November 2020

NOVEMBER 2020

Maryland l Washington, DC

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FEATURES 46 12 44 WHY THE WHEN WINE PROS BRAND PROFILE: 18 ALCOHOL-FREE LOSE SMELL AND Heaven Hill Distillery has 2020 HOLIDAY CATEGORY IS THRIVING TASTE: mastered the whiskey supply GIFT GUIDE Many assumed the pandemic Tmporarily robbed of challenge Our annual round-up of would end the sober-curious career-essential senses, wines and spirits specially movement. They were wrong wine pros reflect on how the 50 packaged for gift-giving experience changed them PROPRIETOR PROFILE: DEPARTMENTS Riverside Liquors ... 28 36 It's all about family ALL JAPANESE 02 NEW PRODUCTS WHISKIES ARE NOT PUB PAGE & PROMOTIONS 52 CREATED EQUAL COVID-19: SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST Faced with an influx of new 15 Days to Flatten the 38 FAMOUS SOMMELIER: Curve, 6 Months Later brands, many from dubious BRAND PROFILE: How Tinashe Nyamudoka is sources, distillers push for Zing Zang is Ready to Zoom creating a new model transparency within their 04 elusive category BRAND PROFILE: 40 Indiana's Huber Winery & BRAND PROFILE: 32 Starlight Distillers UNMASKING THE RumChata’s Family Affair TRUTH ABOUT 06 42 TERROIR AND WHISKY OP-ED: THE TTB’S BRAND PROFILE: A firsthand account of CATEGORY PROBLEM Corvo Refreshes Waterford’s groundbreak- Derek Sandhaus explains ing—and controversial— how the TTB creates confu- whisky terroir project sion and limits diversity

ON THE COVER: Photograph by Samuel Bristow

VOLUME82NUMBER11 November 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 1 PUB Maryland l Washington, DC PAGE

COVID-19: 15 DAYS TO FLATTEN THE CURVE, 6 MONTHS LATER...

I wish I could say how surprised I am by Published Monthly by The Beverage Journal, Inc. our leaders’ (local, state and federal) con- (USPS# PE 783300) tinued adherence to this mask-uerade. The current COVID-19 numbers do not justify the Over 80 Years of Continuous Publication 'state of emergency' orders nor the executive orders for lockdowns. But, as John Adams would expect the numbers to plummet as BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. warned, “Liberty, once lost, is lost forever.” soon as the waiting time was over. President / Publisher Stephen Patten [email protected] Here is an excerpt from a recent National How long? New infections should drop 410.796.5455

Review piece by Jay W. Richards, William M. on day one and be noticed about ten or Board of Directors Lee W. Murray Briggs and Douglas eleven days from Thomas W. Murray

Axe: the beginning of the Information Technology Peter Williams "In 1932, lockdown. By day six, Director [email protected] the number of people Supreme Court EDITORIAL with first symptoms justice Louis Brandeis Senior Editor Kristen Bieler famously called the of infection should [email protected] states “laboratories plummet (six days is Managing Editor W. R. Tish [email protected] of democracy.” Differ- the average time for ent states can test symptoms to appear). Contributing Editors Alia Akkam, Arielle Albert, Keven Danow, Edward Durgin out different policies, By day nine or ten, David Lincoln Ross, Ed McCarthy, Jack Robertiello and they can learn far fewer people would be heading to from each other. ART & DESIGN doctors with worsen- That proved true Creative Director Larry Lee ing symptoms. If [email protected] in 2020. Governors Senior Designer Jeff Tsui COVID-19 tests were [email protected] in different states performed right away, responded to the we would expect TECHNOLOGY & WEB COVID-19 pandemic the positives to drop eCommerce Director Ian Griffith at different times [email protected] clearly on day ten eCommerce Managers Karli Del Rossi, Evan Berube and in different ways. or eleven (assuming Online Web Programming Vali Balescu Some states, such as quick turnarounds on California, ordered PRINT & PRODUCTION tests). sweeping shutdowns. Print Services Manager Lee Stringham [email protected] Others, such as Flor- I hope you will 410.519.7034 ida, took a more tar- check out the piece ADVERTISING & MARKETING geted approach. Still COVID BUSTER and their research. You can be the judge MD & DC Advertising Sales Stephen Patten others, such as South PRICING [email protected] 1 CS-$80 / 3.33 BOTTLE 410.796.5455 Dakota, dispensed of the evidence. I 3 CS-$70.50 / 2.94 BOTTLE information but had found the answer National Advertising Sales Jody Slone-Spitalnik is clear: Mandated [email protected] no lockdowns at all. Ask your OPICI rep for details: 212.571.3232 lockdowns had little As a result, we 800.562.3771 effect on the spread can now compare Case of 24-200 ml 7% ABV of the coronavirus." outcomes in different The piece, "Stats states, to test the POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Hold a Surprise: question no one wants to ask: Did the lock- THE BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. downs make a difference? Lockdowns May Have Had Little Effect on P.O. Box 159, Hampstead, MD 21074-0159 COVID-19 Spread" cites all sources, and If lockdowns really altered the course of The Maryland Beverage Journal, the Washington, DC Beverage Journal and the can be found at https://www.nationalreview. Delaware Beverage Journal are registered trademarks of Beverage Journal, Inc. this pandemic, then coronavirus case counts com/2020/10/stats-hold-a-surprise-lock- All rights reserved. should have clearly dropped whenever and Periodicals postage paid at Baltimore, MD and additional downs-may-have-had-little-effect-on-covid- mailing offices. Subscription rates: MD edition; 1 year $45.00 plus tax, 2 years wherever lockdowns took place. The effect 19-spread/amp/. n $75.00 plus tax, 3 years $100.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery $85.00 plus should have been obvious, though with a tax per year per edition, single copies $10.00 plus tax. DC edition; 1 year $36.00 plus tax, 2 years $60.00 plus tax, 3 years $83.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery time lag. It takes time for new coronavirus $85.00 plus tax per year per edition, single copies $5.00 plus tax. STEPHEN PATTEN The opinions expressed by guest columnists are their own and not necessarily infections to be officially counted, so we PUBLISHER those of The Beverage Journal, Inc. The Beverage Journal, Inc. is an affirmative action/equal opportunity corporation. Copyright 2020 the Beverage Journal, Inc. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Not responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. 2 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com BeverageJournalInc.com THE #1 RESERVE PORT IN THE WORLD Imported by Premium Port Wines, Inc. Wines, Port Imported Premium by www.cockburns.com Responsibly Enjoy

Brand New Look Same Legendary Port WELCOME TO THE FAMILY BRAND PROFILE

INDIANA'S HUBER WINERY & STARLIGHT DISTILLERY NOW AVAILABLE IN THE MID-ATLANTIC BY TEDDY DURGIN

ity fruits and vegetables," she said. "They here are a number of businesses in our industry that started and opened up a farmers' market can correctly be labeled "family businesses." Huber's in our small community of Starlight. They Orchard, Winery & Vineyards in Starlight, Indiana, is made 'pick your own' very popular here." something beyond that. It is a legacy business, one that Then, in 1976, Indiana passed legisla- T tion allowing farmers to open up wineries. dates back to 1843 when Simon Huber settled a farm in the Two years later, the Huber family did just southern part of the Hoosier State and used his experience from that. "That was a real turning point for our his native Germany to grow fruit and make wine and brandies. business," Dana Huber said. "All of a sud- den, we began embracing what we now Over the decades, the farm has ex- are coming to know their products. call 'agri-tourism.' It's become a lot more panded from its original 80 acres to 700 "Business is business," Dana Huber classy, a lot more publicized. 'Come out acres today, and Huber's vision has been remarked, during a recent interview with to the farm, stretch your legs, learn how perpetuated through the Beverage Journal, we plant the crops, and how our wine- the generations of Hu- "but family businesses makers make the wine.'" bers who have lived and are a bit different. In a One of the most popular wines the worked the farm since. family business, you will Hubers' have in their outbound distribu- Among them is Dana never find more passion tion network is Sweet Marcella. Marcella Huber, Vice President and energy for success." is the grandma of the current generation of Distribution and Pub- Huber gives a lot of of Ted and Greg. It is a sweet red wine, lic Relations, and wife credit to the fifth gen- which can be chilled. "It's our No. 1 brand of co-owner Ted Huber. eration of the family for not only on property, but also out in the Ted and his first cousin, propelling the Hubers' market when it comes to wine," Dana Greg Huber, are the sixth operation to nationwide stated (the family's wine list also includes generation to run the recognition. "What they Dana's Vineyard Sweet Traminette and business. And more and established in the fifth Dana's Vineyard Dry Traminette). more beverage aficiona- generation was our agri- The Hubers have more than 90 acres dos in the Mid-Atlantic culture, producing qual- of vineyards. "We're one of Indiana's

4 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

tremendous visitation throughout the summer. People felt safe and se- cure with us. There is a lot of space here on the property. And we're signed on to the Hoosier Hospitality Promise, which shows that you are following all of the practices to ensure people are safe and all of the protocols are followed when you are here." The Huber family has The Starlight also maintained good Distillery team: Jason relations in the com- Heiligenberg, Winemaker munity. Early on, they & Distiller; Christian Huber, 7th started producing Generation family member & hand sanitizer in the distiller, Ted Huber, 6th Genera- distillery. "We were tion Co-Owner & Master Dis- able to deliver, tiller; Blake Huber, 7th Gen- free of charge dur- eration family member & ing the first 60 days, largest estate bottled wineries," she com- back to our heritage distiller; and Jesse Wil- about 15,000 gallons mented, "and we make beautiful dry, and our sense of place liams, Distiller. of sanitizer to our emer- semi-sweet, and sweet wines. We have here in Starlight." gency responders, to our over 32 wines -- ports and infusions -- on The Hubers' distributor police officers, our nursing our lists here. For distribution, that list is in Maryland and The District of centers … anyone who called us, more reserved and scaled down to ensure Columbia is Lanterna Distributors. From we tried to serve their needs as best we that whatever we put into the market, the outside looking in, Huber has noth- could," Huber proudly stated. we're able to keep on the shelf." ing but praise for Maryland as a spirits The family has also done a number The Indiana University market primed for sales. She of virtual tastings. "Our single-barrel pro- graduate continued, "Of in- said, "There appears to be gram is on fire right now!" she exclaimed. terest to your Beverage Jour- tremendous interest there in "We've had probably over 50 different nal readers, what we are dis- other craft brands through- bourbon groups connect with us through- tributing in the mid-Atlantic out the United States. I feel out the United States. We did a virtual is our spirits. In 2013, Indiana like there is a desire to learn call just last night, with a Bethesda, Md., gave us the ability to start about smaller production country club." producing grain spirits. Up houses like ours. This high Through it all, the Hubers have stayed until that year, even though level of interest was one of together as a family and as entrepreneurs. we knew how to make bour- the big reasons why starting And they've never lost sight of priming bon, vodka, and gin, we distribution in the Mid-Atlan- the next generation -- the seventh -- to were not allowed to because tic made a lot of sense." take over someday and continue the leg- of our state regulations. So, Of course, like nearly acy. Dana and Ted, for instance, have two in 2013, we expanded our every other business, both adult sons, age 24 and 22, who both have distillery with about 15,000 the Huber Winery and the studied at wine-making colleges (Niagara square feet. Today, Starlight Starlight Distillery have had College in Canada and Cornell Univer- Distillery is producing drinks to navigate through a chal- sity). Greg's children are now working in such as our Carl T. signature lenging era dominated by the business, too. line of bourbon whiskeys. the COVID-19 outbreak. It Dana concluded, "We plan to be in Carl was Ted and Greg's certainly helps that this lega- this business for a long time … all of grandfather. So, both our cy business has been recog- us!" n flagship products represent nized as an "essential busi- the first names of the grand- ness" by the State of Indiana parents of the current ownership!" since the beginning of the crisis. "We did Other popular products range from have to pivot during those first 50 days or the 31 Stars Vodka to Simon's 1794 Gin. so in March, April, and May," Huber re- Regarding the latter, Huber noted, "Si- called. "We couldn't have anyone in our mon was indeed the founder of the prop- tasting room. We were limited with the erty here in 1843, and his birth year was samplings of our spirits and wines. But 1794. The names are meant to pull you when we opened back up in May, we saw

6 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com C

CMY

K OP-ED

THE TTB’S CATEGORY PROBLEM

BAIJIU EXPERT DEREK SANDHAUS EXPLAINS HOW BUREAUCRACY CREATES CONFUSION AND LIMITS DIVERSITY

BY DEREK SANDHAUS

here’s a parable in Kafka’s novel to the TTB. Most of its taxonomy was Shochu expert Christopher Pellegrini The Trial about a man who adopted from standards that predate the finds it “frustrating” to ready these attempts to be admitted before organization, and spirits of European products for the States. “It’s 600 years of the law, depicted as a manned origin are predominant. More than doing something a certain way,” he says. Tgate behind which, he’s told, is a series of 40 types of whisky are included, and, “A lot of that heritage is not automatically increasingly impenetrable portals. For the although genever isn’t represented, respected. You can write the blurb on the rest of his life, the man tries but fails to aquavit curiously is. Baijiu, the world’s back, but there’s only so much space.” cross the threshold. In the United States, largest spirits category by volume and Mitigating confusion is an even bigger the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade value, is not a recognized class, nor are challenge. Consumers, the TTB suggests, Bureau, better known as the TTB, is the its East Asian cousins, Japanese shochu should have confidence that what’s inside gatekeeper for spirits. and Korean soju. Colombian aguardiente? the bottle accurately reflects what’s The TTB was established in 2003, split No. Even the famously diverse rum class printed on the outside. Unfortunately, a from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, makes no allowance for individual types lack of definition for several spirit classes Firearms and Explosives during the federal other than cachaça. has caused problems. In 1998, California government’s post-9/11 reorganization. allowed restaurants to sell soju under Among its responsibilities, it publishes THE NO-MAN’S-LAND OF SPIRITS 24 percent ABV without a liquor license. the Beverage Alcohol Manual, which The limited taxonomy means that all Subsequently, enterprising Japanese divides spirits into classes and types. unclassified liquors are lumped into a distillers began labeling their shochu Whereas class refers to a spirit category nebulous class called Distilled Spirits products “soju” to take advantage of the such as whiskey or brandy, type indicates Specialty, which requires labels that loophole, and “soju” that is really shochu is such subcategories as bourbon or pisco. identify ingredients instead of listing now widespread in the U.S. The linguistic These legal standards exist to “prevent category names. Such requirements may similarity between the two categories all misleading labeling and advertising,” seem trivial, but these unrecognized but guarantees that the confusion will according to the TTB. Yet by this standard, spirits operate at a disadvantage in the exist for years to come. the TTB falls short. U.S. market, because without that name Then there’s baijiu. “Baijiu is the most At present, large swathes of the front and center, branding opportunities consumed spirit in the world, and I find it

liquor world are functionally invisible are diminished. strange that the TTB doesn’t recognize it COURTESY OF JEFF QUINN ILLUSTRATION

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as a major category,” says Michelle Ly, co- At present, large to demonstrate the differences between owner of Vinn Baijiu. “Baijiu has a specific swathes of the liquor singani and Cognac, and met with the process of fermentation and distillation, TTB. Soderbergh even obtained the official so having some rules identified will help,” world are functionally blessing of Bolivia’s then-president, Evo she believes, by informing customers as to invisible to the TTB. Morales. But Morales’s government was at what they are buying. odds with American foreign policy, and the U.S. was not inclined to strike a deal. Only A CHANCE FOR PROGRESS when Morales resigned was the proposed In 2018, the TTB announced an exploratory TTB rule change for singani announced. series of reforms and allowed public SURPRISE: IT’S POLITICAL comments. “The idea of it was to be What these cases have in common is high- WHAT A SOLUTION COULD LOOK LIKE inclusive, to digest those comments and level political intervention. Ouzo was Although the TTB “is the implementer and work with the industry to make sure that amended from a type of liqueur/cordial the rule maker,” explains Earle, who now they were more in touch with what was after the Greek embassy informed the runs his own consultancy, Enjoying the actually happening,” says Jerald O’Kennard, TTB that in Greece ouzo must be less than Journey, “it’s really a matter of diplomatic who, as the director of the Beverage 2.5 percent sugar, making it definitionally dialogue, and it rises to the level of Testing Institute, works regularly with the incompatible with a liqueur, which must negotiating a trade agreement.” In order TTB and finds it a responsive organization. contain more than 2.5 percent sugar. When to effect change, it’s necessary to have Among the proposed changes was a the TTB announced changes to the status compliance from the State Department rule to prohibit “cross-commodity terms of Andong soju, cachaça, and singani, and the Office of the United States Trade that the TTB considered to be misleading” the U.S. government required reciprocal Representative in addition to TTB support. and specifically forbid any language that recognition of Tennessee and bourbon As it stands now, it seems that the may confuse consumers. Presumably, whiskies as unique American products in process of changing TTB classifications these changes would address key concerns Korea, Brazil, and Bolivia, respectively. has more to do with political expediency among uncategorized spirits producers. “If a country wants its spirit to be than other factors. As a result, consumer The measure received opposition recognized by the U.S., they must have clarity suffers. By contrast, a simple from a Louisiana senator and a number something to offer in exchange,” says application process for class and type of industry organizations, including the global cachaça ambassador and consultant recognition, with clearly outlined filing Distilled Spirits Council of the United Mauricio Maia. Brazil began seeking TTB requirements, might result in more States (DISCUS), suggesting that the new recognition for cachaça in the early 2000s, petitions, but it would also address many rules would inhibit creativity and cause an and the Obama administration offered it of the status quo’s obvious shortcomings. undue relabeling burden. Ultimately, the as a sweetener to a 2012 trade deal. This mechanism would require a greater TTB rejected the proposed amendment, Singani appears to be a far less likely degree of industry coordination. and what O’Kennard calls “a once in a candidate for individual recognition. The “It’s incumbent on producers to get lifetime opening of the doors” was shut. U.S. market for cachaça exports from together and say, ‘Here’s what we’re doing. One remaining path for recognition Brazil was valued at $3.68 million in 2018, These are the norms and standards,’” says of on-the-margin spirits is the creation compared to around $195,000 for Bolivian O’Kennard. “Without it, I don’t see the of new TTB classes and types. Yet, since singani that same year. But singani has impetus for the TTB to change.” the TTB’s inception, only one spirit type, one advantage most esoteric spirits lack: Until the industry works in a more Brazil’s cachaça, has been introduced into star power. collaborative way, the TTB’s Beverage the spirits manual. Three other classes and Director Steven Soderbergh, who Alcohol Manual will remain an exclusive types have been amended or reclassified: launched his own brand, Singani 63, in club of mostly European spirits. And ouzo, aquavit, and pisco. Andong soju 2015, initiated a plan of action to have confused consumers and frustrated is now recognized as a Korean product, the TTB recognize singani. He enlisted producers will have to drown their sorrows though public records do not indicate that consultant Steve Raye, president of in specialty spirits distilled from grain. n a general soju class has been created. In Bevology Inc., and Bill Earle, then- Derek Sandhaus has written several books on Chinese January, the TTB announced that Bolivian president of the National Association of history and culture and is a cofounder of Ming River Sichuan singani will soon be considered for Beverage Importers, and the team drafted Baijiu and currently serves as the brand’s communications director. He is also the editor of DrinkBaijiu.com..) inclusion as a new type of brandy. a petition to the TTB, commissioned tests

10 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com OWNERSHIP STATEMENT STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION (REQUIRED BY 39 U.S.C. 3695.) 1. TITLE OF PUBLICATION: MARYLAND-WASHINGTON BEV- ERAGE JOURNAL. 2. PUBLICATION NUMBER: 783300. 3. DATE OF FILING: SEPTEMBER 29 2020. 4. FREQUENCY OF ISSUE: MONTHLY. 5. NUMBER OF ISSUES PUBLISHED ANNUALLY: 12. 6. ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION PRICE: $45.00, PLUS TAX. 7. COMPLETE MAILING ADDRESS OF KNOWN OFFICE OF PUBLICATION: PO BOX 159, HAMPSTEAD MD 21074-0159; 1574 QUIET MEADOW WAY, HAMPSTEAD MD 21074-2673. 8. COMPLETE MAILING ADDRESS OF HEADQUARTERS: PO BOX 159, HAMPSTEAD MD 21074-0159; 1574 QUIET MEADOW WAY, HAMPSTEAD MD 21074-2673. 9. FULL NAMES AND COMPLETE MAILING ADDRESS OF PUB- LISHER, EDITOR AND MANAGING EDITOR: A. STEPHEN PATTEN, PO BOX 159, HAMPSTEAD MD 21074-0159; 1574 QUIET MEADOW WAY, HAMPSTEAD MD 21074- 2673. EDITOR, NONE. MANAGING EDITOR, NONE. 10. OWNER: BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. 11. KNOW BONDHOLDERS, MORTGAGEES, AND OTHER SECURITY HOLDERS OWNING OR HOLDING MORE THAN 1%: A. STEPHEN PATTEN, PO BOX 159, HAMPSTEAD, MD 21074-0159; 1574 QUIET MEADOW WAY, HAMPSTEAD MD 21074-2673. 12. TAX STATUS HAS NOT CHANGED. 13. PUBLICATION NAME: MARYLAND AND WASHINGTON, DC BEVERAGE JOURNAL. 14. ISSUE DATE FOR CIRCULATION DATA BELOW, OCTOBER 2020. 15. EXTENT AND NATURE OF CIRCULATION A. TOTAL NUMBER OF COPIES PRINTED; AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 3095: ACTUAL NUMBER COPIES OF SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 2710: B. PAID CIRCULA- TION: 1. MAILED OUTSIDE COUNTY PAID SUBSCRIPTIONS STATED ON PS FORM 3541; AVERAGE NUMBER OF COPIES OF SINGLE ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 1658; ACTUAL NUMBER OF SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 1580. 2. MAILED IN COUNTY PAID SUBSCRIPTIONS STATED ON PS FORM 3541:AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: NONE; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: NONE. 3. SALES THROUGH DEALERS AND CARRIERS, STREET VENDERS, COUNTER SALES AND OTHER PAID OR REQUESTED DISTRIBUTION OUTSIDE USPS: AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 896; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 616. 4. REQUESTED COPIES DISTRIBUTED BY OTHER MAIL CLASSES THROUGH THE USPS: AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: NONE; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: NONE. C. TOTAL PAID AND/OR REQUESTED CIRCULATION: AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 2554; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 2196. D. FREE OR NONREQUESTED DISTRIBUTION BY MAIL AND OUTSIDE MAIL. 1. FREE NONREQUESTED OUTSIDE COUNTY; AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DUR- ING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: NONE; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: NONE; 2. FREE NONREQUESTED INSIDE COUNTY; AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: NONE; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: NONE; 3. NONREQUESTED COPIES DISTRIBUTED THROUGH USPS BY OTHER CLASSES OF MAIL; AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECED- ING 12 MONTHS: 487; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 471; E. TOTAL FREE NONREQUESTED DISTRIBUTION; AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 487; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 471. F. TOTAL DISTRIBUTION: AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 3041; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FIL- ING DATE: 2667. G. COPIES NOT DISTRIBUTED (OFFICE USE, LEFTOVERS, SPOILED): AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 54; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 43. H. TOTAL AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 3095; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 2710. I. PERCENT PAID AND/OR REQUESTED CIRCULATION: AVERAGE NUMBER COPIES EACH ISSUE DURING PRECEDING 12 MONTHS: 84%; ACTUAL NUMBER SINGLE ISSUE PUBLISHED NEAREST TO FILING DATE: 82%. 16. N/A. 17. THIS STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP WILL BE PUBLISHED IN THE NOVEMBER 2020 ISSUE OF THIS PUBLICATION. 18. I CERTIFY THAT ALL THE INFORMATION ON THIS FORM IS TRUE AND COMPLETE. I UNDERSTAND THAT ANYONE WHO FURNISHES FALSE OR MISLEADING INFORMATION ON THIS FORM OR WHO OMITS MATERIAL OR INFORMATION REQUESTED ON THE FORM MAY BE SUBJECT TO CRIMINAL SANCTIONS (INCLUDING FINES AND IMPRISONMENT) AND/OR CIVIL SANCTIONS (INCLUDING CIVIL PENALTIES). A. STEPHEN PATTEN, PUBLISHER 9/29/2020

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WHEN WINE PROS LOSE SMELL AND TASTE TO COVID-19 TEMPORARILY ROBBED OF CAREER-ESSENTIAL SENSES, SOMMELIERS AND WINE PROS REFLECT ON HOW THE EXPERIENCE CHANGED THEM

BY HANNAH WALLACE

week after restaurants in Portland, Oregon, were allowed COVID-19) caused an existential crisis. to reopen for on-site dinner service in June, Arden Wine “This total blackout of smell was Bar owner and sommelier Kelsey Glasser tested positive unlike anything I’d ever experienced,” A for COVID-19. Glasser was lucky; unlike Wesley Brown, one she wrote. “I found myself thinking for of the wine bar’s servers who also tested positive, she had barely any days about what it would be like if this symptoms. But the one that terrified her was the one that threatened to were permanent loss, if herbs or coffee undermine her career as a wine professional: the loss of smell and taste. disappeared from my life—if wine did.” Even after recovering from COVID-19, wine professionals are grappling with “It was scary,” says Glasser. “I would The loss of smell is a disconcerting, continuing changes to some of their most blow my nose and stick it up to vanilla, unpleasant experience for anyone. But for essential senses. Those who’ve regained cinnamon, or a lemon. And it was like: wine professionals, the consequences are those senses are more appreciative of nothing.” Although she could feel the far more disastrous—and potentially even them than ever. temperature and texture of food while career-ending. eating, it had zero flavor. At one point, New York-based sommelier Amanda A Shock to the Senses Glasser put a spoonful of fermented Smeltz penned an Esquire article in July “Taste and smell are of primal importance habanero hot sauce on her tongue, but she about how losing her senses of smell to people in our field,” says food and wine couldn’t sense any tingling or flavor. and taste (during what she assumed was writer Jordan Mackay, who contracted PHOTOGRAPH COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF ISTOCK

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changes to smell and taste vary widely taste with certain foods, says she’s one of from one infected person to another. For the lucky ones. She belongs to a “COVID-19 wine writer Jamie Goode, the founder of loss of smell and taste” Facebook group online magazine WineAnorak and author and says that many people haven’t gotten of four books about wine, a disturbance in their taste back. “I feel so bad for them,” taste was an early indicator of COVID-19 she says. when he caught the virus in early March. “I didn’t lose my sense of smell—it was The Science of Anosmia just distorted,” says Goode. “Food tasted A week after Glasser first noticed she okay-ish, but because I’m tasting wines couldn’t smell anything, her sense of smell analytically, I noticed they weren’t right. returned. “Every day when I woke up, I’d They all had an additional taste—a sort grab things and smell them,” she says. Jordan Mackay of stony, slightly oxidized flavor—and “Finally, I woke up and smelled some lotion the fruit was gone. Initially, I thought the and got the faintest hint of cocoa. I was wines were at fault, but shortly realized it so relieved.” Her senses of taste and smell "I believe that was me.” took two full weeks to return entirely. it’s a heightened After New York City-based wine and Most people who lose their sense of responsiveness to food writer Lisa Denning, the founder of smell due to COVID-19 regain it within these senses that drew The Wine Chef, got sick in late March, it weeks, but some don’t. Others regain took 11 days until she could smell even a partial smell, but they perceive aromas many of us into the few things: coffee grinds, orange peels, differently, something that could be just gastronomic world blue cheese. Her ability to taste again was as difficult for wine professionals. in the first place." a longer, more gradual process. “It took at Wesley Brown, the Arden Wine least three weeks to even get up to what I Bar server who also tested positive for – Jordan Mackay estimated was 80 percent of my smell and COVID-19, suffered from fever, body taste back,” says Denning. pain, a sore throat, and extreme physical Still, Denning’s sense of taste exhaustion in addition to losing his remained altered. For months, she noticed senses of taste and smell. Although he that her taste buds were more robust has regained his ability to taste and smell, COVID-19 in early March while visiting New in the morning—“Sometimes I would he says the flavors are dialed down a bit. York City. “I believe that it’s a heightened purposefully save some of my dinner so “Everything tastes a little less vibrant than responsiveness to these senses that drew I could eat it at breakfast!” she says—and before,” says Brown, who was studying for many of us into the gastronomic world she had no appetite for wine for more his Wine & Spirits Education Trust Level 3 in the first place. Losing them would be than a month. “It tasted horrible! Like exam when COVID-19 hit. “Everything is a disastrous, akin to going broke and having bitter alcohol. There was no fruit,” she little less intense. Sweet things are a little to completely reinvent one’s life.” says, noting that she turned to refreshing more bland than they were before.” Mackay says that as someone so gin and tonics instead. “When it stopped Temporary anosmia, or loss of smell, passionate about wine and food, it was tasting horrible, it was still bland—lacking is not uncommon with colds and sinus bizarre for him to suddenly feel so in fruit.” Finally, on May 4, when Denning infections. But what’s different with indifferent to it. “Without the immediate was tasting a 2019 Domaine de Cala Rosé COVID-19, says John Hayes, Ph.D., a sensation of flavor, I have no interest and a 2016 Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet professor of food science at Penn State’s in eating at all,” he says. “You can’t even Sauvignon, she says she felt as though her College of Agricultural Sciences, is that appreciate texture without taste. And palate had fully returned. “The latter had loss of smell with the novel coronavirus is that’s the most despairing feeling I’ve all those lush cherry fruit flavors that had not due to “nasal obstruction,” or a stuffy known when it comes to food and drink. been lacking in red wines the previous nose. Instead, the virus indirectly affects What’s most terrifying is that you don’t couple of weeks,” she explains. olfactory sensory neurons. know if they will come back or not.” Denning, who has just started In July, Sandeep Robert Datta, David Like many other COVID-19 symptoms, Brann, and colleagues at Harvard Medical

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School published a paper in Science selves aren’t damaged, which indicates Advances showing that cells that contain that the novel coronavirus probably won’t our smell receptors don’t contain the ACE2 cause permanent loss of smell in most receptor, the backdoor by which the novel people. Hayes, who is also the director of coronavirus is sneaking into our cells. the Sensory Evaluation Center at Penn These olfactory sensory neurons, which State, is one of the founders of the Global are located in the olfactory epithelium at Consortium for Chemosensory Research the top of the nose, don’t have ACE2 on (GCCR), which is collecting data on the them, so the virus doesn’t attack them specificity of smell and taste symptoms in “It took at least three directly. Instead, the virus is aggressively COVID-19 patients. In April, the consor- weeks to even get up to attacking supporting cells that live “next tium launched an online survey, which is what I estimated was 80 door” to the sensory neurons, explains Dr. available in more than 30 languages; it has percent of my smell and Hayes. “When those cells get inflamed, it received 40,000 responses so far. perturbs the environment,” he says. “The Hayes says that the loss of smell is taste back.” cells and mucus layer get all screwed up. turning out to be one of the most common – Lisa Denning It’s a local perturbation of the region symptoms of COVID-19 infections. Half of around the smell receptors.” all COVID patients report the symptom. The scientists’ explanation for COVID- That number climbs to 75 percent when related loss of smell is good news because looking at objective studies (studies it means that the sensory neurons them- where medical personnel are present to is a little bit different than what they’re test the patient’s sense of smell). There going to taste?” Brown notices the biggest is less data on loss of taste, but the first difference with the category that was paper that Hayes and his colleagues at previously his go-to preference: high-acid the GCCR published in Chemical Sciences white wines, which taste slightly sour and “Initially, I thought the about the results of the first 4,039 surveys less enjoyable now. wines were at fault, they got back reveals that COVID-19- Mackay says that by day 14, he was but shortly realized it associated chemosensory impairment is back to his normal, healthy self, as though was me.” not limited to smell; it also affects taste nothing had happened. But even this and chemesthesis, which is sensitivity experienced wine professional had doubts. – Jamie Goode to such chemicals as capsaicin (found “Could I smell as finely as I did before? Was in chile peppers) and menthol (found in I able to get the whole aroma of a wine or peppermint). a cup of coffee?” he asked. “I couldn’t be There’s much more to learn about sure. Something didn’t seem exactly the COVID-19, but Hayes says that rough same. Yet, when I compared notes with estimates show that 80 percent of patients others, my sensations seemed as valid and regain their senses of taste and smell in precise as theirs.” two to three weeks after they recover. In the weeks after recovering from COVID-19, Mackay was able to get varietal Back to the Glass cues from wines, but he was still plagued The first week she was home sick, Glasser by the fear that he wasn’t smelling “the led Arden’s weekly online wine tasting as whole thing.” if nothing was awry. “They were wines I’d Then, during a virtual dinner party tasted before, so I had some notes,” says with friends six weeks after his COVID-19 Glasser. “But I did feel like a fraud.” experience, he blind-tasted and correctly Brown says the whole ordeal shook identified a 2016 Littorai Sonoma Coast his confidence a bit. “I get a little anxious Pinot Noir. “I pumped my fist in relief,” when someone asks me to describe the Mackay says. “I knew I was all the way Jamie Goode wine,” he says. “What if what I’m tasting ■ back.” JAMIE NICOLA GOODE BY PHOTOGRAPGH FLETCHER COURTESY / PHOTOGRAPGH OF LISA DENNING

16 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com BUNDLE UP YOUR BOTTLES OF

AND SEND YOUR CUSTOMERS HOME WITH A LITTLE EXTRA CHEER THIS SEASON.

Here’s to YOU for RAISING SPIRITS.

TR-3814_Trade_OffP-P4_BMG.indd 1 10/8/20 9:09 AM 100+ GIFT IDEAS FOR THE BUYING SEASON

What. A. Year. As if the tariffs exactly 100 items featured in this year’s round-up, and on European imports early the added value is quite creative in many cases. on weren’t enough, the A few tips for a successful selling season circa 2020: wine and spirits industry had2020 to deal with coronavirus, forest fires, and restaurant  Get virtual. Now more than ever, people are bound closures as well. But the calendar is wasting no time, and to check the internet first. Make sure you’re utilizing we as an industry are now entering the holiday season— available resources—an updated website with accurate which is reason to celebrate! holiday inventory and hours will go a long way—and Along with the annual influx of holiday trimmings, consider using photos of VAPs for gifting promotions. the retail sector typically enjoys an injection of Value  Use social media. Highlight your VAP offerings on Added Packs (VAPs) to help guide customers with their Instagram and Facebook to attract buyers. The pictures gift-giving. Granted, this year’s “curbside pickup” culture don't need to be fancy, and they will help get across the may put a damper on retailers’ intent to create storefront message that your store is gift-oriented. displays. And some may plan to put the gift-boxed sets  Safety first. It is still vital. Make sure safety protocol is behind plexiglass this year, but overall the the array of being followed to keep customers feeling safe and your holiday offerings for 2020 will not disappoint. workforce healthy. As it has for decades, Beverage Media Group’s  Smile! As people have been starved of social Holiday Gift Guide serves as a reference point for interactions this year, they’ll respond positivley to festive offerings. From bubbly to bourbon, there are excellent customer service and a smile! ■

TEXT BY MARLENA HOFFMAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY SAMUEL BRISTOW

Note: Bottles are all 750ml unless otherwise indicated. Availability may vary by market; check with your sales representative. 5 4 3 1

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1 Amarula Cream Liqueur with two branded elephant glasses 2 Hatozaki Small Batch Japanese Whiskey in a beige box with Japanese characters 3 Veuve Clicquot in a nostalgic cassette tape box 4 Moët & Chandon in a “Thankful” Champagne tin that stays chilled for up to two hours 5 Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs with two flutes 6 Mossburn Single Malt Scotch Whisky aged 10 years in a white canister 7 Mezan XO Extra Old Rum with two branded glasses 8 Santera Reposado with a hanging neck tassle 9 Tomintoul Speyside 10 Year Old Single Malt Scotch with one branded dram glass 10 Lagavulin 8 year old 200th Anniversary Limited Edition bottle in a cream gift box 11 Disaronno Velvet Cream Liqueur with two branded glasses 12 Jane Walker by Johnnie Walker 10 Year Old Scotch in a gift box signed by master blender Emma Walker 13 Jim Beam Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey with a set of two rocks glasses 14 Old New England Cinnamon Spiced Egg Nog for a toasty holiday season 15 Clyde May’s trio of minis including Clyde May’s Original Alabama Style Whiskey, Clyde May's Straight Bourbon, and Straight Rye 16 Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin with matching blue glass 17 Tito’s with a fitted and branded bottle sweater 18 Suntory Whisky Toki with branded Toki highball glass 19 Herzog Special Reserve 2017 in a white gift box with Herzog history inside 2 3 4

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1 Belvedere Vodka in a gray canister with handle 2 Zaya Rum with an ice ball tray 3 Jameson Irish Whiskey “Love Thy Neighborhood” canister 4 The Glenlivet 12-year-old Single Malt with minis 15- and 14-year-old 5 Buchanan's Red Seal Scotch signed by M. Robinson in a green gift box 6 Proper Twelve Irish Whiskey in an “All for One” gift box 7 Grande Absente Absinthe Originale with traditional spoon 8 Nicolas Feuillatte Reserve Brut in a festive cityscape blue canister 9 The Singleton Single Malt Scotch Glendullan 12 Year Old in a gift box 10 Absolut Vodka with 3 “Absolut Juice” minis in Apple, Strawberry, and Elderflower 11 Benriach “The Original Ten” Three Cask Matured Single Malt in a gift canister 12 Crown Royal XR with signed blue gift box 13 Tullamore D.E.W. Irish Whiskey 12 Year Old in maroon gift box 14 Set of four 50ml Tanteo Tequilas: Blanco, Jalapeño, Chipotle, and Habanero 15 Crystal Head Vodka with four skull shot glasses 16 Courage & Conviction American Single Malt Whisky in a blue canister 17 Belvedere Vodka with a cutting board 18 Heineken festive beer bottles 19 Grand Mayan Tequila Reposado in a gift box 20 Bitter Truth Cocktail Bitters Bar Pack 21 The Bitter Truth Cocktail Bitters Traveler ’s Set B:8.75" T:8.25" S:7.75"

For months we’ve poured our own drinks, cut our own garnishes, and separated our own egg whites. But no matter how high we fill it, our glass is half empty without you. WE MISS YOU, BARTENDERS.

Because no one else is as quick with a joke or a drink. And no one else can carry as many glasses or conversations. We miss pining for your B:11.375" S:10.375" T:10.875" attention from two rows back. And having it undivided when we’re the only glass to fill. We miss the work you put into our day’s reward. And the extra work you put in to keep us safe. We miss you conducting an orchestra with a bar spoon. We miss you. And we’re so excited to see you again.

Publication: Beverage Media Group Media Type: Print Inks: Materials Due: 8/07/20 Bleed: 8.75" x 11.375" Cyan, Magenta, On Sale Date: None Trim: 8.25" x 10.875" Yellow, Black Safety: 7.75" x 10.375"

File Name: KC_BEVERAGE_MEDIA_GROUP_8-25x10-875_ Client: Knob Creek QC Check Document Path: Preacher:PREACHER:CLIENTS:BEAM...8- Creative: Bartenders Designer 25x10-875_BARTENDERS_080720.indd (CMYK; 854 Designer: Jenna Krackenberger Images: KC_OOH_LETTERPRESS_TEXTURE.tif Art Director Scale ppi; 70.25%), KC_CRAFT_SCALLOP.tif (CMYK; 877 1” = 1" Art Director: Eddy Allen Copywriter ppi; 77.46%), KC_GLASS_SHADOW_CMYK_TS.tif Laser Print Scale Brand Mngr: Monique Ramos (CMYK; 538 ppi; 126.18%), UPDATED_EBE_TAG.tif Brand Manager None 8-3-2020 3:02 PM Printed Date: Fonts: Superclarendon (Light, Regular), Trade Gothic LT Std Studio Director PG1 v1 4 2 1 3 10

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1 Tequila Chamucos trio of 375mls Blanco, Reposado, and Añejo 2 Kahlua with 50ml of Absolut Vodka, branded glass, and recipes 3 Don Julio 1942 Tequila Añejo in a brown gift box 4 Cava Pere Ventura Gran Vintage in a plush gold gift box with mirror inside 5 Mozart Chocolate Cream with one branded oversized glass 6 Pelotón de la Muerte Mezcal sold with a neck card with pins to wear 7 Boulard VSOP Calvados with two rocks glasses and recipes 8 Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad Cava in a stylized gift bag 9 Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur with a branded glass and recipes for “hibernation cocktails” 10 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2012 in a Yayoi Kusama gift box 11 Oremus Luxury Legends: 1972, 2000, and 2013 vintages of Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttunyos in a wooden case 12 Gran Duque d’Alba Brandy de Jerez Solera Gran Reserva with branded glass 13 Boondocks American Whiskey aged for 11 years in a wooden gift box 14 Maker’s Mark 46 with a limited edition branded bottle stopper 15 Dos Maderas Triple Aged Rum with two branded glasses 16 Dolce Late Harvest Liquid Gold Wine in a gold gift box 17 Templeton Rye Whiskey in a window gift box 18 Jefferson’s “Ridiculously Small Batch Wood Experiment Collection” Bourbon in a gift box 19 Hennessy XO Cognac in a Frank Gehry-designed case inspired by the brand’s 150th anniversary Disaronno Velvet Vap BevMedia ad Aug 2020 FINAL.indd 1 2020-08-11 8:29 AM 2 4 5

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1 Cincoro Añejo Tequila in a black gift box 2 Trio of Landmark Vineyards California Pinot Noirs in a custom gift box 3 Tia Maria Coffee Liqueur with two glasses and recipes 4 Casamigos Añejo Tequila with 2 branded glasses 5 Justin Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Right Angle Red Blend and Cabernet Sauvignon in a gift box 6 Sangiacomo Vineyards “Roberts Road” single- vineyard wines gift box 7 Jameson Black Barrel with two branded tumblers and recipe 8 Brockmans Gin with branded gin glass and recipes 9 Lanson Champagne Black Label Brut in a black gift box 10 Bunnahabhain Islay Single Malt Scotch 12 year old and two branded glasses 11 Collection of three Heaven's Door whiskeys: Tennessee Bourbon, Double Barrel Whiskey, and Straight Rye 12 1800 Cristalino Tequila in a black gift box 13 Clément Cuvée Homère Rhum Vieux Agricole from Martinique in a black and gold gift box 14 Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut Cava limited edition holiday sleeve with gift bag 15 Six 100ml Dashfire canned cocktails in a custom insulated lunch bag 16 The Hive Blended Scotch in a silver canister 17 Doña Vega Mezcal in a modern black gift box 18 Old Elk Straight Bourbon with custom elk pourer 19 Courvoisier VSOP Cognac with a collectible decanter ABSINTHE REFINED

NOW A TRUE ABSINTHE IN A GIFT BOX WITH SPOON

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1 Cava Pere Ventura Vintage Rosé in a plush gift box 2 Original RumChata with a mini Rumchata Limon and mini Rumchata Peppermint Bark 3 Dry Sack Medium Sherry with a glass 4 Frangelico Liqueur and a branded french press coffee maker 5 GH Mumm Grand Cordon Brut with two branded glasses 6 Grand Marnier with two Glencairn tasting glasses 7 Mionetto Rosé with an ice bucket inside the box 8 RumChata Peppermint Bark in a festive wrap 9 Ruinart Rosé in a decorative gift box 10 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz in a classy red box 11 Maker’s Mark 101 Bourbon in a holiday gift box 12 Alfred Gratien Brut Rosé in a blush gift box 13 Rhum Barbancourt 16 Year Old Haitian Rum in a colorful gift box 14 Hennessy VSOP Privilège Cognac in a spin-open canister in collaboration with United Visual Artists 15 Mionetto Prosecco “Pop Fizz Clink” box of 12 mini bottles 16 Smirnoff Peppermint Twist Scratch and Sniff (back for the holiday season) 17 Champagne Vollereaux Brut Rosé in a polka dot gift box 18 Redbreast Irish Whiskey Collection: 50mls of Single Pot Still, Lustau Edition, and 15 Year Old 19 Chivas Regal 12 Year Old with 13- and 19-year-old minis in a limited edition Manchester United gift box 20 Mionetto Rosé Party Pack disguised as a purse 21 Syndicate 58/6 12 Year Old Oloroso Cask-aged Scotch in a red gift box 22 Chambord Black Raspberry Liqueur 375ml with two 187mls of Korbel bubbly

spirit andstilllabelitasJapanese inorigin. export ablend madeof100percent imported blend importedanddomesticwhisky, andto have always been allowed, for example, to or production methods.Japanese distillers the market, withunknown origins, blends, many other new Japanese whiskies entering industry islargely unregulated, there are satisfy customers while upstocks. built satisfy they order singlemalts—in to towhiskies—as their headline-making opposed However, becausetheJapanese whisky ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL I ALL JAPANESE WHISKIES DUBIOUS SOURCES, DISTILLERSDUBIOUS PUSH SOURCES, TRANSPARENCY FOR brands emphasizing malt andbegan andgrain their blended wereproducers forced to allocate their suddenly popular base inthe U.S., demand swiftly supply. outstripped Major winning international awards afanatical anddeveloped It mayJapanese Once whiskies have started inevitable. been FACED MANY FROM BRANDS, AN WITH INFLUX OFNEW WITHIN THEIR ELUSIVE THEIR WITHIN CATEGORY try practices anddemandaccountability. producers, and it’s timetoregulate indus- the category’s hard-won reputation, say U.S. trade, aswell asapotential threat to an increasing source ofconfusion inthe distillers demandingchange. advantage oftheselaxruleshasmany But the influx of elusive newcomers taking This lack oftransparency hasbecome BY JACK ROBERTIELLO BY in production. market butreveal dramatic differences 4). All are relatively new to the U.S. malt (Akkeshi New Born Foundations spirit aged entirely inJapan withJapanese (Kamiki); andablend ofnew Scottishgrain cedar andsakura, aJapanese cherry wood (Tenjaku); whiskies aged inJapanese of 86percent cornand14percent barley (Umiki); awhisky madewithamashbill ocean water andfinishedinpinebarrels grain whiskies blended with filtered made from amixofmaltsand imported the challenge. Among them are a whisky malt distillery, founded in 1923. distillery, in1923. malt founded Yamazaki,in 1934. flagship, was theSuntory Japan's first Yoichi, was byNikka, owned built thedistilleries oneof A range of recent releases illustrate

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF YOICHI DISTILLERY / HOUSE OF SUNTORY

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF HOUSE OF SUNTORY / NIKKA DAYS UNCREDENTIALED BRANDS AMOK “We continue to see new Now that approximately 30 distilleries, brands from Japan and many of them fairly new, are operating in the country, more of these innovations when you look up their and experimentations with wood address, it’s a WeWork types and ingredients can be expected, Suntory's Hakushu Distillery specializes in single malts; office in Osaka rather Nikka Days is a recently released blended whisky. broadening what the American market than a distillery.” has expected from the country. At the same, whiskies from obscure sources are – Kris Eliot, High Road Spirits showing up with no provenance and little MORE CATEGORY CLARITY label information, causing concern about Recently there have been rumblings their impact, especially if consumers within the world of Japanese whisky “We continue to see new brands from pay dearly and find they don’t compare to make changes. The country’s most Japan and when you look up their address, favorably to whiskies from elsewhere. influential competition, the Tokyo Whisky it’s a WeWork office in Osaka rather than “Then they walk away thinking they don’t and Spirits Competition, has set out a distillery,” says Eliot. “There’s a geeky like Japanese whisky at all,” says Kris new terms of definition they hope will community that gets it but for the most Eliot, the cofounder of High Road Spirits clarify matters. Now there will be three part, most average consumers don't. ” in Chicago, which imports whiskies from categories: Japanese Whisky, which must “With Japanese whisky there is no Chichibu (established in 2004), Mars (1949), be fermented, distilled, and aged at least legal definition except as regulated by tax and Eigashima (1888) distilleries, as well as two years in Japan; Japanese New Make law,” says Chris Uhde, the vice president newcomer Akkeshi (2016). or New Born Whisky, a new category for of San Francisco-based importer ImpEx whisky aged less than two years; and Japan Beverages, which brings in spirits from Made Whisky, another new category in long-established Japanese distilleries which some whisky made in Japan must be Fukano (a rice whiskey distiller established included in the blend. in 1823), Matsui Shuzou (1910), and Ohishi Major producers are appealing to the (1872). “Historically the industry has been government to organize taxes based more based on blending, with houses blending on provenance and are shunning events malt with locally distilled or sourced grain. where questionable producers participate, Not until 1968 did they actually have to according to sources. have whisky in the bottle to call it whisky.” “Discussions to classify and define various whiskies made in Japan are ongoing within the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Japanese whisky makers are innovating: Umiki is aged in pine; Tenjaku is mostly corn; Akkeshi New Born Makers Association, a government-ap- Foundations 4 is part Scottish grain spirit aged in Japan. proved organization of spirits produc- PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF SUNTORY DISTILLERY OF YOICHI / HOUSE COURTESY / NIKKA OF SUNTORY PHOTOGRAPHY DAYS OF HOUSE JAPANESE WHISKY

“Japanese whisky was never based on provenance; it was always about blending.” – Chris Uhed, ImpEx Beverages

ImpEx Beverages brings in spirits from long-established Uhde. For years, he notes, iconic bourbon distilleries Fukano (a rice whiskey distiller founded in ers, of which Nikka Whisky is a member,” 1823), Matsui Shuzou (1910), and Ohishi (1872). brands were being revived with sourced says Emiko Kaji, Nikka Whisky’s inter- spirits, and even today, much of the rye national business development manager sold under American brand names comes for Asahi Breweries, Ltd. “In the ongo- Days and Beam Suntory is focused on from Canada. ing discussions, all whisky currently blended whiskies Toki and Hibiki Japanese “What I’m hearing is a Western men- produced in Japan is being reviewed and Harmony. Nikka also just imported limit- tality take on what an Eastern product considered to assure clarity for the con- ed-release Single Malt Yoichi and Single is,” he says. “Japanese whisky was never sumer. Our position is to collaborate with Malt Miyagikyo Apple Brandy Finishes. based on provenance; it was always about the organization as a member, to set Buyers can probably expect more “world blending. People get a preconceived no- new standards based on long-term and whisky,” a concept pioneered by Chichibu tion of what it should be, and when it realistic perspective.” Distillery’s Ichiro’s Malt and Grain World doesn’t fit they raise an alarm. You need Before the COVID-19 crisis hit, a Whisky, and recently followed in Japan to understand the culture of what you're better working definition of Japanese with Suntory’s Ao, a blend of whiskies buying, which in Japan has always been whisky with supporting regulations was from five countries. about blending. What’s in the bottle rep- hoped for this year, but as of yet, nothing Ironically, the buzz created by those resents the brand, not the provenance of the spirit.” n has changed. who “discovered” Japanese whisky is partly COURTESY OF SUNTORY PHOTOGRAPHY OF HOUSE “If the lack of rules to define Japanese to blame for some confusion around what whisky is causing misunderstandings Japanese whisky is. Hibiki, made by Suntory, was one of the early Japanese among the consumers, we believe there “A lot of it is definitely hype,” says brands to capture American whiskey lovers’ attention. is a problem that should be solved,” says Pedro Shanahan, the “spirit guide” for Chicago-based Andrew Mondzelewski, the Los Angeles-based Pouring with Heart director of marketing for House of Sunto- Thoughtful Bar Ventures. “People have an ry. “Continuous discussions on the defini- attraction to it from a flavor perspective— tion of Japanese whisky have been taking the style is light and clean and specific place at the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Mak- and pretty sweet, so it appeals to someone ers Association, and once who’s just getting into whisky. they have made a decision, But we live in the age of infor- we will keep to it.” mation and they way people are so rabid about Japanese whisky BLENDING, INNOVATION, there’s no way the facts are not AND WORLD WHISKY going to come out.” Meanwhile, major producers The reaction to the “rev- are both leaning on blended elation” that Japanese distillers whiskies and offering lim- have been using non-domestic ited-release malts. Nikka whiskies to craft their wares recently introduced Nikka annoys informed hands like

INDUSTRY FOCUS

UNMASKING THE distiller at the grain-focused Firestone & Robertson Distilling Co. in Texas; or Raa- TRUTH ABOUT say Distillery in Scotland, which is trailing barley varieties to grow on the island. In TERROIR AND WHISKY addition, more recently, there’s Waterford Distillery, a new single farm origin whisky A FIRSTHAND ACCOUNT OF WATERFORD’S producer in Ireland. GROUNDBREAKING—AND CONTROVERSIAL— An Ambitious Experiment WHISKY TERROIR PROJECT “There are only three permissible raw ingredients for single malt whisky*: yeast, BY MARK NEWTON water, and barley,” explains Mark Reynier, Waterford’s CEO. “We are told whisky is all about the right water or the cask, but never rench winemakers have recognized the importance of terroir for about the barley. So why the blind spot?” millennia and they’ve enshrined it in law. Yet for some reason, Reynier first experimented with ter- the whisky industry considers the concept of terroir heretical. roir on the Scottish island of Islay, where F he was the head of the Bruichladdich Dis- tillery for 11 years. During the time when Terroir is the three-dimensional im- is, therefore, a most inconvenient truth. pact of soil, microclimate, and topography In the whisky industry, there are many on the growth of a plant. In the case of common reasons to deny terroir: Barley is *While most Irish distillers use the spelling malt whisky, that plant is barley, the very just a grain and cannot express a sense of “whiskey,” Waterford elects to use whisky. source of whisky’s flavor complexity. place; distillation removes terroir; and cask Both are permissible under EU law, and we For much of the whisky industry, bar- aging masks any possible terroir influence. prefer without the “e” which was historically ley is a commodity, cultivated for consis- However, there’s a small but growing the way. The “e” was added as a marketing tency and efficiency. To suggest that a spir- number of distillers who are working to tool to distinguish Irish spirit from inexpensive it’s flavor will differ depending on where prove the existence of terroir in whisky, blended Scotch in the beginning of the 1900s the barley grows on a farm-by-farm basis such as Rob Arnold, academic and master by a large Dublin company. PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WATERFORD BRAND COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS OF WATERFORD Reynier was at Bruichladdich, I was a Proof in the Glass whisky writer. I’d toured countless dis- For Waterford’s project, two barley vari- tilleries around the world and had never eties, Olympus and Laureate, were sown heard anyone talk about ingredients the in replication at two distinct sites in way Reynier did. I was intrigued. As a stu- southeast Ireland near the small towns dent, I studied environmental science, and of Athy and Bunclody and harvested dur- to me, it made sense to focus on raw mate- ing 2017. In Athy, the soil is nutritionally rials and terroirs. richer—specifically in calcium, phospho- What Reynier learned on Islay con- rus, magnesium, and zinc—than the soil vinced him there was more to explore. In Soil differences and in Bunclody. 2015, he created Waterford Distillery in vintage variation are The malting, brewing, and distill- southeast Ireland to demonstrate the ex- now visible in each ing protocols remained identical for all istence of terroir in whisky, and I jumped Waterford single farm samples. In order to achieve the objective at the opportunity to become involved of being able to identify environment-in- in his project and joined the company as whisky. Each distinct duced flavors, the team performed small head of communications. terroir shares a clear lab-scale brewing and distillation of the flavor fingerprint. malt samples according to standardized Framing Terroir With Science industry specifications. All sensory as- First, Reynier identified 40 farmers grow- sessments were made on new make spirit, ing barley on 19 different types of soil in and sensory data was collected on pan- Ireland—a total that now stands at 97—to elist evaluations and the latest in mass distill one a week throughout the year. compounds, and trace the influences of spectrum gas chromatography. The full Next, he contacted Dustin Herb, Ph.D., a terroir through maturation.” results are being submitted for two peer- barley scientist at Oregon State University Historically, barley has been selected reviewed publications later this year and who had presented a groundbreaking re- based on high-yield capabilities and flavor again in early 2021. search paper on barley flavor at the World neutrality. “Since commercial production is Spoiler alert: Terroir happens to be Brewing Congress in Denver in 2016, which typically produced over a wide range of en- perfectly demonstrable. Environmental had inspired Reynier. The experiments Dr. vironments, contemporary varieties need differences in whisky flavor are indeed Herb used for the data effectively demon- to have consistent performance. Therefore, present. Sensory analysis indicated that strated terroir effect, so Reynier teamed the idea of terroir strikes at the foundation the Athy site provided higher fruit and up with Herb to create a model that could of the current system,” Herb says. malt flavors compared to Bunclody, which be adapted to whisky. was higher in green, grassy, mineral notes. “This project needed an interdisciplin- ary study—plant genetics and physiology, agronomy, soil science, food chemistry— to enable us to develop insight into various aspects of whisky production,” Herb explains. “We were able to investigate the genetic mechanisms controlling barley contributions to whisky flavor, determine key environmental attributes to whisky terroir, identify sources of flavor variability in both barley production and pro- cessing, develop a library of whisky aroma

OPPOSITE: Signage at Richard Raftice farm in Rathclogh, Ireland, marks research in progress. // ABOVE: Barley at Trevor Harris’s biodynamic farm. // Agronomist Grace

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WATERFORD BRAND COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS OF WATERFORD O'Reily mid-field, mid-season. INDUSTRY FOCUS

A long growing season improves the chances of good Waterford’s goal is to make the most yields and better protein levels. // Author Mark Newton Waterford’s goal is // John Tynan’s Dunmore farm, one source of Waterford’s to make single malt profound single malt whisky possible single farm origins. whisky the same way as in precisely the same way as the great vignerons of France make their wines. the great vignerons of The starting point is single terroir plot France make their wines. production, to discover individually. From the Lab, Back to the Farms, But the ultimate aim is to bring these Then to Market nuanced spirits together, layer upon Reynier wanted to replicate his lab results layer of unique flavor fingerprints for on a much larger scale and make single ultimate complexity. “We are merely farm whiskies available commercially, dynamically. After each harvest, barley scratching the surface,” says Herb. an entirely more complicated endeavor. crops are stored separately in order to “This study highlights the importance The infrastructure required to logistically create an intricate traceability system. of terroir, if you choose to look for it. manage individual lots of barley based on Each single farm origin whisky (120 tons There is lots to be gained harnessing different terroirs is substantial. per harvest) takes one full week to fer- terroir’s flavor variability, not least Waterford continues to work with ment and another to perform a deliber- product diversity, and it opens oppor- about 40 growers a year, including some ately low and slow distillation. tunities for small-scale distilleries to that are farming organically and bio- With Herb, Waterford recently tracked develop niche markets.” three farms across three growing years, In addition, by recalibrating the whis- on three distinct soil types, with three ky discussion in line with wine and many blind sensory panels, and Waterford can fine foods, the industry can attract a new now detect patterns in the flavor of each generation of consumers. There have “There is lots to be new spirit. Soil differences, even harvest been naysayers and critics of Waterford’s gained harnessing differences, are visible for the first time. project, but it’s been heartening to see terroir’s flavor variability, Each distinct terroir shares a clear flavor younger, intellectually engaged, and di- fingerprint. verse drinkers approach the spirit—and not least product “These flavors, ranging from fruity Waterford’s whiskies—with curiosity and diversity, and it opens and floral to malty and grainy and earthy an open mind. opportunities for small- and herbal, varied between years within In the 19th century, most of the fa- scale distilleries to their respective soil series, which indi- mous distilleries grew out of clandestine cates a positive ‘vintage’ effect as it re- distilling, and farmers used their own develop niche markets.” lates to annual changes in soil nutrients, barley. Provenance was built in organi- – Dustin Herb, Ph.D., weather patterns, and crop management,” cally. Terroir used to matter, only it wasn’t barley scientist Herb explains. called terroir then. It was just farming. ■ PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WATERFORD BRAND COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS OF WATERFORD BAR TALK

WALK-UP WONDER

ALFREDO CLIMACO, TROPICALE, PORTLAND, OREGON

BY ALIA AKKAM

ince 2016, Alfredo Climaco’s sig- event with a DJ and salsa dancing. Being nature piña colada, served in a The Piña Colada: Made with organic an immigrant is part of me and inspired hollowed-out pineapple shell, coconut cream and garnished with fresh my businesses. has been a fixture in Portland, grapefruit and Salem cherries. Oregon,S satiating at festivals throughout AA: After moving to Portland from Mexico the city. Early on in the COVID-19 crisis, On his nightclub gig: “I was 17 and cleaned 10 years ago, how did your career in when Climaco was forced to shut down his and handled the trash. A few months later I hospitality evolve? mobile bar business, MexiRican, the Pueb- was a busser, then a waiter and bartender.” la, Mexico, native turned his attention to AC: I didn’t know anything about the food another longtime dream and opened a Family Affair: Alfredo’s sister, Viviana Reyes- and drink culture of the city. I didn’t even brick-and-mortar bar, Tropicale. Climaco, oversees the pan-Latin small plates speak English until I learned it in business menu. classes. I started working in a Mexican restaurant and the language barrier was On introducing a new bar during the ALIA AKKAM: Tropicale is a walk-up the primary challenge, but I became pandemic: “We just had to re-adjust and cocktail window. You opened with partner the manager and then went to Little Big Matt Lynch during what is admittedly a be real. It was a little risky, but we thought Burger, where I also became the manager terrible time for restaurants and bars. What about it and rolled the dice.” and met by future partner, Matt. motivated you to forge ahead? AA: How did Mexico first foster your love of ALFREDO CLIMACO: With 45 events can- the industry? celed, it was hard to survive the pandemic. AA: What do you want guests to feel and AC: My parents ran a pushcart, a farmers’ I didn’t have a business anymore. But I had take away from a night at Tropicale? market on wheels, and a little store sell- been thinking of this bar for five years. We ing fruit, snacks, and carnitas. From the have a big patio and all summer we com- AC: My commitment now is to share my time I was nine years old, my brother and plied with the city requirements—spac- Latin traditions, the colors and the fla- I worked there on Saturdays and Sundays ing guests six feet apart, cleaning tables vors, through food and drink in a con- from 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. I learned so between customers, wearing masks—and temporary way. I want to express the much. Some people think that young age now for the winter it’s nice and heated beauty of my Mexican heritage. Last is surprising, but for us it was normal to weekend we had a socially distanced ■ PHOTOGRAPHS BY CANDACE MOLATORE CANDACE BY PHOTOGRAPHS with a fire pit. help the family.

• TROPICALIA Ingredients: Method: Shake all ingredients in 2 oz Sombra Joven Mezcal mixing tin and pour into tall, ice- This Mezcal-powered cocktail 1 oz Ancho Reyes Ancho Chile Liqueur filled glass. Top off with Topo Chico. was one of the initial offerings 1 oz fresh Grapefruit Juice Garnish rim with chile pepper-lime. when Tropicale opened, along 3/4 oz fresh Lime Juice Note: Tropicale also plans to offer a range with the signature coladas. Garnish: chile pepper-lime of zero-proof mixed drinks. NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 4 5 6

1. BACARDÍ SPICED RUM 2. ABSENTE ABSINTHE REFINED 3. PINE RIDGE SPARKLING On the heels of the brand’s leap into canned After 21 years as the first legal absinthe in CHENIN BLANC + VIOGNIER cocktails, Bacardí is (re)joining the spiced the U.S. since 1999, Distilleries et Domaines Pine Ridge Vineyards, based in Napa rum sector. The liquid that launched in 2011 de Provence has launched new packaging Valley’s Stags Leap District, is releasing a as Oakheart is returning as Bacardí Spiced. for two key brands: Absente Absinthe bubbly extension of its popular still-wine Barrel-aged to impart a hint of smokiness, the Refined and Grande Absente. Designed by blend of Chenin Blanc and Viognier. Pine rum is then charcoal filtered and infused with a top agency in Paris, Absente keeps the Ridge’s first new label in 25 years, it is made a proprietary blend of spices. The 80-proof iconic image of Van Gogh, while Grande in a dry, brut style, with a delicate mousse variant is promoted as the ideal base for “Rum Absente opts for a more graphic, decorated and notes of ginger, citrus, and apple, with a 2, 3” cocktail building—one-part rum, two and elegant look. In both cases, the pairing slightly lower ABV than the still version. The parts classic mixer, and a garnish. 70 proof. of packaging with the typical absinthe Chenin Blanc grapes are sourced from the spoon remains a key component. Clarksburg AVA; the Viognier is from Lodi.

SRP: $12.99 SRP: $45 Absente $75 Grande Absente SRP: $18 bacardi.com crillonimportersltd.com pineridge.com

4. HIATUS TEQUILA 5. DANTE X F!VE DRINKS CO. 6. HIGHLANDS 41 WINES Hiatus Tequila has partnered with Massanois CANNED COCKTAILS Highlands 41 (aka H41) is the latest addition to expand its U.A. distribution. The tequilas Acclaimed NYC bar institution Caffe Dante to the Riboli Estates Group portfolio. Proudly are produced in collaboration with a third- has teamed up with with F!VE Drinks Co. for rooted in Paso Robles and named after a generation tequila family at La Cofradía, their first ever venture into off-premise retail. combination of the historic Highway 41 and located just outside of the town of Tequila. The Dante-designed cocktails kick off with the rugged Creston Highlands, the wines Hiatus is made from 100% agave azul; after a Summer Spritz (12.5% ABV), is made with aim to embody the spirit of adventure. a slow roast in masonry ovens, the agave is gin, elderflower cordial, cucumber, lemon Launching with a Cabernet Sauvignon, Red crushed with custom screw press extractors, and grape juice. The Spritz will be followed Blend, and Chardonnay, the line is crafted by squeezing rather than pulverizing the agave, by an Americano 2.0 and a classic Gin + fourth-generation winemaker Anthony Riboli allowing for sweeter, rounder flavors. Available Tonic. Starting in NY, CA, FL. from sustainably farmed estate vineyards in in Blanco, Reposado, and Añejo. 80 proof. Paso Robles and Monterey.

SRP: $43.99 | $48.99 | $59.99 SRP: $13.99/four-pack (200ml) SRP: $13-$15 hiatustequila.com buyfivedrinks.com highlands41.com 7 8 9 10 11 12

7. CRYSTAL HEAD ‘ONYX’ VODKA 8. COCKTAIL SQUAD 9. E&J SPICED BRANDY Crystal Head Vodka, known for its skull ‘CLASSY CASUALS’ E&J Brandy has taken a natural step bottle and being owned by Dan Aykroyd, Colorado-based Cocktail Squad is in adding a spiced expression, and is continues to innovate with Onyx, a vodka expanding its line of eight canned cocktails promoting it with popular television host, based on agave. Bottled in glossy jet-black with a pair of new zero sugar Classy actor and comedian Spice Adams. A glass, mimicking onyx itself, Crystal Head Casuals: Whiskey Ginger Soda and Vodka consumer sweepstakes offering E&J Brandy Onyx is made from 100% agave sourced from Lemon Soda. Both check in at 5% ABV gear “straight from Spice’s style playbook” a single farm in Mexico. It joins Crystal Head and only 90 calories, to compete with hard helped launch E&J Spiced. The brandy Original, made from Canadian corn, and seltzers (original Cocktail Squad cocktails— includes a mix of warm spice and sweet Aurora, made from English wheat. All Crystal Greyhound, Margarita, and others—run 10% cherry. Rated 90 points in the 2020 Ultimate Head vodkas are blended with the water from ABV). All Cocktail Squad RTDs are gluten- Spirits Challenge. 60 proof. Newfoundland, Canada, and filtered through free or gluten-removed, in 12oz slim cans. over 10,000 Herkimer diamonds. 80 proof.

SRP: $55 SRP: $3.49/can or $13.99/four-pack (12oz) SRP: $14.99 crystalheadvodka.com cocktailsquad.com ejbrandy.com

10. DRY FLY BLOODY MARY CAN 11. ARTINGSTALL’S GIN 12. KAHLÚA BLONDE ROAST Washington-based distiller Dry Fly has Artingstall’s—self-dubbed “Brilliant Debuting on International Coffee Day, October partnered with the famous Spokane spice London Dry Gin”—was created by noted 1, Kahlúa is launching Kahlúa Blonde Roast company Spiceology on a new canned Bloody Hollywood director Paul Feig (Bridesmaids, Style. Made with medium roast coffee and Mary. The cocktail combines a unique blend Ghostbusters, Freaks & Geeks and The hints of caramel, toffee, and citrus flavors, of spices with Dry Fly Vodka at 8% ABV Office). Its blend of eleven botanicals the new expression taps into consumer for a concoction that is savory, bold, and includes orris root, cassia, elderberries and demand for lighter and more refreshing coffee slightly smoky to the palate. The Bloody Mary citrus, with a measured amount of juniper. cocktails. The inclusion of citrus in the recipe follows an earlier 2020 release, Huckleberry The gin is packaged in a cut glass decanter, opens up new angles for mixing; examples Lemonade, and joins other Dry Fly canned also designed by Feig, who also has been from the brand include Blonde Roast (2:4 cocktail options Moscow Mule, Gin and Tonic, sharing his favorite cocktail recipes on parts) with coconut water, and 2:5 parts and Spicy Lemonade. Instagram Live since the pandemic. 84 proof. Blonde Roast with tonic. 40 proof.

SRP: $12.99/four-pack (355ml) SRP: $49.99 SRP: $18.99 dryflydistilling.com artingstallsgin.com kahlua.com BRAND PROFILE

ZING ZANG IS READY TO ZOOM

MIXER-MAKER ZING ZANG MAKES A SPLASH IN READY-TO-DRINK COCKTAILS

BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

t a time when aluminum fuels the “We know consumers hottest beverage alcohol packaging want real bartender- trend—for craft beer, wine, hard seltzer, kombucha, cocktails and quality drinks but don’t more—leading mixer-maker Zing Zang has always have time to mix The company’s position in the mixer laid down a marker with the introduction category—they expect to clear 2.2 million up their own or make it cases in 2020—gives them the advantage of canned cocktails with a difference. to their favorite bar in Already known as a category leader of consumer awareness in the burgeoning in mixers, Zing Zang enters a booming this environment.” RTD market. Each flavor has been growing market with three types of ready to drink at least in double digits, from the Bloody - Brent Albertson, CEO, Mary at 19% to the Margarita up 190%. cocktails at 9% ABV: Bloody Mary, Bour- Zing Zang LLC bon Sour and Margarita. The three, sold Single-serve cans of mixers now make up in four-packs of sleek 12oz slim cans, are 15% of total business. vaulting Zing Zang’s already popular reci- The growth in the all-natural mix- is best known for its Bloody Mary mix, pes and familiar name into new territory. ers helped set the stage for the evolu- and lately innovation has been “We know that consumers love real, tion of the brand, this time into an important focus for the full-flavored and full-strength cocktails, RTDs that allow consumers to company. In 2018, Zing Zang and in today’s environment they also want get high-end drinks in bulk re-launched its Margarita convenience,” says Brent Albertson, CEO at good prices. “Our 12oz sleek with all-natural ingredients, at Chicago-based Zing Zang. “We wanted cans have two servings each, so and introduced slim people to have amazing cocktails in a size eight drinks per four-pack for 8oz cans in six-packs, that is easy to enjoy and share.” approximately $12.99—that’s to overcome the major less than $2 per drink and al- COCKTAIL EXPERTISE REAPPLIED consumer barrier to most double the alcohol of a An independent marketer of a variety of consumption: spoilage. In 2019, hard seltzer,” says Albertson, who non-alcoholic cocktail mixes, Zing Zang Zing Zang launched Piña Colada, spent 30 years at Diageo before Zing Zang. Strawberry Daiquiri, and Sweet & Sour “We know consumers want real bartender- Mixes with all-natural ingredients in quality drinks but don’t always have time 32oz bottles and 8oz slim cans. to mix up their own or make it to their And now, for something really dif- favorite bar in this environment.” ferent, the Zing Zang RTDs are launch- Another big advantage: Zing Zang’s ing in Fall 2020 in 20 states. The canned well-established placement with liquor dis- cocktail market had been slowly evolving tributors in most states provides a speedy but cracked wide open with hard selt- route to market. “Their [distributors’] zer last year and lately with the post- excitement in early stages pushed us pandemic, drink-at-home to speed up the process,” he says. “We trend, making this a place high value on their opinions perfect time to launch, and can’t thank them enough for says Albertson. their input and support.” n PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF ZING ZANG INTRODUCING ZING ZANG READY TO DRINK COCKTAILS. The award winning bold flavor you love perfectly mixed with premium spirits.

REAL DRINKS. TO GO. Please Zing Zang® Responsibly. Zing Zang Ready-to-Drink Canned Cocktails® Spirits Based Premium Cocktails. Product of Canada. Imported by Zing Zang LLC Chicago, IL 60611 USA. 9% Alc./Vol.

ZingZang_BartenderMag_FullPage.indd 1 10/7/20 5:27 PM BRAND PROFILE RUMCHATA’S FAMILY AFFAIR

WITH NEW EXPRESSIONS AND A HUGE SALES MILESTONE, RUMCHATA IS PRIMED FOR 2021

BY AMANDA SCHUSTER

ometimes a brand fills a niche that “Fifty million bottles of no one even realized was there. RumChata, it’s so hard to With an iconic shape, signature gold cap, and delicious flavor When RumChata launched in 2009, believe” said Maas recently. extensions, RumChata has become the logical strategy for making a “When I started this com- a branded family. Its place in Ssplash in the cream liqueur category was to pany with my father using American culture was confirmed mimic Baileys Irish Cream. But RumChata a recipe developed in my by a recent appearance on the TV show Jeopardy. founder and master blender Tom Maas, kitchen, we never could have went another route—creating a rum-based imagined this.” Credit for the 50-million play on horchata, the traditional nonalco- mark goes both to an expanding mar- Besides consistency of quality and a holic milky rice drink from Mexico. ket—RumChata is nationwide—and to a distinctive package design, the company Horchata typically consists of rice milk, passionate base of repeat customers who has proven to be especially adept at sea- vanilla, sugar, and spices. Maas used fresh can’t seem to get enough of the sonals, such as the annual fund- dairy cream, adding rum and his own pro- comforting combination of fla- raising Freedom bottle, and prietary sweet spice blend, which he taste- vors. RumChata also owes a hat RumChata sleeved to look like tested for months. The final RumChata tip to popular bar shots, such as a football. Holiday gift sets recipe was such a success from its release, the Cinnamon Toast Crunch, represent another area that in 2020, after just over a decade on the which mixes RumChata with of emphasis; 2020 brings shelves, the brand has already surpassed 50 that other runaway hit of the RumChata co-packed with million bottles shipped. 2000s, Fireball. 100ml minis of the new Limón and Peppermint NEW KIDS IN TOWN Bark. The Peppermint Bark In a clear sign of the brand’s 750ml will also be available strength, RumChata has been in a seasonal bottling with able to successfully extend its festive graphics. core range by keeping a watchful eye on In addition, the brand has developed consumer trends and market conditions. a diverse and enthusiastic social media In 2016, RumChata introduced MiniChata following, with over 22,000 followers on 25ml cups—the perfect pack for people Instagram. The account features news who were already adding RumChata to about its products, as well as recipes and their coffee. eye-catching videos, including one using Tapping into Americans’ ongoing RumChata in one of the biggest bever- RUMCHATA PEPPERMINT BARK love affair with java, the Wiscon- age trends of 2020, Dal- HOLIDAY MARTINI sin-based producer added a sweet gona whipped coffee. creamy RumChata Cold Brew As long as people keep 2 oz RumChata Peppermint Bark expression. Along with siblings enjoying sweet and 1 oz Vanilla Vodka RumChata Limón and Peppermint creamy drinks, Rum- Bark flavors, also introduced in Chata stands ready to Method: Shake with ice and strain 2020, RumChata has rounded out keep finding new ways into Martini Glass. Garnish by floating into a family of brands. to deliver. n

cracked peppermint stick pieces, and/or COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF RUMCHATA use peppermint candy cane as stir stick. STOCK A HOLIDAY CLASSIC

RumChata®. Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural and Artificial Flavors. 13.75% alc/vol. Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI. Please Enjoy Responsibly. BRAND PROFILE

CORVO REFRESHES

THE VENERABLE BRAND EMBRACES ITS ROOTS, DEFINING SICILIAN WINE FOR AMERICANS

BY AMANDA SCHUSTER

ecades ago, when the American when Giuseppe Alliata—who simultane- sense of wine was literally de- ously held several royal titles including fined by color, Corvo was among Duke of Salaparuta—learned vinification the brands recognized for its techniques in France and began produc- respect for nature. The white is a Grillo Dsimplicity. Corvo Rosso and Bianco were ing wine from his prized Contra Corvo and the red is a light-bodied style of Frap- embraced not just because they were easy vineyards in Casteldacia, outside of Paler- pato—another Sicilian favorite. to order, but also because they fit right in mo. The wines were a success and the Al- “Colomba Platino” translates to “plati- with the Italian fare being served up from liata family kept up the tradition for qual- num dove” (the front labels feature a bro- coast to coast. ity winemaking in Sicily using the Italian cade-like pattern of doves). Here the red Today, of course, rules about which island’s native grape varieties. is a deep, dark Nero d’Avola; the white color goes with what food, are quaint Through the decades, Corvo has always is Insolia, a crisp, Sauvignon Blanc-like clichés as Americans have become much focused on celebrating the terroir of Sici- white—that can easily fly from casual to more savvy about grapes and regions like ly—except nobody called planting the right more upscale occasions. Sicily. There has also been a steady growth grapes in the right places “terroir” back in As a whole, the three labels in the re- of interest in indigenous grapes and wines the day. And the wine’s grapes were not al- born Corvo portfolio are well positioned that reflect a sense of place. ways obvious from their packaging. Now, to showcase the authenticity and sophis- Given the maturing of the U.S. wine in understanding the needs and direction tication of Sicilian wine. “We are excited market, it makes sense that Corvo, a brand of the market, the wines are preparing to to be launching the new Corvo Portfolio at nearly 200 years old, would be prime for a define Sicilian wine for a new generation. a time where there is a new appreciation refresh. In fact, in refocusing on authentic and understanding of Sicilian wines,” says Sicilian varieties, the brand has been able NATIVE VARIETIES MAKING Ray Stoughton, EVP and general manager to expand. The five-varietal core line is A DIFFERENCE of Disaronno International USA. “The re- joined by two other Sicilian projects with Price to retail for around $10, the five vival of the Corvo Classic line and intro- distinct quality offerings and price points. new Corvo wines are proudly labeled with duction of our trade-up brands Irmàna The story of Corvo dates back to 1824, their own unique identities. Grillo and and Colomba Platino will allow us to share Nero d’Avola, the preeminent white and our rich history and offer an authentic ex- The Corvo Irmàna label shares its sash with the Corvo red grapes of Sicily, are joined by crowd- perience to new consumers.” Classic line, but also features playful grape caricatures. pleasing Pinot Grigio, Moscato, and Rosé. For those who are already familiar with These wines—the #1 sellers in the pre- Corvo’s wines, the revival of the brand mium segment in Italy—now have will likely come as a pleasant surprise. screw-caps for even more of a contem- Those less familiar or who are seeking porary aesthetic. to learn more about the wines of Sicily Disaronno International, importer will be presented with a well-priced set and U.S. subsidiary of Illva Saronno of wines that highlight the traditions SpA, is enhancing the Corvo relaunch of Sicilian winemaking and its native with two companion labels to offer varieties and styles. Essentially, the trade-up options for a variety of con- upgraded Corvo portfolio represents sumers: Irmàna and Colomba Platino, wine firmly rooted in Sicilian terroir priced in the teens. The Irmàna bot- with a modern Italian flair; think of it

tlings represent wines made with as history meets the future. n COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF CORVO WINES

BRAND PROFILE

TAKING STOCK FOR SUCCESS

FOR 85 YEARS, HEAVEN HILL DISTILLERY HAS MASTERED THE WHISKEY SUPPLY CHALLENGE

BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

hen you count among your The new Evan Williams packaging fea- The result, says the company, is an extra whiskey brands Evan Wil- tures key enhancements and a consistent layer of sweet oak complexity. liams, the second best-selling look on the shelf for Evan Williams Black, Vast stores of whiskey have also given bourbon in the world; Elijah Evan Williams Bottled-in-Bond, and Evan Heaven Hill the opportunity to support Craig,W one of the fastest growing super- Williams flavors. Black features a signature wheated bourbon Old Fitzgerald with an premium bourbons; iconic Old Fitzgerald; glass defined by a curved bulb neck and a ultrapremium bottled-in-bond series in a and whiskey fan favorites Henry McKenna capsule with Evan Williams’s signature. throwback decanter, currently a 14-year-old and Larceny, keeping up with demand can “Evan Williams is the engine that pulls for the Fall 2020 release. (Bottled-in-bond be a monumental task. the Heaven Hill whiskey train, and we like has long been a Heaven Hill specialty; cur- But it’s a task the Shapira family’s to say the key is that it’s longer and stron- rently of about 40 such whiskies on the mar- Heaven Hill Distillery in Bardstown, Ken- ger,” says O’Driscoll. “Compared to the ket, over a dozen are from Heaven Hill.) Oth- tucky, has been managing for 85 years, competition, it’s aged longer—we don’t er recent examples of premium innovation and now with about 1.9 million barrels of put an age statement on the label but it include building Rittenhouse Rye stocks up whiskey maturing in more than 61 ware- leans toward six years—and it’s bottled at and removing it from allocation; introducing houses in Jefferson and Nelson counties, 86 proof. The third thing that is key to its Larceny Barrel Proof and private barrels; and the company is marking its anniversary growth is that the consumer recognizes it of course the Parker’s Heritage Collection. by focusing on capacity expansion, brand as a well-priced high-quality bourbon.” It’s a difficult time to manage such a evolution, and premium innovation. large operation, given safety issues, but Chief among the current changes is PAST PLANNING PAYS OFF the distillery stayed operational during the redesign of the Evan Williams family of Founded in 1935, Heaven Hill Distillery the pandemic and continues to expand. brands, a line that is now surpassing the 3 is the largest single-site bourbon distill- A renovated Bourbon Heritage Center million case mark on an annual basis. “It’s ery, currently warehousing more than 20 opened this summer and an expansion is an iconic brand central to our identity that percent of the world’s bourbon and home set for next year, replete with experiential we want to keep fresh and looking good,” to more than 100 different whiskey la- You Do Bourbon lab, rooftop bar, and orig- says master distiller Conor O’Driscoll. “Our bels. Building as they do a new warehouse inal Heaven Hill Springs exterior replica. focus is on what’s in the bottle but you don't about every six months to build inventory And judging by recent activity, line exten- want to get lost in the crowd.” not only supports existing brands but also sions, and product innovations, more is provides for innovation, says O’Driscoll. soon to come. n Take, for example, the premium Elijah Craig line’s newest addition, Toasted Bar- rel. The process begins with barrel proof Elijah Craig Small Batch moved to second, custom-toasted barrels designed in part- nership with Independent Stave Company.

Master distiller Conor O’Driscoll (left) is keeping Heaven Hill on a trajectory of growth; right, a new rickhouse,

already being filled with barrels of aging bourbon. COURTESY HILL DISTILLERYPHOTOGRAPHY OF HEAVEN

percent. Athletic Brewing’s nonalcoholic nonalcoholic beer increased by nearly 38 percent, according toNielsen, butsalesof alcohol saleshave grown by more than20 months ofthepandemic,off-premise reaching for anonalcoholicIPA? a pandemic,would consumers really be engulfed by wildfires, racial injustice,and In today’s tensenation,which hasbeen to squelchthezero-proof momentum. to remove thestigmaofremoving alcohol. grocery stores across thecountry, helping were arriving inbars, restaurants, and nonalcoholic beers, spirits,andcocktails BY JOSHUA M.BY BERNSTEIN WERE WRONG THEY SOBER-CURIOUS THE END MOVEMENT. PANDEMICMANY THE ASSUMED WOULD IS THRIVING CATEGORYFREE WHY THEALCOHOL- It turnsoutthey are. Inthefirst six Then COVID-19 hit,which seemedlikely t the start of 2020, the sober- curious movement seemedpoised to bethebeverage world’s biggest story. Refreshingly flavorful afoot aswell, says Julia Bainbridge, drinks isreal, there's acountermovement pandemic trend ofpeoplepouringstiff Elkovich, afounder. a quaran-tini fatigue,” reports Shelley fulfill awaiting listof600people.“There’s Oregon, has quadrupled production to drink alcohol-free cocktailsinPortland, Bitter For Worse, which makes ready-to- 31 percent, according toNielsen. AndFor alcohol-removed wines have increased similar boosts. Sales of the Fre family of proof spiritsandwineshave experienced phase for thealcohol-free category.” pandemic hasbeenanimportantdiscovery pent-up,” founder BillShufeltsays. “The 400 percent monthly. “Demandwas so beers, for example, are growing more than Although themuch-documented The burgeoning new category ofzero Sangria // Miracle Seltzer’s DTC case //MiracleSangria Seltzer’s Marlborough, NewZealand Bitter //For Worse For Blanc Sauvignon 0% from Newly released Giesen Drinking for Whatever Reason Whatever for Drinking Alcohol-Free Recipes for When You’re Not Not You’re When for Recipes Alcohol-Free the immunesystem. and drinking toomuch alcohol canweaken Health istopofmindfor many consumers, POINT ASELLING BECOMES HEALTHWHEN and work-related happy hours. sobriety due to a lack of social encounters has provided anopportunity toexplore she says, butfor many others, quarantine reality ofwhat ishappeningrightnow,” anything tohelp us escape from the have beenunderstandably “lookingfor author ofthejust-published

Good Drinks: Drinks: Good . People

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF GIESEN WINES / JOSH CHANG / MIRACLE SELTZER

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY LRYE'S NON ALCOHOLIC SPIRITS / NACHO ALEGRE COURTESY OF GHIA / SURREAL BREWING / LUCAS BOLS DAMRAK KRISTEN VAN SANTEN PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF GIESEN WINES / JOSH CHANG / MIRACLE SELTZER

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY LRYE'S NON ALCOHOLIC SPIRITS / NACHO ALEGRE COURTESY OF GHIA / SURREAL BREWING / LUCAS BOLS DAMRAK KRISTEN VAN SANTEN been up, up, up,” Wiseman notes.“There’s club have increased 600percent. pandemic started,salesfor thecocktail bottled 12-ounce mixed drinks. Since the offers amonthly subscriptionfor its New York’s Hudson Valley, thecompany Aperol Spritz and Negroni. Based in cocktails inspired by drinks such as the Curious Elixirs, alineofalcohol-free on thetrajectory toward health.” week,” Zein-El-Abedein says. “I’m bullish with 85percent new customers week over driven by new consumers. “We saw ashift and July, Surreal saw adifferent salesspike Dry January resolutions. typically spike in the New Year, buoyed by Bridges, a17-caloriekölsch-style ale, calorie nonalcoholic beers such as Natural in Campbell,California.Salesofhislow- founder ofSurreal Brewing Company, now,” says Tammer Zein-El-Abedein, a “In thenonalcoholicspace,it’s just John Wiseman is the founder of As thepandemicstretched intoJune “There’s a hyperfocus on health right Fre: “Younger consumers appear tobe Trinchero Family Estates,which produces Brie Wohld, vice president, marketing for consumers driving thistrend, observes a beverage or fooditem,” Sladesays. when you cantreat azero-alcohol wineas January. “It opensupawhole new world to anationwide program slatedfor Dry nearly theentire allocation,committing huge demand. Whole Foods Market took retail buyers, they discovered there was began shoppingGiesen0%directly to importer PacificHighway Wines&Spirits. the vice president of communication for is deadinthewater,’” recalls Angela Slade, debut. “Our thoughtwas, ‘Yeah, thisthing the U.S. inApril.COVID-19 delayed the Sauvignon Blanc,thefirst ofitskind,in planned toroll outitsalcohol-removed those ofregular Damrak Ginby year’s end. reports thatsalesnumbers willmatch Virgin 0.0 launchedinAugust andDunne real gin intexture andflavor, Damrak development for years to closely resemble says U.S. managingdirector, Brett Dunne.In Lucas Bolsdeveloped Damrak Virgin 0.0, spirits gainmomentum,Amsterdam’s keep my immunity strong.’” going to drink anything because I want to decided duringquarantine thatI’m not and more peoplewho are like, ‘Ijust company’s reviews, and“there are more are ahuge draw.” Wisemanreads the no slowing down. Health andwellness In the wine category, it’s younger Yet when PacificHighway’s salesteam New Zealand’s GiesenWineshad After years ofwatching itslow-ABV beers. //BELOW:beers. Ghia, abitter nonalcoholic aperitif Brewing makes arangenonalcoholic low-calorie of likerum,traditional bourbon, spirits andgin.//Surreal Lyre’s made inAustralia, Non-Alcoholic Spirits, emulate er modelfor its nonalcoholic beers. “We launched witharobust direct-to-consum opened inStratford, Connecticut,in2018, Zein-El-Abedein. grew almost fivefold,” reports Surreal’s alcohol. “Almost overnight, onlinesales state-by-state regulatory framework for shipped nationwide, not subject to the cocktails benefitfrom theability tobe essential, andnonalcoholicbeers and During thepandemic,ecommerce became OPPORTUNITIES ECOMMERCE SEIZING the pandemichasonly accelerated.” curious movement that emerged prior to less alcohol than millennials; the sober- less alcoholthanGenX,andZdrinks driving this shift as millennials drink Athletic Brewing Company, which - SOBER-CURIOUS on-premise sector. “I noticed there were abstaining diners, initially targeted the year tocreate adynamic seltzer optionfor U.S. director ofsalesfor All-Free. of their homes,” says Takeharu Nakai, the people to try our products in the comforts one-click purchasing. page direct customers toAmazon,enabling Moreover, Suntory’s website andInstagram influencer partnerships to spread the word. made withhopsandbarley, itswitchedto All-Free, azero-calorie beer-like beverage Suntory prepared toroll outthesparkling introduce customers toitsproducts. Butas relied onevents andin-store samplingsto al Japanese brewery and distillery Suntory Shufelt says. on thebrewer tobeactively marketing,” shopping going onatoff-premise, soit’s growth per month.“There’s lessdiscovery the company’s astonishing400percent additional 150,000 barrels toaccommodate to augmentproduction capacity by an in SanDiego inMarch, which allowed it bought a former Ballast Point brewery 15,000-barrel capacity inConnecticutand within 15minutesonline. notes thatlimitedreleases oftensellout years before COVID hit,” says Shufelt,who ating on our ecommerce platform for two feel super-fortunate thatwe’ve beeniter thoughtfully-made cocktails. zero-proof Getaway BarinBrooklyn in2019 to serve opened Miracle Seltzer, which launchedlast “We are tryingtomake iteasier toget Prior tothepandemic,multination The brewery maxedoutits MOVEMENT - - the signature cocktailalongsidehim. join Marshall onFacebookLive tomake and recipes, plusacustomplaylist, then Soda drinkkitswhich includeingredients Beer Where You Are. Peopleorder Dry interactive onlineevent seriescalledSans bubbly” Dry Soda.Now hehascreated an tour, apartnership with“botanical the remaining dates of his nationwide temporarily closed his bar and canceled making themathome. nonalcoholic cocktailsandpeopleare is continueddemandfor bar-quality Although many bars are shuttered, there $15 for an intricate alcohol-free cocktail. idea that people would happily pay $10 to curious movement by normalizingthe Bar, in Austin, Texas, fueled the sober- as Brooklyn’s Getaway Bar andSans Sober-curious bars andpop-ups such PIVOT BAR SOBER-CURIOUS THE with “an ecommerce-first approach.” Wright plans tolaunchallnew products ecommerce model.It’s beensosuccessful, company switchedtoasubscription-based by carbonatedwater). with Yowie, anastral waterpark powered adventure” experiences like Dreamland Wide,” andit's supportedby “mental (Miracle’s logo is:“Open Your Eyes Really without theneedofchemicalinput.” a one-way ticket to a new dimension appealing toconsumers who would take Wright. “We focusonthe‘curious’ part, in thewater space,” says cofounder Jason to reward thesober-curious consumer many alcohol-free beverages, butnothing Sans Bar founder ChrisMarshall At thestartofpandemic, the made with hops andbarley. hops made with beverage beer-like All-Free Suntory’s isazero-calorie indemand. // anexplosion to meet production Oregon, has made inPortland, quadrupled cocktails BitterFor Worse, For alcohol-free lineof aready-to-drink Drinks lockdown hastaken from us.” n chicer evening, which issomething that and afancy booze-free drinkcreates “a reason, makingthesedrinkscanbefun,” who are not consumingalcoholfor any of isolationhas taken hold, says own cocktails or mocktailsathome.” Ghia andinspire peopletocreate their wanted toshare ideasfor how toutilize bartending experience,” Masarinsays. “We “plays animportantpartinthehome- Each order includesarecipe book that instead toadirect-to-consumer model. the pandemichit,company pivoted Ghia, atrestaurants andbars. Butwhen her pleasantly bitter nonalcoholicaperitif, bar,” says Lyre’s founder, Mark Livings. people adjusttothelackoftheir favorite ate quality cocktailsathome.“It’s helped making lessonviaZoom,tohelpthemcre- website receive afree 15-minute cocktail- Customers who purchase bottlesonLyre’s turned themintovirtualmixology trainers. loughing theambassadors, thecompany from rumtobourbongin.Insteadoffur about thecompany’s products, which range cate bartenders andmembers ofthetrade about 20globalbrand ambassadors toedu brand Lyre’s Non-Alcoholic Spiritshired hoping to reopen his bar sometime in 2021. people engaged,” says Marshall, who is Alcohol-free celebration duringatime Mélanie Masarin plannedtolaunch Prior tothepandemic,Australian “The digitalexperience iskeeping author Bainbridge: “For those Good Good - -

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF GETAWAY BAR NYC / MICHELLE PEARL GEE (FOR BITTER FOR WORSE) / BEAM SUNTORY Turning inventory. And heads. That’s Proof.

Proof TM BY SOUTHERN GLAZER’S

Visit about.sgproof.com to find out more A SUCCESSFUL LIQUOR STORE IN FREDERICK? THE BUTLERS DID IT! BY TEDDY DURGIN

iverside Liquors is ALL about family! Co-owner David store. Before, if you were driving down to D.C. five days a week all week long, you Butler says his family's roots in the packaged goods didn't have as much time to stop. But with business date back to 1986 when his father, Albert, all these people telecommuting, they can opened his first liquor store in Frederick. Dubbed pretty much shop whenever they want." R But Butler will never forget those early Willow Tree Liquors, Albert eventually turned over manage- years of struggling to establish Riverside ment of the business to David's older sister, Cheryl Young, to Liquors among the biggest and best return to his previous career in the computer industry. stores in Frederick County. "We worked ungodly hours," he recalled. "My sister David started working at the store portunity knocked once again. And once was starting a family, and she was easily part-time while going to community col- again it was in Frederick. They acquired working 60 hours a week. I didn't have lege and then went to work there with an acre of commercial land between a a family yet, and I was working at least Cheryl full-time at age 20 (with their dad then-proposed Walmart and Giant gro- 70 hours a week. My dad was working still contributing financially). In the early cery store and proceeded to have their full-time at his computer job. He would 1990s, the siblings heard about a new own store built using the proceeds of leave that job around 3 o'clock in the af- shopping center called Spring Ridge Spring Ridge Liquors' sale. ternoon, and he'd work at the store as being built that would be anchored by Twenty years later, Riverside Liquors well! But it was worth it because we finally a Weis supermarket. They eventually is still going strong. Maybe stronger than owned our own space." opened Spring Ridge Liquors at the site ever. "The pandemic has been good for Riverside Liquors stands out be- after selling Willow Tree to fund the move. us," David Butler declared, during a re- cause of its size and selection. It's an But the Weis family owned the shop- cent interview with the Beverage Jour- 8,000-square-foot store, with approxi- ping center, so Cheryl and David had nal. "With so many people working from mately 2,000 square feet of storage on to pay rent. Their dream soon became home and many not working at all has the second level. There's also plenty of owning their own freestanding store. Op- made it easier for people to shop at our parking. And you can't beat that location

50 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com between two heavily trafficked stores. Their father has since retired, but the brother and sister have recently brought onboard another brother -- a retired state po- liceman -- as one-third owner. "I love working with my family," Butler declared. "We're a tight-knit group. I'm lucky in that I get to spend a lot of time with my brother and sister, and I probably wouldn't if we all had different careers." Still challenges remain. Butler can't help feeling a certain un- ease for the future. Other proprietors have the same nerves. "My biggest concern is the lawmakers in the State of Maryland," he said. "I hope they don't change the laws and allow chain stores to come into Maryland. That would adversely affect every family that I'm responsible for now, including seven full-time employees. That's a heavy burden and my biggest worry." Fortunately, Butler, his family, and other Here are store operators statewide have the Mary- Brittany Pirrone, land State Licensed Beverage Association assistant manager; (MSLBA) on their side in Annapolis. He re- early on was that everybody has different marked, "The MSLBA is extremely impor- Kenny White, manager; personalities, everybody is different. It's tant. We're not absentee owners. We're at and David Butler, nice to sell a product to someone one time. the store every day, working to maintain our owner/operator; However, if you are friendly, courteous, and business. If we had to, on our own, try and all with kind and you interact with your customers fight for our fair share with the state govern- and develop relationships with them, then ment, it would be impossible. The MSLBA is Riverside Liquors. you can sell them product for a lifetime. And if our voice when we can't be there." you have customers for a lifetime, then you can And Butler believes Riverside Liquors is well- actually make a living. Treating your customers like positioned for the future as long as forces in the State family is THE way to run a family business!" n Capitol don't interfere. He concluded, "What I learned

AreAre You You a a Member Member of of MSLBA, MSLBA, MarylandAre StateAre You YouLicen a aMember Membersed Beverage of of MSLBA, MSLBA, Association ? MarylandMaryland State State Licen Licen sedsed BeverageBeverage Association Association? ?

MSLBA members Marylandare Maryland beer, State wine Licen& spiritssed retailers Beverage representing Association bars, clubs, restaurants? & MSLBA membersMSLBA membersare Maryland are Maryland beer, beer, wine wine & & spirits spirits retailers representing representing bars, bars,clubs, restaurantsclubs, restaurants & & stores on alcohol beverage issues. They know their best chance for competently and successfully MSLBAstores on membersalcoholstores on beveragealcoholare Maryland beverage issues. beer,issues. They wine They know &know spirits theirtheir retailersbestbest chance chance representing for forcompetently competently bars, and clubs, successfully and restaurants successfully & dealing with dealingexternal with forces external such forces as such legislation, as legislation, regulation, regulation, suppliers, suppliers, enforcement enforcement agencies, agencies, prohibition prohibition dealingstores on with alcohol external beverage forces suchissues. as legislation, They know regulation, their best suppliers, chance forenforcement competently agencies, and successfully prohibition efforts, and unfairefforts, andcompetition, unfair competition, is by joiningis by joining MSLBA MSLBA with with otherother independentindependent retailers retailers for reputable for reputable efforts,dealing withandrepresentation. unfairexternal competition, forces such isas by legislation, joining MSLBA regulation, with suppliers, other independent enforcement retailers agencies, for prohibition reputable representation. representation.efforts, and unfair competition, is by joining MSLBA with other independent retailers for reputable

representation.

Message fromMessage ______from David of ______Butler of Riverside: Liquors:

MessageMessage from from ______of of ______: : “We’re at the store every day, working to maintain our business... Message from ______of ______: The MSLBA is our voice when we can’t be there." MSLBA—Representing Alcohol BeverageMSLBA LicenseesNew Logos 050703.qxd since 1950 5/10/2003 7:50 AM Page 1

MSLBAMSLBA——RepresentingRepresenting Alcohol Alcohol Beverage Beverage Licensees Licensees since since 1950 1950 Contact MSLBA for Membership Information: MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950 Phone: (410) 871-1377 E-Mail: [email protected]

Contact MSLBAVisit usfor on theMembership web at www.mslba.org Information: Contact MSLBA for Membership Information: Phone:Contact (410) MSLBA 871-1377 forE-Mail: Membership [email protected] Information: Phone: (410) 871-1377 E-Mail: [email protected] Phone: (410)Visit 871 us- 1377on the E web-Mail: at www.mslba.org [email protected] Visit us on the web at www.mslba.org Visit us on the web at www.mslba.org BRAND PROFILE

THE JOURNEY OF SOUTH AFRICA'S MOST FAMOUS SOMMELIER HOW TINASHE NYAMUDOKA IS CREATING A NEW MODEL FOR A BLACK- OWNED WINE BRAND IN A COUNTRY FRAUGHT WITH INEQUALITY

BY KRISTEN BIELER

here is no direct English translation “For Black Africans, wine is not historically part of our for the word “kumusha.” In Shona, culture,” he says. “I wanted to create a wine to help change that.” Zimbabwe’s primary language, it means T “your home, your origin, your roots.” An Unlikely Journey to Wine The term conjures the “feeling of belonging” Raised in Zimbabwe, Nyamudoka had worked his way up to junior manager at a grocery store when his country fell into a crippling rather than a physical place, explains Tinashe economic crisis. Like many other Zimbabweans (“Zims,” as they Nyamudoka, which is exactly why he christened his call themselves), he left for South Africa in 2008 to seek work, and brand Kumusha Wines. “I want to embrace wine he eventually found a job polishing cutlery at the Roundhouse in my own space, within my own culture,” says Restaurant in Cape Town. Nyamudoka, the Zimbabwean native who, in the While he worked at the restaurant, Nyamudoka began to learn space of a decade, has become one of the most words like “foie gras” and “Merlot” and was soon promoted to waiter. acclaimed sommeliers in South Africa. “I had never drank wine. There was no wine tradition in my house PHOTOGRAPH BY GAVIN WHITHERS GAVIN BY PHOTOGRAPH

52 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com BUSINESS SALES & ACQUISITIONS

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“For Black Africans, wine is not historically part of our culture. I wanted to create a wine to help change that."

growing up,” Nyamudoka says, but as he began to taste wine with the restaurant’s beverage director, he was intrigued. Nyamudoka’s curiosity paid off, and he Creating Taste Memory out of 24 competitors, beating Spain, Italy, landed a job as wine steward at Nobu at the Nyamudoka is one of many Zim somms England, and the U.S., teams with far more One&Only resort when it opened in 2009 who have emerged as rising stars on the formal wine education and experience. (A with a 6,000-bottle cellar. “My journey as a South African dining scene in the past de- documentary about their journey, Blind somm began there,” he says. cade. Yet in spite of their growing acclaim, Ambition, will be released soon.) After winning the Reaching for Young many feel as though they’re outsiders, Stars Best Wine Steward Award in 2013 and Nyamudoka reports. A Wine that Feels Like Home working at The Oyster Box hotel in Durban “We had no ‘taste memory,’” he says, At the top of his game as a buyer and a tast- for 18 months, Nyamudoka became head something he realized after reading er, Nyamudoka set his sights on launching sommelier at The Test Kitchen, widely Jonathan Nossiter’s wine memoir, Liquid a brand of his own—one that could provide acknowledged as the best restaurant on Memory. “We had never tasted cranberry, a model for other Black wine entrepreneurs the African continent. black currant, quince, or paprika, so we to follow. “There are lots of initiatives on “That first year, it was pure survival,” had no idea what the wine establishment wine farms to create Black-owned wine he recalls. “I was one of the only Black was describing.” labels that are Fair Trade-certified,” he people on staff, and many of my fellow Nyamudoka and his friends started an explains. “But how can we empower Black managers resented me and made life informal group to create their own associ- brand owners if they don’t understand very difficult.” Redemption arrived when ations for wine in connection to the foods, branding, selling, distribution, and export? his wine program won the Eat Out Wine herbs, and spices they’d grown up with. “It I want to create the blueprint.” Service Award in 2016. became ‘if you smell this, it’s Shiraz,’ then Nyamudoka reached out to one of his we would write the English words we were favorite winemakers—and good friend— supposed to say. It became fun.” Attie Louw of Opstal Estate in the Slang- With three other Zim somms, Joseph hoek Valley for help, and his blending T. Dhafana, Marlvin Gwese, and Pardon education began. “I don’t pretend to be a Taguzu, Nyamudoka formed Team Zim to winemaker, but I do bring a lot of expe- compete in the World Blind Wine Tasting rience from hospitality, gastronomy, and Championships in 2017 and 2018 in France. being a sommelier,” he says. “At The Test “It was our first time to Europe, our first Kitchen, I watched the chef take three time out of Africa,” he recalls. In 2018, days to make a single ingredient, and the Team Zim came in a respectable 14th place way he built a dish is the same way I approach creating my blends: This block brings acidity, this brings crunchiness, ABOVE: Nyamudoka sources grapes for his top-tier this brings fruit.” Chenin Blanc hails from a single vineyard on the Opstal Estate in the Slanghoek Valley // LEFT: Kumusha's label Featuring elements of Zimbabwe and

incorporates elements of South Africa and Zimbabwe South Africa on its labels, Kumusha Wines COURTESY WINESPHOTOGRAPHS OF KUMUSHA

54 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

BRAND PROFILE

launched with the 2017 vintage: just 1,200 cases combined of a Chenin-Semillon blend (inspired by Chris Alheit’s Cartology) and a Cabernet-Cinsault. They sold out in three months. “People were shocked to find a wine with Shona on the label; people were really feeling it,” Nyamudoka reports, particularly in Zimbabwe, which Tinashe Nyamudoka and Attie Louw of Opstal Estate has become Kumusha’s top export market. He’s since added a Roussanne-Chenin Blanc-based blend (The Flame Lily) and a tier of accessibly priced varietal wines “Tinashe is not a poster boy for a corporate company sourced from different regions throughout trying their hand at a Black-empowerment venture. the Cape Winelands. Kumusha is succeeding because it’s a great brand, Inspired by the young generation of winemakers ushering in a new era for not just a great Black-owned brand.” South African wine—“young guns like – Attie Louw, Opstal Estate Chris Alheit, Eben Sadie, and Chris Mull- ineux coming in with no generational ties to land,” he describes—Nyamudoka favors natural fermentations, large foudres, and minimal intervention in the winery. “The brands, many are built with the worker- Since leaving The Test Kitchen in Feb- Swaartland guys moved the spotlight owned Equity Sharing Scheme (ESS) model, ruary and relocating to Johannesburg, away from the old Stellenbosch guys who where workers own all or a significant Nyamudoka has concentrated on devel- went for power and force; they are mak- portion of a brand and its capital, Clarke oping Kumusha’s export markets around ing wines that aren’t trying to be foreign says. “Many efforts have focused on the world, as well as building wine culture but that are representative of South Africa land ownership, yet farming is the least throughout Africa. “We need to encourage and our unique terroirs.” profitable part of the industry and one that the Black middle class to embrace wine “Tinashe’s blending and assembling calls for substantial capital investment.” drinking at home, so it can become part skills are based heavily on his instinct and Clarke believes that Kumusha—an of our culture,” he says. With fellow Team individual experience around wine,” says example of entrepreneurship ownership— Zim somms, he founded Black Cellar Club Opstal’s Louw. “His experience working is more likely to succeed in the fine wine (BLACC), an association of wine profes- as a somm and wine judge has given world because of Nyamudoka’s skill set and sionals dedicated to promoting education him the ability to recognize quality and hard-earned wine credentials. “Tinashe's and opportunities for Black wine industry understand what the customer wants and project is an example of how vital passion is members in South Africa and other Af- can relate to. Both of us value drinkability to the success of any wine venture,” he says. rican nations, including Kenya, Nigeria, and are seeking wines that have tension In the past, many efforts to bring true Tanzania, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. and focus and showcase terroir. That is inclusion and diversity have failed, says There is strong interest in Kumusha the Kumusha philosophy.” Louw, because the industry rushed to from several export markets, particularly “push someone through the system rather the U.S., where the brand will launch in Oc- Broadening Wine Culture than breeding quality and celebrating tober 2020. Giles Thomas, president of Bao- with a New Model that. Tinashe is not a poster boy for a bob Wines, Kumusha’s U.S. importer, reports Since the end of apartheid, South Africa’s corporate company trying their hand at that demand from wholesalers currently wine industry has worked to bring more a Black-empowerment venture,” but an outpaces supply. For Nyamudoka, the work Black people into its fold, but many barriers experienced wine professional who spent is just beginning: “I know enough about this have hampered real progress. Roadblocks five years developing his own wine brand. industry to understand that we also need include the inertia of the status quo, says “Kumusha is succeeding because it’s a Black ownership in production, distribution, Jim Clarke, author of Wines of South Africa. great brand, not just a great Black-owned retail, and marketing. Kumusha is my vehi- Of the growing number of Black-owned brand,” he adds. cle to push through this agenda.” ■ PHOTOGRAPH COURTESYPHOTOGRAPH OF OPSTAL

56 BEVERAGE JOURNAL November 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com