TRAILWALKER

The Friends of the WINTER 2019 South Issue 152 FREE

Reconciliation on the Heysen

How to take better photos on the trail

The John Muir Trail North America’s most famous hiking trail

PLUS • The Great South West Walk • 2019 Walks Programme • Native Plants on the Heysen PRINT POST APPROVED 100002147 Travelling to ? Published by the Friends of the Heysen Trail & Contents Alpana Sta�on Transport Service & Accommoda�on Other Walking Trails Magazine of the Friends of the Heysen Trail Issue 152 Winter 2019 Suite 212, Epworth Building 33 Pirie St, SA 5000 Phone (08) 8212 6299 Web heysentrail.asn.au Email [email protected] 5 18-21 Facebook facebook.com/HeysenTrail President’s Report John Muir Trail Twitter twitter.com/HeysenTrail hikes YouTube youtube.com/HeysenTrail Melanie Sjoberg Ruth Rice Pinterest pinterest.com/HeysenTrail ______one of North David and Sally Henery of Alpana Sta�on Blinman offer a friendly, flexible and America’s most famous hiking accredited transport service to the BEST (!) end of the Heysen Trail: Wilpena, 6-8 trails. Blinman, Parachilna Gorge Heysen Trailhead, for walkers (individuals or groups). Mid North Branch Phone (08) 8841 3450 Friends’ AGM Also transport to the and further afield if required. Email [email protected] Reports on finances, our guest ______speaker, 2018 outcomes and Based just 5 km from Blinman in the , Alpana Sta�on offers: MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION three new Honorary Members. • Quality Selfcontained accommoda�on: Alpana shearers quarters for up to 14 people & Single $25 per year Family $40 per year 22 Nungawur�na Hut bush retreat for up to 6 people ______Schools & Organisations $60 per year Native Plants • Powered sites with ensuite bathroom facili�es for caravans/campers Membership is valid for 12 months from Mary Lane helps us identify • Scenic bush camping areas. the date of payment 9 & 10 some of the more common TRAILWALKER MAGAZINE plants found on the trail. Bookings Essen�al Deadline for the next issue Reconciliation ______Contact David and Sally Henery Email: alpanasta�[email protected] (Spring 2019): Mark Waters Friday 2 August 2019 calls for a Phone 08 8648 4626 Web: www.alpanasta�on.com Views expressed in contributed articles journey to PO Box 11, Blinman SA 5730 are those of the authors, and not Reconciliation 23-24 necessarily those of the Friends of the with Traditional Owners. Heysen Trail. Great South West ______The Trailwalker magazine is Walk available by subscription or online at Anne Kirk heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker 12 & 13 describes The Trailwalker magazine is published 100kms of quarterly: Walks Programme the Great • Autumn (March) The programme for 2019 End- • Winter (June) South West Walk from Nelson • Spring (September) to-End walks, TrailStarters and to Portland. TrailWalkers • Summer (December) ______The Trailwalker magazine has a ______The Mont Siena Women’s and Austral Men’s distribution of 1200, and an estimated readership of approximately twice that 25 number. 15 & 16 R Articles, reports and other submissions Book Review by members and other interested Photography on Greg Martin reviews Richard parties are welcome and should be the trail Savage’s Walkers Follow Fence. emailed to the Trailwalker Editor at ______ [email protected] Philip Bell explains The submission deadline is usually the how to take better first Friday of the month prior to the photos on the trail. month of publication. 27-29 A ADVERTISING RATES (Ex. GST) Routeburn & 1/8 page vertical $55 per issue ______ Greenstone Tracks 1/4 page $80 per issue Adam & W R 1/2 page $135 per issue Full Page $200 per issue 17 Suzanne Flyer (supplied for insertion) Matthews 228 Rundle St. Adelaide $240 per issue Volunteer Profile tramp NZ’s Adam Matthews is our next Ph: (08) 8232 3155 A commitment for 12 months advertising Routeburn and volunteer to be profiled for this Fax: (08) 8232 3156 (four issues) would attract 10% saving Greenstone regular feature. TOLL FREE: 1800 039 343 Gear For Going Places! Advertising specifications and Tracks. article submission guidelines are Follow us on facebook.com/paddypallinadelaide available upon request or by visiting 10% off for FOHT Members heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker

TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 3 About the Friends President’s Report Patron Honorary Members His Excellency the Honourable Sadie Leupold Jack Marcelis Hieu Van Le AC Thelma Anderson OAM Julian Monfries Feeling Good – The Effect of Walking Kath Palyga Terry & Frances Gasson Council Members 2018/19 Richard Schmitz Simon Cameron and Forestry SA areas may still be Melanie Sjoberg President Bird flyin’ high The Friends of the Heysen Trail Arthur Smith David Rattray OAM walked providing a total fire ban is Suzanne Matthews Vice President & Other Walking Trails Colin Edwards Hermann Schmidt You know how I feel not declared. We have signage at Julian Monfries Secretary Hugh Greenhill Robert Alcock Sun in the sky points on the trail to highlight that OFFICE Stephen Salib-Brown Treasurer Glen Dow Liz O’Shea You know how I feel private land is not to be accessed. Suite 212, 33 Pirie Street, Robert Alcock John Newland Barry Finn John Potter Breeze drifting by Adelaide SA 5000 Greg Boundy Neil Nosworthy Dean Killmier Kevin Liddiard You know how I feel Given the trend in weather reports Phone (08) 8212 6299 Colin Edwards Robyn Quinn John Wilson It’s a new dawn it seems we’ll need to be mindful Web heysentrail.asn.au Dom Henschke John Wilson David Beaton A new day of these factors as we plan future Carol Homewood Email [email protected] Honorary Members (Deceased) A new life programmes as well as our personal pre-season training. Nonetheless, Council Meeting Dates Terry Lavender OAM Doug Leane For me …..feelin’ good Open Monday to Friday I suspect that most of us would 10.30am – 2.30pm Wednesday 19 June 2019 Jim Crinion Fred Brooks (Nina Simone) Wednesday 17 July 2019 Neville Southgate Jamie Shephard readily rearrange things rather than ou need to listen to the miss a walking opportunity because VOLUNTEERS Wednesday 21 August 2019 Trailwalker Editor mellow sounds in Nina there are so many good reasons to Mondays Sub-Committee Chairs Greg Martin Simone’s voice, but the words be out in nature. Colin Edwards Trail Development Y Graham Loveday Editorial Sub-Committee capture how I feel out walking – and Neil Nosworthy Peter Larsson Walking I’m certainly feeling good about the Research demonstrating the benefits Robert Alcock Judy McAdam Melanie Sjoberg Elizabeth Rogers David Rattray OAM Office coming season. of walking continues to expand: it Helen Morgante Marketing & Philip Bell Liz Rogers improves our general health, helps completed the trail last August. Tuesdays Membership Robyn Coburn Julie Stapleton Yet again a great success for the mitigate risk of disease, reduces Colin Edwards Valerie Boundy Julian Monfries Honorary Walking SA Hiking Expo at Belair stress, builds stamina and resilience, This is a great achievement. It Tammy Main Chris Caspar Membership National Park in April with more supports mindfulness and enhances means we’re sharing the enjoyment Judy McAdam Warren Bonython Website Editor than 1500 through the gates and our sense of well-being. Economists and challenge of walking the Heysen Chris Porter Heysen Trail Foundation Jeremy Carter 400 plus joining a variety of guided argue that walking also benefits the and, hopefully, inspiring many David Rattray OAM to become the next generation Neville Haar Chairman walks. The Friends appreciate the economy through a consequential Wednesdays Membership Secretary Neil Nosworthy Secretary huge effort to build an event like reduction in the cost of healthcare. of volunteers – whether as walk Robin Bodycomb David Rattray OAM this to encourage walking and, as leaders, maintenance and office staff Our own experience tells us that Vicki Cahalan Mid North Branch Office Manager a major member organisation of walking brings people, curiosity or promoting the trail. Gilbert Downs Garry Fieldhouse President Dom Henschke Walking SA, value that partnership. and money into our regional Jack Marcelis Kate Greenhill Vice President communities as we follow the Sally Fieldhouse Secretary As I look back to the same time A New Trailwalker Thursdays Bookkeepers 1200km Heysen Trail. Hugh Greenhill Section 13 Leader John Wilson last year, we had quite a bit of rain Eve Buckley Sam Nichols & Publicity Officers and wind on the day of the Expo; Editor Needed Erica Gordon Maria Newland Walking the Heysen offers another Garry Fieldhouse yet the Bureau of Meteorology Julian Monfries Nimer Kaur bonus in our technology-driven, e are seeking someone had reported the warmest April on Judy Szekeres Maintenance Section Leaders Tina Behnke continuously-contactable digital to fill the voluntary Albert Schmidke Section 1 record for SA and driest since 2005. world: as we tread the more remote position of Trailwalker Fridays In 2019 we’ve experienced the sections with limited mobile phone W Roger Dunn 2A editor. The Trailwalker magazine is Cathy Bowditch John Newland 2B hottest summer on record across and Internet access, we allow produced quarterly by the editor, Erika Guess Hermann Schmidt 3&4 the whole of Australia with a record ourselves to legitimately escape with assistance from an Editorial Julia McLachlan (Wandergruppe Bushwalkers) heatwave in Adelaide in January. screen-time. I’ve had conversations Sub-Committee and members Suzanne Mausolf John Babister 5 The Bureau has also reported the with many members who relish their of the Marketing & Membership Relief Staff Richard Webb 6 warmest and driest March. Heysen-time as a chance to ‘detox’ Committee. The editor’s role Graham Loveday 7 Eve Buckley from the busyness of work and the customarily has been to assemble Ian Harding (WEA Ramblers) 8 In 2018 the Country Fire Service Colin Edwards seemingly endless push of emails, Jerry & Michelle Foster 9 extended the end of the fire danger and edit editorial and photos, Dom Henschke Colin Edwards (Temporary) 10 Facebook and text messages. and layout the publication using Graham Loveday season and again in 2019 it has Dom Henschke, Colin Rozman, Adobe InDesign. However, there’s Jack Marcelis COVER PHOTOS: announced an extension to the fire These factors are contributing to a Rick Price 11 no reason why the roles of editorial Robyn Quinn A stunning example season in the Mt Lofty and Adelaide growing interest and demand for Dom Henschke 12 and design cannot be separated region until 12 May. In our bushfire our walks programme with several Hugh Greenhill (Mid North Branch) 13 of ‘leading lines’ by and shared with two or even prone regions, currently afflicted by events already booking out quickly. Daniel Jardine 14 Philip Bell, and juniper three volunteers. Hands-on help trees on the John Muir severe drought, these warnings are Ron Capel (ARPA), Don McDonald 15 During 2018 our End-to-End is available from the current and Trail by . not to be taken lightly. Julie Starkey, Gary Wright 16 Ruth Rice groups averaged between 50 and previous editors with editing and Michael Kerin, Neil Finlay 17A Trailwalker welcomes submissions from The Heysen Trail is officially closed 60 participants, and more than using Adobe InDesign. Simon Cameron 17B readers of photos suitable for the cover during fire ban season so this 700 of our members were walking David Henery (Alpana Station), of the magazine If you are interested, please discuss meant that one of our End-to-End reasonably regularly. The office Gavin Campbell 18 with the current editor Greg Martin groups had to reschedule its first volunteers issued 82 End-to-End on [email protected] or walk of 2019. Sections of trail within Certificates, 42 of those specifically phone 0450 366 773. national parks, conservation parks to our End-to-End 8 group that 4 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 5 Friends’ AGM Friends’ AGM A brief summary of the 2018 accounts President’s Snapshot 2018 Treasurer’s Report Income At the AGM, Treasurer Stephen Salib-Brown reported a surplus Sales of Goods $16,385 totalling $2675 for 2018. Membership Subscriptions $25,260 Walking, weekends & others $37,167 2018 Key Outcomes his surplus is slightly down on the opening event of the walking Advertising Revenue $7,715 Melanie Sjoberg provides a snapshot of the President’s report she presented at the AGM the previous year of $7,417 season. Grants and donations are Interest $1,714 Tas we realised additional $6,000 less than 2017. Sundry Income $510 he Friends are certainly an End-to-End Av. Walkers hidden treasure opening the doors costs and softer revenues in some Reviewing general expenditures, Total $88,751 ambitious organisation. Group per Month 20 hours per week to assist the areas. For example, it’s the first year Our members are willing to overall functioning of the Friends: all four issues of our Trailwalker occupancy costs are lower by Expenditure T extend and continually look for ways • answering phone, email and $1,100; office equipment purchases Administration $3,295 magazine have been printed in full to improve the trail and walking E2E8 54 walk-in inquiries about the trail; lower by $2,930; and website Lease Costs $9,644 colour. experience. Importantly, we owe development and support remains Insurance & Affiliation Fees $7,152 • helping with walk registrations thanks to the various committees E2E9 50 The net contribution from walking similar to last year at around $8,500. Bank Fees $3,933 and membership applications; and dedicated volunteers that make activities is down on last year Office Expenses $16,695 • selling maps, merchandise, In general terms the Gross Margin all of this happen. by $4,000. Purchases of Golden Promotional Costs $4,166 E2E10 37 and books including Heysen Boots passes are proving a popular generated by all the Friends Highlights; and activities is $18,700 lower than Trailwalker Costs $15,551 Membership substitute for casual walk fees. Total $60,436 E2E11 54 • organising Trailwalker mailings. Season opening expenses are up 2017. This is partly offset by Membership is important for as FoHT increases its contribution a $5,300 reduction in general Administrative Surplus $28,317 strengthening the number of people Volunteers administrative costs and $9,000 less committed to the Heysen Trail and, E2E12 61 to Walking SA’s Hiking Expo as Less Trail Maintenance $25,642 It is pleasing and appropriate that in Trail Development expenses. hopefully, transforming people into Net Surplus $2,675 Council acknowledged the energy walkers and volunteers. E2E13 77 and commitment of our many PHOTO: Philip Bell The simple fact is that membership volunteers by establishing a written AGM Guest Speaker: fees make up a good part of our leaders coordinated 26 TrailStarters Volunteer Support Policy in 2018, annual revenue that keeps the office and 33 TrailWalkers; 19 Twilight providing clarity and consistency and website functioning, promoting walks; one Rambler and one to manage that aspect of the Briony Ankor the trail and funding maintenance Extended Walk during 2018. organisation. activity. riony Ankor walked the very little training before the Trail Development Of course, our volunteers enjoy Heysen Trail last year in 58 walk. Walking The Trail Development Committee giving back to the trail – and there days, with eight rest days. is a high degree of camaraderie – Briony said she decided to walk Our walk leaders are another vital succession planning continues with B so the work is done without much Her achievement is even more south to north. ‘I wanted to spark in the Friends’ efforts to three new members joining over the impressive as Briony suffers from thought of costs or measuring time. walk away from civilisation and encourage walking, promote the past year. narcolepsy and her hike raised more into the unknown. trail and care for it. It’s important for the Friends than $5000 for Nacrolepsy Australia. Our volunteer Section Leaders are a ‘I also knew if I walked north to significant group of quiet achievers; to step back to evaluate our Narcolepsy is marked by In addition to our End-to-End south I could get to Morialta marking, fixing and pruning so the achievements and consider the excessive daytime sleepiness and programme, our volunteer walk and know that if I jumped on trail is accessible. scope of that effort. Currently, the uncontrollable sleep attacks. People the H20 bus it would take Year Total Members New Members There were five Trail Development Committee suffering narcolepsy can fall asleep me past my home and my new Section is developing a database that suddenly, anywhere and at any time. comfortable bed.’ 2018 1203 238 Leaders to take aims to improve our systems and These attacks can last a few seconds over from retiring deliver better information about She started her hike in the to more than an hour. While 2017 1079 179 volunteers. our maintenance commitment. This medication can help, it leaves the last week of July and walked will help as we continue to raise sufferer, as Briony explained, feeling through some very wet 2016 976 107 Office the Friends’ profile, prepare grant ‘jet lagged’. conditions for the next three to applications and seek support for Briony Ankor (left) with Friends’ The office four weeks. 945 96 the future development of the trail. At the AGM Briony explained President Melanie Sjoberg 2015 volunteers are a

that she had always wanted to do ‘As it got warmer as I got into the PHOTO: Philip Bell a long-distance walk and it was Flinders, I started walking from four was happening in the world. How logical to choose the Heysen Trail o’clock each morning. It was still many Prime Ministers we went because of its familiarity. ‘I found dark, but I found it magical with through in that time. lots of reasons not to do it. Reasons the bird song starting and the sun ‘As I walked closer to Parachilna become excuses, so I just decided rising.’ Gorge I felt I didn’t want to leave to do it.’ She encountered amazing the trail. I felt like this was right for She prepared 60 meals, dehydrated generosity along the trail including me; I felt pride in my achievement and vacuum-packed, that she a cleaner at Hawker who awoke at and positive about myself.’ packed into boxes and arranged for 4am to drive Briony out to the trail. So much so that Briony is planning family and friends to drop off to her ‘And all she asked for was a hug.’ another long-distance hike later in each week along the Heysen Trail. On the trail Briony loved the the year; in Scotland from Inverness Because of her narcolepsy she did walking. ‘It didn’t matter what else to Glasgow. PHOTO: Philip Bell

6 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 7 Friends’ AGM 3 and 4. He also organised and led a popular series of walks by Friends Three Honorary Members elected on the Lavender Federation Trail. A Shared Journey to Reconciliation The AGM agreed to elect three Honorary Members: Liz O’Shea, Many will remember John for his John Potter and Kevin Liddiard. wildflower walks in the Hills. Mark Waters, then State Manager Reconciliation SA, gave the following presentation to the Friends’ Council in December 2018. As a member of the CFS John’s picture was on the front page of The Advertiser after fighting the Samson hen reading Terry Lavender’s • looking to inform, understand, Flat bushfire in January 2015. John book on the making of the acknowledge and respect culture; continues serving with the CFS. Heysen Trail, I was struck • seeking opportunities to practically Wby the context of that time. Around demonstrate what has been learned. Kevin Liddiard 1982, the sensitive negotiations with evin joined the Friends in “ landholders helped to forge the Reconciliation SA on its website 1990 and has completed the trail to what it is today. At that time, describes the process of reconciliation Heysen Trail three times. negotiations with native titleholders and as Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal K Continued next page ... Traditional Owners would not have been Upon becoming a Friend Kevin Indigenous immediately volunteered to help even thought of as appropriate and with trail maintenance. He has Language Groups necessary. So we have come a long way Friends of the been a member of the Greening along the Heysen Trail in our thinking over 26 years. Heysen Trail and Committee since 2012. Kevin In the middle of 2017, I presented and his wife Lee were also active at a Regional Forum in Port members in the late Jim Crinion’s Pirie. Afterwards I was chatting Reconciliation Greening group at Tannunda. to a local farmer who said that ince Mark’s presentation in December, Council has PHOTO: Philip Bell In 2002, Kevin became the first the Heysen Trail was on her land – around where you head introduced plans to bring (From left) Kevin Liddiard, Liz O’Shea and John Potter proudly hold their maintenance section leader S recognition and respect to the for Section 14 – Spalding to south and drop off the scarp Honorary Membership certificates at the Friends’ AGM Traditional Owners of the land on Georgetown, a large section into Georgetown. She said that which the Heysen Trail passes. These Liz O’Shea John Potter covering about 60kms. He remained she had often thought about initiatives are still being discussed with this section’s leader until 2018. what could be done to put in ith membership number ohn joined FoHT in 2007 and Aboriginal Elders, Reconciliation SA 43, Liz was an early completed the trail first with relevant information markers to Kevin has been a walk leader for and the Department of Environment & member of FoHT. She End-to-End3 in July 2010. He signify the language group whose J many years, and he continues to land the trail was crossing. She Water (DEW). W has since walked with three different was on Council from 1995 to 1998, lead walks. He has walked and and Vice President and Public End-to-End groups. is an Aboriginal woman from In her President’s Report of the last assisted with many E2E groups and Officer from 1996 to 1998. Queensland and, therefore, keen issue of Trailwalker (Autumn 2019), John was part of a group of most E2E walkers up to the last to pay appropriate respect. Melanie Sjoberg introduced draft In 1992, Liz, among others, was volunteers who in 2008 formed the couple of years would know Kevin. wording for an Acknowledgement to recognised for her work on trail Hut Maintenance Group to ensure He has contributed many articles to As End-to-End 8 progressed through SA, some walkers asked Country which End-to-End groups can development around Quorn. As that all huts under FoHT control Trailwalker over the years. use as they traverse Aboriginal country maintenance section leader on were better looked after. In 2009, about whose land we were on. Anne Kirk was particularly on the trail. That Acknowledgement, behalf of WEA Ramblers she helped John constructed and assisted while still under discussion with carry out essential maintenance on the installation of a new water passionate about researching HEYSEN this and followed up by buying a Traditional Owners/Native Title Holders, the trail between Mt Lofty Golf Club tank shelter at Eyre Depot and, Aboriginal Australia Wall Map, is reproduced on the next page. and Bridgewater. She was section over the next few years, helped courtesy D R Horton, Aboriginal South Australian Aboriginal languages leader for Section 8 – Piccadilly with the installation of many water HIGHLIGHTS Studies Press, AIATSIS 1996 map that shows the 39 identified The Friends also have formed a to Norton Summit – from 1994 to tank shelters at various locations. (Reproduced from Simon Aboriginal groups in SA. Reconciliation Committee whose ’s personal members will meet with Aboriginal 2018 – and remembers helping with John also assisted in other major Simon Cameron Cameron’s Heysen Highlights p.9) This got to the point where stakeholders, Reconciliation SA and signage installation north of Burra maintenance and construction perspective, gathered over NB. The Friends of the Heysen Acknowledgements to Country were DEW to discuss opportunities for with Anne and Colin Malcolm. projects including work at Curnow’s nearly 20 years of walking Trail are embarking on a series performed before we headed into Hut and Red Range. of consultations with Traditional sharing stories along the Heysen Trail. Liz was a regular contributor to the Heysen Trail. (Anne Kirk, June Owners along the trail to confirm Trailwalker, particularly in the mid- By 2011, John was sole section 2018) and along Aroona Valley (Geoff The theme for this year’s National the veracity of this map. 1990s when she regularly reported leader for Section 10 – Cudlee The perfect Kay, August 2018). The June date Reconciliation Week (31May-3June) was on maintenance section leader Creek to Bethany – and, with Joyce companion also coincided with my article about Grounded in Truth – Walk Together in activities. She also assisted with Heinjus, Section 11 – Bethany to for walking the Kokoda Track Reconciliation Trek Courage. This theme has resonance for the Greening programme, notably Peter’s Hill. For 2014 and 2015, he (Trailwalker Winter 2018) that highlighted the Friends and all users of the Heysen the Heysen helping with the tree planting at was sole section leader for Sections the importance of understanding Trail. Trail walking on country. Point Pass in 2017. 10 and 11, covering about 150 kms For information on the work of along the trail. From 2016, he was Liz has a long involvement with Reconciliation can be seen to have three Reconciliation SA visit their website section leader for Section 10 until plus postage Walking SA, being awarded $39.95 main foci: www.reconciliationsa.org.au or contact his retirement in 2018. the Walking SA Longstanding Order on the • building relationships with local Ms Shona Reid, Executive Director, Contribution /Distinguished Service John was assistant walk leader with Friends’ website people; on 0497 162 447 or email sreid@ heysentrail.asn.au/shop Award in 2017. a number of E2E groups, mainly reconciliationsa.org.au 8 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 9 Reconciliation So the challenge (Cont.) is for the Friends Friends’ people walking, talking and working Reconciliation together to make a fairer Australia. to open up The healing process starts with conversations with Committee understanding. the Ramindjeri within In writing to Council in September he Friends’ Council 2018 some suggestions were given the Ngarrindjeri endorsed the establishment as possible further action: Tof a committee to work on nation, Kaurna, Indigenous Reconciliation matters • Welcome to or Acknowledgement Carter PHOTOS: Philip Bell, Jeremy of Country at agreed points on Peramangk, Ngadjuri, that relate to the Heysen Trail the Heysen Trail. For example, on its 1200km journey through options could include at the Nukunu, Barnggarla . There has been beginning of each year or as each a preliminary meeting of some Successful Hiking Expo at Belair End-to-End group transitions from and Adnyamathanha. interested Friends to begin Jeremy Carter reports on Walking SA’s successful launch of the 2019 bushwalking season. one country to another. discussions, including: • Information signage that signifies and celebratory conversations, • wording of an Acknowledgement n April, Walking SA, in wall, staffed by climbing instructors PHOTO: transitions from one country to there might need to be hard of Country for walking groups; conjunction with Friends of the from Venture Corporate Recharge, Heysen Trail, ARPA Bushwalkers and the many volunteers who another. conversations too; that is, if the trail • begin dialogue with appropriate

I Bill Gehling and Heart Foundation Walking, helped with car park marshalling and • Other significant sites explained, went somewhere that it shouldn’t Aboriginal people, Elders, presented the annual Hiking Expo in showcasing walking opportunities. for example, the significance of have been routed, or if there were Reconciliation SA, the particular aspects where an area Belair National Park. Wilpena Pound or the massacre Department of Environment John Schutz (left), CEO of the might be only relevant for men’s sites in the Aroona Valley. & Water (DEW) and other The event showcased hiking and Department for Environment and business or women’s business. • Elders as part of paid cultural stakeholders, including walking opportunities. There were Water, officially launchedHeysen tourism to hold information We are all learners in this space. My landowners and councils; 32 exhibitors, ranging from walking Highlights, with author Simon sessions when weekends or week- advice to you is to hasten slowly. • explore the definitions of groups and clubs, adventure tourism Cameron and Friends’ President long hikes are involved. Let’s go together on a journey of Aboriginal countries and operators, outdoor gear retailers, Melanie Sjoberg • Stories told in the Trailwalker discovery. We may not know where language groups, which are trail destinations and tour operators. about Aboriginal Culture. we will end up, but it will be worth it traversed on the Heysen Trail; Thanks to them between 1500 and 2000 people discovered new places Keeping track of End-to-End groups So the challenge is for the Friends in the long run. • identifying historical places of to hike, what to wear and who to to open up conversations with the indigenous significance along hike with. E2E9 have a week’s Ramindjeri within the Ngarrindjeri The following wording has been the trail. walking in July from N nation, Kaurna, Peramangk, Thanks also to the many walk leader RANGES suggested by the Reconciliation These and other issues will be a Warren Gorge to Parachilna Gorge Ngadjuri, Nukunu, Barnggarla and Committee to be used by Friends of volunteers, more than 400 people Moralana Drive. Blinman continuing and ongoing focus for Parachilna Adnyamathanha. I can put you in joined guided walks to see some of the Heysen Trail” walk leaders: this committee. touch with key Elders from a number the best hiking and walking trails in Wilpena Pound “We acknowledge the Aboriginal of those communities so that Present committee members are Belair National Park. E2E10 are at people as the Traditional Owners FLINDERS you can start discussing how the Melanie Sjoberg (FoHT President), Murraytown on their of the beautiful land that we are We owe the success of the Expo to way to Melrose and Hawker cultural significance of the land that Anne Kirk, Simon Cameron and Mt.Arden the Heysen Trail traverses can be walking on today. We appreciate many volunteers and others who Mt Remarkable. Heysen Trail Philip Bell. If you have an interest in Port Quorn their continuous spiritual connection worked together to bring the event Augusta recognised. reconciliation and would like to join 1,200km to this country over thousands of Mt.Brown to fruition. Special thanks to our Wilmington adventure hike the committee contact the Friends’ E2E11 are And it is important to recognise years & we pay our respects to their event sponsor Let’s Go Caravan & Iron Knob Melrose that as well as being positive office on 8212 6299. heading towards Elders, past, present and future.” Camping SA, and John Schutz, CEO Wirrabara Peterborough Hallett and the Whyalla of the Department for Environment Jamestown SOUTH Chlorinator. Port and Water, for officially opening the Pirie Hallett Mt.Bryan Crystal HANSON BAY CABINS bushwalking season and launching Spalding Spencer Brook AUSTRALIA Hanson Bay Cabins overlook the pristine beach and Simon Cameron’s book Heysen Burra sparkling waters of Hanson Bay and are located on the E2E12 are walking Gulf 7797 South Coast Road KARATTA Clare Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail. Highlights. Also to our event Wallaroo P: 08 8559 7344 to Mt Crawford and Kadina Morgan E: [email protected] partners and guided walk hosts Moonta Tanunda. Port www.hansonbay.com.au WE CATER TO TRAIL WALKERS OFFERING Wakefield ACCOMMODATION, CATERING, TRANSFERS, without whom this event would be

Maitland RANGES CHECK OUT Mallala Blanchetown NOCTURNAL TOURS impossible: Nurioopta OUR VOLUNTEER Tanunda Angaston Swan Reach PROGRAMME • Friends of the Heysen Trail, E2E13 are at Gulf Gawler OR TAKE OUR FULLY GUIDED 4 DAY WALKING Kyeema heading AND WILDLIFE TOUR • Heart Foundation Walking, St LOFTY Mannum for Dashwod Gully ADELAIDE Mt. Lofty • ARPA Bushwalkers, Hahndorf Vincent Mylor Murray Bridge VISITOR CENTRE AND CAFE • and other valued guided walk and Mylor. Mt Barker Aldinga Beach MOUNT Mt. Magnificent Located on South Coast Road and 20 minutes from hosts, including Friends of Belair Mount Compass Remarkable Rocks and close to all the wilderness attractions Cape Yankalilla

National Park and Four Seasons E2E14 are at Jervis Goolwa Opening Hours Kingscote Victor Harbor Walking Group. Coobler Hill in Penneshaw Spring / Summer 8am to 6pm Parndana Autumn / Winter 9am to 5pm Also, a special thanks to Rock About the Deep Creek Southern Ocean for providing a free rock-climbing Conservation Park.

Bo a 10 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 11 End-to-End Walks This version released 27 December 2018 2019 Walk Season Programme heysentrail.asn.au

1st Weekend 2nd Weekend 3rd Weekend 4th Weekend 5th Weekend

Sat May 4 – Sun May 5 End-to-End 10 Mt Zion - Wirrabara Forest - Sat May 25 - Sun May 26 Sun May 19 Block 9 Rd Sun May 12 Sat May 4 – Sun May 5 End-to-End 11 This version released 27 December 2018 TTrailStarterrailStarter && TrailWalkerTrailWalker Walks Walks End-to-EndEnd-to-End Walks 13 End-to-End 12 ThisThis version version released released 15 February 19 May 2019 2019 End-to-End 11 heysentrail.asn.au May Wandallah - 2019 Walk Season Programme heysentrail.asn.au 2019 Walk Season ProgrammeCudlee Creek to heysentrail.asn.au 2019 Walk Season Programme Worlds End-Burra-Wandallah Mt Compass to Kyeema Newikie Creek - Nugget Rd Sun May 5 Dares Hill Summit Rd End-to-End 14 1st Weekend 2nd Weekend 3rd Weekend 4th Weekend 5th Weekend Cape1st Jervis Weekend to Cobbler Hill 2nd Weekend 3rd Weekend 4th Weekend 5th Weekend 1st Weekend 2nd Weekend 3rd Weekend 4th Weekend 5th Weekend

Sat May 4 – Sun May 5 Sun June 2 Wed Sat June 22 Sun June 30 Sun June 9 Sun June 16 Sat April 27 Sun June 30 Sat JuneEnd-to-End 1 - Sun 10June 2 TrailStarter SundayTrailS Apriltarter 14 TrailStarter June TrailWalker TrailStarter End-to-End 12 TrailWalkerWillunga Basin Mt ZionEnd-to-End - Wirrabara 10 Forest - Sun June 16 Sat May 25 - Sun May 26 Sherpherds Hill Ambers Gully Athelstone 19 Mack Creek Sun May 19 Sat June 22 - Sun June 23 Mt Crawford to Willunga BasinTrail Trail Block 9 RdBlock - Murraytown 9 Rd - Sun June 9 Helen Morgante KSpecialevin Liddia Eventrd AprilKevin 20 Liddia- Aprilrd 21 Mary Cartland Sun May 12 Pewsey Vale Jardine/SjobergJardine/Sjoberg Melrose End-to-End 12 End-to-End 11 Green- Sat May 4 – Sun May 5 End-to-End 13 End-to-End 12 Sun June 2 EASTER hill Sun June 23 End-to-End 13 June Opening Sun June of the9 Sun June 16 Sun June 30 End-to-End 11 Dares Hill Summit Rd to April TrailWalker Sun April 28 May Nugget Rd to Walk Season TrailWalker June Wandallah - TrailWalker TrailWalker Kyeema to to Sun June 30 John Trailwalker Worlds End-Burra-WandallahSun June 2 Mt Compass to Kyeema Mt Crawford NewikieHallett Creek to - Black Hill Mt Crawford Kenor sbwalksrook TrailStarterAshbourne Mount Misery Dashwood Gully Nugget Rd End-to-End 13 Babister Sun May 5 DaresEE George Hill Summit Quarry Rd Michael Joyce Jon Holbrook Judith Ellis MysteryDean Walk Mortimer Peter Clark End-to-End 14 Dashwood Gully Julie Testi CobblerEnd-to-End Hill to Tapanappa 14 to Mylor to Cobbler Hill Sun July 7 Sun July 14 Wed Sun July 21 Sat July 27 TSunrailS Maytart er5 TSunrailS Maytar t12er July Sun MayTrail 19star ter TSatrail MayWalk 25er Sat July 6 – Sun July 14 Sun July 21 KuitpoTrailStarter Forest AnTrailStartersteys Hill 17 TrailStarterKaiser Stuhl CP WillungaTrailWalker Basin Trail Sat June 1 - Sun JuneEnd-to-End 2 9 Sun June 30 End-to-End 12 y JudithMylor Ellis KePiccadillyvin Liddiard Brown- DomTBA Henschke WillungaJardine/Sjobe Basin Trailrg End-to-End 10 End-to-End 12 SunPewsey June Vale 16 SatSat June July 2722 - Sun JulyJune 28 23 Rosemary Hayward Paul Gill hill/ TBA Jardine/Sjoberg BlockSat July 9 Rd 6 - –Murraytown Sun July 7 - Sun June 9 Mt Crawford to Sun July 28 Sun July 28 to Tanunda Pewsey Vale Ju l Sun July 7 Sun July 14 Belair Sun July 21 End-to-EndMelrose 10 Warren Gorge End-to-End 11 TSunrailS Maytar t26er TSunrail MayWalk 26er

End-to-End 12 May Melrose - Alligator Gorge Rd End-to-End 13 TSatrail WMayalk 5er TSunrail WMayalk 12er John Sun MayTrail 19Wal ker Ladys Choice Kyeema/ to Montacute Tungkillo Loop Sea to Summit TrailStarter TrailWalker - Horrocks Pass Dares Hill Summit Rd to TrailWalker TrailWalker BabisterTrailWalker K Turner & Kuitpo July Nugget Rd to EE George Quarry Mt Pleasant Carrick Hill June Peter Deacon Adam/Suzanne Matthews Alan Davis MoralanaKyeema Drive to Sun July 21 Hallett to Sun June 30 Para Wirra Summertown TBA J Wenzel J Holbrook Sun June 2 Mt Crawford to Spalding Rd Mary Caroline Sun July 7 Dashwood Gully End-to-End 13 EE George Quarry End-to-End 13 Paul Saxby Judith Ellis TBA End-to-End 14 to the Chlorinator Cartland Prescott Sat Aug 31 End-to-End 14 Mylor to Cleland Dashwood Gully Sun August 4 Sun August 11 Sun August 18 Wed Sun August 25 Cobbler Hill to Tapanappa TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailStarter Aug TrailStarter Cape Jervis to Tapanappa to Balquhidder to Mylor Sun June 2 Sun June 9 Sun June 16 Sun June 30 t Onkaparinga Brownhill Ck/Belair Kuitpo 21 Sat JuneTBA 22 Cobbler Hill TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailStarter Robyn Quinn Valerie Boundy Rosemary Hayward TrailWalkerJulie Testi A & S Matthews Sat July 6 – Sun July 14 Sun Aug 11 – Sun AugSun 18 July 21 Sherpherds Hill Ambers Gully Beaumont AnsteyWillunga Basin Trail Mack Creek Sat Aug 3 - Sun Aug 4 Helen Morgante Kevin Liddiard Michael Joyce HillJardine/Sjoberg Mary Cartland End-to-End 9 End-to-End 9End-to-End 12 Sat August 4 Sun August 11 Sun August 18 Sun August 25 End-to-End 10 Sat Aug 24 - Sun Aug 25 Sat Aug 31 – Sun Sept 1 Sat July 27 - Sun July 28 Augu s Sat July 6 – Sun July 7 Moralana Drive to ParachilnaPewsey Trailhead Vale TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker John TrailWalker Horrocks Pass Sat June 2

June Sturt Gorge Sanderson Trail End-to-End 10 to Tanunda Sun June 9 SleepsSun HillJune Viaduct 16 BabisterSun JuneTBA 23 Sun June 30 to Broadview Warren Gorge End-to-End 11 End-to-End 10 TrailWalkerPhilip Bell Adam Matthews Melrose - Alligator Gorge Rd TrailWalker TrailWalkerAlan Davis TrailWalkerTBA Trailwalker to Woolshed Flat to Black Hill - Horrocks Pass Mt Crawford Kersbrook 3 Parks Panorama Mount Misery July Sun Aug 11 EE George Quarry Michael Joyce Moralana Drive Sun AugJuly 1821 The Chlorinator Woolshed Flat Sun Sept 1 JonSun Holbrook Sept 8 Sun SeptJudith 15 Ellis Wed DeanSun SeptMortimer 22 SunPeter Sept Clark 29 August to Spalding Rd Sun July 7 End-to-End 13 to Curnows Hut to Quorn Trailwalker TrailStarter TrailStarter Sept Sun Aug 4 End-to-End 1213 to the Chlorinator TrailStarter TrailStarter Cleland to to Raeville to Dutchmans Stern Hale CP Kersbrook Wittunga Jenkins Scrub/Mt Crawford End-to-End 14 TanundaMylor to to Cleland Kapunda Sun July 7 Sun July 14 GarSundens July 21 18 SturtSat July Gor ge27 Tapanappa to Balquhidder Montacute Heights Robyn Quinn Kevin Liddiard Philip Bell Mary Cartland Balquhidder to Waitpinga TrailStarter TrailStarter Helen MoTrailstarterrgante Black TrailWalker ember Ansteys Hill Kaiser Stuhl CPHill Willunga Basin Trail Sun Sept 1 Sun Sept 8 Sun Sept 15 Sun Sept 22 Sun Sept 29 Sun Aug 11 – Sun Aug 18 Sat Sept 21 - Sun Sept 22 Judith Ellis Kevin Liddiard Dom Henschke Jardine/Sjoberg Sat Aug 3 - Sun Aug 4 Sat Sept 14 - Sun Sept 15 TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker John TrailWalker TrailWalker End-to-End 9 End-to-End 11 TBA Sep t Deep Creek Kersbrook/Mt Crawford Sun July 28TBASun July 28 Onkaparinga End-to-End 10 End-to-End 12 July Babister Moralana Drive to Parachilna Trailhead Sat Aug Raeville24 - Sun Aug 25 SatSat Sept Aug 28 31 –– SunSun SeptSept 291 AdamSun Matth July 7e ws JohnSun BabiJuly st14er TBASun July 21 Peter Clark Jon Holbrook HorrocksSun Sept Pass 1 Kapunda to Hamilton TrailStarter TrailWalker to Locks Ruin TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker Ladys Choice Kyeema/ to Broadview to Peters Hill Montacute Tungkillo Loop Sea to Summit toEnd-to-End Bowman Park 11 End-to-End 10 Sat Oct 5 Wed K Turner & Kuitpo to Woolshed Flat Sun Sept 8 Peter Deacon Adam/Suzanne Matthews AlanSun Davis Oct 20 Sat Oct 26 End-to-End 14 TrailWalker Oct TrailStarter J WenzelTrail WalJk erHolbrook Sun Aug 11 SunSun SeptAug 1815 TheSun Chlorinator Sept 22 DutchmansWoolshed SternFlat Willunga Basin Trail Sunday Oct 13 16 Onkaparinga Willunga Basin Trail August WaitpingaSun to Aug Tugwell 4 Rd End-to-End 13 End-to-End 13 End-to-Endto Curnows Hut 14 to Eyreto Quorn Depot JaSunrdine/Sjobe August 4rg Sun August 11 Sun AugustM. Middelton 18 JaSunrdine/Sjobe August 25rg End-to-End 12 Special Event September Cleland to to Raeville to Dutchmansto Buckaringa Stern TrailStarter Sturt TrailStarter End-to-End 14 TanundaMontacute to KapundaHeights Tugwell Rd ober TrailStarter TrailStarter Montacute Heights Onkaparinga Brownhill Ck/Belair Gorge Onkaparinga Balquhidder to Waitpinga to Cudlee Creek to Inman Valley Sun Oct 6 Walktober KuitpoSun Oct 20 Sun Oct 27 Sun Oct 27 RobynTrailS tQuinnarter Valerie Boundy Rosemary Hayward Philip Bell Oc t John TrailWalker TrailStarter TrailWalker Sir Mark Oliphant CP Horsnell Gully Orchids Cleland Sat Oct 19 - Sun Oct 20 Sat Sept 21 - Sun Sept 22 Babister Sun Oct 13 Sat Sept 14 - Sun Sept 15 JohnSun August Babister 4 Sun August 11 Sun SimonAugust Came 18 ron PhilipSun Bell AugustPaul 25 Gill End-to-End 11 End-to-End 11 End-to-End 13 End-to-End 12 August TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker Bowman Park Raeville Sat Sept 28 – Sun Sept 29 Cudlee Creek Kapunda to Hamilton TBA SandersonSun Sept Trail25 Sleeps Hill Viaduct WaitpingaSun Oct Clifftops 7 Sun Oct 14 Sun Sept 1 to Mt Zion (Mills Rd) to Locks Ruin Walk GSunrades Sept 24 Walk Registration Walk Cancellations Further Information to Nugget Rd to Peters Hill Julie Testi AdamTrailS Matthewstarter Alan Davis CarolineTrailS tPrescottarter TrailWalker to Wirabarra to Bowman Park Street Art End-to-End 10 TheTrreailS are fivetar tdiferfe r-ent grades When it is Marysnot walk season,Gully Register for a walk either online or TrailStar tJenkinser and Trail ScrubWalker walks Details aboutMt each Lofty walk, the hot End-to-EndSun Oct 6 14 Sun Sept 8 Sun Oct 27 of walk onCBD the F-riends Vicki of C theox generally during the summer Fire over the phone. will be cancelled in the forecast weather policy, what to wear and Sat Oct 19 - Sun Oct 20 Heysen Trail walk programme. Ban Season,Arrienne a fifth walk Wynen grade, temperatuMaryre for CartlandAdelaide is equal what to bring,Walking walk gr adesSA or to print Sun Oct 13 Sun Sept 15 Sun Sept 22 Dutchmans Stern Sun Sept 1 Sun Sept 8 Register onlineSun atSept 15 Sun Sept 22 Sun Sept 29 End-to-End 12 Four of these operate during the Summer Twilight Walks, operate. heysentrail.asn.au, or by phoning or higher than 32ºC. off a colourTrailStarter copy of the programme,

October Trailwalker TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailStarter Waitpinga to Tugwell Rd End-to-End 14 to Eyre Depot walk season, generally from April visit heysentrail.asn.au End-to-EndPeters Hill 13 End-to-End 14 Hale CP Details of eachSunKersbrook walk Sept gr ade25 are the officeWittunga on 8212 6299. Gardens If unforseenSturt circum Gorgestances arise Jenkins Scrub/Mt Crawford September Inman Valley Montacute Heights Tugwell Rd to Buckaringa to NovemberSun when Sept it is 24not Fire to Gerkie Gap provided onT therail wWebsialtke:er Walks close between Tuesday and and you are no longer able to Mary Cartland BanTr ailSeason:WRobynalker - Quinn Black Hill - heysentrail.asn.au/walksKevin Liddiard Helen Morgante participate in Philip the walk, Bell please to Myponga to Cudlee Creek to Inman Valley N ov ember Chambers Gully to Webb Gap James Wenzel Friday prior to the walk, closing • Trail Starter Neil Rivett dates and times are listed on each notify the office as soon as • Trail WalkSuner Sept 1 Sun Sept 8 walk eventSun page Septon the 15website. possible, orSun leav eSept a me s22sage on the Sun Sept 29 Sat Oct 19 - Sun Oct 20 • Trail Rambler answering machine after this time. Walk Grades Sun Oct 13 Walk Registration Walk Cancellations Further Information • End-to-EndTrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker TrailWalker You can join any walk on End-to-Endthis End-to-End 11 programme. Cleland End-to-End 13 September Deep Creek Kersbrook/Mt Crawford TBA Onkaparinga There are five different grades When it is not walk season, Register forBowman a walk either Park online or End-to-End walks are not subject Details about each walk, the hot Cudlee Creek Adam Matthews John Babister Caroline Prescott TBA Jon Holbrook of walk on theSimply Friends of the selectgenerally duringa hike the summer you Fire wouldover theto phone. Mt Zion like (Mills to Rd) jointo a weatherand forecast register temperature online.weather policy, what to wear and Heysen Trail walk programme. Ban Season,to a Nugget fifth walk Rd grade, limit, however the walk leader what to bring, walk grades or to print Register onlineto Wirabarra at WalksFour Grade. of these operate during the Summer Twilight Walks, operate. heysentrail.asn.au,close or by betweenphoning may Tuesday decide to andcancel Fridayor amend prioroff to a colourthe walk.copy of theClosing programme, Sat Oct 5 Sat Oct 26 walk season,Sun generally Oct from6 April Details of each walk grade are the office on 8212 6299. the event if Sunweather Oct is deemed27 to visit heysentrail.asn.au to November when it is not Fire Sat Oct 19dates - Sun andOct 20timepresent are listed a high risk. on each event page on the website. TrailWalker TrailWalker There are five different gradesprovided of walks onSun the onwebsite: Oct the 13 Friends Walksof the close between Tuesday and Sunday Oct 13 Ban Season: heysentrail.asn.au/walks End-to-End 12 If unforseen circumstances arise Willunga Basin Trail Willunga Basin Trail October November End-to-End 14 Friday prior to the walk, closing Heysen• Trail Trail Starter walk programme. Four of these operate during PetersWalk Hill Cancellations. and you are no longer able to Jardine/Sjoberg Jardine/Sjoberg Inman Valley dates and times are listed on each Special Event • Trail Walker to Gerkie Gap participate in the walk, please the walk season – generally from Aprilto to Myponga November – whenwalk event page on the website. • Trail Rambler to Webb Gap notify the office as soon as Sun Oct 6 • End-to-End TrailStarter andpossible, TrailWalker or leave a messagewalks willon the be cancelled if the Walktober Sun Oct 20 it is not Fire Ban Season: TrailStarter forecast temperatureanswering formachine Adelaide after this time.is equal or higher than 32°C. October TrailWalker • TrailStarter • TrailWalker Sir Mark Oliphant CP Horsnell Gully Walk Grades Walk RegistrationIf unforseen circumstancesWalk Cancellations arise and youFurther are no longerInformation able John Babister Simon Cameron • TrailThere Rambler are five different grades• End-to-EndWhen it is not walk season, Register for a walkto eitherparticipate online or inEnd-to-End the walk, walks please are not subject notify theDetails office about each as walk,soon the ashot of walk on the Friends of the generally during the summer Fire over the phone. to a weather forecast temperature weather policy, what to wear and e2e_2019_v1.inddDetails 1 of each walk grade are provided on the website possible, or leave a message on the answering machine. 27-Dec-18 2:39:58 PM Sun Sept 25 Sun Oct 7 Sun Oct 14 Heysen Trail walk programme. Ban Season, a fifth walk grade, Register online at limit, however the walk leader what to bring, walk grades or to print Walk GradesSun Sept 24 Walk Registration Walk Cancellations Further Information heysentrail.asn.au/walksFour of these operate during the Summer Twilight Walks, operate. may decide to cancel or amend off a colour copy of the programme, TrailStarter TrailStarter TrailWalker heysentrail.asn.au, or by phoning ThereTrailStarter are five different - Street grades Art When it is not walk season, Register for a walk either online or TrailStarter and TrailWalker walks Details about each walk, the hot walk season, generally from April Details of each walk grade are the office on 8212Further 6299. Information.the event if weather is deemed to visit heysentrail.asn.au Marys Gully Jenkins Scrub Mt Lofty of walk onCBD the Friends- Vicki of Cox the generally during the summer Fire over the phone. will be cancelled in the forecast weather policy, what to wear and to November when it is not Fire provided on the website: present a high risk. Walks Registration. Walks close between Tuesday and Heysen Trail walk programme. Ban Season,Arrienne a fifth Wynenwalk grade, temperatureMary for CartlandAdelaide is equal what to bring,Walking walk grades SA or to print Ban Season: heysentrail.asn.au/walks If unforseen circumstances arise Register online at November Friday prior to theDetails walk, closing about each walk, the hot weather policy, what to wear Four of these operate during the Summer Twilight Walks, operate. or higher than 32ºC. off a colour copy of the programme, • Trail Starter and you are no longer able to heysentrail.asn.au, or by phoning Register for a walk either online or over the phone; onlinedates at and timesand are listed what on each to bring, walk grades or to print off a colour copy of walk season, generally from April visit heysentrail.asn.au • Trail Walker walk event page on the website. participate in the walk, please Details of eachSun walk Sept grade 25 are the office on 8212 6299. If unforseen circumstances arise • Trail Rambler notify the office as soon as to NovemberSun when Sept it is 24not Fire heysentrail.asn.au or phone the office on 8212 6299. Walks the programme, visit heysentrail.asn.au provided onTrailWalker the website: Walks close between Tuesday and and you are no longer able to • End-to-End possible, or leave a message on the BanTrailWalker Season: - Black Hill - heysentrail.asn.au/walks participate in the walk, please November Chambers Gully Friday prior to the walk, closing answering machine after this time. James Wenzel 12 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 • Trail Starter Neil Rivett dates and times are listed on each notify theTRAILWALKER office as soon as WINTER 2019 13 • Trail Walker walk event page on the website. possible, or leave a message on the • Trail Rambler answering machine after this time. • End-to-End e2e_2019_v1.indd 1 27-Dec-18 2:39:58 PM How to take better

™ photos on the trail

Philip Bell addresses some of the issues you may come across in taking photos as part of a walking group when time is limited and there is a set distance to cover.

ost of us carry a camera decide quickly which format to use; around today, so whether to use the wide angle view ™ Mwhether you use a smart of your lens or telephoto to zoom-in phone, a small digital camera or on your subject. Then step off the WISE WOMEN WALKING DSLR/mirrorless there are some path, stop, compose, stand still, basic ‘rules’ to creating a good hold your breath and shoot. FIND YOURSELF BE YOURSELF CHALLENGE YOURSELF photograph. These cameras do a lot of the work for us, including The most common form of automatic settings for focusing the composition is known as the ‘rule lens and controlling the exposure. of thirds’ (see Photo 1). Imagine I will try and cover a few points ruling your photo frame into thirds, that can and should become habit making up nine boxes – like noughts forming as you go about looking for and crosses – with two horizontal MENTION THIS AD TO GET 10% OFF YOUR NEXT WEEKENDER FOR WOMEN WITH US! subjects and opportunities to create and two vertical lines. This grid can memorable images. be selected on your camera/phone and gives you a guide to place your 1. Time subject of interest at the intersection The first thing to remember when of the lines, in a third of the frame. walking alone is the flexibility you This placement tends to balance out have. You have time to find and Photo 1: ‘Rule of thirds’ ... helping the picture. Over time and practise take images at the place of your to balance out the picture this way of seeing can become choosing. You can afford to spend second nature as you compose time looking around you, exploring images quickly on your walks. off-track without limitations and While keeping the ‘rule of thirds’ expectations of others. When you in mind, another way to create a walk with a group, however, there good composition is ‘leading lines’ are restrictions to how far you can (see Photo 2). This means using a venture off the track. You need to trail, road or river to lead your eye stay in sight of others, and be able into the frame from the foreground to return and keep pace with the across or towards the background to majority of your group members a subject of interest. This could be without causing concerns for safety walkers on the trail, a hut, trees or a and your relationship with them. Photo 2: ‘Leading lines’ ... using the mountain. Just remember, as you walk, to trail, road or river to lead your eye look around you – in front, behind, into the frame A good tip, if you have time, is to to the side, on the ground – for try and focus on one subject by Help care for our bushland opportunities and subject matter camera vertically, i.e. taking pictures getting in as close as possible, for your photos, as they may appear of people, trees, birds, flowers, or moving around to isolate and quickly giving you limited time to anything you want to focus attention highlight the subject (see Photo 3 Join a local bushcare group, adopt a bushcare site or learn bushcare skills for your property make a decision, grab your camera on vertical lines. Landscape means on the next page). Get down low or or phone and capture the moment using the camera in the horizontal use a higher angle to exaggerate and focus attention. A practical way to help the land you love! before it passes. position, i.e. taking landscape photos of subjects in the distance 2.Composition Another technique is to use “I feel as if I’m making a lasting contribution to the environment and our community.” or focusing on a foreground subject ‘negative space’, which is the plain There are two common ways to with a background scene. As you area around a subject to emphasise format your photos: portrait and walk and see an opportunity for landscape. Portrait means using the an image try to use your eyes to Continued next page ... Find out more: 8406 0500 [email protected] treesforlife.org.au TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 15 Taking Better Photos (cont.) and draw your attention (see focus you can look at controlling Volunteer Profile: Adam Matthews Photo 4). For example, use a wide the exposure and sharpness of your view of the sky in a scene with a image. By using settings marked Q. How long have you been ago but now I don’t leave home smaller subject, tree or a person in as A (Aperture priority), S (Shutter involved with the Friends? without them. The difference they the distance. priority), M (Manual) and ISO I’ve been actively walking with the make going up and downhill is (Measures sensitivity of the camera Friends since 2012, but I had been a unbelievable. I know I’m probably 3. Light sensor), you have control over the member for a few years previous. preaching to the converted but, The best light for photography exposure and ‘depth of field’ which if you don’t use poles, I highly is known as ‘the golden hour’. is the distance between the closest Q. Why did you initially get recommend giving them a go. This is just after sunrise and in the and furthest object which will be involved with the Friends? late afternoon before sunset. The in sharpest focus. Once you have We had seen the Heysen Q. What’s your funniest moment yellow hues that are produced by taken your photo there are always membership form in the back of the on the trail? sunlight at this time are unique as ways to improve, manipulate and old Heysen Trail map books. As a One of my fellow walkers has light is travelling through thicker Photo 3: ‘Focus on one subject’ ... edit this image with applications family we had walked most of the given me many chuckles as he has atmosphere to create softer and get in close to highlight the subject on your computer or phone. These trail from Cape Jervis to Mt Lofty slipped, tripped and fallen over in more even light conditions. In and other topics you may wish to and thought we’d become members all kinds of ways. Due to weather reality, when we are walking we explore in more detail. There is just to support FoHT . conditions, E2E8s had to walk do not always walk at these ideal plenty of material available online Newikie Creek to Dares Hill Road in times, although we will experience and in photography magazines. Q. What are some activities in Q. What’s your favourite walk on reverse. After a bit of rain, the hill many different light and weather which you’ve volunteered with the the Heysen? Finally, I would say that as on the side of Newikie Creek turned conditions. While we cannot control Friends? Eyre Depot to Buckaringa. I’ve done photography has become more into a big mud slide and getting these conditions, we need to work I became a walk leader in 2014. I this walk twice, with E2E6 and E2E8. popular and easier to do – due down it became rather treacherous. with them. It is always hard to get have helped plant trees with the It’s a huge day on the trail and I like to the development of digital I’d only just said to a couple of good images in the middle of the Greening Committee at Point the challenge of days like this. Mind technology – it has become a others, ‘Keep an eye on Robin with day due to strong sun and shadows; Pass, and a day at Waitpinga you, a lot of my fellow walkers may mainstay for social media sites, a new overnight pack on with 17kgs whereas a cloudy day gives a more helping fix the sand ladder with the think differently. The different terrain creating much competition for in it. This could be interesting.’ Next even light, but may look flat. Maintenance crew. I’ve also cooked you pass through on this walk is Photo 4: ‘Use negative space’ ... to images that grab our attention and thing I know he’s down again and BBQs on several occasions. And fantastic and the view from the top If possible, shoot with the sun emphasise and draw attention tell a story. I hope that some of the covered in mud all down one side of behind you. Try not to let the helped run the Walk Leader Training of Mt Arden is superb. his body. He was not amused which balanced image. This means the tips I have outlined here, which have sunshine directly into the camera nights for the last two years. I’m the made it even harder for me to keep camera will select three things: been useful in my photographic Q. What’s a favourite walk other lens. Take photos in the shadows coordinator of End-to-End12. a straight face. Trying to control Aperture (F stop) – the amount journey, may give you more than on the Heysen Trail? to attain an even light on the face myself was useless. I had tears of light coming through the lens; confidence to see an image that At the moment of your subject. This may mean you rolling down my face and even now Shutter speed – the length of time not only will create a memorable my favourite day are facing into the sun or on the Unique Burra Accommodation two years on I still crack up laughing the lens lets light into the sensor; moment, but one that you can share walk would have to side. A flash will assist in filling in or when reminiscing. Thankfully, Robin ISO – sensitivity setting for the light with your fellow walkers. be The Tarn Shelf brightening the subject. does see the funnier side of it now. conditions, i.e. whether bright or Circuit. Situated 4. Exposure dark. These settings will determine at the top of Mt Q. What’s the most memorable day how clear, bright and focused is your Field National This element of photography is very for you on the trail? image. For most people, learning Park in Tasmania, important and is all about capturing The first time walking Eyre Depot to take photos on the run, the auto this walk should the right amount of light on the to Buckaringa with E2E6. It was setting is the easiest way to create Philip Bell has an Associate Diploma be on everyone’s camera sensor. Most digital cameras our first week away in June of our clear images, most of the time. in Photography. He completed list of walks to do have automatic exposure controls, sixth year. We had been warned the Heysen Trail with E2E6 and when visiting the i.e. settings called P for Programme I would suggest that once you have that this was a hard day and to be is currently support member with Apple Isle. I also or Auto, which select the best and mastered your composition and auto prepared. We had held training E2E12 and a FoHT walk leader. loved walking in walks all through the off-season and the Grampians. I’m had bonded as a group even more The Stables looking forward to over this period. It was a 10-hour Accommodation in the the Grampians Trail • A unique experience meters from the Trail walk with the tailenders finishing aralee being completed in T Wirrabara Forest, • Log fire and wood oven just as it got dark. A huge sense of the next few years • Lit by oil lamps and candles achievement was felt all round with that will run from one rchards Southern Flinders Ranges • Cast iron hip bath high fives happening as we boarded end to the other. O Close to the Heysen Trail • Bunks and Hayloft/sleeps 6 the bus. • Minimal power Q. Is there and the Mawson Trail something you’d Q. What’s your favourite town/ • Short walk to pub, shops and market location along the Heysen and why? Self contained accommodation never be without Cost $27p.p. - linen extra when you’re Melrose. It’s a nice little compact for up to 8 people walking? town and it makes me feel like I’m Part of Olive Grove Retreat Accomodation actually staying in the mountains, Phone: 0428 827 774 My wife Suzanne and Email [email protected] WALKING POLES. being situated at the base of Email: [email protected] Ph. 08 88922679 I only started using Mt Remarkable. Web: www.taralee.com.au Mob.0447 445 506 them a few years

16 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 17 26 Days on the John Muir Trail Ruth Rice describes her 350km hike in California’s Sierra Nevada as like childbirth: ‘a difficult experience at the time, but the exertion and pain is soon forgotten’.

PHOTOS: Ruth Rice n 2018 I reunited with friends from Brisbane, and myself location with the marmots made years prior on Caminos from Adelaide. Cathy decided (large squirrels) for two nights. Iin Spain and then France, to do that she really did not want to We summited Mt Whitney as a the John Muir Trail in California. It grunt her way up and down 12 day walk, allowing us to leave proved to be the most spectacular, mountain passes, so made the our tents back at the campsite, rewarding walk I have ever done. brave decision, after having unzipped to allow the curious And the hardest! done the bulk of the planning, marmots easy access. The walk up was superb; we were The John Muir Trail is a 220mile to opt out. blessed with a glorious clear (350km) hike in the Sierra Nevada An important part of our mild day and one craggy vista in California. The trail – and a large preparation was to meet six opening up after another. The wilderness area it passes through days before the start of the use of well-graded switchbacks – is named after John Muir, a walk in the town of Mammoth throughout the rest of the trail Scotsman born in 1838 who came Lakes, California. Our plan was made it a more manageable to California aged 30. He arrived in to use this time to adjust to proposition than anticipated. Yosemite Valley in 1869 and became altitude, coordinate gear and a strong advocate for conservation organise food resupplies. Some And Then We Were Three and national parks. He did not, of us had issues with altitude The next day it appeared however, map out or build the trail; in the past, and we were going that Larry was not faring well, early mapping occurred in the 1890s to be entering the mountains possibly affected by altitude. and the last section of trail was at the highest altitude on the After a couple of group finally completed in 1938. trail, summiting Mt Whitney at conferences we decided that 14,505ft (4,421m). Mammoth it may be too risky for him to Planning Lakes was well situated for proceed, particularly with a We decided we would start the our purposes, particularly as it big climb over Forester Pass John Muir Trail in mid-August for was at an elevation of 8,000ft Nearing the summit of Mt Whitney at 13,000ft (3962m) coming up a number of reasons. In the late (2,438m). We were able to find (above) and a map of the John Muir the next day. Tim decided to walk summer and early autumn mosquito walks that ascended to 10-12,000ft Trail reproduced from John Muir out with him and walk back in over activity should be less. We did not from there. Trail; The Essential Guide to Hiking Bishop’s Pass a few days later. Plan B encounter any mozzies, whereas America’s Most Famous Trail by did not eventuate as, once out, Tim in early summer we had heard Elizabeth Wenk, Kathy Morey (2007) And Then We Were Five drove back to Seattle for a reunion of people leaving the trail after Cathy left us midweek and drove to with Cathy. a few days, unable to cope with Sacramento, left the car there and the huge numbers of mosquitoes. flew home to Seattle. Plan A was The remaining three of us set off Also, we anticipated there being that she would return in 26 days to on a long, gradual, uphill trudge less snow melt later in the season, pick us up at the end of the walk through bleaker and bleaker, and making water crossings easier; and at Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley. increasingly rocky landscapes, hoped to beat the onset of autumn However, by the end of our walk we scattered with lakes and reminiscent snowfalls, although we were aware were operating on about Plan K! of Scottish moors. The going that snow could fall at any time in was actually easier once Forester the Sierra Nevada. On Day 1 we took a private Pass was in view and we hit the shuttle from Mammoth Lakes to switchbacks. Our campsite that Our planning did not factor in the Horseshoe Meadows and headed night was in a lovely open area severe Californian bushfires that to Rock Creek, one of the routes just above Centre Basin Creek, our closed Yosemite Valley for some that links in to the John Muir Trail. soap-free bathtub and washing weeks in 2018. However, after Our memories of the first couple machine. watching events unfold, we ended of days are dominated by images up being unaffected as we were of the sculptural golden trunks We were off to an early start the entering from Lone Pine, far south of dead juniper trees scattered next day, although every day was of the fires, and would not reach regularly among open pine forest. an early start due to a bedtime of Yosemite till mid-September. They were particularly beguiling and 7pm and insomnia. We did not want bewitching set against the blue skies to miss meeting the packer and his The Walk – First We Were Six in early morning light. mules bringing in our food resupply. We started planning with six of us: Rendezvous was planned for noon. We reached Guitar Lake on Day Cathy and Tim from Seattle, Larry By 2.30pm there was no sign of him. 3 and shared this spectacular from Nova Scotia, Jenny and Ian Continued next page ... TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 19 John Muir Trail (cont.) John Muir Trail (cont.)

rather pointless as it took only five Permits are issued on a complicated Contact with the business owner via minutes for them to be grey with lottery basis and available from satellite phone only produced an dust again. Yosemite National Park 24 weeks evasive reply, so we set off on the in advance, or you may be lucky The air was so dry initially that my 4-5 hour walk to the Onion Valley enough to get a walk-up permit nose bled and became cracked, trailhead. Once there we were issued at 11am the day before as did my lips and fingertips. But incredibly lucky to hitch a ride to entry. But line up early! The it may be like childbirth; a difficult Independence, some 15 miles away. permits website is nps.gov/yose/ experience at the time, but the We just made it in time for the local, planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm exertion and pain is soon forgotten greatly lauded French restaurant and you want to repeat the For transport to and from the trail that boasts a very French menu of experience. So our only remaining look at: onion soup and hamburgers. memories may well be those of East Side Sierra Shuttle (a private The next morning we got a lift to exhilaration, awe, utmost delight, shuttle service between trailheads) the larger town of Bishop and, over camaraderie and self-satisfaction. eastsidesierrashuttle.com the next couple of days, tracked down our food drop-off, which was References Eastern Sierra transit (bus service linking Lone Pine with Mammoth delivered to our motel at 1.30am. Our main Lakes) estransit.com We walked back in to the John Muir guidebook was Trail over Bishop Pass. John Muir Trail by YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Ruth Rice is a retired Doctor in Elizabeth Wenk. Transit System) yarts.com Emergency Medicine. She first The next seven days were simply It was particularly completed the Heysen Trail in seven breathtaking; one lake, mountain, Eastern Sierra Packers Association helpful for planning years, from 1999-2006, mostly waterfall and artfully twisted juniper www.easternsierrapackers.com food drops and backpacking 4-7 day sections at a tree after another. A special ‘Oh may be of help with bringing in a logistics. time. She has since done a further My God’ moment was at the top food drop via horses/mules to a two-thirds of the trail two to three of Selden Pass. Our first sighting of John Muir Trail designated place on the trail. It times in similar fashion. Ruth has Marie Lakes and the valley below Topographic Map becomes a better option financially completed many other multi-day will be etched in our collective Guide (National Geographic) was if traveling in a larger group. walks in Australia and overseas, memories forever. I resolved to stop our daily pocket bible on the trail. again preferring to backpack. taking photos of lakes and trees, but didn’t, of course. Building friendships, confidence & camaraderie And Then We Were Four among women as we explore the world together. We had planned a rest day in Vermilion Valley Resort. I say ‘resort’, but this proved to be no more than hot showers, a very basic store, reasonable food and cold beer – SMALL GROUP WALKS ‘first beer free’ for through walkers! EXCLUSIVELY FOR WOMEN As a bonus their laundry provided FOR OVER A DECADE clothes to wear while we washed • Arthur Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk - UK absolutely every stitch of clothing in Sunset at Squaw Creek (above) and early start near Rush Creek • Bibbulmun Track Sections - WA our packs. There was no telephone • Flinders Ranges Walking Holiday - SA or Wi-Fi, but we managed to access Roads are only encountered if and eat green and red things. She • Camino Pilgrimage - Spain & Portugal a computer and found out to our exiting the trail to resupply. walked in from Happy Isles to meet • Women’s Camel Trek - SA us and ferry us through the crowds • Top End Explorer: Arnhem Land, Kakadu & delight that Tim was joining us again Highlights over the next few days of Yosemite day-trippers in search of Litchfield - NT that day. included sunset at Squaw Lake and real food and beer. • Kangaroo Island Walking Tour - SA We caught the ferry from the the calendar-worthy views of Banner • Kokoda Track Historical Pilgrimage - PNG ‘resort’ to the end of the lake and Peak and Mt Ritter, mirrored in • Jewels of The Adriatic - Croatia & Slovenia In summary • Treasures of Morocco - Morocco walked back to the trail, continuing Garnet Lake. We saw no bears, for The John Muir Trail is not a walk • Other great walks & adventures... north for the next nine days, again which we were relieved, although in the park for most of us. Level over several mountain passes, we were diligent with packing all our sections of the trail are rare, www.adventurouswomen.com.au endless lakes and streams and, as food and scented items into bear- particularly in the first three weeks, [email protected] the elevations lessened, golden proof canisters each night. despite the track being amazingly Ph: 1300 388 419 meadows. The traffic on the trail well engineered over ascents and increased as entry points became And Then We Were Five descents. While stony over the more frequent and accessible, We were very ready to exit by Day passes, the trail is full of bull dust, with more pressure on campsites 26. Although we were still enjoying stirred up with every footstep, and and toileting spots. Nonetheless, ourselves, we opted not to take a resulting in our being filthy every it was still very much a wilderness planned side-track to Cloud’s Rest. day. Washing our clothes seemed experience. The entire 220 miles It seemed more imperative to meet Friends of the Heysen Trail receive 10% discount of the John Muir Trail has no roads. up with Cathy as soon as possible Continued next page ... 20 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 21 A Symphony in Four Parts: Native plants to look for on the trail Mary Lane explains that both these species of plants can be found over much of the Heysen Trail The Great South West Walk and close observation is rewarded when you look at their exquisite flowers. Anne Kirk takes us on a 100km walk through the highlights of the Great South West Walk between Nelson and Portland in Victoria. Astroloma humifusum (Cranberry Heath) Pimelea Sp (Riceflowers)

he Great South West Walk with the previous day, the ground PHOTOS: has been described as a was soft underfoot which made Tsymphony in four parts: walking easy. We could hear the capes and bays, forests, rivers, wind in the top of the trees as beaches. It is a 250km loop walk we walked through the bracken Anne Kirk around the south west of Victoria understorey, quite sheltered from between Portland and Nelson, the wind. Moleside Camp proved through the traditional lands of the a beautiful morning tea stop by Gunditjmara people. the Glenelg River, close to the

PHOTOS: Julie Stapleton Moleside Falls. There were lots of Arranged by Simon and Jenny interesting fungi on this walk, but ranberry Heath is a delightful ground hugging plant hese elegant low shrubs (to 1.5m) can be seen Cameron for Friends to see the the moisture also meant that we that forms a dense mat with flat blue-green leaves through heath and woodland areas right from highlights of the Great South West saw our first leeches. We had a very and tubular red-pink flowers. The fruit is small and the Fleurieu up to the lower Flinders Ranges. Walk, the trip was over nine days, C pretty setting for lunch at Saunder’s is an Aboriginal food resource. Often these plants are the T with six days allocated to walking The drooping heads of usually white/cream/pink Landing, gazing at the river. first to flower after the autumn rains and are commonly tubular flowers are found at the end of the branches, just over 100kms. Bus driver Gavin found over the whole Heysen Trail. Other species with usually narrow blue-green leaves up the stems. Rufus set the standard for the week The following day we left Mt of native heath are also widespread e.g. Astroloma Flowering is from winter through to spring. There are on the drive down to Mt Gambier Gambier to travel to Portland, conostephioides. several outwardly similar species, some of which are with his knowledge of the region walking 8kms around three loop Botanical information from Focus on Flora by the toxic. and his ability to find the best cafes. paths at Mt Richmond on the Kersbrook Landcare Group way. The bus travellers enjoyed a On 1st May we had our first taste stop at the Nelson Kiosk while the of the Great South West Walk when rest of the walkers waited in the Camel Treks we drove over the Victorian border. Mt Richmond car park. Here we We walked from Laslett’s Landing encountered our first koalas and on the beautiful Glenelg River back Transport & Removals almost all the walkers had close Flinders & Beyond to Nelson. Simon described this encounters with leeches. Mostly this Passenger Transport 16.5km walk as ‘flat, flat, flat’. It was involved flicking leeches off outer a delight to walk along the top of clothing. Gavin walked a little way Specialists the limestone cliffs that guide the with us and was the first to attract Glenelg River to Nelson. Surprisingly a leech on his neck. Unfortunately, a small part of this walk took us Peter Deacon took the prize for back to SA near Hirth’s Landing. We supplying the most blood to the also were surprised to see snakes leech population. So I now have (From top) Cape Nelson Lighthouse; as the day wasn’t warm. Though my own leech stories and advice. forest near Moleside Camp; Glenelg Simon had warned us to prepare for If you are on blood thinners (Peter River; and collecting rubbish from Join us in 2019 or 2020 on a trek to Lake Frome or complete leeches, I personally enjoyed the and Paul), having a GP with a well- the beach at Bridgewater Bay the Heysen Trail remote section ‘Beyond Heysen’. Explore the snake encounter as the leech stories stocked First Aid kit (Julian), is that my fellow walkers delighted in hidden treasures of the Flinders Ranges with camels carrying Regular Bus Services between Adelaide essential. Leeches are little black Saturday 4th May was our rest sharing sounded scarier. We also day as the fine weather turned to all of the equipment. Trek through gum lined creek beds, & Copley, and the towns in-between critters that don’t hurt, won’t kill spotted lizards and butterflies. We you, love blood and aren’t as pretty overcast skies and showers. The towering gorges, rare geological formations and sparkling dry - passenger/freight timetables on our website. finished our walk with drinks and ice as snakes. Maritime Museum, tram rides, lakes. See native flora and fauna in its natural habitat and creams at the Nelson Kiosk and then shops and smaller walks kept Larger group? - then hire a bus. The Mt Richmond walk took us experience the magnificent outback night skies. had a short drive to the lookout at everyone occupied. But the best through contrasting fern gullies and Walking treks fully catered, swags and transfers included. Discovery Bay to enjoy the view of entertainment was the nautical drier terrain with amazing views this beautiful beach. theme that Simon had arranged; No roads, no vehicles, no mobile reception; detach from towards the Bridgewater Cape and fish and chips, nautical jokes and hectic everyday life and enjoy this unforgettable experience [email protected] The next day took us to the middle wind farms where we would walk sea shanties, with Adam and Simon that will create memories to last a life time. For more www.genesistransport.com.au reaches of the Glenelg River, next. That night we celebrated our walking 20km from Inkpot to the showing their singing prowess. information: arrival at Portland, the oldest town PS Moving? we now do removals too Post and Rail Track. The Inkpot is a Phone: (08) 8648 3713 in Victoria, at Macs Hotel, a historic Our fourth walking day was 21kms - please ring for a quote crater filled with ink coloured water hotel with a lot of character and from the Tarragal Caves to Shelley Email: [email protected] caused by decaying vegetation. As yummy bar food. Continued next page ...

22 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 23 Great South West Walk (cont.) PHOTO:

Beach. We walked up to the open took us off the beach and Book Review

caves from the road and started onto a beautiful cliff top Simon Cameron our hike along this spectacular walk to the Cape Nelson A US perspective on thru-walking the Heysen coastline. The paths were rocky Lighthouse. with many ups and downs. The rain Greg Martin reviews Richard Savage’s Walkers Follow Fence; Thru-Hiking the Heysen Trail. stayed away but the clouds were Our last walk was 20kms WARNING: You could put is that Richard’s walking season quite dramatic. The wildlife was from Cape Nelson to on weight reading this book. in and around Tennessee is also varied with Eastern Grey kangaroos, Portland. Starting at the Richard Savage expends autumn and winter. However, red necked wallabies, seals and Lighthouse and walking considerable effort writing thru-hiking – from end to end seabirds. Morning tea was at White’s along the coastline, about the food he bought – is common on the longer Beach where there was a memorial we all walked together along the Heysen. And he is not walking trails in the US such as to the Marie, shipwrecked in 1851 for the first time. Gavin discussing muesli, dried nuts the Appalachian Trail and the with the loss of all on board; one had organised a much and lentils. Jumbo chocolate Pacific Crest Trail. Richard was of many shipwrecks along this appreciated morning tea chip muffins, devoured outside surprised to encounter so few coastline. The Petrified Forest was of cakes and hot drinks. Coles at Bridgwater, and huge fellow thru-hikers on the Heysen. like a moonscape. Not actually a This section of the walk fried breakfasts at cafes and It was not until Mount Bryan, forest, but hollow tubes of limestone took us through the aptly pubs in towns along the trail are some 600kms into his 2013 eroded over millions of years. named Enchanted Forest. described with relish. (Richard hike, that he met his first long- The walk took us around Cape The wind turbines were with us all The Sou’westers were Adam recommends the breakfast at the distance walker. Bridgewater which is the highest cliff day and operating, so we could hear Matthews, Anne Kirk, Barry Wood, Cathy Joyce, Daniel Jardine, Dean Cudlee Creek Café as one of the Richard Savage’s book is available in Victoria at 135m above the ocean. their hum as the blades turned. A I admire Richard’s candidness as he Mortimer, Jenny Cameron, Julia best-kept secrets along the trail.) for $25 plus postage from the We stopped at the Bridgewater lovely lunch spot overlooking the freely admits to making mistakes. bay and then lots of steps up and McLachlan, Krystyna Hevko, Mark Friends’ website heysentrail.asn.au Kiosk where some lingered, while rom Tennessee in the US, For example, he left his boots in down took us back to Portland. Most Curtis, Melanie Sjoberg, Mike others continued walking along the Richard Savage first visited The book adopts a pleasingly the US and had to settle for a newly walkers finish on the outskirts of Joyce, Paul Bond, Paul Cahalan, beach with a Frisbee. Australia in 2001 and, while in purchased pair half a size too small; Pauleen Bond, Peter Deacon, Peter informal tone even though it has a Portland, but six walkers continued a F he lost his sleeping mat on the SA, did a few sections of the Heysen somewhat rigid structure with each The next walk took us the 17kms further 4kms to the official end post Solomon, Robin Sharland, Sandy Trail on the South Coast and in the section covering one day’s walk. He first day; and missed trail markers from Shelley Beach to Cape Nelson. at the Portland Information Centre Wood, Simon Cameron, Steve Flinders. In 2004, he came back does not limit himself to that day’s on many occasions due to his not We started with a 4km beach walk, where Gavin rescued them as the Wilkinson and Vicki Cahalan. with his sister Linda and her friend description but often digresses up paying enough attention. but after a kilometre it began to rain set in. Louise to thru-walk the Heysen. He rain. We sheltered under a rocky References and down the trail, and back to Interestingly, there are no photos in finished alone and returned in 2006 outcrop, eating our morning tea The final farewell dinner was held The Great South West Walk was previous walks in 2004 and 2006. the book, not even black and white to complete the trail again. By this while the rain passed. We were at a bistro overlooking the harbour developed in the late 1970s by Richard will begin discussing the shots embedded in the text which, third visit he had decided to write very lucky to see about 50 Hooded before everyone departed the Portland High School Principal, amount of food he is carrying and I assume, would not have increased a book about the Heysen. After his Plovers along this stretch of beach, next day. We’d seen a variety Bill Golding, and Chief District when he can next restock. This will the cost of the book. Also, from an first draft, Richard realised there along with other seabirds. But there of landscapes and wildlife and Ranger, Sam Bruton. The Friends lead to a discussion on the towns he Australian reader’s point of view it were things he needed to visit and was also a lot of rubbish washed thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. of the Great South West Walk still found easy to restock and, smaller would have been interesting to have do before completing the book. So up on the beach and Dean inspired The Great South West Walk offers comprise mostly former Portland towns such as Melrose, Spalding more comparisons with US walking he returned to Australia in 2013 and us to collect what we could carry opportunities to walk the full 250km High School students. The trail and Hawker, where it was more trails. walked the Heysen Trail for a third in bags, backpacks, pockets or on loop, day walks or short loop walks. comprises short two-hour loop difficult to find the food he wanted. Extended walks with Friends are a time. Richard kindly donated 50 books our shoulders. Bushwalkers should walks, 14 full-day walks or the whole As an Australian reader I found great way to renew friendships and to the Friends, even paying for the always leave the country as we find 250km loop that begins and ends in Walkers Follow Fence; Thru-Hiking myself wanting more details on how explore new places. As Simon and freight to get them to Adelaide. it, so it was satisfying to leave this Portland. the Heysen Trail concentrates on the Heysen compares to similar US Jenny had promised, this was truly a All sales of the book, through the beach a little better than we found For more details: http:// this last hike in 2013, but his two walking trails, but Richard’s aim is highlight walk in so many ways. Friends’ website, goes to supporting it. A steep walk up the sand dunes greatsouthwestwalk.com previous hikes, in 2004 and 2006, to introduce the Heysen Trail to US Friends’ activities in promoting and inform the narrative. readers. One interesting similarity maintaining the Heysen Trail.

Accommodation Nunn Road, Myponga along the Heysen Trail 2 self contained cabins with queen bed and single sofa ~ Reverse cycle air-conditioning Complimentary beer and wine upon arrival ~ Provisions for a cooked breakfast • Location: 5kms from Bundaleer Reservior in Mid North SA. Close to Heysen & Mawson Trails BBQ & outdoor setting ~ Mention this ad and get 10% discount • Comfortable accommodation in the Farm Homestead, includes continental breakfast New to Heysen’s Rest 4 brand new single rooms on the Heysen’s Trail • Evening meals available – pre booking required Rooms include Ensuite, TV, fridge, king single bed, reverse cycle air condtioning and tea and coffee provided Your Hosts: Harry & Sandy Osborn • Cater for walkers – transfers available by prior arrangement 1029 Pipeline Rd, Gulnare • Powered & non powered sites for self contained caravans [email protected] ; 0417 813 095 • Tent sites www.ossiesfarmstay.com

24 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 25

Welcome New Members he President and the Council would like to extend a warm welcome to the following 95 members who have joined the Friends since the last edition of Trailwalker, and urge them to become involved in the voluntary, Five Days on NZ’s Routeburn Twalking and social aspects of the organisation. Imran Ali Elise Dodd Annie Knappstein Amy Neumann Madeleine Seith and Greenstone Tracks Inez Ali Julian Evanochko Carolyn Kollosche Nick Newland Deborah Skelly After walking the Milford Track with the Milton & Otago Rotary Day 1: Routeburn River Olive Ali Rudy Farrugia Anastasia Kulbida Bridget O’Donnell Ken Smith Tramping Club last year, Adam & Suzanne Matthews decided to join and the view from the Cherry Bailey Alison Forrest Vladimir Kurnar Barry O’Malley Sharon Summers them this year for the Routeburn and Greenstone Tracks. balcony of the DOC hut; Tina Behnke Eleanor Garnett Andrew Lovell Ian Patterson Theresa Surman Day 2: Adam and Suzanne at Lake Harris Barbara Bryant Lorraine Gilbert Ann Marquard Lesley Patterson Phil Tait PHOTOS: Adam Matthews e flew into Queenstown, on New Zealand’s Naomi Burgess Jane Giles Denise Marshall Andrew Peet Manuela Tamburin South Island, where we were picked up by the Emily Burrows Sarah Giles Hamish Masterman Leanne Peet Tim Tonkin bus coming through from Dunedin. After a night Allyson Carpenter Alexandra Jane Materne Graeme Peoples Pamela Uppill W at the Glenorchy pub, where we enjoyed an evening meal Martin Castilla Goldsworthy Ross McDougall Tara Peoples Pierre Urlings and breakfast the next morning with our fellow trampers, Miriam Castilla Kerry Gormlie Jane McKie Brenda Pozium Andrea van de Water we were ready to go. Having a bit of time before the walk started was a nice way to meet and make friends with those Baden Greer Angela Pringle Keith Vance Judy Chapple Scott McKone we would be walking with for the next five days. Liz Christie Kellie Gregory Paul Monaghan Christina Rickard Michael Vawser Sarah Coolen Carolyn Guerin Leonie Moore Ngaire Ritchie Elaine Waddell Day 1. Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Falls Hut David Crawford Wendy Hosking Jim Morran Verona Ritossa Helen Walker (10.4kms/3.5 hours) Nicole Crawford Andrew Hughes Lachlan Morris Aidalyn Roberts Michael Walker After a half-hour bus ride we were at the start of the trail, Margaret Kellett keen and eager to get going. We had a leader who went Sue Demianyk Denise Ness David J Roberts Don Wallis ahead and got the billy on and a tailender who made sure Nitin Dhawan Jenni King Philip Ness Janet Roberts Liam Wallis none were left behind. Apart from that you could walk Andrea Rowe Selina Watson along at your leisure. We had the traditional photo taken at Have you considered Simon Rowe Mani White the start then we were off. Life Membership? Andrew Rutherford Cate Woods I decided I was going to pace myself and take in everything FLINDERS RANGES BED and BREAKFAST this beautiful part of the world has to offer, whereas f you’re considering joining the Friends of the Suzanne took off like a rocket and was not seen again till 72B Arkaba Street, Hawker, SA 5434 Heysen Trail or renewing your membership, why morning tea. not think about becoming a Life Member. Life • Recently Fully Refurbished I A gentle stroll with a few undulations alongside the Membership costs $250. If you’re walking with an E2E • 2 bedrooms (1 x Queen, 1 x Double Routeburn River for the first half of the day was a nice way group you’re likely to be renewing your membership + 2 x Single Euro Beds) for the next six years at least and, of course, we’d love to ease into our tramp. Quite heavy tree cover restricted • Superbly Presented you to continue to be involved with the Friends long any views but when we got to Routeburn Flats, where after you’ve completed the trail. So Life Membership Please phone 045 858 1353 morning tea was set up, we got a taste of things to come. makes sense. It saves you a lot of time and us the need for further details and bookings. The valley floor opened up to a wide, grassy plain with a to send out renewal reminders. And it helps the Friends Email: [email protected] backdrop of snow-capped mountains and blue skies. The fund their activities in promoting and maintaining the last three kilometres was all uphill but on well-graded tracks Heysen Trail. so we were at our first night’s Department of Conservation (DOC) hut before we knew it. If you’re joining or renewing, please think about Life Membership. You can join online at heysentrail.asn.au Routeburn Falls is situated on the side of a mountain with a long verandah to take in the magnificent alpine views. Even MT BROWN ACCOMMODATION though the price of the DOC huts has doubled for overseas guests this year, I couldn’t imagine wanting to be anywhere else at this point. Indulge yourself on the trail... Day 2. Routeburn Falls to Lake McKenzie Stay at (12.4kms/7.5 hours) ‘The Carriage’ A steady climb for the first one and a half hours to Harris at Catninga Saddle was ahead of us today. With clear blue skies and unbelievable scenery, everyone was in high spirits. Before • VINTAGE RAIL CARRIAGE starting the walk I decided to limit myself to a certain • ENSUITE, QUEEN BED, ELECTRIC BLANKET amount of photos per day as I had a new camera and was Stay on the trail at ‘Catninga Hut’ • CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST unsure how many shots I could take on one battery life. • KITCHENETTE • 4 CAMP BEDS • WOOD STOVE • GAS BBQ (Note: I ruined two cameras last year on the Milford Track • CAMP SHOWER • FLUSH TOILET due to getting them wet.) That decision only lasted about the first half of the day as the scenery was just too good T: 0458 436 363 or 08 8643 6327 E: [email protected] For more information: www.catninga.com not to keep taking photos. Continued next page ... 26 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 PHOTO: Philip Bell (From left) A view through the forest floor; mud and tree roots made for a Day 3. Lake McKenzie to their presence was all around. One Due to finishing earlier than In the Flinders slog on Day 4; and valley views from McKellar Lodge (17.3kms/7.5 wrong step and I quickly sank up to anticipated, and the bus arriving the Greenstone Track This poem by Ross Jackson was originally published in InDaily hours) my knee in mud. Luckily, the other early, we had a bonus hour at the Poet’s Corner 24 April 2019. NZ’s Routeburn (cont.) Brilliant weather again. Our first half foot stayed firm and I was able to Glenorchy pub before catching hour was a gradual climb, then two haul myself out. A quick reminder another bus back to Queenstown. Cloud shadows come up, a heavy gang e walked through an and a half hours of all downhill to how wet NZ’s South Island gets. It was a nice way to finish before from Spencer Gulf and The Ranges area of open grassland, Lake Howden Hut. Walking through parting company with a great group closing in upon our travelling bus Most of the day was easy walking as we were now above forests all the way with distant views of people. just as we disembark W following the valley to our next the tree line, with the sun on our every now and then, we passed night’s shelter. This was our last backs. As we reached Lake Harris Earland Falls, the only sizeable References a walking group, we enter a gorge, the neck night together as a group and we the wind started to pick up and waterfall on the whole walk. Lake NZ’s Routeburn Track is 33kms cluttered with stone eggs, our walking poles had formed quite a strong bond the temperature dropped. Upon Howden was our morning tea and one-way. It can be walked in either tap on tilted clinkers, palms and shoulders over the previous days. After tea, reaching Harris Saddle, where we lunch spot with another side trip up direction; from Routeburn Shelter, graze boulders flaked with lichen the leaders did their speeches then were to have morning tea and to Key Summit. Once again views all near Glenorchy, or from The Divide, asked others to share their thoughts a natural graffiti of white, sienna, olive, sulphur and lime lunch, we added our extra layers of round and that feeling of being on closer to Te Anau and Milford and experiences of the trip. There as we make a line through watercourses clothing. We were out of the wind top of the world. Allow 1-1.5 hours Sound. For more details www.doc. were lots of laughs and some misty- on bone-dry floors, feel shut in by now but it was very chilly. to complete. govt.nz/parks-and-recreation eyed moments when people told us red and black walls of laterite After morning tea we left our After lunch we left the Routeburn of the hurdles they had overcome to The Greenstone Track (36kms) is south of where Heysen had camped packs at the shelter and took the Track and started our trip along the be on this trip. Their stories reaffirm a gently-graded valley walk that the knotted haunches of his red gums strain side trip up to Conical Hill. It was Greenstone Track. in my mind that we should get out connects with the Routeburn Track from shelves of gravel, wallaroo and euro a steep climb with ice still on the and do these things while we can. and often walked in combination ground in spots. Spectacular views We had a pleasant walk alongside with the Caples Track (27kms) to sighted on the dusky skyline Lakes Howden and McKellar form a 4-5 day circuit. For details of the Hollyford Valley, the Darran Day 5. Steele Creek Lodge to a sunset scintillation in the brows of Rawnsley Bluff before reaching that night’s https://tramper.nz/15/route-guide- Mountain Range and all the way Greenstone Park (19kms/5.5 bare, white torsos of old fella mulgas accommodation. The DOC huts greenstone-track/ down to Martins Bay and the hours) so eerie in our campfire light ocean beyond kept us up there for on the Greenstone are smaller and An early start today as we had to For details on the trips run by quite a while before starting the unable to accommodate the 26 be at the end of the hike to meet not-for-profit Milton & Otago an older scrambler’s blurry view return journey. For me this was the trampers in our group. Fortunately, the bus. Easy walking again along Rotary Tramping Club www. a Port Lincoln Parrot on a stamp highlight of the trip, so if you’re the Milton & Otago Rotary Tramping the valley floor and forests with otagorotarytrusttramps.org.nz Lieutenant Flinders doing the Routeburn don’t think you Club has an agreement with cows, geese and great scenery. The on the ten-shilling note can’t be bothered with side trips as Ultimate Hikes to use their cabins. river levels were low enough that this was excellent. Allow about 1.5-2 Sleeping quarters were much the days later far away from the Pound we could walk across, otherwise hours to complete. same as the DOC huts, but we had I imagine things I’d anticipated a large dining room, kitchen and a detour to an emergency bridge but not seen towns – with flinty names – After lunch we traversed along the lounge making life a bit comfier for would have been needed. A Parachilna… Blinman…Orroroo… side of the mountains for a couple the next two nights. Also showers, if luxurious half hour for morning tea of hours before the long, steep needed! by a lovely river was taken and we I channel the dreams of those who decent into Lake McKenzie. From still made it out in plenty of time. might have bet quids on wine and copper first setting sight on our next hut it drank the last Tintara ports Day 4. McKellar Lodge to Near the end of the walk we came took two hours to slowly work our a shade of sunset red this side of Steel Creek Lodge (12kms/5 to a junction; one way was to the way down through the tree line. my closing eyes. hours) bus, the other back up another Adam and Suzanne Matthews Dense, impenetrable forest made With the first rain overnight and valley to Lake Howden. It was very completed the Heysen Trail with is a retired teacher who lives with his wife and dog in the me wonder how they cut through Ross Jackson into the morning, we were in for a tempting to veer left, but maybe E2E6, while Adam finished the trail Perth suburbs. He is a member of OOTA Poets, which has had a close here in the first place. muddy start, made more difficult by next time. Walking with a big pack for a second time with E2E8. They association with the Fremantle Arts Centre since 1996. He is also a regular Lake McKenzie and the surrounding lots of tree roots across the trail. The seems to get easier over the days both are leaders on E2E12. Suzanne reader at the Fremantle monthly poetry event Voicebox, and has had his mountains provided us with another valley that we followed is used for and I didn’t really want it to finish. was re-elected Vice President at this poetry published in literary journals in Australia, the UK, Ireland, Canada fantastic backdrop from the huts. grazing cattle and the evidence of Continued next page ... year’s AGM. and New Zealand. 28 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 29 Friends’ News  A cheery blue door now greets walkers CARAVAN to Hallett Hut PHOTOS: Elizabeth Oram Peter Simons describes how a team of volunteers turned Hallett Hut into one of the most comfortable huts on the trail. n April an enthusiastic crew of Between the ceiling sheets seven Heysen volunteer painters being installed and the Iheaded to Hallett to complete flushing and finishing of a major maintenance project at the the ceiling, we had applied old Hallett Railway Station. for a grant from Energy Australia to install new Last year another group of Heysen stainless steel sink units in volunteers had installed a new Hiskey’s and Hallett Huts. ceiling in the two main rooms of The Hallett sink unit was the old railway station, along with on site waiting for the  a new wood burning stove. A local walls to be repaired and cleaning and gardening naturally contractor was engaged to flush the painted. Unfortunately, joints in the ceiling and install new due to the new sink having cornices. However, after a number a much deeper bowl, the  of delays, we decided to ask Skeet’s existing plumbing and Ceilings of Strathalbyn to travel to  hole in the wall were too Hallett to do the job. Skeet was very high. The walls are made  happy to oblige and, in March, did of concrete and with no his normal excellent job under some  power or suitable tools very trying circumstances: he had to we were stuck. Just as we deal with the less-than-perfect job were considering many less  of we amateurs. He requested to be than ideal solutions, Chris involved earlier on any future FoHT McGloin from the Hallett projects! General Store turned up (Top) Peter Simons and Kevin to have a look at progress. Chris Crawshaw paint the internal walls, Reporting on and his wife Susan, take a keen and Daniel Jardine, Melanie Sjoberg the condition of interest in the Hallett Hut and do a and Peter Simons prepare to do the lot of work there. Chris didn’t have external windows. the Heysen Trail the right equipment either, but he Gary Pearce Solicitor knew someone who did. The next The Friends of the Heysen Trail controversial, but skilfully painted by day Brian Rice of Rice Electrical Melanie, our President. is a volunteer organisation turned up and quickly bored a new dedicated to the promotion and hole through the wall. Chris also Hallett will need some attention to maintenance of the Heysen Trail. makes any waste left over from our the roof in the next year or two, but As such we depend on walkers activities magically disappear. for the moment it rates as one of the for information and comment on most comfortable huts on the trail. We spent three days working on the condition of the trail, and any Hallett and completed painting the Thanks to Wayne Turner, Kevin safety concerns. ceiling, patching and painting the Crawshaw, Richard Trigg, Melanie Walking you through the Sjoberg, Daniel Jardine and Please email reports on trail internal walls and external window Elizabeth Oram for all their good obstacles along the way conditions to heysentrail@ frames as well as installing the new sink unit. A new larger table is being work. heysentrail.asn.au or phone the Specialising in wills and constructed at the Cobbler Creek Friends’ office on . estates including: 8212 6299 shed and a wooden box for food Discounts Please include details of the storage is also on the list to be · estate planning location (including map number installed shortly. and grid reference, if possible), to Members · powers of attorney the nature of the problem (ie, Hallett is now a much more Discounts are available to · advance care directives ‘bottom step of the stile is welcoming place for walkers members at retail outlets that compared to the derelict feel it support the Friends of the Heysen · estate litigation loose’) and, if possible, send any had 12 months ago. There are Trail. photos. The Friends’ office will · land transactions some who quibble about the For the full list of discounts go to: forward the information to the colour palette selected, but there Trail Development Coordinator https://heysentrail.asn.au/friends/ 61 Carrington Street Adelaide is no pleasing everybody! The discounts-available-to-members for action. cheery blue front door was fairly South Australia 5000 T 08 8237 0572 F 08 8237 0508 30 TRAILWALKER WINTER 2019 E [email protected]