MORE INFORMATION AND TIPS SHEET PAPER PATTERN CUTTING OUT SEWING TERMS Key to Symbols Fabric requirements line The pattern sheets A – D are The fabric requirements are based on The grain line is the lengthwise direc­ stapled into the magazine. the fabric we used for our original de­ tion of the fabric. The words “grain Joining line signs. These amounts will change if you line“ are printed along a straight line Large pattern pieces which use a fabric of a different width. or an edge or marked by an ­arrow on cannot be extended­ The fabric pattern determines whether the paper pattern ­piece. When laying SCHNITTBOGEN in a straight line, are all pieces must be in the ­same direc­ the pattern pieces on the fab­ric, the B1/95 drawn on the pattern tion or if some can be reversed. grain line or arrow must lie parallel to Ergänzender und notwendiger Bestandteil zum Gebrauch des Suchnummern Heftes. Sämtliche Modelle stehen unter Urheberschutz. sheet in two pieces. These the fabric . Integral an essential part 1 2 7 5 of the issue. All designs 4 are copyrighted. Copying for commercial purposes is not allowed pieces must to glued to­

Printed in Germany. © 1994 Verlag GmbH & Co., gether after they have Offenburg, Germany Pattern layout Fabric fold

BPATTERN SHEET

been traced. A double line indicates the The fold edge of a double layer of attachment5 line. There are also symbols The pattern layout shows how to best ­fabric is called the fabric fold. The (small triangles) that must be matched. place the pattern pieces on our original straight edge of a pattern piece which fabric. Fold the fabric double, with the should lie on this fold edge is marked right side in. (see the broken line on the cutting lay­ When cutting from a single layer of out). When cutting fabric pieces, this fab­ric, the right side should face up. numbers edge does not need a ­ 4 Pattern pieces which are shown on the since ­there is no seam here. show where pieces layout with broken outlines should be are to be sewn to­ pinned to the fabric face down (i.e. gether. print­ed side facing down). Neaten an edge Match the same seam Grey shaded areas show which pieces Zigzag along the edge of the numbers. are to be interfaced. ­seam allowance­ to prevent the edge from fraying. Test stitch on a scrap first to check stitch length and width. Alter­ natively, the fabric edge can be finished Armhole markings with a serger ( machine). are small notches on the sleeve and The edges of seam allowances which lie The size outlines, the colour (red, blue, front armhole edge. They must meet together are trimmed close to the stitched green or black), the numbers of the seam. This reduces the bulk of the pattern pieces and the pattern sheet when the sleeve is set in. allow­ances on a faced edge (e. g. on (A–D) are printed with the pattern pockets or collar) and prevents the overview in the sewing instructions for ­allowances from appearing as a bump each style. Seam and allowances on the right side of the fabric. The pattern piece numbers can be Seam marks are not included on Burda Style sewing found at the edge of the pattern sheet are found on long patterns. Add 1–2 cm (⅜ – ¾ in) for Facing in the colour given for the pattern. seams. Match the seams and 2–5 cm (¾ – 2 ins) for . is a piece of fabric used to finish edges small symbols to and openings. It is cut the same shape one another. as the edge to be finished. This is why Marking lines there is usually no pattern ­piece for the TRACING THE Transfer the pattern piece lines to the facing. Instead it is drawn on the pat­ PATTERN PIECES wrong side of your fabric with Burda tern piece for the front, for example,­ Style ‘s carbon paper. and must be traced from there. Slit mark Hand-baste along the lines (e.g. for This mark indicates the ­pockets or centre front) to make them Baste / Stitch / ­beginning/end of a slit, e.g. visible on the right side of the fabric. To baste means to sew with long at side slits, pocket openings ­stitches by hand. To stitch is to use a or at zip slits. ­. Topstitching means Direction of nap stitching by machine on the right fabric side, along a seam or an edge. Top­ Some fabrics have a pile, e.g. velvet, stitching may be just decorative or may corduroy, or velours. The pile fibers of serve to hold down seam allowances. symbol the fabric lie in a certain direction. Fold the pleat in the Determine the direction of the nap by direction of the arrow. running your hand over the fabric – / with the nap will smooth pile fibers To ease means to match a longer seam down and against the nap will raise the line to a shorter seam line when sewing fibers. them together (for shaping). To gather means to shorten a fabric ­piece 4 The following symbols will only be The pattern pieces cut from fabric with along a seam line. To do this, machine found on the pattern overview. On the a nap must all lie in the same direction. baste along the longer edge, then hold pattern sheet, the words are written. The direction of the nap is indicated on the pattern layout. the threads and gather the Gather ­fabric along the threads, to the desired Ease length. Stretch Directional prints Right and wrong fabric sides If your fabric has a directional print, The right side of a fabric is the “better“ the pattern pieces must all be pinned side. The colours on the right side are to the fabric so that the lower edges lie brighter. This side will be on the out­ in the same direction. When working is the symbol for seams and side of your garment. The wrong side is with checks, widthwise stripes or a duller and will be on the inside. topstitching lines. widthwise print, make sure that the Trace the pattern pieces onto tissue­ pattern lines match at vertical seams. ­paper or place yellow carbon paper and Right sides together/facing a large sheet of paper under the pattern Lay one fabric piece on another with sheet and then trace over the pattern with right fabric side of the one lying piece outlines with a blunt knitting (Vilene/Pellon) facing the right side of the other. The indicate edges or lines wrong sides will be on the outside. needle.­ to be cut or slashed Interfacing can be of synthetic or na­tural fibres. There are several kinds of Inter­ Also transfer all markings and seam facing available, to suit a variety of To face numbers onto your paper pattern ­fabrics. This means sewing two pieces­ of fabric ­pieces. Check the traced pattern pieces Position of fastener Interfacing gives body to pieces which together and then turning them right against the drawing in the instructions. for , need to hold their shape. side out so that the seam allow­ances are , eyelets The sewing instructions specify the enclosed. The seam lies along the edge ­required Interfacing. and may be topstitched.

9/2017 burdastyle 1