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South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland 11

South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland 11

South , & Swaziland

Limpopo Kruger p412 National Park p395 Johannesburg North West & Mpumalanga Province p323 p374 p435 Swaziland p495

Free KwaZulu- State Natal p305 p236 Northern Lesotho Cape p471 p446

Eastern Cape p177 p108 p52

James Bainbridge, Robert Balkovich, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Lucy Corne, Shawn Duthie, Anthony Ham, Ashley Harrell, Simon Richmond PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to , CAPE TOWN . . . . . 52 Stanford...... 137 Lesotho & Swaziland. . . . . 6 Greyton ...... 140 South Africa, Lesotho ...... 140 & Swaziland Map...... 8 WESTERN CAPE. . . 108 ...... 141 South Africa, Lesotho Winelands ...... 109 ...... 141 & Swaziland’s Top 25. . . . 10 Stellenbosch...... 109 De Hoop Need to Know...... 22 Franschhoek...... 118 Nature Reserve...... 142 First Time South Africa, Paarl...... 123 ...... 142 Lesotho & Swaziland. . . 24 Tulbagh ...... 127 ...... 144 What’s New...... 26 Robertson...... 129 ...... 145 If You Like...... 27 McGregor...... 130 George...... 148 Month by Month. . . . . 30 The ...... 131 Montagu Itineraries ...... 32 & Outeniqua Passes . . . . 149 Nature Reserve...... 131 Activities...... 38 Herolds Bay...... 149 Betty’s Bay ...... 133 Travel with Children. . . . 43 ...... 150 ...... 133 Wilderness...... 150 Regions at a Glance. . . . 46 KEREN SU / GETTY IMAGES © WOLF AVNI /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

UMKHUZE GAME RESERVE P277 ROGER DE LA HARPE / GETTY IMAGES ©

BATELEUR EAGLE P556 Contents

Garden Route National Park West Coast Rhodes...... 226 (Wilderness Section). . . . 152 & Swartland...... 170 Eastern ...... 227 Buffalo Bay...... 152 Darling...... 170 Graaff-Reinet ...... 227 ...... 152 West Coast Camdeboo Knysna to National Park ...... 171 National Park ...... 230 ...... 158 Langebaan...... 171 Nieu Bethesda ...... 231 Plettenberg Bay Paternoster...... 172 Mountain Zebra & Around...... 158 Elands Bay...... 173 National Park ...... 233 Route 62 ...... 161 Cradock...... 234 Montagu...... 161 Wilderness Area...... 173 ...... 164 Citrusdal & Around . . . . 174 KWAZULU-NATAL. . . . 236 ...... 164 Clanwilliam & Around. . . 175 ...... 237 ...... 165 South Coast ...... 256 Central Karoo...... 167 . . . . 177 Warner Beach...... 256 Prince Albert...... 167 Garden Route East. . . . 180 Umzumbe . . . . 169 Garden Route National & Umtentweni...... 257 Park (Tsitsikamma Gorge...... 258 Section)...... 180 Margate, Ramsgate Storms River...... 182 & Southbroom ...... 259 Sunshine Coast ...... 184 North Coast...... 260 St Francis Bay...... 184 Umhlanga Rocks Jeffrey’s Bay...... 185 & uMdloti Beach...... 260 Port Elizabeth...... 190 Ballito...... 262 Addo Elephant KwaDukuza...... 262 National Park ...... 197 Zululand...... 263 Grahamstown...... 203 Mtunzini...... 263 Port Alfred...... 206 Eshowe...... 264 Amathole...... 209 Ulundi...... 266 East London ...... 210 . . . . 268 Hogsback...... 211 The Elephant Coast. . . 269 The Wild Coast. . . . . 213 Hluhluwe...... 269 Chintsa...... 214 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Morgan Bay Park ...... 270 & Mouth ...... 217 iSimangaliso Coffee Bay...... 218 Park...... 272 Mthatha...... 220 Tembe Elephant Park . . . . 282 Mthatha to . . . 282 Port St Johns ...... 221 The Midlands. . . . . 283 Port St Johns ...... 222 Pietermaritzburg...... 283 Pondoland...... 225 & Northeastern Highlands...... 226 Ukhahlamba- Drakensberg Park. . . . 287 KGALAGADI Lady Grey ...... 226 TRANSFRONTIER PARK P459 Southern Berg ...... 289 ON THE ROAD

Central Berg...... 294

Northern Berg...... 297 MAXIMILIANE WAGNER /GETTY IMAGES © Battlefields...... 299 Spioenkop Nature Reserve...... 299 Ladysmith...... 301 Dundee...... 302 Isandlwana & Rorke’s Drift ...... 303 Blood River...... 304

FREE STATE. . . . . 305 P424 ...... 308 Northern Free Dullstroom...... 376 The Waterberg ...... 420 State...... 313 Waterval Boven Soutpansberg...... 422 Parys & Vredefort (Emgwenya)...... 378 Louis Trichardt...... 422 Dome Area...... 313 Sabie ...... 379 Musina...... 423 Eastern Highlands & Pilgrim’s Rest...... 382 Southern . . . . 315 Mapungubwe Graskop...... 383 National Park ...... 424 Harrismith...... 315 Blyde River Canyon. . . . . 385 Venda...... 425 Sterkfontein Dam Nature Reserve...... 315 Eastern Lowveld. . . . . 386 Valley of the Olifants ...... 428 Golden Gate Highlands Hazyview...... 387 National Park ...... 316 Nelspruit (Mbombela). . .. 388 Letaba Valley...... 428 Clarens...... 317 Komatipoort...... 391 Tzaneen...... 429 Bethlehem...... 320 Barberton ...... 392 Modjadjiskloof ...... 431 Fouriesburg...... 320 Phalaborwa...... 432 Ficksburg...... 321 KRUGER Hoedspruit ...... 433 ...... 322 NATIONAL PARK. . . 395 Gariep Dam Private NORTH WEST Nature Reserve...... 322 Wildlife Reserves. . . . 410 PROVINCE...... 435 Philippolis...... 322 Sabi Sand Rustenburg...... 437 Game Reserve...... 410 Sun City...... 438 JOHANNESBURG Manyeleti Pilanesberg & GAUTENG. . . . . 323 Game Reserve...... 411 National Park ...... 440 Timbavati Private Madikwe Johannesburg...... 326 Game Reserve...... 411 Soweto...... 356 Game Reserve...... 442 ...... 362 Magaliesberg Range . . . . 444 ...... 412 Polokwane...... 413 MPUMALANGA. . . . 374 NORTHERN ...... 417 CAPE...... 446 Drakensberg Mokopane ...... 417 Escarpment...... 376 Kimberley ...... 447 Bela-Bela...... 419 Contents

UNDERSTAND

The Upper Karoo . . . . . 454 ...... 486 South Africa, Lesotho . . . . 454 Sani Top...... 487 & Swaziland Today. . . . . 516 Victoria West...... 455 Central Highlands . . . . 488 History...... 518 The Kalahari...... 445 Bokong Environment...... 536 ...... 455 Nature Reserve...... 488 Wildlife & Habitat. . . . 545 Katse Dam...... 489 Nature Reserve...... 456 Thaba-Tseka ...... 489 Music...... 561 Upington...... 456 Mohale Dam...... 490 Food & Drink...... 570 Kgalagadi Semonkong...... 490 People & Culture . . . . . 577 Transfrontier Park . . . . . 459 Southern Lesotho . . . . . 490 Augrabies Falls Malealea...... 491 National Park ...... 463 Mohale’s Hoek ...... 492 Riemvasmaak...... 464 ...... 492 Namakwa & the Qacha’s Nek ...... 493 Hantam Karoo...... 464 Sehlabathebe ...... 465 National Park ...... 493 SURVIVAL Port Nolloth...... 466 GUIDE |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park . . . . . 467 SWAZILAND. . . . . 495 Namaqua ...... 498 Safe Travel...... 586 National Park ...... 468 Central Swaziland . . . . 500 Directory A–Z...... 589 Calvinia ...... 469 Ezulwini Valley ...... 500 Transport...... 604 Sutherland...... 470 ...... 503 Mlilwane Health...... 621 LESOTHO...... 471 Wildlife Sanctuary. . . . . 504 Language...... 626 Malkerns Valley...... 505 Maseru...... 475 Index...... 635 Manzini ...... 507 Around Maseru...... 480 Northwestern Map Legend...... 646 Thaba-Bosiu...... 480 Swaziland...... 508 Roma ...... 480 Ngwenya ...... 508 Morija...... 481 Malolotja Northwestern Nature Reserve...... 509 Lesotho ...... 482 Komati Valley ...... 510 ...... 482 SPECIAL Northeastern Leribe...... 483 Swaziland...... 511 FEATURES Butha-Buthe...... 483 Hlane Royal Wildlife Ts’ehlanyane National Park ...... 511 & Habitat...... 545 National Park ...... 484 Mlawula Music...... 561 Northeastern Nature Reserve...... 512 Highlands...... 485 Mbuluzi Menu Decoder . . . . 574 Liphofung Cave Game Reserve...... 513 Safe Travel...... 586 Cultural & Mkhaya Historical Site...... 485 Game Reserve...... 513 Oxbow ...... 485 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 32

Itineraries

ZIMBABWE

MOZAMBIQUE Limpopo Kruger

÷# National É Park É Johannesburg Mpumalanga North West •#

Province Gauteng SWAZILAND É

Free

# – State KwaZulu-Natal Northern LESOTHO

Cape É

Eastern AT L A N T I C Cape O C E A N I N D I A N Western O C E A N Cape CAPE #_•# Stellenbosch TOWN

2 WEEKS Kruger to Cape

This trip combines wildlife watching with the Cape’s scenery and culture. Head directly east from Jo’burg’s OR Tambo International Airport to Kruger ­National Park, where more than 20,000 growly members of the Big Five (lion, , buffalo, elephant and rhino) roam the bushveld. Staying in a bush camp or luxurious private reserve and going on self-drive safaris, guided drives and walks will keep you and your binoculars busy. From Kruger, head back to the bright lights of Jo’burg. Spend a night in the inner-city Maboneng precinct’s art hotel or hostels, experiencing Afro- globalisation and meeting local hipsters in the galleries and bars. Next, pick up a flight to Cape Town; alternatively, take a scenic overnight train ride in tourist class on Shosholoza Meyl’s trans-Karoo service (or the Blue Train or Rovos Rail from Pretoria). Relax and enjoy one of the world’s most beautiful cities, spending your days exploring the likes of and Kirstenbosch National , and your nights dining in world-class restaurants and drinking in the ‘Tavern of the Seven Seas’. The Mother City is surrounded by beaches and vineyards; have lunch in winemaking Stellenbosch and wander the refined Cape Dutch student town’s lanes. 33

Northern Cape PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Prince Eastern

Albert Cape

•# É Western Pass •# •# Garden Route Cape Calitzdorp •# Pass É National Park É (Tsitsikamma Cogmanskloof Nature's Montagu Section) Stellenbosch Pass Valley •# É •#÷# •# •# •# É CAPE •# Wilderness •# #_ É •# Knysna TOWN Franschhoek Plettenberg It É Bay i nerar

False É Bay Stanford AT L A N T I C •# •# É O C E A N Hermanus •# i es Cape I N D I A N Agulhas O C E A N

2½ WEEKS Cape Cruise

Beautiful scenery, excellent infrastructure and numerous attractions make this the South Africa of the glossy brochures. The route can be covered on public transport, but is perfect for a road trip in your own car. After a few days in Cape Town, fitting in historical and cultural sights such as the Bo-Kaap neighbourhood, Zeitz MOCAA Museum and Irma Stern Museum alongside the scenic , head out to the Winelands. Spend a night or two wine tasting in the vineyard-clad valleys of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. From Stellenbosch take Rte 44 for one of the world’s most beautiful coastal drives, to Hermanus, where you can watch southern right whales (June to December). Overnight or stop for lunch in the 19th-century village of Stanford, before making your way to Cape Agulhas, Africa’s southernmost point. Next, head along the Cogmanskloof Pass in the range to countrified Montagu. With its whitewashed cottages and rustic accommodation, the quaint town is a great base for rock climbing and the Robertson Wine Valley. Continue along Rte 62 through the Little Karoo, between rolling mountains dotted with farms and charming little towns such as port-making Calitzdorp. Cross the Swartberg range on the Meiringspoort Pass, from Oudtshoorn to the Great Karoo and Prince Albert. This pretty 18th-century village is green and fertile, with irrigation channels in the streets. The nearby highway leads back to Cape Town; al- ternatively, backtrack south, possibly via the untarred Swartberg Pass, to Wilderness’ beaches and lagoons. East along the Garden Route, old-growth forests rise into the moun- tains above Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, both offering water sports and activities. Finally, descend a windy road to the beach village of Nature’s Valley, where happy hikers finishing the five-day Otter Trail hang their boots in a tree outside the pub. Short- er hikes also lead into the surrounding Garden Route National Park (Tsitsikamma Section). 34

ZIMBABWE

MOZAMBIQUE Limpopo PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Madikwe Blyde River Game Canyon BOTSWANA Reserve Nature Reserve Kruger

÷# ÷# É ÷# National Park Pilanesberg Pilgrim's Rest •#•# National Park Graskop

÷# É É

•#Sun City É É Mpumalanga Malolotja É ÷# Nature Reserve Johannesburg •# SWAZILAND

It North West Gauteng Ezulwini and •# Province ÷# Mkhaya i nerar Malkerns Valleys Game Reserve

É

÷# uMkhuze Game Reserve i es Hluhluwe- ÷# iSimangaliso Free State iMfolozi Wetland Park Northern Park ÷# Cape

KwaZulu-Natal É

LESOTHO Durban •#

2 WEEKS Safari Special

South Africa is one of the continent’s best safari destinations – in a fortnight it’s possible to cover several parks and reserves, plus a few extra stops such as the dramatic Blyde River Canyon. From Jo’burg’s OR Tambo International Airport, head east to the country’s safari showpiece, . The wildlife here and in the adjoining private wildlife reserves will hold you captivated. Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, near Kruger’s southern and central sections, offers views of the river as it snakes from the Drakensberg Escarpment to the lowveld. Stay overnight in nearby Graskop, a good base for outdoor activities and a visit to Pilgrim’s Rest, a 19th-century gold-rush village. If time is tight, hit the N4 west for wildlife watching on sealed roads in Pilanesberg National Park, within four hours’ drive of OR Tambo International Airport. Stay in the Big Five park or the adjoining Sun City casino complex. A little further, Madikwe Game Reserve is an exclusive destination with accommodation in five-star lodges (and one ecolodge). If you have a full two weeks, head south from the Kruger area to Swaziland’s Malolotja Nature Reserve, where hiking trails cross and forests, and along the Ezulwini and Malkerns valleys – stop to admire the woodlands and pick up local craftwork. Swaziland’s highlight is the wildlife-rich , known for its unsurpassed black and white rhino populations. Explore the bushveld thickets and open veld on a guided walking safari. Leaving Swaziland, hit the to uMkhuze Game Reserve, where animals lap at waterholes in pans surrounded by fever trees. Nearby are the waterways and diverse eco- systems of iSimangaliso Wetland Park, and Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, where hiking the wilderness trails is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. From there, continue south along the to Durban’s well-connected airport and beaches, restaurants and bars. 35

NAMIBIA Ts'ehlanyane

Kimberley National Park KwaZulu-

•# É

É ÷# É Natal LESOTHO •# •#•#Drakensberg Free Malealea •# Roma Sani State Pass

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Northern É Cape

Nieu Eastern É Cape Bethesda •# É Graaff- Mountain Zebra Reinet •#÷# ÷# National Park É •# •# Wild Camdeboo É •# Hogsback Coast

National

É Elundini It Western É Park •# É Cape Prince i nerar Albert ÷# Addo Elephant É National Park #_ CAPE i es TOWN

I N D I A N O C E A N

4 WEEKS Grand Circuit

This epic itinerary covers the bottom half of South Africa, including Wild Coast beaches, the Karoo semidesert and mountainous Lesotho. From Cape Town head along Rte 62 and over the Swartberg Pass to Prince Albert. Venture further into the Great Karoo’s open spaces to reach the refined oasis of Graaff- Reinet, nicknamed the ‘jewel of the Karoo’ for its 220-plus national monuments and his- tory stretching back to 1786. Also in this corner of the Karoo are , with Cape buffaloes and the Valley of Desolation’s views over the plains, and arty Nieu Bethesda, home of the sculpture-adorned Owl House. Stop at Mountain Zebra National Park for tracking and more Karoo panoramas, or continue straight to Addo Elephant National Park, where great white sharks and southern right whales complete the ‘Big Seven’. Moving east, the Amathole Mountains are worth an inland detour for the eco-­ backpackers in Hogsback and Elundini. Staying in a rondavel hut by a Wild Coast beach is likely to be a trip highlight when mixed with cultural experiences and community-­run activities. Heading north to the jagged green sweep of the iconic Drak- ensberg, take South Africa’s highest pass, the Sani Pass (2876m), to Lesotho, where Africa’s highest pub awaits. Hiking and pony trekking in altitudinous Lesotho, you will meet Basotho people clad in conical hats and patterned woollen blankets. Spend at least a few days crossing the mountain kingdom, stopping at beautiful lodges in the likes of Ts’ehlanyane National Park and Malealea. Pass your last Lesothan night among sandstone cliffs in Roma, a 19th-century mission station and now the country’s seat of learning. Over the international , zip through the Free State’s shimmering golden fields to the and its capital, Kimberley. The city that witnessed the world’s great- est diamond rush is a great place to get a feel for South African history. From here, Sho- sholoza Meyl’s trans-Karoo Express will whisk you back to Cape Town (or up to Jo’burg). 36

Gauteng •# •# Johannesburg North West MOZAMBIQUE Soweto Mpumalanga Province SWAZILAND

É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Golden Gate Highlands National Park

•# É KwaZulu- Clarens ÷# Natal

Sentinel •# Royal Natal Free National Park HikingTrail ÷# É State Midlands •# Meander LESOTHO É I N D I A N

It •#Durban O C E A N É i nerar

Northern ÷# Cape É Nature Reserve i es

•# Port St Johns

Eastern É •# Cape Coffee Bay

East •# London •# Chintsa

3 WEEKS Eastern Wander

This eastern jaunt mixes awesome mountain scenery with Xhosa and Zulu culture, and rural calm with urban vibes, giving a good look at the classic South Africa. After touching down at OR Tambo International Airport, linger a few days in dynamic Jo’burg, seeing how urban regeneration is transforming the inner city and creating hip enclaves of restaurants and bars. Go on a city walking tour or head out to South Africa’s most famous township, Soweto. Moving on from Jozi, cross the Free State and leave the N3 at Harrismith, to take scenic Rte 712 past Sterkfontein Dam to Clarens. The arty town, with its galleries and microbrewery, has surroundings worthy of an impressionist landscape. Next, stay in a chalet in the nearby Golden Gate Highlands National Park, with its hiking trails between sandstone outcrops in the foothills of the Maluti Mountains bordering Lesotho. Just outside the park, the day-long Sentinel Hiking Trail climbs the iconic Amphi- theatre to the top of the Drakensberg Escarpment. Next, spend a couple of days enjoying the spectacular Drakensberg day walks, such as Tugela Gorge, in Royal Natal National Park. Declimatise from the Draks on the twee Midlands Meander, with its guesthouses and ceramic studios, before hitting Durban, a city of beaches and Indian cuisine that is slowly being revitalised. Near the Eastern Cape border, Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve is an oft-overlooked reserve with cliffs and forests above the Umzilkulwana River. From here, detour off the N2 and along the coast through Pondoland to Port St Johns – a laid-back introduc- tion to the Wild Coast’s pristine beaches and friendly Xhosa locals. Pastel rondavel huts dot the green hills overlooking the region’s gravel roads, which lead to some stunning community-run hostels around Coffee Bay. At the southern end of the Wild Coast, spend a final night by the Indian Ocean in Chint- sa, and pick up a plane, train or bus from nearby East London to Jo’burg or Cape Town. 37

Northern MOZAMBIQUE BOTSWANA Cape

Kgalagadi Transfrontier

Park North West TRIP YOUR PLAN NAMIBIA Paternoster ÷# Province •# SWAZILAWNeDstern É Cape |Ai-|Ais/ Witsand É

Richtersveld Augrabies Falls West Coast É Nature Transfrontier National Park Reserve ÷#National •#Tulbagh

Park ÷# •# ÷# Park É ÷# É

Port Nolloth•#É É Upington É LESOTHO É Franschhoek McGregor Namakwa Northern CAPE •# •#

#_ •#

Cape TOWN É É •# Boesmanskloof It É

AT L A N T I C Calvinia É Trail

Kogelberg ÷# i nerar •# Karoo O C E A N Biosphere •# •# Greyton National Reserve Cape Cederberg Park Hermanus

÷# ÷# Hangklip Wilderness Area É Eastern

É •# Cape i es

CAPE É Matjiesfontein #_ AT L A N T I C TOWN Western Cape O C E A N

The Wild 2½ 1 Alternative Cape WEEKS Northwest WEEK

Some of South Africa’s gnarliest terrain is With its mountains, culture and wine, the found in the vast Northern Cape province, Western Cape is a justly popular holiday which this itinerary tours in conjunction destination. This itinerary suggests a few with the Western Cape’s wilder corners. spots to escape the crowds alongside some old favourites. From Cape Town, head north to the mountainous Cederberg Wilderness From Cape Town, head north to the Area, with its sandstone formations, , which offers lodges and campgrounds. Continue to the a glimpse of the spring wildflower bloom Hantam Karoo outpost of Calvinia, be- alongside Langebaan Lagoon. Overnight fore hitting the through the Namakwa here or in Paternoster, with its white- region, its rocky expanses carpeted with washed cottages and glorious beaches. wildflowers in spring. Almost at the end of Turning inland, mountain ranges sur- the region’s straight roads is remote Port round the wineries of Tulbagh. Further Nolloth. If you have a 4WD, continue to into the Winelands, Franschhoek distils the surreal mountain desert of |Ai-|Ais/ the area’s refined charm, with its Hugue- . Richtersveld Transfrontier Park not heritage, vineyards and restaurants. Head east to Augrabies Falls Nation- Cross the Franschhoek Pass to the village al Park for hiking, rafting and canoeing, of Greyton, for thatched cottages, restau- followed by a sunset cruise in Upington. rants, mountain views and Genadendal Continue north through the Kalahari Mission Station. The Boesmanskloof to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, an Trail leads hikers to the New Age village excellent place to spot big cats, and see of McGregor. more of the thirsty semidesert at Witsand Return to Cape Town via Hermanus, . Return to Cape Town Nature Reserve the world’s best land-based whale-watch- via the Great Karoo, with stops includ- ing destination (June to December), and ing Karoo National Park and historic along Rte 44, passing Cape Hangklip and Matjiesfontein­ . Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 633

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

to ­Christos, , Hanli and Nonhlanhla for OUR READERS ­making the planet seem less lonely. Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, Jean-Bernard Carillet useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adrian A huge thanks to everyone who helped out and Solitander, Amanda Captain, Andre Sennema, made this trip an enlightenment, especially Andrew Spence, Anthony Loftus, Ben Furstenau, Doné, Renée, Esti, Leigh and all of the people I Brian McCollom, Camilla Hughes, Christian Ungruhe, met on the road. At Lonely Planet I’m grateful Craig Steiner, Greg Poole, Henriette Poelman, James to Matt for his trust, and to the hard-working Timmis, Jeremy Marx, Ludo van Mil, Mariska de Beer, editors. At home, a gros bisou to Eva and lots of Megan Harris, Petra O’Neill, Rafael Serrano, Thomas love to Morgane, whose support was essential. Dijkema, Vera de Visser Lucy Corne Huge thanks to the team in Kimberley – WRITER THANKS ­Dianna, Romano, Kim, Joy and Tebogo – and James Bainbridge to Fayroush, Christa, Brian and Nadia at SAN Thanks in 11 languages to my fellow writers Parks. Baie dankie to Ailsa Tudhope for making Simon, Lucy, Shawn and Ashley for beers and me fall in love all over again with Prince Albert, banter in the Southern Suburbs during this and to Johan, Debbie, Martiens and Cathy for update; to the rest of the writer team for your making my life easier on the road. Big love to contributions; to everyone who helped me on Shawn, who didn’t help because he was busy the road in Mpumalanga and Cape Town; and to with his own chapter, and a huge high five to Leigh-Robin, Oliver and Thomas for putting up Kai, who makes a pretty awesome travel buddy with my long hours typing in the garden shed. and helps me to see everything through the eyes of a four-year-old. Robert Balkovich Thank you to my mother and father. To my Shawn Duthie ­sister for always coming along for the ride. Many thanks to Matt and the team at Lonely To everybody I met along the way, especially Planet for their great help and support, as all of the South Africans who were eager to always. In Swaziland, a massive thank you to learn where I was coming from, and thrilled Xolani and Nikki at Big Game Parks. Finally, to show me their beautiful country. Especially thank you to Lucy and Kai, my inspirations for everything I do. 634 Anthony Ham Simon Richmond Heartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips, my Africa Many thanks for the help, friendship and friend and editor of long standing for con- ­advice from the following: fellow writers tinuing to entrust me with a corner of the James and Lucy, Heather Mason, Bheki earth I adore. To my family, Marina, Carlota Dube, Gerald Garner, Mike Luptak, Sheryl and Valentina: thank you for sharing my love Ozinsky, Nicole Biondi, Iain Harris, Lee Harris,

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND of Africa and for giving me so many special Brent Meersman and Amber April. memories there. Ashley Harrell ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to: editor Matt Phillips for trusting Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, me with a piece of Africa; the Peace Corps Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated­ crew (Gaby, Ryan and Hindrik) for their World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate ­invaluable input; everyone at Semonkong Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Lodge for helping with my destroyed rental Sciences, 11, 1633–44. car; ­Madeline Moitozo and Nikki Gamer for Cover photograph: Giraffe, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi the highly amusing company; Anne Kamau Park; Christopher Scott/Getty Images ©. Isavwa (and Tony, Ella and Joshua) for letting me move in for a second; MAF for showing me Lesotho from the air; and Belinda Groves for renewing my faith in human goodness.

Destination Editor Forge, Emma Gibbs, Jennifer THIS BOOK Matt Phillips Hattam, Cath Lanigan, Louise­ This 11th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editor McGregor, Kate Morgan,­ Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho Elizabeth Jones Gabrielle Stefanos, Simon Williamson & Swaziland guidebook was Product Editor Carolyn researched and written by ­Boicos Assisting Cartographers James Bainbridge, Robert Laura Bailey, Anita Banh Senior Cartographer Diana Balkovich, Jean-Bernard Von Holdt Cover Researcher Naomi Carillet, Lucy Corne, Shawn Lauren Egan Parker Duthie, Anthony Ham, Ashley Book Designer Thanks to Ronan Abaya­ Harrell and Simon Richmond. Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Michelle Bennett, Peter wickrema, Andi Jones, Kate This guidebook was produced Kiely, Kate Mathews, Claire by the following: Cruttenden, Jacqueline Danam, Andrea Dobbin, Samantha Naylor, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 635

Index

!Khwa ttu 172 Echo Caves 385 Stevenson beaches 1820 Settlers National Ithala Game Reserve 268 ­(Johannesburg) 340 Arniston 142 Monument 203 Kitching Fossil Exploration Tatham Art Gallery 284 Cape Town 53, 70 Centre 232 Thohoyandou Arts & Cape Vidal 276 Culture Centre 426 Makapan’s Caves 418 Clifton 4th Beach 65 A Mapungubwe National William Humphreys Art 555 Durban 244-6 Park 424-5 Gallery 451 abseiling 57 Langebaan 171 Sterkfontein Caves 360 arts 581-4, see also accessible travel 600-1 Beach 70-1 West Coast Fossil Park individual­ arts accommodation 24-5, 171-2 ATM scams 587 Port Alfred 206 ­589-92, see also ATMs 596 Port Elizabeth 190 individual­ locations 457 Augrabies Falls National Port St Johns 222 language 626 architecture 583-4 Park 463-4 uMdloti Beach 260 activities 30-1, 38-42, see area codes 23, 598 Warner Beach 256-7 also individual activities Arniston 141-2 Addo Elephant National art galleries 29, see B bearded vultures 556, 556-7 also museums Beaver Creek 259 Park 16, 197-203, 16, 201 baboons 549, 548-9 African fish eagles 556, 556 AHEM! Art Collective 101 Babylonstoren 122 beer 327, 572, see also breweries African National Congress Art Gallery (Durban) 240 Bainskloof Pass 125 (ANC) 525-8, 531 Bela-Bela 419-20 Art It Is 101 Ballito 262 African penguins 559, Belvidere 153 Arts on Main 334 ballooning 123, 229 74, 558 Campbell Collections 241 Bergville 297 Barberton 392-4, 393 African wild dogs 555, 555 Ceramics Gallery 118-19 Bethel 492 language 626-8 Barberton Makhonjwa CIRCA Gallery 340 Geotrail 394 Bethlehem 320 141 Duggan-Cronin Gallery bargaining 25 Betty’s Bay 133 |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld 451 Barrydale 164 bicycle travel, see cycling Transfrontier Park 467-8 Everard Read 340 Basotho blankets 484 Big Hole 447 AIDS 516-17, 534, 535, 623 Goodman Gallery Cape 101 Basotho Cultural Village Big Tree 182 air travel 605-6, 610 Guga S’Thebe Arts & 16, Biko, Steve 530 Akkerendam Nature Reserve Cultural Centre 73 16 Basotho people 474, 487 bilharzia 624 469 Hazard 335 birds 538, 556-9, 545, Aliwal Shoal 257 Johannesburg Art Gallery bateleur eagles 556, 2, 545 556-9 Amathole 209-13 327 bathrooms 600 birdwatching 38-9 amusement parks 70, 246 Kwazulu Natal Society of Bathurst 206 Anglo-Boer Wars 302, 308, Arts 241 battlefields Agulhas National Park 141 523-4 Mirrors Gallery & Crystal Blood River 302, 304 Bird Island 173 animals 27, 536-8, 545-60, Corner 211 Colenso 302 Birds of Eden 159 see also individual species Nelson Mandela Elandlaagte 302 Boulders Penguin Colony antelopes 550, 13, 550-1 ­Metropolitan Art Isandlwana 302, 303-4 69 apartheid 335, 526-30, Museum 191 69 532-3 Laing’s Nek, Oliewenhuis Art Museum ­Schuinshoogte & Dlinza Forest Reserve 265 308 Apartheid Museum 335, Majuba 302 Dullstroom Bird of Prey & 342-3 Pretoria Art Museum 363-4 Magersfontein 451 Rehabilitation Centre aquariums 63-4 Republic of Rustica 469 Rorke’s Drift 302, 304 377 archaeological sites, see Rust en Vreugd 63 Dwesa Nature Reserve 218 also rock art Spioenkop 302 South African National Talana 302 iSimangaliso Wetland Cradle of Humankind 21, Gallery 61 Park 272-3 360, 21 Ulundi 267 South African Print Kruger National Park 401 Gallery 101 Battlefields region 299-304, 300 Ndumo Game Reserve Spaza Art Gallery 340 282-3 Map Pages 000 Baviaanskloof Wilderness Stevenson (Cape Town) Ngoboseleni Trail 280 Photo Pages 000 101 Area 183 636 birdwatching continued Buganu Festival 502 casinos 439 Cradle of Humankind 21, Spioenkop Nature Bulungula 219 Castor & Pollux 301 360, 21 Reserve 299 bungee jumping 180 Cathedral Peak Nature Cradock 234-5 Umgeni River Bird bunny chow 251 Reserve 294 credit cards 596 Park 241 bus travel 26, 608, 611-12, cats 547, 546-7 cricket 99, 582 uMkhuze Game Reserve 617 caves, see also rock art crime 586-8 277

INDEX INDEX bushbabies 549 Bats Cave 276 Crocodile River 391 Walker Bay Nature Bushman’s Nek 294 Battle Cave 296 cruises 609-10, 611, see Reserve 140-1 Bushveld 417-22 Echo Caves 385 also boat trips West Coast National bushwalking, see hiking Klipgat Caves 140-1 Cullinan 366 B-D Park 171  culture 27, 577-84 World of Birds 67 business hours 597 Main Cave (Giant’s

Castle) 297 currency 595, 597  Black Rock 281 Butha-Buthe 483-4 Makapan’s Caves 418 customs regulations 592 Bloemfontein 308-13, 310-11 Mapuzi Caves 219 cycling 606, 611, see Blood River 304 C Pinnacle Point Caves 145 also mountain biking Blue Train 619 Calitzdorp 164-5 Stadsaal Caves 174 Cape Town 73 Blyde River Canyon 15, Calvinia 469-70 Sterkfontein Caves 360 Durban 246 385-6, 15, 28 Camdeboo National Park Waenhuiskrans Cave 141-2 Franschhoek 121 boat travel 609-10, 611 230-1 Wonderwerk Cave 457 Prince Albert 168 boat trips camping 590-1 Cederberg Wilderness Area Tulbagh 128 Cape Town 72-3 canoeing 39, see 18, 173-4, 18, 138 Durban 246, 247 also kayaking cell phones 598-9 iSimangaliso Wetland Kowie Canoe Trail 207 D Park 273 Shipwreck Hiking & Central Berg 294-7 dance 584 Kalahari 457 Canoe Trail 207 Ceres 619 dangers, see safety Knysna 153, 155 canyoning 41, 159 chacma baboons 549, Darling 170-1 Port Alfred 206 Cape Agulhas 141 548-9 Champagne Valley 295-6 St Francis Bay 184-5 Cape Floral Kingdom 539 142 Chapman’s Peak Drive 78 Boer Wars, see Anglo-Boer Cape of Good Hope 69 De Kelders 140 Wars Cape St Francis 184 Charters Creek 277 dengue fever 623 Bo-Kaap 61 Cape Town 11, 46, 52-107, 233, 269, 459, deserts 560 Bokong Nature Reserve 54-5, 58-9, 62-3, 66, 547, 546 diamond mines 366, 524 488 68, 82-3, 10-11, 74-5 children, travel with 43-5 Die Antwoord 568 accommodation 52, chimpanzees 388 difaqane 522 80-6 143-4 Chintsa 214-17 dinosaur footprints 483, 492 activities 71-8 books 516 cholera 623 disabilities, travellers with cooking 572, 575 children, travel with 70 churches 600-1 culture 579 climate 52 Anglican Church 313 distilleries 432, see environmental issues 543 drinking & nightlife 94-7 Belvidere Church 153 also breweries, wineries health 622 entertainment 97-100 Dutch Reformed Church diving & snorkelling 39, history 520, 521, 524, festivals & events 228 538 526, 527, 528, 531, 532 ­78-80, 98 St John’s Church 420 Cape Town 73-6 literature 582-3 food 52, 86-93 cider 572 iSimangaliso Wetland politics 533 highlights 54-5 cinema 563, 581-2 Park 273 wine 572 history 53 Citrusdal 174-5 Port Elizabeth 191 border crossings 606-7 LGBT travellers 104-5 Clanwilliam 175-6 Sodwana Bay 280 Botha, PW 531-2 markets 70, 10 Clarens 14, 317-19, 318, 14 South Coast 257 Boulders Penguin Colony medical services 106 climate 22, 30, 31, see dolphin watching 69, 74, 558 safety 106 also individual regions iSimangaliso Wetland Bourke’s Luck Potholes 385 shopping 100-6 climate change 543 Park 273 braai 571, 574 sights 53, 56-71 climbing 42, 71-2, 161- M Kambati Nature Reserve 225 brandy 572 tourist information 106 2, 379 Plettenberg Bay 157 breweries 137, 153, tours 78 Coastal Forest 281 Port Elizabeth 191 170, 572, see also township tours 72-3 Coetzee, JM 582 St Francis Bay 184 ­distilleries, wineries travel seasons 52 Coffee Bay 218-19 donkeys 130 bubblegum music 567 travel to/from 106 Coffeebeans Routes 327 Drakensberg 12, 287-99, budgeting 23, 591, 593 travel within 106-7 Constantia 65 290, 12 Buffalo Bay 152 Cape Vidal 276 consulates 592-4 Drakensberg Escarpment Cape vultures 422 cookbooks 572, 575 376-86, 377 car travel 376, 608-9, 612-17 costs 23, 591, 593, 595 Drakenstein Correctional courses Map Pages 000 547, 547 Centre 125 cooking 575 Photo Pages 000 carjacking 616 drinks 28-9, 571-3, 576 language 594 637 driving, see car travel Makuleke Contract G greater galagoes 549 drugs 588 Park 408 Gamkaskloof 168 green initiatives 543 72, 76 Pilanesberg National Gamtoos Valley 183 Greyton 140 Park 440 Dullstroom 376-8 Gandhi, Mohandas ground hornbills 559, 558 Dundee 302-3 Tembe Elephant Park 282 ­(Mahatma) 241, 284, Durban 26, 237, 240-56, Elgin Valley 136 340, 526 Elim 428 242-3, 244-5, 248 Gansbaai 140-1 H INDEX Haenertsburg 428-9 accommodation 248-50 Elundini 213 Garden Route 16, 144-61, Hantam Karoo 464-70 activities 246-7 Emakhosini Ophathe 146-7 Heritage Park 267-8 Harrismith 315 drinking & nightlife 252-3 Garden Route East 180-4 embassies 592-4 Hartbeespoort Dam 444  -D-H emergency services 254 Garden Route National embroidery 429 Hazyview 387-8 entertainment 253 Park (Tsitsikamma emergencies 23, 627 Section) 180-2, health 275, 621-5 festivals & events 248 16 environmental issues 541-4 Garden Route National heat exhaustion 625 food 250-2 climate change 543 Park (Wilderness heatstroke 625 history 240 drought 541, 544 Section) 152 Hemel-en-Aarde 133 medical services 254 endangered species 537 gardens, see parks & hepatitis 623 safety 254 gardens green initiatives 543 shopping 253-4 Gariep Dam Nature Hermanus 133-7, 134-5, 139 ivory trading 537 sights 240-6 Reserve 322 Herolds Bay 149-50 rhino poaching 542 street names 240 Gauteng 48, 323-73, 324-5 hiking 26, 40-1 sustainable fishing 573 tourist information 254-5 accommodation 323 Afriski Mountain Resort Eshowe 264-5 485 tours 247-8 climate 323 , see Swaziland |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld travel to/from 255-6 food 323 etiquette 25 Transfrontier Park 467 travel within 256 highlights 324-5 events 30-1 Amathole Trail 212 Dwarsrivier Farm 175 history 326 exchange rates 23 Augrabies Falls National Dwesa Nature Reserve 218 LGBT travellers 351 Park 463 Ezulwini Valley 500-3, 501 travel seasons 323 Barberton Makhonjwa gay travellers 595 Geotrail 394 E Cape Town 104-5 Belvedere Day Walk 386 eagles 556, 2, 545, 556 F Fani’s Island 277 Johannesburg 351 Boesmanskloof Trail 130 East London 210-11 festivals & events 30-1 Pretoria 351 Bokong Nature Reserve Eastern Cape 47, 177-235, Ficksburg 321 gemsboks 550 488 178-9 Genadendal 140 Cape of Good Hope accommodation 177 films 516, 563, 581-2 geography 536 Trail 69 climate 177 fishing 39-40, 226, 246, 273, 376, 428, 573 geology 536 Cederberg 18 food 177 flamingoes 559, George 148-9 Chokka Trail 184 highlights 178-9 558-9 food 25, 28-9, 570-6, Giant Flag 231 Cliff Path Walking Trail language 180 134 see also individual Giant’s Castle 296-7 travel seasons 177 locations Crag Lizard Trail 231 giraffes 552, 552-3 travel to/within 180 books 572 Crayfish Trail 173 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park Eastern Highlands 315-22, Dokolewa Waterfall costs 593 270-2 316-17 Trail 429 courses 575 Oceana Beach & Wildlife Dolphin Trail 181 Eastern Lowveld 386-94, 377 language 574-6, 626-7 Reserve 206 Eerstefontein Day Trail economy 577-8 football 475, 582 Spioenkop Nature 231 Ecoshrine 211 Fort Klapperkop 373 Reserve 299-300 Elephant Day Walks 153 Elands Bay 173 Fouriesburg 320-1 God’s Window 385 Elijah Mbonane 298 electricity 592 Franschhoek 118-23, , Goegap Nature Reserve 465 119 Garden of Eden 153 Elephant Coast 269-83, 138 Golden Gate Highlands Giant’s Cup Trail 293 266-7 Free State 48, 305-22, National Park 16, 316-17 elephantiasis 623 golf 70, 246, 432 Goegap Nature Reserve 306-7 465 elephants 537, 552 Gordimer, Nadine 582 accommodation 305 Green Mountain Trail 136 Addo Elephant National climate 305 gospel music 566 Park 16, 197-203, -Fowl Trail 386 food 305 government 525-35 16, 201 Hanglip Trail 422 highlights 306-7 Graaff-Reinet 227-30, 228 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park Coastal history 308 136 18, 270-2, 18 Trail 153 language 308 Grahamstown 203-6, 204 Ithala Game Reserve Hlane Royal National 268-9 tourist information 308 Graskop 383-5, 383 Park 512 Kruger National Park 396 travel seasons 305 Graskop Gorge 383 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park 271 Madikwe Game Reserve travel to/from 308 Great Limpopo 443 Freedom Park 362-3, 342 ­Transfrontier Park 396, Hodgson’s Peaks 487 560 539, 542 Kadishi-Tufa Trail 386 638 Klipspringer Trail 463 56 horse riding 41, see also entertainment 351-2 Kruger National Park Chancellor House 327 pony trekking festivals & events 31, 399-401 Church Square 203 Addo Elephant National 336-7, 340 Park 199 Leopard Kloof Trail 133 City Hall (Durban) 240 food 323, 344-8 Cape Town 77 Leopard Trail 386 Cosmopolitan, the 335 highlights 324-5 Franschhoek 121 Lion’s Head 76 Drakenstein Correctional history 326 Hogsback 212 INDEX INDEX Louis Changuion Trail 428 Centre 125 LGBT travellers 351 Lourie Trail 386 Fort (Ladysmith) 301 KwaZulu-Natal 273, markets 353 295, 298 Malealea 491 Houses of Parliament 57 medical services 354 Malolotja Nature Reserve Limpopo 420 safety 354

H-K Joubert House 162  510 Maseru 475-6 KwaNodwengu 267 shopping 352-4

Maltese Cross Trail 174 Mlilwane Wildlife sights 326-35  Melrose House 363 ­Sanctuary 504 Millwood Gold Mine tourist information 354 Mgungundlovu 268 Mpumalanga 377, 379 Walk 153 tours 335-6 No. 7 Castle Hill 191 Port Alfred 207 Mkhaya Game Reserve travel seasons 323 514 Old Harbour 133-4 Robertson 129 travel to/from 354-5 Mlilwane Wildlife Ondini 267 Ts’ehlanyane National ­Sanctuary 504-5 Owl House 232 Park 484 travel within 355-6 Jonker, Ingrid 583 Mountain Zebra National Prestwich Memorial 61 hot springs 464 Jonkershoek Nature Park 233-4 Sugar Terminal 243 Harbour 65 Reserve 109 Ngwempisi Gorge 506 Talana Heritage Park & hyenas 555 June 16 Memorial Acre 357 Oakes Falls 130-1 Battlefield 302 Otter Trail 181 history 27-8, 518-35 Outeniqua Trail 153 African National I Imhoff Farm 71 K Oystercatcher Trail 145 Congress (ANC) Kabeljous Estuary 185 immigration 45, 601, 604-5 Port St Johns 223 525-8, 531 Kagga Kamma 128 immunisations 622 Rasperpunt Trail 141 Anglo-Boer Wars 302, Kalahari 455-64 impalas 550, Rhebok Hiking Trail 316 308, 523-4 551 Harbour 71 Incwala 502 Sabie 380 apartheid 526-30, 532-3 Kaphunga 507 Injisuthi 296 safety 77, 295, 587-8 Battle of Blood River Karoo, Central 167-9 522-3 insect bites & stings 625 Sani Top 487 Karoo, Eastern 227-35 books 520, 521, 524, insurance 594 Sentinel Hiking Trail 320 Karoo National Park 169 526, 527, 528, 531, 532 health 621 Sevilla Rock Art Trail Karoo, Upper 454-5 175-6 British arrival 521-2 vehicle 614 Kassiesbaai 142 Shipwreck Hiking & democracy 532-5 internet access 594 Katse Dam 489 Canoe Trail 207 difaqane 522 internet resources 23, 596 Strandloper Hiking kayaking 39, see European settlement environmental issues 539 also canoeing Trail 214 520-1 health 621 Cape Town 77-8 Sundowner Trail 214 Great Trek 522-3 history 518, 520, 525 Knysna 155 Swellendam Hiking homelands 527, 529 Trail 143 music 562 Paternoster 173 internet resources 518, Table Mountain National Isandlwana 303-4 Kei Mouth 217-18 520, 525 Park 56-7, 76-7 iSimangaliso Wetland Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park Iron Age kingdoms Thabana-Ntlenyana 487 Park 14, 272-82, 274, 13, 459-62, , 519-20 460 13 Ts’ehlanyane National 14, 279 Khomani 459 Park 484 Lesotho 474-5 Ithala Game Reserve 268-9 Kimberley 447-53, 450 San people 518-19 itineraries 32-7 Tsitsikamma Mountain Kirstenbosch National Swaziland 497-8 Trail 181 ivory trading 537 Botanical Garden 67, uKhahlamba­Drakensberg Truth & Reconciliation 69, 75 Park 288-9 Commission 534 Kirstenbosch Summer Whale Trail 142 hitching 617 J Sunset­ Concerts 31, 568 jazz music 565 Wild Coast 12 HIV 516-17, 534, 535, 623 kitesurfing 78, 247 Jeffrey’s Bay 185-90, 186, Wolfberg Arch Trail 174 Hlane Royal National Park Klein River Cheese Farm 137 Himeville 291-3 511-12 200 Klipspringer’s Pass 169 hippos 282-3, 391, 408, Johannesburg 19, 48, Hluhluwe 269-70 Kliptown 358 552, 553 323-56, 324-5, 328­ -9, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park kloofing 41 historic buildings & sites 18, 270-2, 271, 18, 332-3, 336, 339, 19, 012central 363 279, 560 342-3 Knysna 152-8, 154, 157, Blood River Heritage Hoedspruit 433-4 accommodation 323, 138-9 Site 304 Hogsback 211-13 337-44, 354 Ko Kasi 456 Hole in the Wall 219 climate 323 131 holidays 598 drinking & nightlife Map Pages 000 348-51 Kokerboom Food & Wine honey badgers 555, 554 Route 462 Photo Pages 000 emergency services 354 Komati Valley 510-11 639 Komatipoort 391-2 Lionsrock 320 Liphofung Cave Cultural & Matsieng 482 Kosi Bay 281-2 Makuleke Contract Historical Site 485 Mbabane 498-500, 499 Kruger National Park 11, Park 408 literature 582-3, see also mbaqanga music 564-5 books 49, 395-411, 397, 398, Tembe Elephant Park 282 Mbeki, Thabo 533, 534-5 Lobamba 503-4 404-5, 11 Leribe 483 Mbombela 388-91 Long Tom 301 accommodation 395, lesbian travellers 595 Mbotyi 225 402-8, 409 Lost City 438 Cape Town 104-5 Mbuluzi Game Reserve 513 INDEX activities 397-401 Louis Trichardt 422-3 Johannesburg 351 McGregor 130-1 children, travel with 409 lymphatic filariasis 623 Pretoria 351 Mda, Zakes 582-3 climate 395 Leshiba Wilderness 423 measures 596  K-M disabilities, travellers Lesotho 17, 50, 471-94, 517, with 409 M media 581  40 ,17 ,472-3 Maboneng 19, 334-5, 19, medical services 622-3 emergency services 409 accommodation 471 entry times 409 342-3 555, 554-5 climate 471, 475 Machel, Graça 523 food 395, 402-8 Meiringspoort Pass 165 economy 578 Madikwe Game Reserve 19, highlights 397 microlighting 41-2 embassies & consulates 442-4, 19 history 396 593 Midlands 283-7 Magaliesberg Range 444-5 private reserves 410-11 food 471 Midlands Meander 286 magazines 596 sights 396-7 highlights 472 mines 508-9 Magersfontein 451 tours 401-2 history 474-5 Mission Rocks 276 Magoebaskloof Pass 429 travel seasons 395 language 475 Mkambati Nature Reserve Maguga Dam 510-11 travel to/within 409-10 legal matters 594 225-6 Makeba, Miriam 565 Kuruman 455-6 literature 583 Mkhaya Game Reserve 20, Makuleke Contract Park 408 513-14, KwaDukuza 262-3 money 597 20 malaria 275, 623-4 Mlawula Nature Reserve kwaito music 562-3, 567-8 music 568-9 Malealea 491-2 512-13 KwaZulu-Natal 26, 47, public holidays 598 Maletsunyane Falls 488 Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ­236-304, 238-9 safety 587-8 Malkerns Valley 505-7, 504-5 accommodation 236 telephone services 598-9 501 Malolotja Nature Reserve mobile phones 598-9 climate 236, 237 trading posts 17 509-10 Modjadji 431 food 236 travel seasons 471 Mandela, Nelson 526, 528­ -9, Modjadjiskloof 431-2 highlights 238-9 travel to/from 475 532-4, 535, 575 Mofolo, Thomas 583 history 237 travel within 475 Drakenstein Correctional mohair 230 language 237 lesser flamingoes 559, Centre 125 Mohale Dam 490 travel seasons 236 558-9 museums & monuments Mohale’s Hoek 492 travel to/within 237 Letaba Valley 428-9 221, 308, 327, 357-8 Mokala National Park 454-5 kwela music 562, 564 LGBT travellers 595 cell 64, 74 Mokhotlong 486-7 Cape Town 104-5 Mantenga Cultural Village Johannesburg 351 & Nature Reserve 500 Mokopane 417-19 L Pretoria 351 Manyeleti Game Reserve money 22, 23, 592, 595-7 Lady Grey 226 411 ATM scams 587 Ladybrand 322 lighthouses 141, 184 Manzini 507-8, 508 monkeys 159, 549, 548-9 Ladysmith 301 lilac-breasted rollers 559, Mapungubwe National Park Monk’s Cowl 295-6 Ladysmith Black Mambazo 559 15, 424-5, , Montagu 161-2, 164 561-2, 566 Liliesleaf Farm 335 4 15 marabi music 563-4 Montagu Pass 149 L’Agulhas 141 Limpopo 49, 412-34, 414-15 Moolmanshoek Private Lake Fundudzi 427-8 accommodation 412 421-2 Game Reserve 321 Lake Sibaya 281 climate 412 Marble Baths 296 Morgan Bay 217-18 Lala Nek 281 food 412 Margate 259-60 Morija 481-2 Lammergeier Hide 297 highlights 414-15 Mariner’s Wharf 65 Moses Mabhida Stadium Langa 73 history 413 markets 571 241 Langebaan 171-2 language 413 Cape Town 70, 102 Moshoeshoe the Great 474 Langebaan Lagoon 171 travel seasons 412 Garden Route 151 Mossel Bay 145-8, 148 languages 22, 25, 626-32 travel to/within 413 Johannesburg 353 motorcycle travel 608-9, courses 594 lions 547, 546-7 Manzini 507 612-17 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park food 574-6, 626-7 mountain biking 41, see 270 North West Province 444 lappet-faced vultures 556 also cycling Lionsrock 320 Pretoria 363 legal matters 594-5 Winelands 115 Cape Town 73 547 Makuleke Contract Park 408 marula trees 432 Free State 313 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park Mary Fitzgerald Square 327 Hlane Royal National 270 Tembe Elephant Park 282 Park 512 Kruger National Park Maseru 475-9, 476-7 uMkhuze Game Reserve Knysna 153 396, 11, 547 Mathambo, Spoek 568 277 Matjiesfontein 167 Kruger National Park 401 640 mountain biking continued Drostdy Museum 143 Old Harbour Museum Akkerendam Nature Malealea 491 Dukuza Museum 263 133-4 Reserve 469 Mlilwane Wildlife East London Museum Old Library 228 Amakhala Game Reserve Sanctuary­ 504 210 Origins Centre 331 199 Mountain Zebra National Elephant Hall Museum Oude Kerk Volksmuseum Augrabies Falls National Park 233-4 397 128 Park 463-4 mountain zebras 233-4, 552 Paarl Museum 123 Bambelela 419

INDEX INDEX Fort Nongqayi Museum Mpumalanga 48, 374-94, Village 265 Phansi Museum 241 Blyde River Canyon 375 Franschhoek Motor Photographic Museum Nature Reserve 386 accommodation 374 Museum 120 134 Bokong Nature Reserve

M-N 488  climate 374 Fransie Pienaar Museum Polokwane Art Museum food 374 168 413 Bontebok National Park 143-4  highlights 375 Freedom Park 362-3, 342 Port Natal Maritime history 376 Museum 243-4 Botlierskop Private Hector Pieterson Game Reserve 145 language 376 Museum 357 Port Nolloth Museum 466 Reinet House 228-9 Camdeboo National Park travel seasons 374 Hester Rupert Art 230-1 Museum 227 SAB World of Beer 327 Mswati III, King 497-8 Cape Columbine Nature Mt Tabor 276 Huguenot Memorial Sammy Marks’ Museum Reserve 173 Museum 118 373 Mt Thesiger 222 Cape of Good Hope 69 Mthatha 220-1 International Library of Schreiner House Museum 234 Cathedral Peak Nature MTN Bushfire Festival 502 African Music 203 Reserve 294 Sci-Bono Discovery Mtunzini 263-4 Interpretation Centre Cederberg Wilderness 424-5 Centre 327 museums, see also art Area 18, 173-4, 18, 138 Irma Stern Museum 69 Siege Museum 301 galleries De Hoop Nature Reserve Sol Plaatje Museum & Afrikaans Language Iziko Slave Lodge 57 142 Library 451 Museum 123 Kalahari-Orange Dlinza Forest Reserve 265 Alanglade 382 ­Museum 457 South African Hall of Fame 26, 439 Dwesa Nature Reserve Albany History Museum King Shaka Visitor 218 203 Centre 263 South African Jewish Museum 61 Falcon Ridge 295 Albany Natural Science Kitching Fossil Featherbed Nature Museum 203 ­Exploration Centre 232 South African Museum 62-3 Reserve 153 Alexander McGregor Komatiland Forestry South End Museum 191 Fernkloof Nature Reserve ­Memorial Museum 451 Museum 379-80 133 Toy & Miniature Museum Anglo-Boer War Museum Koopmans-de Wet 112 Franklin Nature Reserve 308 House 61 308 Tzaneen Museum 429 Apartheid Museum 335, KwaMuhle Museum 240 Game Breeding Centre University Museum 113 342-3 KwaZulu-Natal Museum 418 Victorian House Museum Bakone Malapa Open-Air 284 Garden Route National Museum 413 382 Langa Pass Museum 73 Park 152, 180-2, 16 Barberton History & Village Museum 109, 112 Mining Museum 392 Luthuli Museum 263 Gariep Dam Nature Whale House Museum Reserve 322 Barberton Museum 392 Mandela House Museum 133-4 357-8 Goegap Nature Reserve Big Hole 447 Winterton Museum 294 465 Bo-Kaap Museum 61 Masitise Cave House Wits Art Museum 330-1 Museum 493 Golden Gate Highlands Calvinia Museum 469 Workers’ Museum 330 McGregor Museum 450 National Park 16, 316-17 Cape Town Science Zeitz MOCAA Museum Morija Museum & Goukamma Nature Centre 70 64, 28 Archives 481 Reserve 152 56 music 561-9 Highmoor Nature Msunduzi Museum 284 Centenary Centre 270 Musina 423-4 Reserve 291 Museum Africa 327 Hlane Royal National Museum 64 Natal Sharks Board 261 Park 511-12 Constitution Hill 331, 334 National Cultural History N Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park Museum 363 Namakwa 17, 464-70 CP Nel Museum 165 18, 270-2, 271, 18, Dias Museum Complex National English Literary Nan Hua Temple 371 279, 560 Museum 203 145 national parks & reserves Hluleka Nature Reserve Diggings Museum 382 National Museum 309 539-41, see also parks 221 & gardens Museum 56-7 Natural Science Museum Hottentots Holland Ditsong National 240 Addo Elephant National Nature Reserve 136 Park 16, 197-203, Museum of Military Ncome Museum 304 Inkwenkwezi Game , History 335 Nelson Mandela Museum 16 201 Reserve 215 Agulhas National Park 221 Intaka Island 70 141 Old Courthouse Museum iSimangaliso Wetland |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Map Pages 240 000 Transfrontier Park Park 14, 272-82, 274, Photo Pages 000 Old Gaol Museum 153 467-8 14, 279 641 Ithala Game Reserve Oceana Beach & Wildlife West Coast National P 268-9 Reserve 206 Park 171 Paarl 123-7, 124, 126 Jonkershoek Nature Oribi Gorge Nature Willem Pretorius Game Painted Stone Garden 393 Reserve 109 Reserve 258 Reserve 314 painting 584 Kamberg Nature Reserve Paarl Mountain Nature Witsand Nature Reserve 291 Reserve 123 456 paragliding 41-2, 71 Kariega Game Reserve Pilanesberg National Nature’s Valley 160 parks & gardens, see also national parks & INDEX 199 Park 20, 440-2, Ndebele language 628 reserves Karoo National Park 169 441, 20 Ndebele people 427 Company’s Garden 57 Keurbooms River Nature Polokwane Game Ndumo Game Reserve Donkin Reserve 190 -Reserve 158 Reserve 413 282-3  N Kgalagadi Transfrontier Pumba Private Game Nelspruit (Mbombela)  P Reserve 199 241 Park 13, 459-62, 388-91, 389 Eye of Kuruman 456 460, 13 Rietvlei Nature Reserve newspapers 596 373 Fairy Realm Garden 211 Kogelberg Nature Ngwempisi Gorge 506 Reserve 131 Rondevlei Nature Green Point Urban Ngwenya 508-9 Kruger National Park 11, Reserve 70 Park 70 Nieu Bethesda 231-3 49, 395-411, 397, 398, Royal Natal National Harold Porter National Noetzie 158 404-5, 11 Park 298-9 Botanical Gardens 133 Lake Eland Game Sabi Sand Game Reserve 61 Katse Botanical Garden Reserve 258-9 410-11 Noordhoek Farm Village 71 489 Lionsrock 320 Sanbona Wildlife Reserve North Coast 260-3, 261 Kings Walden 429-30 Madikwe Game Reserve 164 North West Province 49, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden 67, 19, 442-4, 19 Schotia Game Reserve 435-45, 436 198 69, Makuleke Contract accommodation 435 75 Park 408 Sehlabathebe National climate 435 Knysna Lagoon 153 Park 493-4 Malolotja Nature Reserve food 435 KwaZulu-Natal National Shamwari Game Reserve Botanical Garden 284 509-10 highlights 436 198-9 Lowveld National Mantenga Cultural history 436-7 Village & Nature Sibuya Game Reserve 199 ­Botanical Garden 388 travel seasons 435 Reserve 500 Silaka Nature Reserve 222 Naval Hill 308 travel to/within 437 Manyeleti Game Reserve Silvermine Nature Orchid House 308 411 Reserve 69-70 Northeastern Highlands Prayer Trail 211 226-7 Mapungubwe National Spioenkop Nature Pretoria National Northern Berg 297-9 Park 15, 424-5, 4, 15 Reserve 299-300 ­Botanical Garden 373 Marakele National Park Sterkfontein Dam Nature Northern Cape 50, 446-70, Pretoria National 421-2 Reserve 315 448-9 ­Zoological Gardens 363 Stony Point Nature accommodation 446 Qacha’s Nek Snake 143 Reserve 133 climate 446 Park 493 Mbuluzi Game Reserve Swartberg Nature food 446 Raffia Palm Monument 513 Reserve 168 highlights 448 263 Mkambati Nature Table Mountain National language 447 Robberg Nature & Park 56-7 Reserve 225-6 travel seasons 446 Marine Reserve 159 Mkhaya Game Reserve Tankwa Karoo National Rust en Vreugd 63 Park 470 Northern Soto language 20, 513-14, 20 628 Stellenbosch University Tembe Elephant Park 282 Mlawula Nature Reserve Nsangwini Rock Art Shelter Botanical Garden 113 512-13 Timbavati Private Nature 511 Sunland Big Baobab 431 Reserve 411 Mlilwane Wildlife VOC Vegetable Garden 57 Ts’ehlanyane National ­Sanctuary 504-5 Zoo Lake 335 Park 484-5 Modjadji Nature Reserve O Parow, Jack 568 uKhahlamba- observatories 175 431 Parys 313-15 Drakensberg Park Ondini 267 Mokala National Park passports 601, 604-5 454-5 287-99, 290 opening hours 597 Patensie 183 Moolmanshoek Private Umgeni River Bird City Farm 63 Park 241 Paternoster 172-3 Game Reserve 321 Oribi Gorge 258-9 Mountain Zebra National Umhlanga Lagoon Paton, Alan 582 Orlando Towers 358, 343 Park 233-4 Nature Reserve 261 penguins 69, 184, 559, ostriches 165, 559 Musina Nature Reserve uMkhuze Game Reserve 74, 558 423 277, 280, 2 Oude Molen Eco Village 70 Phalaborwa 432-3 Namaqua National Oudtshoorn 165-7, 166 Philippolis 26, 322 Park 468 264 Ouplaas 142 phonecards 598 Ndumo Game Reserve Umtamvuna Nature Outeniqua Pass 149 photography 597 282-3 Reserve 259 Overberg, the 131-44, 132 Pietermaritzburg 283-7, 285 Nylsvley Nature Reserve Walker Bay Nature Oxbow 485-6 Pilanesberg National Park 419 Reserve 140-1 Oyster Festival 31 20, 440-2, 441, 20 642 Pilgrim’s Rest 382-3 R S seafood 571, 573 Pinnacle 385 rabies 624 Sabi Sand Game Reserve secretary birds 556, 557 Plaatje, Sol 582 race relations 516 410-11 Sehlabathebe National planetariums 70, 308 racial groups 578-80 Sabie 379-82, 380 Park 493-4 planning, see also radio 596 sables 550, 550 Semonkong 17, 490, 17 individual regions rafting 39, 234, 313-4, safaris 34, 537-8 Shadrack Mkhulunyelwa activities 38-42 INDEX INDEX 481, 514 Addo Elephant National Matsebula, James 583 basics 22-3 Ramphele, Mamphela 527 Park 16, 197-203, Shakaland 265 budgeting 23, 591, 593 Ramsgate 259-60 16, 201 Sharpeville 527 calendar of events 30-1 shared taxis 608, 617-18

P-S Rastafarian community 153 Eastern Cape Private  children, travel with 43-5 reed dance 21, 502, 21 Wildlife Reserves 198-9 shark-cage diving 140, 146 first-time travellers 24-5 reggae music 567 Hlane Royal National sharks 538 internet resources 23 Park 511-12 religion 517, 581 Shewula 511 itineraries 32-7 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park responsible travel 544 Sibebe Rock 498 regions 46-50 18, 270-2, 271, 18, rhino poaching 542 63 repeat visitors 26 279, 560 rhinos 541, 552, 552 Simon, Paul 567 travel seasons 22, 30, 31 iSimangaliso Wetland Hlane Royal National skiing 485 plants 539 Park 14, 272-82, 274, Park 512 skydiving 71, 145, 159, 247 14, 279 Plettenberg Bay 158-61, 158 snakes 493 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park Kalahari 457 politics 516, 517, 525-35 270-2 Snijmanshoek 320 Polokwane 413, 416-17, 416 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Ithala Game Reserve Park 13, 459-62, snorkelling, see diving & Pondoland 225-6 268-9 snorkelling 460, 13 Ponte City 331 Kruger National Park 396 soccer 475, 582 Kruger National Park 11, pony trekking 41, 480, Mkhaya Game Reserve 49, 387, 388, 395-411, Sodwana Bay 280 491, 40, see also horse 20, 513, 20 solo travellers 588 riding 397, 398, 404-5, 11 Ndumo Game Reserve soul music 567 population 516-17, 577-80 Kruger Private Wildlife 282-3 Reserves 410-11 South African Astronomical Port Alfred 206-9, 208 Spioenkop Nature KwaZulu-Natal 268, 270 Observatory 470 Port Elizabeth 190-7, 192-3 Reserve 299-300 Madikwe Game Reserve South Coast 256-60, 258 Port Nolloth 466-7 Tembe Elephant Park 19, 442-4, Southbroom 259-60 Port St Johns 219, 222-5, 282 19 Mkhaya Game Reserve Southern Berg 289-94 223, 200 Willem Pretorius Game postal services 597-8 Reserve 314 20, 513-14, 20 Southern 628-9 Pretoria 362-72, 364, Rhodes 226-7 Pilanesberg National Park 20, 440-2, Soutpansberg 422-8 368-9, 372 rickshaws 256 441, 20 accommodation 364-7 Riemvasmaak 464 Soweto 356-62, 358-9 drinking & nightlife 370-1 Tembe Elephant Park Soweto Gospel Choir 566 road trips 162-3, 165, 163 282, 283 emergency services 371 spas 419 Robben Island 64, 2 safety 586-8, see also festivals & events 364 Spioenkop Nature Reserve Robertson 129-30 individual locations food 367-70 299-300 rock art 518, 519, 584, see car & motorcyle travel history 362 Spirit of Emakhosini also archaeological 376, 615-16 Monument 268 LGBT travellers 351 sites Cape Town 106 sports 99, 582 medical services 371 Didima San Rock Art Durban 254 spotted hyenas 555 sights 362-4 Centre 294 hiking 77, 295, 587-8 Springbok 465-6 tourist information 371 Liphofung Cave Cultural hitching 617 & Historical Site 485 550 travel to/from 371-2 Johannesburg 354 Nsangwini Rock Art St Francis Bay 184-5 travel within 372 Lesotho 587-8 Shelter 511 St Lucia 274-6 primates 549, 548-9 safaris 538 Prince Albert 167-9 San Rock Art 298 stand-up ­paddleboarding Swaziland 588 78 Prince Alfred’s Pass 158 Sevilla Rock Art 175-6 Salpeterkrans 320 Stanford 137 Protea Banks 257 Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art Centre 450 Samango monkeys 549, stargazing 18, 470 Protea Farm 162 rock climbing 42, 71-2, 548 Station Drive Precinct 254 public holidays 598 161-2, 379 San people 518-19 Stellenbosch 12, 109-18, Roma 480-1 Sani Pass 293-4, 278 112-13, 116, 12 Q Roof of Africa 490 Sani Top 19, 487-8, 19 Sterkfontein Dam Nature Qacha’s Nek 493 rooibos tea 576 sardine run 220 Reserve 315 Quthing 492-3 Rorke’s Drift 303-4 Sardinia Bay 190 Storms River 182-4, 200-1 Route 62 161-7, 132, 163 savannah 560 141 Royal Natal National Park scams, ATMs 587 Subeng River Dinosaur 298-9 schistosomiasis 624 Footprints 483 Map Pages 000 rugby 99, 582 Schreiner, Olive 582 Sun City 438-40 Photo Pages 000 Rustenburg 437-8 Promenade 65 Sunshine Coast 184-209 643 surfing 42 theft 586-8 Valley of Desolation 231, 7 iSimangaliso Wetland Buffalo Bay 150 Thohoyandou 425-7 Valley of the Olifants Park 273 Cape Town 78 Three Rondavels 385 428-34 Plettenberg Bay 159 Durban 247 Timbavati Private Nature vegetarian & vegan Port St Johns 222-3 Herolds Bay 150 Reserve 411 ­travellers 574 white-water rafting 39, Jeffrey’s Bay 185, 187, time 600 Venda language 629 234, 313-4, 481, 514 Venda people 427 Wild Coast 12, 213-26, 189, 200 tipping 25 INDEX Mossel Bay 146, 150 toilets 600 Venda region 20, 425-8, 426 216-17, 13 Plettenberg Bay 150, 159 Tolkien, JRR 309 vervet monkeys 549, 549 wildcats 547 Port Elizabeth 191 tourist information 600 Victoria Bay 150 wildebeests 550, 550-1 S-W  St Francis Bay 189 tours 610, 618 Victoria West 455 Wilderness 150-1

 Victoria Bay 150 township tours 26 visas 22, 601-2 wildflowers 17, 170, 465, 17 sustainable fishing 573 trading posts 17, 72-3, 357 Visierskerf 320 wildlife 27, 536-8, 545-60, Sutherland 470 traditional medicine 625 visual arts 584 see also individual species Swartberg Pass 165 train travel 609, 618-20 Voëlvry movement 564 wildlife watching 30-1, 42, Transkei 527 volunteering 602-3 Swartland 170-6 537-8 travel to/from South Voortrekker Monument 363 Swati language 629 wine 572 Swaziland 26, 50, 495­ -514, Africa, Lesotho & Vredefort Dome 313 Swaziland 604-10 Winelands 12, 109-31, 12 517, 496 vultures 422, 556, 556-7 wineries, see also breweries, accommodation 495 travel within South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland distilleries climate 495, 498 610-20 Anura 125 economy 578 W trekking, see hiking walking, see hiking Avondale 123-4 embassies & consulates Truth & Reconciliation Warner Beach 256-7 Babylonstoren 122 593-4 Commission 534 water, drinking 571, 625 Backsberg 124 festivals 502 Ts’ehlanyane National Park water parks 438 Barrydale Cellar 164 food 495 484-5 Waterberg, the 420-2 Bergkelder 112-13 highlights 496 Tsikoane Village Dinosaur Bezalel 462 history 497-8 Footprints 483 waterfalls Boschendal 120 language 498 Tsonga language 629 Augrabies Falls 463 Bramon 158-9 legal matters 595 Tswana language 629 Berlin Falls 385 Buitenverwachting 65 literature 583 tuberculosis 624-5 Botsoela Waterfall 491 Calitzdorp region 164 money 597 Tulbagh 127-9 Bridal Veil Falls 379 Vineyards 71 music 568-9 turtles 273-4 Bulolo Waterfall 222 Cederberg Winery 175 public holidays 598 Tutu, Desmond 358, 528, Debengeni Falls 429 Creation 133 safety 588 533 Horseshoe Falls 379 Delaire Graff Estate 114 telephone services 599 TV 596 Lisbon Falls 385 Die Mas Van Kakamas 462 travel seasons 495 Tweezer Rocks 313 Lone Creek Falls 379 Excelsior 129 travel to/from 498 typhoid 625 Mac-Mac Falls 379 Fairview 124 travel within 498 Tzaneen 429-31, 430 Maletsunyane Falls 488 Sabie Falls 379 Glen Carlou 125 Swellendam 142-4, 143 Waterval Boven Graham Beck 129 U ­(Emgwenya) 378-9 Grande Provence 120 T uKhahlamba-Drakensberg weather 22, 30, 31, see 65 Taal Monument 123 Park 287-99, 290 also individual regions Groote Post 170 Table Mountain Cableway­ Ulundi 266-8 websites, see internet Klein Constantia 65 56 uMdloti Beach 260-2 resources KWV Emporium 123 Table Mountain National Umhlanga Reed Dance weights 596 La Motte 120 Park 56-7 Festival 21, 502, 21 West Coast 170-6 Leopard’s Leap 120 Tankwa Karoo National Umhlanga Rocks 260-2 West Coast National Mont Rochelle 119 Park 470 Park 171 uMkhuze Game Reserve Cellars 457 taxes 596-7, 605 277, 280, Western Cape 47, 108-76, 2 Paul Cluver Wines 136 taxis 26, 608, 617-18 Umtentweni 257-8 110-11 Robert Stanford Estate accommodation 108 telephone services 598-9 Umzumbe 257-8 137 climate 108, 109 Tembe Elephant Park 282 Underberg 291-3 Saronsberg Cellar 128 food 108 Temple of Understanding Upington 456-9, 458 Solms-Delta 120 241-2 highlights 110-11 Spice Route 124 Teyateyaneng 482-3 language 109 Spier 113 Thaba-Bosiu 480 V travel seasons 108 Springfield 129 Thabana-Ntlenyana 487 V&A Waterfront 63 whale watching 31, 42, 538 Stanford Hills 137 Thabane, Thomas 475 Vaalwater 420-1 De Hoop Nature Reserve Steenberg Farm 65 Thaba-Tseka 489 vacations 598 142 Tanagra Private Cellar 130 theatre 584 vaccinations 622 Hermanus 133, 134 Tokara 114 644 wineries continued women in South Africa Z Reserve 206 516-17, 580-1 Twee Jonge Gezellen 128 zebras 552, 19 Spioenkop Nature women travellers 603 Reserve 299-300 Vergelegen 113 Dwesa Nature Reserve Vergenoegd 113 Wonder View 385 218 Willem Pretorius Game Reserve 314 Viljoensdrift 129 Wonderwerk Cave 457 iSimangaliso Wetland zef music 568 Villiera 114 work 603 Park 272, 14 zoos 434 INDEX INDEX Warwick Estate 114 Kruger National Park 396 Waterkloof 113-14 Madikwe Game Reserve Zulu culture 264 X Zulu language 630 Witsand Nature Reserve Xhosa culture 224 Mountain Zebra National 456 Park 233-4 Zululand 263-9, 266-7 W-Z Xhosa language 629-30  Oceana Beach & Wildlife Zuma, Jacob 534-5 

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 645 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 646

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/ Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Shawn Duthie Swaziland Originally from Canada, Shawn has been travelling, studying and working around the world for the past 13 years. A love of travel merged with an interest in international politics, and led to several years of lecturing at the and, now, as a freelance political risk consultant special- ising in African countries. Shawn lives in South Africa and takes any excuse to travel around this amazing continent.

Anthony Ham Kruger National Park, Limpopo, North West Province Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and , the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US.

Ashley Harrell Free State, Lesotho After a brief stint selling day-spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided that she’d rather be a writer. She went to jour- nalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and starting covering wildlife, crime and tourism, sometimes all in the same story. Fuelling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she travelled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet. From there her travels became more exotic and further flung, and she still laughs when paychecks arrive.

Simon Richmond Cape Town, Johannesburg & Gauteng Journalist and photographer Simon has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, ­Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS James Bainbridge Cape Town, Mpumalanga James is a British travel writer and journalist based in Cape Town, from where he roams the globe and contributes to publications worldwide. He has been working on Lonely Planet projects for over a decade, ­updating dozens of guidebooks and TV hosting everywhere from the African bush to the Great Lakes. The coordinating writer of several editions of Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland, Turkey and guides, his articles on travel, culture and investment appear in the likes of BBC Travel, the UK Guardian and Independent, Condé Nast Traveller and Lonely Planet Traveller. For this guide, James also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Robert Balkovich KwaZulu-Natal Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking expe- riences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on. He’s on Instagram @oh_balky.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Eastern Cape Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photogra- pher who specialises in Africa, , Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, outdoors, archaeo- logical sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six continents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guide- books, both in English and in French.

Lucy Corne Western Cape, Northern Cape Lucy left university with a degree in journalism and a pair of perpetually itchy feet. She taught EFL for eight years in Spain, South Korea, Canada, China and India, while writing freelance features for a range of magazines, newspapers and websites. She joined the Lonely Planet team in 2008 and has since worked on a range of titles, including Africa, , South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland and several foodie titles. Lucy lives in Cape Town with her husband and young son, where she writes on travel, food and beer. Her popular blog, www.brewmistress.co.za, documents the South African beer scene.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 11th edition – November 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 180 9 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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