a place in history BIBLIOGRAPHY Saunders, E. J, 1960, Catwg Sant and the Borough Council/Arthur Wright collection. 1975, The Gelligaer Story, Gelligaer Urban Ancient Parish of Gelligaer, Peter Williams – • Others – Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn Partnership District Council and Gelligaer Council. Andrewartha C, 2004, Roman Gelligaer, Thomas DG, 1969, The Gelligaer Story, in Page 10 • Main image from Old Gelligaer in pages 3-8 in Gelligaer Volume XIV, Gelligaer Volume VI, Gelligaer Historical Photographs by Maldwyn Griffiths & Richard Gelligaer Historical Society Society Herold. • Other – Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn Partnership and Gelligaer Community Council. Brewer R, 2010, Gelligaer Roman Fort, Thomas DG, 1973, The Harp, pgs 13- 14 in Gelligaer Volume X, Gelligaer Historical Society Gelligaer and Pen-y-Bryn Partnership Page 11 • Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn Partnership and Gelligaer Community Council Whittle E, 1992, A Guide to Ancient and and Gelligaer Community Council. Historic – and ; HMSO Broomfield S, 1982, The Penallta ‘Stay-Down Page 12 • Clockwise • Historic maps 1875 and Strike’, Feb 1948, pages 27-30 in Gelligaer Williams VA, 1968, The Opening of the Lewis’ 1969 © and database right Crown copyright Volume XII, Gelligaer Historical Society School, pgs 59-60, in Gelligaer Volume V, and Landmark Information Group Ltd. All rights Gelligaer Historical Society Evans E, 2005, Excavations at Dan Y Gaer reserved, 2010. • Photographs from Old and Gelligaer 2004, pgs 45-46 in Gelligaer Gelligaer in Photographs by Maldwyn Griffiths IMAGE CREDITS Volume XV, Gelligaer Historical Society & Richard Herold. Cover • All Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn Howells R, 2006, Searching for the Silures; Page 13 • Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn Partnership Partnership and Gelligaer Community Council The History Press and Gelligaer Community Council. except Roihi stone Crown copyright (2010) © Page 14 • Aerial image. Cities Revealed Hughes I, 2009, In the Footsteps of Saint Visit Wales, and Man with cow – Old Gelligaer Aerial photography The GeoInformation® Catwg, pages 57-60 in Gelligaer Volume in Photographs by Maldwyn Griffiths & Richard © Group, 2010. XVII, Gelligaer Historical Society Herold. Jones J, 2003, Gelligaer and Merthyr Introduction • Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Common; Morton Priory Press Partnership and Gelligaer Community Council. With thanks to Gelligaer Historical Society and Jones WRD, 1966, The Norman English Page 1 • Main picture – County Influence upon , pgs 17-27 all those who contributed images (as credited). Borough Council. • Other – Gelligaer & in Gelligaer Volume III, Gelligaer Published by Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn Pen-y-Bryn Partnership and Gelligaer Historical Society Partnership and Gelligaer Community Council. Community Council. Kember, J, 2004, The Inns of the Village Words: Ruth Taylor-Davies Page 2 • Main image Crown copyright: of Gelligaer and their inhabitants in the © Editor: Kim Colebrook RCAHMW. • Others – Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn 1600’s, 1700’s and 1800’s pages 37-48 Designer: Maria Dispirito Partnership and Gelligaer Community Council. in Gelligaer Volume XIV, Gelligaer Historical Society Page 3 • © Crown copyright (2010) Visit Wales. IMAGES Meyrick H, The Gelligaer Coalfield and its Right • Landscape view from Church tower. Pioneers: pages 11-14 in Gelligaer Volume XI, Page 4 • Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn Partnership Gelligaer Historical Society and Gelligaer Community Council. Cover left to right: Top row Mills D, 2007, The Norman Church: Not Just Page 5/6 • Main image © Crown copyright: • Harp Inn sign. at Gelligaer, pages 77-79, in Gelligaer RCAHMW. • Others – Gelligaer & Pen-y-Bryn • Internal feature, St Catwg's Church. Volume XVI, Gelligaer Historical Society Partnership and Gelligaer Community Council. • Rural life. Page 7 • Images from Caerphilly County Olding F, 2010, Gelligaer Common – an Middle row Borough Council except old photo, Old Archaeological Surprise; pg 14-18 `in • Ray Norman, owner of the fort site. Gelligaer in Photographs by Maldwyn Griffiths Heritage in Wales, No 46, Cadw • Sunburst Mosaic, village centre. & Richard Herold. Pearson A, 2004, Archaeological Excavations • St Catwg's Church. of the First Roman Fort at Gelligaer and its Page 8 • Images from Old Gelligaer in Bottom row Environs: an interim note, pages 59-62 in Photographs by Maldwyn Griffiths & • Horeb Chapel sign. Gelligaer Volume XIV, Gelligaer Historical Richard Herold. • Group of miners at Penallta Colliery. Society Page 9 • Clockwise • Caerphilly County • Lewis' School memorial. www.romangelligaer.org Introduction

Whilst Gelligaer is probably most celebrated for its Roman Prehistoric Past 1 heritage, the village and the area that surrounds it have The coming of Rome 2 been important throughout human occupation. Here you’ll also find Bronze Age burials, Norman churches, Medieval Celtic Stones & Christian Saints 3 settlements, ancient pastures, Civil War strongholds, some Welsh War Lords and Norman Knights 4 of the earliest educational provision in Wales, evidence of the rise of nonconformity, industry and even a post WWII Faith Food & Felons 5 housing boom. This publication is intended to help you place Gelligaer’s wonderful Roman heritage firmly within Family Fortunes 7 this rich timeframe. Seeds of Change 8 Why did all this happen around here? The key to Lots to Learn 9 Gelligaer’s importance is in its location. For millennia people have recognised its strategic, spiritual and Village Life 10 nurturing potential. The area resonates with heritage, and Extraction & Expansion 11 you cannot help but feel that Gelligaer has well and truly earned a place in history. Gelligaer Still Fighting 13 The Prehistoric Past

The earliest people to leave us clues of their existence within the landscape were Bronze Age settlers, who came to the area around 4000 years ago. The climate at the time was quite mild, and the landscape was ideal for supporting their pastoral way of life. They were a spiritual people who buried their leaders in stone vaults or ‘cists’ such as Carn Bugail, up on the highest ridges of Gelligaer Common. We are continuing to learn more about where and how these people lived – for instance, recent archaeological exploration at Llancaiach Fawr has uncovered what is believed to be a Bronze Age settlement. About 500 years later, a new influx of people known as the Beaker Folk called Gelligaer home. They got their name from their distinctive pottery vessels. A tomb from this period was found in the yard of Llancaiach Isaf Farm which contained a beaker, some bronze ornaments and the remains of a small child. Whilst there are no Iron Age hillforts around Gelligaer, it seems likely from objects found locally that farming continued in the area. Due to the worsening climate, it is likely that the upland areas of south Wales were used as seasonal summer pastures. Place names such as Llwyngoleu (The Grove of Light), and mysterious objects such as the Maen Cattwg cup-marked

stone hint at the deeply spiritual, Top • Maen Cattwg Stone. sophisticated and complex peoples that Left • Silure axe. existed here for millennia prior to the coming of Rome. If you know where to look (and have a good map), relics of our prehistoric past are still visible in the landscape. Why not take a trip back in time and explore them for yourself? 1 The Coming of Rome

By the time the Romans arrived, the Baths just south of the Fort and a Iron Age people in Wales had formed in number of cremation burials close to to distinct and organised tribes. They the Roman roadways. had road networks, traded with other As a frontier stronghold, Gelligaer was tribes and kept slaves. The women of one of a string of forts along a major these tribes were well respected and Roman road from Cardiff to Brecon. often held high positions. The remains of this Roman highway One of the most fierce of these tribes can still be picked out on the Common, was the Silures. Known as excellent as can a series of practice camps – horsemen, the Silures used chariots in sites where Roman soldiers would fine battle and were notorious for tune their skills at building ‘ditch and employing guerrilla tactics. Their bank’ palisade topped defences. territory covered all of south east No one can be 100% sure when the Wales, and geographically Gelligaer lay Roman army arrived or left Gelligaer, at the centre. Little wonder then that but it seems likely that the stone fort this place was chosen by the Romans was occupied initially from around as a location for a frontier fort. Gelligaer through on–site panels and a 111AD to 130AD and then again at the self guided ‘walk and clue trail’ which But there’s more to Roman Gelligaer end of the 3rd/early 4th centuries. can be downloaded at than just the stone fort. As well as an More detail regarding the Roman Fort www.romangelligaer.org; so off you go, earlier wooden fort (in fields just to the can be found in the authoritative guide quick march! north of the stone one) excavations to the Roman Fort by Richard Brewer. uncovered a parade ground in the Top • Roman practice camps garden of the Old Rectory, a pottery Today you can roam with the Romans Gelligaer Common. Right • Roman statue kiln in the Church cemetery, a Roman and explore the story of Roman head, found locally. 2 Celtic Stones and Christian Saints

Although some Roman influences Nia – Froich (Champion of the Heather) was a daughter of King Brychan and remained, this period saw a revival of showing the influence of the Irish in legend says that in her younger days local Celtic culture. It also saw the southern Wales during this time. she and her future husband Gwynllyw introduction and expansion of Legend has it that the stone leans came across and some of Christianity. It is likely that most of the because locals once tried to dig under his companions at Carn Bugail. people lived on the higher ground it in search of treasure, but they were Her son Catwg (aka Cadog) went on to rather than down in the densely prevented from finishing the job by a become an important Celtic saint in the wooded valley floors. So not terrible storm. surprisingly, echoes of this time can be 6th century AD. He established found on the Common. Another local monument of the period churches in Wales (including one at – the Tegernacus Stone – is now Gelligaer), and notably one in Near Carn Bugail stands a sloping housed in the National Museum of (Ile de Cado), where he fought limestone monument known locally as Wales. Its Latin inscription translates as with the Devil, leaving behind his the ROIHI stone. It once had an ‘Here lies Tegernacus, son of Martius’. footprint in the stone. inscription which said ‘TES(F) ROIHI’, dating to the late 6th/early 7th The spread of Christianity in the Post St. Catwg and his monks are said to century. It is sited close to the Roman Roman era led to it being called the have used the Roman road as an road and was once surrounded by a ‘Age of the Saints’, and Gelligaer has its important highway for their missionary small enclosure. This seems to suggest fair share of saintly links. The remains journeys. It’s a fascinating thought that it marks a grave, and may be a of Capel Gwladys – a 6th century that when you are walking around throw back to the Roman custom of religious enclosure on the Common – Gelligaer, you are following in the burying the dead near roadways. are still clearly visible. An inscribed footsteps of a Saint. Another theory states that it stone from Capel Gwladys is preserved commemorates an Irish warrior within Gelligaer Parish Church. Gwladys • Roihi Stone. 3 Welsh War Lords and Norman Knights

By the 8th century, the Kingdom of Scott immortalised the battle thus… based at the traditional stronghold of Morgannwg had been established. The ‘The sun arose and ’s wave Twyn y Castell. He had held high office kingdom was divided for administrative with crimson glows’. in the County until Edward II robbed purposes and Gelligaer became part of In 1158 it was the Welsh who were on him of his status and again deprived the Senghenydd , later the the attack, as local Chief Ivor Bach the locals of many of their rights. As a Lordship of Senghenydd. broke in to Cardiff Castle. He captured result, in 1316 Llywelyn is said to have raised an army of 10,000 men and he The relative peace of post Roman the Earl of Gloucester and his family, Gelligaer came to an abrupt halt holding them to ransom in exchange overran Glamorgan before being following the Norman invasion of 1066. for the restoration of local people’s pushed back to Gelligaer. He was William the Conqueror decided not to rights. One of his sons, Gruffudd, was captured and sent to the Tower with take Wales for himself and instead left less of a rebel and married the Earl’s his wife and children. On his release he his Marcher Lords (based on the Welsh illegitimate daughter. His other son returned to the area, only to be borders) to take whatever lands they Cadwallon was based at Twyn y Castell. executed by Hugh le Despenser, the could. Whilst much of Morgannwg fell He was an ally of King John. However, Lord of Glamorgan. their relationship changed and the King to Lord Fitzhamon, the area around This bloody period in Gelligaer’s history turned on him, taking two of his sons Gelligaer retained its native chieftains. can still be traced in place names, but as ‘savage revenge’. In 1094 the Normans attacked if you go exploring, watch out for those Gelligaer. This resulted in a bloody The next major local revolt was led by naughty Normans! battle in which a number of important Llywelyn Bren, a descendent of the Norman lords were killed. Sir Walter Lords of Senghenydd, who was also • St Catwg's Church. 4 Faith, Food and Felons

Ordinary life in the later medieval of Refuge. Perhaps the people here Edward III circa 1376 was to place period revolved around three things, appreciated the benefits of being away people in stocks, a very public and the Church, making a living, and from the troubles further south? humiliating penalty indeed. The staying within the law. Gelligaer Stocks were in place outside Other farms closer to the village have the Church until relatively recently. To their origins around this period, Evidence of how people eked out an find out their fate, read on. existence on the land is shown by the including the ones at Top Hill, remains of platform houses up on the Llancaiach Fawr and Gelliargwellt. Land ownership equalled power in Common. The name for these dwellings These lower homesteads would have medieval times, and as such, land comes from the fact that they were been easier to farm and more fertile. boundaries were very carefully recorded, using features such as rivers, built in to the hillsides, with the back In any case the people living off the standing stones and even trees as ends dug in to the bank at the rear, land would have been subject to local boundary markers. It is said that the whilst the resulting soil was used to laws and government. This included boundaries of the Lordship of create a level platform of ground at paying taxes (the “toll of the pix”), and Senghenydd were marked once a year the front. The houses were about 60 fines following periods of revolt. by a ceremony known as Beating the feet long by 30 feet wide. Excavations Domestic and minor misdemeanours in Boundary. This entailed walking around of one such settlement on the slopes the Lordship of Senghenydd were dealt the various boundary markers, and close to Carn Bugail (led by Lady Aileen with in a lower court, whilst more literally whipping a young boy at each Fox in 1938) found pottery and major crimes were considered at a one… in order that he would always be evidence of metal working. It seems County level. Guilty parties faced a able to remember where the borders lay! that the occupants were continuing range of sentences depending on their Ceremonies, traditions and superstitions the ancient tradition of pastoral crime, and could have all their were essential to local life, and no farming in the area. Interestingly this possessions seized and sold. A new where was this more obvious than in area is known as Dinas Noddfa – City form of punishment introduced by people’s religious beliefs. 5 The Church of St Catwg in Gelligaer salary for a craftsman at the time), took its current form when it was making it one of the richest hill rebuilt in stone in the 13th century. parishes in the . Gelligaer parish was wealthy and St Catwg’s has become a storehouse important enough to have a Rector as for a number of remarkable artefacts amongst the stones is reputed to be far back as Norman times, and in 1366 including the 10th century stone from the burial of a Gypsy Queen, quite an the post was held by a man named Capel Gwladys which is inscribed with unusual find in an Anglican graveyard. Henry de Staunton. The inside of the a cross, and of course, the ancient Church would originally have been Amazingly St Catwg’s Church has village stocks! It is also home to a brightly painted, with scenes from the remained at the heart of the village for memorial to Edward Lewis, who Bible in order to share the gospels with over 700 years and still has an active bequeathed funds to set up the first the mainly illiterate congregation. The congregation. The Church is open to permanent local school. The Lewis’ outside would have been lime-washed the public on Saturday mornings as benefaction boards are also there and to heighten its visibility in the well as for services on Sundays and in they make captivating reading, but more landscape. The original bells were one the week, so why not pop in and of Lewis later... Another interesting of six sets donated by Jasper Tudor to immerse yourself in centuries of local feature is the wood and glass screen to local churches. They were a gift to life, tradition and worship. the Lady Chapel which was donated by thank the people of Glamorgan for David Morgan who was married here in supporting his nephew, the young Clockwise from top left • Platform Houses, 1868. He founded a department store Gelligaer Common. • William Greenhill and Henry Tudor (Henry VII) in his bid to which was a main stay of Cardiff’s Charles Edwards pose in the parish stocks for become King. By the time of the shopping centre for 125 years, until it a travelling photographer in this turn of the reformation, when Henry VIII set up finally closed in 2005. century photograph. • Internal feature, his own Church, Gelligaer was worth St Catwg's Church. • David Morgan Screen, £13 10s per annum (well over a year’s The churchyard is fascinating too, and St Catwg's Church. 6 Family Fortunes

The Acts of Union (1536-1542) brought of High Sheriff of Glamorgan. However, than the established Church. Notably, Wales under English law, and it was his grandson (also named John Wesley (founder of the Methodist importantly saw the abolishment of Edward and also High Sheriff) who was movement) is known to have preached ‘gavelkind’. This was a Welsh tradition to play an important role in the Civil a sermon in Gelligaer on May 25th whereby all siblings inherited a share War. Originally a Royalist, he 1744. A wonderfully simple reminder of of their parents’ estate. Whilst fair, this entertained King Charles I during a the heydays of nonconformity is Horeb led to parcels of land and wealth being recruitment drive in Wales. However, Chapel (1848) which lies at the heart ever more diluted. Under English law, being a canny man, Edward was quick of the old Village of Gelligaer. the estate passed to the oldest son. to change his allegiance to the The Pritchards continued to be an This resulted in a smaller number of Parlimentarians when it became obvious important family within the locality for wealthy land owning individuals. Over that the King was losing support. many years. More recently Llancaiach a number of generations, this led to the Cromwell (leader of the Parlimentarian Fawr passed in to public ownership. It establishment of a few powerful forces) rewarded Edward’s new found ‘leading families’ within the new puritan sympathies with the role of is now a prize winning living history County of Glamorgan. In the Gelligaer Governor of Cardiff Castle. Pritchard museum where visitors can enjoy area, the most important families were also played an important role in the meeting characters from Edward the Thomas’s, the Lewis’s and the Battle of St Fagan’s in 1648. Pritchard’s household on the eve of the Pritchards, each of which built houses King’s visit. It’s the ideal place to get a It is said that it was Edward Pritchard befitting their status. real feel for life during the Civil War, so who (with his reinvigorated religious why not go along? Just be sure not to Probably the most celebrated of these tendencies) first brought nonconformity loose your head! families are the Pritchards. Such was to the area, establishing a Baptist their success that by 1599 Edward congregation at his home. In time, Clockwise from top left • Llancaiach Fawr. Pritchard had risen to the lofty status nonconformity became more popular • Llanaciach Fawr - Stewards. • Horeb Chapel. 7 Seeds of Change Unlike many Valleys communities, Gelligaer retained its rural look and feel until relatively recently. In the late 19th century agriculture still dominated Gelligaer’s lowland whilst the Commoners continued to exercise their rights on the higher ground. Farming families were well established, such as the Stradlings of Gelliargwellt who worked the same 300 acres of land for hundreds of years until the early 19th century. Later still, photographs from the 1930’s show characters such as William ‘Greenhill’ of Green Hill Farm taking a calf to Nelson Cattle Market by cart. Whilst urbanisation finally caught up with the southern end of the village in the 20th century, even to this day there is significant agricultural activity to its northern fringes. Later the Gelligaer Colliery Co. was But that is not to say that Gelligaer was established, but due to water in the without its industries. As far back as workings, the company closed in 1887. 1478 there are records of a Llancaiach Local drift mines continued to be Foundry. Mining, which had taken place exploited, such as the one operated by on a localised scale for centuries, the Edmunds brothers, up on Gelligaer became more widespread from the mountain which was worked well in to 1760s with numerous small pits and living memory. However, It was south drift mines being established including of the village that the impact of mining ones at Top Hill and Llancaiach. was to be at its greatest, with the establishment of Penallta Colliery, but In 1828 Thomas Powell (who founded more of that later… the Powell & Duffryn industrial empire) opened the Gelliargwellt level. This was The landscape around Gelligaer the site of the so called Gelligaer Riots continues to be a fascinating mix of which took place in 1843, when Powell urban and rural, so no two walks are tried to bring in blacklegs to work the ever the same! Why not get out there coal whilst his miners were on strike. and see for yourself. Powell instructed his manager Lewis Lewis to bring down men from Dowlais Clockwise from top left • William George to work the level, which he did. The Williams of Pottery Farm Glyn-gaer stands Dowlais blacklegs were lodged at alongside some of his Ayrshire dairy cows. • Mr O. B. Greenaway with a fellow worker Gelliargwellt Farm. However following a and a pit pony working at his brother Tom’s series of run-ins at the picket line, Lewis small drift mine on Gelligaer Mountain. was forced to swear on a frying pan that • Dyffryn Cottages. • William Greenhill in he would not recruit any more ‘scabs’. the 1930s at Green Hill Farm, Church Road, Only then was he allowed to leave the Gelligaer preparing to take a calf to the site safely with the Dowlais men. Nelson cattle market. 8 Lots to Learn

In the early 18th century, despite a few Fort. There is a plaque there circulating schools, education was commemorating Edward Lewis and his generally reserved for the relatively charitable school. The school, now on wealthy. This situation so worried one its third site, near , still has an Today the area is served by three wealthy landowner of the Parish, excellent reputation. primary schools, Greenhill, Glyn Gaer Edward Lewis (of the wealthy Lewis Lewis was well ahead of his time. and the newly built Welsh medium family mentioned on page 7) that he Education legislation began with the primary, Ysgol Penalltau. Comprehensive decided to leave money in his will education is provided at a number of specifically for setting up a school. He 1870 Education Act, but it was the 1880 Education Act that led to the secondary schools around the area died in 1728 at only 37 years of age. including, aptly, Lewis School Pengam establishment of compulsory schooling and Lewis Girls School. The school was to benefit 15 poor boys for 5-10 year olds. The leaving age was of the Parish at any one time, and the gradually increased, but compulsory Lewis knew the importance of sum he left was to cover the cost of education up to the age of 16 was not education, but his legacy could only purchasing a building, paying a teacher introduced until 1972. afford to help a few boys at a time. and to provide for uniforms and other Fittingly, the site of his first school is The connection between Lewis Boys materials. As his mother outlived him, now the focus for helping to educate School and the Roman Fort continued, it was a condition of his will that his everyone about the Roman heritage of when in the 1900s the school master wishes could not be put in to force Gelligaer. So make sure to attend or Arthur Wright brought some of his until she too had died. On her passing, you may get lines! the will was temporarily disputed by a students to the excavations at the fort. relative. Finally on the 1st August 1762 Wright was a keen photographer, and Clockwise from top left: • Original Lewis' the school was opened in a small glass plates of his photos show pupils School. • Lewis' School site memorial. cottage near the site of the Roman enjoying the dig. • Memorial to Edward Lewis, St Catwg's Church. 9 Village Life

Circa 1900 the village of Gelligaer was great significance” D Gethin Thomas, idyllic. The old roadway ran down past pg 10.9, 2010. St Catwg’s, Church Houses and the Post In the 18th and 19th centuries it was a Office, along Chapel Cottages and past coaching inn for the to Horeb Chapel, winding its way down Merthyr Tydfil stage coach – a very the hillside, with Twyn y Castell off to important means of transport prior to the right. Other features of the village the development of rail and motor at the time included the Old Rectory, vehicles. Also, prior to 1894 The Harp the cottage which had housed the first had served as a kind of civic centre. Lewis Boys School, Green Hill Farm, a Parish business was often conducted new village school and importantly two here, and it was here that agents of sometime around the turn of the last pubs, the Cross Inn and the Harp Inn. A Lord Senghenydd (by then the Marquis century, but the name lives on in a fine visitor to the village around this time of Bute) collected ‘chief rents’ from his Victorian pub which still sits opposite might also have caught a glimpse of tenants. It also served the social needs the Church on the main village square. the Cardiff Naturalists busy excavating of the community as well as offering Churches, chapels, shops, post offices the recently discovered Roman Fort. rooms to travellers. and pubs in small communities are a Second only to the Church, the Harp The Davies family were landlords of the finite resource, and the motto ‘use it or Inn was probably the most important Inn for the best part of two hundred loose it’ rings true here. So if you are building in the village. years, and a number of them were out exploring Gelligaer, why not make sure you take advantage of what’s “The Harp Inn, standing in the shadows renowned harpists. Thus when it became a requirement in law to give available… you might get a slice of of the Parish Church, with its stables, public houses a name, ‘The Harp Inn’ history thrown in for free! brewing house, coach house and must have seemed most fitting. handball court, was of great antiquity Top • Historic Village Centre circa 1900. and its range of buildings gave it The original Harp Inn was demolished Bottom • Historic Village Centre 2010. 10 Extraction and Expansion

“It was observed in 1906 that the peace 975,603 tons of coal. Despite this, the Production continued in Penallta until that was then to be found on the interwar years saw the coal industry November 1st 1991. Latterly the area pastoral slopes of the Cyllau Valley was within Wales on the decline. During occupied by the colliery has been under soon to be rudely disturbed by great WW2 the government took control of development. Some of it forms the industrial enterprise with a great crowd the Mines, and after the war they basis of a Country Park, other elements of people following in its train.” decided that Nationalisation was the include a Business Park and many of D Gethin Thomas, pg 10.9, 2010. best course of action. An Act was the remaining fine brick buildings are earmarked for housing. As D. Gethin Thomas notes above, the passed to that effect which led to the turn of the 20th century signified huge creation of the National Coal Board But how did the Colliery impact upon change for the Gelligaer area. The (NCB) in January 1947. Gelligaer? Initially, the village was catalyst for which was the sinking of Nationalisation was intended to ensure little changed. The Harp Inn was Penallta Colliery, just a few miles better safety underground, modern rebuilt, and Harp Terrace emerged downstream of the village itself. machinery and practises and a fairer some time before 1920. There was Despite some earlier forays into mining, wage system. For the miners of little in the way of housing the area had largely escaped the scars Penallta, however, change was too development in the UK during the and urbanisation which had so slow. As a result, on February 4th 1948, 1930s due to the general economic characterised much of the Valleys in a fit of disillusionment, 25 colliers conditions of that time. Post WW2, during the 18th and 19th centuries. staged a ‘stay down’ strike, refusing to however, the Labour MP Aneurin Bevan (best known for establishing Owned by the Powell Duffryn Company, come up from the pit for 60 hours. Not the National Health Service) embarked Penallta originally employed about 270 least among their grievances was the upon a national house building scheme. men. However, by the 1930s its fact that the ‘new’ 7 man management workforce had grown to over 3,200, board contained 5 of the old Powell He introduced the idea of ‘prefabs’, and annual production peaked at Duffryn bosses. which were quick and relatively 11 inexpensive to build, yet provided Further housing changes in the village accommodation that was far better included the demolishing of the than most local people were used cottages near the fort (including the to. As part of this scheme, a fairly first Lewis Boys School) and the large development of prefabricated building of Gelligaer House, as well as houses was built in Gelligaer, occupying a number of modern private houses So, armed with the tools provided by the area opposite Harp Terrace. This springing up along Church Road and this project (www.romangelligaer.org) was the first major social housing around the old village centre. and with your imagination to the fore, development to encroach on the Other alterations to the area included why not peel back the layers of Village itself. However, with the baby the development of the new road to Gelligaer and expose in your minds eye boom of the post war years, additional Cascade/Penpedairheol circa 1950 (on the vistas that once made this little social housing was called for, and by top of a former refuse/ash tip) and the patch of countryside important to the the end of the 1960s Gelligaer saw realigning of the road away from the might of Rome. huge changes. The prefabs were Cross Inn in the late 1960s. demolished to make way for a new Clockwise from top left • Urban spread. housing estate which spread further This ‘new’ elevated roadway along with • OS map 1875. • OS map 1969. • This group of miners at Penallta Colliery to the west and covered the the vast housing expansion skew the shows the enormity of the winding wheels ancient views from the village, and allotments, as well as much of the used. • No 2 upcast shaft at Penallta Colliery land of the former Green Hill and create a very different landscape to in the 1940s. The colliery was a provider of Penwyrlod Farms. This development that which our Prehistoric, Roman, jobs in the area for eighty years. • Mrs Elaine gave us the Gelligaer urban settlement Medieval and even Victorian Harris and her children in front of Harp that we recognise today. counterparts would have seen. Terrace 1961. 12 Gelligaer – Still Fighting!

After decades of general decline funds, much is now being done to which have faced the Valleys as a restore Gelligaer’s pride. One such whole, Gelligaer is once again fighting example is the Gelligaer Roman Fort back. As history has shown, Gelligaer project which owes a debt to the folk have always been resilient, drive and determination of key local whether battling with the Romans, individuals. This project aims to use raiding the Normans, or taking on the the area’s rich and intriguing Roman NCB. This spirit is still alive and kicking, heritage as a catalyst for change with pockets of the community actively ...both social and economic. working to regenerate the area for the benefit of present and future It is an interesting turn of history that generations. this period in Gelligaer’s story is now being celebrated by local people, who Recent improvements include the are realising the potential offered by redevelopment of the Church Hall, legacy the Romans left behind. renovations to St Catwg’s Church, and improvements to the housing Clockwise from top left • Roman Fort site stock. Aided by the Council and public today. • Welcome signs. • View of the Fort. 13 Gelligaer

To ROIHI Stone, Carn Bugail and To Practice Camps Dinas Noddfa/Platform Houses and Capel Gwladys

Maen Cattwg

Cross Inn

Top Hill Penwyrlod Farm Disused level

Green Hill Farm

To Llancaiach Fawr Fort

St Catwg’s Church

Gelliargwellt Uchaf Farm Harp Inn

Twyn y Castell

Former Harp Terrace

Penallta Industrial Estate

Penallta Community Park