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Tbilsi’s Old Town has many restaurants to enjoy slow, long meals

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A walk through the capital of will help unearth secrets from the Soviet era

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ways. The result is a city and its people that are a delight to experience and interact with. Sun_Shine / Shutter s Noon: Go on a walking tour The best way to get your bearings in a new city is to bilisi, the capital of Georgia and possibly walk down its broad roads and narrow streets, spot the poster city of the Caucasus, is popular landmarks and discover hidden corners. attracting more visitors every year. Better still, book yourself a walking tour and let 36 Hours in Close to three decades after the country experts guide you. Choose from exploring street art seceded from the Soviet Union in 1991, to unearthing secrets from the Soviet era. Meander Time is no constraint in experiencing a slice of life—past and present —of this Eurasian city Tthe old and new stand shoulder-to-shoulder in through a vibrant market or go on a pub crawl. The Tbilisi, with one not overshadowing the other options are endless and varied to different tastes. By Chaitali Patel but complementing it in unusual and interesting Local guides will regale you with many stories,

forbes india • november 22, 2019 november 22, 2019 • forbes india ForbesLife travel

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centre. Exit the park and take the aerial tramway up of the highlights is a 1.8-million-year-old hominid Gior Classic to the Narikala Fortress in time to watch the sunset. skull found in Southern Georgia. The findings represent the oldest evidence of human beings Dumas and Alexander Pushkin, locals continue is being A former 84 8 pm: End your day with dinner under the stars outside of Africa and are significantly altering our to flock to the bath houses to relax and catch up. 85 reinvented sewing including how Christianity came to Georgia using local Georgian cuisine is having its moment in the understanding of human evolution and history. factory, Choose between a public or private bath, with and why the tamada or toastmaster is the most produce sun, as chefs reinvent classics using local The building also houses the Museum of Soviet the Fabrika or without a massage. For a complete traditional today hosts important part of a local feast. Follow your nose produce from across the country. Sample a wide Occupation and the exhibits offers a detailed cafes, art experience, opt for a kisa and get a vigorous and your guide down into the basement of a 15th- The ancient array of Georgian dishes—grilled meats, hearty insight into life in the country under Soviet rule. studios, scrub down followed by a foamy soap bath. fortress of shops and a century bakery and try some freshly baked shoti or Narikala stews, fresh salads, cheese stuffed breads and co-working Georgian bread. Baked in a wood fired oven similar overlooks dumplings—at one of the many restaurants and 1 pm: Go souvenir hunting space 7 pm: Load up on Georgian classics the city and to a tandoor, throng their neighbourhood the Mtkvari cafes in the art nouveau Sololaki neighbourhood. Dry Bridge Market, as the name suggests, is A hidden gem, Salobie Bia serves some of the bakeries all day long for fresh, hot bread. river With tables tucked into quiet corners of a located on a dry river bed and is the perfect place finest Georgian food in an unassuming, cheerful Even if those feet ache, don’t stop just yet. sprawling garden of the Georgian Writers’ Union to find souvenirs. There’s a wide variety on offer setting. Handwritten menus, simple wooden Walk further to discover a waterfall right building is Cafe Littera, centred around an from paintings, handicrafts and carpets to Soviet furniture and local art take centre stage in this in the middle of the city that’s well shielded enormous pine tree. Chef Tekuna Gachechiladze’s memorabilia, the latter being the biggest draw. After restaurant run by a husband and wife duo. from the tourist eye, tucked behind the brick twist on traditional Georgian fare compliments the the fall of the Soviet Union, such markets popped The menu, while limited, features many domes of the bath houses of Abanotubani. unusual setting of the restaurant. A big draw is her up around the country, giving the locals a chance to Georgian classics including local beer, wine chakapuli, a sour plum and tarragon flavoured stew. make additional income by selling their possessions. and in-house brewed chacha, a local pomace 5 pm: Relax at Rike Park Slow, long meals are the norm in Georgia, and Rare coins, used metal bottles, lunchboxes, vintage brandy. A must try is their lobio or kidney bean Take a cue from the locals and make your way to Cafe Littera despite its popularity is in no hurry maps, radios, medals and even gas masks are up stew served in a ceramic pot with a side of Rike Park to relax in the evening. From the Old to have a high turnover of its tables. And although for sale. Go with time on your hands, as well as pickled vegetables and mchadi or corn bread. Town, walk across the Peace Bridge to the park the menu frequently changes, featuring a variety cash since credit cards are not accepted. Most of located on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. The of seasonal produce, what remains constant the vendors are very friendly and let you browse 9 pm: Grab a drink in the coolest place in town bow shaped glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge is a wide selection of good . through their wares even if you aren’t looking to buy. A former sewing factory, Fabrika is today one of designed by Italian architect Michele Di Lucchi the city’s trendiest venues. Cafes, bars, a massive is a popular spot for taking photographs. Day 2 4 pm: Unwind in true Tbilisi style hostel, art studios, shops and a co-working space In the park below, families with children flock to 10 am: Get a crash course on Georgian history Soak in another Tbilisi tradition, and a vital all rolled into one, there’s literally never a dull the gardens and open play areas, while couples seek Delve into Georgia’s layered past with a visit to the part of the city’s history, as you book yourself moment there. The open courtyard lit with strings quiet corners and the elderly take to the benches. Georgian National Museum located on Rustaveli a bath in one of the many bath houses in the of bulbs and rows of buntings is the best place to Amble down the well-tended pathways to another Avenue. Walk through the displays of exquisite gold, Abanotubani district. The city derives its name meet locals and visitors from all walks of life. Their of Tbilisi’s avant-garde additions: The twin tubular silver and precious stone jewellery recovered from from the natural hot sulphur springs that are calendar features regular workshops, exhibitions, buildings that house a concert hall and exhibition burials dating back to the 3rd millennium BC. One found there. Popular with the likes of Alexandre music events and other social events.

forbes india • november 22, 2019 november 22, 2019 • forbes india