January 21, 2012 Pickleweed Marsh

Spinnaker Point

Marin Islands Spinnaker Marsh Spinnaker Lagoon

Canalways (private) Marin Conservation League City-owned pond Walk Into (Conservation) History #10 Old San Quentin Landfill Jean and John Starkweather MMWD pond Shoreline Park

Bayview Marsh

1623–A Fifth Avenue, San Rafael, CA 94901 | 415.485.6257 | www.marinconservationleague.org | [email protected]

Protecting Marin Since 1934 Marin Conservation League was founded in 1934 to preserve, protect and enhance the natural assets of Marin County. Marin Conservation League Walk Into (Conservation) History # 10 JEAN AND JOHN STARKWEATHER SHORELINE PARK SATURDAY, JANUARY 21, 2012 – 9:30 to Noon Introduction ing and agriculture, like much of Marin. But San Rafael, easily In 2009, on the occasion of its reached from San Francisco by th Walk Leaders: 75 Anniversary, the Marin Con- train and ferry, soon developed servation League embarked on a Jean Starkweather, Conservationist and Birder into a desirable location for vaca- project to celebrate the conserva- tion or second homes and the tion victories that have shaped Paul Jensen, San Rafael Community town developed rapidly. When Marin’s public lands over the past Development Director became a state in 1850, century. We began leading “Walks San Rafael was established as the into (Conservation) History,” visit- Nona Dennis, Marin Conservation League original seat of government. By the ing the well-known public lands mid-to-late 1800s, San Rafael was and parks that are loved by both a flourishing city. residents of Marin and the larger public, and recounting the stories ties remain in private ownership etery, nearly four miles to the west The San Rafael Canal was impor- of how these lands were saved – and hence in limbo: their fate can- at the end of 5th Avenue. As the tant for early industry and was also preserved in perpetuity for future not be foretold precisely. There- main stream draining an almost a recreation destination. In 1928, generations to enjoy— but never fore, we cannot rest while these entirely developed 11-square-mile the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers accomplished without a lengthy resources are still under threat of watershed, picks began widening and dredging the struggle! development. Today we will see up the flows of a number of creeks Canal for navigation. The levee was built in the 1950s and ‘60s. The Jean and John Starkweather the successes and the losses; and entering from underground cul- Shoreline Park in East San Rafael is we will see at least one property verts and open concrete channels. the 10th in the series. Unlike most (Canalways) that will continue to From the hills to the largely filled Pickleweed of the Walks, which have taken us need our attention! historic mudflats, it is difficult to find any intact native along to parks and preserves that were Setting and Context “saved” decades ago, the Shore- the creek until one reaches the line Park represents conservation San Rafael Creek Watershed tidal marsh near Pickleweed Park. that is happening right now: not all Near the starting point for the Most of the San Rafael watershed wetland along the shore- walk along the Jean and John originally made up the southern line are “saved”! Although much of Starkweather Shoreline Park, San part of the Santa Margarita, Las the already-filled land in East San Rafael Creek enters Gallinas y San Pedro land grant Rafael is slated for development, at Pickleweed Park. It originates given to Timothy Murphy in 1844. several parcels with wetland quali- in the hills above Tamalpais Cem- The land was once used for graz- 2 The Canal area and beyond were opment that it is unable to flush the landward side are a series of Starkweather Shoreline Park designated as “swamplands.” The sediments and maintain channel ponds and areas of seasonal wet- eastern portion of the Canal Area capacity to accommodate tides. land, described below. The shore- (known as “East San Rafael”) was One tributary, Mahon Creek (be- line is framed by Pt. San Pedro to home to most of the garbage dis- low), between B Street and High- the north, and Pt. San Quentin to posal sites in central Marin County way 101, also is tidally influenced, the south. These are the promi- until as recently as the late 1980s. with wetlands bordering the chan- nent distant views one has while The majority of these former nel downstream of Lindaro Street. walking along the wide levee path right “swamplands” have been filled The East San Rafael shoreline itself ( ) that is now a park. – and it is that history of filling is formed by a large levee that ex- Habitats and saving that makes up today’s tends about two-and-a-half miles The 4-acre Pickleweed Marsh is story and walk. – from the mouth of San Rafael the only native remnant of the Current Setting Creek south to the Richmond-San once large expanse of tidal marsh Near downtown, San Rafael Rafael Bridge. It was constructed that formed East San Rafael. It Creek is tidally influenced but is primarily to contain the garbage supports a small population of contained within the man-made dumps that were beginning to dot endangered California clapper rail. channel called San Rafael Canal. the swampy landscape and to keep East of Pickleweed Park along the During low tide, mudflats are out the Bay. In its current condi- Starkweather Shoreline Park, is the exposed along the channel banks. tion, the bayward shore consists small, city-owned Spinnaker La- Otherwise, San Rafael Creek is so largely of rip-rap – large stones goon with its several small islands. 1989. For several years, they ran constricted by dense urban devel- that armor the levee slope against Proceeding south, one encounters wind-driven of San Rafael Bay. On remaining marsh habitat along the regular work parties to remove bay which is highly fragmented French broom and other invasives/ Mahon Creek but still supports endangered salt non-native pants. MCL held an marsh harvest mouse as well as Earth Day celebration of the shore- San Pablo song sparrow and com- line in 2008 at the Shoreline Green mon yellowthroat – all of which (landfill). are salt marsh adapted species. Just offshore, in San Rafael Bay, The open bay, intertidal areas, are two small islands – the Marin mudflats and, managed ponds and Islands. While they are not techni- lagoon also provide habitat for mi- cally part of the San Rafael Creek gratory waterfowl, shorebirds, and watershed, they are ecologically wading birds. Jean Starkweather connected. The two islands and and her band of bird watchers surrounding tidelands have been have conducted a monthly count protected and managed as the of the bird and waterfowl species National Wildlife in these ponds and lagoons since Refuge and State Ecological Re- 3 tat conservation and compromise, Aerial view of San Rafael, December 1965 as developers have been allowed Photo by Ed Brady to fill in exchange for setting aside valuable wetland habitat as mitiga- tion. Some stories are still being played out, as private landowners hold out for a “better deal.” The planning chronology below begins in the late 1950s, a time when rampant filling was taking place around the bay shoreline with no limits, and ambitious local plans were in full accord . . . 1958 — San Rafael General Plan The general theme seemed to be “let’s fill the bay! Much of the San Rafael Bay was planned for filling (as far out as the Marin Islands!) to create waterfront and ‘canal— type’ residential communities. San Rafael was not alone: this was the decade of “Reedsport” in Rich- ardson’s Bay, which would have filled 900 acres to create a water- front development. See plan for a shoreline freeway commencing at I—580 (then Highway 17) north serve since 1993. They support Island, was once used as a vacation Planning History and over San Pedro Ridge. one of the largest egret and heron retreat and has been overrun with Early 1960s – rookeries in northern California. invasive species such as broom, Chronology This movement was started by West Marin Island, the smaller of fennel, and eucalyptus. The breed- The Starkweather Shoreline Park three women in Berkeley and the two, provides nesting habitat ing colony on the islands has begins at Pickleweed Marsh and ultimately resulted in the passing for great egrets, snowy egrets, been in existence and monitored extends in a southerly direction of the McAteer-Petris Act which great blue heron, black-crowned by Audubon Canyon Ranch since toward the Marin landfall of the established the night-heron, western gull, and 1970. Richmond—San Rafael Bridge. Conservation and Development raven. Its neighbor, East Marin Along the way are stories of habi- Commission (BCDC) and the Bay 4 The San Quentin landfill, November 1966 Western Aerial Photographs

5 Plan. This was the first important milestone that brought to a halt much of the development pressure bayside of established levees, such as along East San Rafael, but filling behind the levees continued. 1960s and 1970s – Landfills Landfill operations inland of the E. San Rafael levee included: ÕÕ Filling land in the eastern “Canal” area, which is now the Spinnaker Point and Baypoint Lagoon residential neigh- borhoods. The fill material (“spoils”) came from several cycles of dredging the San Ra- fael Canal for boat navigation. A large marina was planned for the eastern end of the canal area (600 berths). ÕÕ San Quentin Landfill, the larg- est and longest operating of the five landfills in East San Rafael, opened in 1968 and continued to accept waste until 1987. The landfill had the effect of extending the shore- line levee out some 2,000 feet beyond the pre-fill shoreline. Following closure in 1987, the landfill was divided into mul- tiple parcels for future land de- velopment. In 1996 and 1999, two buildings were constructed within the refuse limits of the Photo by Ed Brady former landfill – Home Depot Aerial view of the San Rafael shoreline, October 1967

6 and the Benjamin Building, to restrict development bayward preserved both the lagoon and ronmental effects of the proj- respectively. BMW completed of the levees to “water-oriented” the wetland with no fill! ect. The property was deeded construction of a car dealership land uses. ÕÕ “Canalways,” (first called to the Marin Audubon Society directly adjacent and south- 1970s to the early 1990s – Lagoon Park,) an 85-acre area in 2008. west of the former landfill. Pressure for Land Development of seasonal wetlands south of 1982 to 1986 – East San Rafael This land is now the Shoreline Most of the existing land develop- Baypoint Lagoon and north of Wetlands Mitigation Plan Center and will become home ment was proposed and built dur- Home Depot. The owner’s orig- to the planned Target Store. This Plan was developed through ing this period. Several of the proj- inal vision was to fill the wet- Note that this land is filled to a a partnership of property owners, ects that were influential in setting lands for a multi-story office much higher elevation than the environmental organization repre- the stage for the City to adopt complex and a housing devel- neighboring sites. sentatives, the City of San Rafael, policies for public access to the opment with “canals” connect- and resource agencies (California Õ Õ Landfill at Bayview Business shoreline and stringent wetland fill ed to the bay. The project EIR Department of Fish and Game and Park. This smaller landfill, now and setback policies included: disclosed that the site is home U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service). It developed as the Bayview Busi- to two listed endangered spe- ÕÕ “Spinnaker Point,” the classic presented a “trade-off,” allowing ness Park, operated in the area cies. This project died a slow 1970s bay front planned com- the filling of upland and isolated extending from Francisco Bou- death after much opposition, munity. This development set seasonal wetlands for develop- levard east to the bay levee, but the land remains in private the stage for providing public ment in exchange for identifying south of Pelican Way. ownership and is unfortunately access to the bay front and wetlands that would be preserved, managed by the owner to keep ÕÕ Landfill at former Ghilotti site. shoreline. As one of the first connected, and expanded. The the seasonal wetlands as dry Ghilotti Bros. Construction projects subject to BCDC re- Plan was successfully implemented as possible. once owned and occupied view and permits, the develop- and now forms the Bayview Marsh the large area southeast of ment was required to include a ÕÕ “Bayview Business Park” and Marin Municipal Water Dis- Kerner Boulevard and east of public park bordering the bay. was initially envisioned to be trict wetlands. Morphew Street. The area was considerably larger in scale, ÕÕ “Spinnaker by the Bay”, the 1987–San Rafael General Plan filled in the 1960s and used as involving fill of what is now the area now developed with Bay- This General Plan placed much em- a construction storage yard for preserved “Bayview Marsh.” point Lagoon residential com- phasis and attention on creating many years. The land is now The actual development was munity. The original plan pro- conservation policies that did not developed with an office com- scaled back. posed filling the large seasonal plex and the City of San Rafael previously exist. The Conservation wetland between the levee ÕÕ “Tiscornia Marina.” A second Corporation Yard and Public Element endorses strict wetland and the lagoon as well as 50 marina was proposed in sub- Works facilities. protection through a “no fill” poli- percent of Spinnaker Lagoon. merged tidelands (bay) north cy and establishment of minimum 1974 –San Rafael General Plan Public opposition, a tough fight of Spinnaker Point and east of development setbacks to provide This General Plan Land Use Plan with the developer and a con- Pickleweed Park. This proposal wetland “buffers.” was denied in the mid—1980s set the development limits for vincing Environmental Impact 1989—San Rafael Shoreline Park following the publication of an lands inland of the established Report (EIR) led to the approval Master Plan bay levee. Policies were adopted of a residential community that EIR that disclosed the signifi- cant biological and other envi- This park master plan established 7 the groundwork for memorializing public access to the shoreline and design standards for the shoreline park and access locations. In 1983, the park was named to honor the individuals who did so much to preserve the remaining wetlands of East San Rafael: Jean and John Starkweather. 1990 to present—at Shoreline Center Following the closure of the San Quentin Landfill, the Shoreline Center was developed with Home Depot as its first occupant. The vacant land east and bayside of Home Depot has now been ap- proved for a new Target store. San Rafael 2020 General Plan One policy stands out. Although it focuses on the Canalways parcel, it also captures the essence of how the city now regards the remaining wetlands of East San Rafael: NH-55 Canalways “Recognize the high resource value of the site’s wetlands that Preliminary San Rafael General Plan, 1958. The dashed line (indicated) was a freeway, “precise route not de- provide habitat to many spe- termined.” Note its alignment along the shoreline. cies, which may include rare and Background material: endangered species. In addition, and improvements for the Jean determined as critical upland recognize that this site is in an and John Starkweather Shore- habitat for endangered species.” Paul Jensen, Director, San Rafael Commu- nity Development Agency area affected by traffic conges- line Park. Development shall be tion. With any development of located along the western edge marinwatersheds.org/san_rafael_creek this property, buffer site wet- of the site and to the greatest Jean Starkweather lands from buildings and parking extent feasible in areas outside Nona Dennis lots, and obtain trail easements of delineated wetlands or areas 8 Observed Bird Species

Green-winged Teal Black-bellied Plover Forsters Tern Great Blue Heron Brown-headed Cowbird Mallard Killdeer Rock Dove Northern Oriole Northern Pintail Black-necked Stilt Mourning Dove Snowy Egret House Finch Cinnamon teal American Avocet Anna’s Humming- Green-backed Heron Pine Siskin Northern Shoveler Greater Yellowlegs bird Black-crowned Lesser Goldfinch Gadwall Lesser Yellowlegs Allen’s Humming- American Goldfinch bird Night Heron Eurasian Wigeon Willet House Sparrow Belted Kingfisher Mute Swan American Spotted Osprey Northern Flicker Canada Goose Wigeon Sand- Northern Harrier piper Black Phoebe Tree Swallow Canvasback Sharp-shinned Hawk Long-billed Says Phoebe Violet-green Scaup Swallow Coopers Hawk Curlew Ash-throated Ring-necked Duck Red-tailed Hawk Marbled Godwit Flycatcher Roughwinged Swallow Oldsquaw American Kestrel Western Sandpiper Orange- Cliff Swallow Common Goldeneye Merlin Least Sandpiper crowned Barn Swallow Barrows Goldeneye Peregrine Falcon Dunlin Warbler Scrub Jay Bufflehead Arctic Loon Dowitcher Yellow Warbler American Crow Hooded Merganser Pied-billed Grebe Common Snipe Yellow-rump Warbler Raven Red-breasted Merganser Horned Grebe Red-necked Phalorope Common Yellowthroat Bushtit Turkey Vulture Eared Grebe Bonapartes Gull Wilson’s Warbler Marsh Wren Virginia Rail Western Grebe Heermans Gull Brown Towhee Ruby-crowned Kinglet Sora Rail Mew Gull Savannah Sparrow Robin White-tailed Kite Coot Ring-billed Gull Fox Sparrow Mockingbird Ruddy Duck California Gull Song Sparrow American Pipit Herring Gull Gold-crowned Sparrow Loggerhead Shrike Western Gull White-crowned Sparrow Eastern Starling Glaucous-winged Gull Horned Lark Dark-eyed Junco Caspian Tern White Pelican Redwing Blackbird Elegant Tern Brown Pelican Western Meadowlark Double-crested Cormorant Brewers Blackbird 9 This Walk Into (Conservation) History is made MARIN CONSERVATION LEAGUE possible by sponsors of Marin Conservation League’s UPCOMING EVENTS “75th Anniversary Celebration” Business-Environment Breakfast “An Integrated Regional Climate Strategy— + LUPINE $100—$249 MOUNTAIN LION $2500 An Impossible Dream?” Bunker & Company Friends of Susan Adams Janet Allen Speaker: Will Travis Ken Drexler & Sarah Leach Juliette Anthony Former Executive Director, Bartlett Tree Experts Conservation and COOPER’S HAWK $1000— $2499 Amy Belser Development Commission Marin County Board of Supervisors Betsy & Dan Bikle THURSDAY, Marin County Parks Department Derek and Tymber Cavasian FEBRUARY 16 Redwood Landfill, Inc. Phyllis Faber, in memory of Peter Behr Bruce Fullerton & Antonina Markoff 7:30—9:00 am ELK $500 — $999 Barbara George Embassy Suites, San Rafael Angel Island Association Jana Haehl $25 MCL members Bank of Marin League of Women Voters of Marin $30 general public Nona Dennis Joan Lubamersky Cordy Hill, in memory of Robert Royston Sue MacMillan, in memory of Tickets available online at Jack Krystal Alex MacMillan www.marinconservationleague.org/events Marin Sanitary Service Marjorie Macris or by calling 415-485-6257 Nardell Chitsaz & Associates Marin Fence Co. Barbara & Bernie Meyers SAVE THE DATE! BAY LAUREL $250 — $499 Ellen & Peter Obstler Marin Conservation League’s Bruce Dodge & Wendy Wyse Michelle Passero & Ira Chin Annual Dinner Barbara Ford Edith Piltch Jan Hamrin & Tim Rosenfeld Speaker: Dr. Charles Lester Seagate Properties, Inc. Paul Helliker Executive Director, California Coastal Jean Starkweather Kathy & Rick Lowrey Susan & Brian Stompe Commission McPhail Fuel Co. Wanden P. Treanor & Judge Faye D’Opal Dudley & Sarah Allen Miller FRIDAY, APRIL 20 Julia Violich Dorothy & Roger Roberts Periann Wood & Doug Wilson Tickets go on sale mid-February. Grace & Larry Smith Watch your inbox for details. 10