BUYINGGUIDE

JULY

MARC LOBJOY/ALAMY MARC 2017 IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE

2 PROVENCE 53 SICILY 98 WASHINGTON 30 SOUTHWEST 54 104 NEW YORK 36 SPAIN 63 109 SPIRITS 44 NORTHEAST 67 ARGENTINA 112 BEER 49 LOMBARDY 71 CALIFORNIA 50 SOUTHERN ITALY 93 OREGON

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Les Vignobles Gueissard 2016 Cuvée G Rosé 91 (Bandol). With 45% Mourvèdre and 35% Cinsault this has turned into a highly favored and aromatic . It has great fruits and a rich texture that has a herbal edge. It is certainly a food rosé PROVENCE and with its up-front fruit, it could do with a few It’s summer time—and rosé reigns supreme. months to calm down. Drink from late 2017. The Winebow Group. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21 nother year has passed and prime rosé to hold, each representing in their own way the time, a k a summer, is back. This year, I’ve beauty of the wine within. And the labels: From Ravoire et Fils 2016 Domaine Mas Thérèse reviewed more rosés from Provence than clean and classically crafed to strikingly mod- 91 Rosé (Bandol). This is a rich wine that is full ever before—more than 250. The United ern and highly designed, there’s an aesthetic to of spicy aromatic fruit. It is classy and elegant while AStates remains the largest export market for please every personal preference. having some weight. Red fruits and orange zest are given a perfumed herbal edge from the Mourvèdre these delicious , as America continues to There continue to be some outstanding in the blend. This is real food wine, ready to drink. open bottles all summer long. Glasses are flled rosés from estates that have become famous. Vinecraf Distribution LLC. —R.V. by the pool, on the deck, at the beach or sim- What is encouraging this year—maybe it’s to abv: 13% Price: $23 ply while lounging at home, as do with that extra bit of color— the wine transports you to the is that at all price points, there Château la Vivonne 2016 Rosé (Bandol). This Bandol, from an estate split between French Riviera no matter where At all price points, are wines of real character, with 89 Bandol and Côtes de Provence, is full of rich fruit. you actually are. there are wines of fruit and acidity happily in bal- Perfumed and textured, it is spicy, tangy with tanger- The wines from 2016 are real character, with ance. ines and full of red-berry fruits. The wine has a ripe foral afertaste. Drink now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. among the best I’ve tasted. There fruit and acidity So here’s to summer and it’s seems to be even more fruit than perfect wine partner, rosé. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 usual in these crisp, dry rosés. happily in balance. Although Provence is the Hecht & Bannier 2015 Rosé (Bandol). Lightly And, I am delighted to report, star of this issue’s Buying Guide, 88 orange pink in color, this ripe wine has the there seems to be just a bit more we have hundreds of additional attractive perfumed character of Mourvèdre that color. While last year it seemed producers were reviews from around the globe: red wines, white dominates the blend. It has ripe orange and spice vying to see how near-white their rosés could wines, sparklers and, yes, even more rosés from favors as well as red-currant fruitiness. With its structure, the wine is full, ripe and could well age be, this year I found an attractive pale-pink the Old World and the New. And, as always, be further. Drink now and until 2019. Frederick Wild- color dancing through nearly all the wines. sure to check out our complete database, with man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. I’ve also seen some breathtaking packaging. thousands more reviews at your fngertips, at abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Square bottles, blue bottles, bulbous bottles, winemag.com/ratings bottles that are so heavy they need two hands Cheers! —Roger Voss COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE

Château Vignelaure 2016 Rosé (Coteaux 94 d’Aix-en-Provence). This is one of the clas- and a fne perfumed character. It is has ripe apri- sics among Provence rosés. Produced from organi- BANDOL cot and pineapple fruits along with a strong pepper cally grown grapes and coming from an impressive character. The mineral texture and fne acidity make red-wine producing estate east of Aix-en-Provence, Chateau de Pibarnon 2016 Rosé (Bandol). this a great food wine. Syngery Fine Wines. —R.V. the wine is structured and ageworthy with its blend 93 The wine is rich—a beautiful blend domi- abv: 13.5% Price: $27 that includes Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich and full of nated by Bandol’s own Mourvèdre. The grapes gives red fruits, the wine should be drunk from late 2017. both structure and a perfumed character to this ripe Château Vannières 2014 La Patience de Van- Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. full wine. With acidity and layers of red fruits, it is 92 nières Rosé (Bandol). This wood-aged wine —R.V. worth aging. Drink from 2018. Skurnik Wines, Inc. is a fascinating example of how rosé can age. It is abv: 13% Price: $20 Cellar Selection. —R.V. certainly mature and has lost its crisp fruitiness. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 But it has gained toast, a smooth rich texture and Château de Calavon 2016 Rosé (Coteaux plenty of spice. It’s obviously a food wine, ready to 92 d’Aix-en-Provence). The Audibert family Domaines Ott 2016 Château Romassan Rosé drink now. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —R.V. estate, close to beautiful Aix-en-Provence, is now 93 (Bandol). Dominated by the local Mourvèdre abv: 14.5% Price: $NA run organically. The wine, rich and with delicious grapes, this is a ripe and complex wine. Its acidity is ripe fruits, is full in the mouth, packed with red- integrated with rich yellow fruits, spice and perfume. Château Vannières 2016 Rosé (Bandol). With berry favors that are cut with red currants and The wine is foral, poised and very stylish. Drink from 91 its proportion of Mourvèdre in the blend, this lemon zest. It is a very fne wine, ready now. Wey- late 2017. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. is a ripe and perfumed wine. It has a rich sumptuous gandt-Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $52 feel with ripe strawberry and crisper red currants. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 The wine is generous and ready to drink. H. Mercer Château Val d’Arenc 2016 Rosé (Bandol). Wine & Spirit Imports. —R.V. 92 The high proportion of Mourvèdre (80%) in abv: 13.5% Price: $NA this Sénéclauze family wine gives it great richness Continued on page 18

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2017 BUYINGGUIDE

cherry fruit, with distinct leather and black pepper mocha scents meet cedar and herb in this dense, 25% Syrah. Velvety in texture, it ofers a wealth of accents. —V.B. full-bodied wine. Spicy acidity keeps it fresh on meat, dust and chocolate favors. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $50 the palate, with a zing of clove, cinnamon and black abv: 14.5% Price: $40 pepper. —V.B. Fortress 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma abv: 14.8% Price: $90 Kenwood 2012 Artist Series Cabernet Sauvi- 91 County). This wine is a steal for its quality— 90 gnon (Sonoma County). Woody, herbal and well-rounded, expressive and complemented with White Rock Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Cab- integrated in oak and tannin, this wine comes from additions of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah 91 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Blackberry, grapes grown in both Sonoma Valley estate vine- and Merlot. Cherry and vanilla favors predomi- cherry and plum notes form this estate wine’s fruity yards and sites in Alexander and Knights valleys. nate, accented with cedar and tobacco, the texture core, complemented by an earthy thread of cedar, Red currant, graphite and clove favors highlight its remaining sof and smooth. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. pencil and tobacco. Dry, frm tannins give it a struc- medium-bodied density. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ture that takes time to unwind, the fnish marked by abv: 14.5% Price: $75 powerful grace and spicy clove. —V.B. Foxen 7200 2014 Los Potreros Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.7% Price: $65 Laird 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- 91 vignon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). 90 ley). Juicy, spicy and red-fruit dominated, Hearty foral-tinged black-currant aromas and Amici 2013 Missouri Hopper Vineyard Caber- this wine is broad-shouldered and moderately bal- warm cocoa and licorice notes show on the nose 90 net Sauvignon (Oakville). Sofly structured anced, with a powerful hit of tannin on the fnish. of this vineyard blend from the eastern Santa Ynez and boldly ripe, this 100% varietal wine from the Sweet tobacco and vanilla favors crescendo on the Valley. Bright acidity carries blackberry, pepper and famous site shows strong red cherry and raspberry fnish. —V.B. roasting herb favors on the palate. —M.K. fruit wrapped in swathes of cinnamon and clove. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 abv: 14.8% Price: $72 Full bodied and frm in tannins, it delivers chocolate and tobacco accents to complement the fruit. —V.B. Laird 2013 Mast Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Francis Coppola 2013 Stuhlmuller Vineyard abv: 15.3% Price: $135 90 (Napa Valley). This vineyard designate 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). from Yountville is packed with compact tannin Bright sparks of red currant, black cherry and cassis AuburnJames 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon and rich oak yet nicely balanced by crisp ranberry, provide this full-bodied wine with a juicy, rounded 90 (Napa Valley). A big-boned wine with a cherry and clove favors. Light black-pepper notes personality. Bold tannins frame its dense layers juicy midpalate, this round, plush expression of the add seasoning. —V.B. of fruit, complemented by sultry, gamy meat and variety ofers welcome layers of dark cherry, rasp- abv: 14.8% Price: $80 smoke accents. —V.B. berry and plum nicely accentuated with clove and abv: 14.5% Price: $54 sage. —V.B. Moniker 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- abv: 14.9% Price: $75 90 docino County). For full review see page 15. Goldschmidt 2013 Game Ranch Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 91 vignon (Oakville). This 100% varietal wine is Brander 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Los Oli- spicy and succulent, with a touch of oak reduction 90 vos District). Fresh-pressed boysenberry Rutherford Hill 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon on the nose that resolves as it opens. Big boned, it scents meet lava rock and slate minerality on the 90 (Napa Valley). Grippy with tannin and frm tastes dark cherry- and plum-driven, spiked with nose of this appellation blend from Fred Brander. structure, this warm-vintage wine shows rich red cinnamon and black pepper. —V.B. There’s a finty earthiness to the palate, with cherry, currant and spicy clove favors. Tinged with abv: 14.2% Price: $89 pressed plum favors and a strong graphite streak. a touch of reduction, it gains depth and mouthfeel It’s relatively light in body, making it a perfect food from its prominent oak. —V.B. Goldschmidt 2013 Yoeman Vineyard Caber- wine. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 91 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Slightly abv: 13.5% Price: $28 reduced and showing plenty of barrel imprint, this Sequoia Grove 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard designate is bold and grippy, its sof entry Doren 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma 90 (Napa Valley). Rich and robust with berry marked by clove spice and cigar. The fruit is a com- 90 Valley). Blackberry and chocolate favors and currant fruit, this wine is rounded and full- bination of plum and dark cherry, subtly wrapped in intertwine nicely in this sof, round and bright red bodied, with tannic weight and spicy layers of vanilla toast. —V.B. from a tiny site in the appellation. Lightly spiced toasted oak. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $75 with clove and cedar, it strikes a balance between abv: 14.8% Price: $38 fruit and tension, making it a food-friendly option Ideology 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon that won’t overpower in the glass. —V.B. Summers 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 91 (Napa Valley). Floral aromas greet the nose abv: 13.9% Price: $39 90 (Calistoga). Juicy black fruit, tobacco, tar before exuberant, juicy dark cherry fruit comes into and leather notes provide a muscular edge to this play in this full-bodied red. Tight-grained tannins Duckhorn 2013 Patzimaro Vineyard Caber- medium-bodied wine, which is shy on fruit favor lend strength and structure beneath a backdrop of 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Subtle aro- but bold with structure and complex, gravelly, dusty cedar and dried herb favors. —V.B. mas vie for a place amidst bold swathes of toasted tannin. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $150 oak and leather in this concentrated, full-bodied abv: 14.2% Price: $65 wine. Plum and forest foor fll out the midpalate, Patel 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- striking a balance between ripe fruit and savory sea- The Heavy 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 91 ley). Sof, billowy tannins buoy this wine’s sonings. —V.B. 90 Valley). As densely built as its name sug- dense red fruit, accented with dried herb, cedar and abv: 14.5% Price: $95 gests, this wine is grippy with black fruit and pencil shaving favors. Ripe and full bodied, its oak robust tannin, its full-bodied concentration laced is integrated and quiet. —V.B. Ideology 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa with integrated oak. Brooding blackberry and black abv: 14.9% Price: $125 90 Valley). Cherry cordial rises to the fore of cherry dominate the midpalate, with a one-two this rich, thick and full-bodied red blended with punch of chocolate and tobacco, fnishing with clove Pride Mountain 2013 Vintner Select Cuvée and pepper spice. —V.B. 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dusty abv: 14.5% Price: $65

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Space Cowboy 2014 Red (Napa Valley). Hindsight 2014 20/20 (Napa Valley). Juicy Ascension Cellars 2014 Trinity (Paso Robles). 90 This round, approachable and likable wine 88 red fruit defnes this blend of 32% Caber- 87 The nose of this blend of 75% Grenache, blends 83% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller net Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 15% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre is jubilant yet not amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. 18% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. Supportive tan- overly complex, with red cherry, thyme and pep- Bright cherry and plum notes meet generous leather nins accent its cedar, oak and raisin notes. —V.B. per notes. The palate is equally yielding, with fruit and tobacco favors, fnding a nice balance between abv: 14.5% Price: $35 punch and bubblegum favors enhanced with herbal fruit and spice. —V.B. spice. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $55 Le Vigne 2014 Cuore Della Vigna (Paso abv: 14% Price: $56 88 Robles). This Super Tuscan-style blend The Big Easy 2014 Red (Santa Barbara named “heart of the vineyard” shows baked black Laird 2013 Jillian’s Blend (Napa Valley). This 89 County). The nose of this New Orleans- raspberry, black plum, thyme and bay leaf on the 87 blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% inspired blend is juicy and fruit forward, with nose. It’s light in body on the energetic and easygo- Syrah and smaller amounts of Merlot, Malbec and blackberry jam, black plum and a light licorice ing palate, with a tangy raspberry snap. —M.K. Petit Verdot shows prominent black cherry, cedar scents. It’s sof and full on the palate, with Concord abv: 14.2% Price: $42 and licorice favors, along with a streak of tobacco. grape favors and nicely polished tannins. A crowd- Full bodied and moderate in acidity, it fnishes sim- pleaser. —M.K. Le Vigne 2014 Nikiara (Paso Robles). This ply. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $35 88 is one of the Fillippini family winery’s best abv: 14.8% Price: $48 barrel blends, comprised of 71% Cabernet Sau- Beaulieu Vineyard 2013 Maestro Collection vignon, 14% Malbec, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Robert Renzoni 2013 Big Fred’s Red (Tem- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Napa Valley). Verdot. The nose shows Concord grape, wisteria 87 ecula Valley). The nose of this blend is quite This blends 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% and black licorice aromas, while the palate doubles intriguing, full of aromatic herbs like spearmint, Syrah to create a juicy expression of both varieties. down on the licorice spice, with blueberry fruit, nettle and bay leaf set against a fruity berry back- Cassis, vanilla and blackberry notes show both aro- char and pepper in the background. —M.K. drop. Jammy baked plum fruit meets that curious matically and in favor, as the wine builds in depth abv: 14.4% Price: $45 herbal spice on the palate, keeping it interesting and concentration. —V.B. through the fnish. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $55 Morgan 2015 Cotes du Crow’s (Happy Canyon abv: 13.9% Price: $32 88 of Santa Barbara). Consistently among the Cottonwood Canyon 2012 Bistro Red (Santa best $20-and-under wines each vintage, this blend Rutherford Ranch 2013 Rhiannon (Napa Val- 88 Maria Valley). Veteran vintner Norman Beko of 52% Grenache, 44% Syrah and 4% Tempranillo 87 ley). This is a sof, simple, red fruit-driven blends 70% Pinot Noir with 30% Syrah to deliver from vintner Dan Lee delivers plump boysenberry, blend of four Bordeaux varieties, the fruit comple- wild berry, bay leaf, wet slate and sagebrush aromas plum, baking spice and rosemary scents on the nose. mented by a twist of cedar and mint. —V.B. in this bottling. The palate takes all those compo- The palate is dry and herbal yet bright with acidity, abv: 13.5% Price: $42 nents and adds baked cranberry and thyme, making full of thyme and sagebrush notes against a back- for an easily quafable house wine. —M.K. drop of plum fruit. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Wellington 2013 Victory Reserve (Sonoma abv: 15.3% Price: $38 abv: 14.2% Price: $18 87 County). Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec make up the bulk of this blend, which is thick with Demetria 2014 Cuvée Constantine (Santa Sarah’s Vineyard 2013 Madonne Estate dusty mocha and blackberry jam favors. Medium 88 Ynez Valley). Cola and sof red raspberry 88 (Santa Clara Valley). Floral scents strike the bodied, it shows its crisp acidity on the fnish. —V.B. scents show on the nose of this blend of 58% nose with ferocity in this blend of 70% Grenache, abv: 14.3% Price: $60 Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 17% Syrah. It’s easy- 12% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre, 6% Carignane and 4% drinking and simple, with red fruit, white pepper Counoise, meeting richer aromas of blackberry, can- Ampelos 2013 Syrache Ampelos Vineyard and asphalt hints. A great, light, quafable red for a died grape and asphalt. Concord grape favors carry 86 Syrah-Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). This blend warm day. —M.K. into the palate, with candied violet and a light bit of of 69% Syrah and 31% Grenache is smoky and oaky, abv: 14.4% Price: $47 sweet tobacco. —M.K. with a strong charred meat favor that obscures its abv: 14.4% Price: $32 lightly ripe strawberry fruit. The fnish is simple Derby 2012 Project Espana Red Derby Vine- and light. —V.B. 88 yard (Paso Robles). Intriguing red currant, Sculpterra 2014 Maquette (Paso Robles). abv: 14.2% Price: $28 elderberry, pepper and thyme aromas show in this 88 Blackberry, rose petal and espresso com- blend of 63% Tempranillo, 15% Grenache, 14% bine for a relatively light aromatic profle in this Devil’s Advocate 2014 One Hundred Per- Carignane and 8% Graciano that was aged in both blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet 86 cent (Paso Robles). Fresh juice aromas and French and American oak. The palate ofers smoke, Franc and 20% Merlot. A cedar favor dominates caramelized blackberry scents combine with dark leather, sagebrush and thyme touches, bolstering its the palate, lending structure and depth to black- chocolate and a little lavender in this blend of 44% simple red fruit base. —M.K. berry fruit and black pepper spice. —M.K. Petite Sirah, 38% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre and 8% abv: 14% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Grenache. Sof, thick and sticky on the palate, it shows tangy plum skin and tart boysenberry favors, Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2013 Sua Sponte Whalebone 2013 Bob Wine (Paso Robles). with sharp and strong acidity. —M.K. 88 (Napa Valley). This small-production wine 88 This blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, abv: 14.8% Price: $22 from the Lake County-based producer is made 30% Merlot and 7% Petit Sirah is fun yet serious, mostly of Petit Verdot, with 32% Cabernet Franc, with roast beef, asphalt, dried herbs and elderberry Goyette 2013 Meritage (Sonoma County). 16% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Its con- aromas. Its tannins are frm and clinging, making 86 Smoky oak and grippy tannin support rich centrated blackberry fruit is accented with smoky the palate quite dry, with more dark fruit and char red and black fruit in this Bordeaux-inspired blend, oak and dusty tannin. —V.B. elements. —M.K. which ofers moderate acidity and structure. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 abv: 14.1% Price: $34 abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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