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South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland 11 South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland Limpopo Kruger p412 National Park p395 Johannesburg North West & Gauteng Mpumalanga Province p323 p374 p435 Swaziland p495 Free KwaZulu- State Natal p305 p236 Northern Lesotho Cape p471 p446 Eastern Cape p177 Western Cape Cape Town p108 p52 James Bainbridge, Robert Balkovich, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Lucy Corne, Shawn Duthie, Anthony Ham, Ashley Harrell, Simon Richmond PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to South Africa, CAPE TOWN . 52 Stanford . 137 Lesotho & Swaziland . 6 Greyton . 140 South Africa, Lesotho Gansbaai . 140 & Swaziland Map . 8 WESTERN CAPE . 108 Cape Agulhas . 141 South Africa, Lesotho Winelands . 109 Arniston . 141 & Swaziland’s Top 25 . 10 Stellenbosch . 109 De Hoop Need to Know . 22 Franschhoek . 118 Nature Reserve . 142 First Time South Africa, Paarl . 123 Swellendam . 142 Lesotho & Swaziland . 24 Tulbagh . 127 Garden Route . 144 What’s New . 26 Robertson . 129 Mossel Bay . 145 If You Like . 27 McGregor . 130 George . 148 Month by Month . 30 The Overberg . 131 Montagu Itineraries . 32 Kogelberg & Outeniqua Passes . 149 Nature Reserve . 131 Activities . 38 Herolds Bay . 149 Betty’s Bay . 133 Travel with Children . 43 Victoria Bay . 150 Hermanus . 133 Wilderness . 150 Regions at a Glance . 46 KEREN SU / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / SU KEREN WOLF AVNI / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / AVNI WOLF UMKHUZE GAME RESERVE P277 ROGER DE LA HARPE / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / HARPE LA DE ROGER BATELEUR EAGLE P556 Contents Garden Route National Park West Coast Rhodes . 226 (Wilderness Section) . 152 & Swartland . 170 Eastern Karoo . 227 Buffalo Bay . 152 Darling . 170 Graaff-Reinet . 227 Knysna . 152 West Coast Camdeboo Knysna to National Park . 171 National Park . 230 Plettenberg Bay . 158 Langebaan . 171 Nieu Bethesda . 231 Plettenberg Bay Paternoster . 172 Mountain Zebra & Around . 158 Elands Bay . 173 National Park . 233 Route 62 . 161 Cederberg Cradock . 234 Montagu . 161 Wilderness Area . 173 Barrydale . 164 Citrusdal & Around . 174 KWAZULU-NATAL . 236 Calitzdorp . 164 Clanwilliam & Around . 175 Durban . 237 Oudtshoorn . 165 South Coast . 256 Central Karoo . 167 EASTERN CAPE . 177 Warner Beach . 256 Prince Albert . 167 Garden Route East . 180 Umzumbe Karoo National Park . 169 Garden Route National & Umtentweni . 257 Park (Tsitsikamma Oribi Gorge . 258 Section) . 180 Margate, Ramsgate Storms River . 182 & Southbroom . 259 Sunshine Coast . 184 North Coast . 260 St Francis Bay . 184 Umhlanga Rocks Jeffrey’s Bay . 185 & uMdloti Beach . 260 Port Elizabeth . 190 Ballito . 262 Addo Elephant KwaDukuza . 262 National Park . 197 Zululand . 263 Grahamstown . 203 Mtunzini . .. 263 Port Alfred . 206 Eshowe . 264 Amathole . 209 Ulundi . .. 266 East London . 210 Ithala Game Reserve . 268 Hogsback . 211 The Elephant Coast . 269 The Wild Coast . 213 Hluhluwe . 269 Chintsa . 214 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Morgan Bay Park . 270 & Kei Mouth . 217 iSimangaliso Coffee Bay . 218 Wetland Park . 272 Mthatha . 220 Tembe Elephant Park . 282 Mthatha to Ndumo Game Reserve . 282 Port St Johns . 221 The Midlands . 283 Port St Johns . 222 Pietermaritzburg . 283 Pondoland . 225 Drakensberg & Northeastern Highlands . 226 Ukhahlamba- Drakensberg Park . 287 KGALAGADI Lady Grey . 226 TRANSFRONTIER PARK P459 Southern Berg . 289 ON THE ROAD Central Berg . 294 Northern Berg . 297 © IMAGES GETTY / WAGNER MAXIMILIANE Battlefields . 299 Spioenkop Nature Reserve . .. 299 Ladysmith . 301 Dundee . 302 Isandlwana & Rorke’s Drift . 303 Blood River . 304 FREE STATE . 305 MAPUNGUBWE NATIONAL PARK P424 Bloemfontein . 308 Northern Free Dullstroom . .. 376 The Waterberg . 420 State . 313 Waterval Boven Soutpansberg . 422 Parys & Vredefort (Emgwenya) . 378 Louis Trichardt . 422 Dome Area . 313 Sabie . 379 Musina . 423 Eastern Highlands & Pilgrim’s Rest . 382 Southern Free State . 315 Mapungubwe Graskop . 383 National Park . 424 Harrismith . 315 Blyde River Canyon . 385 Venda . 425 Sterkfontein Dam Nature Reserve . 315 Eastern Lowveld . 386 Valley of the Olifants . 428 Golden Gate Highlands Hazyview . 387 National Park . 316 Nelspruit (Mbombela) . .. 388 Letaba Valley . .. 428 Clarens . 317 Komatipoort . 391 Tzaneen . 429 Bethlehem . .. 320 Barberton . 392 Modjadjiskloof . 431 Fouriesburg . 320 Phalaborwa . 432 Ficksburg . 321 KRUGER Hoedspruit . 433 Ladybrand . 322 NATIONAL PARK . 395 Gariep Dam Private NORTH WEST Nature Reserve . .. 322 Wildlife Reserves . 410 PROVINCE . 435 Philippolis . 322 Sabi Sand Rustenburg . 437 Game Reserve . 410 Sun City . 438 JOHANNESBURG Manyeleti Pilanesberg & GAUTENG . 323 Game Reserve . 411 National Park . 440 Timbavati Private Madikwe Johannesburg . 326 Game Reserve . 411 Soweto . 356 Game Reserve . 442 Pretoria . 362 Magaliesberg Range . 444 LIMPOPO . 412 Polokwane . 413 MPUMALANGA . 374 NORTHERN Bushveld . 417 CAPE . 446 Drakensberg Mokopane . 417 Escarpment . 376 Kimberley . 447 Bela-Bela . 419 Contents UNDERSTAND The Upper Karoo . 454 Mokhotlong . 486 South Africa, Lesotho Mokala National Park . 454 Sani Top . 487 & Swaziland Today . 516 Victoria West . .. 455 Central Highlands . 488 History . 518 The Kalahari . 445 Bokong Environment . 536 Kuruman . 455 Nature Reserve . .. 488 Wildlife & Habitat . 545 Witsand Katse Dam . .. 489 Nature Reserve . .. 456 Thaba-Tseka . 489 Music . 561 Upington . 456 Mohale Dam . 490 Food & Drink . 570 Kgalagadi Semonkong . 490 People & Culture . 577 Transfrontier Park . 459 Southern Lesotho . 490 Augrabies Falls Malealea . 491 National Park . 463 Mohale’s Hoek . 492 Riemvasmaak . 464 Quthing . 492 Namakwa & the Qacha’s Nek . 493 Hantam Karoo . 464 Sehlabathebe Springbok . 465 National Park . 493 SURVIVAL Port Nolloth . 466 GUIDE |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park . 467 SWAZILAND . 495 Namaqua Mbabane . 498 Safe Travel . 586 National Park . 468 Central Swaziland . 500 Directory A–Z . 589 Calvinia . 469 Ezulwini Valley . 500 Transport . 604 Sutherland . 470 Lobamba . 503 Mlilwane Health . 621 LESOTHO . 471 Wildlife Sanctuary . 504 Language . 626 Malkerns Valley . .. 505 Maseru . 475 Index . 635 Manzini . 507 Around Maseru . 480 Northwestern Map Legend . 646 Thaba-Bosiu . 480 Swaziland . 508 Roma . 480 Ngwenya . 508 Morija . 481 Malolotja Northwestern Nature Reserve . .. 509 Lesotho . 482 Komati Valley . 510 Teyateyaneng . 482 SPECIAL Northeastern Leribe . 483 Swaziland . 511 FEATURES Butha-Buthe . 483 Hlane Royal Wildlife Ts’ehlanyane National Park . 511 & Habitat . 545 National Park . 484 Mlawula Music . 561 Northeastern Nature Reserve . 512 Highlands . 485 Mbuluzi Menu Decoder . 574 Liphofung Cave Game Reserve . 513 Safe Travel . 586 Cultural & Mkhaya Historical Site . 485 Game Reserve . 513 Oxbow . 485 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 32 Itineraries ZIMBABWE MOZAMBIQUE BOTSWANA Limpopo Kruger ÷# National É Park NAMIBIA É Johannesburg Mpumalanga North West •# Province Gauteng SWAZILAND É Free # – State KwaZulu-Natal Northern LESOTHO Cape É Eastern AT L A N T I C Cape O C E A N I N D I A N Western O C E A N Cape CAPE #_•# Stellenbosch TOWN 2 WEEKS Kruger to Cape This trip combines wildlife watching with the Cape’s scenery and culture. Head directly east from Jo’burg’s OR Tambo International Airport to Kruger National Park, where more than 20,000 growly members of the Big Five (lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino) roam the bushveld. Staying in a bush camp or luxurious private reserve and going on self-drive safaris, guided drives and walks will keep you and your binoculars busy. From Kruger, head back to the bright lights of Jo’burg. Spend a night in the inner-city Maboneng precinct’s art hotel or hostels, experiencing Afro- globalisation and meeting local hipsters in the galleries and bars. Next, pick up a flight to Cape Town; alternatively, take a scenic overnight train ride in tourist class on Shosholoza Meyl’s trans-Karoo service (or the Blue Train or Rovos Rail from Pretoria). Relax and enjoy one of the world’s most beautiful cities, spending your days exploring the likes of Table Mountain and Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, and your nights dining in world-class restaurants and drinking in the ‘Tavern of the Seven Seas’. The Mother City is surrounded by beaches and vineyards; have lunch in winemaking Stellenbosch and wander the refined Cape Dutch student town’s lanes. 33 Northern Cape PLAN YOUR TRIP Prince Eastern Albert Cape •# É Western Swartberg Pass •# Meiringspoort •# Garden Route Cape Calitzdorp •# Pass É National Park É (Tsitsikamma Cogmanskloof Nature's Montagu Section) Stellenbosch Pass Valley •# É •#÷# •# •# •# É CAPE •# Wilderness •# #_ É •# Knysna TOWN Franschhoek Plettenberg IT É Bay I É False NERAR Bay Stanford AT L A N T I C •# •# É O C E A N Hermanus •# I Cape I N D I A N ES Agulhas O C E A N 2½ WEEKS Cape Cruise Beautiful scenery, excellent infrastructure and numerous attractions make this the South Africa of the glossy brochures. The route can be covered on public transport, but is perfect for a road trip in your own car. After a few days in Cape Town, fitting in historical and cultural sights such as the Bo-Kaap neighbourhood, Zeitz MOCAA Museum and Irma Stern Museum alongside the scenic Cape Peninsula, head out to the Winelands. Spend a night or two wine tasting in the vineyard-clad valleys of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. From Stellenbosch take Rte 44 for one of the world’s most beautiful coastal drives, to Hermanus, where you can watch southern right whales (June to December). Overnight or stop for lunch in the 19th-century village of Stanford, before making your way to Cape Agulhas, Africa’s southernmost point. Next,
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