like ours.” pression of the advantages a free market econo- In a wide-ranging discussion, Arnault shared my can bring to the population.” his views on everything from the prospect of To be sure, LVMH has been a pioneer in Chinese fashion brands to the country’s growing China, with Hennessy cognac sold there since reputation for innovative architecture. the 19th century. Today, LVMH enjoys an esti- And he was unequivocal that China would mated market share in excess of 50 percent for soon leapfrog over the top three global markets cognac, and Arnault said the group’s wines and for luxury goods — the United States, Japan and spirits division is performing “very strongly,” Europe — to become number one. Last year, with sales of some liquors growing at a rate of Asia excluding Japan accounted for 17 percent 15 percent annually. of LVMH’s revenues, which totaled 15.31 billion “And now the Chinese are starting to drink more euros, or $19.23 billion at average exchange wine and Champagne,” he said. “It’s the same ten- rates. Asia’s sales compare to the 26 percent of dency we observed in Japan during the Nineties.” revenues that comes from the U.S., 13 percent In terms of fashion, LVMH fi rst began selling from Japan, 15 percent from France and 22 per- accessibly priced products such as lipstick and cent from the rest of Europe. face cream in China. “Following that, we sold “The level of consumption [in China] will leather goods, and eventually clothing. And now increase, the quality of life will improve,” an we sell everything,” he said. upbeat, relaxed Arnault said over coffee in a Indeed, Fendi operates 10 boutiques in sumptuous suite at the Grand Hyatt Hotel here. China and Vuitton has 18 in cities such as Xian,

“Are we going to have profi ts continuously over Chengdu, Shenzhen, Hangzhou and Shenyang, STEPHANE FEUGERE; VUITTON ANTOINE JARRIER PHOTOS BY SHANGHAI STORE BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 5 WWD.COM Out to Keep LVMH at No. 1 as well as Beijing and Shanghai. As many as 10 more Vuitton stores are slated to open next year, while Fendi Arnault visited the “bird’s nest” stadium under will add fi ve more stores in 2008, including in Nanjing, construction for summer’s Olympic Games in Beijing. Dalian and Changchun. Arnault noted that revenues at boutiques in Beijing and Shanghai are comparable to those in other cities around the world, excepting big capitals like Paris, New York or Rome. The executive declined to give fi gures, but asserted LVMH is the market leader in luxury in China and that the company has operated profi tably in the country since the mid-Nineties. “While certain American brands have invested a great deal and lost money, we have always strived to be profi table here. For us, it’s a true economic reality,” he said. “We began to see business take off dur- ing the early Nineties, and at that precise moment we decided to invest. We were the fi rst; we were the pio- neers of development in China, and now all the brands are present and we are developing them actively.” That LVMH arrived early certainly provided a com- petitive edge, Arnault explained. “It’s an advantage because we became the leaders of the market. In cosmetics, for example, Dior is the most well-known and strongest cosmetic brand. And as we in- vest strongly year after year, we will try to maintain this advantage,” he said. “The fact that we were fi rst gives us a strong position. It’s the same thing for Vuitton. We are very, very far ahead of number two.” With a portfolio of brands that includes Givenchy, Pucci, Loewe, Sephora and Marc Jacobs, LVMH can ne- gotiate important positions within retail developments, and even play a role in urban planning. For example, the new Seasons Mall on Beijing’s west side — a vast scale in preparation for next year’s Summer Olympics. are so much in demand by the Chinese. They equate shopping mecca for workers in the fi nancial district — Not only are there forests of cranes constructing build- them with quality, innovation and at the same time, a includes units for Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, Loewe, ings all over the sprawling metropolis, but workers part of the history of Europe, which speaks to them.” Givenchy and Marc by Marc Jacobs. are scrubbing sidewalks by hand during the night, and Besides investing heavily in store networks for “You can plan what will become the zone of luxury. washing trees to remove dust and pollution. LVMH’s various brands, Arnault has made important We chose the cities, and what will be the equivalent of Although limited spending power still puts luxury acquisitions in China. Last May, LVMH took a 55 per- an Avenue Montaigne [in Paris],” said Arnault. goods out of reach of the vast majority of the population, cent stake in Wen Jun Distillery, a Chinese maker of In China, many developments are mall-based, since few Chinese consumers are swiftly becoming more sophisti- premium white spirits. And through his personal hold- cities have defi ned or suitable downtown zones. In Beijing, cated and knowledgeable about international fashion. ing, Groupe Arnault, the business titan made an invest- popular destinations for high-end stores include Shin In addition, even a small percentage of 1.3 billion peo- ment estimated at about $30 million this year in Belle International Holdings Ltd., a giant Chinese shoe re- tailer. He is also said to own considerable real estate in We were the fi rst; we were the pioneers of development in China and Macau, much of it destined for retail use. “ A major afi cionado of architecture — he commis- China, and now all the brands are present and we are developing sioned Frank Gehry to construct a cloud-like building in Paris for a forthcoming Louis Vuitton art foundation — them actively. Arnault took time during his Beijing stay to view Herzog ” & de Meuron’s spellbinding “bird’s nest” stadium being — Bernard Arnault, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton constructed for next summer’s games. “It’s interesting to see today how architecture is im- Kong Plaza and the mall inside the China World Trade ple is still a large market by Western standards. pacting the development of big cities in China, such Center. Many of the more upmarket malls are attached to “At the beginning of the last decade, the Chinese as Beijing,” he said. “What interests us the most is to hotels, such as the Grand Hyatt or the Peninsula. didn’t have the right to leave China,” Arnault explained. participate in luxury centers where one can also have Arnault asserted LVMH is helping to bring develop- “Now they can travel….It’s a movement that expos- hotels and offi ces, but with an original architectural im- ments of architectural interest to China, just as it has es them to brands when they go to Paris, to Rome, to pact.” done in Rome with the restoration of a grand palazzo New York. They now go to Russia or to adjacent desti- Asked to name his favorite city in China, Arnault for Fendi, or in Tokyo with its sparkling, high-tech tow- nations in Asia; to Macau or to Hong Kong, where the said, “It’s probably Shanghai. I know that’s not very ers for Vuitton and Dior. number of Mainland Chinese tourists have replaced the original, but there is also Hangzhou, with a magnifi cent “We think we have a know-how which can be very Japanese.” lake. It’s very pleasant.” During his trip, Arnault also interesting in a country like China. Instead of doing a That said, Arnault estimates it will take one or two visited Nanjing. group of look-alike buildings, we try each time to do generations before China might produce its own brands But bringing Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini something creative that creates a reason for the con- of international stature. “A luxury brand is not only Fendi to China, and staging the Fendi event was cer- sumer to visit a luxury store. China is probably the about creativity and innovative products, but also his- tainly a lightning bolt about the market’s importance. country with the most construction projects of this torical legitimacy,” he said. “In the minds of consumers, “It’s in China and before the [2008] Olympics,” type,” he said. [luxury brands] are attached to a past. It’s for that rea- Arnault said. “It’s a big symbol for China. It’s where To be sure, the city is being spiffed up on a staggering son that European brands like Fendi, Dior and Vuitton things are happening today.”

The old and the new: The Forbidden City and its portrait of Mao are symbols of China’s Communist past, while Beijing’s booming construction shows its economic future. 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007

Givenchy

Hanging Loose Easy does it. Designers took a turn away from structured volume for spring and opted, instead, for a softer touch in languid, slouchy or defl ated silhouettes. WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Donna Karan Calvin Klein

MaxMara Lanvin

Anne Klein PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA GIANNONI AND MAURICIO GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 WWD.COM Knitwear Report Luxury Knit Brands Expand Into Fashion Collections

By Whitney Beckett Malo uxury knitwear houses want to be known for more than their sweaters, and for spring are offering full col- Llections brimming with dresses and other novelty pieces. Dresses, cardigans and complete novelty pieces in bright colors and toned-down volume will complement the traditional stable of knits next season. Malo’s Orient-inspired collection features more silk and intricate beading than the luxury knitwear on which the brand has built its reputation. Malo launched a full fashion collection for spring 2007, and that part of the business continues to grow. New York-based Tse also featured far more than knits in its spring line. “We are a knitwear house, but we are trying to be recognized as a fashion house, so we are adding more woven pieces and using new techniques,” said a Tse spokeswoman. “We are doing less classical knitwear and more interesting pieces.” Many manifestations of the concept of “imprint” inspired Tse’s spring collection: imprinted prints, layer- ing and fabric and texture mixes. Dresses, which is an important category for the collection, features a piece made of double-layered, fi ne-gauge jacquard, with the top layer removed in portions. A tunic — another key item — is a hand-knit pointelle mesh. Many pieces also combine woven and knit fabrics, juxtaposing heavy and light textures. In addition to a white palette, Tse also offered the color stories of navy with saffron, safari tan and turquoise, poppy red, and gray and black. Tse’s spring knits wholesale from $150 to $350 and sell at Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and specialty stores, in addition to Tse’s own stores, including one in New York slated to open in January. Launched in 2002, contemporary knitwear brand Kier+J, which wholesales from $40 to $120 and is sold in 150 doors including Fred Segal, added more fashion-forward pieces for spring. While its business was built with basic sweaters making up more than half of sales, the company this fall entered the designer contempo- rary area with the addition of dresses. Dresses and novelty pieces now make up almost 75 percent of sales. For spring, 30 percent of Kier+J’s bodies are jackets and cardigans designed to go on top of dresses, and the fi rm predicts such toppers could account for half of sales going forward. “Women now come to us for more than sweaters,” said Tom Kao, president of Kier+J. “It used to be for us the big thing were sweaters, just simple open-neck tops, but we’ve found customers will pay more money to buy the special pieces.” In addition to the key role of dresses and dress-complementing layering pieces — “from mini shrunken cardigans to oversize easy pieces,” said Kao — color is the other big trend story. “For spring, colors are very important,” Kao said. “Our customers are buying the grassy greens, bright blues, mustard yellows and spicy reds. Going forward we will introduce even more colors.” At bridge resource Magaschoni, the fashion collection component of the fi rm is becoming as important as the knits for which the fi rm is famous. On the knit side of the business, dresses and cardigans continue to be hits. The New York-based company’s showroom holds a rainbow of colors, including yellow and green. “Colors for spring are a lot fresher — strong colors are back, like reds, corals, yellows and turquoises, but are still tempered with neutrals,” said Christopher Fischer, president and chief executive offi cer of his knit line. “Shapes are still voluminous and looser, but also there are some cleaner, cuter shapes with volume in length but more fi tted to the body.” Fischer’s line, which wholesales from $55 to $159, is carried at retailers including Saks Kier+J Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Holt Renfrew in Canada. Cardigans and wraps over dresses are important categories for spring, and standard sweaters feature open scoop and ballerina necks, and use featherweight cashmeres, as well as some pure linens and cottons. Christopher Fischer Angela Horton, whose history at luxury linen label Frette inspired her to create a line of cashmere blankets, is launching her fi rst full women’s knit collection for spring. The line wholesales from $300 to $8,000 and will be sold at a limited number of doors, in- cluding Calypso and Stanley Korshak. Knit dresses, jackets and tunics play an important role in Horton’s freshman, St. Barth’s-inspired collection. The color palette is full of creams and whites, with feminine “starbursts of color,” like green and lavender. Pieces also mix fabrics, such as gingham detailing on a cashmere dress, to create novelty.

Magaschoni Tse PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 9 WWD.COM Ann Taylor Neiman Marcus Feted at DFAs By Holly Haber DALLAS — The 32nd annual Dallas Fashion Awards was an- other celebratory stop on the Neiman Marcus centennial tour. The hometown luxury retailer received the Fashion Excellence Award Sunday at a gala sponsored by and held in the Dallas Market Center. In addition, designers such as Nicole Miller, an- other honoree, referred to Neiman’s importance in their careers. In her acceptance speech, Miller noted she had been in Dallas during the previous week to attend Neiman’s 100th an- niversary parties. “Dallas keeps calling me back,” she said. “There’s something about Texas, and the retailers here have been very supportive of me.”

Karen Katz and Burt Phillip Lim and Nicole Miller Tansky

DALLAS FASHION AWARD WINNERS ACCESSORIES: Francesco Biasia AFTER 5: Nicole Miller BRIDGE/DESIGNER: Lafayette 148 CASUAL CONTEMPORARY: Paige Premium Denim CHILDREN’S WEAR: Le Top CONTEMPORARY: Johnny Was

Studying the Classics the Studying JEWELRY: Brighton It was a trip at Ann Taylor’s spring runway — to Saint-Tropez, that is. On Monday, Michael MODERNWEAR: Tyler Böe Smaldone showed a vibrant palette reminiscent of the European hot spot circa 1960 in retro silhouettes that included sheath dresses and trapeze coats. Meanwhile, at Ann Taylor Town & Country editor Pamela Loft, Shari Hershon opted for looks with a classic American style. Casual pieces were Fiori, who presented Neiman’s award presented in a playful way in denim, khaki and stripes mixed in with fl orals or metallics. to company president and chief ex- ecutive officer Karen Katz, praised Ann Taylor Loft the retailer for forward thinking and for knowing “how to talk to both” old wealth and new money. “The Baby Boomer is the most pow- erful woman in America, and Neiman Marcus caters to her,” Fiori said. “I’m proud to be a Neiman Marcus woman and also a Bergdorf brunette.” It’s been a giddy season for Neiman’s, which marked its anniversa- PHOTOS BY NAN COULTER PHOTOS BY ry with galas at the Cotton Bowl stadi- Lafayette 148 designer um and in the downtown fl agship here. Edward Wilkerson. “We continue the party, so that is a good thing,” Katz said, before ascending the stage. In her acceptance speech, Katz noted that a search for “Neiman Marcus” on eBay turned up 5,300 items. “The anniversary pop-up book is selling for $159 on eBay, so come to the store and buy it for $100,” she said. “I swear the Manolo Blahnik jeweled sandals [for sale on eBay] that were worn to the gala are not mine.” Katz said she’s been asked a lot lately for fashion tips, and her advice is: “Always wear comfortable shoes.” Phillip Lim also received a special prize, the Rising Star Award presented to him by Ken Downing, Neiman’s senior vice president and fashion director. “If you talk to fashion editors, any chic women, and you ask them what do they want to wear? They all say Phillip Lim,” Downing said, describing Lim as a “sensation.” Lim has been in business less than three years, but he already has been named a Rising Star by Fashion Group International in 2006 and is a fi nalist in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition. “I am taken aback and blown away by this award,” Lim said. “It’s been an amazing ride.” Winners were announced in the annual Dallas Fashion Awards competition, in which retailers voted for their top-selling, most fashionable labels in eight categories. The evening benefi ted Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS and the scholarship Ann Taylor fund of Fashion Group International’s Dallas chapter. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 WWD.COM

lead an orchestra in a medley of his original scores and Elton John will honor the music from Inter Parfums Trims Forecast MEMO PAD animated features. — A.W. PARIS — Driven by sales of Roxy and & Arpels inventories to meet demand WILL THERE BE COAT THROWING?: “The Sex THE TIMES TO A T: The New York Times Co.’s Paul Smith Rose fragrances, Inter and a slower-than-expected start-up of and the City” movie has so far outgunned News Media Group saw advertising decrease Parfums SA announced third-quarter our European distribution subsidiar- “The Devil Wears Prada” in one big way: It 1.4 percent for the third quarter, but the T: sales were up 8.4 percent year-on-year ies have reduced earnings visibility. got to shoot in the offi ces of Vogue one day Women’s Fashion magazine proved an ad at 65.1 million euros, or $89.5 million at Net profi t is expected to be around 19 last week, according to Willie Garson, who is magnet for the company. The title drew the constant exchange for the three-month million euros [or $27 million] for fi scal reprising his role as Stanford Blatch in the largest number of ad pages of any New York period. But given an ongoing unfavor- year 2007. These developments in no movie, due to be released in May. Garson Times magazine since 1984. Janet Robinson, able currency impact, the firm trimmed way affect our ambitions and our road revealed the fi lming inside 4 Times Square president and chief executive offi cer of the up to 10 million euros, or $14.3 million, plan for the years ahead.” at Monday night’s party to celebrate the third New York Times Co., said during an earnings from its full-year sales forecasts. The fi rm said in the statement a neg- season of the television series “Iconoclasts.” conference call the company will continue to The company, which is a subsidiary ative currency effect of an estimated 4 And while Anna Wintour won’t show up on develop the T Magazine franchise, confi rming of New York-based Inter Parfums Inc., million euros, or $5.7 million, on op- screen (not even dressed as Meryl Streep), she the December launches of T Magazine online said the negative impact of the strong erating profi t will be limited “by tight did consult on the sequences, according to and International T (which will focus on euro, expected control over oper- a spokeswoman for the fi lm, while André Leon women’s fashion, men’s fashion, travel, design to weigh in at ating expenses.” Talley and Patrick Demarchelier will make cameo and holiday), inside the International Herald around 5 million For the nine appearances. A spokesman for Vogue declined Tribune. “A lot of luxury advertisers have euros to 6 million months ended to comment. — Amy Wicks embraced that buy,” Robinson added. euros, or $7 mil- BEAUTY BEAT Sept. 30, sales to- Net income for the company rose 6.7 lion to $8.6 mil- taled 175.4 million LOVING THE MOVIES FOR THE AD PAGES: A bunch percent from the third quarter in 2006, to lion at current exchange, will mean euros, or $235.8 million, representing an of Condé Nast Publications titles got a nice $13.4 million. Operating profi t increased 57.1 its full-year sales are likely to come in increase of 8.8 percent. At constant ex- bump to their ad pages in September from percent to $28.1 million. Staff reduction costs at between 235 million euros and 240 change, sales were up 11.2 percent in the the Fashion Rocks supplement that appeared for the quarter were $4.9 million, compared million euros, or $335.1 million and third quarter and 11.7 percent in the fi rst with their issues, and now 14 of them will with $7.4 million from the previous year’s third $342.2 million. It had previously fore- nine months of the year. get another windfall in their December issues quarter. However, the company is predicting cast 2007 sales in the region of 245 mil- The fi rm said France, the Middle from Movies Rock. The titles getting most of $14 million to $16 million in reduction costs lion euros, or $349.4 million. East and Eastern Europe generated the additional pages in December are Vanity during the fourth quarter. Speaking to the “After very robust growth in July double-digit sales growth so far this year sharp increase, a spokeswoman said: “We and August, September came in below while trends in Western Europe and are consolidating the operations of our New our expectations,” said Philippe North America remained “positive.” York-area printing plants. We announced the Benacin, the company’s chairman Inter Parfums also said its licensing consolidation in July 2006. We expect to and chief executive offi cer, in a state- agreement with Quiksilver has been ex- complete the consolidation in the fi rst half of ment. “In contrast, October sales re- tended to include men’s scents. A fi rst 2008.” — A.W. main on target. The weak U.S. dollar, line is scheduled to launch in fall 2008. challenges in building up Van Cleef — Ellen Groves CREATIVE BUSINESSMEN: Despite the defection of publisher Joe Lagani to Glam Media on its kickoff day, House & Garden’s fi rst design week seemed to hum along as planned. Fashion was well-represented among the 45 events Anti-Counterfeit Trade Deal Sought around Manhattan, including an industry-only breakfast panel hosted by the magazine last By Evan Clark week on the business of being creative. There, Coach president and executive creative director WASHINGTON — Seeking to clamp down on counterfeiters by strengthening Reed Krakoff emphasized staying true to your international cooperation and toughening laws, the U.S., European Union and vision. “Say Macy’s wants something — I’m just six other trading partners presented plans Tuesday to negotiate an anticoun- making up Macy’s as a bad guy…” he began, terfeiting trade agreement. and the chuckling panel turned to see the “This is a global problem that robs individuals and businesses of billions of reaction of co-panelist Linda Fargo of Bergdorf dollars,” said U.S. Trade Representative Susan Schwab, fl anked by lawmak- Goodman. “We’re not in Bergdorf,” Krakoff ers at a Capitol Hill press conference. “The crooks are fast, so we need to be added. “We’re not allowed in Bergdorf!” faster in this knowledge-driven global economy.” And design guru Murray Moss clued in the Canada, Japan, South Korea, Mexico, New Zealand and Switzerland will audience on his move from fashion to home also take part in the negotiations that Schwab said will help “forge a new design: “Having come from fashion, I was path, a better path, with strong rules and enforcement principles.” always looking over my shoulder.…I thought Counterfeiting and piracy saps $200 billion to $250 billion from the U.S. Fair, Vogue, Glamour and W, while Condé to myself that I was going to make a business economy annually, according to the U.S. Chamber of Commerce. Nast Traveller, GQ, Details, Allure, Lucky, Self plan that was so diffi cult and impractical, The agreement could lead to stronger laws and stricter enforcement stan- and even Cookie also will get a nice chunk no one else would do it. And it helps being dards, while creating a set of best practices and a framework that other coun- of pages. A spokeswoman said that, overall, autobiographical. I don’t have to worry about tries could join. Movies Rock has generated $40 million in being on brand, because I’m just being me.” Although China is not part of the talks, Schwab said the deal could still revenues from advertisers such as Verizon, The hosts of a $1,000-a-head dinner help stem the fl ow of fakes from the country that many counterfeiters use as Citi, Sony, Chevrolet, Estée Lauder Cos., event later that week could have said the their manufacturing base. Dillard’s and TRESemmé. same. Isaac Mizrahi and Mario Batali share “Where you have enhanced enforcement and cross-border and international The section was edited by writer-producer more than outsized personalities — they’re cooperation on intellectual property, that has an impact on whoever is producing Mitch Glazer and Vanity Fair editor in chief also among the savviest self-marketers out the pirated and counterfeit goods,” she said. “It has the potential, and keep in Graydon Carter served as editorial director. there. Gesturing with a wooden spoon around mind we’re still negotiating it, to be both a carrot and a stick. It’s both an opportu- Photographers Bruce Weber, Mark Seliger and Mizrahi’s atelier, Batali welcomed the two nity to set an example and also an opportunity to beef up enforcement.” Norman Jean Roy have also contributed to the tables of guests to what he called “Isaac’s The U.S. has already taken steps in dealing with fakes from China. In supplement that focuses on the celebrities, sweatshop.” Then, lifting his glass, he tossed August, the Bush administration brought a World Trade Organization case directors and musicians involved in the out a trademark bon mot: “As we say in the against the country, challenging its legal protections and enforcement of in- fi lmmaking process. Babbo kitchen, ‘chin-chin, m-----f----r.’” tellectual property rights. Glazer reports on “Shine a Light,” the Mizrahi confi rmed he’ll executive produce upcoming Rolling Stones concert fi lm, a scripted drama set in the fashion industry, directed by Martin Scorsese. He writes about which is in the script-writing phase, with two performances at New York’s Beacon a pilot expected in the spring. He de- Theatre that had Scorsese hunched over a emphasized his biannual magazine and Aerie Expands Offering With f.i.t. bank of monitors saying, “I’m gonna vomit,” pointed to an upcoming Web site relaunch to no one in particular. And Sam Kashner has around the end of this year, with produced merican Eagle Outfitters Inc. has fun, inspiration and technical perfor- a piece on the making of “Saturday Night video segments. As for his dinner co-host’s Aadded workout and fitness wear to mance in a way that’s unique to the Fever” and how John Travolta almost quit the endorsement deal with the decidedly un-haute its aerie collection. marketplace.” fi lm after seeing how his biggest solo dance couture Crocs, Mizrahi said it was a smart Aerie f.i.t., which stands for fun, The collection is currently avail- number was edited. The cover, featuring a call on the company’s part, since Batali was inspirational and technical, targets able online and in 20 stand-alone normally press-shy Bill Murray dressed as an already wearing them daily. “He gave me a the American Eagle female customer aerie stores across the country, as older “Vegas-era” Elvis, was shot by Seliger in pair of Crocs,” said Mizrahi. “I wear them in between ages 15 to 25. The collection well as 25 American Eagle stores with New York. the kitchen as a tribute.” — Irin Carmon includes leggings, shorts, sports bras aerie shops. But Movies Rock is more than a magazine and wind stoppers, among other exer- The aerie concept was launched in — or supplement. As with Fashion Rocks, SHIFTING OVER: The Wall Street Journal’s cise apparel and accessories. 2006 with intimates and dormwear col- there also will be a two-hour show taking fashion-retail-luxury group bureau chief, Each product is made from aerie lections. For the holiday, the company place at the Kodak Theatre in Hollywood Lisa Bannon, is moving on after a year in the Fit Sweat Free Fabric™. The workout will add personal care items, including on Dec. 2 and airing on CBS fi ve days later. position. She’ll be a reporter and editor — an wear is designed to pull moisture away a complete lip care line, body washes Performances will include Beyoncé singing unusual dual role — on the page one section from the body, and includes hidden and lotions, and home fragrance. “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” and Carrie of the Journal, reporting to new page one money pockets, refl ective piping and American Eagle plans to have 40 Underwood performing the title song from “The editor and former Wall Street Journal Europe special fl at-seam construction. stand-alone aerie stores by the end Sound of Music.” Fergie and Jennifer Hudson editor Michael Williams. Six reporters in New “Working out is important to our of the year, and open another 50 to 60 will perform songs from the James Bond York worked under Bannon, with additional aerie customer, so offering a fi tness stores in 2008. fi lms, and Mary J. Blige and John Legend will collaboration from the Paris bureau, and the line is a natural way to complete her Shares of American Eagle on Tuesday be on hand to sing “As Time Goes By” from paper put out an internal call for candidates lifestyle,” Betsy Schumacher, chief closed at $22.36, down 2.5 percent, in trad- “Casablanca.” Composer John Williams will for her former position late Tuesday. — I.C. merchandising offi cer for aerie, said ing on the New York Stock Exchange. in a statement. “Aerie f.i.t. combines — Jeanine Poggi WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 11 WWD.COM Nike to Acquire Umbro In $582M Cash Deal Bendel Hits the Web With New Site mbro plc is poised to grow arty pictures, fashion tips, are plugged in various font ideal since the store celebrated Uits global soccer business fol- Pevent listings and a head- sizes designed to look like cover the 100th anniversary of its sig- lowing Nike Inc.’s all-cash offer line-laden home page are lines. The site was created by nature brown and white stripe of $582 million, or $4 per share. among the editorial-inspired the New York-based boutique last month, Bucciarelli said. The bid is more than a 60 features on Henri Bendel’s first agency No. 11. In addition, the company Henri Bendel’s Web site. percent premium on Umbro’s Web site. Bendel’s chief executive offi - wanted to give online shoppers a closing price last week, and the The retailer’s online pres- cer and president Ed Bucciarelli sense of the eclectic style of the Carlos Falchi, Kooba and oth- stock rose 15 percent on the ence went live Monday and in- said, “We wanted more of a mag- freestanding store. “Of course ers, as well as beauty items from London Stock Exchange Tuesday cludes e-commerce, which at azine approach instead of hav- we wanted to do business on the YSL, Chanel and other brands, on the news of the Umbro this point is restricted to acces- ing the hard-sell Web site.” site. But we didn’t want to do it will be part of the offerings. In board’s unanimous recommen- sories, beauty products and gift The retailer aims to intro- until it made you feel like you terms of apparel, Henri Bendel dation to accept the offer. items. There is also a concierge duce consumers, especially were part of the Henri Bendel sweaters will be featured in the Umbro’s 2006 annual rev- component to help shoppers if those who may have never vis- experience. We’re a girl’s play- online catalogue. The retailer enues were approximately 149.5 they don’t see an item they are ited the Fifth Avenue fl agship, ground,” Bucciarelli said. will gauge online shoppers’ re- million pounds, or $276 million. looking for online. Visitors will to its signature label and all the Some branded products sponse to the branded goods and With licensed sales added, the fi nd information about upcom- merchandise currently online is will be introduced next month, to the initial apparel, and will number goes up to 409.4 million ing trunk shows, fall trends, made by Henri Bendel. No de- when Henri Bendel posts its change the assortment accord- pounds, or $755 million. An ex- fashion illustrations by Izak and signer styles are offered at this early holiday Web site online. ingly, Bucciarelli said. clusive brand for Dick’s Sporting holiday gift ideas — all of which time. The timing for the push is Accessories from Ted Rossi, — Rosemary Feitelberg Goods in the U.S. and Sports Direct in the U.K., Umbro sells apparel, footwear and equip- ment in more than 90 countries, I I

and has soccer marketing rela- I I

tionships, including with the qQ E England national team. e The Buyer eqQE

An Umbro female soccer look.

The acquisition furthers Nike’s soccer business, a key growth category for the firm, which has sales of $1.5 billion, up from just $40 million in the early Nineties. “Umbro is a brand with a pow- erful heritage and deep experi- ence in the world’s most popular sport and the world’s biggest foot- ball [soccer] market,” Mark Parker, Nike Inc. president and chief exec- utive offi cer, said in a statement. If shareholders accept the offer, the 70-year-old-plus Umbro will join Nike’s portfolio of af- filiate brands, which includes Converse, Cole Haan and Hurley International. The division has been a fast-growing one for the Beaverton, Ore.-based active She is smart. She is savvy. She knows what she wants, how to get it, and she’s just a click away. giant. Nike’s portfolio of other businesses represents more than She also has options. Lots of them, both online and offline. So be relevant. To her. $2 billion in sales, and is targeted to contribute a quarter of group revenue growth by fi scal 2011. Keep her engaged. Make her feel like everything you do is just for her. View every email and web “Umbro is a very strong brand page as an opportunity to build a relationship with her. Be relevant and she will be one of your most name in football [soccer], which loyal and profitable customers. is a key growth category for Nike,” according to a Citigroup report, headed by analyst Kate When Fortune 1000 enterprises want to build data-driven, relevant relationships with their custom- McShane. “We think Nike will ers online, they partner with CheetahMail. Using our email marketing, web analytics and database be able to leverage its fi nancial strength, sourcing, product de- marketing solutions, over 350 world-class organizations rely on CheetahMail for the best online velopment knowledge, distribu- marketing programs, platform and services to build increased relevance, loyalty and value. tion and marketing to signifi cant- ly increase growth of the Umbro brand beyond Europe and gener- Contact CheetahMail and learn how we can help you build relevance. ate further market share gains in the global footwear market. About three-fourths of Umbro’s revenues are generated in Europe, and more than a third of sales Be Relevant SM come from the U.K. Citigroup 29 | New York, NY 10006

TEL: 800.396.5709 | [email protected] predicts Nike will significantly SM

expand Umbro’s Asian business,

I which accounts for 15 percent of I sales. Apparel represents 70 per- cent of sales, compared with only I I 20 percent from footwear. — Whitney Beckett 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 WWD.COM WWD West

A helicopter tries to douse fl ames in Spring Valley, Calif. PHOTO BY REUTERS/FRED GREAVES/LANDOV PHOTO BY Industry Economic Toll Widens in Calif.

By Rachel Brown and Khanh T.L. Tran is interrupted and workers can’t get to work and deliveries can’t get made.” Transportation snafus affected trucking and shipping companies and their custom- ildfires in intensified Tuesday, forcing retailers and apparel ers. “The bottom line is this is going to hurt profi ts and raise shipping charges,” said Wmanufacturers to close and raising fears about the economic impact of the disas- Michael Farraj, president of Route 66 Logistics Inc., a freight brokerage service based ter that has driven more than 500,000 people from their homes. in Carson City, Nev. Hot, high winds blew as many as 15 fi res across highways and hills for a third day and Lee Selman, owner of Quiet Hero clothing store in San Diego, said she was seques- consumed more than 365,000 acres, scorching an estimated 1,300 businesses and residenc- tered in her house. The printing shop that is handling a screen-printing order for her es in their paths. President Bush declared a state of emergency to provide federal funds T-shirts closed. “We’re not doing much,” Selman said. and resources after Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger requested the support on Monday. “We are at a standstill,” said Amber Delecce, vice president of Vix swimwear. “We Coping with road closings, damages and staff shortages, companies shut down or can’t ship. To take a precaution yesterday [Monday], we took out a huge U-Haul to hold set up makeshift operations elsewhere. San Diego, all our bikinis. We are more worried about our in- where the fi res hit hardest, is a center for action ventory than our computers.” Fire burns a home in San Diego County. sports retailers and manufacturers, most of which Elizabeth Samford, owner and designer of ABBL were inactive Tuesday as their employees focused Swimwear, was stuck in her downtown San Diego on the safety of their families and properties. home even though the fi res didn’t directly affect VF Corp.-owned Reef, which has more than 100 em- it. She was busy trying to track down the opera- ployees at its Carlsbad, Calif., headquarters and watch- tors of a fashion show scheduled for this weekend, maker Nixon, based in Encinitas, Calif. — both north but was having no luck because they were based in of San Diego — are located in evacuation areas and the Rancho Bernardo neighborhood of San Diego, had to halt operations. Swimwear brands Vix, based in where fi res were roaring. San Diego, and Salinas, owned by Solana Beach, Calif.- “I am staying put,’’ Samford said. “I have a lot based Marpessa Inc., although not located in evacua- of neighbors, and everyone is staying home. I went tion zones, were shut down because of staff shortages to the mall [Horton Plaza] in the Gaslamp District, and safety issues. The staff was thin at San Diego-based and a lot of the stores had closed.” Charlotte Russe, where chief executive offi cer Mark Sun Diego, a 10-door surf chain based in Hoffman and marketing director Karin Toranto had Carlsbad, closed four of its stores between San not made it to work, an employee said. Diego and Temecula, about 60 miles north. Lindy Williams, marketing manager of Reef ’s David Cianelli, general manager of the Chula Vista women’s business, said her 15-member department Center, about 10 miles south of San Diego, said three of PHOTO BY AP PHOTO/CHRIS CARLSON PHOTO BY had been evacuated from their homes, adding that she the shopping center’s four anchor stores were open, was not sure when the offi ce would open. “The order but Mervyns was closed because of staffi ng short- has been to be safe,” she said. “It’s so nerve-racking. It’s hard to think about work.” ages. “It just seems like getting people to come into work has been a challenge,” he said. The Westfi eld Group, owner of seven shopping centers in San Diego County, closed “Everyone has staff people who can’t get out of their homes. People have put the economics three malls: Westfi eld North County, Westfi eld Parkway in El Cajon and Westfi eld and business issues aside for right now. It has been so hectic with life safety concerns.” Plaza Camino Real. General Growth Properties closed its , Tim Swart, co-founder of surf retailer Univ in Encinitas, has been closed since but kept open . Monday. He worried about the smoke damage to his beach shack-like store. “Any little “The entire Westfi eld family has been touched by this tragedy,” Ken Wong, Westfi eld draft is going to bring smoke in,” he said. “All the product might be pretty smoked and Group’s president of U.S. operations, said in a statement. “We are part of this commu- there is nothing we can do.” nity and will do whatever we can to help. We are currently working with local law en- Ernesto Navarez, union organizer for the Los Angeles section of the Industrial forcement, public safety and emergency service organizations to serve as a resource Workers of the World, said the truck drivers who live in the Inland Empire region — providing staging areas for fi rst responders at several of our centers.” east of Los Angeles stayed at home because parts of Interstate 15, a major highway Simon Property Group’s three malls in the San Diego area remained open, al- that links San Diego, Los Angeles and Las Vegas, were closed because of the fi res. In though the Neiman Marcus store at Fashion Valley has been closed since Monday. addition, the strong winds that are fanning the fl ames are also scaring truck drivers A spokesman said Simon executives, based in Indianapolis, met Tuesday to discuss who want to head west from Las Vegas or Phoenix. “The truck drivers are stuck,” he the company’s response to the fi res. “We are constantly monitoring the situation and said. “They are not driving down the 15.” it is…very fl uid,” he said. “The safety of our customers and our tenants and their em- In Malibu, where a fi re was 15 percent contained and 4,400 acres had been charred, ployees is, as always, our paramount concern.” Mark Geller, operating offi cer of jewelry retailer and wholesaler Laura M., said the The economic fallout was diffi cult to calculate because of the scope, speed and company’s store in the Malibu Country Mart was closed. However, he said every time unpredictable manner with which the fi res spread. The Santa Ana winds, lack of rain there is a fi re, the jewelry store bounces back. “The recovery is relatively quick,” he and high temperatures are expected to continue until Thursday, forecasters said. The said. “These people are so used to crises. They want to get back to their lives as soon death toll increased to six. as possible. We have never failed to have an uptick in sales.” The wildfi res “will have dramatic economic impact,” Schwarzenegger said on Even as fi res raged, San Diego’s beach communities were experiencing a bit of relief CNBC. “It will be probably in the hundreds of millions of dollars. But this area [San as residents sought the ocean instead of being cooped up at home. A few retailers re- Diego] has been very resilient.” ported brisk sales from evacuees who fl ed their homes in fi re-prone neighborhoods. James Diffl ey, managing director at Global Insight Inc., an economic and fi nancial Izzy Tihanyi, co-owner of Surf Diva, in La Jolla, Calif., said she closed the women’s analyst and forecasting company based in Waltham, Mass., estimated that San Diego and men’s surf shop on Monday to ensure her employees were safe. After reopen- contributes almost 10 percent, or about $100 billion, to the annual value of all prod- ing on Tuesday, she’s seen a jump in business from evacuees who fl ed with just the ucts and services generated in California. Using that estimate, the loss in San Diego clothes on their backs and needed to stock up on T-shirts, comfortable shoes, shorts, totals more than $274 million a day. hats and other apparel to wear in the 80-degree heat. Diffl ey added that rebuilding after the fi res could give a boost to San Diego’s hous- “It’s kind of eerie down here,” Tihanyi said. “People still want to go to the beach ing market, which has contracted. “Rebuilding perversely spurs the economy,” he said. and go surf or go to the boutique and buy clothes.” “People who don’t spend today because they are obviously displaced will shop later.” There wasn’t a big crowd at Raw Clothing in Pacifi c Beach, but owner Mark Nussbaum Jack Kyser, chief economist and senior vice president of the Los Angeles Economic agreed that the seaside enclaves have been an appealing destination for many. “People Development Corp., said, “It’s pretty dire down in San Diego due to the magnitude of have tended to come to the beach because it is one of the areas that are safe,” he said. fi res. Obviously, residents are not going to go shopping. In terms of apparel, business — With contributions from Marcy Medina WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 13 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Design Assistant Los Angeles Luxury Goods Co. Production Assistant seeks individual w/2-4 years expe- Los Angeles Luxury Goods Co. SENIOR IMPORT COORDINATOR rience with Design and/or Mfg. seeks a Production Assistant with background. Candidate should have 2-3 years experience. Must be • Monitor production procedures with oversees factories knowledge of garment & fabric • Price negotiation construction (knits, wovens, leather), organized, detail oriented, possess • Coordinate with design and tech team to ensure fits/ design notions, and trims, as well as, strong follow up skills, and be and quality are followed sourcing in & out of the country. comfortable working in a fast • Work with logistic / accounting for shipping / LD / payment Must be an organized, detail oriented paced environment. Duties will details team player with great follow-up include PO creation and manage- • Monitor production timeline to ensure on time delivery skills, and be able to multi-task in ment, creating / updating spread- a fast paced environment. Respon- sheets, sample management and REQUIREMENTS: sibilities include daily communica- corresponding with vendors and •5+ years experience in knits / sweaters tion with vendors and members of team members. Strong computer •Knowledge of WEBPDM the team, putting together pack- skills with emphasis on all •Bilingual (mandarin, Cantonese) preferred ages, swatches and assisting the Microsoft office applications. •Fashion school background design team in all phases of devel- Please use job code PA1 in the •Worked at oversees factories opment. Proficient knowledge of subject header when E-mailing •Experience with Junior Fashion all Microsoft Office applications. your resume and cover letter to: •Good fashion sense Please use job code DA1 in the subject header when E-mailing [email protected] Please fax or email resumes to: [email protected] your resume and cover letter to: [email protected] WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

OF THE TOP JOB WEEK LUXURY ACCESSORIES BRAND VP of Sales & Marketing APPLY NOW ON FASHIONCAREERS.COM NY, LA or Miami

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

PATTERNS & SAMPLES SMALL PRODUCTION Fast - Accurate - Reliable Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Call: 212-217-9750 ACCOUNTING ASST No Lot Too Big or Too Small. SEWING CONTRACTOR SWEATERS NEEDED Call CLOTHES-OUT: Patterns, Samples, Cut, Sew, Private Label/Production (937) 898-2975 Leading Global Intimate Apparel and Distribution Made in the USA/Full Fashioned Company located in SoHo, offers an Call John @ 212-563-1157 and C&S. For the Better market Findings NY, Inc.,acontemporary, exciting career opportunity for a moti- E-mail: [email protected] 1-888-338-0002 / [email protected] multi-line showroom, seeks to fill vated, team player. Quick Books/ the following positions: Accounting knowledge helpful. Organizational/ analytical skills are key. Operations Mgr. to run all adminis- Fax resume to (212) 219-9293, along with salary request. JOBBER/EXPORTER trative aspects of showroom. Sales We buy better goods. All categories, including fabrics. Immediate $$. analysis, projections, etc. Excel & Please call 212-279-1902 Investing Partner Wanted MS Office proficient. Min. 3 years CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING Due Maternity #1 ranked online maternity industry exp. U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 website seeks strategic investor. www.sanodesignservices.com 415-310-1637 / Al@DueMaternity .com Sales Asst. to help showroom with Patterns/Samples/Production administrative tasks & sales. Must Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening be organized, able to multi-task & Accts. Payable/Bookkeeper Gowns custom made & wholesale. real estate suppliers prioritize. Showroom exp. a +. E-mail Est’d. Jewelry Import Co. seeks energetic Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 & computer literate A/P Bookkeeper to resumes to: [email protected] handle all phases, including bank recon- opportunities ciliation. Spanish speaking a plus. Please Patterns/Samples/Production E-mail resume to: [email protected] 1407 BROADWAY Full Service, Fine Fast Work. travel SHOWROOMS/OFFICES Any Styles. careers TREBOR MGMT Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 4 Positions Available! PATTERNS, SAMPLES, 26,630 WWD readers are located in the HIG-END DESIGNER CO. IS SEEKING: Western region of the United States. •Women¹s PATTERNMAKER (F/T) Admin Since 1967 PRODUCTIONS •Men¹s PATTERNMAKER (F/T) All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. •Women & Men¹s PATTERNMAKER W-I-N-S-T-O-N Call Sherry 212-719-0622. for production (FREELANCER) 5 - 10 years experience in high-end APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN * SALES * MERCH PLUS SIZE SHOWROOM WANTED PATTERNS, SAMPLES, designer company •PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: Detailed ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Exciting contemporary Plus line seeks PRODUCTIONS (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 Sales/Showroom w/upscale Dept. Store Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. & organized, able to multi-task, Full service shop to the trade. knowledge of garment construction. & boutique relationships. Call or E-mail: Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Source: 03/06 ABC; WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. (917)742-6357 / [email protected] Please Fax resume to: (212) 966-4682 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007

Magaschoni Apparel Group Freelance & Perm Jobs Available GLOBAL WISE DEVELOPMENT A global manufacturer of fashion Immediately! FIDM accessories, legwear, TAYLOR HODSON DESIGNER footwear, rainwear, sleepwear, FIDM is a private accredited college with four (4) locations in California home fashions has career (Los Angeles, Orange County, and San Diego) with a total Seeking talented Designer to help opportunities available! Freelance CAD Designers enrollment of over 5,000 full-time students. launch new contemporary women’s Freelance Designers label. Must have 5+ years exp with Sales Execs We serve students who seek careers in Fashion, Interior Design, knits and sweaters, strong design Product Design Tech Designers- (freelance & perm opps) Entertainment and Visual Arts. ability and technical construction Graphic Artists- (freelance) Part-Time Faculty positions are available in: knowledge. Production Production Assistants (freelance) Apparel Manufacturing Management • Beauty Industry Merchandising & Assistants Merchandising Assistants Marketing • Digital Media • Fashion Design • Film & TV Costume Design • PRIVATE LABEL Visual Merchandiser (freelance to perm) Footwear Design • Jewelry Design • Graphic Design • International Send resumes ASAP!!! Manufacturing/Product Development • Merchandise Marketing • Merchandise SALES EXECUTIVE Email resume with salary req. to: Product Development • Textile Design • Textile Science • Theatre Seeking energetic, exp’d individual [email protected] Email: [email protected] Costume • Visual Communications w/ good existing customer relation- Art History • English • History • Mathematics • Sciences• Studio Art ships who can grow multi-category private label women’s and men’s Send letter of application, resume, three current letters of reference fashion business. and transcripts of all college work to: Barbara Bundy, Vice President, Education Fax (after 7pm) or email resumes to: The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) 212-869-3179 or 919 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, California 90015 [email protected] For information about the college visit our website at: SUBJECT MUST REFERENCE POSITION www.fidm.edu EEO Employer DESIGNER/DRESS ECI New York ALLOCATOR Design A better updated manufacturer of Major Dress manufacturer seeks hard Women’s Branded & Private Label working, detail oriented, multi-tasking ASSISTANT DESIGNER Leading Junior knit & sweater importer, Sportswear seeks a dress designer person w / min 3 years exp. Must coor- with at least five years experience as a dinate all aspects of style / make / color seeking organized, detailed person with 2-3 yrs exp. Responsibilites will designer. Must have knowledge of flat / size orders, purchases and inventory. pattern and draping and must have Must know Allocation using AIMS include daily communication with fac- tories overseas, fittings, & assisting exp running a sample room. This is an system software and be able to handle established well known Brand with mass merchandisers chargebacks. designer in all phases of development. Construction knowledge & ability to tremendous room for growth. Candidate Microsoft and Excel a must. Career needs to be very organized. Salary oppty for motivated, team player. create flat sketches in illustrator a must. Please email:[email protected] commensurate with experience. ECI Please email your resume to: is a great home for individuals that [email protected] love fashion and have a strong desire to succeed. Fax 212-382-0237 DESIGN ASSISTANT Email resume:[email protected] Fast paced day time dress Co seeking an design asst who is organized, detail oriented and hard working. Duties will Assistant Designer incl handling tech pacs, following up DIRECTOR of LICENSING GRAPHIC DESIGNER Leading Jr. Denim Co seeks a creative with vendors, and corresponding with CBS Consumer Products LC/Import Coordinator person w/knowledge of Illustrator. Great catalog clients. Candidate must have 1-2 DESIGNER Major apparel co seeks graphic artist Major Apparel co. seeks individual with learning exp. [email protected] years catalog experience, excellent oral Properties Include: Star Trek, America’s for junior girls line "Pastry" from the knowledge of entire process of LC Major apparel company seeks Designer Next Top Model, and Kid nation hit TV show "Run’s House". Responsi- and written communication skills; with minimum 3 years experience for and Production Import. Must be detail Proficiency in MS-Office a must! Send Responsibilities: Licensing strategies & bilities include researching trends oriented and possess excellent computer Girls 7-16 knit/woven tops and sweaters. technique and direction, designing resumes and salary history to : Must have knowledge of garment and plans for apparel, accessories, domestics, skills. Assistant Sales & [email protected] HBA, etc. Research, negotiation, product theme graphics as directed by designer , fabric construction. Must have excellent designing trims, developing artwork PLEASE EMAIL RESUMES TO: computer skills with Illustrator required. development and approval, analysis of [email protected] Merchandising sales info. and tech packs. Children’s Clothing Co. looking for Photoshop knowledge a plus. PLEASE E-MAIL RESUMES TO: Sales and Merchandising Asst. to work PLEASE EMAIL RESUMES TO: Experience: Relevant exp. in licensing, [email protected] with Design and Sales Depts. Follow DESIGN [email protected] manufacturing, and/or retail. Specific up samples, details to Orient, ability to category & entertainment exp. helpful. juggle numerous tasks. Must have ba- ASSOCIATE CAD E-mail resume/cover letter: [email protected] sic computer skills. Knowledge of in- DESIGNER Designer dustry a plus. Phila. location. Fast paced Missy Apparel Company Please e-mail resume to seeking a Cad Designer w/good color [email protected] sense and computer skills to assist the Oxford DRAPER Mens Designers $40-100K design director in creating private label Graphic Designer Graphic Designers $40-100K Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks an exp’d. The Northwest Co., a leading producer H.R. Manager $80-100K apparel for retailers. Candidate must Production Manager Draper. Must be able to cut and drape. have a strong background in adapting of decorative Home Fashions is seeking Planners/Buyers $50-120K Ass’t Tech. Designer/ excellent working conditions, medical a talented Graphic Designer to join our P.R. Acct Exec (agency) $40-115K textiles and create designs based on benefits, 401K. Fax resumes: 212-575-5505 Pattern Grader designer or customer suggestions. Ability Oxford Collections (a member of Art Department. Responsibilities will Lunaire, a leader in fuller-bust bras, to use Illustrator and Photoshop a must. Li & Fung Group) is a leading include creating decorative Pillow & Freelance and Fulltime positions seeks creative talent w passion for Knowledge of Euphoria &Bluecherry a Throw designs for both Sports & Enter- available!!! bras & enjoys working w patterns. plus but not required. clothing designer and manufac- tainment licensed properties. Additional responsibilities include putting designs Please email resumes to: Fax resume to 212-725-0089 E-mail resumes w/salary to turer. We seek a motivated, pro- DRAPER [email protected] email [email protected] Fast-paced Dress Co. seeks an exp’d. into repeat, preparing artwork for pro- [email protected] active Production Manager with duction and making design revisions. for freelance opportunities: (min. 5 yrs.) Draper for day & social lines. [email protected] a minimum 3 years experience. Fax: 212-354-4673 Candidate should be able to design in various styles and have strong computer www.fourthfloorfashion.com skills using Adobe CS3. Textile, Licensing, Beth Bowley Responsibilities include super- illustration or packaging experience is a Design Associate - Contemporary vising production team and en- strong plus. E-mail resume & samples OFFICE ASSISTANT Women’s Line. Great working environ- Design - Associate Designer to: [email protected] ment. Concept through sample suring all plus size & maternity (no phone calls or recruiters please) Office assistant needed to follow up with order factoring, customer service, development. Must be neat/organized, ALICE & TRIXIE line products designed/produced have excellent presentation, communi- Fast growing contemporary women’s FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES data entry, and filing. Must be detailed to clients’ needs. Additional re- oriented w/ excellent communication cation and sketching skills. Computer designer is seeking a dynamic candi- Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 skills: Photoshop, Excel. 3-4 years date with min 3 yrs exp. in the same skills. Computer literate and able to sponsibilities include maintain- Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 * JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * multi-task a must. experience. Health Ins, 401K. E-mail market. Must have extensive fabric Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 resume: [email protected] and trim sourcing exp., fluency in ing and cultivating client & ven- *Allocator - Wal-Mart - AS400 exp Please Fax or Email resume w/ salary to : photoshop, be skilled in tech packs. dor relations, managing budgets, [email protected] *Artist Girls- Boys-Jrs. - Mens- $HI F 212- 575-1333 E: [email protected] We are looking for a creative team www.raskinexecsearch.com *Artist Girl I-14 Disney $HI player with a positive attitude to grow overseeing staff of technical de- *Artist yg mens contemporary streetwear Bookkeeper with us. Please email resume to: signers & production managers. *Designer-Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr. [email protected] *Designer Assistant-tech packs-approvals 3 yrs exp AP, AR, payroll. Excellent com- Experience with Target a plus. *Designer Assistant yg mens denim OFFICE MGR/SALES munication, organizational and computer *Designer boy/girl todlr character license skills. Send resume and salary to: We offer an attractive benefits *Designer boy or yg men sportswear ASST NEEDED Box#M 1028 GRAPHIC DESIGER/ *Designer contemporary missy c/s knits Leading Global Intimate Apparel c/o Fairchild Classified package & a great work *Production MGR-Assist-Coordinators-$HI Company located in SoHo, offers an 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl DESIGNER- Assistant environment. WEB DESIGNER *Production Coords or Asst-Biling Chinese exciting career opportunity for a New York, NY 10017 Junior/Junior Plus Co. seeks creative, Great opportunity for an individual exp’d. *Product Coordinator Lab Dips-Import motivated, team player. 5+ years organized individual w/min. 2 yrs. exp. in Graphic Arts & Web Design. Must have *Sales Bridge s/w specialty & dept stores Intimate Apparel experience suggested. Chargeback Mgr to $60K. Must have to assist with busy design dept. Must Please email resumes to: computer graphic background and be *Technical Designers & Assistants $HI Reception/office mgmt/sales experience current exp in chrgbcks dealing w/ major have exp using Adobe, Photoshop, and [email protected] proficient in Adobe Illustrator, Adobe *Technical Designer Jr or Missy c/s Knits are a must. stores like Sears or JCPenney. Wood- Illustrator. Please e-mail your resume to: Photoshop, and Web Design/HTML. Please *Trim Coordinator -plastic bags-hangers Fax resume to:(212) 219-9293, along bridge, NJ loc. [email protected] [email protected] EOE E-mail resume to: [email protected] Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 with salary request. WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2007 15

SAMPLEMAKER Growing women’s couture co. seeks highly skilled and exp’d individual. Stable position. Emphasis on evening. Recognized N.Y.C. Blouse Co is Please call 212-869-2296 or seeking a highly dedicated, experi- fax your resume to 212-869-2236. enced Sales Professional who has strong following with Macy’s, Sample Maker JCP, and other specialty stores. High end contemporary mgf seeking Sales Account Manager - Generous salary plus commission. experienced sample makers proficient Please respond to: [email protected] with soft silk and cut and sew fabrics as well as tailored pieces. US Department Store Division Email resume to: [email protected] The priority of this position is to increase LeSportsac’s share of Nat’l. Sales Manager the market in U.S. Department Stores. Requires a dynamic ...for Velvet, high-volume t-shirt SEAMSTRESS seller with strong people, presentation, analytical and expense line, to expand sales & coordinate Individual sewing contractors wanted control skills. Annual Sales Volume $3,000,000. for a high end fashion designer between NY/LA offices. Oversee factory. Experience a must. Piece work. all domestic Velvet sales. Dept. Phone: 212-604-9152 The basic job requirements include but are not limited to: Email: [email protected] Store exp. a must. Min. 5 years • In depth understanding of Sales to Stock Plans, including industry exp. E-mail resumes to: weeks of supply and turn [email protected] • In depth experience with Gross Margin analysis and resolution Sales Support • Fashion assortment planning Major apparel co. seeking Sales Support/ Sourcing- Vice President • Basic model assortment planning and maintenance. Account Manager. Several years of • Fashion awareness, public speaking skills for group Wal-mart experience a must. Respon- The CATO Corporation, a leading spe- sibilities include supplier quotes, Retail cialty retailer of value-priced women’s presentations Link queries, order maintenance, fashion apparel w/over 1,300 stores, is • Negotiation skills delivery and inventory follow up. Indi- seeking an experienced VP, Sourcing vidual will also work w/ production on for the Corporate Office in Charlotte, NC. • Ability and flexibility to travel approximately 15% of the year CTL follow up, time & action calendars. PLEASE E-MAIL RESUMES TO: This position is responsible for directing • Experience at wholesale or retail with 2 of the following [email protected] the procurement of merchandise that corporations: Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, Dillards, Nordstrom meets the Company’s requirement for style, quality, price, & consistent on-time • Excel, Word and Internet literate including spreadsheet delivery. Manage production processes creation from costing through delivery on all products directly imported. Qualified Duties include but not limited to: SALES-This mfr hires from any mfr/ 3+ candidates must have 8-10 years direct yrs exp selling Infant hanging gds to import & product development exp in • Creation and maintenance of 6 month Stock/Sales Plans mod price large stores/A1 co. $Open women’s apparel. Bachelor’s degree in lo- • Gross Margin monthly proof and reconciliation Call Les Richards at (212) 221-0870 gistics, finance, business administration or equivalent pref. Overseas travel req’d. • Branch Store analysis For consideration, please submit resume • Order writing and Assortment Planning and salary history to: • Daily Order processing The Cato Corporation, PO Box 34216, Charlotte, NC 28234 • SKU assortment forecasting Sr. VP of SALES Fax to: (704) 551-7246 • Create and maintain P.O logs Mfr. with NY Showroom seeks a dynamic Email to: [email protected] & results-driven Sr. VP of Sales specializ- EOE/Drug Testing • Communicate with field merchandisers ing in Children’s Wear; or Underwear, • Communicate with in store selling specialists or Sportswear. Qualified candidate must have strong relationships with Dept. & • Communicate daily with account buyers, planners, Chain Stores. E-mail resume & expected salary to: kaiapparel@ gmail.com SWEATERS assistance *TD-Pvt Label, Fully Fashion $80-125K • Travel to inspect retail branch locations *TD-Cut & Sew Knit $80K The ideal candidate: *TD-Better Contemporary $55-70K *Prod’n Coord-Wmns Bet Japan Mkt $70K • Should have the ability to represent the "New Face of [email protected] 212-947-3400 VP of Sales & LeSportsac" and LeSportsac’s corporate culture within the Marketing professional arena. Young Luxury Accessories Brand is Operations Coordinator PRODUCTION MANAGER • Possesses retail buying experience (preferred but looking for a VP of Sales & Marketing. High end contemp. company seeks an Plan/direct production. Coordinate TECH/CAD DESIGNER To $50K not required) Ideal candidate must have relevant ex- Operations Coordinator. Must have 3-5 production schedule/activities with BOYS/MENS perience in accessories and a passion years exp. in fashion, excellent computer procurement, maintenance, and quali- OUTERWEAR/ACTIVEWEAR • Driver’s license for selling with an entrepreneurial ap- skills, knowlege of EDI and compliance. ty control activities to obtain optimum * MUST possess strong CAD skills proach to the market, self-motivated Must be proficient in A/R, domestic & production and utilization of human * Must understand garment construction Bonus Eligible, Great Benefits, 401K as well as able to develop new business int’l shipping. Competitive salary, benefits resources, machines, and equipment. * PL Mod Mass market exp req’d Strong relationships with major de- and bonus. Please send cover letter Review/analyze production, quality * Minimum of 2 years experience [email protected] partment and specialty stores is neces- and resume to: control, maintenance, and operational Pls send resume with salary req sary. The sales person can be based [email protected] reports to determine causes of noncon- & technical sketches to: EOE out of NY, LA or Miami. Great oppor- formity with product specifications, E-Mail [email protected] tunity for someone looking to get in- PATTERNMAKER and operating or production problems. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS volved with an exciting new luxury Daytime dress manufacturer seeks Negotiate/communicate on system, brand. Please submit your resume and patternmaker for private label. Min 5 objectives, expectation and processes. salary requirements to: years experience. Fax to : 212-382-3623 Rqmnts: B.S. Degree in Industrial [email protected] Engineering& 5 yrs exp in job. 40 hrs wk; PATTERNMAKER Job site: NY, NY . Send resume w/ this ad Technical Designer Must know Lectra to: Little Escargot, LLC Attn: Ria Girls manufacturing company seeks Fax: 718-392-2813 Browne, CEO 247 W. 38th St. 16th Fl experienced person for Walmart and E-mail: [email protected] NY, NY 10018 other retailers. Candidate must be detail oriented and a team player that has Authentic American lifestyle brand is seeking experienced strong knowledge in processing fit PATTERN MAKERS evaluations, construction and be able candidates to join our New York showroom team. 1st Prod’n Runway Couture Dsgnr $150-200K Product Renderer to work with customers as well as Cstm Work w/ Socialites & Movie Stars overseas factories. 1st Prod’n Couture -Dress $100-150K Gift item mfr. seeks product renderer. Please send resume and salary req. to MEN’S & WOMEN’S 1st Prod’n Dsgnr Mkt Jacket/Dress $100-125K Great opportunity for qualified candidate [email protected]. 1st Prod’n-Swimwear/Lingerie $75K E-mail resume: [email protected] SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES/SALES MANAGERS [email protected] 212-947-3400 Come Join the Exciting World of Patternmakers (2) Candidates should be enthusiastic, highly motivated & have HANDBAGS! MEN’S & WOMEN’S. COUTURE TECHNICAL DESIGNER strong communication skills. Must have a minimum of 5 10-15 YEARS EXP. $75-$100K RETAIL PLANNER/ Major better womens sportswear mfr MAXX NEW YORK has a spot for you! Call Laurie 212-947-3399 ANALYST seeks seasoned TD w/ min 5 yrs exp in years experience in the better sportswear industry & established Seeking an energetic individual to join or e-mail [email protected] establishing fit, spec & construction contacts in the better specialty/ department store arena. our Specialty Store Sales Team! Can- KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS TUMI Inc. has an opportunity available guidelines, working w/ retail clients & didate must have hands-on experience for a Retail Planner at our corporate overseas factories, managing all tech with independent regional Specialty headquarters in South Plainfield, NJ. issues & fit approvals. Must have pri- Stores, and be able to manage exciting Patternmaker-Seamstress/Tailor This individual will be responsible for vate label exp, excellent communi- www.gant.com accounts as well as open new accounts. Work for original dress designer in all aspects of wholesale analysis related cation & computer skills. Knldge of Handbag experience a must. Great com- Short Hills , NJ. Call or E-mail: to the performance of the sales division. pattern making a plus. Pls email resume munication / computer skills (AS400), 973-467-7800 / [email protected] The ideal candidate will have a minimum & salary history to: [email protected] Send your resume in confidence & salary history and retail math knowledge also required. of 5 years of planning & analytical as a Word attachment to: [email protected] Fax resumes to Lisa at: 212-683-3817 PRESIDENT work experience in the wholesale and APPAREL COMPANY retail industry. Experience with SAP is Very successful NYC multi div co preferred. Please e-mail resumes to: seeks a dynamic candidate to head one TECHNICAL DESIGNERS [email protected] or fax to (908) *Sr TD Mgr Better Mkt/Jeans $125-150K of their top men’s/ladies divisions. Req: 756-8590. EOE a strong track record as a President of an *Sr TD-Suits/Jackets Better Mkt $80-90K *TD-Wovens $55-75K Lemon Grass/ SALES EXECUTIVE apparel co w/leadership skills in mar- Top prestige brand handbag co. seeks keting, sales, production, and licensing, TUMI, INC. *Spec Techs $38-52K *TD’s Freelance Wovens/Knits $30-50/hr Spex Clothing Co talented sales pro with a min. 3 yrs exp. w/analytical skills, etc. Apparel selling in bridge & designer market to work in to specialty, dept. and off price stores. [email protected] 212-947-3400 Is looking for a seasoned Juniors seller to join our 52 weekends/Art & Soul NY showroom. Dynamic team-oriented Excellent Salary plus bonus D.O.E., environment. Generous base plus com- E-mail resume confidentially to : Sales Assistant/Associate sales team. Sweater and Woven experience as asset. Please e-mail mission. Email resume in confidence to: [email protected] A leading license distributor is seeking [email protected] Fax: 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 an enthusiastic, urgency-minded person resume to [email protected] who is organized, detail oriented, and a Production Manager strong communicator. Duties include: Fast paced licensed gift and room •Following & tracking of orders, WHERE FASHION MEETS ITS FINEST SALES EXECUTIVE décor company looking for detail pricing, and shipping status • Tech Design - Sweaters Major apparel company seeking Off oriented production manager. Respon- •Interaction with buyers to insure Price Sales Executive for premium sibilities include tracking orders and timely receipt of purchase orders • Account Execs - Contemp • Store Mgrs - Luxury contemporary market. Must have production samples, daily communica- •Liaison w/design & production teams 5 - 10 years experience with establish- SALESPERSON tion with factories, design, sales and •Analyze data located on web sites of • Designers - Contemp Junior/Missy Vertical woven company • Buyers - Luxury ed contacts and strong relationships shipping. Must have 3-5 years experi- Mass Market Retailers with major OP Retailers and specialty needs motivated salesperson with ence. Hard goods knowledge a big •Must be proficient in Word & Excel • Controller minimum 4/5 years experience. Must • Exec. Assts. stores. NY based. Salary commensu- Specialty Store Sales Rep plus. Must be fluent in Chinese. We offer a competitive starting salary rate with experience. Send resume and have established contacts, 4 day Seeking Sales Pros for better Knitwear Send resume in confidence to: coupled with a comprehensive employee PLEASE put job title in subject line. cover letter in confidence to: week, salary plus commission. Fax Line specializing in Cashmere. E-mail: [email protected] benefits package. Fax/E-mail resumes to: E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] resume in confidence to: 212-395-9765 [email protected] 212-244-0773/[email protected] for information: 212 822 3191