The route (around 100 kms long) is varied, gusto' corner in Dettagli d'Arredo (23, via Manzini that these days are always harder to find, you can small detour to LENOLA, on an old trade-route The Routes for Good Taste passing through the lively tourist centres of the Tel: 0771 462524; closed Sundays). There is a taste the excellent wines of the up and coming cel- linking the Liri Valley to the plains of Fondi, to visit southern Lazio coast, pausing on the captiva- wide selection of restaurants: S. Agostino (SS. lar Terra delle Ginestre (64, via del Fornello the Shrine of the Madonna of the Hills, or to taste ting islands of Ponza and Ventotene and, cros- Flacca, km 20,643 Tel: 0771 743071; closed Tel: 0771 700297), for example the whites the goat dishes, fettucine made with eggs, la pétte- sing from the fertile plains of Fondi _ Monti Thursdays), La Siesta (SS Flacca, km 20,650 Tel: Promessa (liqueur-based), Invito, Ginestra, la with beans, or game and olive oil. Fondi reaches A visit to one of the S.Biagio and Girigliano, moving inland to the 0771 743052; closed Wednesdays), Albergo Lentisco and the reds Ricordi and Il Generale. out onto the fertile plain of Fondi-Monte S. Biagio, typical hill towns. From the deep blue sea of Aeneas' Landing (SS Flacca, km 23,600 Tel: The Routes for Good Taste Back on the Appia you reach, reluctantly perhaps, bounded by the Ausoni and Aurunci mountains farms, to taste or to the Bay of Gaeta to the intense 0771 741713), Alla Corte dei the end of the first stage of the journey down to and by the Tyrrhenian coast, where you will find green of the Ausoni and Aurunci Borboni (9, via Docibile Tel: 0771 Formia. You should now look for signs to ITRI, the lake of Fondi. Created according to the legend buy, or a good mountains, it's one beautiful 460050; closed Wednesdays), sitting up on the first hill inland, and looking out of Hercules, this is a bubbling coastal centre pac- meal in one of the view after another; economic Antico Vico (2/4 vico 2 del Cavallo over a small strip of countryside that stretches till ked with archaeological sites and monuments and realities change, as do history Tel: 0771 465116; closed The Coast, the Islands, the Ausoni it touches the sea. The town is hidden in the home to one of the most important fruit and vege- many restaurants and legend, customs and costu- Wednesdays), La Cantinella greens of the woods - table markets in Europe (M.O.F.). Besides citrus mes; and yet, wherever you may (16/18 via del Duomo Tel: 0771 and Aurunci Mountains oak and beech alterna- fruits and other orchard produce, you will find well able to satisfy be, you'll sample the delights of 450005; closed Mondays), Appia Tel: 0771 622056; closed Mondays). ting with the ancient buffalo cheese (mozzarella) and an outstanding the most refined an authentic and diverse cuisine Masaniello (6, Piazza SCAURI is another worthwhile stop, to taste and groves where the extra-virgin olive oil obtainable at the Frantoio combining the simple recipes Commestibili Tel: 0771 462296; buy cold meats, cured pork and local sausages at famous black olive, also Oleario Giuglietta Marco (via S. Magno km 1,2 tastes: these are our and seasonings of the hills with closed Mondays) and Trippa Norcineria Auriemma (1135, via Appia associated with Gaeta, is Tel: 0771 502590). To taste the local delicacies, THE PROVINCE those of the sea. There are many Mediterraneo (42, via Bausan Tel: 0771 613266; closed Mondays). Some 8 kms you are recommended to call in at Vicolo di recommendations opportunities to visit farms, to Tel: 0771 461212). FORMIA can Mario (loc. Gianola; via Porticciolo Romano Tel: from Minturno, further inland and almost at the 'Mblo (11, Corso Appio Claudio Tel: 0771 OF LATINA taste and buy products, in a be reached quickly by carrying on 0771 723113; closed Tuesdays), Grande boundaries of the Campagnia, is CASTELFORTE, 502385; closed Tuesdays), Il Selciato (7, via E. to Italian or over- region that has come of age. along the SS.213 Flacca. The town’s Albergo Miramare (SS.7 Appia 44 Tel: 0771 the last remaining towns- Amante Tel: seas visitors to the Moving southwards down the coast, origins, buried in myth, are tied to 320047), Il Gatto e La Volpe (33, via A. Tosti hip in the Aurunci region 0771 500556; let’s begin at SPERLONGA, on the the legend of Troy and the wande- Tel: 0771 21354; closed Wednesdays), Chinappi to have pre-Roman origins closed province of Latina. SS 123 Flacca. This is a typical sea- dal 1957 (8, via Anfiteatro Tel: 0771-790002; and whose urban centre Mondays), side township, one of the most pic- closed Thursdays), Da Italo (Via Unità d'Italia has fully conserved a and Osteria Choose between a turesque in the entire province, characteristically Ovest, km 2 Tel: 0771 771264; closed Tuesdays), demonstrably mediaeval Brenta (8, via Mediterranean and, in days gone by, a favourite Da Veneziano (83, via A. Tosti Tel: 0771 771818; Restaurants character. It sits on a little Brenta Tel: swim in the clear resort of the Romans. Visit the Grotta di Tiberio closed Mondays) and Borgo Antico (loc. hill dominating the plain of 0771 504317; and, nearby, the National Archaeological Museum. Castellonorato; p.tta Monte Tripoli Tel: 0771 Farms the river Garigliano, with closed waters of the cen- TINERARIES In the restaurant Laocoonte da Rocco (4, via 737146; closed Tuesdays). Opposite Formia and the thermal baths of Suio tral Mediterranean, Cristoforo Colombo Tel: 0771 548122; closed Gaeta, the island contours of PONZA and VEN- on its banks. To appreciate TO THEI Mondays) you can enjoy typical seafood and old the specialities of this area, an excursion or Bourbon recipes. Carrying on southwards for thir- teen kilometres, you will reach the old town of cultural tour, a OOD ASTES GAETA, former maritime republic and the last of the Bourbon strongholds. Today, the town has two grown. To taste these, relaxing walk in TT distinct parts: the old quarter, with the lovely and their exquisite GG it repays stopping the parks or mediaeval quarter of S. Erasmo; and the new, rings of Ulysses on his journey home. Situated in at Ristorante La oil, and to try the OF LAND AND SEA basking in the colourful bay of the same name, the heart of the Bay of Gaeta, Formia has an envia- Scafa (208, via green olives, you healthy sporting from which the promontory of M. Orlando and the ble climate, one that made it an important resort delle Terme should go to the Regional Park, the Shrine of the Most Holy Trinity dating from Roman times, of which there are Tel: 0771 Unione activity, events and and the 'Montagna Spaccata' (split mountain) many traces. The regional Park of Giànola-Monte 672242; Agricoltori stand out together. Among the gastronomic specia- di Scauri and the Blue Oasis begin east of the closedTuesdays). Itrani (40, festivals of all lities are the fish dishes and the celebrated tiella, populated area. Here the produce is very varied. TOTENE and of Close enough to via Padovana Tel: 0771 727928; closed Mondays). At the end o f the journey, coming kinds followed by a a country pizza stuffed with flavouring of different For dairy items we recommend Lo Spicchio the smaller islands would like time off to relax and sample an uncom- Castelforte as to Sundays). Leaving Itri, heading inland on the back up the Via Appia going north, is kinds. Fish, straight out of the sea, may be found (SS.7 Appia L. Napoli, km 148,400 Tel: 0771 of Palmarola, plicated, authentic cuisine, like Il Giardino (46, virtually share a SS.82, you'll come to CAMPODIMELE, a small MONTE SAN BIAGIO, an old township which night out in one of at the Gaeta Itticoltura (11, via Firenze, Tel: 738005, with points of sale also at Itri, Gaeta and Zannone, Gavi and via Olivi Tel: 0771 85090), it offers fish dishes ser- single town cen- mediaeval town perched on a steep hill, hemmed once marked the boundary between the Papal 0771 464503; closed Sundays) while the tiella and Rome) and its buffalo milk-product range. For S. Stefano loom out nating tastes. This cuisine can be enjoyed at the ved with the typical local lentils. Back on the tre, is SS. in by its girdle of walls, whose backdrop is the State and the Bourbon kingdom, whose history is the many establish- other pizza breads typical of the area may be enjo- extra-virgin olive oil, Gaeta olives and products of the sea: an archi- Albergo Gennarino a Mare (60, via Dante Tel: coast, you continue south to reach MINTURNO, COSMA E DAMIANO, also overlooking the plain. impressive Monte Faggetto with its sparkling water deeply tied to that of the town. It stands on the top yed at l'Antico Forno Giordano (39, via conserved in oil, it's worth stopping at l'Azienda pelago made irresi- 0771 80071), La Kambusa (15, via Banchina which sits on a slight elevation overlooking the Here sausages, blood sausage products and springs known as 'faggetina'. Campodimele is of a hill, looking out over the orange groves, the ments offering Independenza Tel: 0771 460603; closed Agricola Gli Archi (production in via Mergataro stible by limpid waters, sea-beds teeming with life, Tel: 0771 80280), and Hotel Bellavista (via seaside villages of Scauri and Marina di Minturno strawberry-flavoured wine can be tasted. Carrying famous also as the 'town of long life', due to the lake of Fondi and the Muscat-growing vineyards. entertainment for Mondays), Pizzeria 2000 (36, corso Cavour Tel: Tel: 0771 723904; sales point Simeone srl, via volcanic rock formations and a real sense of the Parata Tel: 0771 809827). VENTOTENE, once and bounded by the promontories of Monte d'Oro on inland towards the north, you'll reach SPIGNO high average age of its inhabitants. Here, there are Just outside the village, a stop can be made at the 0771 464611; closed Mondays) or Pizzeria del Appia 65, closed Sundays). Formia has a diversity Mediterranean. PONZA, where myth and legend used by the Romans as a place of detention for and Monte d'Argento. This is one of the most SATURNIA with its historic centre up on the hill many typical dishes still prepared using the old Azienda Equituristica Sughereta di S. Vito everyone. Corso (25, via Mazzini Tel: 0771 464010; closed of excellent restaurants in which to taste the best are bound up with the popular imagination, was members of the imperial family, retains many tra- historic centres in southern Lazio, with origins and the new town below in the valley. The moun- methods, for example pasta and beans or snails (47, via S. Vito Tel: 0771 566997; closed Tuesdays). The excellent confectionery specialities products of the region, above all the seafood, and first a Roman colony and then a thriving mediae- ces of that period and in some ways a quality of that go back several centuries before Christ. tains around have a feeling of nostalgia bout them, cooked in goat's sauce. These can be sampled at Wednesdays) which takes its name from the lar- of Giuseppe di Ciaccio (Tel: 0771 311010) are to sample the old Bourbon recipes: Sirio (via val commercial centre; today, it is a renowned tou- the wilderness, its ‘private’ setting protected by the Featured among the many traces of the Roman era bringing together rural simplicity with the traditio- La Longevità (37, via Trento e Trieste Tel: 0771 gest cork oak in southern Italy, and where you can on sale at I Tesori del Gusto (84, corso Cavour Tel: Unità d'Italia Ovest, km 3,5 Tel: 0771 790047, clo- rist resort due to its natural splendours and an Ventotene and S. Stefano Land and Sea Nature is the archaeological district of Minturnae. Local nal culture of the land. Aside from olive oil, fresh 598289; closed Wednesdays). Before reaching eat a number of local specialities such as corian- 0771 452332; closed Sundays), or at the 'buon sed Mondays and Tuesdays), the Villetta da appetising local cuisine that can cater to discrimi- Reserve. It’s a good rendezvous for those who produce can be enjoyed at Il Corsaro (1737, via or conserved ricotta and other cheese products FONDI, the next stop on our way, try making a der-flavoured sausage and smoked meats. ITINERARIES Sperlonga Ristorante alla Corte Azienda Gaeta Itticoltura Ventotene Spigno Saturnia Ristorante Il Selciato Ristorante Laocoonte da Rocco dei Borboni Owner: Antonio Di Ciaccio Ristorante Il Giardino Azienda Owner: Davide Fusco Owner: Rocco D’Arcangelo Owner: Francesco Muscariello This is one of the leading producers of seafood in the Owner: Candida Sportiello Terra delle Ginestre Located in the historic centre of Fondi is this elegant Bay of Gaeta, in particular mussels. Accompanied visits restaurant run by Davide Fusco. It provides a warm In the heart of Sperlonga, this elegant restaurant with Stands in a strategic position offering atmosphere, A medium-sized establishment with an inside room as Owner: Giulio Marrone class and good décor in an environment that features are possible and produce can be bought over the coun- atmosphere. The furnishings reflect care and atten- open-air terrace overlooking a beautiful sea offers well as a veranda. Situated in the interior of the island, This small growers' cooperative was born with the aim many historical touches. The menu is typical and ter. The Routes for Good Taste tion; the service is polite and efficient. The food is well fresh products from the province of Latina, as well as it has a magnificent view over the sea. Whilst not offe- of raising the quality of local grapes. It is possible to attractive, and includes pizza. The managers are prepared and the wine list inviting. good wines, brisk and attentive service and attractive ring a vast choice, the cuisine is of superb quality buy the products and make one-off visits by appoint- expert in the use of excellent primary ingredients and cooking. The Tour of thanks to fresh local produce: the famous lentils, in ment, accompanied by members of the cooperative regional wines. Azienda Antico TYPICAL RESTAURANTS and FARMS addition to the fish. who give polite assistance during tasting. Osteria Brenta Gaeta Forno Giordano in the Province of Latina Owner: Valter Di Manno Ristorante Antico Vico Owner: Enrico Giordano Tucked away in a small corner of Fondi, the hostelry Ristorante S. Agostino Owner: Cosimo Vaudo Minturno Owner: Andrea Valente One of the oldest bakeries in Gaeta, distinguished not run by Valter Di Manno and his wife offers simple food, Managed down to the finest detail with excellent wel- only by its bread, pizza and biscuits, but by its famous Azienda Di Ciaccio Ristorante Grande Ristorante Da Italo Azienda Agricola Gli Archi Ristorante Il Corsaro Itri making use of the freshest possible ingredients. The Giving directly onto the beach, the restaurant is mana- come and service overseen personally by Signora Owner: Giovanni D’Arienzo Azienda Unione menu is only a rough guide to what is available, and and typical tiella or country pizza. Produce can be Gebäck-Spezialitäten Albergo Miramare Owner:Natalino Veneziano Owner: Marina Simeone Agricoltori Itrani ged by the accommodating Andrea Valente who has Vaudo. The cuisine borrows from the Bourbon style, sampled and bought on site. Owner: Giuseppe Di Ciaccio Owner: Antonio Celletti More pub than restaurant, more bakers than pizzeria, is often superseded by ‘dishes of the day’ introduced at given his food a distinctive Pontine touch. Offers fresh This is an ample and spacious establishment, with a A young olive-producing company, concerned with Owner: Sig. Manzi with seafood dominant. The wine list is uncomplica- Already established nationally for its traditional con- Situated in lovely surroundings, the restaurant offers modern but pleasing design. Airy and well lit, cleanli- optimising the quality of extra-virgin olive oil and the but with some conventional touches, this establish- the table. Most are based on what is available at local fish, vegetables from the plain and a good wine list. This is a significant cooperative that produces not only ted, with a predominance of whites. fectionery products, among which special mention standards to match those of the hotel. The service is ness and good order are self-evident. The starters and typical olives of Gaeta. Open to visitors. The products, ment is not easily classifiable. The young and enthu- fish and vegetable markets. very fine extra-virgin oil but also many derivative pro- must be given to desserts such as pastiera, tozzetti, elegant and professional with a menu characterised by first courses are excellent, and the wine list is up to all of them excellent, can be bought at 65, via Appia. siastic management team enjoys innovation. ducts that can be bought directly from the farm or sciuscelle and mustaccioli. The house specialities can daily changes and attention to ingredients. all expectations. from various shops in the province of Latina. be bought at the Tesori del Gusto in Gaeta and sampled Azienda Il Frantoio Ristorante Da Veneziano Ponza Oleario Guglietta Marco at the emporium Dettagli d'Arredo. Ristorante Albergo Ristorante Owner: Giovanni Veneziano Owner: Marco Guglietta Il Gatto e la Volpe Gennarino a Mare This spacious and well-furbished establishment has a Campodimele This is a hospitable, family-style farm. Appointments Formia Owner: Tonino und Giancarlo Simeone Owner: Francesco Silvestri are made every Thursday evening for olive oil tasting. Ristorante Sirio broad menu, well able to satisfying even the highest Ristorante La Longevità Run by Antonio and Giancarlo Simeone under the standards. The attractive summer terrace is perfect for Characteristic restaurant, built out over the sea on a It is worth noting the efficient distribution of the far- Owner: Claudio Ferrari Owner: Germano Sepe charming slogan "dishes of the past for the eaters of a relaxing dinner. pier, in the bay of S. Antonio, with private moorings for m's products, even beyond provincial boundaries. The restaurant, converted from an old today". In a welcoming atmosphere, with friendly ser- boats and rubber dinghies. The cooking makes use of A specialist in meats and vegetables from the nearby mill, is the bedrock of the town’s cuisine vice and spacious table layout, you can enjoy simple, ingredients and products that are healthy and typical hills, the restaurant offers a good choice of first cour- and is set in attractive and welcoming down to earth cuisine and an ample array of wines, of the island tradition, such as fish, lobster, shellfish ses, grilled meats and side dishes. The wine list com- grounds. The Ferrari family are profes- including local labels. and seafood of various kinds. plements an informal atmosphere also characterised sional and competent, giving a depen- by uncomplicated food. dably high quality to both restaurant and kitchen. The wine list is exhaustive. Ristorante La Cantinella Owner: Ugo Cimino Unpretentiously managed by the larger-than-life Ugo Pizzeria 2000 Ristorante La Siesta Cimino, who offers cooking closely tied to the region Owner: Cesare Owner: Gianfranco Scotto and its origins; and dishes that change daily. Cervone This is a welcoming and agreeable venue, as much for This pizzeria is famous for Ristorante Borgo Antico Azienda Trippa the eating and drinking as for the style of the manage- its classic tiella, and for a Owner: Sig. De Marco Ristorante Hotel Bellavista Ristorante Masaniello wide choice of pizza by the Norcineria Auriemma ment and service. Parking, private walks and bar faci- Large and spacious, this restaurant (Loc. Owner: Erasmo Mastropietro Owner: Elio Auriemma lities including self-service - these have given La Siesta Owner: Salvatore Nancone slice or to take away. The ingredients are exclusively Set in the historic part of Gaeta, the menu and cooking local and authenticity can be relied on in the meticu- Castellonorato) is ideal for banquets and ceremonies Inviting and airy premises, the large overhanging bal- Situated in the village of Scauri, the azienda supplies an excellent reputation. The menu and wine list offer and has big windows giving an incomparable view cony supported by an ornate structure. The welcome is typical local products. are delightful in their simplicity. The informal style is lous preparation of the dough, according to traditional local fare using the finest salami, cold meats, tripe and consistent with a family-run business. methods of the area. over the Bay of Gaeta. There is a large choice of fish warm, the furnishings simple but practical and the aromatic meats, carefully selected and prepared. dishes, a pleasant atmosphere and friendly service. service good. The menu is traditional and uncompli- cated. Monte S. Biagio Ristorante Albergo Ristorante Mediterraneo Ristorante Ristorante Chinappi dal 1957 Fondi Ristorante Azienda Equituristica Aeneas’ Landing Owner: Roberto Nocca La Villetta da Mario Owner: Stefano Chinappi Caseificio Lo Spicchio Ristorante La Kambusa Castelforte Ristorante Vicolo di 'Mblo Sughereta di S. Vito Owner: Vincenzo Zottola In the centre of Gaeta, this is more of a hostelry than a Pizzeria del Corso Owner: Mario Marino Managed enthusiastically by Stefano Chinappi and his Owner: Lorenzo Di Toro Owner: Settimio Cipollini Ristorante La Scafa Owner: Sig. Simonelli Owner: Ida Brancaleone Angelo Chinappi Owner: Benedetto Falso Fabulous setting, surrounded by trees and close to the restaurant due to its typically Mediterranean character Owner: Set in lovelygrounds, surrounded by plants and flowers family, the restaurant offers a diverse fare (from oyster The specialities of this company are cheeses such as Located in the port, this restaurant is convenient for This is a characteristic and compelling establishment The location is a natural paradise. Set on the Equine sea. The rooms are elegant without being formal, the and unique atmosphere. It is open only in the evening, Specialists in the preparation of the tiella according to (loc. Giànola), Mario Marino's restaurant is a depen- pizza to sushi and tempura) and several set menus mozzarella, caciocavallo, le ciliegine, nodine, and visitors. The furnishings and rooms are pleasing, the A simple and authentic cuisine, with appetising 'dishes at the heart of the town. Simonelli offers different dis- Tourism farm, the restaurant relies heavily on pro- service is of a good standard and the cuisine speciali- but shuts late. Offers a regional cuisine using local an old Bay recipe, it offers a wide variety of pizze by the dable choice. The cuisine offers a diversity of the finest distinguished for the selection of primary ingredients. trecce, all of which are made from buffalo milk. There welcome warm, and it offers a well-balanced menu of the day' on offer, is the hallmark of this restaurant. hes each day, all based on fresh produce bought ducts from the Lazio and Lucania; great attention is ses in local products, notably seafood. The wine list is produce, a good choice of wines with proper attention slice. The ingredients used, both in the dough and the Pontine produce, complemented by a quality selection The impressive wine list offers a large selection of is a small tasting area with qualified personnel and a and good table service. Many dishes showcase the The managers, young and keen, rely very much on locally. This is a highly recommended stop for food paid to sourcing ingredients, all of which are of out- good, with a fine choice of local labels. paid to Lazio producers, particularly from Cori. seasoning, all come from local producers. of wines. labels from the Pontine and Lazio regions. counter for retail sales. island's staple produce. freshly obtained local products. lovers seeking originality and a friendly welcome. standing quality.